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106-552: Helena Rubinstein (born Chaja Rubinstein ; December 25, 1872 – April 1, 1965) was a Polish and American businesswoman, art collector, and philanthropist. A cosmetics entrepreneur, she was the founder and eponym of Helena Rubinstein Incorporated cosmetics company, which made her one of the world's richest women. Rubinstein was the eldest of eight daughters born to Polish Jews , "Augusta" Gitte (Gitel) Shaindel Rubinstein née Silberfeld and Naftoli Hertz "Horace" Rubinstein. Her father

212-744: A pulmonary abscess in 1922. He was buried in the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris. Proust is known to have been homosexual ; his sexuality and relationships with men are often discussed by his biographers. Although his housekeeper, Céleste Albaret , denies this aspect of Proust's sexuality in her memoirs, her denial runs contrary to the statements of many of Proust's friends and contemporaries, including his fellow writer André Gide as well as his valet Ernest A. Forssgren. Proust never openly disclosed his homosexuality, though his family and close friends either knew or suspected it. In 1897, he fought

318-476: A social climber whose aspirations as a writer were hampered by his lack of self-discipline. His reputation from this period, as a snob and an amateur, contributed to his later troubles with getting Swann's Way , the first part of his large-scale novel, published in 1913. At this time, he attended the salons of Mme Straus , widow of Georges Bizet and mother of Proust's childhood friend Jacques Bizet, of Madeleine Lemaire and of Mme Arman de Caillavet , one of

424-493: A Catholic, but he never formally practised that faith. He later became an atheist and was something of a mystic . By the age of nine, Proust had had his first serious asthma attack, and thereafter he was considered a sickly child. Proust spent long holidays in the village of Illiers . This village, combined with recollections of his great-uncle's house in Auteuil, became the model for the fictional town of Combray, where some of

530-646: A Helena Rubinstein Scholarship was awarded to Frank Hodgkinson in 1958 and Charles Blackman 1960. The Helena Rubinstein Portrait Prize was an annual prize of £300 for portraiture by an Australian artist, and was mostly staged at the Claude Hotchin Gallery in Western Australia. Based on Woodhead's book, the 2016 musical War Paint dramatizes her rivalry with competitor Elizabeth Arden . After

636-404: A bit of blah-blah'— and introduced the concept of 'problem' skin types. She also pioneered the use of pseudo-science in marketing, donning a lab coat in many advertisements, despite the fact that her only training had been a two-month tour of European skin-care facilities. She knew how to manipulate consumers' status anxiety, as well: If a product faltered initially, she would hike the price to raise

742-455: A book its size. That year Proust also began working on a novel, which was eventually published in 1952 and titled Jean Santeuil by his posthumous editors. Many of the themes later developed in In Search of Lost Time find their first articulation in this unfinished work, including the enigma of memory and the necessity of reflection; several sections of In Search of Lost Time can be read in

848-469: A cosmetics salon in 1915, the forerunner of a chain throughout the country. Rubinstein opened up the boundless American market, and she skilfully used it, despite serious competitors. This was the beginning of her vicious rivalry with another notable woman of the cosmetics industry, Elizabeth Arden . Both Rubinstein and Arden, who died within 18 months of each other, were social climbers. They were both keenly aware of effective marketing and luxurious packaging,

954-399: A duel with writer Jean Lorrain , who publicly questioned the nature of Proust's relationship with his Proust's lover Lucien Daudet ; both duellists survived. Despite Proust's public denials, his romantic relationship with composer Reynaldo Hahn and his infatuation with his chauffeur and secretary, Alfred Agostinelli, are well documented. On the night of 11 January 1918, Proust was one of

1060-470: A greater threat to society than the Church. He was equally critical of the right, lambasting "the insanity of the conservatives," whom he deemed "as dumb and ungrateful as under Charles X ," and referring to Pope Pius X 's obstinacy as foolish. Proust always rejected the bigoted and illiberal views harbored by many priests at the time, but believed that the most enlightened clerics could be just as progressive as

1166-453: A guest what the ambassador had said. "He said, 'Your ancestors burned Joan of Arc . ' " Rubinstein replied, "Well, someone had to do it." At another fête , Marcel Proust asked her what makeup a duchess might wear. She summarily dismissed him because "he smelt of mothballs". Rubinstein recollected later, "How was I to know he was going to be famous?" At the outbreak of World War I , she and Titus moved to New York City, where she opened

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1272-574: A hot topic in medical spaces such as dermatology, due to the increase of young girls using anti-aging cream, despite only being around 11 years old. In the United States, "Under the law, cosmetic products and ingredients do not need FDA premarket approval." The EU and other regulatory agencies around the world have more stringent regulations. The FDA does not have to approve or review cosmetics, or what goes in them, before they are sold to consumers. The FDA only regulates some colors that can be used in

1378-399: A member of the untitled noble Tchkonia family of Guria , enticing the ambitious young man to appropriate the genuine title of his grandmother, born Princess Gourielli . Gourielli-Tchkonia was 23 years younger than Rubinstein. Eager for a regal title, Rubinstein pursued the handsome man avidly and named a male cosmetics line after her youthful prized catch. Some have claimed that the marriage

