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Hackney Marshes

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68-616: Hackney Marshes is an area of open space in London's Lower Lea Valley , lying on the western bank of the River Lea . It takes its name from its position on the eastern boundary of Hackney , the principal part of the London Borough of Hackney , and from its origin as an area of true marsh . The marshes were extensively drained from Medieval times onwards, and rubble was dumped here from buildings damaged by air raids during World War II , raising

136-464: A Lea fishery scheme, the pub is now long gone but a bridge remains, rebuilt to supply anti-aircraft batteries during World War II . In the Marshes towards Hackney Wick were low public houses, the haunt of highwaymen and their Dulcineas. Dick Turpin was a constant guest at the "White House," or "Tyler's Ferry," near Joe Sowter's cock-pit at Temple Mills; and few police-officers were bold enough to approach

204-475: A SSW to a SSE direction for the last 5 miles (8.0 km) before its confluence with the Thames at Blackwall and Canning Town . The north-west of the area is in the London Borough of Hackney , the south-east is in the London Borough of Newham , the south-west is in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets , and the north-east is in the London Borough of Waltham Forest . The Lower Lea includes Hackney Marshes and

272-621: A communist revolution in Russia. The first bomb of the first air raid on London, fell on 16 Alkham Road, West Hackney , in May 1915 by the German Army airship LZ 38 . No one was seriously hurt at that address but the raid killed seven people elsewhere, including four children, causing great anger among the public. East London was at particular risk at this time, due to the Kaiser's order, later rescinded, that

340-422: A few years so encreas'd in buildings, and so fully inhabited, that there is no comparison to be made between their present and past state: Every separate hamlet is encreas'd, and some of them more than treble as big as formerly; Indeed as this whole town is included in the bills of mortality, tho' no where joining to London, it is in some respects to be call'd a part of it. In the 1770s Hackney became home to one of

408-624: A great causeway of stone, which, by the Roman coins found there, would appear to have been one of the famous highways made by the Romans The river forms a natural boundary, so in 527 AD it formed the boundary between the Saxon kingdoms of Essex and Middlesex . In the 9th century, it formed a part of the Danelaw boundary and reputedly, King Alfred stranded an invading Viking fleet here in 895 AD. This

476-554: A mostly low-lying area in proximity to two rivers, the Lea and the Hackney Brook . This would have made the area attractive for pastoral and arable agriculture, meaning most of the area is likely to have been deforested at an early date. There is archaeological evidence for settlement and agriculture as far back as the Stone Age. During the late Iron Age, the area was part of the territory of

544-580: A part of the Olympic Park for the 2012 Summer Olympics . Hackney Marsh is one of the largest areas of common land in Greater London, with 136.01 hectares (336.1 acres) of protected commons. The River itself was always an important waterway, being navigable to Hertfordshire ; the Marsh was formed by the periodic flooding of the river, and so formed useful pasture, but could not be occupied permanently. Before

612-597: A small part of Victoria Park was in Hackney, but a minor boundary alteration was made so that the whole park came under the control of Tower Hamlets . The first surviving records of the place name are Hakney (1231) and Hakeneye (1242 and 1294). The name is Old English , but the meaning is not certain. It seems clear however that the 'ey' element refers to an island or a raised or otherwise dry area in marshland. The term 'island' in this context can also mean land situated between two streams. The 'island' may have been beside

680-525: Is a district in East London , England , forming around two-thirds of the area of the modern London Borough of Hackney , to which it gives its name. It is 4 miles (6.4 km) northeast of Charing Cross and includes part of the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park . Historically it was within the county of Middlesex . In the past it was also referred to as Hackney Proper to distinguish it from

748-533: Is also a Eurostar and National Rail station. (International trains are not currently stopping here). Nearby, Hackney Wick is on the Capital Ring walking route, much of which is accessible to cyclists. The River Lea and local canals have a tow path which is accessible for both walking and cycling. The River Lea provides a continuous route to Hertfordshire and Bedfordshire via the Lea Valley Path for

