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56-624: The former Royal Burgh of Lauder ( / ˈ l ɔː d ər / , Scottish Gaelic : Labhdar ) is a town in the Scottish Borders in the historic county of Berwickshire . On the Southern Upland Way , the burgh lies 27 miles (43 km) southeast of Edinburgh , on the western edge of the Lammermuir Hills . Although Lauder sits in the valley of Leader Water, Watson notes that the names Lauder and Leader appear to be unconnected. In

112-458: A royal charter . Although abolished by law in 1975, the term is still used by many former royal burghs. Most royal burghs were either created by the Crown , or upgraded from another status, such as burgh of barony . As discrete classes of burgh emerged, the royal burghs—originally distinctive because they were on royal lands—acquired a monopoly of foreign trade. An important document for each burgh

168-466: A scheduled monument . The east end of the abbey was completed in 1146. Other buildings in the complex were added over the next 50 years. The abbey was built in the Gothic manner and in the form of a St. John's Cross. A considerable portion of the abbey is now in ruins. A structure dating from 1590 is maintained as a museum open to the public. Alexander II and other Scottish kings and nobles are buried at

224-459: A Gothic church in the U.S. and patterned it after Melrose Abbey. The church, Kirk in the Hills , completed in 1958, is located on a 40-acre (160,000 m ) lakeside setting 20 miles (32 km) north of Detroit . The abbey was built in the video game Minecraft by 4J Studios in 2015. The build was featured one of the game's official tutorial worlds (TU31), the one for version 1.8. The abbey

280-505: A bend of the River Tweed , a graveyard marks the site. Saint Cuthbert (died 687), who grew up nearby, trained at Old Melrose abbey. He was prior from 662 before he moved to Lindisfarne (Holy Island). Æthelweald was a novice at Lindisfarne when Cuthbert became bishop. He attended Cuthbert on some of his missionary journeys, and witnessed at least one of his miracles . He later became prior and then abbot at Melrose. Saint Oduvald (died 698)

336-515: A bodysnatching raid in 1830. There was also (now demolished) a large United Presbyterian Church at the West Port. The manse still stands, but is now a private residence. In 2015 Lauder's population was estimated by the National Records of Scotland as 1,803. Lauder is today strongly influenced by its proximity to Edinburgh as it is now considered to be close enough for people to commute into

392-425: A community council for a former Royal burgh is not able to use the words "Royal Burgh" in its title; and what scope there is for the continuance of historical titles under the present organisation of local authorities." In reply, McElhone stated: "The title which may be used by a community council is a matter for the district council to decide when drawing up the scheme for community councils in its area. Section 23 of

448-505: A heart was found beneath Chapter House floor, March 1921, by His Majesty's Office of Works ." The casket was investigated by AOC archaeology in Leith and contained a still recognisable human heart in a thick black liquor. As there are no records of anyone else's heart being buried at Melrose it was presumed to be that of Robert the Bruce. The container was reburied at Melrose Abbey on 22 June 1998 under

504-536: A la langley en la terre de Meuros [Melrose] le quartior de Septembre en lan de grace MCCC et disneifme." Above the burgh of Lauder, abutting Lauder Moor and the boundaries of Wedale and the lands of Ladypart, were the lands of Alanshaws, granted to the monks of Melrose by Alan of Galloway , the Constable of Scotland . By 1500 these too were in the hands of the Lauders, probably by feu. The superiority of Ladypart remained in

560-516: A memorial stone. There was no attempt to use DNA to see if the heart belonged to King Robert. There is no record of any other heart being buried on the site; however, the Chapter House would be an unusual location for a king's heart to be buried: most high-status burials would have happened next to the altar. The abbey is laid out on a traditional east–west axis. The west section is almost wholly absent other than its foundations. The eastern section

616-608: A time when Newcastle was under Scottish rule. A mid-twelfth century date corresponds to the reigns of two Scottish kings: David I (1124-1153) and William I (1165-1214). In 1609, the publisher of the Laws of the Burghs stated that burgh laws were begun by David I, but this was called into question in 1807 by George Chalmers, who pointed out that David I never held Newcastle. At any rate, Whyte notes that medieval Scottish burghs, when compared to their English counterparts, were more uniform and, by

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672-558: Is a partly ruined monastery of the Cistercian order in Melrose , Roxburghshire , in the Scottish Borders . It was founded in 1136 by Cistercian monks at the request of King David I of Scotland and was the chief house of that order in the country until the Reformation . It was headed by the abbot or commendator of Melrose . Today the abbey is maintained by Historic Environment Scotland as

