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91-663: Painted Desert Inn is a historic complex in Petrified Forest National Park , in Apache County , eastern Arizona. It is located off Interstate 40 and near the original alignment of historic U.S. Route 66 , overlooking the Painted Desert . The inn's main building and associated guest cabins− casitas were designed in the Pueblo Revival style , by National Park Service architect Lyle E. Bennett and others from

182-454: A Grama Bouteloua /Galleta Hilaria (plant) Steppe ( 53 ) potential vegetation type with a Desert Grassland ( 12 ) vegetation form and a Juniper / Pinyon pine (23) vegetation type with a Great Basin montane forest /Southwest Forest (4) vegetation form. A 2005 survey found that 447 species of flora, of which 57 species are invasive , occur in the park. Although the park is known for its fossils and eroded badlands, its main environment

273-427: A gift shop, a gas station, a post office open from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday through Friday, a postal drop box, and public restrooms. The Rainbow Forest Museum complex 2 miles (3.2 km) north of the park's south entrance offers services including information and "Timeless Impressions" showings once every half-hour. It has a bookstore, fossil exhibits, an interactive Triassic Virtual Tour, limited food service,

364-484: A gift shop, and public restrooms. The Painted Desert Inn, 2 miles (3.2 km) north of the Painted Desert Visitor Center, offers visitor information. It has a bookstore, museum exhibits (including the building itself), and public restrooms. No campgrounds or overnight lodging are available in the park, although nearby communities such as Holbrook offer motels and other accommodations. Overnight parking

455-468: A large lake basin covered much of northeastern Arizona. The older (lower) layers of the formation consist of fluvial and lacustrine (lake-related) deposits of silt, sand, and clay. The younger (upper) Bidahochi contains ash and lava from volcanoes that erupted nearby and as far away as southwestern Nevada. Although much of the Bidahochi has since eroded, a small part of it outcrops in the northern part of

546-458: A low, open, shrubby canopy . The large seeds of Ginkgo and its habit of " bolting "—growing to a height of approx. 10 metres (30 feet) before elongating its side branches—may be adaptations to such an environment. Diversity in the genus Ginkgo dropped through the Cretaceous (along with that of ferns, cycads, and cycadeoids) at the same time the flowering plants were on the rise, which supports

637-597: A patina known as desert varnish . Most of the petroglyphs in Petrified Forest National Park are thought to be between 650 and 2,000 years old. From the 16th through the 18th centuries, explorers looking for routes between Spanish colonies along the Rio Grande to the southeast and other Spanish colonies on the Pacific coast to the west passed near or through the area, which they called El Desierto Pintado ,

728-481: A small fraction of the logs and most of the park's petrified animal bones have cells and other spaces that are mineral-filled but still retain much of their original organic structure. With these permineralized fossils, it is possible to study the cellular make-up of the original organisms with the aid of a microscope. Other organic matter—typically leaves, seeds, pine-cones, pollen grains, spores , small stems, and fish, insect, and animal remains—have been preserved in

819-516: A small masonry structure built from petrified wood that is open to the public) signaling a greater degree of residential permanence. During the Late Pueblo II and Early Pueblo III periods 1050–1225 local population size grew rapidly. Similar to much of the Ancestral Pueblo world, population density increased rapidly at this time and nearly 1,000 sites dating to this period have been identified in

910-576: A species may exist as a contiguous entity for many millions of years, many of the ginkgo's life-history parameters fit. These are: extreme longevity; slow reproduction rate; (in Cenozoic and later times) a wide, apparently contiguous, but steadily contracting distribution , coupled with, as far as can be demonstrated from the fossil record, extreme ecological conservatism (restriction to disturbed streamside environments). Modern-day G. biloba grows best in well-watered and drained environments, and

1001-580: A talk or walk along the Giant Logs Trail behind the museum, and a Puerco Pueblo guided walk. The park hosts special events related to Earth Science Week and National American Indian Heritage Month . On Saturdays from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day at the Painted Desert Inn, artisans from the region give cultural demonstrations related to ancient peoples, intertribal relationships, and European-descent cultures. For students and teachers,

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1092-502: Is a living fossil , with fossils similar to the modern plant dating back to the Permian , 270 million years ago. The closest living relatives of the clade are the cycads , which share with the extant G. biloba the characteristic of motile sperm. Motile sperm is believed to be a basal trait of green plants , as it is also found in most non- seed plants such as ferns and mosses, as well as green algae, which are believed to be

