123-613: Arataki Visitor Centre is a tourism and education centre in West Auckland, New Zealand , often described as the gateway to the Waitākere Ranges . The centre provides information about the Waitākere Ranges , and organises educational events. The Arataki Nature Trail, located near the site of the visitor centre, was first opened in 1974. The name Arataki is a Māori language word, meaning an "instructional path". The plant identification trail features examples of different species found in
246-403: A dendrochronology has been created which reaches back 4,500 years, the longest tree ring record of past climate change in the southern hemisphere. One 1700 year old swamp wood kauri that dates to approximately 42,000 years ago contains fine-scale carbon-14 fluctuations in its rings that may be reflective of the most recent magnetic field flip of the earth. Much like podocarps , it feeds in
369-634: A drying process , such ancient kauri can be used for furniture, but not for construction. The small remaining pockets of kauri forest in New Zealand have survived in areas that were not subjected to burning by Māori and were too inaccessible for European loggers. The largest area of mature kauri forest is Waipoua Forest in Northland . Mature and regenerating kauri can also be found in other National and Regional Parks such as Puketi and Omahuta Forests in Northland,
492-465: A Te Kawerau ā Maki chief's body was laid on this rock. Whakatū is the traditional name for the Tasman Sea and the beaches south of Te Henga / Bethells Beach. It is a shortening of the name Nga Tai Whakatū a Kupe ("The Upraised Seas of Kupe"), referring to Kupe 's visit to the west coast and his attempts to evade people pursuing him, by chanting a karakia to make the west coast seas rough. Te Wao Nui
615-687: A Tiriwa, the Great Forest of Tiriwa, references the name of Tiriwa, a chief of the supernatural Tūrehu people. The name refers to all of the forested areas of the Waitākere Ranges south from Muriwai and the Kaipara Harbour portage to the Manukau Harbour . The modern use of West Auckland to refer to areas such as New Lynn and Henderson was popularised in the 1960s and 1970s. Prior to this, West Auckland or Western Auckland mostly referred to
738-409: A century, has considerably decreased the number of kauri trees. It has been estimated that before 1840, the kauri forests of northern New Zealand occupied at least 12,000 square kilometres. The British Royal Navy sent four vessels, HMS Coromandel (1821), HMS Dromedary (1821), HMS Buffalo (1840), and HMS Tortoise (1841) to gather kauri-wood spars. By 1900, less than 10 per cent of
861-401: A cone contains a single winged seed approximately 5 mm by 8 mm and attached to a thin wing perhaps half as large again. The cone is fully open and dispersed within only two to three days of starting. Studies show that kauri develop root grafts through which they share water and nutrients with neighbours of the same species. Heavy logging , which began around 1820 and continued for
984-459: A different pathogen, Phytophthora agathidicida and subsequently spread to kauri forest on the mainland. The disease, known as kauri dieback or kauri collar rot, is believed to be over 300 years old and causes yellowing leaves, thinning canopy, dead branches, lesions that bleed resin, and tree death. Phytophthora agathidicida was identified as a new species in April 2008. Its closest known relative
1107-419: A few weeks. In terms of local topography , kauri is far from randomly dispersed. As mentioned above, kauri relies on depriving its competitors of nutrition in order to survive. However, one important consideration not discussed thus far is the slope of the land. Water on hills flows downward by the action of gravity, taking with it the nutrients in the soil. This results in a gradient from nutrient poor soil at
1230-457: A food source for the larvae of the New Zealand giraffe weevil, Lasiorhynchus barbicornis . The larvae of L. barbicornis burrow into the wood of a tree for up to two years. Then L. barbicornis exit the bark of the tree as a fully formed adult beetle. These adult L. barbicornis exit from trees in Spring and Summer and months. After emerging from the tree, these adult L. barbicornis only live for
1353-632: A generation of trees of similar age after each disturbance. The distribution of kauri allows researchers to deduce when and where disturbances have occurred, and how large they may have been; the presence of abundant kauri may indicate that an area is prone to disturbance. Kauri seedlings can still occur in areas with low light but mortality rates increase for such seedlings, and those that survive self-thinning and grow to sapling stage tend to be found in higher light environments. During periods with less disturbance kauri tends to lose ground to broadleaf competitors which can better tolerate shaded environments. In
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#17328586485411476-421: A kauri logging sawmill on Te Wai-o-Pareira / Henderson Creek. Communities developed around the kauri logging business at Riverhead and Helensville, which were later important trade centres for the kauri gum industry that developed in the Waitākere Ranges foothills. Between 1840 and 1940, 23 timber mills worked the Waitākere Ranges, felling about 120,000 trees. By the 1920s there was little kauri forest left in
1599-555: A location for the capital of the colony of New Zealand. This location became the modern city of Auckland . Many further tuku and land purchases were made; the earliest in West Auckland were organised by Ngāti Whātua, without the knowledge or consent of the senior rangatira of Te Kawerau ā Maki, however some purchases in the 1850s involved the iwi. In 1844, 18,000 acres (7,300 ha) of land at Te Atatū and Henderson were sold to Thomas Henderson and John Macfarlane, who established
1722-467: A mature tree in which its own roots feed. As with most perennials, these feeding roots also house a symbiotic fungi known as mycorrhiza which increase the plant's efficiency in taking up nutrients. In this mutualistic relationship, the fungus derives its own nutrition from the roots. In its interactions with the soil, kauri is thus able to starve its competitors of much needed nutrients and compete with much younger lineages . The fungi on kauri are
1845-589: A musket pā at Te Henga / Bethells Beach. The earliest permanent European settlement in the Auckland Region was the Cornwallis , which was settled in 1835 by Australian timber merchant Thomas Mitchell. Helped by William White of the English Wesleyan Mission , Mitchell negotiated with the chief Āpihai Te Kawau of Ngāti Whātua for the purchase of 40,000 acres (16,000 ha) of land in West Auckland on
1968-513: A nature reserve. The Auckland Centennial Memorial Park, which opened in 1940, was formed from various pockets of land that had been reserved by the Auckland City Council starting in 1895. Titirangi resident Arthur Mead, the principal engineer who created the Waitākere Ranges dams, lobbied the city council and negotiated with landowners to expand the park. Owing to the efforts of Mead, the park had tripled in size by 1964, when it became