1484-432: A novel on which he worked continually during this period. The rough outline of the work centred on a first-person narrator , unable to sleep, who during the night remembers waiting as a child for his mother to come to him in the morning. The novel was to have ended with a critical examination of Sainte-Beuve and a refutation of his theory that biography was the most important tool for understanding an artist's work. Present in

1590-656: A person's face. In some cases, more extreme forms of makeup are used for performances, fashion shows , and people in costume and can change the appearance of the face entirely to resemble a different person, creature, or object. Techniques for changing appearance include contouring , which aims to give shape to an area of the face. Cosmetics can also be designed to add fragrance to the body. Products used for haircare , such as permanent waves, hair colors , and hairsprays , are classified as cosmetic products as well. Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years, with ancient Egyptians and Sumerians using them. In Europe,

1696-454: A regular society column in the journal Le Mensuel . In 1892, he was involved in founding a literary review called Le Banquet (also the French title of Plato 's Symposium ), and throughout the next several years Proust published small pieces regularly in this journal and in the prestigious La Revue Blanche . In 1896 Les plaisirs et les jours , a compendium of many of these early pieces,

1802-493: A result, many celebrities and influencers actively promote skincare routines or collaborate with beauty brands, making skincare and makeup more aspirational Alpha is also inspired by the "clean beauty" movement and inclusive beauty brands that champion self-expression, allowing them to feel more confident in exploring skincare and makeup." In 2023 and 2024, many people posting on social media have reported seeing girls, ranging from 10 to 12 in age in popular cosmetic stores, such as

1908-644: A run Chicago's Goodman Theatre , the show opened on Broadway at the Nederlander Theatre on April 6, 2017, starring Patti LuPone as Rubinstein and Christine Ebersole as Arden. The comedy Lip Service by the Australian dramatist John Misto chronicles the life and career of Rubinstein and her rivalry with Elizabeth Arden and Revlon . Lip Service premiered April 26, 2017, at the Park Theatre in London, under

2014-541: A salon in 1912. Her husband helped with writing the publicity and set up a small publishing house, published Lady Chatterley's Lover and hired Samuel Putnam to translate famous model Alice Prin 's (Kiki de Montparnasse) memoirs, Kiki's Memoirs . Rubinstein threw lavish dinner parties and became known for apocryphal quips, such as when an intoxicated French ambassador expressed vitriol toward Edith Sitwell and her brother Sacheverell : Vos ancêtres ont brûlé Jeanne d'Arc! Rubinstein, who knew little French, asked

2120-610: A study concluding that makeup makes women seem more competent. Due to the source of funding, the quality of this Boston University study is questioned. Cosmetics products may be retailed in beauty stores , department stores and hypermarkets , drugstores , variety stores , grocery stores , beauty supply stores, and many other formats, and in similar types of online stores or the online presence of these types of physical stores. Cosmetic companies have changed their traditional methods of marketing by using social media influencers and brand ambassadors to market their products. During

2226-584: A variety of petrochemically derived agents. Inorganic compounds are processed minerals such as iron oxides , talc , and zinc oxide . The oxides of zinc and iron are classified as pigments , i.e., colorants that have no solubility in solvents. Cosmetic companies have become more transparent in the ingredients of their products because consumers are interested in the formula of their products. Handmade and certified organic products are becoming more mainstream due to consumer concerns that certain chemicals in some skincare products may be harmful if absorbed through

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2332-421: A wide range of cosmetics, including such products as lipstick , eye liner , mascara , foundation , concealer , lip balm , blush , nail polish . A 2021 study tested 231 personal care products and found organic fluorine, a hallmark of PFAS, in more than half of the samples. Substantial levels of fluorine were identified in tested brands of products as follows: 82% of the brands of waterproof mascara, 63% of

2438-538: Is a standard step in skin care routines. Skin cleansing includes some or all of these steps or cosmetics: Hair care is a category of cosmetics devoted to products which are used to improve the appearance of hair. Perfumes or fragrances, are liquids that can be sprayed or applied to produce a long-lasting smell. They are created by mixing different compounds together. There are different groups of perfumes which are categorised according to their concentration. The difference between Eau de parfum and Eau de toilette

2544-554: Is a topic of debate. However, In Search of Lost Time discusses homosexuality at length and features several principal characters, both men and women, who are either homosexual or bisexual : the Baron de Charlus, Robert de Saint-Loup, Odette de Crécy, and Albertine Simonet. Homosexuality also appears as a theme in Les plaisirs et les jours and his unfinished novel, Jean Santeuil . Proust inherited much of his mother's political outlook, which

2650-523: Is also an important player in the European cosmetic market. Although not as large as in other European countries , the cosmetic industry in Italy was estimated to reach €9 billion in 2007. The Italian cosmetic industry is dominated by hair and body products and not makeup as in many other European countries. In Italy, hair and body products make up approximately 30% of the cosmetic market. Makeup and facial care are

2756-651: Is dangerous to human health, especially when inhaled. In 2011, the US National Toxicology Program described formaldehyde as " known to be a human carcinogen ". The danger of formaldehyde is a major reason for the development of formaldehyde releasers which release formaldehyde slowly at lower levels. Marcel Proust Valentin Louis Georges Eugène Marcel Proust ( / p r uː s t / PROOST ; French: [maʁsɛl pʁust] ; 10 July 1871 – 18 November 1922)

