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65-539: Dartmoor is an upland area in southern Devon , South West England . The moorland and surrounding land has been protected by National Park status since 1951. Dartmoor National Park covers 954 km (368 sq mi). The granite that forms the uplands dates from the Carboniferous Period of geological history. The landscape consists of moorland capped with many exposed granite hilltops known as tors , providing habitats for wildlife. The highest point

130-565: A few recorded examples of earlier names by which Haytor was known. The name Haytor is of comparatively recent origin, and is probably a corruption of its old name and that of the Haytor Hundred , which covered the coastal area between the River Teign and River Dart , itself now considered to have been named after a lost village located somewhere between Totnes and Newton Abbot. In the 19th century steps were made to allow pedestrians up to

195-503: A more complete list see List of Dartmoor tors and hills . The high ground of Dartmoor forms the catchment area for many of Devon's rivers. As well as shaping the landscape, these have traditionally provided a source of power for moor industries such as tin mining and quarrying. The moor takes its name from the River Dart , which starts as the East Dart and West Dart and then becomes

260-625: A mysterious pack of " spectral hounds ", and a large black dog , among others. During the Great Thunderstorm of 1638, the moorland village of Widecombe-in-the-Moor was said to have been visited by the Devil . Highland (geography) Probably the best-known area officially or unofficially referred to as highlands in the Anglosphere is the Scottish Highlands in northern Scotland ,

325-649: A number do not. However, this does not appear to relate to whether or not there is an outcrop of rock on their summit. The tors are the focus of an annual event known as the Ten Tors Challenge , when around 2,400 people aged between 14 and 19 walk for distances of 56, 72 or 88 km (35, 45 or 55 mi) between ten tors on many differing routes. The highest points on Dartmoor are on the northern moor: High Willhays , 621 m (2,037 ft), ( grid reference SX 580892 ) and Yes Tor , 619 m (2,031 ft), ( grid reference SX 581901 ). The highest points on

390-472: A number of migrant species, like the pied flycatcher , the wood warbler or the common redstart . Mammals found here include otters, hazel dormice and nearly all of the UK's 16 bat species. Three rare species: the barbastelle , and the greater and lesser horseshoe bats are of particular importance. The upper reaches of the rivers are spawning grounds for Salmon and trout ; Palmate newts , frogs and toads breed in

455-469: A person's feet. Quakers result from sphagnum moss growing over the water that accumulates in the hollows in the granite. The vegetation of the bogs depends on the type and location. Blanket bog , which forms on the highest land where the rainfall exceeds 2,000 millimetres (79 in) a year, consists mainly of cotton-grass ( Eriophorum species), sedges ( Carex and Rhynchospora ), Bog Asphodel and Common Tormentil , with Sphagnum thriving in

520-879: A single river at Dartmeet . It leaves the moor at Buckfastleigh , flowing through Totnes below where it opens up into a long ria , reaching the sea at Dartmouth . Other rivers flowing from Dartmoor include the Teign , the Taw , the Tavy , the Avon , and the Lyd . Some of the rivers in Dartmoor have been dammed to create reservoirs for drinking water , including the River Avon and the South Teign River (Fernworthy Reservoir). Much more rain falls on Dartmoor than in

585-434: A species found nowhere else in the world. The South West Peatland Project aims to restore around 300 hectares of Dartmoor's peatland through collaboration with Dartmoor National Park . Preserving these peatlands will help mitigate climate change through sequestering carbon from the atmosphere. More generally, Dartmoor aims to be carbon negative by 2045. The majority of the prehistoric remains on Dartmoor date back to

650-585: Is High Willhays , 621 m (2,037 ft) above sea level. The entire area is rich in antiquities and archaeological artefacts . Dartmoor National Park is managed by the Dartmoor National Park Authority , whose 22 members are drawn from Devon County Council , local district councils and Government. The Dartmoor Commoners' Council exists to create and enforce regulations regarding commoners' rights. Parts of Dartmoor have been used as military firing ranges for over 200 years. The public