2091-622: A number of association football teams, including Bay Olympic who as of 2022 play in the Northern League . The Trusts Arena , a multi-purpose stadium in Henderson, regularly hosts large-scale sporting events and concerts. The Avondale Racecourse is both a venue for Thoroughbred racing , and the home of the Avondale Sunday Markets, one of the largest regular markets in New Zealand. Other large amenities in West Auckland include
2214-564: A number of co-educational secondary schools , including Avondale College , one of the largest high schools in New Zealand with a roll of 2834 students. Other state co-educational schools include Massey High School (1839 students), Henderson High School (1056 students), Waitakere College (1828 students), Rutherford College (1432 students), Hobsonville Point Secondary School (854 students) and Green Bay High School (1761 students). The first private secondary school in West Auckland, ACG Sunderland School and College , opened in 2007 at
2337-614: A petition to the Government. The zoologist William Roy McGregor was one of the driving forces in this movement, writing an 80-page illustrated pamphlet on the subject, which proved an effective manifesto for conservation. Along with the Warawara to the North, Waipoua Forest contains three quarters of New Zealand's remaining kauri. Kauri Grove on the Coromandel Peninsula is another area with
2460-674: A population of 282,129 at the 2018 New Zealand census , an increase of 29,562 people (11.7%) since the 2013 census , and an increase of 45,675 people (19.3%) since the 2006 census . There were 87,870 households, comprising 140,004 males and 142,122 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.99 males per female, with 59,559 people (21.1%) aged under 15 years, 60,672 (21.5%) aged 15 to 29, 130,470 (46.2%) aged 30 to 64, and 31,434 (11.1%) aged 65 or older. Ethnicities were 54.5% European/ Pākehā , 13.4% Māori , 16.6% Pacific peoples , 27.4% Asian , and 3.6% other ethnicities. People may identify with more than one ethnicity. The percentage of people born overseas
2583-653: A potentially attractive alternative to short rotation forestry options such as Pinus radiata . Kauri is considered a first rate timber. The whiter sapwood is generally slightly lighter in weight. Kauri is not highly resistant to rot and when used in boatbuilding must be protected from the elements with paint, varnish or epoxy to avoid rot. Its popularity with boatbuilders is due to its very long, clear lengths, its relatively light weight and its beautiful sheen when oiled or varnished. Kauri wood planes and saws easily. Its wood holds screws and nails very well and does not readily split, crack, or warp. Kauri wood darkens with age to
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#17328586485412706-735: A remaining cluster of kauri, and includes the Siamese Kauri , two trees with a conjoined lower trunk. In 1921 a philanthropic Cornishman named James Trounson sold to the Government for £40,000, a large area adjacent to a few acres of Crown land and said to contain at least 4,000 kauri trees. From time to time Trounson gifted additional land, until what is known as Trounson Park comprised a total of 4 km . The most famous specimens are Tāne Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere in Waipoua Forest. These two trees have become tourist attractions because of their size and accessibility. Tane Mahuta, named after
2829-543: A richer golden brown colour. Very little New Zealand kauri is now sold, and the most commonly available kauri in New Zealand is Fiji kauri , which is very similar in appearance but lighter in weight. Prehistoric kauri forests have been preserved in waterlogged soils as swamp kauri . A considerable number of kauri have been found buried in salt marshes , resulting from ancient natural changes such as volcanic eruptions, sea-level changes and floods. Such trees have been radiocarbon dated to 50,000 years ago or older. The bark and
2952-420: A single branch falling off. Kauri trees must therefore remain alive long enough for a large disturbance to occur, allowing them sufficient light to regenerate. In areas where large amounts of forest are destroyed, such as by logging, kauri seedlings are able to regenerate much more easily due not only to increased sunlight, but their relatively strong resistance to wind and frosts. Kauri occupy the emergent layer of
3075-480: A tug of war effect where kauri retreats uphill during periods of calm, then takes over lower areas briefly during mass disturbances. Although such trends cannot be observed in a human lifetime, research into current patterns of distribution, behavior of species in experimental conditions, and study of pollen sediments (see palynology ) have helped shed light on the life history of kauri. Kauri seeds may generally be taken from mature cones in late March. Each scale on
3198-472: Is Phytophthora katsurae . The pathogen is believed to be spread on people's shoes or by mammals, particularly feral pigs. A collaborative response team has been formed to work on the disease. The team includes MAF Biosecurity , the Conservation Department , Auckland and Northland regional councils, Waikato Regional Council , and Bay of Plenty Regional Council. The team is charged with assessing
3321-411: Is equivalent to 8.7 annual rings per centimetre of core, said to be half the commonly quoted figure for growth rate. The same study found only a weak relationship between age and diameter. The growth of kauri in planted and second-growth natural forests has been reviewed and compared during the development of growth and yield models for the species. Kauri in planted forests were found to have up to 12 times
3444-400: Is important for kauri's survival as it competes with other species for space. Leaf litter and other decaying parts of a kauri decompose much more slowly than those of most other species. Besides its acidity, the plant also bears substances such as waxes and phenols , most notably tannins , that are harmful to microorganisms . This results in a large buildup of litter around the base of
3567-449: Is involved with the traditional story of the creation of Rangitoto Island , by uplifting it from Karekare on the west coast. The early Polynesian navigator Kupe visited the west coast. The Tasman Sea alongside the coast was named after Kupe, and traditional stories tell of his visit to Paratutae Island , leaving paddle marks in the cliffs of the island to commemorate his visit. The Tainui tohunga Rakataura (also known as Hape)
3690-466: Is known as niche partitioning , and allows more than one species to occupy the same area. Those species which live alongside kauri include tawari , a montane broadleaf tree which is normally found in higher altitudes, where nutrient cycling is naturally slow. Kauri is found growing in its natural ecosystem north of 38°S latitude . Its southern limit stretches from the Kawhia Harbour in the west to
