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104-416: Zgharta is about 150 metres above sea level and lies between the rivers of Jouit and Rashein. It is 23 kilometres from Ehden , 11 kilometres from the coastal city of Tripoli , 88.7 kilometres from the capital of Lebanon , Beirut , and 82 kilometres from the nearest Syrian city, Tartous . Its history and people are closely associated with the village of Ehden , a summer resort and touristic center. Most of

208-629: A Sunni militia which controlled the harbour and was backed by the PLO , and the Alawite Arab Democratic Party ’s militia. The ADP were backed by the communist Red Knights as well as Syrian special forces. After a week of fighting which saw around 150 killed, 4500 wounded and 200,000 people leaving their homes, the Syrians brokered a truce which involved the Syrian army occupying five key positions and

312-555: A copy of that document with another historian, Father Youhana Maroun Farah el Seb'ali, who had copied it from Monsignor Saade in 1904. It says: "Ehden is a very old village located in the north of Mount Lebanon. It used to be known as 'Patchilassar' a Persian pronunciation meaning 'the paradise of the area'. It is enriched with fresh water, trees and a breathtaking water stream called Mar Sarkis bursts off its eastern mountain. A tribe related to Sam, son of Noah settled in Ehden, which later became

416-548: A cross that was placed on top of its entrance, but vanished in 1935. Nevertheless, Al-Semaani wrote in his book The Eastern Library that he witnessed those cross-engraved stones in Hassroun, Bsharri, Ehden and Aytou. Mar Mama church, which was built in 748, is considered as one of the oldest Maronite churches in Lebanon. Father La Monse described it as “an eighth-century church built over a destroyed Byzantine church (sixth century) which

520-1104: A curiously shaped corniche, doorway or moulded window frame. Among the finest is the madrassa al-Burtasiyah, with an elegant façade picked out in black and white stones and a highly decorated lintel over the main door. Public buildings in Mamluk Tripoli were emphasized through sitting, façade treatment, and street alignment. Well-cut and well-dressed stones (local sandstone) were used as media of construction and for decorative effects on elevations and around openings (the ablaq technique of alternating light and dark stone courses). Bearing walls were used as vertical supports. Cross vaults covered most spaces from prayer halls to closed rectangular rooms, to galleries around courtyards. Domes were constructed over conspicuous and important spaces like tomb chambers, mihrab , and covered courtyards. Typical construction details in Mamluk Tripoli included cross vaults with concave grooves meeting in octagonal openings or concave rosettes as well as simple cupolas or ribbed domes. The use of double drums and corner squinches

624-577: A famous site." In 1264 the people of Ehden supported the Crusades in their battle for the town of Tripoli . In 1283 the army of the Mamluk Sultan Qalawun invaded Mount Lebanon and burnt Ehden. In 1586, Ehden was burnt again according to a found manuscript but it does not mention by whom, all it says that "Ehden was burnt in the year 1897 of the Greek calendar" which means the year 1586 CE. In 1610

728-526: A financial center and main port of northern Phoenicia with sea trade (East Mediterranean and the West), and caravan trade (North Syria and hinterland). Under the Seleucids , Tripoli gained the right to mint its own coins (112 BCE); it was granted autonomy between 104 and 105, which it retained until 64 BCE. At the time, Tripoli was a center of shipbuilding and cedar timber trade (like other Phoenician cities). During

832-458: A fine example of the architecture of that time. The oldest among them were built with stones taken from 12th and 13th-century churches; the characteristics of the architecture of the period are best seen in the mosques and madrassas , the Islamic schools. It is the madrassas which most attract attention, for they include highly original structures as well as decoration: here a honeycombed ceiling, there

936-471: A gravesite next to the church, but could hardly be recognized. As for the Syriac writing, “Rinan” translated the remainder of its meaning in his book titled “Phoenician Mission” as follows: “In the name of God who is capable of resurrecting the dead. In the year one of Alexander …. Marcos had lived and died.” There is also a historical writing, which was transferred to France and is preserved in its Paris museum in

1040-529: A heterogeneous population including Western Europeans , Greeks , Armenians , Maronites , Nestorians , Jews , and Muslims . During that time, Tripoli witnessed the growth of the inland settlement surrounding the "Pilgrim's Mountain" (the Citadel of Tripoli ) into a built-up suburb including the main religious monuments of the city such as: The "Church of the Holy Sepulchre of Pilgrim's Mountain" (incorporating

1144-582: A high rate of urban growth and a fast city development (according to traveler's accounts). It also had poles of growth including the fortress, the Great Mosque , and the river banks. The city had seven guard towers on the harbor site to defend the inland city, including what still stands today as the Lion Tower . During the period the castle of Saint-Gilles was expanded as the Citadel of Mamluk Tripoli. The "Aqueduct of

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1248-621: A number of different names as far back as the Phoenician age. In the Amarna letters the name Derbly , possibly a Semitic cognate of the city's modern Arabic name Ṭarābulus , was mentioned, and in other places Ahlia or Wahlia are mentioned (14th century BCE). In an engraving concerning the invasion of Tripoli by the Assyrian King Ashurnasirpal II (888–859 BCE), it is called Mahallata or Mahlata , Mayza , and Kayza . Under

1352-431: A public hospital operating throughout the year, plus medical surgeries, chemists, official centres, post and phone centre, summer schools. Ehden is a site for art events such as hosting cultural and art galleries, stage theatre, open air plays, lectures and forums held by Zghartians and Lebanese thinkers and intellectuals. The earliest churches in Ehden are those built over the site of a pagan temple. A large pagan temple

