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57-458: Jean Elizabeth Muir CBE FCSD ( / m jʊər / MURE ; 17 July 1928 – 28 May 1995) was a British fashion designer. Jean Muir was born in London, the daughter of Cyril Muir, a draper 's floor superintendent, and his wife, Phyllis Coy. Her father was an Aberdonian , and Muir would attribute her creative pragmatism and self-discipline to this Scottish ancestry. Her parents separated while she

114-612: A Jane & Jane dress in printed Liberty silk, which is preserved as part of the Dress Of The Year collection at the Fashion Museum, Bath . From the outset, Muir's designs demonstrated the pared-down understatement and easy fit that would become her design signature. Jane & Jane was one of the first companies to bring couture standards and quality to the wholesale fashion industry. Muir used Liberty textiles in many of her designs. After Muir left in 1966 to launch Jean Muir Ltd.,

171-429: A broader range of colors and to render the dyes more stable for washing and general use. Different classes of dyes are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process, from loose fibers through yarn and cloth to complete garments. Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, while nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes , and polyester yarn

228-483: A daughter, Friederike, with another woman. His wife was aware of this, and Leuckert continued to live with her whilst paying regular visits to his daughter and her mother, Ingrid, in Germany. According to Friederike, this was normal: Leuckert married Ingrid following the death of his wife. Friederike went on to become manager of the flagship Jean Muir shop in London when it opened in 2004. Jean Muir died in 1995, aged 67, at

285-452: A focus on form and fluidity. She made coats and jackets from soft leather and supple suede. Muir rarely used printed textiles, and avoided unnecessary decoration. Where she used decoration, it was integral to the garment, such as pintucking, decorative but functional buttons or rows of parallel topstitching on cuffs or collars for reinforcement. During the 1980s, Muir sometimes decorated clothing with sequins. Muir's designs were aimed towards

342-402: A group of four designers who had all formerly worked with Muir. In 2004, the first Jean Muir Ltd. shop was opened on Conduit Street, London. It was managed by Leuckert's daughter Friederike. On 19 January 2007, the directors announced that Jean Muir Ltd. would be closing down. Leuckert made a statement to the effect that he had hoped that they could take the retail route based on the success of

399-436: A piece of cotton dyed with a vegetable dye was recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro (3rd millennium BCE). The dye used in this case was madder , which, along with other dyes such as indigo , was introduced to other regions through trade. Natural insect dyes such as Cochineal and kermes and plant-based dyes such as woad , indigo and madder were important elements of the economies of Asia and Europe until

456-407: A practical and chemical understanding of how each fabric responded differently to the dye, how much it would shrink, how much color it would absorb, developing entirely new forms of quality control to verify possible defects in fabric before dyeing etc. Beyond the industrial advantages of the technique (purchasing fabric in one color, white or natural, you may produce as many colors as you wish etc.),

513-679: A prehistoric cave in the Georgia and dates back to 34,000 BC. More evidence of textile dyeing dates back to the Neolithic period at the large Neolithic settlement at Çatalhöyük in southern Anatolia , where traces of red dyes, possibly from ocher , an iron oxide pigment derived from clay , were found. In China , dyeing with plants, barks , and insects has been traced back more than 5,000 years. Early evidence of dyeing comes from Sindh province in Ancient India modern day Pakistan , where

570-404: A product is dyed varies depending on its intended end use, the cost to the manufacturer, its desired appearance, and the resources available, amongst other reasons. There are specific terms to describe these dyeing methods, such as: There are various terms used in the manufacturing and marketing industries depending on the method used to dye the substrate. For example, "stock dyed" refers to dyeing

627-457: A solicitor's office before taking a stockroom job at Liberty & Co in 1950. She worked her way upwards to selling over the counter, and then despite her lack of formal art college training, was given the opportunity to sketch in Liberty's ready to wear department. This would serve as her apprenticeship , and led to her gaining a job as designer for Jaeger in 1956. While there, she helped develop