3813-474: Is one technique used by scientists to uncover the history of the tree's distribution, with stump kauri from peat swamps used for measurement. The coldest period in recent times occurred about 15,000 to 20,000 years ago, during which time kauri was apparently confined north of Kaitaia, near the northernmost point of the North Island, North Cape . Kauri requires a mean temperature of 17 °C or more for most of
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3936-414: Is such a conspicuous species, forest containing kauri is generally known as kauri forest , although kauri need not be the most abundant tree. In the warmer northern climate, kauri forests have a higher species richness than those found further south. Kauri even act as a foundation species that modify the soil under their canopy to create unique plant communities. Scottish botanist David Don described
4059-456: Is the largest (by volume) but not tallest species of tree in New Zealand, standing up to 50 m tall in the emergent layer above the forest's main canopy. The tree has smooth bark and small narrow leaves. Other common names to distinguish A. australis from other members of Agathis are southern kauri and New Zealand kauri . With its podsolization capability and regeneration pattern it can compete with faster growing angiosperms . Because it
4182-418: Is very shallow, it also has several downwardly directed peg roots which anchor it firmly in the soil. Such a solid foundation is necessary to prevent a tree the size of a kauri from blowing over in storms and cyclones. The litter left by kauri is much more acidic than most trees, and as it decays similarly acidic compounds are liberated. In a process known as leaching , these acidic molecules pass through
4305-585: Is volcanic material from Mount Taranaki (including the Pouakai Range and Sugar Loaf Islands volcanoes) which has drifted northwards, and potentially material from the Taupō Volcano and other central North Island volcanoes which travelled down the Waikato River as sediment. While much of West Auckland, especially the Waitākere Ranges, was historically dominated by kauri , northern rātā , rimu most of
4428-687: Is within the rohe of Te Kawerau ā Maki , whose traditional names for the area were Hikurangi, Waitākere, and Te Wao Nui a Tiriwa, the latter of which refers to the forest of the greater Waitākere Ranges area. Most settlements and pā were centred around the west coast beaches and the Waitākere River valley. Two of the major waka portages are found in the area: the Te Tōanga Waka (the Whau River portage), and Te Tōangaroa (the Kumeū portage), connecting
4551-512: The Moekākara and Tainui . Māori settlement of the Auckland Region began at least 800 years ago, in the 13th century or earlier. Some of the first tribal identities that developed for Tāmaki Māori who settled in West Auckland include Tini o Maruiwi, Ngā Oho and Ngā Iwi. One of the earliest individuals associated with the area is Tiriwa, a chief of the supernatural Tūrehu people, who
4674-538: The Māori forest god , is the biggest existing kauri with a girth of 13.77 metres (45.2 feet), a trunk height of 17.68 metres (58.0 feet), a total height of 51.2 metres (168 feet) and a total volume including the crown of 516.7 cubic metres (18,250 cubic feet). Te Matua Ngahere, which means 'Father of the Forest', is smaller but stouter than Tane Mahuta, with a girth (circumference) of 16.41 m (53.8 ft). Important note: all
4797-671: The North Auckland railway line in 1880 and the Northwestern Motorway in the 1950s. West Auckland is not a strictly defined area. It includes the former Waitakere City , which existed between 1989 and 2010 between the Whau River and Hobsonville , an area which includes major suburbs such as Henderson , Te Atatū , Glen Eden , Titirangi and New Lynn . West Auckland typically also includes Avondale , and Blockhouse Bay . The Whau River and Te Tōanga Waka (the Whau portage ) marked
4920-628: The Paradice Ice Skating rink in Avondale, West Wave Pool and Leisure Centre in Henderson, and the Titirangi Golf Club. In the 1980s, Te Atatū Peninsula was the site of Footrot Flats Fun Park , a large-scale amusement park that closed in 1989. Agathis australis Agathis australis , or kauri , is a coniferous tree in the family Araucariaceae , found north of 38°S in the northern regions of New Zealand's North Island . It
5043-588: The Te Atatū Peninsula , including Ōrukuwai and Ōrangihina. In the early 1600s, members of Ngāti Awa from the Kawhia Harbour , most notably the rangatira Maki and his brother Matāhu, migrated north to the Tāmaki Makaurau region, where they had ancestral ties. Maki conquered and united Tāmaki Māori people of the west coast and northern Auckland Region. Within a few generations, the name Te Kawerau ā Maki developed to refer to this collective. Those living on
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5166-686: The Waitematā , Manukau and Kaipara harbours. European settlement of the region began in the 1840s, centred around the kauri logging trade. Later industries developed around kauri gum digging, orchards, vineyards and the clay brickworks of the estuaries of the Waitematā Harbour, most notably at New Lynn on the Whau River. Originally isolated from the developing city of Auckland on the Auckland isthmus , West Auckland began to expand after being connected to
5289-417: The Waitākere Ranges near Auckland, and Coromandel Forest Park on the Coromandel Peninsula . The importance of Waipoua Forest in relation to the kauri was that it remained the only kauri forest retaining its former virgin condition, and that it was extensive enough to give reasonable promise of permanent survival. On 2 July 1952 an area of over 80 km of Waipoua was proclaimed a forest sanctuary after
5412-533: The Waitākere Ranges . The visitor centre was opened in 1994, with a design by Harry Turbott . The carved pou at the entrance of the centre depicts the ancestors of Te Kawerau ā Maki , including Tiriwā (the namesake of the Waitākere Ranges name in Māori, Te Wao Nui a Tiriwa), followed by Rakatāura / Hape ( tohunga of the Tainui ), Hoturoa , Maki (the namesake ancestor of Te Kawerau ā Maki) and his son and grandson. The pou
5535-564: The Waitākere Ranges Regional Park . By the early 1950s, four major centres had developed to the west of Auckland: New Lynn, Henderson, Helensville and Glen Eden. These areas had large enough populations to become boroughs with their own local government, splitting from the rural Waitemata County. Over the next 20 years, the area saw an explosion in population, driven by the construction of the Northwestern Motorway and
