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84-399: Songket or sungkit is a tenun fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Brunei , Indonesia , and Malaysia . It is hand-woven in silk or cotton , and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads . The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between

168-591: A Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity . The term songket derived from the Malay word of sungkit , which means "to hook". It is referred to the method of songket making; to hook and pick a group of threads, and then slip the gold and silver threads in it. Another theory suggested that it was constructed from the combination of two terms; tusuk (prick) and cukit (pick) that combined as sukit , modified further as sukit and finally songket . Some says that

252-613: A convenient night garment or only within the confines of the house. The Tamil-speaking communities, the Sri Lankan Tamils and the Sri Lankan Moors people also call it saaram or chaaram . Statistically, the number of people wearing sarong as their primary public attire is on the decline in Sri Lanka , the reason being that the sarong carries the stigma of being the attire for less-educated lower social classes. However, there

336-472: A cover-up over swimwear . The wrap is often made of a thin, light fabric, often rayon , and may feature decorative fringing on both sides. They may have ties, which are long thin straps of fabric which the wearer can tie together to prevent the wrap from falling down. These wraps are mostly worn by women as beach cover-ups and do not usually resemble traditional Asian or African sarongs in size, pattern or design. Western men who wear male sarongs are influenced by

420-415: A glimpse of the fashion during that period. These statues were decorated elaborately including textiles pattern. The details of kain lower garment of Durga Mahisasuramardini form the 13th-century Singhasari temple near Malang, shows elaborately carved tassels which suggests goldwork decoration. The costume is completed with two sashes draped over the legs carved with bunga bintang or "star flower" motifs,

504-949: A headdress songket. Songket were worn at the courts of Kingdoms in Sumatra especially the Srivijaya , as the source and the origin of Malay culture in Southeast Asia . In the early kingdom age, Songkets are also traditionally worn as an apparel by the Malay royal families in Sumatra such as the Deli Sultanate in Medan , Serdang Sultanate , Palembang Sultanate in Palembang and the recently restored royal house in Jambi and sultanates in Malay Peninsula such as Pattani , Kelantan and Terengganu . The fabric

588-657: A high meaning, historical value, and technique in terms of colors, motifs, and types of materials and threads used and each region has its own characteristics. In addition, Tenun is also one of Indonesia's original cultural heritages that is still maintained and preserved to this day. Tenun fabrics are made in various places in the Indonesian archipelago such as on the islands of Sumatra , Java , Bali and Sulawesi , where each region has its own uniqueness and characteristics in terms of motifs and colors. These differences are caused by geographical location, beliefs, customs and

672-518: A leader are the main things". The most popular and sacred motif for the Minangkabau community is the Pucuk Rebung motif or in the local language called Pucuak Rabuang symbolizing a useful life throughout. It all appears in the evolution of bamboo shoots ( Bambu muda ) to aging which reflects the process of human life towards a useful person. There are two categories of songket weaving equipments;

756-531: A lot of gifts, consists of silk "woven with floral motifs made of gold threads ", ivories, pearls, silk of various colours, fragrant sandalwood , cotton clothes of various colours, turtle shells, betel nut preparation kit , kris dagger with exquisite hilt made of rhino horn and gold, rattan mat with the image of white cockatoo , and a small model of house made of sandalwood adorned with valuable ornaments. Studies of Javanese statues dated from Indonesian Hindu-Buddhist period between 8th to 15th centuries provides

840-459: A name and meaning, namely about the journey of Minangkabau culture and society. Songket Minangkabau motifs are displayed in the form of natural symbols, especially plants, which are rich in explicit and implied meanings. Songket motifs are often named after plants, animals or objects in the natural environment. For example, Bungo Malur , Kudo-Kudo , Balapak Gadang , Ranggo Patai Pucuak , Pucuak , Pucuak kelapa , and many more. The decorative motifs on

924-464: A parade and exhibition with participants from numbers of songket studios across West Sumatra. The carnival, held on 28 August 2015, was recorded in the Indonesian Museum of Records for the most people wearing songket at a same time, with 17,290 people wearing Silungkang songket during the event. Several exhibitions has been held to preserve and promote the traditional art of songket making, such as