1456-494: A request by their guests, the people of Ehden endeavoured to clear the heavy snow off the road as far as Hayrouna Valley overlooking the coast, accompanying their guests to safety where they made their farewells to them with fitting accolades. In April 1516, Bishop El Douaihy and Sheikh Iskandar received a letter from Al-Ghazali, saying on being told by his minister, Sinan Pasha of their and peoples hospitality and assistance, Sultan Salim I asked that he rewarded them which he promised

1560-689: A shipyard, since the Ottoman rule and until this day a ship and marine contractor. It was also known as St Thomas Island during the Crusades. The opposite of Palms Island, which is a large flat sandy beach, is Ramkin Island . This island is largely made up of cliffs and rocks. The Citadel of Tripoli is also known as the Castle of Saint-Gilles ( Arabic : قلعة سان جيل Qalʻat Sān Jīl ; French : Château Saint-Gilles ), in reference to Raymond de Saint-Gilles , who dominated

1664-490: A vibrant hub of creativity, thought, and spirituality, making it an important destination for anyone interested in Lebanon's rich cultural heritage. Some early texts mention that the people of Ehden are descendants of the tribe of Shem , the son of Noah. - 850 BCE: the Aramean king Hadadezer came to Ehden and rebuilt it, hoisting a statue of its god known then as “Baal Loubnan” or “The God of Snow” - 700 BCE: Sennacherib ,

1768-646: A vital natural forestry reserve with a variety of 40 different types of native plants such as cedars, fir, pine, elm and many others. In addition, 400 different distinctive plants have been identified, of which 66 grow only in Lebanon, and 11 are endemic to Ehden. Some of Ehden’s distinctive plants are: Distinctive trees include: Tripoli, Lebanon Tripoli ( / ˈ t r ɪ p əl i / TRIP -əl-ee ; Arabic : طَرَابُلُس , ALA-LC : Ṭarābulus , pronounced [tˤaˈraːbulus] ; Lebanese Arabic : طرابلس , romanized:  Ṭrāblus , locally [ˈtˤrɔːblɪs] ; see below )

1872-479: Is a famous summer resort and touristic center, often called "The Bride of Summer Resorts in the North of Lebanon." Gastronomy is one of the most prominent tourist attractions in Ehden, especially in summer. Kebbeh meshwyeh (krass) and the kebbeh nayyeh , both traditional dishes, and particularly notable in this town. Ehden is derived from Aramaic , meaning "the mountain’s base and slope". The location of Ehden at

1976-530: Is a small village surrounded by an enclosure, and has a fortress beside the church of Virgin Mary. Zgharta used to be a drawn line between danger and worship, situated between Tripoli and the mountain. It would receive initial attacking strikes, then reply by returning those strikes, hitting the hearts of their enemy. Its people have therefore been renowned and recognised as excellent fighters" Another later visitor in 1831 records that "From Tripoli I left for Zgharta, which

2080-511: Is also given the title of "City of Knowledge and Scholars" (Arabic: طرابلس مدينة العلم والعلماء , romanized:  Ṭarābulus madīnat al-ʿilm wa-l-ʿulamāʾ ). Evidence of settlement in Tripoli dates back as early as 1400 BCE. Tripoli was originally established as a Phoenician colony in the 8th century BC. There, the Phoenicians established a trading station and later, under Persian rule,

2184-563: Is also home to the Ehden Forest, with a variety of trees, plants, flowers, and rare animals. The forest was declared a protected nature reserve by the Lebanese government in 1992. Ehden’s forest is on the northeast side of Ehden and is an area of 3000 hectares, with a 1300- to 2000-metre elevation from sea level. The approximate elevation is 1893 metres at Al-Jafieh, 1550 metres at Ayn Naasah and 1440 metres at Ayn al-Baq valley. The forest embraces

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2288-468: Is attributable, in part, to the city's dysfunctional politics, in which a fragmented array of Sunni political figures (such as Saad Hariri , Najib Mikati , Faisal Karami , and Ashraf Rifi ) vie for influence through competing networks of patronage: "No single leader has been able to assert dominance, leaving city politics to devolve into chaos." Tripoli has a majority Arab , Sunni Muslim population in neighborhoods such as Bab al-Tabbaneh, right next to

2392-510: Is concentrated in the winter months, with the summer typically being very dry. Tripoli has many offshore islands. The Palm Islands Nature Reserve , or the Rabbits' Island, is the largest of the islands with an area of 20 ha (49 acres). The name "Araneb" or Rabbits comes from the great numbers of rabbits that were grown on the island during the time of the French mandate early in the 20th century. It

2496-452: Is located in the central northern side of Mount Lebanon, with a 1500-metre (at Midan square) elevation from sea level. It is 120 kilometres (75 mi) from Beirut, 30 kilometres (19 mi) from Tripoli and 25 kilometres (16 mi) from Zgharta. Ehden used to be the sole residence for Zghartians prior to the establishment of Zgharta. It is known for its dry climate, water and forest. It is a renowned summer location, famous for its setting on

2600-677: Is now a nature reserve for green turtles, rare birds and rabbits. Declared as a protected area by UNESCO in 1992, camping, fire building or other depredation is forbidden. In addition to its scenic landscape, the Palm Island is also a cultural heritage site. Evidence for human occupation, dated back to the Crusader period, was uncovered during 1973 excavations by the General Directorate of Antiquities. The Bakar Islands, also known as Abdulwahab Island, were leased to Adel and Khiereddine Abdulwahab as

2704-424: Is now held by his grandson Youssef Boutros Romanos Yammine. It describes how people of Ehden had acquired "the farmland of Zgharta": On the eve of the 24th of January 1515, Al-Ghazali , the governor of Damascus , along with Sinan Pasha , the minister of Sultan Selim I , had reached Ehden travelling along the route of Damascus-Bekaa Valley-Dahr al-Kadib-the cedars. They were transporting funds to Sultan Salim I who