1183-505: Is a sister to a clade composed of conifers and gnetophytes, and that Ginkgo and cycads form a clade within the gymnosperms . A 2013 study examined the reasons for the discrepant results and concluded that the best support was for the monophyly of Ginkgo and cycads. The genus name is a mis‐ transliteration of the Japanese pronunciation gin kyo for the kanji Japanese : 銀杏 , lit.   'silver apricot'. This name

1274-529: Is adopted from Chinese, the name being found in Chinese herbology literature such as Daily Use Materia Medica ( 日用本草 ) (1329) and Compendium of Materia Medica ( 本草綱目 ) published in 1578. Despite its spelling, which is due to a complicated etymology including a transcription error, "ginkgo" is usually pronounced / ˈ ɡ ɪ ŋ k oʊ / , which has given rise to the common alternative spelling "gingko". The spelling pronunciation / ˈ ɡ ɪ ŋ k ɡ oʊ /

1365-487: Is allowed in the wilderness areas; water for horses is available at the service station near the Painted Desert Visitor Center. Riders and hikers are asked to travel along dry washes as much as possible to reduce the impact on fragile desert soils. Rangers offer a variety of programs about the park. Regularly scheduled events include a Painted Desert Inn tour, a Triassic program at the Rainbow Forest Museum sunroom,

1456-477: Is also documented in some dictionaries. Engelbert Kaempfer first introduced the spelling ginkgo in his book Amoenitatum Exoticarum , taking it from Japanese herbalist Tekisai Nakamura  [ ja ] in his manuscript, Kinmō Zu'i  [ ja ] , acquired in Dejima between 1689–91. It is considered that he may have misspelled ginkyo or ginkio as ginkgo . This misspelling

1547-520: Is doubtful whether the Northern Hemisphere fossil species of Ginkgo can be reliably distinguished. Given the slow pace of evolution and morphological similarity between members of the genus, there may have been only one or two species existing in the Northern Hemisphere through the entirety of the Cenozoic : present-day G. biloba (including G. adiantoides ) and G. gardneri from

1638-552: Is estimated to be extremely ancient, dating to the early Carboniferous . Fossils attributable to the genus Ginkgo with reproductive organs similar to the modern species first appeared in the Middle Jurassic , and the genus diversified and spread throughout Laurasia during the Jurassic and Early Cretaceous . It declined in diversity as the Cretaceous progressed with the extinction of species such as Ginkgo huolinhensis , and by

1729-452: Is not allowed except in the case of backpackers with wilderness hiking permits. Sightseeing is available by private automobile, motorcycle, commercial tour, bicycle, and hiking. The park road, parking lots, and turn-outs are big enough to accommodate large recreational vehicles. Off-road vehicle travel, including by mountain bike , is not allowed. With a few exceptions such as unpaved Old Highway 66, bicycles must stay on paved roads such as

1820-629: Is now deposited at the University of California Museum of Paleontology . In 1919, a phytosaur skull was discovered near Blue Mesa in the Petrified Forest by Ynez Mexia and sent to the Museum of Paleontology in Berkeley. In 1921, Annie Alexander , founder of the museum, visited Blue Mesa to collect more of the phytosaur and other specimens; this led to further excavations by paleontologist Charles Camp . Camp

1911-555: Is semi-desert shrub steppe. Protected from development and overgrazing for many years, the park has some of the best grassland in northeastern Arizona. In the northern part of the park, the volcanic soils of the Bidahochi Formation support abundant plant life along the Painted Desert rim. In contrast to the relatively bare badlands below, the rim is covered with shrubs, small trees, grasses, and herbs. The dominant plants in

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2002-450: Is still a problem. Despite a guard force of seven National Park Service rangers , fences, warning signs, and the threat of a $ 325  fine , an estimated 12 short tons (11,000  kg ) of the fossil wood is stolen from the Petrified Forest every year. Jessee Walter Fewkes , the first archeologist to visit Puerco Ruin, predicted in the late 19th century that it would yield many artifacts. Conservationist John Muir conducted

2093-416: Is the golden eagle , with a wingspan of up to 7 feet (2 m). The park is open every day except Christmas on a schedule that varies slightly with the seasons. In 2010, it and its Painted Desert Visitor Center and Rainbow Forest Museum were open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. from May 9 through September 6 but opened as early as 8 a.m. and closed as late as 5 p.m. during other parts of

2184-400: Is the largest and most often seen. Plateau striped whiptails , a species consisting entirely of females, prefer grasslands and developed areas. Side-blotched lizards live in rocky areas of the park but are seldom seen. Gopher snakes , which sometimes imitate rattlesnakes when disturbed, are among the most common snakes in the park. The Prairie rattlesnake , the only venomous snake found in