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1008-516: A pattern that continues today in songket design. The precision of stone carved textile suggests the designs are unlikely an invention of sculptor's imagination, and more likely to have replicated a cloth that existed at the time. Various Chinese and Arab accounts mentioned the presence of textiles produced within the region and emphasized the prevalence of weaving in the Malay Peninsula. According to Kelantan tradition this weaving technique came from

1092-518: A required garment for brides and grooms for their weddings, as in the traditional wedding costumes of Palembangese , Minangkabau and Balinese people . In Indonesian tradition, songket has become a marker of social status. Traditionally a certain songket motif is reserved for particular social status. For example in Palembang songket tradition, the lepus motifs were originally reserved only for bangsawan (royalty, nobles or aristocrats). Indeed songket

1176-525: A simple stripe and box pattern), kain sarung , kain tenun (woven sarong), kain batik (sarong with batik motifs and design, normally worn by women and paired with a kebaya or Baju Kurung ) or kain samping or sampin (specialized sarong worn by men with Baju Melayu ). In the Malaysian state of Sarawak , it is called sabok (for men) and tapeh (for women). Since 2017, special celebrations around Malaysia Day are held to encourage

1260-416: A tube. One steps into this tube, brings the upper edge above the level of the navel (the hem should be level with the ankles), positions the kepala at the center of the back, and folds in the excess fabric from both sides to the front center, where they overlap and secure the sarong by rolling the upper hem down over itself. Malay men wear sarongs woven in a check pattern, while women wear sarongs dyed in

1344-470: A type of tree that is hard and has long wood fibers, then the tree is skinned, then the wood fiber is soaked in water to make it soft. Then use a bat in the form of a stone to shape the bark into cloth. The remnants of the tradition of making this kind of cloth are still found in the area of Central Sulawesi called Fuya and in Papua called Capo . In Old Javanese inscriptions, terms can be found that describe

1428-475: A variety of materials such as cotton, polyester or silk. Indonesian women wear traditional costumes called kebaya as upper garments, while for lower garments they wear sarongs dyed in the batik method, with flower motifs and in brighter colors. However, in Javanese culture, the wearing of batik sarungs is not restricted to women on formal occasions such as weddings. In 2019, in an effort to promote and popularize

1512-787: A way that the garment does not reach over one's ankles. Other izaars , often imported from Bangladesh, are the traditional clothing of Arab fishermen of the Persian Gulf , the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea . It was the traditional garment for men before the introduction of pant-like pajamas and kaftans during the Turkish and European colonial periods. Tube-stitched, as well as open sarongs, are both worn, even informal dishdasha -wearing countries, as casual sleepwear and at home. Sarongs, very similar to those of South-East Asia and completely different from

1596-577: A wealthy 7th to 13th-century maritime trading empire based on Sumatra . Palembang and Minangkabau Pandai Sikek area are the best and the most famous songket producers in Indonesia . According to a Palembang folk tradition that has been narrated for generations, the origin of songket came from the Chinese traders who brought silk threads, while the Indian or Middle Eastern traders brought gold threads. Subsequently,

1680-628: Is Songket Pandai Sikek and Songket Silungkang . The names of the two songkets are taken from the name of the place where this songket comes from, namely Pandai Sikek in Tanah Datar and Silungkang in Sawahlunto. Songket Minangkabau is a unique traditional art form. This weaving art is quite complicated and requires precision and perseverance in the weaving process. In addition, the ornaments or motifs of Minangkabau songket are not just decorations or ornaments. Minangkabau songket motifs or decorations each have

1764-689: Is a popular spot to shop Balinese songket, as it offers wide collection of this traditional fabrics. While in the neighboring island of Lombok , the Sukarara village in Jonggat district, Central Lombok regency, is also famous for songket making. In this village, learning how to weave a good songket is an obligation for the Sasak women. Weaving songket is usually done by women during their spare time, and subsequently this traditional skill has enabled them to earn money for their family. In Malaysia production area included