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684-681: Is a semi-continuous dyeing process. Waterless dyeing, also known as dry dyeing, is the newly developed and more sustainable dyeing method in which the dyes are applied to the substrate with the help of carbon dioxide or solutions that need less or no water compared to their counterparts. The selection of the appropriate dyes is most important because any given dye does not apply to every type of fiber . Dyes are classified according to many parameters, such as chemical structure, affinity, application method, desired colour fastness i.e. resistance to washing, rubbing, and light. The properties may vary with different dyes. The selection of dye depends on

741-523: Is dyed with dispersed dyes . Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes , and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes. The word 'dye' ( / ˈ d aɪ / , DIE ) comes from the Middle English 'deie' , and from the Old English 'dag' and 'dah' . The first known use of the word 'dye' was before the 12th century. The earliest dyed flax fibers have been found in

798-467: Is higher than the continuous dyeing method. There are three corresponding ways of dyeing with the exhaust method. In continuous method dye is transported to the substrate by passing it through the different stages but continuously. The continuous method is an innovative method where many discrete dyeing stages are combined, such as applying color, fixation and, washing off of unfixed dyes. Types of continuous dyeing are as follows Cold pad batch method

855-469: Is still practiced almost exclusively in Italy, by a handful of premium brands and suppliers who remain committed to the art. There are several terms associated with the process of dyeing: Affinity refers to the chemical attraction between two elements or substances, leading to their inclination to unite or combine, as observed between fiber and dyestuff. Materials that exhibit bleeding tendencies may lead to

912-399: Is the assessment of hazards to human health and the environment . There are many dyes especially disperse dyes that may cause allergic reactions to some individuals, and the negative impact on the environment. There are national and international standards and regulations which need to comply. The term "direct dye application" stems from some dyestuff having to be either fermented as in

969-451: Is the only Royal Chartered body of experienced designers. Its membership is multi-disciplinary – representing designers in all design, disciplines including Interior Design , Product Design , Graphic Design , Fashion and Textile Design . The institute dates back to 1898 and can trace its origins as far back as 1236 to the Guild of Peynters and Stainers. The Society of Industrial Artists

1026-663: The London Clinic , of breast cancer . She was buried at St Bartholomew's Church in Whittingham, Northumberland . At the funeral, by request of the deceased, her friends all wore black with white flowers. She had kept her terminal illness secret from even close friends, working right up to the end. Shortly before her death, she began fundraising for the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh . Her husband and Jean Muir Ltd. continued

1083-502: The Young Jaeger fashion label. Upon leaving Jaeger, Muir was approached by David Barnes, a mass-market jersey dress manufacturer, who was keen to have her talents on board as a designer for his brand. Muir declined, as she did not wish to design for the mass market. Undeterred, Barnes offered to fund her own design label, and so Jane & Jane launched in 1962. In 1964, Jean Muir won the first of her three Dress Of The Year awards for

1140-455: The post-nominal letters , MCSD (TM) or FCSD (TM) (indicating Member or Fellow , respectively). Other postnominals awarded by this Society include: HonFCSD, HonMCSD, Assoc.CSD, aCSDf , CSDm. All postnominals are registered trademarks. The Royal Charter for this Society states: " The Society exists to promote concern for the sound principles of design in all areas in which design considerations apply, to further design practice, and to encourage

1197-427: The substrate , which may be a fiber, yarn, or fabric, while meeting specified colour fastness requirements. Tie-dye and printing are the methods where the color is applied in a localized manner. In the exhaust method, the dye is transported to the substrate by the dye liquor's motion. The dye is adsorbed onto the fibre surface and ideally diffuses into the whole of the fibre. Water consumption in exhaust application

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1254-528: The 1870s commercial dyeing with natural dyestuffs was disappearing. An important characteristic was light-fastness - resistance to fading when exposed to sunlight using industrial techniques such as those developed by James Morton . Dyeing can be applied at various stages within the textile manufacturing process; for example, fibers may be dyed before being spun into yarns, and yarns may be dyed before being woven into fabrics. Fabrics and sometimes finished garments themselves may also be dyed. The stage at which

1311-464: The Conduit Street shop. This required substantial outside investment, but they had not been able to come to any agreement with interested parties. He further said: The Jean Muir shop continued to trade, stocking the final collection for Spring/Summer 2007, before it closed down for good. The actress Joanna Lumley was Muir's first house model, and became a muse, close friend and loyal customer. She

