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59-794: According to Māori tradition , Hoturoa was the leader of the Tainui canoe, during the migration of the Māori people to New Zealand , around 1400. He is considered the founding ancestor of the Tainui confederation of tribes ( iwi ), who now inhabit the central North Island . According to Māori tradition, Hoturoa was a leader in Hawaiki , an unlocated territory somewhere in Polynesia . Because over-population had led to famine and warfare, Hoturoa decided to leave Hawaiki and he commissioned Rakatāura , an expert boat builder in

118-463: A kūmara garden. The people of the Tainui waka settled at Kāwhia Harbour, and expanded their territory inland in the Waikato region over the following generations, under the leadership of Tūrongo , Rereahu , and Whāita . According to Percy Smith , after landing at Kāwhia, Tainui was taken south to Taranaki , where Hine-moana-te-waiwai of Ngāti Hikawai married the Tainui crewman Kopuwai, who

177-399: A kūmara garden. Hoturoa was summoned to Pākarikari by the false news that Whakaotirangi was dying and when he saw the kūmara he wept and reconciled with her. Hoturoa now neglected Marama-kiko-hura, believing that her infant son Tānenui was not actually his son, but the product of an affair. One day, while Marama-kiko-hura was away, Tānenui would not stop crying, so Hoturoa stuck his penis in

236-478: A loss of 189 lives. For this reason, along with the harbour's shallowness, it is not Auckland's favoured port, and, with only one short wharf, the facilities at Onehunga are tiny compared to the other Ports of Auckland facilities on the Waitematā Harbour along the northeast of the isthmus. The harbour has three main arms. The Māngere Inlet at the northeast lies close to Auckland's central city area, with

295-575: A programme of integrated management is required to reverse this situation and secure a healthy, productive and sustainable resource for everybody now and for future generations. In response to concern about the deteriorating state of the Manukau Harbour and the urgent need for a collaborative response to improve its condition, the Manukau Harbour Forum was created in November 2010 to advocate for

354-577: A result, Hoturoa had Tainui seized and brought back to Kawhia. Tarapounamu had descendants on D'Urville Island . Manukau Harbour The Manukau Harbour is the second largest natural harbour in New Zealand by area. It is located to the southwest of the Auckland isthmus , and opens out into the Tasman Sea . The harbour mouth is between the northern head ("Burnett Head" / "Ohaka Head") located at

413-650: A sacred place for the Tainui people. As they rounded the Coromandel Peninsula , the crew wept for Arawa and the other waka that they had left behind, and as a result they named the bay that they were sailing into Tīkapa Moana , 'the Mournful sea' (the Hauraki Gulf). The waka landed at Tararu and Wai-whakapukuhanga, where they left one of their anchors, then to Wharekawa , where people who had already settled told

472-538: A sacred tree, but Ngātoro-i-rangi sang an incantation which calmed the sea. Several Tuamotuan stories tell of canoes named Tainui , Tainuia (captained by Hoturoa) and Tainui-atea (captained by Tahorotakarari), that left the Tuamotus and never returned. On its voyage the Tainui stopped at many Pacific islands. On Rarotonga , they encountered some distant relatives and invited them to accompany them to New Zealand, but they refused. The island of Tangi'ia ('farewell')

531-410: A special incantation, which sent Kohiti-nui's spirit out to sea in the form of a fly and the men were able to haul the canoe down to the sea. According to Pei Te Hurinui Jones the waka was named Tainui because when it first went into the water, it did not ride smoothly and one of Hoturoa's wives, perhaps Marama, shouted out "Hoturoa, your canoe is tainui (very heavy)". According to D. M. Stafford,

590-551: A volcanic crater. Auckland Airport is located close to the harbour's eastern shore. The Manukau Harbour is a drowned river valley system, which formed between 3 and 5 million years ago when tectonic forces between the Pacific Plate and Australian Plate uplifted the Waitākere Ranges and subsided the Manukau Harbour. It began as an open bay, eventually forming as a sheltered harbour as elongated sand dune barriers formed at