5658-584: The banded dotterel and the grey-faced petrel , and the korowai gecko is endemic to the west coast near Muriwai . The catchments of the Te Wai-o-Pareira / Henderson Creek and the Whau River are home to marine species including the New Zealand longfin eel , banded kōkopu , common galaxias ( īnanga ) and the freshwater crab Amarinus lacustris . The area was settled early in Māori history , by people arriving on Māori migration canoes such as
5781-473: The kererū (native pigeon). However, kauri trees can produce seeds while relatively young, taking only 50 years or so before giving rise to their own offspring. This trait makes them somewhat like a pioneer species , despite the fact that their long lifespan is characteristic of K-selected species. In good conditions, where access to water and sunlight are above average, diameters in excess of 15 centimetres and seed production can occur inside 15 years. Just as
5904-408: The organic litter near the surface of the soil through fine root hairs . This layer of the soil is composed of organic matter derived from falling leaves and branches as well as dead trees, and is constantly undergoing decomposition . On the other hand, broadleaf trees such as māhoe derive a good fraction of their nutrition in the deeper mineral layer of the soil. Although its feeding root system
6027-545: The rohe (border) between Muriwai Beach and Rangitōpuni ( Riverhead ). In the 1740s, war broke out between Ngāti Whātua and Waiohua , the confederation of Tāmaki Māori tribes centred to the east, on the Tāmaki isthmus . While Te Kawerau ā Maki remained neutral, the battle of Te-Rangi-hinganga-tahi, in which the Waiohua paramount chief Kiwi Tāmaki was killed, was held at Paruroa ( Big Muddy Creek ) on Te Kawerau ā Maki lands. In
6150-474: The 1910s and 1950s, most members of Te Kawerau ā Maki moved away from their traditional rohe, in search of employment or community with other Māori. After the construction of the dams, the Nihotupu and Huia areas reforested in native bush. The native forest left a strong impression on residents who lived in these communities, and was one of the major factors that sparked the campaign for the Waitākere Ranges to become
6273-559: The Auckland Region was lowered 2,000–3,000 metres (6,600–9,800 ft) below sea level, forming a sedimentary basin. Approximately 20 million years ago, this subduction led to the formation of the Waitākere volcano , a partially submerged volcano located to the west of the modern Auckland Region. The volcano is the largest stratovolcano in the geologic history of New Zealand, over 50 kilometres (31 mi) in diameter and reaching an estimated height of 4,000 metres (13,000 ft) above
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#17328586485416396-666: The Auckland city centre. West Auckland is home to a number of large urban parks, including Parrs Park , Moire Park, Henderson Park, Tui Glen Reserve and Olympic Park. Many professional and amateur sports teams are based in West Auckland, including: the Waitakere Cricket Club ; rugby league teams Glenora Bears , the Waitemata Seagulls and Te Atatu Roosters ; an ice hockey team, the West Auckland Admirals ; and
6519-577: The Lincoln Road, Swanson Road and Sturges Road areas had developed into orchards run primarily by Dalmatian families, and in the 1940s these families began establishing vineyards at Kumeū and Huapai . In the 1920s and 1930s, flat land throughout Hobsonville and Whenuapai was the site of an airfield development for the New Zealand Air Force . Whenuapai became the main airport for civilian aviation between 1945 and 1965. The Northwestern Motorway
6642-730: The Northwestern Motorway when the Waterview Connection opened to traffic in July 2017. The first stages of the Northwestern Busway , a project that was first envisioned as a light rail line adjacent to the Northwestern Motorway, are currently under construction. In addition to the motorways, major roads in West Auckland include Great North Road , Don Buck Road, Lincoln Road, West Coast Road, Swanson Road, Scenic Drive and Portage Road. Two ferry terminals in West Auckland, at West Harbour and Hobsonville, operate commuter ferry services to
6765-471: The Park was established as an open sanctuary to reintroduce native species to the Waitākere Ranges. Whiteheads ( pōpokatea ), North Island robin ( toutouwai ) and kokako have all been successfully re-established in the area, and between 2014 and 2016 brown teals ( pāteke ) were reintroduced to the nearby Matuku Reserve. The west coast beaches are nesting locations for many seabird species, including
6888-564: The Tasman Sea shoreline was over 20 kilometres (12 mi) west of its current location. The mouths of the rivers of West Auckland flooded, forming into large estuaries. Tidal mudflats formed at the Manukau Harbour river mouths, such as Huia , Big Muddy Creek and Little Muddy Creek . Sand dunes formed along the estuaries of the west coast, creating beaches such as Piha and Te Henga / Bethells Beach . The black ironsand of these beaches
7011-477: The Waipoua forest and was until that time, essentially unlogged (Adams, 1980). The plan also involved considerable cost, requiring a long road to be driven up a steep high plateau into the heart of the protected area. Because the stands of kauri were dense, the ecological destruction in the affected plateau area (approximately a fifth of the forest by area, and a quarter by volume of timber) was essentially complete (as of
7134-517: The Waitākeres, and the area continued to be used to search for kauri gum until the early 20th century. The first brick kiln in West Auckland was built by Daniel Pollen in 1852, on the Rosebank Peninsula along the shores of the Whau River. Brickworks and the pottery industry became a major industry in the area, with 39 brickworks active along the shores of the Waitematā Harbour, primarily on
7257-478: The absence of branches for much of its height. Kauri crown and stump wood was much appreciated for its beauty, and was sought after for ornamental wood panelling as well as high-end furniture. Although not as highly prized, the light colour of kauri trunk wood made it also well-suited for more utilitarian furniture construction, as well as for use in the fabrication of cisterns, barrels, bridge construction material, fences, moulds for metal forges, large rollers for
7380-459: The area include Hikurangi, Waitākere, Whakatū and Te Wao Nui a Tiriwa. Hikurangi referred to the central and western Waitākere Ranges south of the Waitākere River , and was originally a name given by Rakatāura , the tohunga of the Tainui migratory canoe to a location south of Piha . Hikurangi is a common placename across Polynesia , and likely marked the point on the coast where the last light of
7503-560: The area is dominated by the Waitākere Ranges , the eastern slopes of the Miocene era Waitākere volcano which was upraised from the ocean floor, and now one of the largest regional parks in New Zealand. The metropolitan area of West Auckland developed between the Waitākere Ranges to the west and the upper reaches of the Waitematā Harbour to the east. It covers areas such as Glen Eden , Henderson , Massey and New Lynn . West Auckland