2808-567: Is situated at an altitude of around 120m above sea level. The main and old city of Zgharta is situated between the two rivers of Rachiine and Jouit which merge forming the Abu Ali River which then passes through the city of Tripoli . Zgharta is situated at the steps of the Northern Mount Lebanon range in a not-too-hilly but very fertile agricultural area, mainly due to the rivers that flow through it. Olives, oranges and lettuce were

2912-459: Is some evidence that the area of Zgharta was later inhabited in 200 BC and that in the 2nd and 3rd centuries there were already fortifications. Its present-day existence and its close association with the village of Ehden began in the 16th century. The story of that beginning is recorded in a manuscript in the Syriac language, which belonged to Romanos Afandi Yammine, son of Father George Yammine, and

3016-674: Is the largest and most important city in northern Lebanon and the second-largest city in the country. Situated 81 km (50 mi) north of the capital Beirut , it is the capital of the North Governorate and the Tripoli District . Tripoli overlooks the eastern Mediterranean Sea , and it is the northernmost seaport in Lebanon. The city is predominantly inhabited by Sunni Muslims , with smaller populations of Alawites and Christians , including Maronites and Armenians among others. The history of Tripoli dates back at least to

3120-449: Is to be registered in one of these five sectors. Zghartaouis are instantly recognizable by their distinct accent. Zgharta, whose general population did not speak Arabic until the end of the 19th century, transferred some of the Syriac terminology as well as signs of movement and incorporated them into the Arabic language that they now speak due to the necessity of communicating with the rest of

3224-451: Is two hours away. Its land is full of olive, mulberry, vines, apricot and lemon trees" The town of Zgharta was divided into five sectors in 1932: Saydeh Sharki (the area to the east side of Notre-Dame of Zgharta church), Saydeh Gherbi (west of the Church), Slayeb Shemali (northern side of the crossroads), Slayeb Janoubi (southern side of the crossroads) and Maaser. To be a citizen of Zgharta, one

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3328-531: Is well known for its cafés, sweet shops and entertainment. Annual folkloric festivals are held on Al-Middan. Many tourists and visitors who attend Al-Middan ultimately visit Mar Gerges Cathedral, the coffin of Youssef Bey Karam and his statue on “Al-Ketla”, and the statue of Al-Sahyouni and Sheikh Asaad Boulos Gravesite. Many cafés can be found in “Al-Moghtaribin” (Immigrants) Street and “Al-Mattal” area, creating an atmosphere of celebration lasting all over Ehden summer attracting tourists and visitors from Lebanon and

3432-449: Is “Dayr al-Salib” (Convent of the Cross), which is a symbol of an era of transformation for Ehdenians who had turned away from idolatry and converted to Christianity, according to a historical document written by Father Kozma. This convent is situated between Ehden and Bkoufa in the versant of Mar Sarkis’ mountain. It is a large grotto containing an altar and was identified by large stones forming

3536-824: Is “We cross ourselves and then move down and we celebrate and then move up.” This annual migration coincides with the Raising of the Cross Day, 15 September, and around Easter time. Ehden is a beautiful city renowned for its healthy environment, moderate dry climate and natural fresh water. It is one of the main summer locations of Lebanon. Visitors reach Ehden travelling from Beirut through Tripoli , Zgharta , Arjes then Ehden, or from Beirut through Seika, Al-Koura, Seraal, then Ehden, or from Beirut through Baalbak , Al-Arz-Becharri, Kfersghab , then Ehden. There are many restaurants in Ehden. Most restaurants are located near Mar Sarkis water stream, Al-Dawalib, Horsh Ehden and Al-Middan. Al-Middan

3640-497: The small Lebanese-Alawite community that is concentrated in the Jabal Mohsen neighborhood. Christians constitute today less than 5 percent of the population of the city. The Christian population in the city comprises Greek Orthodox Christians , Maronites and Greek Catholics, along with Armenians . Tripoli stands as one of Lebanon's less stable cities, marked by recurrent sectarian tensions among its communities , notably

3744-609: The Assyrian king through his leading assistant Rabshakeh , occupied Ehden and destroyed it by setting it alight and overturning its statue. - 300 BCE: Seleucus I , leader of an army that was a part of Alexander the Great 's Macedonian army, rebuilt Ehden. Seleucus I also built a large pagan temple on the eastern side where he erected a statue of the Sun-god Helios . - 64 BCE: Pompey blockaded Ehden. He conquered and destroyed it. It

3848-454: The Eyalet of Tripoli , encompassing the coastal territory from Byblos to Tarsus and the inland Syrian towns of Homs and Hama ; the two other eyalets were Aleppo Eyalet , and Şam Eyalet . Until 1612, Tripoli was considered as the port of Aleppo. It also depended on Syrian interior trade and tax collection from mountainous hinterland. Tripoli witnessed a strong presence of French merchants during

3952-515: The Mamluk invasion in 1283, tying the manuscript to his chest for safekeeping. Father George Yammine found the manuscript, which was written on an old piece of leather, at the start of the 19th century in a priest's home in Bsharri . He copied it and, following his death, his son Sheikh Roumanos Yammine kept it. It was then passed onto Monsignor Hanna Dib Saydet. In 1930, Historian Semaan el Khazan discovered

