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Marie Louise Diadem

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Turquoise is an opaque , blue-to-green mineral that is a hydrous phosphate of copper and aluminium , with the chemical formula Cu Al 6 ( PO 4 ) 4 ( OH ) 8 ·4 H 2 O . It is rare and valuable in finer grades and has been prized as a gemstone for millennia due to its hue.

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134-521: The Marie Louise Diadem is a diamond and turquoise diadem on permanent display at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C.. It is named for Marie Louise of Austria , the wife of Emperor Napoleon of France . The design of the diadem's shell is very typical of Marie-Étienne Nitot 's work from the period. A closed circle in shape, the diadem is left-right symmetrical, broadest in

268-507: A human skull as their base), knives , and shields . Natural resins , bitumen and wax were used to bond the turquoise to the objects' base material; this was usually wood , but bone and shell were also used. Like the Aztecs, the Pueblo , Navajo and Apache tribes cherished turquoise for its amuletic use; the latter tribe believe the stone to afford the archer dead aim. In Navajo culture it

402-466: A scarab motif, accompanied by carnelian , lapis lazuli , and in later pieces, coloured glass . Turquoise, associated with the goddess Hathor , was so liked by the Ancient Egyptians that it became (arguably ) the first gemstone to be imitated, the fair structure created by an artificial glazed ceramic product known as faience . The French conducted archaeological excavations of Egypt from

536-454: A 75% interest in the magazine with the remaining 25% held by Miller. Both men retained their holdings until their deaths. Miller served as secretary-treasurer of the magazine and managed the business side of the operation. Mitchell, a 37-year-old illustrator who used a $ 10,000 inheritance to invest in the weekly magazine, served as its publisher. He also created the first Life name-plate with cupids as mascots and later on, drew its masthead of

670-482: A binder used, meaning it is best described as a simulant rather than a synthetic). Gilson turquoise is made in both a uniform colour and with black "spiderweb matrix" veining not unlike the natural Nevada material. The most common imitation of turquoise encountered today is dyed howlite and magnesite , both white in their natural states, and the former also having natural (and convincing) black veining similar to that of turquoise. Dyed chalcedony , jasper , and marble

804-472: A bringer of good fortune or a talisman. The oldest evidence for this claim was found in Ancient Egypt , where grave furnishings with turquoise inlay were discovered, dating from approximately 3000 BCE. In the ancient Persian Empire , the sky-blue gemstones were earlier worn round the neck or wrist as protection against unnatural death. If they changed colour, the wearer was thought to have reason to fear

938-581: A campaign to push the U.S. into the war. Gibson drew the Kaiser as a bloody madman, insulting Uncle Sam , sneering at crippled soldiers, and shooting Red Cross nurses. Following Mitchell's death in 1918, Gibson bought the magazine for $ 1 million. A little more than three years after purchasing Life , Gibson quit and turned the property over to publisher Clair Maxwell and treasurer Henry Richter. In 1920, Gibson had selected former Vanity Fair staffer Robert E. Sherwood as editor. A WWI veteran and member of

1072-945: A decline in the Roman Catholic Church 's influence which allowed the use of turquoise in secular jewellery. It was apparently unknown in India until the Mughal period, and unknown in Japan until the 18th century. A common belief shared by many of these civilizations held that turquoise possessed certain prophylactic qualities; it was thought to change colour with the wearer's health and protect him or her from untoward forces. The Aztecs viewed turquoise as an embodiment of fire and gave it properties such as heat and smokiness. They inlaid turquoise, together with gold , quartz , malachite , jet , jade , coral , and shells , into provocative (and presumably ceremonial ) mosaic objects such as masks (some with

1206-455: A distracted world that does not know which way to turn nor what will happen to it next. A wonderful time for a new voice to make a noise that needs to be heard! In 1936, publisher Henry Luce purchased Life magazine for US$ 92,000 ($ 2.02 million in 2023) because he wanted the name for his company, Time Inc. , to use. Time Inc. sold Life 's subscription list, features, and goodwill to Judge . Convinced that pictures could tell

1340-558: A dog outside his kennel howling at the Moon. Encouraged by a publisher, also an artist, Gibson was joined at Life by illustrators Palmer Cox , creator of the Brownie , A. B. Frost , Oliver Herford , and E. W. Kemble . Life ' s literary roster included John Kendrick Bangs , James Whitcomb Riley , and Brander Matthews . Mitchell was accused of anti-Semitism at a time of high rates of immigration to New York of Eastern European Jews . When

1474-447: A general-interest and humour publication, it featured contributions from many important writers, illustrators and cartoonists of its time including Charles Dana Gibson and Norman Rockwell . Henry Luce purchased the magazine in 1936 and with this the publication was relaunched, becoming the first all-photographic American news magazine. Its role in the history of photojournalism is considered one of its most important contributions to

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1608-402: A heated probe may give rise to the pungent smell so indicative of plastic. Differences in specific gravity , refractive index , light absorption (as evident in a material's absorption spectrum ), and other physical and optical properties are also considered as means of separation. Turquoise is treated to enhance both its colour and durability (increased hardness and decreased porosity ). As

1742-419: A historical perspective, are Serabit el-Khadim and Wadi Maghareh , believed to be among the oldest of known mines. The former mine is situated about 4 kilometres from an ancient temple dedicated to the deity Hathor . The turquoise is found in sandstone that is, or was originally, overlain by basalt . Copper and iron workings are present in the area. Large-scale turquoise mining is not profitable today, but

1876-451: A knight leveling his lance at the posterior of a fleeing devil. Then he took advantage of a new printing process using zinc-coated plates, which improved the reproduction of his illustrations and artwork. This edge helped because Life faced stiff competition from the best-selling humor magazines Judge and Puck , which were already established and successful. Edward Sandford Martin was brought on as Life ' s first literary editor;

2010-431: A maximum Mohs hardness of just under 6, or slightly more than window glass . Characteristically a cryptocrystalline mineral, turquoise almost never forms single crystals , and all of its properties are highly variable. X-ray diffraction testing shows its crystal system to be triclinic . With lower hardness comes greater porosity . The lustre of turquoise is typically waxy to subvitreous, and its transparency

2144-402: A minimum of promotion, these issues sold between 500,000 and 1 million copies at cover prices of up to $ 2. Beginning with an October 1978 issue, Life was published as a monthly, with a new, modified logo. Although it remained a familiar red rectangle with the white type, the new version was larger, the lettering was closer together and the box surrounding it was smaller. Life continued for