2275-573: The Archaic Period , nomadic groups established seasonal camps in the Petrified Forest from which they hunted game such as rabbits, pronghorn antelope, and deer and harvested seeds from Indian ricegrass and other wild plants. By at least 1000  BCE and through the Basketmaker II period (400  BCE –500  CE )Ancestral Puebloan farmers began to grow corn. Between 200–500  CE population size grew rapidly. Many families built houses in

2366-583: The BNSF Railway , and the Puerco River bisect the park generally east–west along a similar route. Adamana , a ghost town , is about 1 mile (1.6 km) west of the park along the BNSF tracks. Holbrook , about 26 miles (40 km) west of park headquarters along I-40, is the nearest city. Bisecting the park north–south is Park Road, which runs between I-40 near park headquarters on the north and U.S. Route 180 on

2457-509: The Bureau of Land Management , and private land, much of it used for cattle ranching, adjoin the other borders. The park's elevation above sea level varies from a low of 5,340 feet (1,630 m) along the Puerco River to a high of 6,230 feet (1,900 m) at Pilot Rock; the average elevation is about 5,400 feet (1,650 m). The terrain varies from gentle hills and major petrified wood deposits in

2548-665: The Colorado Plateau , of which the park is part, was pushed upward by tectonic forces and exposed to increased erosion. All of the park's rock layers above the Chinle, except geologically recent ones found in parts of the park, have been removed by wind and water. In addition to petrified logs, fossils found in the park have included Late Triassic ferns, cycads , ginkgoes , and many other plants as well as fauna including giant reptiles called phytosaurs , large amphibians, and early dinosaurs. Paleontologists have been unearthing and studying

2639-588: The Mesozoic era, about 225-207 million years ago. During this epoch, the region that is now the park was near the equator on the southwestern edge of the supercontinent Pangaea , and its climate was humid and sub-tropical. What later became northeastern Arizona was a low plain flanked by mountains to the south and southeast and a sea to the west. Streams flowing across the plain from the highlands deposited inorganic sediment and organic matter, including trees as well as other plants and animals that had entered or fallen into

2730-812: The National Register of Historic Places . Eight other sites within the park are also on the National Register, including the Painted Desert Inn and associated cabins, the Agate House Pueblo , the Painted Desert Petroglyphs and Ruins Archeological District, Newspaper Rock Petroglyphs Archeological District , Puerco Ruin and Petroglyphs , the Flattop Site (an archeological site), the Twin Buttes Archeological District , and

2821-625: The Painted Desert gets its name, is up to 800 feet (240 m) thick in the park. It consists of a variety of sedimentary rocks including beds of soft, fine-grained mudstone , siltstone , and claystone —much of which is bentonite —as well as harder sandstone and conglomerate , and limestone . Exposed to wind and water, the Chinle usually erodes differentially into badlands made up of cliffs, gullies, mesas , buttes , and rounded hills. Its bentonite clay, which swells when wet and shrinks while drying, causes surface movement and cracking that discourages plant growth. Lack of plant cover makes

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2912-629: The Palaeocene , only a few Ginkgo species, Ginkgo cranei and Ginkgo adiantoides , remained in the Northern Hemisphere , while a markedly different (and poorly documented) form persisted in the Southern Hemisphere . At the end of the Pliocene , Ginkgo fossils disappeared from the fossil record everywhere except in a small area of central China, where the modern species survived . It

3003-526: The Permian , 270  million years ago , and Ginkgo is now the only living genus within the order. The rate of evolution within the genus has been slow, and almost all its species had become extinct by the end of the Pliocene . The sole surviving species, Ginkgo biloba , is found in the wild only in China, but is cultivated around the world. The relationships between ginkgos and other groups of plants are not fully resolved. The ginkgo ( Ginkgo biloba )

3094-521: The Placerias Quarry near St. Johns . Fossil invertebrates include freshwater snails and clams . The oldest fossil crayfish , Enoploclytia porteri , was also described from the park, although it is not considered a crayfish proper (instead placed in Erymidae ). New animal species that were first identified from localities within the current park boundaries, some of which remain known only from

3185-561: The U.S. Congress to create a petrified forest national park. Although this first attempt failed, in 1906 the Antiquities Act signed by President Theodore Roosevelt was used to create the Petrified Forest National Monument as the second national monument . Between 1934 and 1942, the federal Civilian Conservation Corps built road, trails, and structures in the monument, and the government acquired additional land in