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816-755: Is not known. Hackney's church is first recorded around 1275 and Hackney may have been an independent parish by that time. The parish would have been based on the boundaries of the sub-manor of Hackney at the time it was created. Any boundary changes to the manor after around 1180 would not be reflected in changes to the parish boundaries as, across England, they became fixed at around that time, so that boundaries could no longer be changed at all, despite changes to manorial landholdings – though there were examples of sub-division in some parishes. The manorial system in England had largely broken down in England by 1400, with manors fragmenting and their role being much reduced. The area

884-540: Is not well served by public rail transport, although has many bus services. Access to the Olympic Park is served by Stratford. Lea Bridge station is the closest rail station to the Marshes. It is one stop away from Stratford. The nearest London Overground station are Hackney Wick and Homerton , which are about a twenty-minute walk away. At about thirty minutes walking time, the nearest London Underground stations are Leyton and Stratford . Stratford International

952-625: Is our tower . The battalions would be nicknamed the Hackney Gurkhas or Cockney Gurkhas , names the formation retained in the Second World War. The 1/10th was assigned to the 162nd (East Midland) Brigade in the 54th (East Anglian) Infantry Division , seeing service at Gallipoli and the Middle East, finishing the war in Beirut . The 2/10th was assigned to the 175th (2/3rd London) Brigade , in

1020-564: Is referred to in the (much later) accounts of the battle. Historical records describing this period are extremely sparse, so the historicity of the battle and even Aescwine himself is disputed. The place name Hackney is Old English, so was probably first applied in this era. Hackney was part of the territory of the Middle Saxons , a people who seem to have formed a province of the East Saxons , albeit not part of their core territory. The area

1088-667: Is served by six stations, including by the London Overground at Hackney Central railway station , and it is named after the central area of Hackney, as well as Hackney Downs . Central was open by the North London Railway opened as Hackney on 26 September 1850, to the east of Mare Street. It closed on 1 December 1870 and was replaced the same day by a station to the west of Mare Street, designed by Edwin Henry Horne and also named Hackney . This station passed in due course to

1156-458: Is to be replaced by parkland of comparable size and value on the Hackney side at the end of the 2012 Summer Olympics. It will not be possible to reinstate the loss of mature and varied trees or to compensate for the disruption caused to wildlife by construction. The natural course of the River Lea forms the borough boundary with Waltham Forest and Newham (except for East Marsh, which lies between

1224-558: The 2012 Summer Olympics . A 2005 documentary What Have You Done Today, Mervyn Day ? focused on the history and landscape of the Lower Lea Valley. The film was made by Paul Kelly in conjunction with British pop group Saint Etienne . The Lower Lea Valley can be described as the part to the south of the long chain of reservoirs which end with the East and West Warwick Reservoirs. The Lea changes course at this point, changing from

1292-677: The 58th (2/1st London) Division , fighting on the western front and finishing the war in the Peruwelz area of Belgium. A third Hackney battalion, the 3/10th was based in the UK and used as a training unit, providing reinforcements to the two frontline battalions. During the Second World War , Hackney was badly affected by wartime bombing that left the area with 749 civilian war dead, with many more of its citizens injured or left homeless. Many other Hackney residents were also killed on active service around

1360-645: The Fifth Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party held at the Brotherhood Church on the east side of Southgate Road . The conference was held in the UK after being banned in other countries. Attendees included Lenin , Stalin , Maxim Gorky , Rosa Luxemburg and Leon Trotsky . The congress debated strategy for a communist revolution in Russia and strengthened the position of Lenin's Bolshevik and debated strategy for

1428-530: The Hackney and Leyton Sunday League and the Camden Sunday League . In 2006 there was a dispute between the London Borough of Hackney and Nike, Inc. over the company's use of the borough logo on their sportswear. The dispute was settled with payment of £300,000 going to support local youth sports groups. The annual Hackney Half marathon, taking place in May, starts and finishes at the marshes. Part of

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1496-458: The Lea or perhaps near the confluence of the Hackney Brook and Pigwell Brook in the Hackney Central area. The Oxford Dictionary of English Place Names examined various interpretations of the place name and favoured the interpretation that Hackney means 'Haka's island', with Haka being a notable local person The Dictionary suggests that the 'Hack' element may also derive from: Hackney is

1564-529: The London & North Western Railway and later on to the London, Midland and Scottish Railway , which closed the entire North London Line east of Dalston Junction to passenger traffic in 1944. Downs was opened on 27 May 1872 when the Great Eastern Railway opened the first part of its new line from Enfield Town to Stoke Newington . A pedestrian link between Hackney Downs and Hackney Central stations