715-418: Is associated with the Dartmoor pluton as with other such plutons . Measurement of the anomaly has helped to determine the likely shape and extent of the rock mass at depth. Dartmoor is known for its tors – hills topped with outcrops of bedrock, which in granite country such as this are usually rounded boulder-like formations. More than 160 of the hills of Dartmoor have the word tor in their name but quite

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780-522: Is at least five times as frequent. On the highest ground, in the north of the moor, the growing season is less than 175 days – this contrasts with some 300 days along most of the south coast of the county. Rainfall tends to be associated with Atlantic depressions or with convection. In summer, convection caused by solar surface heating sometimes forms shower clouds and a large proportion of rainfall comes from showers and thunderstorms at this time of year. The wettest months are November and December and on

845-430: Is believed that they would have had a conical roof, supported by timbers and covered in turf or thatch. There are also numerous kistvaens , Neolithic stone box-like tombs. The climate became wetter and cooler over the course of a thousand years from around 1000 BC, resulting in much of high Dartmoor being largely abandoned by its early inhabitants. The earliest surviving farms, still in operation today, are known as

910-461: Is granted extensive land access rights on Dartmoor (including restricted access to the firing ranges) and it is a popular tourist destination. Dartmoor includes the largest area of granite in Britain, with about 625 km (241 sq mi) at the surface, though most of it is under superficial peat deposits. The granite (or more specifically adamellite ) was intruded at depth as a pluton into

975-603: Is possibly a surviving fragment from the earliest Neolithic woodland clearances. It is home to exceptional epiphytic mosses, liverworts and lichens. Nearly 50 species of moss and liverwort are found in the wood along with 120 types of lichen , including Smith's horsehair lichen, speckled sea-storm lichen and pendulous wing-moss. Over 60 species of lichens grow on the exposed surfaces of the granite tors, including granite-speck rim-lichen, purple rock lichen, brown cobblestone lichen and goldspot lichen and many rare lichen grow on rocks exposed by mining that are rich in heavy metals . On

1040-448: Is remote from many sources of light pollution . However, in recent years, LED street lights have caused more light pollution to be spread onto Dartmoor. Along with the rest of South West England , Dartmoor has a temperate climate , which is generally wetter and milder than locations at similar height in the rest of England. At Princetown , near the centre of the moor at a height of 453 metres (1,486 ft), January and February are

1105-592: Is the Central Highlands area, which covers most of the central-western parts of the state. Many of these areas are highly elevated alpine regions. The Ozarks cover nearly 120,000 square kilometres (46,000 sq mi), making it the most extensive highland region between the Appalachians and Rockies. This region contains some of the oldest rocks in North America. The spine of the mountains stretches across

1170-494: The Ancient Tenements . Most of these date back to the 14th century, and some even earlier. It was not until the early Mediaeval period that the weather again became warmer, and settlers moved back onto the moors. Like their ancient predecessors, they used the natural granite to build their homes, preferring a style known as the longhouse ; some of theses are still inhabited today, although they have been clearly adapted over

1235-677: The Cambrian Mountains in Wales . Many countries and regions also have areas referred to as highlands . These include parts of Afghanistan , Tibet , Ethiopia , Canada , Kenya , Eritrea , Yemen , Ghana , Nigeria , Papua New Guinea , Syria , Turkey and Cantabria . Similar terms used in other countries include high country , used in New Zealand , New South Wales , Victoria , Tasmania and Southern Queensland in Australia , and parts of

1300-472: The Dartmoor Commons Act 1985 much of it has been designated as access land , which, although it remains privately owned, has no restrictions on where walkers can roam. In addition to this access land, there are about 730 km (450 mi) of public rights of way on Dartmoor, and many kilometres of permitted footpaths and bridleways where the owners allow access. Because of the 1985 Act, Dartmoor

1365-614: The Moon . Haytor Haytor , also known as Haytor Rocks , Hay Tor , or occasionally Hey Tor , is a granite tor on the eastern edge of Dartmoor in the English county of Devon . The tor is at grid reference SX757770 , near the village of Haytor Vale in the parish of Ilsington . There is an electoral ward with the same name. The population at the 2011 census is 2,862. Idetordoune (1566), Ittor Doune (1687), Idetor (1737), Eator Down (1762) and Itterdown (1789) are