3276-522: The 10-mile-per-hour (16 km/h) average wind causes frequent sandstorms and dust devils , some of which reach altitudes of several thousand feet. Rain is heaviest from July through September, when 42 percent of the park's annual average precipitation falls. August is the wettest month. At an elevation of more than 5,000 feet (1,500 m), Petrified Forest National Park has a chance of light snow from October through March, although snow cover rarely persists. The annual average relative humidity of

3367-533: The 28-mile (45 km) main park road and stay off trails and unpaved surfaces. The park's seven maintained hiking trails, some paved, vary in length from less than 0.5 miles (0.8 km) to nearly 3 miles (4.8 km). Pets are allowed on these trails if kept on a leash, but bicycles are not. These named trails are Painted Desert Rim, Puerco Pueblo, Blue Mesa, Crystal Forest, Giant Logs, Long Logs, and Agate House. There are also nine recently developed day-hike routes on unpaved and largely unmarked routes called "Off

3458-465: The 35th Parallel Route (also known as the Beale Camel Trail). The Painted Desert Inn was upgraded to a National Historic Landmark in 1987. The visitor center, which is near the north entrance to the park, offers visitor information and shows a 20-minute orientation movie, "Timeless Impressions", once every half-hour. It has a bookstore, exhibits, a restaurant open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.,

3549-670: The Adamana train station, book a hotel room, and take a tour of what was then called the Chalcedony Forest. Over the years, the line changed hands, becoming the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway , and then the BNSF. More than 60 BNSF trains, mostly carrying freight, pass through the park every day. U.S. Route 66, a former transcontinental auto highway developed in 1926 from part of the National Old Trails Road , ran parallel to

3640-494: The Beaten Path" hikes. Hikers and backpackers may also visit the park's wilderness areas. Free permits are required for overnight stays; they are issued from the Painted Desert Visitor Center, Painted Desert Inn, and Rainbow Forest Museum. Most backpackers enter the wilderness at the north end of the park, where parking and an access trail are available at Painted Desert Inn. Group camping is limited to eight people. Horseback riding

3731-579: The Chinle and Bidahochi. Older dunes range in age from 500,000 years at higher elevations in the northern part of the park to about 10,000 years in sandy drainage areas such as Lithodendron Wash. Stabilized by grasses and other vegetation, young dunes of about 1,000 years old are found throughout the park. During the Late Triassic, downed trees accumulating in river channels in what became the park were buried periodically by sediment containing volcanic ash . Groundwater dissolved silica (silicon dioxide) from

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3822-470: The Chinle especially susceptible to weathering. About 60 million years ago, tectonic movements of the Earth's crust began to uplift the Colorado Plateau , of which the Painted Desert is part. Eventually parts of the plateau rose to 10,000 feet (3,000 m) above sea level. This warping of the Earth's surface led to the gradual and continuing destruction of the plateau by erosion. An unconformity (break in

3913-648: The Hopi Mesas in Northern Arizona and at the Pueblo of Zuni in northern New Mexico, where the descendants of the ancient Petrified Forest farmers still live today. Some researchers have argued that a persistently dry climate led to out-migration, and the last residents left Puerco Pueblo in about 1380 CE. At Puerco Pueblo and many other sites within the park, petroglyphs —images, symbols, or designs—have been scratched, pecked, carved, or incised on rock surfaces, often on

4004-547: The Painted Desert section. The monument became a national park in 1962. Six years after the signing of the Wilderness Act in 1964 by President Lyndon B. Johnson , wilderness areas (where human activity is limited), were designated in the park. In 2004, President George W. Bush signed a bill authorizing the eventual expansion of the park from 93,353 acres (about 146 mi or 378 km ) to 218,533 acres (about 341 mi or 884 km ). Theft of petrified wood

4095-454: The Painted Desert. However, the park's oldest Spanish inscriptions, left by descendants of the region's early Spanish colonists, date only to the late 19th century. After the Southwest became part of the U.S. , explorers continued to look for good east–west routes along the 35th parallel . In 1853, a crew led by U.S. Army Lieutenant Amiel Whipple surveyed along a sandy wash in

4186-590: The Palaeocene of Scotland . At least morphologically, G. gardneri and the Southern Hemisphere species are the only known post-Jurassic taxa that can be unequivocally recognised. The remainder may have been ecotypes or subspecies . The implications would be that G. biloba had occurred over an extremely wide range, had remarkable genetic flexibility and, though evolving genetically, never showed much speciation . While it may seem improbable that