728-600: Is more intact. A graveyard serving the local community lies to the south and southeast of the abbey. The majority of stones date from the 19th century. The abbey is the only Scottish abbey to still retain some of its original floor tiles. The northern cloisters are equally erased to foundation level. Sir Walter Scott described Melrose Abbey in one of his poems, "The Lay of the Last Minstrel, Canto Second". A Presbyterian congregation in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan , built

784-425: Is now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland . Robert Bruce's heart is said to have been buried in the church, perhaps brought back from a crusade with the body of Lord Douglas in either 1330 or 1331. The position was marked by a small metal plaque. In 1996, an archaeological excavation on the site unearthed a conical lead container and an engraved copper plaque that read "The enclosed leaden casket containing

840-458: The English Civil War . In 1618, a portion of the abbey's church was converted into a parish church for the surrounding town. A plain vault was inserted into the crossing, removing the original ribbed vaulting in the central section. It was used until 1810 when a new church was erected in the town. In 1812, a stone coffin was exhumed from the aisle in the abbey's south chancel. Some speculated

896-556: The Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973 , and the above-mentioned Article XXI, which was thus rendered redundant, was deemed by Her Majesty's Government to be abrogated by the 1973 act. The towns are now sometimes referred to officially as "former royal burghs", for instance by the Local Government Boundary Commission for Scotland . The issue of the future status of royal burghs was discussed during debate on

952-479: The pyx that had been suspended over the high altar and gave it to the Earl of Rutland . War damage led to its decline as a working monastery. The last abbot was James Stuart (an illegitimate son of James V ), who died in 1557. In 1590, Melrose's last monk died. The abbey withstood one final assault, and some of its walls still show the marks of cannon fire after having been bombarded by Oliver Cromwell 's troops during

1008-642: The Free Kirk Manse and the County Police Station, close by the Easter Port. The road west from the town crossed the Midrow and passed Tower Yard, then passed by Lauder Mill. A continuation of the road went onwards to Chester Hill. It was not taken down until 1700. In 1837 "the new United Presbyterian manse was built on a site which was purchased, for £115, from Baillie [George] Lauder." Notable buildings in

1064-547: The Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973 governs any change of name of region, islands or district councils. There is no statutory ban to the continuance of historic titles for other purposes." Accordingly, some community councils established since 1975 have the term "Royal Burgh" incorporated in their title. Lord Lyon has permitted the armorial bearings of a number of royal burghs to be rematriculated by community councils. Melrose Abbey St Mary's Abbey, Melrose

1120-656: The Local Government Bill. In the Commons on 4 December 1972 Ronald Murray , the Member of Parliament (MP) for Edinburgh, Leith , stated "Most of the well-known cities and towns of Scotland became royal burghs by Charter. The Bill does not say that those Charters are removed or are of no legal effect, but Schedule 24 repeals the legislation upon which they appear to stand. I hope that the Government do not intend to abolish entirely

1176-555: The Roman road known as Dere Street , which passed through Lauder. Hardie suggests that it had been reconditioned by Malcolm III for use in his almost constant warfare against England. It is the only old road in Scotland that is associated with the name of an individual person. The ancient settlement was further up the hills on the edge of the Moor. The present town of Lauder existed as a kirk-town in

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1232-602: The Scottish kingdom. Rosemarkie , Dingwall and Cromarty were also burghs by the Scottish Wars of Independence . The date of the initial establishment of burghs in Scotland is obscure. Historian Ian D. Whyte points to the Leges Burgorum ( Laws of the Burghs ) as the best known compilation of medieval burgh laws, saying that most of the laws therein “were modelled on the mid-twelfth century customs of Newcastle upon Tyne ” at

1288-418: The abbey's stairways is an inscription by John Morow, a master mason, which says, Be halde to ye hende ("Keep in mind, the end, your salvation"). This has become the motto of the town of Melrose. An earlier monastery was founded by, then later dedicated to, Saint Aidan of Lindisfarne on a site about two miles (3.5 km) east of Melrose Abbey. This was shortly before his death in 651 at Bamburgh . Set in

1344-463: The abbey. A lead container believed to hold the embalmed heart of Robert the Bruce was found in 1921 below the Chapter House site; it was found again in a 1998 excavation and documented in records of his death. The rest of his body is buried in Dunfermline Abbey . The abbey is known for its many carved decorative details, including likenesses of saints, dragons, gargoyles and plants. On one of