2278-432: A minor source of turquoise for 3,000 years or more. Gem-quality material, in the form of compact nodules, is found in the fractured, silicified limestone of Yunxian and Zhushan , Hubei province. Additionally, Marco Polo reported turquoise found in present-day Sichuan . Most Chinese material is exported, but a few carvings worked in a manner similar to jade exist. In Tibet , gem-quality deposits purportedly exist in

2412-553: A mix of rose-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds. The band that forms the base of the diadem is decorated with an unbroken single row of rose-cut diamonds. In total, the Marie Louise Diadem held seventy-nine Colombian emeralds 'of the highest quality', sourced from the mines of Muzo , along with 1,002 brilliant-cut and 264 rose-cut diamonds of various sizes totalling more than 700 carats (140 g) in weight. The seventy-nine emeralds were later removed and replaced with

2546-528: A story instead of just illustrating text, Luce launched the new Life on November 23, 1936, with John Shaw Billings and Daniel Longwell as founding editors. The third magazine published by Luce, after Time in 1923 and Fortune in 1930, Life developed as the definitive photo magazine in the U.S., giving as much space and importance to images as to words. The first issue of this version of Life , which sold for ten cents (worth $ 2.2 in 2023), had five pages of Alfred Eisenstaedt's photographs. In planning

2680-428: A typical turquoise deposit begins with hydrothermal deposition of copper sulfides . This takes place when hydrothermal fluids leach copper from a host rock, which is typically an intrusion of calc-alkaline rock with a moderate to high silica content that is relatively oxidized . The copper is redeposited in more concentrated form as a copper porphyry , in which veins of copper sulfide fill joints and fractures in

2814-458: A uniform dark blue) and texture (usually granular or sugary). Glass and plastic will have a much greater translucency, with bubbles or flow lines often visible just below the surface. Staining between grain boundaries may be visible in dyed imitations. Some destructive tests may be necessary; for example, the application of diluted hydrochloric acid will cause the carbonates odontolite and magnesite to effervesce and howlite to turn green, while

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2948-441: A wetting effect, thereby enhancing the colour and lustre. This treatment is more or less acceptable by tradition, especially because treated turquoise is usually of a higher grade to begin with. Oiled and waxed stones are prone to "sweating" under even gentle heat or if exposed to too much sun, and they may develop a white surface film or bloom over time. (With some skill, oil and wax treatments can be restored.) Since finer turquoise

3082-503: A world still friendly." For Life 's final issue in its original format, 80-year-old Edward Sandford Martin was recalled from editorial retirement to compose its obituary. He wrote: That Life should be passing into the hands of new owners and directors is of the liveliest interest to the sole survivor of the little group that saw it born in January 1883 ... As for me, I wish it all good fortune; grace, mercy and peace and usefulness to

3216-435: Is less common, and much less convincing. Other natural materials occasionally confused with or used in lieu of turquoise include: variscite and faustite ; chrysocolla (especially when impregnating quartz ); lazulite ; smithsonite ; hemimorphite ; wardite ; and a fossil bone or tooth called odontolite or "bone turquoise", coloured blue naturally by the mineral vivianite . While rarely encountered today, odontolite

3350-431: Is liable to fade or discolour over time and will not hold up to normal use in jewellery. Life (magazine) Life is an American magazine originally launched in 1883 as a weekly publication. In 1972 it transitioned to publishing "special" issues before running as a monthly from 1978, until 2000. Since 2000 Life has transitioned to irregularly publishing "special" issues. Originally published from 1883 to 1936 as

3484-510: Is nearly always cryptocrystalline and massive and assumes no definite external shape. Crystals, even at the microscopic scale, are rare. Typically the form is a vein or fracture filling, nodular, or botryoidal in habit . Stalactite forms have been reported. Turquoise may also pseudomorphously replace feldspar, apatite, other minerals, or even fossils . Odontolite is fossil bone or ivory that has historically been thought to have been altered by turquoise or similar phosphate minerals such as

3618-407: Is of a low grade (called "chalk turquoise"); high iron levels mean greens and yellows predominate, and a typically friable consistency in the turquoise's untreated state precludes use in jewelry . Arizona is currently the most important producer of turquoise by value. Several mines exist in the state, two of them famous for their unique colour and quality and considered the best in the industry:

3752-533: Is often found as thin seams, it may be glued to a base of stronger foreign material for reinforcement. These stones are termed "backed", and it is standard practice that all thinly cut turquoise in the Southwestern United States is backed. Native indigenous peoples of this region, because of their considerable use and wearing of turquoise, have found that backing increases the durability of thinly cut slabs and cabochons of turquoise. They observe that if

3886-463: Is restricted to a mine-riddled region in Nishapur , the 2,012 m (6,601 ft) mountain peak of Ali-mersai near Mashhad , the capital of Khorasan Province , Iran . Weathered and broken trachyte is host to the turquoise, which is found both in situ between layers of limonite and sandstone and amongst the scree at the mountain's base. These workings are the oldest known, together with those of

4020-428: Is so often the case with any precious stones, full disclosure about treatment is frequently not given. Gemologists can detect these treatments using a variety of testing methods, some of which are destructive, such as the use of a heated probe applied to an inconspicuous spot, which will reveal oil, wax or plastic treatment. Historically, light waxing and oiling were the first treatments used in ancient times, providing

4154-611: Is termed "bonded" or "stabilized" turquoise. This process consists of pressure impregnation of otherwise unsaleable chalky American material by epoxy and plastics (such as polystyrene ) and water glass (sodium silicate) to produce a wetting effect and improve durability. Plastic and water glass treatments are far more permanent and stable than waxing and oiling, and can be applied to material too chemically or physically unstable for oil or wax to provide sufficient improvement. Conversely, stabilization and bonding are rejected by some as too radical an alteration. The epoxy binding technique

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4288-454: Is the cause of the beautiful bright green to yellow-green shades. Some of the green to green-yellow shades may actually be variscite or faustite , which are secondary phosphate minerals similar in appearance to turquoise. A significant portion of the Nevada material is also noted for its often attractive brown or black limonite veining, producing what is called "spiderweb matrix". While a number of

4422-479: Is the country's other major producer, with more than 120 mines which have yielded significant quantities of turquoise. Unlike elsewhere in the US, most Nevada mines have been worked primarily for their gem turquoise and very little has been recovered as a byproduct of other mining operations. Nevada turquoise is found as nuggets , fracture fillings and in breccias as the cement filling interstices between fragments. Because of