1368-499: The Dress Of The Year award two more times: In 1968 for a ruffled white voile dress with black polka dots; and in 1979 for an ensemble comprising a black rayon jersey beret and dress worn with a black leather jacket. As with her 1964 design, these outfits are preserved at the Fashion Museum, Bath . From 1985, the majority interest in Jean Muir Ltd. was held by the textile manufacturer Coats PLC . Muir regained ownership in 1989. Muir

1425-616: The Jane & Jane brand was sold to the ready-to-wear fashion house Susan Small , where it continued for several years before quietly disappearing circa 1970. Jean Muir Ltd. was founded in August 1966 by Jean Muir and her husband Harry Leuckert in partnership. The first collection was presented in October. The designs continued the tradition established at Jane & Jane. Muir used the best quality fabrics, working in silk, cashmere, jersey and crepe, with

1482-481: The Museum. In April 2021 English Heritage announced that Muir was one of six women who they were honouring with a blue plaque this year, marking the central London showroom and office of her flagship brand, Jean Muir Ltd. Chartered Society of Designers D Callcott (PPCSD Vice President) Chris Ramsden (PPCSD Vice President) The Chartered Society of Designers (CSD) is a professional body for designers. It

1539-532: The Prize to international nominations. The Prince Philip Student Design Awards were also approved by the Society's Patron. The awards will be made to students across a range of design disciplines. Dyer (occupation) The primary source of dye, historically, has been nature , with the dyes being extracted from plants or animals . Since the mid-19th century, however, humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve

1596-441: The artistic advantages of the technique were considerable and in many ways paved the way for the creation of the clothing style today known as Italian Sportswear. These advantages included The disadvantages included: Today, whilst garment dyeing is a diffusely employed as an industrial technique around the globe, predominantly in the production of vintage style cotton garments and by fast fashion suppliers, complex garment dyeing

1653-515: The author and historian Lady Antonia Fraser and the publisher Carmen Callil . Other fans of vintage Muir include Kate Moss and Stella McCartney . In 1955, Jean Muir married a German actor, Harry Leuckert, with whom she co-founded Jean Muir Ltd. and lived in London and Lorbottle Hall near Alnwick in Northumberland . Their marriage was unconventional, described by Leuckert as "wonderful and loving, but never singular". In 1976, Leuckert fathered

1710-659: The award of Chartered Designer. In 2010, the CSD launched the Course Endorsement Programme (CEP), which was first accredited overseas, in Switzerland, in 2015. In 2016, it took over the management of the Prince Philip Designers Prize established in 1959 by its Patron The Duke of Edinburgh. The Society is governed by Royal charter (granted in 1976). Members are obliged by a Code of Conduct to practice to

1767-549: The case of some natural dye or chemically reduced as in the case of synthetic vat and sulfur dyes before being applied. This renders the dye soluble so that it can be absorbed by the fiber since the insoluble dye has very little substantivity to the fiber. Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for dyeing cotton, are water-soluble and can be applied directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way. The term may also be applied to dyeing without

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1824-438: The discovery of man-made synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century. The first synthetic dye was William Perkin 's mauveine in 1856, derived from coal tar . Alizarin , the red dye present in madder, was the first natural pigment to be duplicated synthetically in 1869, a development which led to the collapse of the market for naturally grown madder. The development of new, strongly colored synthetic dyes followed quickly, and by

1881-430: The dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered. Space dyeing is a technique of localized color application that produces a unique multicolored effect. Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments subsequent to manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre-dyed fabrics. Up until the mid-1970s the method was rarely used for commercial clothing production. It

1938-439: The fibers before making the yarn, "yarn dyed" refers to dyeing the yarns before producing fabrics, and "piece dyed" or "fabric dyed" refers to dyeing the yarns after they are converted into fabric. The fastness of fiber- and yarn-dyed materials is superior to that of fabrics. The primary objective of the dyeing process is to achieve uniform color application in accordance with a predetermined color matching standard or reference on

1995-399: The fund is to make awards to members who have suffered severe hardship or trauma in order that they may be able to continue with design study or practice. The Prince Philip Designers Prize was instigated by CSD's Patron, The Duke of Edinburgh in 1959 and was awarded annually until 2011. The award was made to a British designer or design-team leader whose exemplary work has had an effect on