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1848-527: Is a trend toward adopting the sarong as a fashionable garment or as a formal garment worn with national pride, only on special occasions. Political and social leaders of Sri Lanka who want to portray their humility and closeness to the common person and their nationalism, choose a variation of the sarong nicknamed the "national" as their public attire. Sarongs are ubiquitous in Somalia and the Muslim -inhabited areas of

1932-424: Is called songket janda pengantin (widow bride songket). Today, songket are usually made from affordable materials, such as using artificial gold threads made of nylon instead of pure gold threads . Nevertheless, there are few rare songket that is actually made from real gold threads. These are precious textiles that are held as pusaka or heirloom passed down for generations within a family. Today, songket

2016-420: Is employed as the social marker of the wearer, even as far as to inform the marital status of the wearer. In old Palembang, widows wore outstanding selendang (shoulder cloth) songket to disclose their social and marital status. There are two kinds of specific songket motifs for widows; those for widows eligible for remarriage is called songket janda berias (dress up widow songket), and those for widow brides

2100-469: Is even mandated as part of the ceremonial court dress of Bruneian royalty since the time of Omar Ali Saifuddien III . Traditionally women are the weavers of songket, however in this modern time men also are known to weave it as well. Songket is known in many names in vernacular Indonesian languages . Other than in Sumatra and Malay peninsula, it is also commonly known as songket in Bali and Java . While it

2184-421: Is from Langkasuka kingdom , an ancient kingdom dressed in the Malay Peninsula. It's King dressed ‘rose-colored cloth with gold flowers’, which could have been a songket of some kind, as red is traditional color of Songket. Much documentation is sketchy about the origins of the songket but it is most likely that songket weaving was brought to Peninsular Malaysia through intermarriages between royal families. This

2268-559: Is inseparable from the lives of the people who wear it during important events such as births, marriages, and death. Palembang songket recognises several types of songket patterns; they are lepus, tretes, limar, tawur, bungo , and rumpak songkets. Examples of Palembang songket motifs are naga besaung, pucuk rebung, biji pare, bintang berante, bintang kayu apuy, bungo mawar, bungo melati, bungo cino, bungo jepang, bungo intan, bungo pacik, cantik manis, lepus berakam, pulir, nampan perak, tabur limar and tigo negeri . In Indonesia , songket

2352-779: Is known as songke in Manggarai , Flores , and Bima in Sumbawa . The Karo Batak of North Sumatra , call it jongkit . People in Ternate , Maluku, call it suje , while the Buginese in South Sulawesi call it subbi’ and arekare’ and the Iban Dayak in West Kalimantan and Sarawak call it pilih or pileh . Songket weaving traditions at first, historically associated with Srivijaya empire ,

2436-456: Is known by different names. The American public is most familiar with the sarong for the dozens of films set in the South Seas, most of them romantic dramas made in the 1930s and 1940s. Dorothy Lamour is by far the actress most linked with the garment, which was designed by Edith Head . Lamour starred in multiple films of this genre, starting with The Hurricane in 1937. In fact, Lamour

2520-558: Is locally woven. This is also worn in northern Yemen. However, the tribal groups in Yemen each have their own design for their ṣārūn , the latter of which may include tassels and fringes. It is thought that this tribal ṣārūn resembles the original izaar as worn on the Arabian Peninsula since pre-Islamic times such as the Shendyt . They are generally worn open and unstitched in such

2604-628: Is mostly worn in traditional settings as traditional costumes for weddings or any traditional ceremonies. Several efforts has been conducted to promote songket as a popular fabric for fashion, either locally and abroad. During the Dutch colonial era, West Sumatran songket were exhibited in the Netherlands. The Sawahlunto Songket Carnival was held in Sawahlunto , West Sumatra in August 2015. The songket carnival featured

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2688-701: Is produced in Sumatra , Kalimantan , Bali , Sulawesi , Lombok and Sumbawa . In Sumatra the famous songket production centers is in Minangkabau Pandai Sikek in Tanah Datar Regency, and Koto Gadang in Agam Regency, also Silungkang area in Sawahlunto , West Sumatra, Jambi City , Jambi and Palembang , South Sumatra. In Bali , songket production villages can be found in Klungkung regency, especially at Sidemen and Gelgel village. The Klungkung Market