4556-534: Is thought to be the location of the oldest mines; prior to the 1920s, the state was the country's largest producer; it is more or less exhausted today. Only one mine in California, located at Apache Canyon, operates at a commercial capacity today. The turquoise occurs as vein or seam fillings, and as compact nuggets; these are mostly small in size. While quite fine material is sometimes found, rivalling Iranian material in both colour and durability, most American turquoise

4690-440: Is treated only for porosity, the treatment is undetectable. The use of Prussian blue and other dyes (often in conjunction with bonding treatments) to "enhance” its appearance, make uniform or completely change the colour, is regarded as fraudulent by some purists, especially since some dyes may fade or rub off on the wearer. Dyes have also been used to darken the veins of turquoise. Material treated with plastic or water glass

4824-772: Is typically the most translucent, and under magnification, its surface structure is revealed to be peppered with dark blue discs not seen in material from other localities. The Southwest United States is a significant source of turquoise; Arizona , California ( San Bernardino , Imperial , Inyo counties), Colorado ( Conejos , El Paso , Lake , Saguache counties), New Mexico ( Eddy , Grant , Otero , Santa Fe counties) and Nevada ( Clark , Elko , Esmeralda County , Eureka , Lander , Mineral County and Nye counties) are (or were) especially rich. The deposits of California and New Mexico were mined by pre-Columbian Native Americans using stone tools, some local and some from as far away as central Mexico . Cerrillos , New Mexico

4958-468: Is used for "a spiritual protection and blessing." Among these peoples turquoise was used in mosaic inlay, in sculptural works, and was fashioned into toroidal beads and freeform pendants. The Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi) of the Chaco Canyon and surrounding region are believed to have prospered greatly from their production and trading of turquoise objects. The distinctive silver jewellery produced by

5092-407: Is usually opaque, but may be semitranslucent in thin sections. Colour is as variable as the mineral's other properties, ranging from white to a powder blue to a sky blue and from a blue-green to a yellowish green. The blue is attributed to idiochromatic copper while the green may be the result of iron impurities (replacing copper.) The refractive index of turquoise varies from 1.61 to 1.65 on

5226-708: The Algonquin Round Table , Sherwood tried to inject sophisticated humor onto the pages. Life published Ivy League jokes, cartoons, flapper sayings and all-burlesque issues. Beginning in 1920, Life undertook a crusade against Prohibition . It also tapped the humorous writings of Frank Sullivan , Robert Benchley , Dorothy Parker , Franklin Pierce Adams and Corey Ford . Among the illustrators and cartoonists were Ralph Barton , Percy Crosby , Don Herold , Ellison Hoover , H. T. Webster , Art Young and John Held, Jr. Life had 250,000 readers in 1920, but as

5360-613: The Aztecs (and possibly other Pre-Columbian Mesoamericans ), Persia , Mesopotamia , the Indus Valley , and to some extent in ancient China since at least the Shang dynasty . Despite being one of the oldest gems, probably first introduced to Europe (through Turkey ) with other Silk Road novelties, turquoise did not become important as an ornamental stone in the West until the 14th century, following

5494-686: The Cerrillos Hills in New Mexico, are typical supergene deposits formed from copper porphyries. The deposits in Cochise County, Arizona , are found in Cambrian quartzites and geologically young granites and go down at least as deep as 54 meters (177 ft). Turquoise was among the first gems to be mined, and many historic sites have been depleted, though some are still worked to this day. These are all small-scale operations, often seasonal owing to

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5628-562: The Earth's surface ) percolates through the copper porphyry. Dissolved oxygen in the water oxidizes the copper sulfides to soluble sulfates, and the acidic, copper-laden solution then reacts with aluminum and potassium minerals in the host rock to precipitate turquoise. This typically fills veins in volcanic rock or phosphate-rich sediments. Deposition usually takes place at a relatively low temperature, 90–195 °C (194–383 °F), and seems to occur more readily in arid environments. Turquoise in

5762-509: The First Dynasty and possibly earlier; however, probably the most well-known pieces incorporating the gem are those recovered from Tutankhamun 's tomb, most notably the Pharaoh 's iconic burial mask which was liberally inlaid with the stone. It also adorned rings and great sweeping necklaces called pectorals . Set in gold, the gem was fashioned into beads, used as inlay, and often carved in

5896-525: The Fort Peck Dam in Montana , a Works Progress Administration project, photographed by Margaret Bourke-White . The format of Life in 1936 was a success: the text was condensed into captions for 50 pages of photographs. The magazine was printed on heavily coated paper and cost readers only a dime ($ 2.20 in 2023). The magazine's circulation was beyond the company's predictions, going from 380,000 copies of

6030-611: The Galerie d’Apollon . The Marie Louise Diadem was returned to Van Cleef & Arpels after the 1962 exhibition. They lent it out to Marjorie Merriweather Post to wear to a fundraising ball for the Red Cross in Palm Beach, Florida in 1967, where it received a great amount of acclaim. When the firm later wrote to Post in 1971 offering her the opportunity to buy the diadem through a private sale before they began looking for clients, she donated

6164-615: The Jazz Age rolled into the Great Depression , the magazine lost money and subscribers. By the time editor George Eggleston took over, Life had switched from publishing weekly to monthly. Maxwell and Eggleston went to work revamping its editorial style to meet the times, which resulted in improved readership. However, Life had passed its prime and was sliding toward financial ruin. The New Yorker , debuting in February 1925, copied many of

6298-551: The Sinai Peninsula is found in lower Carboniferous sandstones overlain by basalt flows and upper Carboniferous limestone . The overlying beds were presumably the source of the copper, which precipitated as turquoise in nodules, horizontal seams, or vertical joints in the sandstone beds. The classical Iranian deposits are found in sandstones and limestones of Tertiary age were intruded by apatite -rich porphyritic trachytes and mafic rock. Supergene alteration fractured

6432-674: The Sinai Peninsula . Iran also has turquoise mines in Semnan and Kerman provinces. Since at least the First Dynasty (3000  BCE ) in ancient Egypt , and possibly before then, turquoise was used by the Egyptians and was mined by them in the Sinai Peninsula . This region was known as the Country of Turquoise by the native Monitu . There are six mines in the peninsula, all on its southwest coast, covering an area of some 650 km (250 sq mi). The two most important of these mines, from

6566-516: The Smithsonian Institution and the Louvre , who later owned pieces from the parure, put the gift as being presented on the day of the imperial wedding in 1810. Of mixed use as circumstantial evidence of the latter theory, a portrait of Marie Louise wearing a diadem of the design was painted by Jean-Baptiste Isabey in 1810 (see right). However, the painter may not have been working from life, as