649-428: Is known as Te Manuka-o-Hotunui or Te Manukanuka-o-Hotunui, describing the anxiety Hoturoa felt when attempting to navigate this passage. The name, originally used for just the mouth of the harbour, became used for the entire harbour over time. Other traditions hold that it is a corruption of mānuka , being a descriptive name for the number of mānuka shrubs growing around the harbour, while another asserts that Manukau

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708-558: Is named for this encounter. Also on Rarotonga, they encountered Tama-te-kapua , chief of the Arawa waka, who kidnapped Ngātoro-i-rangi and his wife Kearoa. Riu-ki-uta took over as Tainui 's navigator. Riu-ki-uta summoned the sea taniwha , Mawake-nui-o-rangi, Pane-iraira, Ihe , and Mangō-hikuroa , and seventy-six others, to guide the waka. An incantation by Taikehu caused the canoe to travel quickly. When Tainui arrived in New Zealand, it

767-535: Is precious about the Manukau, it is under ongoing threat from constant development and growth, with the pollution and damage that brings. Currently, according to the State of Auckland Marine Report Card, the harbour has a D-rating overall, based on water quality, contaminants and sediment, and ecology. Careful and integrated management of land-based activities, such as development through good land-use practices, and commitment to

826-596: Is said to have been transformed into a rock that can be seen today. At the mouth of the Mimi river , Tainui came ashore and Hoturoa planted a pohutakawa tree, which was still living as of 1912. The area had already been settled by one of Hoturoa's relatives, Awangaiariki from the Tokomaru waka , so they turned around and began to head north once more. At the mouth of the Mōkau River , three rocks are said to be mooring stakes used by

885-406: Is the name of a chief who died in the waters of the harbour. Another traditional name for the harbour is Nga-tai-o-Rakataura, referring to Rakatāura / Hape , the tohunga of the Tainui . During the early colonial era of Auckland, an attempt was made to rename the harbour Symonds Harbour, after the late William Cornwallis Symonds , who died in 1841, battling a storm in the harbour. The harbour

944-755: The Arawa canoe and founder of Te Arawa confederation of tribes, based in Rotorua and the Bay of Plenty . He married twice. His first wife was Whakaotirangi, whom he married in Hawaiki and who accompanied him on Tainui . They had several sons and a daughter: His second wife was Marama-kiko-hura (Marama of the bare flesh) or Marama-hahake (Marama the naked), whom he married in Hawaiki. She accompanied him on Tainui but he repudiated her after settling in Kāwhia. They had one son whose legitimacy

1003-602: The Arawa canoe was made alongside the Tainui for Tama-te-kapua . The waka was thirty cubits long (13.5 metres) - the distance is preserved by two stone pillars, Puna and Hani, at the Maketū marae in Kawhia . It had a small ama (an outrigger ), called Takere-aotea ('cloudy hull'), and three sails. Because it was made in a hurry, the waka had no carvings . Tradition records the names of forty crew-members, twenty-nine men and eleven women. The men were: The women were: Tainui

1062-546: The Tainui . As they crossed Te Tō Waka (the portage at Ōtāhuhu between the Manukau Harbour and the Tāmaki River ), the crew believed they heard voices of people on the other side. When they reached the harbour, they found that this was only birds ("Manu kau"). Another Tainui tradition involves Hoturoa , the captain of the Tainui waka. This tradition involves the naming of the Manukau Heads opening and sandbars, which

1121-519: The Hakarimata Range . One of his relatives, Rotu, stopped here and established an altar at a place called Tanekaitu. Hiaroa went on to Pu-karamea-nui and established an altar at a place called Moekakara. At Mount Roskill or Puketutu Island , Rakatāura and Hiaroa lit a fire and sung incantations to prevent Tainui from entering the Manukau Harbour . Then Rakatāura and Hiaroa went south, meeting

1180-423: The Manukau Harbour . Then Rakatāura and Hiaroa went south, climbed up Karioi Mountain , and sung incantations to prevent Tainui from entering Raglan harbour . Again, they sang incantations at Ngairo to prevent Tainui from entering Aotea Harbour or Kāwhia Harbour . At the mouth of the Mimi river , Hoturoa brought Tainui to shore and planted a pōhutukawa tree, which was still living as of 1912, though it