4056-606: The Maronite Church – Gregorios Of Ehden, David Of Ehden, Jeremiah of Amshit (1199-1230), Youhanna Makhlouf (1609-1633), George Omaira (1634-1644), Estephan El Douaihy (1670-1704) – and an Ottoman era nationalist leader Youssef Bey Karam who led a rebellion against Turkish rule. Political power in Zgharta district is dominated by a few rival families from the town: the Karam, Frangieh, Douaihy, Moawad and Makary. Traditionally, agriculture

4160-509: The Phoenicians , the name Athar was used to refer to Tripoli. When the Ancient Greeks settled in the city they called it Trípolis , meaning 'triple city', influenced by the earlier phonetically similar but etymologically unrelated name Derbly . The Arabs called it Ṭarābulus and Ṭarābulus ash-Shām (referring to bilād ash-Shām , or Levant , to distinguish it from the Libyan city with

4264-487: The Roman and Byzantine period, Tripoli witnessed the construction of important public buildings including a municipal stadium or gymnasium due to the strategic position of the city midway on the imperial coastal highway leading from Antioch to Ptolemais . In addition, Tripoli retained the same configuration of three distinct and administratively independent quarters ( Aradians , Sidonians , and Tyrians ). The territory outside

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4368-617: The Syrian National Bloc until the French cut off their support, resulting in a massive 33 day general strike in 1936. Since Lebanese independence was achieved, Tripoli has been mired in a period of extended economic and political decline. Beirut's rise as Lebanon's dominant port deprived Tripoli of its former preeminence as a trade hub, and globalization eroded the city's ability to compete in manufacturing. Lebanon's civil war , from 1975 to 1990, hit Tripoli hard. On 15 September 1985 intense fighting broke out between Tawheed al-Islami ,

4472-543: The partition of the Ottoman Empire , the French created the territory of Greater Lebanon , whose borders forcibly separated Tripoli from Syria, a decision that was contested by Tripolitans. Tripoli's population - mostly Sunni Muslims - found itself isolated in this state dominated by Christians, and so Tripoli developed a strong identity as a bastion for Muslim Arab nationalism and anti-imperialism. During this period, protests demanding reunification with Syria were backed by

4576-518: The "Shahani firman" was granted, but it was addressed to Sheikh Iskandar. Having collected the firman in Damascus and returning to Ehden the people there were aggrieved that the firman was addressed solely to Sheikh Iskandar, fearing that he and his relations could claim sole ownership. Bishop El Douaihy, representing the people, put this to Sheikh Iskandar and as a result he declared at the Mar Mama church that

4680-606: The 14th century BCE. It was called Athar by the Phoenicians , and later Tripolis by the Greek settlers, whence the modern Arabic name Ṭarābulus derives. In the Arab world , Tripoli has been historically known as Ṭarābulus ash-Shām (Arabic: طرابلس الشام , lit.   'Tripoli of the Levant '), to distinguish it from its Libyan counterpart , known as Ṭarābulus al-Gharb (Arabic: طرابلس الغرب‎ , lit.   'Tripoli of

4784-644: The 17th and 18th centuries and became under intense inter-European competition for trade. Tripoli was reduced to a sanjak centre in the Vilayet of Beirut in 19th century and retained her status until 1918 when it was captured by British forces. Public works in Ottoman Tripoli included the restoration of the Citadel of Tripoli by Suleiman I , the Magnificent. That was the only major project during 400 years of Ottoman Rule. Later governors brought further modifications to

4888-457: The Al-Zawiyi region. They chose a derelict farm, containing a few demolished houses and a tower in the middle, situated between the rivers Joueit and Rashein. Al-Ghazali, on the return of his officials with the measurements of the site, promised to obtain a "Shahani firman " (decree) from Sultan Salim whereby ownership of the land would pass to the people of Ehden. Some eight months later, in 1517,

4992-592: The Crusaders' rule the city became the capital of the County of Tripoli . In 1289, it fell to the Mamluks and the old port part of the city was destroyed. A new inland city was then built near the old castle. During Ottoman rule from 1516 to 1918, it retained its prosperity and commercial importance. Tripoli and all of Lebanon was under French mandate from 1920 until 1943 when Lebanon achieved independence. Many historians reject

5096-531: The Jesuit stated that there are three scriptures in Mar Mama church, two are written in Greek and another in Syriac. The Greek writing is sited on its exterior garden wall where most of it has been erased through the passing of time. Two lines are still visible in the lower section. A date is also visible of the Alexander year 584, which is equivalent to 282 AD. The second writing is in the shape of Greek numbers written on

5200-544: The Jesuit, lean toward the conclusion that Ehden’s name is derived from Eden where Adam and Eve lived following their exit from paradise. Douaihy left a booklet in Latin regarding his point of view. It is kept in the Vatican Library . Orientalists Hawiet, Rose Goaler and Orkwart supported Douaihy and Martens’ viewpoint. It was contested by Ernest Renan in his book Mission en Phenicie and by Father Henri Lammens . Ehden

5304-597: The Magnificent who had ordered the restoration. In the early 19th century, the Citadel was extensively restored by the Ottoman Governor of Tripoli Mustafa Agha Barbar . The Clock Tower is one of the most iconic monuments in Tripoli. The tower is located in Al-Tell square, and was gifted to the city by the Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II . It was erected in 1906 to celebrate the 30th year of Abdulhamid II of

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5408-560: The Mar Sarkis (Saint Sarkis) Mountain overlooking coastal towns and villages as far as Akkar to Shikka. A large number of local and overseas tourists visit Ehden annually. Ehden’s history dates back into the BCE period. Its indigenous people transformed rocky hills into land suitable for crops, irrigated by water from mountain streams. The people of Ehden have contributed to the fields of thought, literature, patriotism, and religion in Lebanon. Ehden