6700-529: The United States Army Art Program . Each week during World War II, the magazine brought photographs of the war to Americans; it had photographers from all theaters of war. The magazine was imitated in enemy propaganda using contrasting images of Life and Death . In August 1942, writing about labor and racial unrest in Detroit , Life warned that "the morale situation is perhaps the worst in

6834-575: The 17th century and is derived from the Old French turquois meaning "Turkish" because the mineral was first brought to Europe through the Ottoman Empire . However, according to Etymonline , the word dates to the 14th century with the form turkeis , meaning "Turkish", which was replaced with turqueise from French in the 1560s. According to the same source, the gemstone was first brought to Europe from Turkestan or another Turkic territory. Pliny

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6968-560: The 1967 National Magazine Award , chosen by the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism . Despite the industry's accolades and its coverage of the U.S. mission to the Moon in 1969, the magazine continued to lose circulation. Time Inc. announced in January 1971 its decision to reduce circulation from 8.5 million to 7 million, in an effort to offset shrinking advertising revenues. The following year, Life cut its circulation further, to 5.5 million beginning with

7102-618: The 1980s to improve the stability of medium to high-grade turquoise. The process can be applied in several ways: either through deep penetration on rough turquoise to decrease porosity, by shallow treatment of finished turquoise to enhance color, or both. The treatment can enhance color and improve the turquoise's ability to take a polish. Such treated turquoise can be distinguished in some cases from natural turquoise, without destruction, by energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy , which can detect its elevated potassium levels. In some instances, such as with already high-quality, low-porosity turquoise that

7236-572: The American Southwest. The pre-Columbian Aztec and Maya also considered it to be a valuable and culturally important stone. The Egyptians were the first to produce an artificial imitation of turquoise, in the glazed earthenware product faience . Later glass and enamel were also used, and in modern times more sophisticated porcelain , plastics , and various assembled, pressed, bonded, and sintered products (composed of various copper and aluminium compounds) have been developed: examples of

7370-486: The Elder referred to the mineral as callais (from Ancient Greek κάλαϊς ) and the Aztecs knew it as chalchihuitl . In professional mineralogy, until the mid-19th century, the scientific names kalaite or azure spar were also used, which simultaneously provided a version of the mineral origin of turquoise. However, these terms did not become widespread and gradually fell out of use. The finest of turquoise reaches

7504-484: The January 14, 1972 issue. Life was reportedly not losing money, but its costs were rising faster than its profits. Life lost credibility with many readers when it supported author Clifford Irving , whose fraudulent autobiography of Howard Hughes was revealed as a hoax in January 1972. The magazine had purchased serialization rights to Irving's manuscript. Industry figures showed that some 96% of Life' s circulation went to mail subscribers, with only 4% coming from

7638-549: The Native American style, or as tumbled or roughly hewn beads in chunky necklaces. Lesser material may be carved into fetishes , such as those crafted by the Zuni . While strong sky blues remain superior in value, mottled green and yellowish material is popular with artisans . In many cultures of the Old and New Worlds, this gemstone has been esteemed for thousands of years as a holy stone,

7772-585: The Navajo and other Southwestern Native American tribes today is a rather modern development, thought to date from around 1880 as a result of European influences. In Persia, turquoise was the de facto national stone for millennia, extensively used to decorate objects (from turbans to bridles ), mosques , and other important buildings both inside and out, such as the Medresseh-i Shah Husein Mosque of Isfahan . The Persian style and use of turquoise

7906-595: The Nevada deposits were first worked by Native Americans, the total Nevada turquoise production since the 1870s has been estimated at more than 600 short tons (540 t), including nearly 400 short tons (360 t) from the Carico Lake mine. In spite of increased costs, small scale mining operations continue at a number of turquoise properties in Nevada, including the Godber, Orvil Jack and Carico Lake mines in Lander County,

8040-628: The Pilot Mountain Mine in Mineral County , and several properties in the Royston and Candelaria areas of Esmerelda County. In 1912, the first deposit of distinct, single-crystal turquoise was discovered at Lynch Station in Campbell County , Virginia . The crystals, forming a druse over the mother rock, are very small; 1 mm (0.04 in) is considered large. Until the 1980s Virginia

8174-561: The Sleeping Beauty Mine in Globe ceased turquoise mining in August 2012. The mine chose to send all ore to the crusher and to concentrate on copper production due to the rising price of copper on the world market. The price of natural untreated Sleeping Beauty turquoise has risen dramatically since the mine's closing. The Kingman Mine as of 2015 still operates alongside a copper mine outside of

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8308-454: The U.S. ... It is time for the rest of the country to sit up and take notice. For Detroit can either blow up Hitler or it can blow up the U.S." Mayor Edward Jeffries was outraged: "I'll match Detroit's patriotism against any other city's in the country. The whole story in Life is scurrilous ... I'd just call it a yellow magazine and let it go at that." The article was considered so dangerous to

8442-411: The U.S. entered World War II in 1941, Life covered the war closely. By 1944, of the 40 Time and Life war correspondents, seven were women: Americans Mary Welsh Hemingway , Margaret Bourke-White , Lael Tucker, Peggy Durdin, Shelley Smith Mydans , Annalee Jacoby, and Jacqueline Saix, an Englishwoman. (Saix's name is often omitted from the list, but she and Welsh are the only women listed as part of

8576-404: The approach of doom. Meanwhile, it has been discovered that the turquoise certainly can change colour, but that this is not necessarily a sign of impending danger. The change can be caused by the light, or by a chemical reaction brought about by cosmetics, dust or the acidity of the skin. The goddess Hathor was associated with turquoise, as she was the patroness of Serabit el-Khadim , where it

8710-561: The article/advertisement of the emeralds in Life magazine in January 1955, Van Cleef & Arpels' secretary, Fred Vermont, told the United Press, "In 24 hours, we were sold out of emeralds. And we are still flooded with orders…letters and telegrams from all over the country." One such brooch, set with nine of the diadem's emeralds, has been put up for auction at Christie's several times since its original purchase; it sold for $ 178,500 in 1999, and again for $ 450,000 in 2014. As each emerald

8844-558: The best offer. Beginning in 1953, a Spanish-language edition was published, titled Life en español. It had a circulation of over 300,000 in Latin America. For his 1955 Museum of Modern Art traveling exhibition The Family of Man , which was to be seen by nine million visitors worldwide, curator Edward Steichen relied heavily on photographs from Life; 111 of the 503 pictures shown, constituting more than 20% as counted by Abigail Solomon-Godeau . His assistant Wayne Miller entered

