150-482: Han Fu may refer to: Hanfu , historical Han Chinese clothing styles of China Hanfu movement , a social movement seeking to revitalize traditional Chinese fashion Han Fu (warlord) , a politician and warlord during the late Eastern Han dynasty Han Fu (fictional) , a fictional character in the historical novel Romance of the Three Kingdoms Fu (poetry) ,
300-482: A bixi . The jiaoling youren yi a style of upper garment, started to be worn during this period. In winter, padded jackets were worn. The ku or jingyi , which were knee-high trousers tied onto the calves but left the thighs exposed, were worn under the chang . During this period, this clothing style was unisex. Only rich people wore silk; poor people continued to wear loose shirts and ku made of hemp or ramie . An example of
450-444: A jeogori consists of gil , git , dongjeong , goreum and sleeves. Gil ( 길 ) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and git ( 깃 ) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong ( 동정 ) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum ( 고름 ) are fabric-strings that tie the jeogori . Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong ( 끝동 ),
600-445: A paofu robe , or a ru jacket worn as the upper garment with a qun skirt commonly worn as the lower garment. In addition to clothing, hanfu also includes several forms of accessories, such as headwear , footwear , belts , jewellery , yupei and handheld fans . Nowadays, the hanfu is gaining recognition as the traditional clothing of the Han ethnic group, and has experienced
750-695: A "layered effect". The robe continued to be worn in the Northern and Southern dynasties by both men and women, as seen in the lacquered screen found in the Northern Wei tomb of Sima Jinlong (ca. 483 A.D) ; however, there were some minor alterations to the robe, such as higher waistline and the sleeves are usually left open in a dramatic flare. Shoes worn during this period included lü (履; regular shoes for formal occasions), ji (屐; high, wooden clogs for informal wear), and shoes with tips which would curl upward. The shoes with tips curled upward would later become
900-736: A Shang dynasty attire can be seen on an anthropomorphic jade figurine excavated from the Tomb of Fu Hao in Anyang , which shows a person wearing a long narrow-sleeved yi with a wide band covering around waist, and a skirt underneath. This yichang attire appears to have been designed for the aristocratic class. Following the Shang dynasty, the Western Zhou dynasty established new system of etiquette and rites on clothing, placing new ceremonial, political and cultural significance on clothing. This tied fashion to
1050-633: A category of outer layers worn on top of the jeogori . There are many varieties other than the ones listed here. Po ( 포 ; 袍 ) is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat . There are two general types of po , the Korean type and the Chinese type. The Korean type is a common style from the Three Kingdoms of Korea period, and it is used in the modern day. The Chinese type consist of different types of po from mainland China. Durumagi
1200-415: A colorful goreum on the front of the neck, which influenced Yayoi culture. Parts of Goguryeo style had a fabric goreum loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the jeogori was usually wrapped across the front, the outside goreum
1350-587: A dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese water-sleeves , was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day Korean court dances and mu-ism rituals. In the North-South States Period (698–926 CE), Silla and Balhae adopted dallyeong , a circular-collar robe from the Tang dynasty of China. In Silla, the dallyeong was introduced by Muyeol of Silla in the second year of queen Jindeok of Silla . The dallyeong style from China
1500-509: A different colored cuff placed at the end of the sleeves. Contemporary jeogori are presently designed with various lengths. Goreum ( 고름 ) refers to the strings that fasten clothes together. Traditionally, there are many types of goreum. Fabric goreum were potentially used since Gojoseon . They were originally practical but often decorative. Silla had regulations against types of Dae (belts) and decorative goreum for each Golpoom . Southern parts of Korea, including Silla , had
1650-417: A form of literature commonly associated with Han dynasty See also [ edit ] All pages with titles beginning with Han Fu All pages with titles containing Han Fu Topics referred to by the same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with the title Han Fu . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change the link to point directly to