5512-718: The Maronite Church, who lost the books of Maronite prayers and Masses from its Syriac language until it became restricted to schools and seminaries and theological institutes. Residents of some villages in Mount Lebanon still speak Arabic with a Syriac accent, clinging to it and maintaining it because it is synonymous with their identity. The climate is hot-summer Mediterranean ( Csa in the Köppen climate classification ), with very wet winters and very dry summers. About 1,053 mm (41.46 in) of precipitation falls annually. Zgharta

5616-596: The Orient section, numbered 4524 and dated 272 AD. Dr. Philip Hitti in his book Lebanon in History affirms that “Ruins dating back to the era of the Roman Empire are widely spread over the mountains. Statues carved on rocks, in addition to Greek and Roman sculptures, graves, temple ruins and buried columns were found in branched and distant villages like Chouslan, Kartaba, Akoura, Tanourin and Ehden.” Ehden’s most famous Christian site

5720-908: The Prince" was reused to bring water from the Rash'in spring. Several bridges were constructed and the surrounding orchards expanded through marsh drainage. Fresh water was supplied to houses from their roofs. The urban form of Mamluk Tripoli was dictated mainly by climate, site configuration, defense, and urban aesthetics. The layout of major thoroughfares was set according to prevailing winds and topography. The city had no fortifications, but heavy building construction characterized by compact urban forms, narrow and winding streets for difficult city penetration. Residential areas were bridged over streets at strategic points for surveillance and defense. The city also included many loopholes and narrow slits at street junctions. The religious and secular buildings of Mamluk Tripoli comprise

5824-740: The Shiite shrine), the Church of Saint Mary of the Tower, and the Carmelite Church . The state was a major base of operations for the military order of the Knights Hospitaller , who occupied the famous castle Krak Des Chevaliers (today a UNESCO world heritage site). The state ceased to exist in 1289, when it was captured by the Egyptian Mamluk sultan Qalawun . The mid-twelfth century earthquake led to

5928-511: The Sultan he would. On his return to Damascus, Al-Ghazali invited the people of Ehden to meet him in Tripoli . At the request of Sheikh Iskander he agreed to provide the people with a place to live away from the harsh winter conditions, which they faced in Ehden. Al-Ghazali readily agreed to this request. Accompanied by his officials, Sheikh Iskandar went with Bishop El Douaihy to choose a suitable place in

6032-427: The Sunni and Alawite populations. The impact of the Syrian civil war , beginning in 2011, has extended into Tripoli, where local Alawites align with the Assad regime, while Lebanese Sunnis support the opposition, resulting in frequent and intense clashes between the two groups. Tripoli has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate ( Csa ) with mild wet winters and very dry, hot summers. Temperatures are moderated throughout

6136-505: The West'). Landmarks of Tripoli include the Mansouri Great Mosque and the Citadel of Tripoli , which is the largest crusader castle in Lebanon. The city has the second highest concentration of Mamluk architecture after Cairo . Tripoli also holds a string of four small islands offshore, the Palm Islands , which were declared a protected area because of their status as a haven for endangered loggerhead turtles ( Caretta caretta ), rare monk seals and migratory birds . Tripoli borders

6240-457: The ancient southern port quay, grinding mills , different types of columns, wheels, bows, and a necropolis from the end of the Hellenistic period . A sounding made in the Crusader castle uncovered Late Bronze Age , Iron Age , in addition to Roman , Byzantine , and Fatimid remains. At the Abou Halka area (at the southern entrance of Tripoli) refuges dating to the early (30,000 years old) and middle Stone Age were uncovered. Tripoli became

6344-453: The base of Mar Sarkis Mountain supports this explanation. This view is supported by Anis Freiha who writes: The name of Ehden comes from Adon , Adonis meaning "power, stability and tranquillity". It is corroborated by the Arabic root Hdn meaning "steadiness, calm and fertility". Adon means also "the base and the mountaintop" translating into "top of the mountain and its base". Patriarch Estephan El Douaihy , along with Father Martens

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6448-399: The buildings and include the use of marble marquetry, stucco, and glass mosaic). Mosques evenly spread with major concentration of madrasas around the Mansouri Great Mosque. All khans were located in the northern part of the city for easy accessibility from roads to Syria. Hammams (public baths) were carefully located to serve major population concentrations: one next to the Grand Mosque,

6552-818: The citizens of Zgharta have summer houses in Ehden. It is the seat and the capital of the Zgharta District (Qadaa' Zgharta). Zgharta is closely related to the mountain town of Ehden, essentially sharing the same population. Each summer, most of the people in Zgharta move to spend their summer in Ehden; this is reversed in winter when Ehden is practically deserted. Zgharta had two Presidents of Lebanon : Suleiman Frangieh and René Moawad , and many prominent politicians: Youssef Salim Karam , Hamid Frangieh , Historian Jawad Boulos Makary , Semaan El Douaihy, Suleiman Frangieh Jr , Nayla Moawad , Estephan El Douaihy (ex-MP), Salim Bey Karam , Tony Frangieh (current MP), Jawad Boulos, Michel Moawad (current MP) and Youssef Bahha El Douaihy. Ehden also produced at least four patriarchs of

6656-403: The city became the center of a confederation of the Phoenician city-states of Sidon , Tyre , and Arados Island. Under Hellenistic rule, Tripoli was used as a naval shipyard and the city enjoyed a period of autonomy. It came under Roman rule around 64 BCE. The 551 Beirut earthquake and tsunami destroyed the Byzantine city of Tripoli along with other Mediterranean coastal cities. Tripoli