4277-531: The Park Service Branch of Plans and Design. Construction was carried out by Civilian Conservation Corps builders and artisans over 1937–1940. A portion of the main building was remodeled from the 1920s inn on the site, nicknamed the Stone Tree House due to local petrified wood used in its architectural elements. After post-war design revisions by architect and interior designer Mary Jane Colter , it

4368-481: The Petrified Forest and for the first time began to stay there year-round. During the Basketmaker III period, 500–700  CE , families occupied shallow subterranean pit structures, at first on mesas or other vantage points and later at the base of bluffs and in lowlands, where the soil was better. Settlement patterns shifted and population size grew during the Pueblo I era between 700 and 900 CE and for

4459-513: The Petrified Forest in the early 1940s identified most of the large sites with stone ruins, and subsequent surveys since 1978 have identified a total of more than 600 artifact sites, many of them small. The earliest paleontological exploration of the region that is now the park was made in 1899 by paleobotanist Lester Ward , material of which is now deposited in the Smithsonian Institution . Muir also collected some fossil material, which

4550-435: The Petrified Forest migrated to join rapidly growing communities on the Hopi Mesas to the northwest and the Pueblo of Zuni to the east–these locations are still home to thousands of descendant community members today. More than 1000 archeological sites, including petroglyphs , have been discovered in the park. These ancestral places remain important to descendant communities. In the 16th century, Spanish explorers visited

4641-540: The University of Chicago (Michael Parrish), the Field Museum of Natural History (John Bolt), and Yale University (Paul Olsen). Since then, more than 300 fossil sites have been documented in the park. Research in paleontology and archeology continues at the park in the 21st century. According to the A. W. Kuchler U.S. Potential natural vegetation Types, Petrified Forest National Park encompasses two classifications;

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4732-444: The area is below 50 percent and at times less than 15 percent. More than 1200 archeological sites have been found inside the boundaries of Petrified Forest National Park. Evidence suggests that the earliest inhabitants of the park arrived over 12,000 years ago. Clovis and Folsom-type spear points made from petrified wood are among the earliest artifacts of Paleoindians found in the park. Between 8,000 and 1,000  BCE ,

4823-422: The area, and by the mid-19th century a U.S. team had surveyed an east–west route through the area where the park is now located and noted the petrified wood. Later, roads and a railway followed similar routes and gave rise to tourism and, before the park was protected, to large-scale removal of fossils. Theft of petrified wood remains a problem in the 21st century. Petrified Forest National Park straddles

4914-403: The ash and carried it into the logs, where it formed quartz crystals that gradually replaced the organic matter. Traces of iron oxide and other substances combined with the silica to create varied colors in the petrified wood. In Petrified Forest National Park, most of the logs in the park retained their original external form during petrification but lost their internal structure. However,

5005-438: The base of the green plant clade, the group in which the last common ancestor of land plants emerged. Motile sperm have been lost in all seed plants except for the ginkgo and the cycads, making it a shared conserved trait —a plesiomorphy —and implying these two groups themselves form a clade, sharing a common ancestor also with the trait, which diverged early from the rest of the seed plant lineage. The time of this divergence

5096-424: The border between Apache County and Navajo County in northeastern Arizona. The park is about 30 miles (50 km) long from north to south, and its width varies from a maximum of about 12 miles (20 km) in the north to a minimum of about 1 mile (1.6 km) along a narrow corridor between the north and south, where the park widens again to about 4 to 5 miles (6 to 8 km). I-40 , former U.S. Route 66 ,

5187-485: The extremely similar fossil Ginkgo favoured similar environments. The sediment records at the majority of fossil Ginkgo localities indicate it grew primarily in disturbed environments along streams and levees . Ginkgo therefore presents an " ecological paradox " because, while it possesses some favourable traits for living in disturbed environments ( clonal reproduction ), many of its other life-history traits (slow growth, large seed size, late reproductive maturity) are

5278-786: The fastest land animals in North America, are capable of 60-mile-per-hour (97 km/h) sprints. They are the second fastest land animal on Earth. The blood vessels in the huge, thin-walled ears of the jackrabbits act as heat exchangers. These hares are known for their bursts of speed, long leaps, and zigzag routes, all of which protect them from being eaten by golden eagles and other predators. The prairie dogs live in large colonies or "towns", near which many other species find food and shelter. Coyotes dine largely on rodents but also eat fruits, reptiles, insects, small mammals, birds, and carrion . Bobcats and bullsnakes hunt smaller animals, such as deer mice and white-tailed antelope squirrels in