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#17328582600081800-474: A fur coat). During this period, elites generally wore paofu while peasants wore shanku consisting of short jackets and ku. Male commoners wore similar dress as Han dynasty male commoner did; archeological artefacts of this period depict male commoners wearing a full-sleeved, knee-length youren jacket; man's hairstyle is usually a topknot or a flat cap used for head covering. Female commoners dressed in similar fashion as their male counterpart but their jacket
1950-501: A growing fashion revival among young Han Chinese people in China and in the overseas Chinese diaspora. After the Han dynasty , hanfu developed into a variety of styles using fabrics that encompassed a number of complex textile production techniques, particularly with rapid advancements in sericulture . Hanfu has influenced the traditional clothing of many neighbouring cultures , including
2100-408: A hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials. In addition, special variants were made for officials and shamans. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period (57 BCE to 668 CE). The origin of ancient hanbok can be found in
2250-514: A loose rise was then introduced. Based on the archaeological artifacts dating from the Eastern Zhou dynasty, ordinary men, peasants and labourers, were wearing a long youren yi with narrow-sleeves, with a narrow silk band called sitao ( Chinese : 丝套 ) being knotted at the waist over the top. The youren yi was also worn with ku (in a style generally referred as shanku ) to allow greater ease of movement, but
2400-587: A prohibition of Xianbei clothing among many other prohibition on Xianbei culture (e.g. language, Xianbei surnames) as a form of sinicization policies and allowed the intermarriage between Xianbei and Chinese elites. The Wei shu even claimed that the Xianbei rulers were descendants of Yellow Emperor , just like the Han Chinese, despite being non-Chinese. The Wei shu also records that Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei promoted Chinese-style long robes and official crowns in
2550-509: A result of the relative isolation from each other that these groups experienced in the late-20th century. Despite this, the designs have somewhat converged again since the 1990s, especially due to increased cultural and economic exchange after the Chinese economic reform of 1978 onwards. Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear hanbok for formal or semi-formal occasions and for events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996,
2700-433: A role in differentiating ranks; for example, officials of the three upper levels and princes had to wear purple robes; officials above the fifth level had to wear red robes; officials of the sixth and seventh level had to wear green robes; and officials of the eighth and ninth levels had to wear cyan robes. Dragons-with-three-claws emblems also started to be depicted on the clothing of court officials above third ranks and on
2850-548: A roof-shaped top called jieze (介帻) is used by civil servants, usually greenish black in colour until summer seasons. Men and women also wore a lined, long robe called paofu . As Buddhism arrived in China during late period of Han dynasty, robes of Buddhist monks started to be produced. The attire worn in the Han dynasty laid the foundation for the clothing development in the succeeding dynasties. Ornaments and jewelries, such as rings, earrings, bracelets, necklace, and hairpins , and hair sticks were common worn in China by
3000-453: A series of regulations in all forms of cultural aspects, including clothing. The clothing style in Qin was therefore unitary. The Qin dynasty adopted a coloured-clothing system, which stipulated people who held higher position (officials of the third rank and above) wore green shenyi while common people wore normal white shenyi . The Han Chinese wore the shenyi as a formal dress and
3150-431: A silk unlined upper garment was worn; they wore "breast dresses" . This change in the ideal corporal shape of women's bodies has been attributed to a beloved consort of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang , called Yang Guifei , although archeological evidence shows that this ideal of the female body had emerged before Yang Guifei's ascension to power in the imperial court. Another form of popular fashion in women's attire during
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#17328582600083300-512: A strict hierarchical society that used clothing as a status meridian, and inevitably, the height of one's rank influenced the ornateness of a costume. Costumes would also be distinguished by their ceremonial usage. This became the antecedent for the complex system of clothing for all succeeding eras and dynasties. Importance were hence placed on items such as the guan and mianfu , as recorded in Rites of Zhou and Book of Rites . The guan