2772-482: Is that they tend to be quite colorful; black macawiis are rare. Macawiis in Somalia are worn around the waist and folded several times over to secure their position. They are typically sold pre-sewn as one long circular stretch of cloth, though some vendors offer to sew them as a value-added service. In Indonesia the sarong is generally known as a kain sarung ('sarong cloth') except for in Bali where it carries

2856-507: Is the standard spelling. Sarongs are known as many different names across Asia, including Javanese sarung ( ꦱꦫꦸꦁ ), Tamil saram ( சாரம் ), Arabic ṣārūn ( صارون ); and Sinhala sarama ( සරම ). In West Africa, the word srong or sorong is found in the Akan language, and this word means "the highest point", in reference to the garment being fastened at the very top in order to secure it. Sarong or sarung denotes

2940-528: Is the story of Sang Kuriang, an important character in the story, Dayang Sumbi, whose daily job is weaving. The manufacture of clothing in the past can be traced to the relief Perempuan menenun ("women are weaving") carved on a 14th-century stone pedestal from the Trowulan area, now stored in the Trowulan Museum , East Java . In South Sumatra , songket weaving has existed since the seventh century. Based on

3024-458: Is typically longer than the men's lungi. The term sarong is an loanword from Malay sarong ( Jawi : ساروڠ ‎ , old spelling: سارڠ ‎), meaning 'to cover' or 'to sheath'. It was first used in 1834 referring to the skirt-like garment of the Malays . Sarong is also the informal spelling used in both colloquial Indonesian and Malaysian whereas sarung ( [ˈsaruŋ] )

3108-619: Is woven cloth with checkered motifs, usually used by Muslim men for salah prayer. This kind of sarong cloth is stitched together to create a tubular skirt-like lower garment. In Bali, sarongs are not stitched together as a tube, but remain as a piece of cloth to wrap around the waist and secured with a knot. Other than common checkered motifs, other woven or print methods might be employed, such as batik , ikat , songket , and other kinds of tenun traditional woven clothes. Sarongs are used by various ethnic groups in Indonesia . They are made from

3192-632: The Horn of Africa . Although nomadic and urban Somali men have worn them for centuries in the form of a plain white skirt , the colorful macawiis (ma'awiis) sarong, which is the most popular form of the garment in the region. Before the 1940s, most macawiis were made of cotton . However, since the industrialization of the market, they now come in many fabrics and combinations thereof, including polyester , nylon and silk . Designs vary greatly and range from checkered square motifs with watermarked diamonds and plaid to simple geometric lines. The one constant

3276-533: The Indian subcontinent . (In the Indian subcontinent, excluding Sri Lanka, sarongs are sometimes known as mundu or lungi .) Sarongs known under a variety of local names are traditionally worn by the people of Yemen and elsewhere on the Arabian Peninsula . Local names for the garment include ṣārūn , fūṭah , izaar , wizār , maqtab and maʿwaz (pl. maʿāwiz ). In Hadhramout , Yemen sarongs are called Saroon ( Arabic : صارون ṣārūn ) in

3360-497: The Indonesian Ministry of Education and Culture . They are songket traditions of Palembang and Sambas , both appointed in 2013; Pandai Sikek songket of West Sumatra , appointed in 2014; songket tradition of Beratan , Bali appointed in 2018; and Silungkang songket tradition of West Sumatra, appointed in 2019. In 2021, UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) officially recognized Songket as

3444-570: The Minangkabau tradition . Songket is closely related to the Minangkabau community because it has been widely used as a material for traditional clothing and other traditional core crafts. There are various types of Minangkabau songket motifs and philosophies, each motif passed down from generation to generation for use in the Pepatih custom. The history of the Songket Minangkabau itself comes from