5369-532: The first excavations of the ruin in 1905–06. Although he did not publish his findings, he urged the federal government to preserve Petrified Forest. Professional archeological work in the park began in the early 20th century when Walter Hough conducted excavations at Puerco Ruin and other sites. In the 1930s, the Civil Works Administration funded research in the park by archeologists H.P. Mera and C.B. Cosgrove. A National Park Service resurvey of

5460-542: The first time large groups of families aggregated together and formed large villages. During this period, each household built large well-insulated subterranean residential pit structures to keep warm during the cold winter months and several adjacent above ground rooms made from stone and jacal similar to adobe—used for food storage and daily activities during the warmer months. During the early Pueblo II period (900–1050  CE ) Ancestral Pueblo farmers began constructing above-ground masonry architecture (for example Agate House,

5551-639: The inn (not since 1947), but during the summer months it has a nostalgic ice cream parlor. Hopi artist Fred Kabotie was engaged by Colter to paint the inn's murals in 1947–48. Colter knew Kabotie from a previous collaboration at the Fred Harvey Hopi House in Grand Canyon National Park . Kabotie's work depicts aspects of Hopi life, including a journey through the Painted Desert to collect salt. Petrified Forest National Park Averaging about 5,400 feet (1,600 m) in elevation,

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5642-504: The late 19th century, settlers and private stagecoach companies followed similar east–west routes. Homesteaders who stayed in the area developed cattle ranches on the grasslands, and cattle grazed in the Petrified Forest until the mid-20th century. Also close to the 35th parallel was the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad . Its opening in the early 1880s led to the founding of towns like Holbrook and Adamana. Visitors could stop at

5733-548: The northern part of the Petrified Forest. So impressed was Whipple by the petrified wood along the banks of the arroyo that he named it Lithodendron Creek (Stone Tree Creek). Geologist Jules Marcou , a member of the Whipple expedition, observed that the petrified trees were from the Triassic. A slightly later route along the parallel was a wagon road, built between 1857 and 1860, that involved experimental use of camels as transport. In

5824-879: The notion that flowering plants, with their better adaptations to disturbance, displaced Ginkgo and its associates over time. Trichopitys heteromorpha from the earliest Permian of France, is one of the earliest fossils ascribed to the Ginkgophyta. It had multiple-forked non-laminar leaves with cylindrical, thread-like ultimate divisions. Sphenobaiera (early Permian–Cretaceous) had wedge-shaped leaves divided into narrow dichotomously- veined lobes, lacking distinct petioles (leaf stalks). Baiera (Triassic–Jurassic) had similar multiple-lobed leaves but with petioles. As of February 2013 , molecular phylogenetic studies have produced at least six different placements of Ginkgo relative to cycads , conifers , gnetophytes and angiosperms . The two most common are that Ginkgo

5915-447: The opposite of those exhibited by "younger", more-recently emerged plant species that thrive in disturbed settings. Given the slow rate of evolution of the genus, it is possible that Ginkgo represents a pre- angiosperm strategy for survival in disturbed streamside environments. Ginkgo evolved in an era before angiosperms (flowering plants), when ferns , cycads , and cycadeoids dominated disturbed streamside environments, forming

6006-527: The park as compression fossils , flattened by the weight of the sediments above until only a thin film remains in the rock. Much of the park's petrified wood is from Araucarioxylon arizonicum , an extinct conifer tree, while some found in the northern part of the park is from Woodworthia arizonica and Schilderia adamanica trees. At least nine species of fossil trees from the park have been identified; all are extinct. The park has many other kinds of fossils besides trees. The Chinle, considered to be one of

6097-524: The park at a wide variety of locations—at the mouths of washes , near seeps , and on moisture-holding sand dunes. Between 1250 and 1450 CE Ancestral Pueblo families gathered into large apartment building-like masonry structures (also known as pueblos) with several hundred people living together in close quarters These large villages were often located near important water sources. Ancestral Pueblo people constructed more than two of these large pueblos, one called Stone Axe, about 0.5 miles (0.8 km) east of

6188-572: The park has a dry windy climate with temperatures that vary from summer highs of about 100 °F (38 °C) to winter lows well below freezing. More than 400 species of plants, dominated by grasses such as bunchgrass , blue grama, and sacaton , are found in the park. Fauna include larger animals such as pronghorns , coyotes , and bobcats ; many smaller animals, such as deer mice , snakes, lizards, and seven kinds of amphibians ; and more than 200 species of birds, some of which are permanent residents and many of which are migratory . About one third of