3450-425: A type of jacket), bixi ; while women's clothing style were usually ruqun (lined jacket with long skirt) and shanqun (衫裙; shirt with long skirt), men's clothing styles are robes, shanku , and xiku (褶裤; jacket with trousers). During this period, the black gauze hats with a flat top and an ear at either side appeared and were popular for both men and women. Although they had their own cultural identity,
3600-526: A variety of vests, jackets and coats on top of this ensemble. For women, there are Jangsam , Dansam , Wonsam , and more. For men, some examples are durumagi , dopo , Danryeong-ui , Joong-chimak , Sochang-ui , Daechang-ui , etc. The jeogori ( 저고리 ) is the basic upper garment of the hanbok, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body. There are various styles and types of jeogori varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape. The basic form of
3750-532: A very popular fashion in the Tang dynasty. Leather boots (靴, xue ), quekua (缺胯; an open-collared robe with tight sleeves; it cannot cover the undershirt), hood and cape ensemble were introduced by northern nomads in China. Tomb inventories found during this period include: fangyi (方衣; square garment), shan (衫; shirt), qun , hanshan (汗衫; sweatshirt), ru (襦; lined jacket), ku (裤), kun (裈), liangdang (两裆; vest), ao (袄; multi-layered lined jacket), xi (褶;
3900-443: Is a collective noun for various types of traditional Korean undergarments . They were worn as part of a hanbok before the import of Western-style underwear. Women usually wore several layers of undergarments, the more layers they had the richer they were. Undergarments were considered very important, thus it happened that the quality and material of the underwear was better than that of the visible outer layers. Deot-ot refers to
4050-635: Is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court. Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the Goryeo dynasty signed a peace treaty with the Mongol Empire in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life. A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to
4200-631: Is a type of po that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over jeogori and baji . It is also called jumagui , juchaui , or juui . Banbi ( 반비 ; 半臂 , lit. 'half sleeve') are a type Hanfu that originated from the Tang dynasty . Banbi refers to variety of short sleeved garments worn on top of inner garments, typically the Yuanling pao (Chinese: 圓領袍, 'round collar robe'). Numerous outer half-sleeved Banbi can be seen in ancient Tang-era paintings, murals, and statues. A sleeveless outer garment that
4350-400: Is a type of vest , while magoja is an outer jacket. The jokki was created around late Joseon dynasty , as Western culture began to affect Korea. Magoja ( 마고자 ) does not have a git , the band of fabric trimming the collar. The magoja for men sometimes has seop ( Korean : 섶 , overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's magoja , with both sides open at
4500-599: Is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the Three kingdoms period . It functions as modern trousers do and the term baji is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants. The baji-malgi is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of goreum . Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on. Sokgot ( 속곳 )
4650-552: Is also called sang ( 裳 ) or gun ( 裙 ) in hanja . The underskirt, or petticoat layer, is called sokchima . Chima-malgi is the waistband that trims the top of the chima . Chima were typically made from rectangular panels that were pleated or gathered into the chima-malgi (waistband). This waistband also had goreum strings for fastening the skirt around the body. From the Goguryeo to Joseon periods, chima have been striped, pleated, patchworked, and gored . Sokchima
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4800-460: Is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are danryunpo and bokdu . The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of Queen Jindeok ; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty. In 664 CE, Munmu of Silla decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of
4950-405: Is described as being a shorter version of zhijupao and it was worn with trousers. The jingyi continued to be worn in the early period of Han dynasty; other forms of trousers in this period were the dakouku and dashao ; both were developed from the hedangku loose rise introduced by King Wuling. Men in the Han dynasty also wore a kerchief or a guan on their heads. The guan
5100-458: Is recorded in a Qin dynasty's bamboo slip called Zhiyi ( 制衣 ; 'Making clothes'). The Terracotta army also show the differences between soldiers and officers' clothing wherein the elites wore long gown while all the commoners wore shorter jackets; they also wore headgears which ranged from simple head cloths to formal official caps. Cavalry riders were also depicted wearing long-sleeved, hip-length jackets and padded trousers. By