1400-401: The ancient family, although Windpark/Wyndepark (which overlooked Thirlestane Castle) and its Pele Tower remained in the hands of John Lauder of Winepark and Carolside (near Earlston ), until about 1750. Near to the old Crown Fort stood the ancient parish church of St. Mary (a dependency of Dryburgh Abbey ). In a Writ of c1217 an "Everardus" is recorded as pastor of Laweder, and in 1245 there

1456-606: The ancient rights of royal burghs, at least to be royal burghs." In June 1973, David Steel (MP for Roxburgh, Selkirk and Peebles ), unsuccessfully introduced an amendment that "the title of "Provost" shall attach to the chairman of any community council which is based on any existing burgh .. to .. carry forward a title which appears, for example, in the Royal Charters of those burghs". In 1977, Alick Buchanan-Smith (MP for North Angus and Mearns ) asked Frank McElhone , Parliamentary Under-Secretary of State for Scotland : "Why

1512-466: The capital for work. The bus service to Edinburgh is reliable but infrequent, with 8 buses daily. Recent developments in Lauder include the construction of a new primary school, a new health centre, and the expansion of the nearby Dun Law wind farm . Royal Burgh A royal burgh ( / ˈ b ʌ r ə / BURR -ə ) was a type of Scottish burgh which had been founded by, or subsequently granted,

1568-749: The castle. In 1548 the fort was occupied and strengthened by Somerset, the Protector, and garrisoned by Sir Hugh Willoughby 'in the end of winter and beginning of spring'. After a minor siege with French cannon, it was evacuated on 22 March 1550. The following year John Haitlie in Fawns and William Haitlie in Redpath (near Earlston ) were arrested for "treasonably supplying the English in the Castle of Lauder, thereby enabling them to hold out longer." The Crown which had in any case abandoned

1624-474: The church some 60 yards from the west front, and the bridge some quarter-mile to the north-east. With their local ascendancy, and with Thirlestane Castle becoming even grander, John Maitland, 1st Duke of Lauderdale decided he would demolish the ancient kirk , and had a new church erected by Sir William Bruce in 1673 in the centre of the Royal Burgh. Around it is a walled graveyard, with a watchhouse built after

1680-563: The current site. It was said to have been built in ten years. The church of the convent was dedicated to St. Mary (like all Cistercian houses) on 28 July 1146. The abbey became the mother church of the order in Scotland. Its first community came from Rievaulx Abbey , the North Yorkshire house colonised from Cîteaux. In the 12th century, around Melrose, the Cistercians implemented new farming techniques and marketed Melrose wool throughout

1736-609: The dozen. The list is based on the following references. The rights of the royal burghs were preserved (if not guaranteed) by Article XXI of the Treaty of Union between Scotland and England of 1707, which states "That the Rights and Privileges of the Royal Boroughs in Scotland as they now are Do Remain entire after the Union and notwithstanding thereof". Royal burghs were abolished in 1975 by

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1792-470: The earliest sources Lauder appears as Lawedder and Loweder . The name may be derived from the Brittonic lǭwadr , meaning "washing or bathing place" ( Breton laouer ). Or else, Lauder may be named from a word related to Middle Welsh llawedrawr , "a heap of ruins". Below Lauder are the lands of Kedslie which were bounded on the west by a road called "Malcolm's rode", and it is thought this formed part of

1848-516: The election of the town councils that governed royal burghs. Those qualified to vote in parliamentary elections under the Reform Act 1832 were now entitled to elect burgh councillors. Before the reign of David I Scotland had no towns. The closest thing to towns were the larger than average population concentrations around large monasteries, such as Dunkeld and St Andrews , and regionally significant fortifications. Scotland, outside Lothian at least,

1904-792: The entire valley of Lauderdale which, by his own demarcation recorded in the Chronicle of Melrose , stopped at the Lauder burn south of the town. This appears to be confirmed by the fact that a charter mentions Hugo de Morville possessing half of the mill of Lauder being the mill lands and rights south of the Lauder Burn, the other half being in the possession of the Lauder family. De Morville's inheritance passed to Alan of Galloway and later, to his daughter Ellen who had married Roger de Quincy, 2nd Earl of Winchester . Their daughter Margaret (d.1280) married William de Ferrers, 5th Earl of Derby and in 1290 their son "the late Sir William de Ferrers, Knt.," (d.1287)