8978-696: The buyer on sale of the material. Turquoise prehistoric artifacts (beads) are known since the fifth millennium BCE from sites in the Eastern Rhodopes in Bulgaria – the source for the raw material is possibly related to the nearby Spahievo lead–zinc ore field. In Spain, turquoise has been found as a minor mineral in the variscite deposits exploited during prehistoric times in Palazuelos de las Cuevas (Zamora) and in Can Tintorer, Gavá (Barcelona). China has been

9112-463: The captions that the photos were fuzzy because Capa's hands were shaking. He denied it, claiming that the darkroom had ruined his negatives. Later he poked fun at Life by titling his war memoir Slightly Out of Focus (1947). In 1954, Capa was killed after stepping on a land mine , while working for the magazine covering the First Indochina War . Life photographer Bob Landry also went in with

9246-509: The city. Other mines include the Blue Bird mine, Castle Dome, and Ithaca Peak, but they are mostly inactive due to the high cost of operations and federal regulations. The Phelps Dodge Lavender Pit mine at Bisbee ceased operations in 1974 and never had a turquoise contractor. All Bisbee turquoise was "lunch pail" mined. It came out of the copper ore mine in miners' lunch pails. Morenci and Turquoise Peak are either inactive or depleted. Nevada

9380-486: The country. Life in the 1950s earned a measure of respect by commissioning work from top authors. After Life 's publication in 1952 of Ernest Hemingway 's The Old Man and the Sea , the magazine contracted with the author for a 4,000-word piece on bullfighting. Hemingway sent the editors a 10,000-word article, following his last visit to Spain in 1959 to cover a series of contests between two top matadors . The article

9514-453: The deposits are sporadically quarried by Bedouin peoples using homemade gunpowder . In the rainy winter months, miners face a risk from flash flooding ; even in the dry season, death from the collapse of the haphazardly exploited sandstone mine walls may occur. The colour of Sinai material is typically greener than that of Iranian material but is thought to be stable and fairly durable. Often referred to as "Egyptian turquoise", Sinai material

9648-528: The diadem and its associated jewelry pieces with her, where the crown jewels were left behind. The diadem was designed by Marie-Étienne Nitot , the official court jeweler of Emperor Napoleon, and produced by his company in Paris, The House of Chaumet . Nitot had been commissioned to create several other pieces for the Emperor in the past, including Napoleon's papal tiara , his coronation crown, his ceremonial sword and

9782-483: The diadem precluded any further replacement, however. Turquoise Like most other opaque gems, turquoise has been devalued by the introduction of treatments, imitations, and synthetics into the market. The robin egg blue or sky blue color of the Persian turquoise mined near the modern city of Nishapur , Iran , has been used as a guiding reference for evaluating turquoise quality. The word turquoise dates to

9916-440: The diadem was put on display in the Louvre in 1962, alongside the necklace, earrings and comb tiara from the original parure, as part of the 'Dix Siecles de Joaillerie Francaise' exhibition, celebrating French jewelry from the past millennium. The Louvre went on to purchase the necklace and earrings from their owners in 2004 for €3.7m, the highest price ever paid by a museum for individual pieces of jewelry. They remain on display in

10050-599: The election. Dewey was expected to win the election, and this mistake was also made by the Chicago Tribune . On May 10, 1950, the council of ministers in Cairo banned Life from Egypt forever. All issues on sale were confiscated. No reason was given, but Egyptian officials expressed indignation over the April 10, 1950 story about King Farouk of Egypt, entitled the "Problem King of Egypt". The government considered it insulting to

10184-428: The emeralds were divided amongst six pieces—two sets of earrings, a bracelet, a ring, a clip, and a necklace. These used platinum settings and more modern brilliant cut diamonds, and were valued as a set at around $ 1m. The smaller emeralds from the diadem were mounted piecemeal into individual pieces and sold at various price points, some as low as $ 300, advertised as "emeralds from the historic Napoleon Tiara." Following

10318-564: The features and styles of Life ; it recruited staff from its editorial and art departments. Another blow to Life 's circulation came from raunchy humor periodicals such as Ballyhoo and Hooey , which ran what can be termed " outhouse " gags. In 1933, Esquire joined Life 's competitors. In its final years, Life struggled to make a profit. Announcing the end of Life , Maxwell stated: "We cannot claim, like Mr. Gene Tunney , that we resigned our championship undefeated in our prime. But at least we hope to retire gracefully from

10452-494: The first issue to more than one million a week four months later. It soon challenged The Saturday Evening Post , then the largest-circulation weekly in the country. The magazine's success stimulated many imitators, such as Look , which was founded a year later in 1937 and ran until 1971. Luce moved Life into its own building at 19 West 31st Street, a Beaux-Arts building constructed in 1894. Later Life moved its editorial offices to 9 Rockefeller Plaza . A co-founder of

10586-454: The first wave at D-Day, "but all of Landry's film was lost, and his shoes to boot." In a notable mistake, in its final edition just before the 1948 U.S. presidential election , the magazine printed a large photo showing U.S. presidential candidate Thomas E. Dewey and his staff riding across San Francisco , California harbor entitled "Our Next President Rides by Ferryboat over San Francisco Bay ". Incumbent President Harry S. Truman won

10720-440: The front and narrowing towards the rear. Nitot made elaborate use of scrollwork , medallions , as well as palmettes and other floral motifs, rendered in silver and gold. In this it is similar to diadems and tiaras he produced for Marie-Thérèse, Duchess of Angoulême and Princess Augusta of Bavaria . The centrepiece at the front of the diadem was originally a single large square-cut emerald, aligned with one of its diagonals along

10854-449: The geology of the Nevada deposits, a majority of the material produced is hard and dense, being of sufficient quality that no treatment or enhancement is required. While nearly every county in the state has yielded some turquoise, the chief producers are in Lander and Esmeralda counties . Most of the turquoise deposits in Nevada occur along a wide belt of tectonic activity that coincides with

10988-452: The gestures of the proud; to see strange things—machines, armies, multitudes, shadows in the jungle and on the moon; to see man's work—his paintings, towers and discoveries; to see things thousands of miles away, things hidden behind walls and within rooms, things dangerous to come to; the women that men love and many children; to see and take pleasure in seeing; to see and be amazed; to see and be instructed... Luce's first issue cover depicted

11122-461: The history of the Russian Revolution. As the 1950s drew to a close and television became more popular, the magazine was losing readers. In May 1959 it announced plans to reduce its regular news-stand price from 25 cents a copy to 20. With the increase in television sales and viewership, interest in news magazines was waning. Life had to try to create a new form. In the 1960s, the magazine