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3528-718: The Ministry of Education, Culture, Research, and Technology of Republic Indonesia as integral part of the National Intangible Cultural Heritage of Indonesia. The technique of weaving cloth was brought to Insular Southeast Asia (ISEA) as a result of the Austronesian expansion . The word tenun goes back the reconstructed Proto-Austronesian form *tenun 'to weave (cloth)', which is widely attested in Taiwan and ISEA. Tenun fabrics are thought to have existed since

3612-675: The Neolithic period . This has been proven by the discovery of prehistoric objects, such as woven stamps, tools for spinning , and materials that are clearly woven on cloth made of cotton, which are more than 3,000 years old at the East Sumba site, Gunung wingko , Yogyakarta , Gilimanuk and Melolo . In the Neolithic period, the materials for making clothes were still very simple, such as fibers , leaves , bark , animal skins , and plant roots . The manufacture of clothes from bark must choose

3696-565: The Srivijaya which was then developed through the Sumatran kingdom until it finally entered the Minang realm. Songket was created as a means of expression because the Minang people in ancient times could not write and finally they also expressed their feelings into songket so that each songket has a different meaning. As a characteristic of cloth in Minangkabau, the famous songket cloth in West Sumatra

3780-670: The batik method. However, in Javanese culture , the wearing of batik sarongs is common and not restricted to a particular gender; sometimes they are also worn on formal occasions such as weddings. The sarong is common wear for women in formal settings with a kebaya blouse. Malay men wear sarongs in public only when attending Friday prayers at the mosque , but sarongs remain very common casual wear at home for men of all ethnicities and religions in Brunei , Indonesia , Philippines , Cambodia , Malaysia , Singapore , Sri Lanka , and much of

3864-405: The sari . Sarongs are very common in Sri Lanka and worn only by men. (A similar garment is worn by women. However, the women's garment is called redda , which is a wrap-around skirt.) It is the standard garment for most men in rural and even some urban communities. However, most men of upper social classes (whose public attire is usually trousers) wear the sarong only for ceremonial purposes, as

3948-511: The 16th to 19th centuries, and limited only for the upper class of the society. After the collapse of the sultanate, songket began to spread among non-aristocrats. Songket as king's dress was also mentioned by Abdullah bin Abdul Kadir writings in 1849. Songket is traditionally considered an exquisite, luxurious and prestigious traditional fabric, only worn for special occasions, religious festivals, and traditional social functions. It has become

4032-581: The 8th century CE, when Srivijaya was based in Palembang. This statue was found at the Bumiayu Temple Archaeological Site which is located on the downstream bank of Lematang River which empties into Musi River , precisely in Tanah Abang District, Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency approximately 120 km to the west of Palembang City. In Indonesia , five songket traditions are recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage by

4116-696: The Indian subcontinent (excluding Sri Lanka) are widespread – in the state of Manipur , where they are called phanek and mekhela in Assam which are very similar to traditional attire of other South-East Asian nations. In the South Indian states of Kerala , they are called mundu (if fully white or fully black) and lungi or kaili if coloured, and in Tamil Nadu , they are called kaili or saaram or vetti or lungi and are usually worn at home. A standard lungi measures 2.12 by 1.2 metres. Unlike

4200-506: The Scottish kilt or lavalava within the Polynesian or Samoan culture. Typically sarongs are worn by men when they are at home, the beach, by the pool, or on a cruise. Numerous tying methods exist to hold a sarong to the wearer's body. In some cases, these techniques customarily differ according to the sex of wearer. If a sarong has ties, they may be used to hold it in place. Sarong ties give

4284-585: The analysis conducted on the statues at the Bumiayu temple , it can be seen that songket has been worn by the people of South Sumatra since the seventh century AD, when Srivijaya was based in Palembang. This statue was found at the Bumiayu Temple Archaeological Site which is located on the downstream bank of Lematang River which empties into Musi River, precisely in Tanah Abang District, Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir district approximately 120 kilometres (75 mi) to

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4368-514: The ballast is shaped like a top made of wood or terracotta . In western Indonesia (Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok) there is another way to make yarn using "Antih," this tool consists of a wide wheel that can be turned along with a dial ( ontel ) to turn the wheel . The manufacture of dyes in the past consisted of two colors blue and red. The blue color is obtained from indigo or Mirinda Citrifonela or noni. In addition there are dyes from other plants such as Achiote . Sarong The unisex sarong