2862-463: Is known as "K-beauty," and it has been popularized by K-pop idols, actors, and social media influencers. Many of these idols have become beauty icons and have allowed many men to access beauty products and to feel comfortable using them. While there may still be some societal pressure to conform to traditional gender norms, there is also a growing acceptance of individual expression and breaking free from traditional gender roles. "The Sephora Kids are

2968-454: Is more about the perfume oil concentration. Eau de parfum has a higher concentration of perfume than Eau de toilette . Various tools are used to apply cosmetics. In addition to brushes, a makeup sponge is a popular applicator. Makeup sponges can be used to apply foundation, blend concealer, and apply powder or highlighter. Loofahs , microfiber cloths, natural sponges, or brushes may be used to exfoliate skin simply by rubbing them over

3074-600: The International Organization for Standardization and regulated by national or regional regulations such as those issued by the EU or the FDA . Marketers and manufacturers of cosmetic products must be compliant to these regulations to be able to market their cosmetic products in the corresponding areas of jurisdiction . The manufacture of cosmetics is dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in

3180-571: The 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics increased rapidly. Cosmetics are used by girls at increasingly young ages, especially in the United States. Because of the fast-decreasing age of makeup users, many companies, from drugstore brands like Rimmel to higher-end products like Estee Lauder, cater to this expanding market by introducing flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery and sparkly packaging, and marketing and advertising using young models . The social consequences of younger and younger cosmetics use have had much attention in

3286-482: The 21st century. The wider acceptance of the use of cosmetics led some to see makeup as a tool used in the oppression and subjection of women to unfair societal standards. In 1968, at the feminist Miss America protest , protesters symbolically threw a number of feminine products into a "Freedom Trash Can", with cosmetics among the items the protesters called "instruments of female torture" and accoutrements of what they perceived to be enforced femininity . As of 2016 ,

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3392-548: The English language. Her stylish clothes and milky complexion did not pass unnoticed among the town's ladies, however, and she soon found enthusiastic buyers for the jars of beauty cream in her luggage. She spotted a market where she began to make her own. A key ingredient of the cream, lanolin , was readily at hand. Coleraine , in the Western Victoria region , where her uncle was a shopkeeper, might have been an "awful place" but

3498-541: The French federation for the perfume industry). France is another country in which the cosmetic industry plays an important role, both nationally and internationally. According to data from 2008, the cosmetic industry has grown constantly in France for 40 consecutive years. In 2006, this industrial sector reached a record level of €6.5 billion. Famous cosmetic brands produced in France include Vichy, Yves Saint Laurent , Yves Rocher , and many others. The Italian cosmetic industry

3604-590: The German cosmetic industry the third largest in the world, after Japan and the United States. German exports of cosmetics reached €5.8 billion in 2008, whereas imports of cosmetics totaled €3 billion. The worldwide cosmetics and perfume industry currently generates an estimated annual turnover of US$ 170 billion (according to Eurostaf, May 2007). Europe is the leading market, representing approximately €63 billion, while sales in France reached €6.5 billion in 2006, according to FIPAR (Fédération des Industries de la Parfumerie –

3710-872: The Helena Rubinstein Foundation, now in the National Portrait Gallery of Australia , Marie Laurencin in 1934 (now in the National Portrait Gallery (United States) , Raoul Dufy (1930), Roberto Montenegro (1941). After Rubinstein's last visit to Australia, William Dobell painted a series of eight portraits in 1957. After her divorce, in 1938 Helena readily married Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (sometimes spelled Courielli-Tchkonia; born in Georgia , February 18, 1895, died in New York City, November 21, 1955), whose somewhat clouded matrilinear claim to Georgian nobility stemmed from him having been born

3816-628: The Melbourne shop's operation, and with $ 100,000, Rubinstein moved to London and began what was to become an international enterprise. (Women at this time could not obtain bank loans, so the money was her own.) In 1908, she married the Polish-born American journalist Edward William Titus in London. They had two sons, Roy Valentine Titus (London, December 12, 1909 – New York, June 18, 1989) and Horace Titus (London, April 23, 1912 – New York, May 18, 1958). They eventually moved to Paris where she opened

3922-700: The US but are sold in international markets. The L'Oréal-UNESCO Awards for Women in Science are also known as the Helena Rubinstein Women in Science Awards. The Helena Rubinstein Foundation, which had been established in 1953, operated through 2011, ultimately distributing nearly $ 130 million over the course of six decades, primarily to education, arts, and community-based organizations in New York City. The foundation

4028-413: The US was developed by figures such as Elizabeth Arden , Helena Rubinstein , and Max Factor . These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after. By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in widespread use by women in nearly all industrial societies around the world, with the cosmetics industry becoming a multibillion-dollar enterprise by the beginning of

4134-437: The United States has weakened over the years, with the number of men using makeup increasing in the 21st century. Cosmetics brands have increasingly targeted men in the sale of cosmetics, with some products targeted specifically at men . Lead has been used as a makeup product since the 18th century. It is said to be lethal to women who apply it daily to achieve a pale complexion representing nobility, as tanner skin represents