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#17328586485417626-407: The area of kauri forest standing before 1000AD was destroyed by about 1900, it is not surprising that recent records are of smaller, but still very large trees. Two large kauri fell during tropical storms in the 1970s. One of these was Toronui , in Waipoua Forest. Its diameter was larger than that of Tāne Mahuta and its clean bole larger than that of Te Matua Ngahere , and by forestry measurements
7749-402: The area. Unlike most defensive pā found on the Auckland isthmus, not many Waitākere pā used defensive ditchwork, instead preferring natural barriers. Few settlements were found in the central Waitākere Ranges or in the modern urban centres of West Auckland. Some notable exceptions were near the portages where waka could be hauled between the three harbours of West Auckland: Te Tōangaroa ,
7872-545: The areas directly adjacent to the Waitematā Harbour, such as New Lynn, Te Atatū and Hobsonville, are formed from rhyolitic clays and peat , formed from eroding soil and interactions with the harbour. The modern topography of West Auckland began to form approximately 8,000 years ago when the sea level rose at the end of the Last Glacial maximum . Prior to this, the Manukau and Waitematā harbours were forested river valleys, and
7995-441: The balance was used locally to build houses and ships. Much of the timber was sold for a return sufficient only to cover wages and expenses. From 1871 to 1895 the receipts indicate a rate of about 8 shillings (around NZ$ 20 in 2003) per 100 superficial feet (34 shillings/m ). The Government continued to sell large areas of kauri forests to sawmillers who, under no restrictions, took the most effective and economical steps to secure
8118-450: The base of the trunk. On large trees it may pile up to a height of 2 m or more. The kauri has a habit of forming small clumps or patches scattered through mixed forests. Kauri leaves are 3 to 7 cm long and 1 cm broad, tough and leathery in texture, with no midrib; they are arranged in opposite pairs or whorls of three on the stem. The seed cones are globose, 5 to 7 cm diameter, and mature 18 to 20 months after pollination;
8241-406: The border between the former Waitakere and Auckland cities, a border which was first established between Eden County on the Auckland isthmus and Waitemata County in 1876. This border originally existed much earlier than, as the rohe marker between Te Kawerau ā Maki and Tāmaki isthmus iwi. Avondale and Blockhouse Bay are east of the Whau River on the Auckland isthmus , but are included in
8364-464: The central North Island. The outcry over the Warawara was an important stepping stone towards the legal protection of the small percentage of remaining virgin kauri-podocarp forest in New Zealand's Government-owned forests. Although today its use is far more restricted, in the past the size and strength of kauri timber made it a popular wood for construction and ship building , particularly for masts of sailing ships because of its parallel grain and
8487-464: The complete absence of disturbance, kauri tends to become rare as it is excluded by its competitors. Kauri biomass tends to decrease during such times, as more biomass becomes concentrated in angiosperm species like tōwai . Kauri trees also tend to become more randomly distributed in age, with each tree dying at a different point in time, and regeneration gaps becoming rare and sporadic. Over thousands of years these varying regeneration strategies produce
8610-510: The day reached. The name Wai-tākere ("cascading water") originated as a name for a rock at Te Henga / Bethells Beach found at the former mouth of the Waitākere River, which was later applied to the river, Ranges , and West Auckland in general. The name refers to the action of the water striking the rock as the waves came into shore, and became popularised in the early 18th century during Te Raupatu Tihore ("The Stripping Conquest"), when
8733-494: The definition due to their strong historical ties. Towns in southwestern Rodney , such as Helensville , Riverhead , Waimauku , Kumeū and Huapai are also often described as West Auckland. Occasionally a stricter definition of West Auckland is used in reports and scientific literature, which includes just the Henderson-Massey , Waitākere Ranges and Whau local board areas. The traditional Tāmaki Māori names for
8856-498: The development of low-cost housing at Te Atatū, Rānui and Massey . By this time, the area was no longer seen as scattered rural communities, and had developed into satellite suburbs of Auckland. The post-war years saw widespread migration of Māori from rural areas to West Auckland. This happened a second time in the 1970s, as urban Māori communities moved away from the inner suburbs of Auckland to areas such as Te Atatū. In 1980, Hoani Waititi Marae opened in West Auckland, to serve
8979-439: The different forest biomes found in the Waitākere Ranges. The visitor centre is also used as a gallery space, including nature photography, and fibre installations by New Zealand weaver Maureen Lander . West Auckland, New Zealand West Auckland ( Māori : Te Uru o Tāmaki Makaurau or Māori : Tāmaki ki te Hauauru ) is one of the major geographical areas of Auckland , the largest city in New Zealand . Much of
9102-409: The early 1840s as 22 metres in circumference and 24 metres to the first branches. It was recorded as being killed by lightning in that period. Another huge tree, Kairaru , had a girth of 20.1 metres and a columnar trunk free of branches for 30.5 metres as measured by a Crown Lands ranger, Henry Wilson, in 1860. It was on a spur of Mt Tutamoe about 30 km south of Waipoua Forest near Kaihau. It
9225-539: The early 1990s most of the affected area contained a thick covering of native grasses with little or no kauri regeneration). Logging was stopped in fulfillment of an election pledge by the Labour Government of 1972. When the National Party was reelected in 1975, the ban on kauri logging in the Warawara remained in place, but was soon replaced by policies encouraging the logging of giant tōtara and other podocarps in
9348-436: The eastern Kaimai Range . However, its distribution has changed greatly over geological time because of climate change . This is shown in the recent Holocene epoch by its migration southwards after the peak of the last ice age . During this time when frozen ice sheets covered much of the world's continents, kauri was able to survive only in isolated pockets, its main refuge being in the very far north. Radiocarbon dating
9471-551: The expense of cutting and removing it to the mills was typically great due to the difficult terrain where they were located. Probably the most controversial kauri logging decision in the last century was that of the National Government to initiate clear fell logging of the Warawara state forest (North of the Hokianga) in the late 1960s. This created a national outcry as this forest contains the second largest volume of kauri after