1239-486: The Mōtū River . Tainui was accompanied by Arawa , as far as Whitianga , where the crews of Tainui and Arawa had a meeting on Great Mercury Island , after which Tainui continued alone. One of sails of the waka was left at a cliff near Whitianga, which is now known as Te Rā o Tainui ('the sail of Tainui'). At Wharenga , they erected a stone altar at the place known as Kohatu-whakairi ('Hanging Stone'), formerly

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1298-477: The New Zealand wars , and which later became a landing point for kauri and other products landed by ship and canoe from the south, the shipping route being shorter than the one along the east coast to the Waitematā Harbour. However, the combination of the difficult entry into the harbour, which limited ships to about 1,000 tons maximum, and the extension of the railway to Onehunga in 1873 made naval traffic on

1357-510: The Waikato River at Ruakokopu and crossing it at Te Piko o Hiaroa ('Hiaroa's Bend'). They climbed up Karioi Mountain , built an altar called Tuāhu-papa, and sung incantations to prevent Tainui from entering Raglan harbour . Again, they sang incantations at Ngairo to prevent Tainui from entering Aotea Harbour or Kawhia Harbour . As the Tainui travelled south, its bailer was swept overboard at Te Karaka (near Waikaretu ), where it

1416-529: The Waitematā Harbour . There, Taikehu encouraged Hoturoa to go out and look for the sea to the west. When Hoturoa returned he said he had seen kanae (grey mullet) leaping in the waves, known thereafter as 'pōtiki a Taikehu' (Taikehu's children). At the mouth of the Tāmaki River , several members of the crew went ashore. Tāiki settled at Ōtāiki. Horoiwi took the cape to the east of the river, naming it Te Pane o Horoiwi ( Bucklands Beach ). Te Kete-ana-taua settled at Taurere , with her son Taihaua, and they became

1475-480: The waka overland to Manukau Harbour on the west coast at Ōtāhuhu , after rendezvousing with Marama-kiko-hura there. As they hauled the canoe across the isthmus on rollers, however, it stuck and would not move. Riutiuka reported that this was because Marama-kiko-hura had violated tapu with one of the crew or with a local man during her journey. Repeating the special incantation the Hoturoa had used to haul Tainui into

1534-493: The Karangahape Peninsula, was the first site for the future city of Auckland. However, because of fraudulent land sales and rugged conditions, the settlement was mostly abandoned in the 1840s. The surrounding bush clad hills had vast amounts of kauri removed for milling and shipped from a wharf on Paratutai to either the other end of the harbour at Onehunga for use in house building in the new city of Auckland, or along

1593-485: The ancestors of Ngāi Tai ki Tāmaki . Further to the west, at Te Tatua-a-Riukiuta (Three Kings), Riu-ki-uta settled and became the ancestor of Ngāti Riukiuta . Poutūkeka, Hāpopo, Te Uhenga, and Hautai also settled on the Tamaki isthmus (present-day Auckland ). Hoturoa decided that Tāmaki was overpopulated and that they could carry on in search of new lands. According to one tradition, reported by Aoterangi, they carried

1652-415: The baby's mouth. When Marama-kiko-hura returned, she realised what had happened and departed with Tānenui for Tāmaki (Auckland), where Tānenui had descendants. Hoturoa died at Kāwhia. Hoturoa was the son of Auau-te-rangi and Kuotepo. He had two younger brothers, Hotunui, who accompanied him on Tainui , and Pūmai-te-rangi, who remained in Hawaiki. More distantly, he was related to Tama-te-kapua , leader of

1711-488: The beach by Māhina and Mā-ihīhi, who refused to return them. As they were coming in to land, they were so inexperienced with the region that Tainui was caught in a current and smashed against a rock, but they were able to right the waka and make landfall. Then Rakatāura threw his own hair into the sea, allowing the sea taniwha that had been guiding the Tainui on the open sea to depart. The other waka had arrived before Tainui , but their crews had gone out to investigate