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1430-638: The United States (notably Western North Carolina ), highveld , used in South Africa and Roof of the World , used for Tibet . The central Afghan highlands are in the center of Afghanistan , mostly located between 2,000 and 3,000 m above sea level. They have a very cold winter, and a short and cool summer. These highlands have mountain pastures during summer ( sardsīr ), watered by many small streams and rivers. There are also pastures available during winter in

1495-427: The marsh fritillary butterfly, southern damselfly, narrow-bordered bee hawkmoth and bog hoverfly . Areas of bracken are home to the high brown fritillary and pearl-bordered fritillary . Insects found in the heathlands include the emperor moth , green hairstreak and the bilberry bumblebee . The old oak woodlands have a distinctive group of insects including the blue ground beetle and Heckford's pygmy moth ,

1560-478: The moors topped with granite tors are the most iconic part of Dartmoor's landscape, only about half of Dartmoor is actually moorland. Equally important for wildlife are the blanket bogs , upland heaths and the oak woodlands, which are all of global importance. Dartmoor is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) with four habitats ( Northern Atlantic wet heaths with Erica tetralix ; European dry heaths ; Blanket bog s and Old sessile oak woods with Ilex and Blechnum in

1625-456: The British Isles ) being listed as primary reasons for the selection of Dartmoor as a SAC. In addition the area has a population of the southern damselfly , which is also a primary reason for its selection along with populations of Atlantic salmon and otter being qualifying reasons. Wistman's Wood is one of the old sessile oak woods that contribute to the listing of Dartmoor as a SAC and

1690-511: The MoD does not notify the public of this in advance. Some "challenge" and charitable events take place with assistance of the military on Dartmoor, including the long established Ten Tors event and the more recent Dartmoor Beast. The disused Rippon Tor Rifle Range was built to train soldiers during the Second World War, and remained in use until its closure in 1977. Throughout human history,

1755-523: The National Park are Ashburton (the largest, with a population of about 3,500), Buckfastleigh , Moretonhampstead , Princetown , Yelverton , Horrabridge , South Brent , Christow , and Chagford . For a full list, expand the Settlements of Dartmoor navigational box at the bottom of this page. Dartmoor is known for its myths and legends. It is reputedly the haunt of pixies , a headless horseman ,

1820-783: The acidification of the soil and the accumulation of peat and bogs . After a few thousand years, the mild climate deteriorated. This left these areas uninhabited, and, consequently, relatively undisturbed to the present day. The highly acidic soil has ensured that no organic remains have survived, but the durability of the granite has meant that the remains of buildings, enclosures and monuments have survived well, as have flint tools. A number of remains were "restored" by enthusiastic Victorians and, in some cases, they have placed their own interpretation on how an area may have looked. Numerous prehistoric menhirs (more usually referred to locally as standing stones or longstones), stone circles , kistvaens , cairns and stone rows are to be found on

1885-516: The buildings themselves and its physical location. The Dartmoor landscape is scattered with the marks left by the many generations who have lived and worked there over the centuries – such as the remains of the Dartmoor tin-mining industry, and farmhouses long since abandoned. See Industrial archaeology of Dartmoor . Over half of Dartmoor National Park (57.3%) is private land; the Forest of Dartmoor being

1950-501: The centuries. Many are now used as farm buildings, while others have been abandoned and fallen into ruin. Some way into the moor stands the town of Princetown , the site of Dartmoor Prison , which was originally built by Isbell Rowe & Company, Plymouth, for prisoners of war from the Napoleonic Wars and the War of 1812 . The prison has a reputation for being escape-proof, due to both

2015-401: The chancellor of the high court, ruled: "In my judgment, on the first issue set out at [14] above, the claimants are entitled to the declaration they seek that, on its true construction, section 10(1) of the 1985 Act does not confer on the public any right to pitch tents or otherwise make camp overnight on Dartmoor Commons. Any such camping requires the consent of the landowner." A protest against