4240-599: The Winter Garden tearooms in Melbourne . There, she found an admirer willing to stump up the funds to launch her Crème Valaze, supposedly including herbs imported "from the Carpathian Mountains ". It cost ten pence and sold for six shillings (72 pence). Known to her customers only as Helena, Rubinstein could soon afford to open a salon in fashionable Collins Street , selling glamour as a science to customers whose skin

4346-516: The absence of regulation of the manufacture and use of cosmetics, as well as the absence of scientific knowledge regarding the effects of various compounds on the human body for much of this time period, led to a number of negative effects upon those who used cosmetics, including deformities , blindness, and, in some cases, death. Although harmless products were used, such as berries, and beetroot , many cosmetic products available at this time were still chemically dubious and even poisonous. Examples of

Helena Rubinstein - Misplaced Pages Continue

4452-500: The appearance and "care" cosmetics designed for skincare and personal care. Most cosmetics are also distinguished by the area of the body intended for application, with cosmetics designed to be used on the face and eye area usually applied with a brush, a makeup sponge, or the fingertips. Cosmetics can also be described by the physical composition of the product. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions , powders (pressed or loose), dispersions, or anhydrous creams or sticks. Cleansing

4558-434: The attraction of beauticians in neat uniforms, the value of celebrity endorsements, the perceived value of overpricing and the promotion of the pseudoscience of skincare. The rivalry with Arden lasted all her life. Rubinstein said of her rival, "With her packaging and my product, we could have ruled the world." From 1917, Rubinstein took on the manufacturing and wholesale distribution of her products. The "Day of Beauty" in

4664-425: The body (on the skin, particularly the hands and nails), and to the hair. These products may be intended for use as skincare, personal care, or to alter the appearance, with the subset of cosmetics known as makeup primarily referring to products containing colour pigments intended for the purpose of altering the wearer's appearance; some manufacturers will distinguish only between "decorative" cosmetics intended to alter

4770-463: The brands of foundations, and 62% of liquid lipstick. PFAS compounds are readily absorbed through human skin and through tear ducts , and such products on lips are often unwittingly ingested. Manufacturers often fail to label their products as containing PFAS, which makes it difficult for cosmetics consumers to avoid products containing PFAS. Formaldehyde is no longer used in cosmetics but has been replaced by formaldehyde releasers . Formaldehyde

4876-553: The company to $ 100 million, establishing salons and outlets in almost a dozen US cities. This saga, and Rubinstein's early business career, has been the subject of a recent Harvard Business School case. Her subsequent spa at 715 Fifth Avenue included a restaurant, a gymnasium and rugs by painter Joan Miró . She commissioned artist Salvador Dalí to design a powder compact as well a portrait of herself in 1943, titled Princess Arthchild Gourielle-Helena Rubinstein . Other artists who painted her portrait were Graham Sutherland in 1957 for

4982-675: The company with her relatives. Rubinstein died April 1, 1965, of natural causes and was buried in Mount Olivet Cemetery in Queens . Some of her estate, including African and fine art, Lucite furniture, and Victorian furniture upholstered in purple, was auctioned in 1966 at the Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York City. One of Rubinstein's numerous sayings was: "There are no ugly women, only lazy ones." A scholarly study of her exclusive beauty salons and how they blurred and influenced

5088-494: The conceptual boundaries at the time among fashion, art galleries, the domestic interior and versions of modernism is explored by Marie J. Clifford. A feature-length documentary film , The Powder & the Glory (2009) by Ann Carol Grossman and Arnie Reisman, details the rivalry between Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden . In her book Ugly Beauty , Ruth Brandon described her methodology: She knew how to advertise—using 'fear copy with

5194-585: The consolidation of the Republic. Much of In Search of Lost Time concerns the vast changes, most particularly the decline of the aristocracy and the rise of the middle classes, that occurred in France during the fin de siècle . Proust's father, Adrien Proust , was a prominent French pathologist and epidemiologist , studying cholera in Europe and Asia. He wrote numerous articles and books on medicine and hygiene. Proust's mother, Jeanne Clémence (maiden name: Weil),

5300-483: The cosmetic industry came up with perfumes bearing their names. Moreover, some actors and singers (such as Celine Dion ) have their own perfume line. Designer perfumes are, like any other designer products, the most expensive in the industry as the consumer pays for the product and the brand. Famous Italian fragrances are produced by Giorgio Armani , Dolce & Gabbana , and others. Procter & Gamble , which sells CoverGirl and Dolce & Gabbana makeup, funded

5406-432: The cosmetic product. Secondary packaging is the outer wrapping of one or several cosmetic container(s). An important difference between primary and secondary packaging is that any information that is necessary to clarify the safety of the product must appear on the primary package. Otherwise, much of the required information can appear on just the secondary packaging. Cosmetic packaging is standardized by ISO 22715 , set by

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5512-593: The cosmetics and hair dyes. The cosmetic companies do not have to report any injuries from the products; they also only have voluntary recalls of products. There has been a marketing trend towards the sale of cosmetics lacking controversial ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum , sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and parabens . Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are a class of about 9,000 synthetic organofluorine compounds that have multiple highly toxic fluorine atoms attached to an alkyl chain . PFAS are used by major cosmetics industry companies in