1770-411: The canoe across the isthmus on rollers, however, it stuck and would not move. The tohunga Riutiuka reported that this was because Marama-kiko-hura had violated tapu with one of the crew or with a local man during her journey. Repeating the special incantation the Hoturoa had used to haul Tainui into the sea in Hawaiki, they were able to get the canoe moving. According to another tradition, however, it

1829-532: The canoe and another anchor was left behind. Hoturoa disembarked and travelled north by land. At Whareorino he encountered Rakatāura and they reconciled. Together, they brought Tainui in to Kāwhia harbour and hauled it ashore. Hoturoa set up an altar on the site, called Puna-whakatupu-tangata ('The Source of Mankind') and Rakatāura set up one called Hani. The waka was buried at Maketu marae , where it remains to this day. Whakaotirangi , Hoturoa's wife, settled at Pakarikari near Kāwhia Harbour and established

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1888-434: The coast of the Bay of Plenty to the west. At Taumata-o-Apanui, one of the women in the waka , Tōrere, jumped out of the boat in the night and swam ashore, because she was angry with Rakatāura. She hid herself in a bush at Tōrere and Rakatāura was not able to find her. She married a local man Manāki-ao and became the ancestor of Ngāitai . At Hāwai , one of the men, Tari-toronga, left the ship, headed inland and settled on

1947-497: The coast to other New Zealand settlements. The last mills were abandoned in the early 1920s. European settlement of the area was thus almost often an outgrowth of the Waitematā Harbour-centred settlement, as these settlers spread south and west through the isthmus and reached the Manukau Harbour. One of the few separate earlier European settlements was Onehunga, from where some raiding of enemy settlements occurred during

2006-463: The construction process, one of the workers, Kohiti-nui, covered himself with wood-chips and dust so that it would seem that he had been working hard and would take all the best food for himself. Rakatāura noticed this and killed him, burying him in the wood-chips. Because of this murder, when the canoe was finished, it would not move, it could not be hauled down to the sea, and the karakia o te Tōanga ('the hauling spell') did not work. Then Hoturoa sung

2065-406: The crew that there was another sea to the west ( Tasman Sea ). Hoturoa's wife, Marama-kiko-hura, decided to make the crossing by land, planning to meet up with the rest of the crew at Ōtāhuhu . As she went, she sang the 'karakia urūru-whenua' ('the incantation for entering new lands') and carried the Tainui's treasures. Continuing on, Tainui passed Motutapu island and fetched up at Takapuna in

2124-447: The fourth night in the month of Hakihea (roughly December). When the people warned Hoturoa that this period of the month, Tamatea (the new moon ), is characterised by wind and storms, he said, "Let me and Tamatea fight it out at sea!" The ship visited many Pacific islands before arriving in New Zealand, at Whangaparaoa Bay in the Bay of Plenty . The other waka had arrived before Tainui , but their crews had gone out to investigate

2183-551: The harbour less important again, though the Port of Onehunga can trace its origins to this time. Construction of a canal between the Manukau and the Waitemata was considered in the early 1900s, and the Auckland and Manukau Canal Act 1908 was passed to allow authorities to take privately owned land for this purpose. However, no serious work (or land take) was undertaken. The act was reported as technically still being in force as of 2008, but

2242-469: The harbour's mouth. Over the last two million years, the harbour has cycled between periods of being a forested river valley and a flooded harbour, depending on changes in the global sea level . The present harbour formed approximately 8,000 years ago, after the Last Glacial Maximum . There are various traditions associated with the naming of the harbour. A Tainui tradition involves the crew of

2301-399: The harbour, being silted up with almost 10 million years of sedimentation, is rather shallow itself. Because of the large harbour area and narrow mouth between the Manukau Heads , tidal flow is rapid and a bar at the mouth makes navigating in or out of the harbour dangerous. New Zealand's most tragic shipwreck occurred on the bar in 1863 when HMS Orpheus ran aground in clear weather with

2360-606: The inner suburbs of Onehunga and Te Papapa situated close to its northern shore. The Ōtāhuhu and Māngere urban areas lie south of this arm, which is crossed by the Māngere Bridge . In the southeast is the Papakura Channel, which extends into the urban area of Papakura . In the southwest a further inlet known as the Waiuku River reaches south to the town of Waiuku . The harbour reaches into Māngere Lagoon , which occupies