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2080-407: The coldest months with mean minimum temperatures around 1 °C (34 °F). July and August are the warmest months with mean daily maxima not reaching 18 °C (64 °F). Compared with Teignmouth , which is on the coast about 22 miles (35 km) to the east, the average maximum and minimum temperatures are 3.0 °C (5.4 °F) and 2.6 °C (4.7 °F) lower respectively, and frost

2145-629: The endemic vertebrates are restricted to this ecoregion. The highlands of Iceland cover about 40% of the country and are mostly inhospitable to humans. They are generally considered to be any land above 500 m. The mountainous natural region of the Thai highlands is found in Northern Thailand. The Cameron Highlands is a highland area and hill station in Northern Malaysia. Shillong in India in

2210-400: The form of a typical "avenue" tor, where the granite between the two main outcrops has been eroded away. Its characteristic shape is a notable landmark visible on the skyline from many places in south Devon between Exeter and Totnes . The majority of the tor consists of coarse-grained granite, but at the base of the western outcrop is a layer of finer-grained granite which has eroded more than

2275-583: The highest parts of the moor the average annual total rainfall is over 2,000 millimetres (79 in). This compares with less than 800 millimetres (31 in) in the lower land to the east around the Exe Estuary , which is in the rain shadow of the moor. Due to the influence of the Gulf Stream snowfall is not common, though due to its high altitude it is more vulnerable to snowfall than surrounding regions. Between 1961 and 1990 Met Office data shows that there

2340-501: The integrity of the moor; however, the cost of compensating companies for these licences, which may not have been granted in today's political climate, could prove prohibitive. The military use of the moor has been another source of controversy, as when training was extended in January 2003. The national park authority received 1,700 objections before making the decision. Objectors said that Dartmoor should be an area for recreation, and that

2405-593: The island of New Guinea, forming the densely populated highlands of Papua New Guinea , and the Highland Papua , Indonesia . The Central Highlands of Sri Lanka are rain forests, where the elevation reaches 2,500 m (8,200 ft) above sea level. The Sri Lanka montane rain forests represent the montane and submontane moist forests above 1,000 m (3,300 ft) in the central highlands and in the Knuckles mountain range . Half of Sri Lanka's endemic flowering plants and 51 percent of

2470-607: The landscape has been exploited for industrial purposes. In recent years, controversy has surrounded the work of industrial conglomerates Imerys and Sibelco (formerly Watts Blake Bearne), who have used parts of the moor for china clay mining. Licences were granted by the British Government but were recently renounced after sustained public pressure from bodies such as the Dartmoor Preservation Association . The British government has made promises to protect

2535-504: The late Neolithic and early Bronze Age . Indeed, Dartmoor contains the largest concentration of Bronze Age remains in the United Kingdom, which suggests that this was when a larger population moved onto the hills of Dartmoor. The large systems of Bronze Age fields, divided by reaves , cover an area of over 10,000 hectares (39 sq mi) of the lower moors. The climate at the time was warmer than today, and much of today's moorland

2600-621: The major part of this, owned by the Duke of Cornwall . The Ministry of Defence owns 14% (see below), 3.8% is owned by water companies (see Dartmoor reservoirs ), 3.7% by the National Trust , 1.8% by the Forestry Commission and 1.4% by Dartmoor's national park authority . About 37% of Dartmoor is common land . Dartmoor differs from some other National Parks in England and Wales , in that since

2665-456: The moor, it provides views of the coastline, the Teign Estuary and the rolling countryside between, with the ridge of Haldon behind. In 2013, Simon Jenkins rated the view from Haytor as one of the top ten in England. The smaller, western outcrop is sometimes known as "Lowman". Rock climbers make use of both outcrops; each has routes of varying difficulty. The road that passes below

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2730-502: The moor. The most significant sites include: There are also an estimated 5,000 hut circles still surviving although many have been raided over the centuries by the builders of the traditional dry stone walls. These are the remnants of Bronze Age houses. The smallest are around 1.8 m (6 ft) in diameter, and the largest may be up to five times this size. Some have L-shaped porches to protect against wind and rain; some particularly good examples are to be found at Grimspound . It

2795-735: The mountainous region north and west of the Highland Boundary Fault . The Highland council area is a local government area in the Scottish Highlands and Britain's largest local government area. Other highland or upland areas reaching 400 m or higher in the United Kingdom include the Southern Uplands in Scotland, the Pennines , North York Moors , Dartmoor and Exmoor in England , and