5618-449: The early 20th century, but the distribution and sales of cosmetics are spread among a wide range of businesses. The world's largest cosmetic companies are L'Oréal , Procter & Gamble , Unilever , Shiseido , and Estée Lauder . In 2005, the market volume of the cosmetics industry in the US, Europe, and Japan was about EUR 70 Billion/a year. In Germany, the cosmetic industry generated €12.6 billion of retail sales in 2008, which makes

5724-465: The eyes, weakened tooth enamel, and blackened skin, with heavy use known to lead to death. Usage of white lead was not confined only to the West, with the white Japanese face makeup known as oshiroi also produced using white lead. In the second part of the 19th century, scientific advances in the production of makeup lead to the creation of makeup free of hazardous substances such as lead . Throughout

5830-545: The face in a circular motion. Gels, creams, or lotions may contain an acid to encourage dead skin cells to loosen, and an abrasive such as microbeads , sea salt and sugar, ground nut shells, rice bran, or ground apricot kernels to scrub the dead cells off the skin. Salt and sugar scrubs tend to be the harshest, while scrubs containing beads or rice bran are typically very gentle. A variety of organic compounds and inorganic compounds comprise typical cosmetics. Typical organic compounds are modified natural oils and fats as well as

5936-672: The first draft in Jean Santeuil . The portrait of the parents in Jean Santeuil is quite harsh, in marked contrast to the adoration with which the parents are painted in Proust's masterpiece. Following the poor reception of Les Plaisirs et les Jours , and internal troubles with resolving the plot, Proust gradually abandoned Jean Santeuil in 1897 and stopped work on it entirely by 1899. Beginning in 1895 Proust spent several years reading Thomas Carlyle , Ralph Waldo Emerson , and John Ruskin . Through this reading, he refined his theories of art and

6042-504: The generation alpha (the cohort born roughly between 2010 and 2025) and is growing up in a very different environment compared to previous generations, and several factors contribute to their heightened interest in skincare and makeup. Platforms like TikTok have also popularized short, fun videos about skincare and makeup tips, making beauty routines seem exciting and achievable. Social media platforms have made it easier for celebrities and influencers to become role models for Gen Alpha, and as

6148-466: The highest, and unquestionably the most original expression of French genius”. 1908 was an important year for Proust's development as a writer. During the first part of the year he published in various journals pastiches of other writers. These exercises in imitation may have allowed Proust to solidify his own style. In addition, in the spring and summer of the year Proust began work on several different fragments of writing that would later coalesce under

6254-453: The human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition includes any material intended for use as an ingredient in a cosmetic product, with the FDA specifically excluding pure soap from this category. Cosmetics designed for skin care may be used to cleanse, exfoliate and protect

6360-416: The last. This last volume was rendered by other translators at different times. When Scott Moncrieff's translation was later revised (first by Terence Kilmartin , then by D. J. Enright ) the title of the novel was changed to the more literal In Search of Lost Time . In 1995, Penguin undertook a fresh translation of the book by editor Christopher Prendergast and seven translators in three countries, based on

6466-412: The late 19th and early 20th centuries, changes in the prevailing attitudes towards cosmetics led to a wider expansion of the cosmetics industry. In 1882, English actress and socialite Lillie Langtry became the poster girl for Pears of London, making her the first celebrity to endorse a commercial product. She allowed her name to be used on face powders and skin products. During the 1910s, the market in

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6572-533: The legal definition of cosmetics in most countries is broader, in some Western countries , cosmetics are commonly taken to mean only makeup products, such as lipstick , mascara , eye shadow , foundation , blush , highlighter , bronzer , fake eyelashes , eyeliner , concealer , lip gloss , and several other product types. In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates cosmetics, defines cosmetics as products "intended to be applied to

6678-528: The likes of Boots and Sephora. This is most commonly reported in western countries, specifically America, Australia and the United Kingdom. This has garnered attention because it bring awareness to the growing need for make-up for younger girls and women, many criticize this claiming it's connected to western beauty standards which in recent years have become an increasingly controversial topic in many medias revolving around politics and women's rights. It's also

6784-586: The media over the last few years. Criticism of cosmetics has come from a wide variety of sources including some feminists , religious groups , animal rights activists , authors , and public interest groups. It has also faced criticism from men, some of whom describe it as a form of deception or fakeup . The new generation has been more accepting of males wearing makeup, and having a "soft pretty boy" look in South Korea has become more widespread in recent years, particularly among younger generations. This trend

6890-404: The men identified by police in a raid on a male brothel run by Albert Le Cuziat. Proust's friend Paul Morand openly teased Proust about his visits to male prostitutes . In his journal, Morand refers to Proust, as well as Gide, as "constantly hunting, never satiated by their adventures ... eternal prowlers, tireless sexual adventurers." The exact influence of Proust's sexuality on his writing

6996-411: The models for Madame Verdurin, and mother of his friend Gaston Arman de Caillavet , with whose fiancée (Jeanne Pouquet) he was in love. It is through Mme Arman de Caillavet, he made the acquaintance of Anatole France , her lover. Proust had a close relationship with his mother. To appease his father, who insisted that he pursue a career, Proust obtained a volunteer position at Bibliothèque Mazarine in