2419-408: The land. Hoturoa built a tuahu (altar) and had the anchor rope of Tainui placed beneath that of the other waka . When the other crews returned, Hoturoa pointed to these things as evidence that Tainui had actually arrived first. This incident is the subject of much dispute between Tainui and Arawa, who tell a similar story, but with the roles reversed. From Whangaparoa, Tainui sailed along

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2478-561: The land. Hoturoa built a tuahu (altar) and had the anchor rope of Tainui placed beneath that of the other waka . When the other crews returned, Hoturoa pointed to these things as evidence that Tainui had actually arrived first. This incident is the subject of much dispute between Tainui and Arawa. From there, the ship travelled west, around the Coromandel peninsula to the Tāmaki isthmus (modern Auckland ), where they heard of another sea to

2537-501: The north coast of the North Island, finally landing at Kawhia in the western Waikato . The crew of the Tainui were the ancestors of the iwi that form the Tainui confederation. The Tainui waka (canoe) was made from a great tree, at a place in Hawaiki known then as Maungaroa, on the spot where a stillborn child had been buried. According to Te Tāhuna Herangi the waka was named after the child who had been called Tainui. The canoe

2596-483: The sea in Hawaiki, they were able to get the canoe moving. According to another tradition, however, it was Rakatāura who was to sing the special incantation, but when he was about to do so, his sister Hiaroa abused him for helping Hoturoa when the latter had refused to allow him to marry Hoturoa's daughter Kahukeke. As a result, Rakatāura left the crew and Tainui had to sail all the way around Northland . Meanwhile, Rakatāura went inland with ten of his relatives along

2655-460: The sea to the west. When Hoturoa returned he said he had seen grey mullet leaping in the waves, known thereafter as 'pōtiki a Taikehu' (Taikehu's children). Hoturoa decided that Tāmaki was overpopulated and that they could carry on in search of new lands. According to one tradition, reported by Aoterangi, they carried the waka overland to Manukau Harbour on the west coast at Ōtāhuhu, after rendezvousing with Marama-kiko-hura there. As they hauled

2714-550: The site, called Puna-whakatupu-tangata ('The Source of Mankind') and Rakatāura set up one called Hani. The waka was buried at Maketū marae , where it remains to this day. At Kāwhia, Hoturoa established settlements at Maketū, Paringa-a-tai, Motungaio, Ōmiti, and Te Puru, laying out gardens of taro , hue , and kūmara , which had been brought from Hawaiki by his wife Whakaotirangi . Hoturoa disavowed his senior wife, Whakaotirangi, in favour of his younger wife Marama-kiko-hura. Whakaotirangi withdrew to Pākarikari, where she established

2773-442: The southern end of the Waitākere Ranges and South Head at the end of the Āwhitu Peninsula reaching up from close to the mouth of the Waikato River . The mouth is only 1800 metres wide, but after a nine kilometre channel it opens up into a roughly square basin 20 kilometres in width. The harbour has a water surface area of 394 square kilometres. There is a tidal variation of up to 4 metres, a very substantial change, especially since

2832-447: The tradition of Rātā (or according to Wirihana Aoterangi by Rātā himself) to build the Tainui waka According to Pei Te Hurinui Jones the waka was named Tainui because when it first went into the water, it did not ride smoothly and one of Hoturoa's wives, perhaps Marama, shouted out "Hoturoa, your canoe is tainui ('very heavy')". Tainui was one of the last waka to leave Hawaiki for New Zealand. It departed on Uenuku 's night,

2891-432: The west. Hoturoa's wife, Marama-kiko-hura, decided to make the crossing by land, planning to meet up with the rest of the crew at Ōtāhuhu . As she went, she sang the 'karakia urūru-whenua' ('the incantation for entering new lands') and carried the Tainui's treasures. Continuing on, Tainui passed Motutapu island and fetched up at Takapuna in the Waitematā Harbour . There, Taikehu encouraged Hoturoa to go out and look for