2860-563: The neighboring warm lowlands ( garmsīr ), which makes the region ideal for seasonal transhumance . The highlands in Australia are often above the elevation of 500 m. These areas often receive snowfall in winter. Most of the highlands lead up to large alpine or sub-alpine mountainous regions such as the Australian Alps , Snowy Mountains , Great Dividing Range , Northern Tablelands and Blue Mountains . The most mountainous region of Tasmania

2925-515: The new restrictions, led by local storyteller Martin Shaw, was held in January 2023. However, on 31 July the ban was overturned by the Court of Appeal. There is a history of military usage of Dartmoor dating back to the Napoleonic Wars . Today, a large British Army training camp remains at Okehampton — also the site of an airbase during the Second World War. The Ministry of Defence (MoD) uses three areas of

2990-446: The northern moor for manoeuvres and live-firing exercises, totalling 108.71 km (41.97 sq mi), or just over 11% of the National Park. Red and white posts mark the boundaries of these military areas (shown on Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 scale maps). Flagpoles on many tors in and around the ranges fly red flags when firing is taking place. At other times, members of the public are allowed access. Blank rounds may also be used, but

3055-446: The numerous small pools. Two shrimp species can be found on Dartmoor: fairy shrimp that can be found in temporary pools, and, in underground streams, very rare cave shrimp. The world's largest land slug, the Ash black , is also found. Reptiles include common lizards and adders . The farmland in the wet valleys around the edge of the moors is the most important habitat for insects, including:

3120-561: The rock above, leaving a pronounced overhang (a rock shelter ) of two or three feet in places. Haytorite, a variety of quartz found in an iron mine adjacent to the Hay Tor granite quarries, was named “in honour of its birth-place”. The granite below the tor has fewer large feldspar crystals than at the tor itself, and this was preferred for building. There are several quarries on the northern slopes of Haytor down which were worked intermittently between 1820 and 1919. Between 1820 and 1858

3185-577: The rock from these quarries was transported by the Haytor Granite Tramway to the Stover Canal . The tramway itself was built out of the granite it would carry, and due to its durable nature much of it remains visible today. Haytor granite was used in the reconstruction of London Bridge which opened in 1831 and was moved in 1970 to Lake Havasu City in Arizona. The last rock quarried here in 1919

3250-498: The rock. In 1953, Haytor was used as a major location for the feature film Knights of the Round Table starring Robert Taylor and Ava Gardner . An "elaborate and impressive castle" was built between the two main rock piles of the tor and traditional medieval sports, including jousting , were staged here for the film. The whole of Haytor Down was sold to the newly formed Dartmoor National Park Authority in 1974. Haytor has

3315-440: The southern moor are Ryder's Hill , 515 m (1,690 ft), ( grid reference SX 660690 ), Snowdon 495 m (1,624 ft), ( grid reference SX 668684 ), and an unnamed point, 493 m (1,617 ft) at ( grid reference SX 603645 ), between Langcombe Hill and Shell Top. The best-known tor on Dartmoor is Haytor (called Hey Tor by William Crossing), 457 m (1,499 ft), ( grid reference SX 757771 ). For

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3380-525: The state of Meghalaya is a hill station that is surrounded by highlands. Officers of the British Raj referred to Shillong as "The Scotland of the East". Highland continents —or terrae —are areas of topographically unstable terrain , with high peaks and valleys. They resemble highlands on Earth , but the term is applied to much larger areas on other planets. They can be found on Mercury , Venus , Mars , and

3445-457: The story of a man who was making his way through Aune Mire at the head of the River Avon when he came upon a top-hat brim down on the surface of the mire. He kicked it, whereupon a voice called out: "What be you a-doin' to my 'at?" The man replied, "Be there now a chap under'n?" "Ees, I reckon," was the reply, "and a hoss under me likewise." Dartmoor is popular with local astronomers because it