7102-480: The most common cosmetic products exported to the United States. According to Euromonitor International, the market for cosmetics in China is expected to be $ 7.4 billion in 2021 up from $ 4.3 billion in 2016. The increase is due to social media and the changing attitudes of people in the 18-to-30-year age bracket. Due to the popularity of cosmetics, especially fragrances, many designers who are not necessarily involved in

7208-468: The most enlightened secularists, and that both could serve the cause of "the advanced liberal Republic". He approved of the more moderate stance taken in 1906 by Aristide Briand , whom he described as "admirable". Proust was among the earliest Dreyfusards , even attending Émile Zola 's trial and proudly claiming to have been the one who asked Anatole France to sign the petition in support of Alfred Dreyfus 's innocence. In 1919, when representatives of

7314-466: The most important scenes of In Search of Lost Time take place. (Illiers was renamed Illiers-Combray in 1971 on the occasion of the Proust centenary celebrations.) In 1882, at the age of eleven, Proust became a pupil at the Lycée Condorcet ; however, his education was disrupted by his illness. Despite this, he excelled in literature, receiving an award in his final year. Thanks to his classmates, he

7420-446: The novel the "greatest fiction to date". André Gide was initially not so taken with his work. The first volume was refused by the publisher Gallimard on Gide's advice. He later wrote to Proust apologizing for his part in the refusal and calling it one of the most serious mistakes of his life. Finally, the book was published at the author's expense by Grasset and Proust paid critics to speak favorably about it. Proust died before he

7526-416: The perceived value. In 1973, the company Helena Rubinstein, Inc. was sold to Colgate-Palmolive . By the 1980's the brand had faded from the US market. In 1984 it was acquired by L'Oréal . The L'Oreal takeover was to cause a good deal of scandal as company founder, Eugène Schueller , had been an enthusiastic collaborator during the war, and in its aftermath, L'Oreal became notorious for employing ex-Nazis on

7632-531: The philanthropic Helena Rubinstein Foundation to provide funds to organizations specializing in health, medical research and rehabilitation. In 1959, Rubinstein represented the US cosmetics industry at the American National Exhibition in Moscow. Called "Madame" by her employees, she eschewed idle chatter, continued to be active in the corporation throughout her life, even from her sick bed, and staffed

7738-478: The prevalent usage of harmful cosmetics include the use of ceruse (white lead) throughout a number of different cultures, such as during the Renaissance in the West, and blindness caused by the mascara Lash Lure during the early 20th century. During the 19th century, there were numerous incidents of lead poisoning due to the fashion for red and white lead makeup and powder, leading to swelling and inflammation of

7844-559: The right-wing Action Française published a manifesto upholding French colonialism and the Catholic Church as the embodiment of civilised values, Proust rejected their nationalistic and chauvinistic views in favor of a liberal pluralist vision which acknowledged Christianity 's cultural legacy in France . Julien Benda commended Proust in La Trahison des clercs as a writer who distinguished himself from his generation by avoiding

7950-686: The role of the artist in society. Also, in Time Regained Proust's universal protagonist recalls having translated Ruskin's Sesame and Lilies . The artist's responsibility is to confront the appearance of nature, deduce its essence and retell or explain that essence in the work of art. Ruskin's view of artistic production was central to this conception, and Ruskin's work was so important to Proust that he claimed to know "by heart" several of Ruskin's books, including The Seven Lamps of Architecture , The Bible of Amiens , and Praeterita . Proust set out to translate two of Ruskin's works into French, but

8056-534: The run. Jacques Corrèze , who engineered the takeover, was one of these: he had been active in expropriating Jewish property in Paris. The brand was re-launched in the US market in 1999 but it was unprofitable despite its having a renaissance in Asia, Europe, and South America. The US operation was closed down in 2003. Since 2011, L'Oréal has been repositioning the brand as an ultra-premium skin care franchise. As of 2023, high-end Helena Rubinstein products remain unavailable in

8162-474: The same primary ingredients as dry mineral makeups. Liquid makeups must contain preservatives, and compressed makeups must contain binders, which dry mineral makeups do not. Mineral makeup usually does not contain synthetic fragrances, preservatives, parabens, mineral oil, or chemical dyes. For this reason, dermatologists may consider mineral makeup to be gentler on the skin than makeup that contains those ingredients. Some minerals are nacreous or pearlescent, giving

8268-522: The same year. Finally, and most crushingly, Proust's beloved mother died in September 1905. She left him a considerable inheritance. His health throughout this period continued to deteriorate. Proust spent the last three years of his life mostly confined to his bedroom of his apartment 44 rue Hamelin (in Chaillot ), sleeping during the day and working at night to complete his novel. He died of pneumonia and

8374-414: The skin a shining or sparking appearance. One example is bismuth oxychloride . There are various mineral-based makeup brands, including: Bare Minerals, Tarte , Bobbi Brown , and Stila . The term cosmetic packaging is used for primary packaging and secondary packaging of cosmetic products. Primary packaging, also called cosmetic containers, houses the cosmetic product. It is in direct contact with

8480-403: The skin, as well as replenish it, using body lotions , cleansers , toners , serums, moisturizers , eye creams, retinol , and balms. Cosmetics designed for more general personal care , such as shampoo , soap, and body wash , can be used to clean the body. Cosmetics designed to enhance one's appearance (makeup) can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance one's natural features, or add color to