2950-448: Was Rakatāura who was to sing the special incantation, but when he was about to do so, his sister Hiaroa abused him for helping Hoturoa when the latter had refused to allow him to marry Hoturoa's daughter Kahukeke. As a result, Rakatāura left the crew and Hoturoa had to sail Tainui all the way around Northland . At Mount Roskill or Puketutu Island , Rakatāura and Hiaroa lit a fire and sung incantations to prevent Tainui from entering

3009-529: Was an important historical waterway for Māori . It had several portages to the Pacific Ocean and to the Waikato River, and various villages and pā (hill forts) clustered around it. Snapper, flounder, mullet, scallops, cockles and pipi provided food in plentiful amounts. In Te Kawerau ā Maki tradition, the taniwha Paikea guards the Manukau Harbour and Waitākere Ranges coastline. Cornwallis , on

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3068-528: Was chopped down by the local New Zealand council government in 1915. The area had already been settled by one of Hoturoa's relatives, Awangaiariki from the Tokomaru waka , so they turned around and began to head north once more. At the mouth of the Mōkau river , Hoturoa disembarked and travelled north by land. At Whareorino he encountered Rakatāura and they reconciled. Together, they brought Tainui in to Kāwhia harbour and hauled it ashore. Hoturoa set up an altar on

3127-553: Was found to be standing again the next morning. On the third occasion, Rakatāura stayed at the site overnight and discovered that the tree was being magically reassembled at night by birds led by the porihawa (a relative of the Hokioi ). An old woman, Māhu-rangi (or Maru-a-nuku) gave them some grated kumara which she instructed him to place on the stump and a karakia (incantation, prayer) for chopping down trees, called Te Karakia o te Tuanga o te Rākau ('The tree-felling spell'). During

3186-418: Was made by Rakatāura , an expert boat builder in the tradition of Rātā , or according to Wirihana Aoterangi by Rātā himself. It was built with three adzes ( toki ): Hahau-te-pō ('Chop the night-world') to chop down the tree, Paopao-te-rangi ('Shatter the heavens') to split the wood, and Manu-tawhio-rangi ('Bird encircling the sky) to shape it. The first two times that the tree was chopped down, it

3245-399: Was one of the last waka to leave Hawaiki for New Zealand. It departed on Uenuku 's night, the fourth night in the month of Hakihea (roughly December). When the people warned Hoturoa that this period of the month, Tamatea (the new moon ), is characterised by wind and storms, he said, "Let me and Tamatea fight it out at sea!" The way out of the lagoon into the open sea was barred by waves and

3304-449: Was questioned: Tainui (canoe) Tainui was one of the great ocean-going canoes in which Polynesians migrated to New Zealand approximately 800 years ago. It was commanded by the chief Hoturoa , who had decided to leave Hawaiki because over-population had led to famine and warfare. The ship first reached New Zealand at Whangaparāoa in the Bay of Plenty and then skirted around

3363-465: Was renamed Tarapounamu, after a large pounamu spearhead that had formed Hine-moana-te-waiwai's dowry . Later, Tarapounamu wanted to see the South Island , so he took Tainui and headed south. At Mōkau River he left an anchor and a stand of Pomaderris apetala trees (called tainui in Māori ). Then he landed at Te Waiiti (near New Plymouth ) and allowed Tainui to become full of excrement. As

3422-510: Was repealed on 1 November 2010. A 2,700 ft (0.82 km) canal reserve, 2 ch (40 m) wide, remains in place. The harbour is popular for fishing, though entry to the water is difficult with few all-tide boat ramps; often local beaches are used. The harbour also houses five active sailing clubs, three on the southern side, one near Māngere Bridge, and one on the northern side. Since 1988, there has been an annual interclub competition, hosted by each club in rotation. Despite all that

3481-459: Was surrounded by birds and Rotu sang an incantation to the birds to bring them to shore. This first landfall was at Whangaparāoa near Cape Runaway in Te Moana-a-Toi (the Bay of Plenty). Seeing the red flowers of the pōhutakawa trees, two of the men, Hāpopo and Taininihi, threw away their red-feather head-dresses, thinking that they could use the flowers instead. The feathers were found on

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