1960-490: The establishment of burghs at Elgin and Forres . Before David was dead, St Andrews, Montrose , and Aberdeen were also burghs. In the reigns of Máel Coluim IV and William, burghs were added at Inverness , Banff , Cullen , Auldearn , Nairn , Inverurie , Kintore , Brechin , Forfar , Arbroath , Dundee , Lanark , Dumfries and (uniquely for the west coast) Ayr . New Lothian burghs also came into existence, at Haddington and Peebles . By 1210, there were 40 burghs in

2016-593: The family of de Lawedre were "there in the previous century." About 1170 Richard de Morville , Constable of Scotland, made a donation to the Brethren of the Hospital at Lauder, in 1245 a chapter of the clergy of East Lothian met at Lauder, and between 1248 and 1252 Emericus is recorded as Rector of Lauder. Joseph Bain states that the de Morville's held one-third of half Lauder and Lauderdale for one knight's service. It would appear that de Morville's superiority did not extend over

2072-472: The fort during its occupation, had given it to Robert Lauder of that Ilk (d. bef July 1567), who provided it, in 1532, to his daughter Alison as dowry when she married. Following she and her husband's deaths in feuds in 1547 it reverted to Robert Lauder whose wife was Alison Cranstoun. A Cranstoun relation later sold it on to Chancellor John Maitland in 1587. He commenced the building of the magnificent Thirlestane Castle upon that site two years later, parts of

2128-522: The fourteenth century, more politically active. Because of Scottish trading patterns, Scottish burghs came to be populated by foreigners, notably Flemings, French, and English. The burgh's vocabulary was composed totally of either Germanic terms (not necessarily or even predominantly English) such as croft , rood , gild , gait and wynd , or French ones such as provost , bailie , vennel , port and ferme . The councils that governed individual burghs were individually known as lie doussane , meaning

2184-492: The granddaughter of the last Robert Lauder of that Ilk (d. before July 1655) was retoured heir to it. The same Robert de Lawedre was one of the witnesses to two charters of confirmation to Jedburgh Abbey on 20 December 1316, signed at Berwick-upon-Tweed . A document written in French, and dated 4 September 1319, entitled: "Lettre d'attorne pur doner seysine," and is granted to "Robert de Lawedir Justice de Lounes, [Lothians]....Donez

2240-409: The great trading ports across northern Europe. A town slowly grew up around the abbey. During a time of famine four thousand starving people were fed by the monastery for three months. The monastery had 100 monks, exclusive of the abbot and dignitaries. The privileges and possessions of the abbey were very extensive. Its founder David endowed it with the lands of Melrose, Eildon, and other places; and

2296-475: The hands of the Lauder of Bass family until the 17th century, reconfirmed to Robert Lauder of The Bass (d. 1576). This family erected a Scottish tower house , "the beginning of authentic history as far as the town is concerned," around which the present town grew, and "Alan Lawedir of the Tower of Lawedir" is mentioned in 1445. Lauder Tower stood in what in 1903 was known as Tower Yard, a garden area then bounded by

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2352-498: The major part of the inheritance sold. The old family is today represented by Sir Piers Dick-Lauder , 13th Baronet. Below the town, on Castle Hill, stood the Crown Fort, a scene of many skirmishes over the years. It is shown on Timothy Pont 's map. Early records give de Morville a castle at Lauder, but it would appear that there was a new erection of it by the English in the reign of King Edward I . James III and James IV both used

2408-518: The original walls of the ancient fort being included in the walls of the new edifice. In 1670-7 Sir William Bruce , known as a 'gentleman architect', supervised its transformation into a palace through remodelling for the Duke of Lauderdale. By the 18th century the Maitlands had supplanted the ancient Lauders as the pre-eminent local family, and had managed to acquire most of the properties which had belonged to

2464-507: The premier abbey in Scotland. The tomb of St. Waltheof, in the chapter house, later became the focus of pilgrimage. One of the earliest accounts of the Magna Carta agreement reached at Runnymede in 1215 is found in the Chronicle of Melrose Abbey . Melrose was located on one of the main roads running from Edinburgh to the south making it particularly vulnerable to attack. In 1322, the town

2520-499: The remains were those of Michael Scot , the philosopher and "wizard." At the beginning of the nineteenth century, Sir Walter Scott was appointed Sheriff-Depute of Roxburghshire. In 1822, with the financial assistance of the Duke of Buccleuch , Sir Walter supervised the extensive repair work that was to preserve the ruins. In 1918, the duke gave the ruins to the state, by which time the abbey had undergone further restoration and repair. It