4452-478: The brightly colored Southeast Asian sarongs, the Kerala variety (the mundu ) is more often plain white and is worn for ceremonial or religious purposes. In Kerala, the brightly coloured sarongs are called kaily and the white ones are called mundu . The more formal, all-white dhoti is worn for formal and religious occasions. While there are dresses based on the mundu which can be worn by women, they more commonly wear

4536-424: The cotton threads were run along heated liquid gold, coating the cotton and creating gold thread. However today because the scarcity and the expensiveness of real gold threads, imitation gold or silver threads are commonly used instead. The songket technique itself involves the insertion of decorative threads in between the wefts as they are woven into the warp, which is fixed to the loom. They are inserted as part of

4620-458: The east coast of the Malay Peninsula especially in the city of Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu and the Kota Bharu, Kelantan . Tenun Tenun is an artful Indonesian technique of making a fabric by weaving different colours of threads. Tenun belongs to one of the typical Indonesian cultural arts produced by hand skills using traditional looms . The word Tenun itself has

4704-580: The edge of the songket cloth are also named, such as Bungo Tanjung , Lintahu Ayahah , Bareh Diatua , Ula Gerang , and others. Like the motifs of Batik which are full of meaning, the Silungkang songket motifs are also studded with philosophy. The motif of Kaluak Paku (the curve of a young fern shoot) means "Before correcting others, we should look inside ourselves first". While the Ilalang Rabah motif (falling down) means "Vigilance, prudence and accuracy of

4788-497: The existence of songket can be seen on the lepus motifs found on the vest worn by Figure 1 at the Bumiayu temple complex. The use of lepus motif shows the continuity of that motif that has been around since the 9th century. The description of textiles reminiscent of songket can be found in 10th century Chinese source from Song dynasty . According to this Song chronicle, in 992 the envoy from She-po (Java) arrived in Chinese court bearing

4872-485: The existence of weaving in the past. On the Karang Tengah inscription dated 847, there is the inscription "white hlai 1 (one) kalambi" which means one piece of white cloth and clothes. In the "Baru" inscription in 1034 AD the word Pawdikan means batik or weaver. In the "Tebu" inscription in 1021 AD and the inscription from Singhasari in 929 AD there is the term "makapas" or cotton . In folklore that has to do with weaving

4956-518: The gold mines are located in Sumatra hinterland; Jambi and Minangkabau Highlands . Although gold threads were found buried in the Srivijaya ruins in Sumatra, along with unpolished rubies and pieces of gold plate, there is no corroborating evidence that the local weavers used gold threads as early as 7th century to early 8th century. Based on archaeological data, it can be seen that songket has been known by

5040-527: The historical factors of the Srivijaya Empire, trade, and mixed marriages, Songket has also become popular in the Maritime Southeast Asia region, especially in countries around Indonesia such as Brunei , Malaysia , and Singapore . Based on the analysis conducted on the statues at the Bumiayu temple , South Sumatra, it can be seen that songket has been worn by the people of South Sumatra since

5124-564: The interior and the coastal region. In Oman , sarongs are called wizār and are often white in color, similar to the Keralan mundu of the Indian subcontinent and it is usually worn under the Thawb . In Saudi Arabia , sarongs are known as izaar . Designs can be checkered or striped as well floral or arabesque , but double plaid (i.e., a vertical section of the izār with a different plaid pattern) designs from Indonesia are also very popular. In southwestern Saudi Arabia, tribal groups have their own style of unstitched izaar , which

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5208-422: The lower garment worn by Southeast Asian men and women. This consists of a length of fabric about a yard (0.91 m) wide and two-and-a-half yards (2.3 m) long. In the center of this sheet, across the narrower width, a panel of contrasting color or pattern about one foot wide is woven or dyed into the fabric, which is known as the kepala or "head" of the sarong. This sheet is stitched at the narrower edges to form