8586-724: The skin. The FDA , which regulates the US cosmetic industry, says "FDA has not defined the term “natural” and has not established a regulatory definition for this term in cosmetic labeling." It goes on to warn consumers, "choosing ingredients from sources you consider “organic” or “natural” is no guarantee that they are safe." The term "mineral makeup" applies to a category of face makeup, including foundation, eye shadow, blush, and bronzer, made with loose, dry mineral powders. These powders are often mixed with oil-water emulsions . Lipsticks, liquid foundations, and other liquid cosmetics, as well as compressed makeups such as eye shadow and blush in compacts, are often called mineral makeup if they have

8692-497: The summer of 1896. After exerting considerable effort, he obtained a sick leave that extended for several years until he was considered to have resigned. He never worked at his job, and he did not move from his parents' apartment until after both were dead. His life and family circle changed markedly between 1900 and 1905. In February 1903, Proust's brother, Robert Proust , married and left the family home. His father died in November of

8798-831: The title Madame Rubinstein , before opening at Sydney's Ensemble Theatre in August of the same year. Miriam Margolyes starred as Rubinstein. Sources Cosmetics People have used cosmetics for thousands of years for skin care and appearance enhancement. Visible cosmetics for women and men have gone in and out of fashion over the centuries. Some early forms of cosmetics used harmful ingredients such as lead that caused serious health problems and sometimes resulted in death. Modern commercial cosmetics are generally tested for safety but may contain controversial ingredients, such as per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), formaldehyde releasers , and ingredients that cause allergic reactions. The European Union and regulatory agencies around

8904-523: The twin traps of nationalism and class sectarianism. Proust was considered a hypochondriac by his doctors. His correspondence provides some clues on his symptoms. According to Yellowlees Douglas, Proust suffered from the vascular subtype of Ehlers–Danlos Syndrome . Proust was involved in writing and publishing from an early age. In addition to the literary magazines with which he was associated, and in which he published while at school ( La Revue verte and La Revue lilas ), from 1890 to 1891 he published

9010-531: The unfinished manuscript notebooks are many elements that correspond to parts of the Recherche , in particular, to the "Combray" and "Swann in Love" sections of Volume 1, and to the final section of Volume 7. Trouble with finding a publisher, as well as a gradually changing conception of his novel, led Proust to shift work to a substantially different project that still contained many of the same themes and elements. By 1910 he

9116-579: The use of cosmetics continued into the Middle Ages —where the face was whitened and the cheeks rouged— though attitudes towards cosmetics varied throughout time, with the use of cosmetics being openly frowned upon at many points in Western history. Regardless of the changes in social attitudes towards cosmetics, many occasionally achieved ideals of appearance through cosmetics. According to one source, early major developments in cosmetics include: Historically,

9222-520: The various salons became a great success. The purported portrait of Rubinstein in her advertising was of a middle-age mannequin with a Gentile appearance. In 1928, she sold the American business to Lehman Brothers for $ 7.3 million, ($ 127 million in 2022). After the onset of the Great Depression , she bought back the nearly worthless stock for less than $ 1 million and eventually increased the value of

9328-404: The working class. Lead can be detrimental to people's health and cause death if mixed with vinegar which it allows lead to be absorbed through the skin. Though there are a large number of different cosmetics used for a variety of different purposes, all cosmetics are typically intended to be applied externally. These products can be applied to the face (on the skin, lips, eyebrows, and eyes), to

9434-408: The working title of Contre Sainte-Beuve . Proust described his efforts in a letter to a friend: "I have in progress: a study on the nobility, a Parisian novel, an essay on Sainte-Beuve and Flaubert , an essay on women, an essay on pederasty (not easy to publish), a study on stained-glass windows, a study on tombstones, a study on the novel". From these disparate fragments Proust began to shape

9540-537: The world have stringent regulations for cosmetics. In the United States, cosmetic products and ingredients do not require FDA approval. Some countries have banned using animals for cosmetic testing. The word cosmetics is derived from the Greek κοσμητικὴ τέχνη ( kosmetikē tekhnē ), meaning "technique of dress and ornament," from κοσμητικός ( kosmētikos ), "skilled in ordering or arranging," and from κόσμος ( kosmos ), meaning "order" and "ornament.". Though

9646-540: The world's largest cosmetics company is L'Oréal , founded by Eugène Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 26% and Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is traded publicly). Although modern makeup has been traditionally used mainly by women, men also use makeup to enhance their own facial features or cover blemishes and dark circles. The negative stigma of men wearing makeup in countries such as

9752-519: Was "diagnosed" and a suitable treatment "prescribed". Sydney was next, and within five years, Australian operations were profitable enough to finance a Salon de Beauté Valaze in London. As such, Rubinstein formed one of the world's first cosmetic companies. Her business enterprise proved immensely successful and later in life, she used her enormous wealth to support charitable institutions in the fields of education, art, and health. Rubinstein rapidly expanded her operation. In 1908, her sister Ceska assumed

9858-464: Was a French novelist , literary critic , and essayist who wrote the monumental novel À la recherche du temps perdu (in French – translated in English as Remembrance of Things Past and more recently as In Search of Lost Time ) which was published in seven volumes between 1913 and 1927. He is considered by critics and writers to be one of the most influential authors of the 20th century. Proust