6279-560: The park include more than 100 grass species, many native to the region. Growing among the grasses are flowering species such as evening primrose , mariposa lily , and blue flax , and shrubs such as sagebrush , saltbush , and rabbitbrush . Among the wide variety of grasses are native perennial bunchgrass , blue grama , sacaton , sideoats grama , bearded sprangletop , and bush muhly . Invasive species that crowd out slower-spreading natives include annual lovegrass and brome (cheat grass). Trees and shrubs grow in riparian zones along

6370-485: The park is designated wilderness —50,260 acres (79 sq mi; 203 km ). The Petrified Forest is known for its fossils, especially fallen trees that lived in the Late Triassic Epoch , about 225 million years ago. The sediments containing the fossil logs are part of the widespread and colorful Chinle Formation , from which the Painted Desert gets its name. Beginning about 60 million years ago,

6461-535: The park's fossils since the early 20th century. The park's earliest human inhabitants arrived 13,000 years ago. These Clovis-era people are the ancestors of Native Americans. By about 2,500 years ago Ancestral Pueblo farmers were growing corn and living in subterranean pit houses in what would become the park. By one-thousand years ago Ancestral Pueblo farmers lived in above-ground, masonry dwellings called pueblos and gathered in large communal buildings called great kivas. By AD 1450 Ancestral Pueblo farmers in

6552-552: The park's riparian zones. Western pipistrelle bats feast on insects, and pallid bats eat beetles, centipedes , cicadas , praying mantises , scorpions , and other arthropods . On the Painted Desert rim, small animals find food and shelter among the denser foliage, and mule deer sometimes frequent the area. More than 16 kinds of lizards and snakes live in various habitats in the park and consume large quantities of insects, spiders, scorpions, other reptiles, and small mammals. The collared lizard , which occurs in every habitat,

6643-479: The park's washes. Willows and cottonwoods are the larger plants, joined by rushes and sedges. Here the invasive Eurasian tamarisk , also known as saltcedar, threatens native plants by crowding, using most of the available water, and increasing soil salinity by exuding salt through its leaves. Some of the larger animals roaming the grasslands include pronghorns , black-tailed jackrabbits (hares), Gunnison's prairie dogs , coyotes , bobcats and foxes. Pronghorns,

6734-516: The park, 6 other species probably do, and 18 species live in the park year-round. Thirty-five species live in the park only during the summer and 11 species only during the winter. The greatest diversity of birds occurs during fall and winter migrations. Raptors , songbirds, and ground birds are found in the park's grassland, while the Puerco River's riparian corridor is a good place for year-round residents as well as migrants such as warblers , vireos , avocets , and killdeer . Developed areas around

6825-440: The park, and the other at Puerco Pueblo, which overlooks the Puerco River near the middle of the park. There they built roughly 200 rooms around an open plaza. Some rooms had no windows or doors and could be entered by climbing a ladder and descending through a hole in the roof. At its peak, perhaps 200 people lived in this pueblo. Over time, however, Ancestral Pueblo families undertook migrations and joined rapidly growing towns on

6916-603: The park, are listed below. According to the Köppen climate classification system, Petrified Forest National Park has a cold semi-arid climate ( BSk ). According to the United States Department of Agriculture , the plant hardiness zone at the Painted Desert Visitor Center 5,764 feet (1,757 m) is 7a with an average annual extreme minimum temperature of 3.1 °F (−16.1 °C). Winter winds can reach 60 miles per hour (97 km/h). Summer breezes are lighter, but

7007-543: The park, prefers grasslands and shrub areas. Seven kinds of amphibians , which drink no water but absorb it through their permeable skins, have been identified in Petrified Forest National Park. Tiger salamanders , found in grassland and near major drainages, are the only salamander species known in Arizona. Woodhouse's toads , which are seldom seen, are the largest toads in the park. They like grasslands, riparian corridors, and developed areas. Red-spotted toads , most active in

7098-575: The park—on Pilot Rock in the park's wilderness section and along the rim of the Painted Desert between Pintado and Tawa points. Exposed by erosion of the Bidahochi are volcanic landforms called maars (flat-bottomed, roughly circular volcanic craters of explosive origin). A maar vent can be seen from the Pintado Point lookout. During the Quaternary Period (2.6 million years ago up to today), deposits of windblown sand and alluvium covered much of

7189-475: The railroad tracks until it was decommissioned in 1985. The park has preserved within its boundaries a small grassy section of the road. Interstate 40 , which crosses the park, replaced the older highway. Increasing tourist and commercial interest in petrified wood during the late 19th century began to alarm residents of the region. In 1895, the Arizona Territorial Legislature asked