5292-441: The main weaving equipment made from wooden or bamboo frame; and the supporting equipment which includes thread stretching tool, motif making tool, thread inserting and picking tools. The materials for making songket consist of cotton or silk threads or other fibers as the base fabric and decoration threads made from golden, silver or silk threads. It is believed that in ancient times, real gold threads were used to create songket;

5376-415: The name kamben , possibly etymologically related to kemben (Javanese torso wrap). The sarung or sarong is often described as an Indonesian skirt; it is a large tube or length of fabric, often wrapped around the waist and worn by men and women throughout much of the Indonesian archipelago. The sarong is also commonly described as a unisex tubular skirt. The most common design of the Indonesian sarong

5460-477: The north, somewhere in the Cambodia - Siam region and expanded south into Pattani , and finally reach the Malay court of Kelantan and Terengganu as early as the 16th century. The weaving of songket continues as a small cottage industry on the outskirts of Kota Bharu and Terengganu. However, Terengganu weavers believe that songket weaving technique was introduced to Malaysia from India through Sumatra 's Palembang and Jambi where it probably originated during

5544-450: The past, namely Palembang , which located in South Sumatra , Indonesia. Besides Palembang, several areas in Sumatra are also the best-in-class Songket producing locations, which include areas in Minangkabau or West Sumatra such as Pandai Sikek, Silungkang, Koto Gadang, and Padang. Outside of Sumatra, songket is also produced by regions such as Bali , Lombok , Sambas , Sumba , Makassar , Sulawesi , and other areas in Indonesia. Due to

5628-400: The people of South Sumatra between the 8th to the 9th century CE, as seen in ancient statues cloths motifs from the site of the Bumiayu temple complex in Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency , South Sumatra Province, Indonesia. At that time the use of songket was reserved only for the nobility, as seen from the statues which were probably the deified personification of a king. The evidence for

5712-469: The plain weave base cloth in certain motifs, creating a shimmering effect of golden pattern against darker plain background. Songket weaving is traditionally done as a part-time job by young girls and older women in between their daily domestic chores. The complicated process of songket making is believed to cultivate virtues, as it reflects the values of diligence, carefulness and patience. There are hundreds of songket motifs. In Palembang tradition, songket

5796-465: The sarong among its people, the government encouraged Indonesians to wear the sarong in public at least once a month. President Joko Widodo said the sarong is a significant element of Indonesian culture and that wearing it will be a sign of appreciation for sarong craftsmen. In Malaysia , the sarong is known as a kain . The word kain is paired with specific words to specify its type and function such as kain pelikat (a type of sarong with

5880-411: The silk or cotton weft (latitudinal) threads in a technique called supplementary weft weaving technique. Songket is often associated with the Srivijaya Empire as the origin of the songket tradition, several types of popular Songket can not be separated from locations that were once under Srivijaya rule, one of the dominant locations which is also believed to be the capital of the Srivijaya Empire in

5964-404: The songket exhibition held in 2015 by Jakarta Textile Museum , which showcased around 100 pieces of songket from various Indonesian provinces. Today, songket has become a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers who draw ideas from this traditional art. Songket Minangkabau is a traditional songket woven cloth from West Sumatra that is an important part of cultural identity in

6048-462: The specific ethnic group that wove them. Among men, the skirt is usually drawn up and tied at the waist (like a dhoti ), forming a trouser-like clothing known as a salawal . They can also serve as shawls or blankets. They were paired with close-fitting shirts or jackets known as baro or bayu . Among the Maranao people , the malong is featured in the folk dance kapa malong malong which shows

6132-421: The surrounding natural conditions including flora and fauna, each region has certain differences and uniqueness as well as contacts or relationships between regions, from the many types of Tenun , ikat and songket are the most famous, even tenun ikat is well known and popular in many countries. Since 2010, various Tenun traditions practiced throughout Indonesia officially recognized and regarded by

6216-469: The time of Srivijaya (7th to 11th century). Nevertheless, Zani Bin Ismail put forth the argument that the origins of songket can be traced to China and subsequently spread to Indochina, including Cambodia and Thailand. His assertion was based on the similarities observed in the handweaving looms of Terengganu, Cambodia, and Thailand. Another possible of origin of songket based on Liang dynasty record (502-557)