5250-531: Is the traditional clothing of the Korean people . The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans; North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn-ot ( 조선옷 , lit. ' Korean clothes ' ). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora . Koryo-saram —ethnic Koreans living in the lands of the former Soviet Union—also retained a hanbok tradition. Koreans have worn hanbok since antiquity. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to
5400-461: Is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like Manchurian buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest). Chima ( 치마 ) refers to "skirt", and
5550-535: Is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid-fourth to the mid-seventh centuries. While the mural paintings found in regions Ji'an typically shows the characteristics of Goguryeo people in terms of their customs and morals; those from the regions of Pyeongyang typically show the cultural influences of the Han dynasty as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years, including Chinese-style clothing. Early forms of hanbok can be seen in
5700-538: Is wearing a Han Chinese cross-collared, wide-sleeves attire which has the basic clothing design derived from the Han dynasty attire with some altered designs, such as a high waistline and wide standing collar. Xu Xianxiu is depicted wearing a Central Asian-style coat, Xianbei-style tunic, trousers, and boots. Some of the female servants depicted from the tomb murals of Xu Xianxiu are wearing what appears to be Sogdian dresses, which tend to be associated with dancing girls and low-status entertainers during this period, while
5850-402: Is worn as a ceremonial garment for dol , the celebration for a baby's first birthday. It is a children's colorful overcoat. It was worn mostly by young boys. The clothes is also called obangjang durumagi which means "an overcoat of five directions". It was worn over jeogori (a jacket) and jokki (a vest), while the wearer could put jeonbok (a long vest) over it. Kkachi durumagi
6000-451: Is worn in the opposite way in a style called zuoren , the clothing then becomes burial clothing and is therefore considered a taboo. Zuoren is also used by some minority ethnic groups in China. Many factors have contributed to the fashion of ancient China : beliefs, religions, wars, and the emperor's personal liking. Following the Qin dynasty , colours used in the sumptuary laws of
6150-468: The po (coat). The basic structure of hanbok developed to facilitate ease of movement; it integrated many motifs of Mu-ism . For thousands of years, the hanbok most people wore was pure white with no ornamentation. More ornate hanbok was typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings. The color white was seen as pure. In some periods, commoners ( seomin ) were even forbidden from wearing colorful hanbok regularly. However, on
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6300-491: The simui from Song dynasty , gwanbok (관복 or 단령) worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the Tang , Song , and Ming dynasties , and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of Tang and Ming dynasties. The cheolick , which originated in Mongolia, was described in 15th century Korea as gifts from
6450-564: The shenyi may have been partially due to the influence of Confucianism. The shenyi remained the dominant form of Hanfu from the Zhou dynasty to the Qin dynasty and further to the Han dynasty . Although the Qin dynasty was short-lived, it set up a series of systems that impacted the later generations greatly. Following the unification of the seven states, Emperor Qin Shihuang ordered his people, regardless of distance and class, to follow
6600-456: The durumagi was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese. Originally the durumagi was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population. In Muyong-chong murals of Goguryeo , there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing
6750-424: The magwae he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, magoja became popular in Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori" (literally "an outer jeogori ") or magwae . Traditionally, Kkachi durumagi (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as seolbim ( 설빔 ), new clothing and shoes worn on the Korean celebration of Korean New Year , while at present, it
6900-455: The quefeiguan . Emperor Yangdi later reformed the dress code in accordance of the ancient customs and news sets of imperial clothing were made. In 605 AD, it was decreed that officials over the fifth-ranks had to dress in crimson or purple, and in 611 AD, any officials who would follow the emperor in expedition together had to wear martial clothing. In 610 AD, the kuzhe attire worn by attending officials worn during imperial expeditions