7280-510: The rainy season, July through September, are found in rocky areas near streams and in canyons. The Great Plains toad , the most common toad in the park, prefers grasslands. Resident spadefoot toads include the New Mexico, plains, and Couch's varieties. A survey conducted in 2006 identified 216 species of birds known to have occurred in Petrified Forest National Park since the park became a protected area in 1906. Of those, 33 species breed within

7371-460: The rangers offer educational materials and field-trip talks. In some years during the summer months, artists-in-residence work in the park. Ginkgo Salisburia Sm. Ginkgo is a genus of non-flowering seed plants , assigned to the gymnosperms . The scientific name is also used as the English common name. The order to which the genus belongs, Ginkgoales , first appeared in

7462-645: The richest Late Triassic fossil-plant deposits in the world, contains more than 200 fossil plant taxa . Plant groups represented in the park include lycophytes , ferns , cycads , conifers, ginkgoes , as well as unclassified forms. The park has also produced one of the most diverse assemblages of fossil vertebrates from the Late Triassic. Among the groups represented are early theropod dinosaurs, crocodile-line archosaurs, temnospondyl amphibians, lissamphibians, non-archosauromorph diapsids, and other dinosauromorphs and archosauromorphs. Dicynodonts are extremely rare despite being abundantly represented at

7553-457: The rock record) of about 200 million years occurs within the park, where erosion has removed all the rock layers above the Chinle except geologically recent ones. The Bidahochi Formation , laid down only 4 to 8 million years ago, rests directly atop the Chinle, and rocks laid down in the Jurassic , Cretaceous , and much of the Tertiary are absent. During the period of the Bidahochi deposition ,

7644-542: The south to eroded badlands in the north. Most of the park's intermittent streams—including Lithodendron Wash, Dead Wash, Ninemile Wash, and Dry Wash—empty into the Puerco River. In the southern part of the park, Cottonwood Wash and Jim Camp Wash flow into the Little Colorado River . Petrified Forest National Park is known for its fossils , especially of fallen trees that lived in the Late Triassic Epoch of

7735-464: The south. Historic Highway 180, an earlier alignment of the modern route, crosses the southern edge of the park. Like Route 66, it has deteriorated and is closed. Many unpaved maintenance roads, closed to the public, intersect Park Road at various points. The fee area of the park owned by NPS covers about 230 square miles (600 km ). The Navajo Nation borders the park on the north and northeast. State-owned land, federal land controlled by

7826-417: The visitor center and museum attract western tanagers , hermit warblers , house finches , and others. Occasional shorebirds and eastern birds also visit the park. Birds commonly seen in the park include the common raven and the western meadowlark , known for its charming song. Anna's hummingbird , which can hover and fly backwards as well as forwards, is among the smallest birds in the park. The largest

7917-459: The water. Although most organic matter decays rapidly or is eaten by other organisms, some is buried so quickly that it remains intact and may become fossilized. Within the park, the sediments containing the fossil logs for which the park is named are part of the Chinle Formation . The colorful Chinle, which appears on the surface in many parts of the southwestern United States and from which

8008-559: The year. The Painted Desert Inn (a historic museum and bookstore) is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. year-round except Christmas. Park clocks are always set to Mountain Standard Time , as Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time . The Painted Desert Visitor Center, designed by modernist architect Richard Neutra , is part of the Painted Desert Community Complex Historic District listed on

8099-505: Was operated by the Fred Harvey Company as a Harvey House from 1947 to 1963, when it closed. Demolition was proposed in the mid-1970s, but after public protests the building was reopened for limited use in 1976 as a Bicentennial Travel Center after being listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1987 for its architecture and the distinctive way in which New Deal works funding

8190-601: Was the most prolific collector in the early 20th century, but collections were also made by Maurice Mehl (University of Missouri), Edwin Colbert (American Museum of Natural History), and park naturalists like Myrl Walker. In the latter half of the 20th century, the park was inventoried by staff at the Museum of Northern Arizona (Richard Cifelli, Will Downs), with renewed collection made by researchers from Berkeley (Robert Long, Kevin Padian),

8281-444: Was used for its construction. The main building of the Painted Desert Inn was extensively rehabilitated and restored over the years, reopening as a museum and bookstore in the 1990s full time. There was an extensive period of rehabilitation for the complex 2004–2006, reopening as a museum (the park's bookstores are now at the Rainbow Forest Museum and Painted Desert Visitor Center). Overnight accommodations are not currently available at

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