1632-553: The London Olympic park for the Summer Olympics of 2012 was built on Hackney Marshes. This caused some controversy with local residents' groups, who expressed concerns that East Marsh was to be tarmacked and used as a disabled coach park for the games. This was a temporary measure. Arena Fields, however, was lost to the Olympic Park and its site will become part of the legacy Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park permanently. This area

1700-508: The Oath of Supremacy . Sutton House , the oldest surviving residential building in the district, was built in 1535. The main ‘Hackney Village’ grew much larger than the others, in 1605 having as many houses as Dalston , Newington (i.e. West Hackney) , Kingsland and Shacklewell combined. In 1727 Daniel Defoe said of the hamlets of Hackney All these, except the Wyck-house , are within

1768-502: The Regents Canal – Hertford Union Canal in part, and for the remainder marches a little to the north of it, with Victoria Park also forming part of the southern boundary. The highest points around Stamford Hill and Clapton Common are over 30m AOD, with the lowest areas being along the River Lea . The Hackney Brook was the largest natural internal watercourse, entering Hackney in the NW, at

1836-442: The village which subsequently developed in the vicinity of Mare Street, the term Hackney Proper being applied to the wider district. Hackney is a large district, whose long established boundaries encompass the sub-districts of Homerton , Dalston (including Kingsland and Shacklewell), De Beauvoir Town , Upper and Lower Clapton , Stamford Hill , Hackney Central , Hackney Wick , South Hackney and West Hackney . Hackney

1904-456: The 10th century, the estuary of the river came as far as Hackney Wick , crossed at Old Ford . Marsh Road, the continuation of Homerton High Street, led to the marshes, and thence to Temple Mills . The Romans appear to have built a significant stone causeway across the marshes here; a periodical, the Ambulator of 1774, noted there have been discovered within the last few years the remains of

1972-463: The 1930s, 1940s and 1960s the area's large Jewish and other minority populations made it a target for provocative rallies by Oswald Mosley and the far-right organisations he founded. These were actively opposed by many local people, together with organisations such as the 43 Group and this led to a number of violent confrontations, notably in the Ridley Road area of Dalston . Hackney was one of

2040-548: The Caribbean, Australia and the far East. The growth of the East End of London was stimulated by the building of Regent's Canal between 1812 and 1816, with construction work on a new town at De Beauvoir beginning in 1823 and continuing through the 1830s. The arrival of the railways, around 1850, accelerated the spread of London and the expansion of the existing nuclei so that Hackney was almost entirely built up by 1870. In 1907,

2108-606: The Chairman of the LCC, Sir John Hutton and were formally dedicated in 1894. The LCC undertook further flood prevention, straightening some of the bends in the River by introducing four 'cuts', the old channels being retained to form islands. There were few houses on the marshes, but a notable exception was the White House Inn, by a bridge on the old road to Leyton . Originally built as part of

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2176-588: The Club was renamed Leyton Orient and their home ground is now the Matchroom Stadium in Brisbane Road , Leyton, E10 5NF. Today the marshes provide many pleasant walks, in reach of the inner city, but the most famous use of Hackney Marshes is for Sunday league football , with 88 full-size football pitches marked out. On a typical Sunday, over 100 matches are played by amateur teams in several local leagues, such as

2244-754: The Lea River Park, a collection of six parks which connect Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park to the Royal Docks and the River Thames ; linked by the Leaway. The redevelopment of the Lea River Park opens up 45 acres (18 ha) of new space creating walkways and cycle paths. The project completes the 26-mile long Lee Valley Regional Park which connects Ware in Hertfordshire to the River Thames. It takes an hour to walk

2312-547: The Metropolis Management (Plumstead and Hackney) Act of 1893. The London Government Act 1899 converted the parishes into Metropolitan Boroughs based on the same boundaries, sometimes with minor rationalisations. Neighbouring Stoke Newington was smaller than the desired size for the new boroughs, and there were proposals to re-merge Stoke Newington and Hackney, or to detach the northern part of Hackney and join it with Stoke Newington. These proposals were rejected due to