6760-457: The city for almost three decades until 2005: As a majority Sunni city with a growing strain of indigenous Islamist militancy , Tripoli suffered some of the Syrians’ cruelest predations at a time when then-President Hafez al-Assad was engaged in the brutal suppression of Syria’s own Muslim Brotherhood . Wartime violence and instability triggered waves of emigration and capital flight. It also left Tripoli increasingly isolated, not least due to

6864-405: The city in 1102 and commanded a fortress to be built in which he named Mont Pèlerin (Mount Pilgrim). The original castle was burnt down in 1289, and rebuilt again on numerous occasions and was rebuilt in 1307–08 by Emir Essendemir Kurgi . Later the citadel was rebuilt in part by the Ottoman Empire which can be seen today, with its massive Ottoman gateway, over which is an engraving from Süleyman

6968-513: The city of El Mina , the port of the Tripoli District, which it is geographically conjoined with to form the greater Tripoli conurbation. With the formation of Lebanon and the 1948 breakup of the Syrian–Lebanese customs union, Tripoli, once on par in economic and commercial importance to Beirut, was cut off from its traditional trade relations with the Syrian hinterland and therefore declined in relative prosperity. The city faces recurrent sectarian clashes, high unemployment, economic disparities, and

7072-420: The city was divided between the three quarters. Tripoli gained in importance as a trading centre for the whole Mediterranean after it was inhabited by the Arabs . Tripoli was the port city of Damascus ; the second military port of the Arab Navy, following Alexandria ; a prosperous commercial and shipbuilding center; a wealthy principality under the Kutama Ismaili Shia Banu Ammar emirs . Legally, Tripoli

7176-434: The city with walls but restored and reused Saint-Gille's citadel. During the Mamluk period, Tripoli became a central city and provincial capital of the six kingdoms in Mamluk Syria . Tripoli ranked third after Aleppo and Damascus . The kingdom was subdivided into six wilayahs or provinces and extended from Byblos and Aqra mountains south, to Latakia and al Alawiyyin mountains north. It also included Hermel ,

7280-642: The city's first congregational mosque in memory of his father (Qalawun), in either late 1293 or 1294 (693 AH). Six madrasas were later built around the mosque. The Mamluks did not fortify the city with walls but restored and reused a Crusader citadel on the site. In addition, there were two quarter mosques ( Abd al-Wahed and Arghoun Shah ), and two mosques that were built on empty land (al-Burtasi and al-Uwaysiyat). Other mosques incorporated earlier structures (churches, khans, and shops). Mamluk Tripoli also included 16 madrasas of which four no longer exist (al-Zurayqiyat, al-Aattar, al-Rifaiyah, and al-Umariyat). Six of

7384-490: The death of many Jews in Tripoli, as noted by Jewish explorer Benjamin of Tudela . Tripoli was captured by Sultan al-Mansur Qalawun from the Crusaders in 1289. The Mamluks destroyed the old city and built a new city 4 km inland from it. About 35 monuments from the Mamluk city have survived to the present day, including mosques, madrasas, khanqahs , hammams (bathhouses), and caravanserais , many of them built by local Mamluk amirs (princes). The Mamluks did not fortify

7488-673: The dismantling of Lebanon's rail network and the abandonment of the Tripoli railway station . The city, moreover, saw little of the post-war reconstruction funding that Prime Minister Rafic Hariri ushered into Lebanon, with an overwhelming focus on the capital. In the years since, living conditions in Tripoli have continued to decline. In 2016, the United Nation's Human Settlements Program estimated that 58% of Tripoli's Lebanese residents lived in poverty. That already high figure preceded Lebanon's 2019 financial crisis , which has ratcheted up poverty and food insecurity. Tripoli's stagnation

7592-500: The end of the 6th century Ehdenians converted to Christianity. Maronite priests of Saint Maroun and St. Simeon Stylites helped convert them into Maronites . They built five churches all at once on top of the ruined idolatrous temple, using its stones for building Mar Mama, Mar Boutros, Mar Youhana, Mar Ghaleb and Mar Istfan. In addition, they raised huge stone crosses on top of the mountain. A brief account of Ehden's history has been found written by one of its inhabitants who fled from

7696-792: The first printing press in the Middle East was set up St Anthony of Khozaya Abbey near Ehden. Early publishing was mostly of religious works in Syriac (Karchouni) characters. The printing press is still on display there. Ehden used to be a significant site for idolatrous beliefs where numerous temples and enormous statues were located such as “Baal Loubnan”, “God of Snow” and “God of the Sun”. Due to major destruction that engulfed Ehden throughout its history, most of those statues and temples were destroyed. Huge rocks that have remained scattered on mountaintops, as well as large stones used in building some of its churches, still leave indication of that era. Father La Monse

7800-426: The given land known as "Zgharta would be distributed equally between the people of Ehden". In 1602, Father Ghodar, a Jesuit priest to Zgharta recorded: "Zgharta represents a horrific nightmare for its enemy. Its youth is dressed in traditional clothing; white shirts decorated with yellow stitched embroidery, strongly tied " sherwal " pants along with long boots and topped by headband reflecting enormous heroism. Zgharta

7904-509: The infiltration of radical Islamist groups in poorer neighborhoods. According to classical writers Diodorus Siculus , Pliny the Elder , and Strabo , the city was founded by combining colonies from three different Phoenician cities – Tyre , Sidon and Arwad . These colonies were each a stadion ( c.  180 m ) apart from each other, and the combined city became known as 'Triple City', or Trípolis ( Τρίπολις ) in Greek . Tripoli had

8008-472: The kingdom of “Afka” in Ehden’s forest. Afka is the first holy city in history according to Father Dr. Youssef Yammine al-Ehdeni who is trying to prove this theory by embarking on historical research he has not as yet completed. Nowadays the people reside in their Ehden homes during the summer months for cooler days and in their Zgharta homes for warmer winters. A popular saying based on this moving between homes