2052-427: The highest professional standards. CSD is a registered charity (UK Registered Charity Number 279393). Its Royal Patron was Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh . CSD is not a trade body/association and functions as a learned society . Membership in the Society is awarded to qualified designers who demonstrate competence against CPSK (TM) (Creativity, Professionalism, Skills and Knowledge). Members are identified using

2109-542: The life and success of the Society. Consideration is given to those who have played a leading role in the work of CSD and assisted it to achieve its objects under the Royal Charter. This award has only been recently introduced, the first award was made in 2015. Winners: The Minerva Medal is the highest award the Society can give to its members, usually for an overall lifetime achievement in design. Many who have received it are recognisable names, each having helped to raise

2166-508: The objective in dyeing and affinity (to which material is to be dyed). Fastness of color largely depends upon the molecular size of the dyes and the solubility. Larger molecular size serves better washing fastness results. Indigo dyes have a poor wash and rubbing fastness on denim (cotton), so they are used to produce washed-down effects on fabrics. In contrast, vat or reactive dyes are applied to cotton to achieve excellent washing fastness. The next important criterion for selecting dyes

2223-424: The package form and the hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are always dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because of technology. The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is as follows: After this process,

2280-504: The perception of design by the public, and on the status of designers in society. A representative from the CSD, along with those from other design organisations, sat on the panel of judges who met at Buckingham Palace to determine the winner from a shortlist of inspiring designers in all fields of activity. The nominations were received from various professional bodies. The winner of the Prince Philip Designers Prize in 2005

2337-598: The pioneering of not just the industrial use of traditional garment dyeing (dyeing simple cotton or wool garments) but, more importantly, the technique of “complex garment dyeing” which involved dyeing fully fashioned garments which had been constructed from multiple fabric or fiber types (e.g. a jacket made from both nylon and cotton, or linen, nylon and polyurethane coated cotton) in the same bath. Up until its development by Osti (for his clothing brand C.P. Company ), this technique had never been successfully industrially applied in any context. The complexity lay in developing both

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2394-403: The professionalism of design. The Medal is cast from sterling silver, bearing the profile of Minerva , Roman Goddess of Wisdom , Knowledge and Education, and the CSD logo. Past winners include: The CSD Life Fund was established through the generosity of a group of CSD Fellows in 2000. Since then the fund has grown substantially through donations from other Society members. The aim of

2451-610: The staining of white or light-colored fabrics in contact with them while in a wet state. The phenomenon of color fading from a fabric or yarn upon immersion in water, solvent, or a comparable liquid medium, arises due to inadequate dyeing or the utilization of inferior quality dyes. Fabric can experience undesired color absorption, resulting in staining, when exposed to water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquids containing unintended dyestuffs or coloring materials. Additionally, direct contact with other dyed materials may cause color transfer through bleeding or sublimation. Stripping

2508-452: The study of design techniques for the benefit of the community. To secure and promote a professional body of designers and regulate and control their practice for the benefit of the design industry and the general public. " The Chartered Society of Designers maintains the Register of Chartered Designers for the design profession and has Royal power to grant licences to design bodies and to award

2565-442: The title 'Chartered Designer' (a registered trademark). The society's head office is at 1 Cedar Court, Royal Oak Yard, Bermondsey Street, London. A wide variety of books have been published under the "Chartered Society of Designers". CSD has an awards programme to ensure that designers are recognised for their work. The Minerva Service Award is to be awarded to members of the Society who have made an outstanding contribution to

2622-557: The use of mordants to fix the dye once it is applied. Mordants were often required to alter the hue and intensity of natural dyes and improve color fastness . Chromium salts were until recently extensively used in dyeing wool with synthetic mordant dyes. These were used for economical high color fastness dark shades such as black and navy . Environmental concerns have now restricted their use, and they have been replaced with reactive and metal complex dyes that do not require mordant. There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are

2679-498: The wearer to hold her shoulders back confidently. She eliminated bust darts as she preferred to mould fabric rather than cut it. Her designs were intended to fit into a limited and integrated wardrobe, and to avoid distracting the wearer. Despite being known to posterity almost exclusively for black dresses, her eye for colour was very definite. She favoured dark and deep blues, very dark greens, and heather -toned purples as well as intensely bright orange and deep saffron yellow . She