2380-557: The Tower meant local men served in the Tower garrison and Tower Hamlets Militia, rather than the Middlesex Militia. This arrangement lasted until 1900. The ancient parishes provided a framework for both civil (administrative) and ecclesiastical (church) functions, but during the nineteenth century, there was a divergence into distinct civil and ecclesiastical parish systems. In London, the ecclesiastical parishes sub-divided to better serve

2448-543: The construction of the Hackney Cut, now forming the western extent of the marsh. The natural watercourse passes to the east over the Middlesex Filter Beds Weir , just below Lea Bridge Road . A nature reserve occupies the former Middlesex Filter beds on the island between the two watercourses. By 1795, the former Templar mills were being used for preparing lead (submerged in urine, and heated by decaying cow dung,

2516-878: The entire Lea River Park with the opportunity to stop off and learn about some of the area's rich history, including: Responsibility for the redevelopment of most of the area was under the remit of the London Thames Gateway Development Corporation until 2012. The area around the Olympic site is now under the control of the London Legacy Development Corporation . Part of the area is an enterprise zone including Silvertown Quays, Royal Albert Dock and Royal Albert Basin. Current areas identified for redevelopment are: 51°33′N 0°1′W  /  51.550°N 0.017°W  / 51.550; -0.017 Hackney, London Hackney

2584-539: The experience of "intolerable and interminable feuds" between the districts when they were previously "forced together" , and because the First Lord of the Treasury , Arthur Balfour recognised that there was "great ill-feeling and mutual ill-will... between the inhabitants of the two districts" . In 1965, Hackney merged with Shoreditch and Stoke Newington to form the new London Borough of Hackney . Prior to 1994,

2652-560: The factories in Homerton . The marshes had always suffered periodic flooding from the Lea but with the introduction of mains sewerage a flood relief sewer was constructed beneath the marshes. Most common and Lammas lands were then preserved by an Act of Parliament and passed to the control of the Metropolitan Board of Works , but the marsh remained excluded from the MBW scheme because many of

2720-468: The foot of the southern foot of Stamford Hill and exiting in the south-east, however, this watercourse was fully culverted in the 19th century. The boundaries of Hackney take in the sub-districts of Homerton , Dalston (including Kingsland and Shacklewell), De Beauvoir Town , Upper and Lower Clapton , Stamford Hill , Hackney Central , Hackney Wick , South Hackney and West Hackney . The Lea and Hackney Marshes are underlain by alluvium soils , and

2788-501: The higher ground between Homerton and Stamford Hill is formed on a widening bed of London Clay . Brickearth deposits are within tongues of clay extending beneath Clapton Common, Stamford Hill and Stoke Newington High Street. The centre and southwestern districts lie on river terrace deposits of Taplow Gravel. The area around Victoria Park and Well Street Common lies on flood plain gravel. It lies approximately 49 feet (15 m) above sea level. Open spaces in Hackney include: Hackney

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2856-422: The host areas when London staged the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games , with three venues falling within its part of the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park : Hackney's solution to affordable housing has been able to put more of it on the market by making use of inclusionary practices. This district built a significant number of affordable units and subsidised them with market-rate units. In Hackney about half of

2924-544: The lammas rights were still exercised, predominantly grazing. This was a period of increasing arguments between landowners and groups, such as the Eton Manor Mission, who were trying to use the marsh for recreation. The 337 acres (1.36 km) of marshes were finally preserved by the London County Council in 1890, by purchasing the rights and landowners' interests for £75,000. They opened to the public in 1893 by

2992-450: The largest and most celebrated plant nurseries in England, Loddiges Paradise Field Nursery, founded by German born Joachim Conrad Loddiges (1738–1826) and continued by his son George Loddiges (1786–1846), and known as The Hackney Botanic Nursery Garden. With its range of heated glasshouses the nursery was famed for displaying newly discovered plants from around the globe including the Americas,

3060-485: The lead was converted to lead oxide, and then finely ground to form a pigment for white, yellow and red lead paint ). A new watermill was established on the Crown land of the marshes by Prince Rupert for an improved method of boring guns, however the secret died with him in 1682 and the enterprise collapsed. At the end of the 19th century Hackney suffered from increased demand for building land, both for housing and to extend