9594-633: The first tracks to reopen after track upgrades, in May 2018. The Arataki Visitor Centre is the start point for the Hillary Trail, a multi-day walk through the Waitākere Ranges to Muriwai which opened in January 2010. As of 2023, the full track remains closed due to the effects of Kauri dieback . The centre is also the starting point for the Rangemore Track, and a five-minute educational nature walk, which explores
9717-402: The forest, where they are exposed to the effects of the weather; however, the smaller trees that dominate the main canopy are sheltered both by the emergent trees above and by each other. Left in open areas without protection, these smaller trees are far less capable of regenerating. When there is a disturbance severe enough to favour their regeneration, kauri trees regenerate en masse, producing
9840-402: The form of a narrow cone with branches going out along the length of the trunk . However, as it gains in height, the lowest branches are shed, preventing vines from climbing. By maturity, the top branches form an imposing crown that stands out over all other native trees, dominating the forest canopy . The flaking bark of the kauri tree defends it from parasitic plants, and accumulates around
9963-509: The former site of the Waitakere City Council buildings, and has a roll of 828 students. West Auckland is also home to four single-sex secondary schools: Kelston Boys' High School (745 students) and Kelston Girls' College (503 students), and the state-integrated Catholic schools Liston College and St Dominic's College , which have rolls of 841 and 805 students, respectively. West Auckland has been served by railway since
10086-570: The kauri trees were felled as a part of the kauri logging industry. One plant species is native to West Auckland, Veronica bishopiana , the Waitākere rock koromiko. A number of other plant species are primarily found in coastal West Auckland, including Sophora fulvida , the west coast kōwhai and Veronica obtusata , the coastal hebe. Sophora fulvida is a common sight in West Auckland; other species of kōwhai are not allowed to be planted west of Scenic Drive . The Waitākere Ranges are known for
10209-495: The late 18th and early 19th centuries, Te Kawerau ā Maki were only rarely directly contacted by Europeans, instead primarily receiving European products such as potatoes and pigs through neighbouring Tāmaki Māori tribes. Significant numbers of Te Kawerau ā Maki lost their lives due to influenza and the Musket Wars of the 1820s. After a period of exile from the region, Te Kawerau ā Maki returned to their lands, primarily settling at
10332-546: The late 19th century. The North Auckland Line first opened in 1880, and was extended to Helensville by 1881. The train line is operated as the Western Line , which operates passenger services between Swanson and Britomart in the Auckland city centre . The Northwestern Motorway opened between central Auckland and Te Atatū in 1952, encouraging growth around the western Waitematā Harbour. The Southwestern Motorway , which borders West Auckland, became connected directly to
10455-409: The measurements above were taken in 1971. Kauri is common as a specimen tree in parks and gardens throughout New Zealand, prized for the distinctive look of young trees, its low maintenance once established (although seedlings are frost tender). Kauri dieback was observed in the Waitākere Ranges caused by Phytophthora cinnamomi in the 1950s, again on Great Barrier Island in 1972 linked to
10578-472: The name Crown Lynn , the company developed into the largest pottery in the Southern Hemisphere. In 1963, LynnMall opened, becoming the first American-style shopping mall in New Zealand. It quickly became a major centre for retail in Auckland. The Henderson Borough Council wanted to replicate this success, and in 1968 opened Henderson Square, now known as WestCity Waitakere . In 1975, West Auckland
10701-528: The niche of kauri is differentiated through its interactions with the soil, it also has a separate regeneration 'strategy' compared to its broadleaf neighbours. The relationship is very similar to the podocarp-broadleaf forests further south. Kauri demand much more light and require larger gaps to regenerate than such broadleaf trees as pūriri and kohekohe that show far more shade tolerance . Unlike kauri, these broadleaf species can regenerate in areas where lower levels of light reach ground level, for example from
10824-417: The original kauri survived. By the 1950s this area had decreased to about 1,400 square kilometres in 47 forests depleted of their best kauri. It is estimated that today, there is 4 per cent of uncut forest left in small pockets. Estimates are that around half of the timber was accidentally or deliberately burnt. More than half of the remainder had been exported to Australia, Britain, and other countries, while
10947-483: The peoples (some of which formed the Ngāti Whātua hapū Ngāti Rongo). Hostilities broke out and Ngāti Whātua asked for assistance from Kāwharu , a famed Tainui warrior from Kawhia. Kāwharu's repeated attacks of the Waitākere Ranges settlements became known as Te Raupatu Tīhore, or the stripping conquest. Lasting peace between Te Kawerau ā Maki and Ngāti Whātua was forged by Maki's grandson Te Au o Te Whenua, who fixed
11070-624: The portage linking the Kaipara Harbour in the north to the Waitematā Harbour via the Kaipara River and Kumeū River ; and Te Tōanga Waka , the Whau River portage linking the Waitematā Harbour to the Manukau Harbour in the south. Defensive pā and kāinga (villages) were found close to the portages and the major walking tracks across the area, including at the Opanuku Stream and the Huruhuru Creek. A number of settlements also existed on
11193-442: The region. The west coast was well known for its abundant seafood and productive soil, where crops such as kūmara , taro , hue (calabash/bottle gourd) and aruhe could be grown, and for the diversity of birds, eels, crayfish and berries found in the ranges. Archaeological investigations of middens show evidence of regional trade between different early Māori peoples, including pipi , cockles and mud-snail shells not native to
11316-448: The sea floor. Between 3 and 5 million years ago, tectonic forces uplifted the Waitākere Ranges and central Auckland, while subsiding the Manukau and inner Waitematā harbours. The Waitākere Ranges are the remnants of the eastern slopes of the Waitākere volcano, while the lowlands of suburban West Auckland are formed of Waitemata Group sandstone from the ancient sedimentary basin. Many of
11439-459: The second highest of any forest type recorded anywhere in the world. The estimated total carbon capture is up to nearly 1000 tonnes per hectare. In this capacity, kauri are bettered only by mature Eucalyptus regnans forest, and are far higher than any tropical or boreal forest type yet recorded. It is also conjectured that the process of carbon capture does not reach equilibrium, which along with no need of direct maintenance, makes kauri forests