11256-477: The iron phosphate vivianite . Intergrowth with other secondary copper minerals such as chrysocolla is also common. Turquoise is distinguished from chrysocolla, the only common mineral with similar properties, by its greater hardness. Turquoise forms a complete solid solution series with chalcosiderite , CuFe 6 (PO 4 ) 4 (OH) 8 ·4H 2 O , in which ferric iron replaces aluminium. Turquoise deposits probably form in more than one way. However,

11390-439: The jewels' long history within the family and the claimed original provenance. The remaining pieces of the parure were later sold separately by the family in private sales. Van Cleef & Arpels put both the diadem and belt buckle on display in the window of their New York store. At some point after, the firm took them down from display to remove the emeralds from both and re-set them into individual pieces of jewelry. The largest of

11524-412: The latter include "Viennese turquoise", made from precipitated aluminium phosphate coloured by copper oleate ; and "neolith", a mixture of bayerite and copper(II) phosphate . Most of these products differ markedly from natural turquoise in both physical and chemical properties, but in 1972 Pierre Gilson introduced one fairly close to a true synthetic (it does differ in chemical composition owing to

11658-480: The limited scope and remoteness of the deposits. Most are worked by hand with little or no mechanization. However, turquoise is often recovered as a byproduct of large-scale copper mining operations, especially in the United States. Deposits typically take the form of small veins in partially decomposed volcanic rock in arid climates. Iran has been an important source of turquoise for at least 2,000 years. It

11792-643: The magazine blamed the theatrical team of Klaw & Erlanger for Chicago 's Iroquois Theater Fire in 1903, many people complained. Life 's drama critic, James Stetson Metcalfe , was barred from the 47 Manhattan theatres controlled by the Theatrical Syndicate . Life published caricatures of Jews with large noses. Several individuals would publish their first major works in Life . In 1908 Robert Ripley published his first cartoon in Life , 20 years before his Believe It or Not! fame. Norman Rockwell 's first cover for Life magazine, Tain't You ,

11926-410: The magazine's archive in late 1953 and spent an estimated nine months there. He searched through 3.5 million images, most in the form of original negatives (only in the last years of the war did the picture department start to print contact sheets of all assignments) and submitted to Steichen for selection many that had not been published in the magazine. In November 1954, the actress Dorothy Dandridge

12060-473: The magazine's team in a Times 's publisher's letter, dated May 8, 1944.) Life backed the war effort each week. In July 1942, Life launched its first art contest for soldiers and drew more than 1,500 entries, submitted by all ranks. Judges sorted out the best and awarded $ 1,000 in prizes. Life picked 16 for reproduction in the magazine. The National Gallery in Washington, D.C. agreed to put 117 entries on exhibition that summer. Life , also supported

12194-455: The median line, which weighed 12 carats (2.4 g). A smaller oval-cut emerald was placed directly below the largest stone, and was in turn framed by five smaller rose-cut emeralds. Surrounding the centrepiece is a single layer of rose-cut white diamonds. Twenty large emeralds were set into the symmetrical floral and scrollwork decorations, cut in oval and briolette forms, and fifty-two smaller rose-cut and square-cut emeralds, also framed by

12328-462: The mid-19th century through the early 20th. These excavations, including that of Tutankhamun's tomb, created great public interest in the western world, subsequently influencing jewellery, architecture , and art of the time. Turquoise, already favoured for its pastel shades since around 1810, was a staple of Egyptian Revival pieces. In contemporary Western use, turquoise is most often encountered cut en cabochon in silver rings, bracelets, often in

12462-555: The military's efforts to use artists to document the war. When Congress forbade the armed forces from using government money to fund artists in the field, Life privatized the programs, hiring many of the artists being let go by the Department of War (which would later become the Department of Defense ). On December 7, 1960, Life managers later donated many of the works by such artists to the Department of War and its art programs, such as

12596-489: The more profitable newsstand sales. Gary Valk was publisher when, on December 8, 1972, the magazine announced it would cease publication by the end of the year and lay off hundreds of staff. The weekly Life magazine published its last issue on December 29, 1972. From 1972 to 1978, Time Inc. published ten Life Special Reports on such themes as "The Spirit of Israel", "Remarkable American Women" and "The Year in Pictures". With

12730-422: The mountains of Derge and Nagari-Khorsum in the east and west of the region respectively. Other notable localities include: Afghanistan ; Australia ( Victoria and Queensland ); north India ; northern Chile ( Chuquicamata ); Cornwall ; Saxony ; Silesia ; and Turkestan . The pastel shades of turquoise have endeared it to many great cultures of antiquity: it has adorned the rulers of Ancient Egypt ,

12864-403: The mural of life-size leathermen in the bar, which had been painted by Chuck Arnett in 1962. The article described San Francisco as "The Gay Capital of America" and inspired many gay leathermen to move there. On March 25, 1966, Life featured the drug LSD as its cover story. The drug had attracted attention among the counterculture and was not yet criminalized. In March 1967, Life won

12998-425: The mushrooms, which were used in traditional religious rituals. Life ' s motto became "To see Life; to see the world." The magazine produced many popular science serials, such as The World We Live In and The Epic of Man in the early 1950s. The magazine continued to showcase the work of notable illustrators, such as Alton S. Tobey , whose contributions included the cover for a 1958 series of articles on

13132-410: The new Life magazine, Longwell served as managing editor from 1944 to 1946 and chairman of the board of editors until his retirement in 1954. He was credited for publishing Winston Churchill 's The Second World War and Ernest Hemingway 's The Old Man and the Sea . Luce also selected Edward Kramer Thompson , a stringer for Time , as assistant picture editor in 1937. From 1949 to 1961 he

13266-468: The next 22 years as general-interest, news features magazine. In 1986, it marked its 50th anniversary under the Time Inc. umbrella with a special issue showing every Life cover starting from 1936, which included the issues published during the six-year hiatus in the 1970s. The circulation in this era hovered around 1.5 million. The cover price in 1986 was $ 2.50 (equivalent to $ 6.95 in 2023). The publisher

13400-535: The nude teenager take a bath. She was then redressed in only the clothes and jewels purchased for her by her new husband. As such, with no jewelry of her own, Marie Louise needed an entire new set produced for her. Among these were a pair of parures , one in diamond and opal, one in diamond and emerald. It is to the latter set that the later-named Marie Louise Diadem belonged. Both sets were given to Marie Louise to keep as part of her personal collection. As such, when she left Paris for Vienna after Napoleon's exile, she took