3128-565: The level of the ground. The principal area of the marsh lies below Lea Bridge Road between the Old River Lea , and the Hackney Cut – an artificial channel of the Lee Navigation , dug about 1770, to avoid a loop in the natural watercourse. The southern extent is marked by the A12 ; although the industrial land around Hackney Wick Stadium was originally an extension of the marsh, it now forms

3196-445: The marble example indicate a high-status settlement of some sort. The stone examples had a coin hoard found nearby. The area around Millfields Park, Lower Clapton , is sometimes described as the site of a battle in which Aescwine , having rebelled against Octa , King of Kent , defeats him in battle and became the (reputed) first King of Essex . The ford over the Lea neighbouring Leyton

3264-445: The needs of a growing population, while the civil parishes continued to be based on the same ancient parish areas. The Metropolis Management Act 1855 merged the civil parishes of Hackney and Stoke Newington under a new Hackney District . This proved unpopular, especially in more affluent Stoke Newington, and after four unsuccessful attempts, the two parishes regained their independence when they were separated by mutual consent under

3332-656: The new units are affordable. In an effort to avoid displacing current residents, construction was completed in phases. The outline of Hackney's traditional boundary resembles a right-angled triangle with the right-angle in the SW and the Lower Lea Valley, running NW–SE forming the hypotenuse. The western boundary is based on the N–S axis of the Roman A10, though the sub-district of De Beauvoir Town lies beyond it, as do small areas of Dalston and Stamford Hill. The district's southern boundary follows

3400-516: The partial Viking conquest of the country. A coin of Egbert of Wessex was found on Stamford Hill . The Kings of Wessex divided their kingdom into shires, with Hackney becoming part of the shire of Middlesex , an area named after the Middle Saxons . After their victory at Hastings, the Normans needed to secure London. To this end, they burned Southwark , crossed the river upstream and harried much of Middlesex and Hertfordshire. The Manor of Stepney

3468-646: The particularly determined. Leyton Marsh and the Walthamstow Marshes SSSI are located to the north of Hackney Marshes, and are part of the Lee Valley Regional Park . Lower Lea Valley The Lower Lea Valley is the southern end of the Lea Valley which surrounds the River Lea in eastern Greater London . It is part of the Thames Gateway redevelopment area and was the location of

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3536-422: The powerful Catuvellauni tribe. There will have been a network of probably minor, local roads in Hackney before the Romans conquered southern Britain after 43AD, but the area's proximity to the provincial capital, Londinium , meant that it was soon crossed by two large long-distance routes. The first was Ermine Street (modern A10) which emerged from Bishopsgate and headed north to Lincoln and York. The second

3604-450: The raiders limit their attacks to targets east of the Tower of London. Hackney raised two front-line infantry battalions for the London Regiment during the conflict: the 1/10th (City of London) Battalion (Hackney) and the 2/10th (City of London) Battalion (Hackney) . The battalions had their own cap badge, depicting Hackney's emblem, St Augustine's Tower , together with the borough's motto Justitia Turris Nostra , Latin for Justice

3672-425: The river and Temple Mills ). The Olympic plans included upgrading this watercourse and improving public access. The Olympic Park lies south of the A12 , on industrial land around the former Hackney Stadium . Oh it really is a wery pretty garden And Chingford to the eastward could be seen; 'Wiv a ladder and some glasses, You could see to 'Ackney Marshes, If it wasn't for the 'ouses in between. The area

3740-466: The same pressures would have been experienced here. From the Tudor period onwards, the various settlements in Hackney grew as wealthy Londoners moved to what they saw as a pleasant rural alternative to living in London which was, nonetheless, close to the capital; in some ways it was comparable to a modern commuter town. A number of royal courtiers lived in Homerton , while Henry VIII had a palace at Brooke House , Upper Clapton , where Queen Mary took

3808-409: The spot. Small areas of the marsh have been taken for housing and sports fields and others added. 35.5 acres (144,000 m) were taken in 1915 to build the 'National Projectile Factory'; after World War I , in 1922 this site was used to create the Mabley Green recreation ground. A further 22.5 acres (91,000 m) were taken in 1937 for the building of the Kingsmead Estate . Hackney Power Station