11562-628: The seed cones disintegrate at maturity to release winged seeds , which are then dispersed by the wind. A single tree produces both male and female seed cones. Fertilisation of the seeds occurs by pollination , which may be driven by the same or another tree's pollen. Agathis australis can attain heights of 40 to 50 metres and trunk diameters big enough to rival Californian sequoias at over 5 metres. The largest kauri trees did not attain as much height or girth at ground level but contain more timber in their cylindrical trunks than comparable Sequoias with their tapering stems. The largest recorded specimen
11685-405: The seed cones of the trees often survive together with the trunk, although when excavated and exposed to the air, these parts undergo rapid deterioration. The quality of the disinterred wood varies. Some is in good shape, comparable to that of newly felled kauri, although often lighter in colour. The colour can be improved by the use of natural wood stains to heighten the details of the grain. After
11808-461: The settler ship Brilliant left Glasgow in 1840. The settlement had collapsed by 1843, due to its remoteness, land rights issues and the death of Symonds, with many residents moving to Onehunga . In 1840 after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi , paramount chief Āpihai Te Kawau made a tuku (strategic gift) of land on the Waitematā Harbour to William Hobson , the first Governor of New Zealand, as
11931-521: The shores of the Manukau Harbour . After establishing a timber mill in 1836, Mitchell drowned only months later, and the land was sold to Captain William Cornwallis Symonds . Symonds formed a company to create a large-scale settlement at Cornwallis focused on logging, trading and shipping, subdividing 220 plots of land in the area. Cornwallis was advertised as idyllic and fertile to Scottish settlers, and after 88 plots of land had been sold,
12054-455: The shores of the Whau River. From 1853, rural West Auckland around Glen Eden and Oratia was developed into orchards. New Lynn developed as a trade centre after 1865 due to the port along the estuarial Whau River, which could only be used at high tide. The North Auckland Line began operating in March 1880, connecting central Auckland to stations at Avondale , New Lynn and Glen Eden . The line
12177-442: The soil layers with the help of rainfall, and release other nutrients trapped in clay such as nitrogen and phosphorus . This leaves these important nutrients unavailable to other trees, as they are washed down into deeper layers. This process is known as podsolization , and changes the soil colour to a dull grey. For a single tree, this leaves an area of leached soil beneath known as a cup podsol ( de ). This leaching process
12300-456: The soils around Titirangi and Laingholm are more sedimentary than the Waitākere Ranges volcanic soil, tōtara was widespread, alongside kohekohe , pūriri , karaka and nīkau palm trees. The Waitākere Ranges are home to many native species of bird, the New Zealand long-tailed bat and Hochstetter's frog , which have been impacted by introduced predatory species including rodents , stoats , weasels , possums and cats. In 2002, Ark in
12423-453: The species as Dammara australis . Agathis is derived from Greek and means 'ball of twine', a reference to the shape of the male cones, which are also known by the botanical term strobili . Australis translates in English to 'southern'. The Māori name is descended from Proto-Polynesian *kauquli , Samoan ebony or Diospyros samoensis . The young plant grows straight upwards and has
12546-480: The stereotype usually involves a macho, working class Pākehā with poor taste, and the mullet haircut. The Westie sub-culture was depicted in the New Zealand television series Outrageous Fortune (2005–2010), with particular attention to the distinctive fashion, musical preferences and interest in cars typical of this social group. Twenty-two million years ago, due to subduction of the Pacific Plate , most of
12669-476: The textile industry, railway sleepers and cross bracing for mines and tunnels. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries Kauri gum (semi-fossilised kauri resin ) was a valuable commodity, particularly for varnish , spurring the development of a gum-digger industry. Today, the kauri is being considered as a long-term carbon sink . This is because estimates of the total carbon content in living above ground biomass and dead biomass of mature kauri forest are
12792-411: The timber, resulting in much waste and destruction. At a sale in 1908 more than 5,000 standing kauri trees, totalling about 20,000,000 superficial feet (47,000 m ), were sold for less than £2 per tree (£2 in 1908 equates to around NZ$ 100 in 2003). It is said that in 1890 the royalty on standing timber fell in some cases to as low as twopence (NZ$ 0.45 in 2003) per 100 superficial feet (8 pence/m ), though
12915-479: The top of slopes to nutrient rich soils below. As nutrients leached are replaced by aqueous nitrates and phosphates from above, the kauri tree is less able to inhibit the growth of strong competitors such as angiosperms. In contrast, the leaching process is only enhanced on higher elevation. In Waipoua Forest this is reflected in higher abundances of kauri on ridge crests, and greater concentrations of its main competitors, such as tarairi , at low elevations. This pattern
13038-432: The urban Māori population of West Auckland. By the mid-2000s, West Auckland had the largest Ngāpuhi population in the country outside of Northland . Similarly, areas such as Rānui and Massey developed as centres for Pasifika New Zealander communities. The New Zealand Brick Tile and Pottery Company diversified and expanded into china production to supply local markets and American troops during World War II . Under
13161-495: The volume productivity than those in natural stands at the same age. Individuals in the same 10 cm diameter class may vary in age by 300 years, and the largest individual on any particular site is often not the oldest. Trees can normally live longer than 600 years. Many individuals probably exceed 1000 years, but there is no conclusive evidence that trees can exceed 2000 years in age. By combining tree ring samples from living kauri, wooden buildings, and preserved swamp wood,
13284-509: The west coast retained the name Te Kawerau ā Maki, while those living at Mahurangi (modern-day Warkworth ) adopted the name Ngāti Manuhiri , and Ngāti Kahu for the people who settled on the North Shore . In the early 1700s, Ngāti Whātua migrated south into the Kaipara area (modern-day Helensville). Initially relations between the iwi were friendly, and many important marriages were made between