6300-542: The various ways that the malong can be utilized. During the Spanish colonial era , the tapis was worn over a longer skirt ( saya or falda ) due to the shortness of the tapis being deemed too immodest by the Spanish clergy to be worn alone. It evolved over time to become part of the traditional Filipino dress for women, the baro't saya . In North and South America as well as Europe, hip wraps are worn as beach wear or as

6384-463: The wearer a little extra hold and security. If no ties exist, a pin may be used, the fabric may be tightly tucked under itself in layers, the corners of the main sheet may be wrapped around the body and knotted, or a belt may be used to hold the sarong in place. The basic garment known in English most often as a sarong , sewn or unsewn, has analogs in many regions, where it shows variations in style and

6468-755: The wearing of sarong in public spaces as well as taking the railway system called the Keretapi Sarong ('Sarong Train'). Sarongs from the Philippines are generally known as tapis in Luzon , alampay in the Cordilleran highlands, patadyong in the islands of Visayas and Sulu , and malong in Mindanao . They are worn by both men and women and can be rectangular or tube-like. They can be knee-length or ankle-length and come in various colors that are usually unique to

6552-439: The weaving process, but not necessary in the making of the cloth. There are four types of supplementary weft weaving technique : continuous, discontinuous, inlaid and wrapped. Songket weaving is done in two stages, weaving the basic cloth with even or plain weaving and weaving the decoration inserted into basic cloth, this method is called "inlay weaving system". The shining gold, silver or silk threads were inserted and woven into

6636-405: The west of Palembang City. Tenun techniques can be divided into two major groups, namely techniques in making cloth and techniques for making decorations . In addition, there are two other things that are very important in making tenun, namely preparing the manufacture of yarn and making dyes. Traditionally, yarn is made using weights that are rotated with the fingers ( Javanese : diplintir ),

6720-453: The women's resistance movement in Manipur, North-East India . The 2020 Indonesian film Tarung Sarung depicts a martial arts tradition where combatants are joined together by the garment. In Singapore, the term Sarong Party Girl refers to a local single Singaporean woman especially of Chinese ethnicity who favor socializing and having relationships with expatriate Caucasian men rather than

6804-610: The word songket was derived from songka , a Palembang cap in which gold threads was first woven. The earliest confirmable written proof of this clothing in Malay texts always mentioned sungkit instead of songket , for example the Hikayat Aceh of 1620s and Hikayat Banjar of 1660s. The Malay word menyongket means ‘to embroider with gold or silver threads’. Songket is a luxury product traditionally worn during ceremonial occasions as sarong , shoulder cloths or head ties and tanjak ,

6888-439: The woven combination has become the exquisitely shimmering golden songket. It associated with areas of Malay settlement in Sumatra , and the production techniques could have been introduced by Indian or Arab merchants. Songket is a luxurious textile that required some amount of real gold leaves and gold threads to be hand-woven into exquisite fabrics, surely it has become a symbol of luxury and social status. Historically

6972-473: Was a common occurrence in the 15th century for sealing strategic alliances. Production was located in politically significant kingdoms because of the high cost of materials; the gold thread used was originally wound with real gold leaf . The use of songket vest with lepus motif as described in the statue of the Bumiayu temple, was also popular during the Islamic Palembang Sultanate period from

7056-767: Was nicknamed "The Sarong Girl" by the press and even wore a sarong on occasion in more traditional films. Among the other actresses to don the sarong for film roles are Maria Montez , Gilda Gray , Myrna Loy , Gene Tierney , Frances Farmer and Movita . Male stars who wore the manly sarongs on film include Jon Hall , Ray Milland , Tyrone Power , Robert Preston and Sabu Dastagir , as well as Ralph Fiennes in The Constant Gardener and Pierce Brosnan in The Thomas Crown Affair . The 2005 documentary film Soldiers in Sarong , directed by Lokendra Arambam, depicts

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