9964-524: Was a longtime supporter of children's programming for New York City's PBS affiliate WNET . The Manhattan Jewish Museum hosted the exhibition "Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power", the first museum show devoted to Rubinstein, from October 31, 2014, until March 22, 2015. A one-off Rubinstein Mural Prize was awarded in 1958 to Erica McGilchrist for her work in the Women's College, University of Melbourne , and

10070-723: Was a marketing ploy, including Rubinstein's being able to pass herself off as Helena Princess Gourielli. Rubinstein took a packed lunch to work and was frugal in many matters, but bought top-fashion clothing and valuable fine art and furniture. She founded the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion of Contemporary Art at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and in 1957 she established the Helena Rubinstein Travelling Art Scholarship in Australia. In 1953, she established

10176-498: Was a shopkeeper in Kraków , Lesser Poland , which was then occupied by Austria-Hungary following the partitions of Poland in the late 18th century. The existentialist philosopher Martin Buber was her cousin. She was also the cousin of Ruth Rappaport 's mother. After refusing an arranged marriage, Rubinstein emigrated from Poland to Australia in 1896, with no money and little command of

10282-408: Was able to complete his revision of the drafts and proofs of the final volumes, the last three of which were published posthumously and edited by his brother Robert . The book was translated into English by C. K. Scott Moncrieff , appearing under the title Remembrance of Things Past between 1922 and 1931. Scott Moncrieff translated volumes one through six of the seven volumes, dying before completing

10388-515: Was able to gain access to some of the salons of the upper bourgeoisie , providing him with copious material for In Search of Lost Time . In spite of his poor health, Proust served a year (1889–90) in the French army, stationed at Coligny Barracks in Orléans , an experience that provided a lengthy episode in The Guermantes' Way , part three of his novel. As a young man, Proust was a dilettante and

10494-488: Was at work on À la recherche du temps perdu . Begun in 1909, when Proust was 38 years old, À la recherche du temps perdu consists of seven volumes totaling around 3,200 pages (about 4,300 in The Modern Library's translation) and featuring more than 2,000 characters. Graham Greene called Proust the "greatest novelist of the twentieth century, just as Tolstoy was of the nineteenth" and W. Somerset Maugham called

10600-714: Was born on 10 July 1871 at the home of his great-uncle in the Paris Borough of Auteuil (the south-western sector of the then-rustic 16th arrondissement ), two months after the Treaty of Frankfurt formally ended the Franco-Prussian War . His birth took place at the very beginning of the French Third Republic , during the violence that surrounded the suppression of the Paris Commune , and his childhood corresponded with

10706-489: Was hampered by an imperfect command of English. To compensate for this he made his translations a group affair: sketched out by his mother, the drafts were first revised by Proust, then by Marie Nordlinger, the English cousin of his friend and sometime lover Reynaldo Hahn , then finally polished by Proust. Questioned about his method by an editor, Proust responded, "I don't claim to know English; I claim to know Ruskin". The Bible of Amiens , with Proust's extended introduction,

10812-489: Was home to some 75 million sheep that secreted abundant quantities of lanolin. These sheep were the wealth of the nation and the Western District's vast mobs of merinos produced the finest wool in the land. To disguise the lanolin's pungent odour, Rubinstein experimented with lavender , pine bark, and water lilies . Rubinstein had a falling out with her uncle, but after a stint as a bush governess began waitressing at

10918-899: Was published in French in 1904. Both the translation and the introduction were well-reviewed; Henri Bergson called Proust's introduction "an important contribution to the psychology of Ruskin", and had similar praise for the translation. At the time of this publication, Proust was already translating Ruskin's Sesame and Lilies , which he completed in June 1905, just before his mother's death, and published in 1906. Literary historians and critics have ascertained that, apart from Ruskin, Proust's chief literary influences included Saint-Simon , Montaigne , Stendhal , Flaubert , George Eliot , Fyodor Dostoyevsky , and Leo Tolstoy . In Proust’s 1904 article "La mort des cathédrales" (The Death of Cathedrals) published in Le Figaro , Proust called Gothic cathedrals “probably

11024-409: Was published. The book included a foreword by Anatole France , drawings by Mme Lemaire in whose salon Proust was a frequent guest, and who inspired Proust's Mme Verdurin. She invited him and Reynaldo Hahn to her château de Réveillon (the model for Mme Verdurin's La Raspelière) in summer 1894, and for three weeks in 1895. This book was so sumptuously produced that it cost twice the normal price of

11130-516: Was supportive of the French Third Republic and near the liberal centre of French politics. In an 1892 article published in Le Banquet entitled "L'Irréligion d'État", Proust condemned extreme anti-clerical measures such as the expulsion of monks, observing that "one might just be surprised that the negation of religion should bring in its wake the same fanaticism , intolerance, and persecution as religion itself." He argued that socialism posed

11236-515: Was the daughter of a wealthy German–Jewish family from Alsace . Literate and well-read, she demonstrated a well-developed sense of humour in her letters, and her command of the English language was sufficient to help with her son's translations of John Ruskin . Proust was raised in his father's Catholic faith . He was baptized on 5 August 1871 at the Church of Saint-Louis-d'Antin and later confirmed as

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