13407-404: The western portions of the old Auckland City , such as Ponsonby and Kingsland . The name Auckland was originally given to the township of Auckland (now Auckland city centre ) in 1840 by William Hobson , after patron George Eden, 1st Earl of Auckland . Westie is a term used to describe a sub-culture from West Auckland, acting also as a societal identifier. Similar to the word bogan ,
13530-414: The wide variety of fern species (over 110), as well as native orchids, many of which self-established from seeds carried by winds from the east coast of Australia . The areas of West Auckland close to the Waitematā Harbour, such as Henderson, Te Atatū Peninsula and Whenuapai , were formerly covered in broadleaf forest, predominantly kahikatea , pukatea trees, and a thick growth of nīkau palms . As
13653-643: The year. The tree's retreat can be used as a proxy for temperature changes during this period. While not present in modern days, the Aupōuri Peninsula in the far north was a refuge for kauri, as large quantities of kauri gum were present in the soils. It remains unclear whether kauri recolonised the North Island from a single refuge in the far north or from scattered pockets of isolated stands that managed to survive despite climatic conditions. It spread south through Whangārei , past Dargaville and as far south as Waikato , attaining its peak distribution during
13776-594: The years 3000 BP to 2000 BP. There is some suggestion that it has receded somewhat since then, which may indicate temperatures have declined slightly. During the peak of its movement southwards, it was travelling as fast as 200 metres per year. Its southward spread seems relatively rapid for a tree that can take a millennium to reach complete maturity. This can be explained by its life history pattern. Kauri relies on wind for pollination and seed dispersal , while many other native trees have their seeds carried large distances by frugivores (animals which eat fruit) such as
13899-572: Was 38.0, compared with 27.1% nationally. Although some people chose not to answer the census's question about religious affiliation, 44.0% had no religion, 36.5% were Christian , 0.8% had Māori religious beliefs , 5.8% were Hindu , 3.1% were Muslim , 1.7% were Buddhist and 2.2% had other religions. Of those at least 15 years old, 56,526 (25.4%) people had a bachelor's or higher degree, and 33,417 (15.0%) people had no formal qualifications. 38,691 people (17.4%) earned over $ 70,000 compared to 17.2% nationally. The employment status of those at least 15
14022-777: Was completed in 1910. Further reservoirs were constructed along the different river catchments in the Waitākere Ranges: the Upper Nihotupu Reservoir in 1923; the Huia Reservoir in 1929; and the Lower Nihotupu Reservoir in 1948. The construction of the Waitākere Dam permanently reduced the flow of the Waitākere River, greatly impacting the Te Kawerau ā Maki community at Te Henga / Bethells Beach. Between
14145-643: Was connected to the North Shore when the Upper Harbour Bridge was constructed across the Upper Waitematā Harbour . In the late 1980s, the Crown Lynn factory closed due to competition from overseas imports. West Auckland covers 578.20 km (223.24 sq mi) and had an estimated population of 334,476 as of June 2024, with a population density of 578 inhabitants per square kilometre (1,500 inhabitants per square mile). West Auckland had
14268-561: Was destroyed in the 1880s or 1890s when a series of huge fires swept the area. Other trees far larger than living kauri have been noted in other areas. Rumors of stumps up to 6 metres are sometimes suggested in areas such as the Billygoat Track above the Kauaeranga Valley near Thames. However, there is no good evidence for these (e.g., a documented measurement or a photograph with a person for scale). Given that over 90 per cent of
14391-399: Was extended to Henderson by December, and to Helensville by July 1881. The railway encouraged growth along the corridor between Auckland and Henderson. The West Auckland orchards prospered in the early 1900s after immigrants from Dalmatia (modern-day Croatia ) settled in the area. In 1907, Lebanese New Zealander Assid Abraham Corban developed a vineyard at Henderson. By the 1920s,
14514-495: Was first developed as a way for passengers to more efficiently drive to the airport at Whenuapai, with the first section opening in 1952. By the late 19th century, Auckland City was plagued with seasonal droughts. A number of options were considered to counter this, including the construction of water reservoirs in the Waitākere Ranges. The first of these projects was the Waitākere Dam in the north-eastern Waitākere Ranges, which
14637-626: Was known as The Great Ghost and grew in the mountains at the head of the Tararu Creek , which drains into the Hauraki Gulf just north of the mouth of the Waihou River (Thames). Thames Historian Alastair Isdale says the tree was 8.54 metres in diameter, and 26.83 metres in girth. It was consumed by fire c.1890. A kauri tree at Mill Creek, Mercury Bay , known as Father of the Forests was measured in
14760-661: Was known to have visited the region after arriving in New Zealand, naming many locations along the west coast. He is the namesake of the Karangahape Peninsula at Cornwallis , as well as the ancient walking track linking the peninsula to the central Tāmaki isthmus (part of which became Karangahape Road ). Most Māori settlements in West Auckland centred around the west coast beaches and the Waitākere River valley, especially at Te Henga / Bethells Beach . Instead of living in permanent settlements, Te Kawerau ā Maki and other earlier Tāmaki Māori groups seasonally migrated across
14883-402: Was removed in 2009 due to damage to the wood, and was replaced with a new pou constructed from fallen kauri from the Waitākere Ranges. In late 2017, Te Kawerau ā Maki placed a rāhui on the tracks of the Waitākere Ranges, due to the effects of Kauri dieback on the forest, followed by a formal closure of the tracks by Auckland Council in April 2018. The upper Arataki Nature Trail was one of
15006-458: Was that 117,069 (52.6%) people were employed full-time, 29,490 (13.2%) were part-time, and 9,642 (4.3%) were unemployed. The first schools that began operating in West Auckland were Avondale School, which opened in 1860, a school held in the library of Henderson's Mill in 1873, and the New Lynn School, which opened on the modern site of Kelston Girls' College in 1888. West Auckland has
15129-585: Was the largest standing. Another tree, Kopi, in Omahuta Forest near the standing Hokianga kauri, was the third largest with a height of 56.39 metres (185') and a diameter of 4.19 metres (13.75'). It fell in 1973. Like many ancient kauri both trees were partly hollow. In general over the lifetime of the tree the growth rate tends to increase, reach a maximum, then decline. A 1987 study measured mean annual diameter increments ranging from 1.5 to 4.6 mm per year with an overall average of 2.3 mm per year. This
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