8112-562: The like. One writer has suggested that it derived from the Aramaic word "zaghar" meaning fortress. The Plain of Zgharta around Zgharta was likely inhabited from at least the beginning of the Neolithic Revolution by the Qaraoun culture as evidenced by some large, heavy Neolithic flints and double-headed axes found in the area that are documented by R. Wetzel and J. Haller in 1945. There

8216-503: The madrasas concentrated around the Grand Mosque. Tripoli also included a Khanqah , many secular buildings, five Khans, three hammams ( Turkish baths ) that are noted for their cupolas. Hammams were luxuriously decorated and the light streaming down from their domes enhances the inner atmosphere of the place. During the Ottoman period, Tripoli became the provincial capital and chief town of

8320-416: The main and historical crops grown in the area for centuries. Today, a variety of crops are grown: avocados, strawberries, kale, cabbage being the most popular. 34°24′N 35°54′E  /  34.400°N 35.900°E  / 34.400; 35.900 Ehden Ehden ( Arabic : إِهْدِن , Syriac-Aramaic :ܐܗܕ ܢ) is a mountainous city in the heart of the northern mountains of Lebanon and on

8424-545: The name of your God; I am the Lord." (See also Lev. 18:21; 20:2-5; 2 Kings. 23:10; Jer. 32:35). The blood of those sacrificed used to accumulate in the temple square and then streamed through a stone canal to where the five churches were built. There was a well, which collected the blood near where St Ghaleb’s church stood. There are 23 places of Christian worship in Ehden, including churches, monasteries, convents and shrines, such as: Cathedrals Churches Convents The town

8528-609: The original Crusader structure used as garrison center and prison. Khan al-Saboun (originally a military barrack) was constructed in the center of the city to control any uprising. Ottoman Tripoli also witnessed the development of the southern entrance of the city and many buildings, such as the al-Muallaq or "hanging" Mosque (1559), al-Tahhan Mosque (early 17th century), and al-Tawbah mosque (Mamluk construction, destroyed by 1612 flood and restored during early Ottoman Period). It also included several secular buildings, such as Khan al-Saboun (early 17th century) and Hammam al-Jadid (1740). After

8632-618: The other in the center of the commercial district, and the third in the right-bank settlement. About 35 monuments from the Mamluk city have survived to the present day, including mosques, madrasas, khanqahs, hammams, and caravanserais, many of them built by local Mamluk amirs. Major buildings in Mamluk Tripoli included six congregational mosques (the Mansouri Great Mosque, al-Aattar , Taynal , al-Uwaysiyat , al-Burtasi , and al-Tawbat Mosques). Sultan al-Ashraf Khalil (r. 1290–93) founded

8736-668: The persecution of dhimmis by the Shi'ite Fatimid caliph al-Hakim (996–1021), the synagogue faced conversion into a mosque. Notably, during the Seljuk invasion in the 1070s, Tripoli served as a refuge for Jews from Palestine, as documented in Cairo Geniza records. During the Crusade period, the city became the chief town of the County of Tripoli (a Crusader state founded by Raymond of Saint-Gilles ) extending from Byblos to Latakia and including

8840-475: The plain of Akkar with the famous Krak des Chevaliers . Tripoli was also the seat of a bishopric . Tripoli was home to a busy port and was a major center of silk weaving, with as many as 4,000 looms. Important products of the time included lemons, oranges, and sugar cane. For 180 years, during the Frankish rule, Occitan was among the languages spoken in Tripoli and neighboring villages. At that time, Tripoli had

8944-488: The plain of Akkar , and Hosn al-Akrad ( Krak des Chevaliers ). Tripoli became a major trading port of Syria supplying Europe with candy, loaf and powdered sugar (especially during the latter part of the 14th century). The main products from agriculture and small industry included citrus fruits, olive oil, soap, and textiles (cotton and silk, especially velvet ). The Mamluks formed the ruling class holding main political, military and administrative functions. Arabs formed

9048-550: The population base (religious, industrial, and commercial functions) and the general population included the original inhabitants of the city, immigrants from different parts of the Levant, North Africans who accompanied Qalawun 's army during the liberation of Tripoli, Eastern Orthodox Christians , some Western families, and a minority of Jews . The population size of Mamluk Tripoli is estimated at 20,000–40,000; against 100,000 in each of Damascus and Aleppo. Mamluk Tripoli witnessed

9152-640: The presence of any Phoenician civilization in Tripoli before the 8th (or sometimes 4th) century BCE. Others argue that the north–south gradient of Phoenician port establishments on the Lebanese coast indicates an earlier age for the Phoenician Tripoli. Tripoli has not been extensively excavated because the ancient site lies buried beneath the modern city of El Mina . However, a few accidental finds are now in museums. Excavations in El Mina revealed skeletal remains of ancient wolves , eels , and gazelles , part of

9256-458: The removal of heavy weapons. The truce broke down on 27 September and Tahweed al-Islami positions where bombarded from SSNP and Syrian artillery positions in the surrounding hills. On 1 October, following an Iranian diplomatic intervention, Tahweed agreed to surrender their heavy weapons and Syrian troops, on 6 October, were deployed throughout the city. A further 350 people had been killed and hundreds more wounded. The Syrian army remained in

9360-474: The residents of Mount Lebanon and its coast and those who abandoned this language. At the beginning of the twentieth century, the Saint Joseph School in Zgharta attested to this and the other schools in Ehden, which taught the Syriac language in addition to the Arabic and French languages. The prayers and Masses were held in Syriac and Arabic, before they gradually disappeared even among those in charge of