3510-416: The surrounding lowlands. As much of the national park is covered in thick layers of peat (decaying vegetation), the rain is usually absorbed quickly and distributed slowly, so the moor is rarely dry. In areas where water accumulates, dangerous bogs or mires can result. Some of these, topped with bright green moss, are known to locals as "feather beds" or "quakers", because they can shift (or 'quake') beneath

3575-471: The surrounding sedimentary rocks during the Carboniferous period, probably about 309 million years ago. It is generally accepted that the present surface is not far below the original top of the pluton; evidence for this includes partly digested shale xenoliths , contamination of the granite and the existence of two patches of altered sedimentary rock on top of the granite. A considerable gravity anomaly

3640-424: The top of the tor and a metal handrail fixed to allow tourists easier access to the summit. This was not entirely welcomed and in 1851, a Dr Croker complained about the rock steps that had been cut "to enable the enervated and pinguedinous scions of humanity of this wonderful nineteenth century to gain the summit". The handrail was removed in the 1960s due to it rusting: the stumps of the uprights are still embedded in

3705-521: The training disturbs the peace. Those who objected included the Open Spaces Society and the Dartmoor Preservation Association . During her lifetime, Sylvia Sayer was another outspoken critic of the damage that she perceived that the army was doing to the moor. The designated Dartmoor National Park area has a resident population of about 33,000, which swells considerably during holiday periods with incoming tourists. The largest settlements within

3770-438: The upland heaths heather ( ling ) and bell heather are common along with western gorse . In dry grassy areas tormentil , heath bedstraw and heath milkwort are all common. Cross-leaved heath and purple moor grass grow in wetter spots and in the boggy areas many different species of sphagnum and other mosses can be found, along with liverworts , Hare's-tail Cotton-grass , round-leaved sundew and bog asphodel , and in

3835-419: The valley bottoms, many different sedges , bogbean and pale butterwort all grow. A large variety of bird species can be found on Dartmoor including ones that have declined elsewhere in the UK, such as skylark and common snipe ; some are even rare nationally, such as the ring ouzel and the cuckoo . There are internationally important populations of meadow pipit and stonechat . Woodland birds include

3900-547: The wettest patches. The valley bogs have lush growth of rushes , with sphagnum, cross-leaved heath , sundews and several other species. Some of the bogs on Dartmoor have achieved notoriety. Fox Tor Mires was supposedly the inspiration for Great Grimpen Mire in Conan Doyle's novel The Hound of the Baskervilles , although there is a waymarked footpath across it. Sabine Baring-Gould , in his Book of Dartmoor (1900) related

3965-408: Was an average of 20 days when snow fell on the moor, and over 40 days a year with hail, which is as high as anywhere else in the country. This results when cold polar maritime air that has travelled over a large expanse of warmer ocean is forced to rise over high country. When average temperatures at Princetown between 1961 and 2000 are compared, the average annual temperature in the decade 1990–2000

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4030-401: Was covered with trees. The prehistoric settlers began clearing the forest, and established the first farming communities. Fire was the main method of clearing land, creating pasture and swidden types of fire-fallow farmland. Areas less suited for farming tended to be burned for livestock grazing. Over the centuries these Neolithic practices greatly expanded the upland moors, and contributed to

4095-468: Was largely unaffected by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000 , which established similar rights in other rural parts of the country, until 2006, when the 2000 Act opened up much of the remaining restricted land to walkers. In January 2023, in a high court judgement in a case brought by landowner Alexander Darwall , the right for members of the public to wild camp on Dartmoor was lost. Julian Flaux ,

4160-437: Was up by 0.2 °C (0.4 °F) and the late winter temperature increased by 0.5 °C (0.9 °F). Because of Dartmoor's height and granite geology, it experiences strong winds and has acidic soils. In consequence it has been subject to very little intensive farming , and all these factors combine to form the basis of the important ecosystems found here. The landscape is one of granite with peat bogs overlying it. While

4225-449: Was used for the Exeter war memorial . Haytor rocks and quarries are protected from development and disturbance as a Site of Special Scientific Interest . The area is considered a natural beauty spot and is arguably Dartmoor's most famous landmark, visited by coach parties and walking groups. It is accessible by road and at a height of 457 metres (1,499 ft) right on the eastern side of

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