13534-767: The painting depicts the diadem as holding rubies instead of emeralds. Upon Marie Louise's death in 1847, her jewels were divided among her Habsburg relatives , her son having pre-deceased her. There is some disagreement over the exact path down the family tree that the diadem and its parure took: The reason for the unclear provenance between Marie Louise and Albrecht lies in the loss of the family's papers and documentation when Albrecht and his family fled Poland after being interned by Nazi Germany in World War II . After his death in Stockholm in 1951, Albrecht's widow ( Alice Habsburg ) and son ( Archduke Karl Stefan of Austria ) began

13668-522: The people," he said. A June 1964 Paul Welch Life article, "Homosexuality In America", was the first time a national mainstream publication reported on gay issues. Life 's photographer was referred to the gay leather bar in San Francisco called the Tool Box for the article by Hal Call , who had long worked to dispel the myth that all gay men were effeminate. The article opened with a two-page spread of

13802-490: The process of selling the family jewels, including the diadem, to various jewelers. However, with the documentation for the jewels lost during the flight from Poland, finding buyers proved difficult. Eventually, the New York-based jewelry firm Van Cleef & Arpels purchased the Marie Louise Diadem and its matching belt buckle from the family in 1953, accepting the signed affidavit of both Alice and Karl Stefan attesting to

13936-551: The recent Harvard University graduate was a founder of the Harvard Lampoon . The motto of the first issue of Life was: "While there's Life, there's hope." The new magazine set forth its principles and policies to its readers: We wish to have some fun in this paper...We shall try to domesticate as much as possible of the casual cheerfulness that is drifting about in an unfriendly world...We shall have something to say about religion, about politics, fashion, society, literature,

14070-655: The requested funds to the Smithsonian Institution to allow them to purchase it at the stated price. The Smithsonian Institution have had the diadem on display in the National Museum of Natural History ever since, in the Janet Hooker Hall of Gems and Geology. It was temporarily removed from its shared display alongside the Napoleon Diamond Necklace for several months in the 1990s while the diadem

14204-579: The rock and converted some of the minerals in the rock to alunite , which freed aluminum and phosphate to combine with copper from oxidized copper sulfides to form turquoise. This process took place at a relatively shallow depth, and by 1965 the mines had "bottomed" at a depth averaging just 9 meters (30 ft) below the surface. Turquoise deposits are widespread in North America. Some deposits, such as those of Saguache and Conejos Counties in Colorado or

14338-416: The rock. Deposition takes place mostly in the potassic alteration zone, which is characterized by conversion of existing feldspar to potassium feldspar and deposition of quartz and micas at a temperature of 400–600 °C (752–1,112 °F) Turquoise is a secondary or supergene mineral, not present in the original copper porphyry. It forms when meteoric water (rain or snow melt infiltrating

14472-581: The same number of Iranian turquoise stones, cut as cabochons rather than faceted like the original emeralds. The turquoise replacement stones weigh a total of 540 carats (108 g). Tradition dictated that a royal bride coming to France must keep nothing of her homeland, especially her clothes. Accordingly, when Marie Louise of Austria arrived in France to marry Emperor Napoleon, she was stripped of her dress, corset, stockings, and chemise, leaving her completely naked. Pauline Bonaparte , Napoleon's sister, then made

14606-404: The scarlet woman because of my rather puritanical upbringing and beliefs. I couldn't just have a romance. It had to be a marriage." In the 1960s, the magazine printed photographs by Gordon Parks . "The camera is my weapon against the things I dislike about the universe and how I show the beautiful things about the universe," Parks recalled in 2000. "I didn't care about Life magazine. I cared about

14740-522: The screen star. "I'm not a 'sex queen' or a 'sex symbol,' " Taylor said. "I don't think I want to be one. Sex symbol kind of suggests bathrooms in hotels or something. I do know I'm a movie star and I like being a woman, and I think sex is absolutely gorgeous. But as far as a sex goddess, I don't worry myself that way... Richard is a very sexy man. He's got that sort of jungle essence that one can sense... When we look at each other, it's like our eyes have fingers and they grab ahold.... I think I ended up being

14874-408: The set on several state occasions. There is some disagreement over the exact date the diadem was presented to Marie Louise. The jewelers Van Cleef & Arpels , who purchased the diadem in the mid 20th century, reported to Life magazine that Napoleon had gifted the diamond and emerald parure to her in celebration of the birth of her son, Napoléon François Joseph Charles Bonaparte , in 1811. Both

15008-407: The silver and gold jewellery of Tibet and Mongolia , where a greener hue is said to be preferred. Most of the pieces made today, with turquoise usually roughly polished into irregular cabochons set simply in silver, are meant for inexpensive export to Western markets and are probably not accurate representations of the original style. The Ancient Egyptian use of turquoise stretches back as far as

15142-457: The stage, the stock exchange, and the police station, and we will speak out what is in our mind as fairly, as truthfully, and as decently as we know how. The magazine was a success and soon attracted the industry's leading contributors, of which the most important was Charles Dana Gibson . Three years after the magazine was founded, the Massachusetts native first sold Life a drawing for $ 4:

15276-457: The state's zone of thrust faulting . It strikes at a bearing of about 15° and extends from the northern part of Elko County , southward down to the California border southwest of Tonopah . Nevada has produced a wide diversity of colours and mixes of different matrix patterns, with turquoise from Nevada coming in various shades of blue, blue-green, and green. Some of this unusually-coloured turquoise may contain significant zinc and iron , which

15410-473: The stone is not backed it will often crack. Backing of turquoise is not widely known outside of the Native American and Southwestern United States jewellery trade. Backing does not diminish the value of high quality turquoise, and indeed the process is expected for most thinly cut American commercial gemstones. A proprietary process was created by electrical engineer and turquoise dealer James E. Zachery in

15544-461: The three crystal axes, with birefringence 0.040, biaxial positive, as measured from rare single crystals. Crushed turquoise is soluble in hot hydrochloric acid . Its streak is white to greenish to blue, and its fracture is smooth to conchoidal . Despite its low hardness relative to other gems, turquoise takes a good polish. Turquoise may also be peppered with flecks of pyrite or interspersed with dark, spidery limonite veining. Turquoise

15678-570: The trade reconstituted turquoise is often called "block turquoise" or simply "block". Hardness and richness of colour are two of the major factors in determining the value of turquoise; while colour is a matter of individual taste, generally speaking, the most desirable is a strong sky to robin egg blue (in reference to the eggs of the American robin ). Whatever the colour, for many applications, turquoise should not be soft or chalky; even if treated, such lesser material (to which most turquoise belongs)