9464-431: The same name ). Once, Tripoli was also known as al-Fayḥāʾ ( الفيحاء ), which is a term derived from the Arabic verb fāḥa ( فاح ) which is used to indicate the diffusion of a scent or smell. Tripoli was once known for its vast orange orchards. During the season of blooming, the pollen of orange flowers was said to be carried on the air, creating a splendid perfume that filled the city and suburbs. The city of Tripoli

9568-532: The southwestern slopes of Mount Makmal in the Mount Lebanon Range . Its residents are the people of Zgharta , as it is within the Zgharta District . The mountain town is located 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) above sea level , and is 30.8 kilometres (19.1 mi) from Zgharta, 110 kilometres (68 mi) from Beirut (the country’s capital) and 39 kilometres (24 mi) from Tripoli, Lebanon . Ehden

9672-598: The world. Concerts featuring stars of Lebanese and Arab singing are held almost nightly. First-class hotels and resorts are available for tourists. In addition to modern motels, bars and clubs. Ehden has experienced a building boom in recent times extending beyond its traditional precincts where modern villas and apartments were built. New roads have been developed and old ones were widened to cope with increasing traffic. Convenience and tourism services for comfortable living are widely available in Ehden. There are various shopping centres, speciality shops, health services provided in

9776-406: The year due to the warm Mediterranean current coming from Western Europe. Therefore, temperatures are warmer in the winter by around 10 °C (18 °F) and cooler in the summer by around 7 °C (13 °F) compared to the interior of Lebanon. Although snow is an extremely rare event that only occurs around once every ten years, hail is common and occurs fairly regularly in the winter. Rainfall

9880-498: Was conquered by an Arab Muslim army in 635. During Umayyad rule, Tripoli became a commercial and shipbuilding center. It achieved semi-independence under Fatimid rule, when it developed into a center of learning. The Crusaders laid siege to the city at the beginning of the 12th century and were able finally to enter it in 1109. This caused extensive destruction, including the burning of Tripoli's famous library, Dar al-'Ilm (House of Knowledge), with its thousands of volumes. During

9984-410: Was a large portion of the local economy, with olives grown for olive-oil around Zgharta and apple orchards around Ehden. Recently, the service (especially tourism and leisure) and manufacturing sectors have seen significant growth. Various explanations have been given as to the meaning of Zgharta. The majority are of the opinion that it relates to meanings relating to fortresses, citadels, barricades and

10088-591: Was built by Seleucus a commander in Alexander the Great ’s army and raised a statue of "The god of Sun" nearby. The temple and statue were destroyed in 60 BC by the Roman Commander Pompey. Following their conversion to Christianity the people of Ehden built from the stones of the destroyed temple five churches over the temple precincts as a symbol of Christianity’s victory over paganism. The churches from North to South are: The area surrounding St Peter's church

10192-577: Was commonly used to make the transition from square rooms to round domes. Decorations in Mamluk buildings concentrated on the most conspicuous areas of buildings: minarets , portals, windows, on the outside, and mihrab, qiblah wall, and floor on the inside. Decorations at the time may be subdivided into structural decoration (found outside the buildings and incorporate the medium of construction itself such as ablaq walls, plain or zigzag moldings, fish scale motifs, joggled lintels or voussoirs, inscriptions, and muqarnas ) and applied decoration (found inside

10296-466: Was in Egypt. They were welcomed as guests by Sheikh Iskandar, whilst other members of their travelling entourage were guests of the people of Ehden. Heavy snowfall and extremely freezing conditions that lasted two full days prompted them to stay five days in Ehden where Sheikh Iskandar and Bishop Keryakos Douaihy, the local bishop, provided for their guests great hospitality, generosity and kindness. Responding to

10400-498: Was in turn built over an old Canaanite temple.” Mar Youhana church was built in 779 but was ruined. Some of its huge stones were still around until the start of the 20th century. Two churches belonging to Mar Sarkis convent were built, the first in the 8th century and the other in the 12th. Names of some areas hold a historical meaning such as “Al-Baoul area” named after (Baal the God), “Bab al-Bowayb” meaning (The Door of Doors) for it leads to

10504-471: Was not until the rise of Christianity that the Lebanese rebuilt it. An Ancient Greek inscription was found on the exterior of Mar Mama church with the equivalent date 282 CE and also Greek numerals near the church. Also a Syriac inscription was found which has been translated as saying “In the name of God who is capable of resurrecting the dead. In the year one of Alexander … Marcos had lived and died.” At

10608-407: Was originally the large public square of the pagan temple where the ancient Ehdenians used to meet during feasts and religious ceremonies. They used to sacrifice their eldest sons to their then pagan god for the wellbeing of their families and people. Of course, this was forbidden by God's word: Lev. 18:21 says, "Neither shall you give any of your offspring to offer them to Molech, nor shall you profane

10712-475: Was part of the jurisdiction of the military province of Damascus ( Jund Dimashq ). The Jewish community of Tripoli traces its roots back to the seventh century, as recounted by the Abbasid -era historian al-Baladhuri . During the caliphate of Rashidun caliph Uthman (644–655), the governor of Syria, Mu'awiya, settled Jews in Tripoli, fostering amicable relations with the majority Sunni Muslims . However, during

10816-420: Was the original homeland for Zghartians who later established Zgharta on the Lebanese coast in the 16th century. It was/is a warmer winter season home below the mountains' snow. Four centuries later it has become primarily a summer resort. Despite the changes that have taken place over the centuries, Ehden's people have maintained their strong ties to their cultural heritage and history. The town continues to be

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