2736-426: The woman with a mature outlook, regardless of age. She avoided creating clothes for fantasy figures, but focused on modern, restrained elegance. She ignored the fads of high fashion design, but focused on creating a consistently evolving series of understated, sober clothes. She was a sensualist who cared about how her clothes felt to wear as well as how they looked to others. Muir placed pockets at hip level to encourage

2793-529: The work begun, and pledged money in her memory, as did many of her personal friends and loyal customers. In recognition of her work, the Museum's Silver Room is dedicated to Jean Muir, while Jean Muir Ltd is named upon the founder's stone at the Museum entrance. In 2005, Leuckert donated Jean Muir's archive collection of her fashion and accessory designs to the National Museums of Scotland. A special exhibition on Muir's design career opened on 7 November 2008 at

2850-426: Was a perfectionist about her colours, working closely with fabric mills and dyers to achieve her ideal tones. Muir has been described as bringing common sense to clothing design to the pitch of genius. Jane Mulvagh describes Muir clothes as being comfortable and effortless, and, "once donned, easily forgotten by the wearer but never the beholder." Following her 1964 win whilst at Jane & Jane, Muir went on to win

2907-536: Was formed in 1930 following an inaugural meeting at the Ye Olde Cock Tavern in London's Fleet Street . The first regional group formed in Stafford , West Midlands, in 1932. In 1951, the Society and its members took a leading role in the redesign of Britain after World War II . In 1963, it changed its name to Society of Industrial Artists and Designers. In 1976, the Society of Industrial Artists and Designers

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2964-518: Was granted the Royal Charter in recognition of its role in establishing the profession of design. The Duke of Edinburgh became the Society's patron. In 1986, The Society changed its name to Chartered Society of Designers, and set up The Design Business Association. In 1988, it incorporated the British Institute of Interior Design . In 2011, it was granted the power by HM The Queen Elizabeth to set up The Register of Chartered Designers and enabling

3021-540: Was made a Fellow of the Chartered Society of Designers , and was a recipient of the Minerva Medal, the Society's highest award. In 1984, she was awarded a CBE . Muir also received an Honorary Doctorate from Heriot-Watt University in 1992 The company continued despite Jean Muir's death in 1995. Leuckert continued his directorship, while the designs were produced under the supervision of Joyce Fenton-Douglas and

3078-464: Was often photographed modelling Muir's designs in the fashion press. Other well-known Muir clients included Lauren Bacall , Maggie Smith , Judi Dench , Charlotte Rampling , Julie Walters , Joan Plowright , Dr. Miriam Stoppard and Patricia Hodge . In 1967, Muir provided Eleanor Bron 's wardrobe for the 1967 film Bedazzled . She did the wardrobe for only one other film, Betrayal , in 1983. Her designs were also worn by public figures such as

3135-716: Was still a child, and she and her brother Christopher were brought up in Bedford by their mother. She was educated at the Bedford Girls' Modern School (subsequently renamed Dame Alice Harpur School , and as of 2010, merged into the Bedford Girls' School ). She showed a precocious talent for needlework, claiming to have been able to knit, embroider, and sew by the age of six. At the age of seventeen, she left school and went to work at an electoral registration office at Bedford Town Hall. She then moved to London, where she worked briefly in

3192-559: Was the influential graphic designer Derek Birdsall FCSD. Design engineer Alex Moulton and architect Edward Cullinan were both awarded special commendations. The award is currently under review, the last recipient being Quentin Blake CBE FCSD RDI who was nominated by the Society. The Prize was re-instated by the Society in 2016. Prince Philip suggested and agreed on various changes to the Prize that build on its heritage in order to reflect today's design profession including opening

3249-462: Was used domestically, to overdye old, worn and faded clothes, and also by resellers of used or surplus military clothing. The first notable industrial use of the technique was made by Benetton , which garment dyed its Shetland wool knitwear. In the mid-1970s the Bologna clothing designer Massimo Osti began experimenting with the garment dyeing technique. His experimentation over the next decade, led to

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