15812-625: The war effort that it was censored from copies of the magazine sold outside North America. The magazine hired war photographer Robert Capa in July 1943 to cover the Sicilian and Italian campaigns. A veteran of Collier's magazine, Capa accompanied the first wave of the D-Day invasion in Normandy, France , on June 6, 1944, and returned with only a handful of images, many of them out of focus. The magazine wrote in

15946-416: The wedding jewels of his first wife, Josephine de Beauharnais . In this case, the commissioned diadem was to be the centrepiece of a parure for Napoleon's second wife, Marie Louise of Austria. The parure also included matching earrings, a necklace, a comb tiara and a belt buckle, all designed in silver and gold, decorated with emeralds and diamonds, and using the same stylistic flourishes. Marie Louise wore

16080-451: The weekly news magazine, Luce circulated a confidential prospectus within Time Inc. in 1936, which described his vision for the new Life magazine, and what he viewed as its unique purpose. Life magazine was to be the first publication, with a focus on photographs, that enabled the American public, To see life; to see the world; to eyewitness great events; to watch the faces of the poor and

16214-471: The world of publishing. From 1936 to the 1960s, Life was a wide-ranging general-interest magazine known for its photojournalism . During this period it was one of the most popular magazines in the United States, its circulation regularly reaching a quarter of the American population. Life was founded on January 4, 1883, in a New York City artist's studio at 1155 Broadway , as a partnership between John Ames Mitchell and Andrew Miller . Mitchell held

16348-520: Was filled with color photos of movie stars, President John F. Kennedy and his family, the war in Vietnam , and the Apollo program . Typical of the magazine's editorial focus was a long 1964 feature on actress Elizabeth Taylor and her relationship with actor Richard Burton . Journalist Richard Meryman traveled with Taylor to New York , California , and Paris . Life ran a 6,000-word first-person article on

16482-480: Was first developed in the 1950s and has been attributed to Colbaugh Processing of Arizona, a company that still operates today. Perhaps the most extreme of treatments is "reconstitution", wherein fragments of fine turquoise material, too small to be used individually, are powdered and then bonded with resin to form a solid mass. Very often the material sold as "reconstituted turquoise" is artificial , with little or no natural stone, made entirely from resins and dyes. In

16616-512: Was initially named by Iranians " pērōzah " meaning "victory", and later the Arabs called it " fayrūzah ", which is pronounced in Modern Persian as " fīrūzeh ". In Iranian architecture, the blue turquoise was used to cover the domes of palaces because its intense blue colour was also a symbol of heaven on earth. This deposit is blue naturally and turns green when heated due to dehydration. It

16750-576: Was later brought to India following the establishment of the Mughal Empire there, its influence seen in high purity gold jewellery (together with ruby and diamond ) and in such buildings as the Taj Mahal . Persian turquoise was often engraved with devotional words in Arabic script which was then inlaid with gold. Cabochons of imported turquoise, along with coral, was (and still is) used extensively in

16884-523: Was mined. Her titles included "Lady of Turquoise", "Mistress of Turquoise", and "Lady of Turquoise Country". In Western culture, turquoise is also the traditional birthstone for those born in the month of December. The turquoise is also a stone in the Jewish High Priest 's breastplate , described in Exodus chapter 28. The stone is also considered sacred to the indigenous Zuni and Pueblo peoples of

17018-504: Was once mined in large quantities—specifically for its use as a substitute for turquoise—in southern France . These fakes are detected by gemologists using a number of tests, relying primarily on non-destructive, close examination of surface structure under magnification; a featureless, pale blue background peppered by flecks or spots of whitish material is the typical surface appearance of natural turquoise, while manufactured imitations will appear radically different in both colour (usually

17152-419: Was passed to a conservator-restorer for restoration. During that restoration, the antique frame was disassembled, cleaned, and re-assembled, with damaged portions soldered . After facilitating the purchase, Post inquired about the possibility of replacing the turquoise with emeralds once again, either artificial or—if possible to collect from their new owners—the original gemstones themselves. The fragility of

17286-453: Was published May 10, 1917. His paintings were featured on Life 's cover 28 times between 1917 and 1924. Rea Irvin , the first art director of The New Yorker and creator of the character " Eustace Tilley ", began his career by drawing covers for Life . This version of Life took sides in politics and international affairs, and published pro-American editorials. After Germany attacked Belgium in 1914, Mitchell and Gibson undertook

17420-500: Was republished in 1985 as the novella, The Dangerous Summer . In February 1953, just a few weeks after leaving office, President Harry S. Truman announced that Life magazine would handle all rights to his memoirs. Truman said it was his belief that by 1954 he would be able to speak more fully on subjects pertaining to the role his administration played in world affairs. Truman observed that Life editors had presented other memoirs with great dignity; he added that Life had also made

17554-475: Was sold, Van Cleef & Arpels replaced it in the original diadem with turquoise sourced from Iran (then Persia). Jeffrey Edward Post, Curator of the U.S. National Gem and Mineral Collection, speculates that turquoise was chosen as it was relatively inexpensive and easy to shape to match the original settings, while the Louvre claim it was done by request of Marjorie Merriweather Post . It was with these new stones that

17688-513: Was the first African-American woman to be featured on the cover of the magazine. In 1957, R. Gordon Wasson , a vice president at J. P. Morgan , published an article in Life extolling the virtues of magic mushrooms . This prompted Albert Hofmann to isolate psilocybin in 1958 for distribution by Sandoz alongside LSD in the U.S., further raising interest in LSD in the mass media. Following Wasson's report, Timothy Leary visited Mexico to try out

17822-441: Was the managing editor, and served as editor-in-chief for nearly a decade, until his retirement in 1970. His influence was significant during the magazine's heyday, which was roughly from 1936 until the mid-1960s. Thompson was known for the free rein he gave his editors, particularly a "trio of formidable and colorful women: Sally Kirkland , fashion editor; Mary Letherbee, movie editor; and Mary Hamman , modern living editor." When

17956-550: Was widely thought to be the only source of distinct crystals; there are now at least 27 other localities. In an attempt to recoup profits and meet demand, some American turquoise is treated or enhanced to a certain degree. These treatments include innocuous waxing and more controversial procedures, such as dyeing and impregnation (see Treatments ). There are some American mines which produce materials of high enough quality that no treatment or alterations are required. Any such treatments which have been performed should be disclosed to

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