2576-497: The right of fishery on the River Tweed. Succeeding monarchs increased their property. The house was famed for its wealth, for many of its abbots were men of distinction and honour. Waltheof of Melrose , stepson of King David and at one time prior of Kirkham, was abbot of Melrose from 1148 to 1159. He endowed Melrose with a reputation for sanctity and learning which placed it on a par with houses such as Fountains and Rievaulx and made it

2632-579: The time of David I (1124–53), or from in the latter half of the twelfth century. The town was once surrounded by walls with gates commonly referred to as 'ports'. Two major mills, which dated from the 12th century, also served the town. With the introduction of the feudal system to Scotland by David I, a provincial Lordship of Regality of Lauderdale , had been created for the King's favourite, Hugh de Morville (who founded Dryburgh Abbey ), which covered an extensive amount of territory, although Thomson states that

2688-500: The town today include the former tolbooth , Lauder Town Hall , which predates 1598 when records show it being burnt by a party of Homes and Cranstouns led by Lord Home who killed a prisoner William Lawther. The last of the ancient proprietors, Robert Lauder of that Ilk (d.c1655), bequeathed the tower house and other lands to his daughter Isobel, who had married Alexander Home of St. Leonards, in Lauderdale, both dead by November 1683,

2744-620: Was a Chapter of the Clergy of East Lothian at Lauder on Saturday after the Feast of Saint Peter , ad vincula , when a dispute was settled between the Priory of St. Andrews and the nuns of Haddington , regarding the tithes of Stevenstoun, nr. Haddington. In this original church many of the old Lauder family were interred, including two bishops, William de Lawedre , Bishop of Glasgow and Lord Chancellor of Scotland , and Alexander Lauder , Bishop of Dunkeld . It

2800-455: Was a Scottish nobleman who followed Cuthbert as abbot. The visionary Dryhthelm was also a monk there in the early eighth century. The abbey site was raided by Kenneth I of Scotland in 839. Melrose was the first Cistercian abbey in Scotland. King David I wanted the new abbey to be built on the same site, but the Cistercians insisted that the land was not good enough for farming and selected

2856-478: Was attacked by the army of Edward II , and much of the abbey was destroyed. It was rebuilt by order of King Robert the Bruce , with Sir James Douglas being the principal auditor of finance for the project. In 1385, the abbey was burned by the army of Richard II of England , "partly because of support for the Avignon Pope Clement VII" he forced the army of Robert II of Scotland back to Edinburgh. It

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2912-418: Was from this church, in 1482, that James III's favourites, including the architect Robert Cochrane , and his tailor James Homyll , were dragged by envious nobles led by Archibald Douglas, 5th Earl of Angus and hanged from the (earlier) Lauder Bridge. The sites of the ancient kirk and the bridge from which Cochrane and his colleagues met their demise, are now within the immediate policies of Thirlestane Castle,

2968-496: Was its burgh charter , creating the burgh or confirming the rights of the burgh as laid down (perhaps orally) by a previous monarch. Each royal burgh (with the exception of four 'inactive burghs') was represented in the Parliament of Scotland and could appoint bailies with wide powers in civil and criminal justice . By 1707 there were 70 royal burghs. The Royal Burghs (Scotland) Act 1833 ( 3 & 4 Will. 4 . c. 76) reformed

3024-399: Was on record as holding them. An early member of the Lauder family, Sir Robert de Lawedre of The Bass (c1275 – September 1337) was Justiciar of Lothian as early as 1316. He received a charter dated 4 March 1316, from John Graham of Abercorn, of his lands of Dalcoif, parish of Merton, Berwickshire. The superiority of this property remained in that family for centuries. In 1683 Christina Home,

3080-633: Was populated by scattered hamlets, and outside that area, lacked the continental style nucleated village. David I established the first burghs in Scotland, initially only in Middle-English -speaking Lothian (note: Tain claims a charter dating from 1066 under Malcolm III). The earliest burghs, founded by 1124, were Berwick and Roxburgh . However, by 1130, David had established burghs in Gaelic areas: Stirling , Dunfermline , Perth and Scone , as well as Edinburgh . The conquest of Moray in that same year led to

3136-499: Was rebuilt over a period of about 100 years – construction was still unfinished when James IV visited in 1504. From 1541, the abbacy was held by a series of commendators . In 1544, as English armies raged across Scotland in an effort to force the Scots to allow the infant Mary, Queen of Scots to marry the son of Henry VIII , the abbey was again badly damaged and was never fully repaired. On 29 September 1549 an English soldier discovered

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