3876-442: The world. The number of devices hitting Hackney was upwards of 613 high explosive bombs, 16 parachute mines , 37 V-1 'doodlebugs' , 10 V-2 rockets and many thousands of 1 kg incendiary devices. Notable buildings destroyed by bombing included Tudor-era Brooke House in Upper Clapton and West Hackney church . The post-war period saw extensive re-building, and the area became increasingly multi-cultural in character. During

3944-402: Was 'owned' by the Templars and used for pasture. When the Templars were abolished, the land passed to the Knights Hospitaller , and thence to the Crown during the Reformation , when monastic lands were seized. At this time, much of the land was associated with the Hackney village of Lower Homerton and with the large manor house at Hackney Wick . Around 1770, the river was straightened by

4012-423: Was a major local employer and closed in 1990. In 1881, men from Homerton College , then still in the London area, founded the Glyn Cricket Club. Members of the cricket club then decided to form a football section to keep fit during the winter months, this football section was to become the famous Clapton Orient Football Club which for thirty years played its home games at Millfields Road Stadium (1900–1930). In 1946

4080-429: Was a part of the huge manor of Stepney , an area owned by the Bishop of London , and its great size and proximity to the City means it may have been part of the grant of land made when the Diocese of London (The East Saxon Diocese) , was re-established in 604 AD. Later, the Middle and East Saxon area would become subject to various other Kingdoms, last among them Wessex , which sought to unite England and roll back

4148-490: Was a route which branched off Ermine Street just outside Bishopsgate and headed SW-NE across Hackney, across the Dalston , Hackney Central and Lower Clapton areas to cross to the Lea on its way to Great Dunmow in Essex . This crossing appears to have crossed the Lea 168 metres south of the Bridge at Mandeville Street near Millfields Road (sometimes known as Pond Lane Bridge). Three Roman sarcophagus burials have been found, two of stone and one of marble. These, particularly

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4216-406: Was achieved by draining the river where it met the River Thames , but the increased drainage affected river navigability, until it was restored in the 17th century. By medieval times, both sides had become counties in England , and attempts were made to control the flow of water through the marshes. Mills were established including the Knights Templar mill at Temple Mills . Much of the marsh

4284-411: Was an administrative unit with consistent boundaries from the early Middle Ages to the creation of the larger modern borough in 1965. It was based for many centuries on the Ancient Parish of Hackney , the largest in Middlesex . Hackney was a sub-Manor of the Manor of Stepney , and the ancient parish of Hackney was an early daughter parish of Stepney, though the date the Hackney parish was established

4352-406: Was around 30% wooded (much of it wood-pasture), about double the English average. Hackney would have had a lower proportion than the county as a whole, consisting of mostly lower land, close to rivers that made it more attractive for farming. The proportion of woodland in England decreased sharply between the Conquest and the Black Death due to the pressure of a rapidly increasing population, and

4420-414: Was less badly hit than much of the rest of Middlesex, though the area along Ermine Street (the A10) , in Hackney, is believed to have been badly affected. The Domesday Book of 1086 covered England at manorial level , so Hackney is only assessed as part of Manor of Stepney , of which it was a sub-manor. The landscape at this time was largely agricultural, Domesday returns for Middlesex indicate that it

4488-439: Was opened in 2015 by London Overground Rail Operations . Until Hackney Central's closure in 1944, a passenger connection had linked the two stations. However, when Hackney Central re-opened in 1985, the footway was not reinstated and passengers transferring between the two stations were obliged to leave one and walk along the street to the other until the link was rebuilt. Hackney Wick opened on 12 May 1980 by British Rail on

4556-400: Was part of the historic (or ancient) county of Middlesex , but military and most (or all) civil county functions were managed more locally, by the Tower Division (also known as the Tower Hamlets) , a historic ‘county within a county’, under the leadership of the Lord-Lieutenant of the Tower Hamlets (the post was always filled by the Constable of the Tower of London) . The military loyalty to

4624-444: Was situated to the north west of the marshes, across the Lee Navigation , and operated between 1901 and 1976. Between the 1970s and 1990s, a camping site was situated at the north end of the Marshes, adjacent to Cow Bridge, at one point branded as Tent City. The Lesney die cast model factory was built on the Homerton side of the Lee Navigation in the 1940s, having success for many years with their Matchbox brand. The factory

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