7050-553: The Cao Wei (220–266 AD) and the Western Jin (266–316 AD) dynasties continued the cultural legacy of the Han dynasty. Clothing during the Three Kingdoms era and the clothing in Jin dynasty (266–420 AD) roughly had the same basic forms as the Han dynasty with special characteristics in their styles; the main clothing worn during those times are: ruqun (jacket and skirt), ku , and qiu (裘;
7200-471: The Eastern Han dynasty's ethical code; this kind of lifestyle influenced the development of women's clothing, which became more elaborate. Typical women attire during this period is the guiyi , a wide-sleeved paofu adorned with xian (髾; long swirling silk ribbons) and shao (襳; a type of triangular pieces of decorative embroidered-cloth) on the lower hem of the robe that hanged like banners and formed
7350-534: The Eastern Han , very few people wore shenyi . In the beginning of the Han dynasty, there was no restrictions on the clothing worn by common people. During the Western Han , the imperial edicts on the use of general clothing were not specific enough to be restrictive to the people, and were not enforced to a great degree. The clothing was simply differed accordingly to the seasons: blue or green for spring, red for summer, yellow for autumn and black for winter. It
7500-549: The Empire dresses of Napoleonic France ; however, the construction of the assemble differed from the ones worn in Western countries as Han Chinese women assemble consisted of a separate skirt and upper garment which show low décolletage. In this period, ordinary men did not wear skirts anymore. Many elements of the Tang dynasty clothing traditions was inherited from the Sui dynasty. During
7650-526: The Jiayuguan bricks painting . The dakouku remained popular. Dakouku that were bounded with strings at the knees were also called fuku , During the Western Jin , it was popular to use a felt cord to bind dakouku. It was worn with a knee-length tight cotton-padded robe as a set of attire called kuzhe . The kuzhe was a very popular style of clothing during the Northern and Southern dynasties and
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#17328582600087800-461: The Ming dynasty or as military uniforms. The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo hanbok had cultural influence on some clothing of Yuan dynasty worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing and in the Yuan imperial court ). Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of
7950-788: The Northern and Southern dynasties period. Liangdang ( 两裆 ; 兩襠 ) is a type of undershirt or waistcoat worn in Northern China during the Sixteen Kingdoms period; it is not to be confused with a type of doubled-faced cuirass armour , also named liangdang , which was worn during this period. During the Northern and Southern dynasties, the dressing style followed the style of the Three Kingdoms and Jin dynasty; robes, skirts, trousers, short jackets, sleeveless jackets were worn while fur coats, especially marten coats, were very rare. Young people liked to be dressed in trousers; however, it
8100-478: The Tang dynasty ; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the Tang dynasty . Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the jeogori . The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court. The clothing of
8250-536: The Three Kingdoms of Korea period (57 BCE to 668 CE) with roots in the Proto-Koreanic people of what is now northern Korea and Manchuria . The clothes are also depicted on tomb murals from the Goguryeo period (4th to 6th century CE), with the basic structure of the hanbok established since at latest this period. The ancient hanbok consisted of a jeogori (top), baji (trousers), chima (skirt), and
8400-492: The division of Korea , South Korea has preferred the term hanbok while North Korea has preferred the term Chosŏn-ot . This reflects the general trend of South Korea's preference for the term Han and North Korea's for Chosŏn . For women, traditional hanbok consist of the jeogori (top) and the chima (skirt). The ensemble is often known as ' chima jeogori ' . For men, hanbok consist of jeogori and loose-fitting baji (trousers). There are also
8550-461: The ladies-in-waiting of Xu Xianxiu's wife are wearing narrow-sleeved clothing which look more closely related to Xianbei-style or Central Asian-style clothing; yet this Xianbei style of attire is different from the depictions of Xianbei-style attire worn before 500 AD. The men (i.e. soldiers, grooms and male attendants) in the mural paintings of Xu Xianxiu tomb are depicted wearing high black or brown boots, belts, headgears, and clothing which follows
8700-499: The pinsefu (品色服), which was a colour grading clothing system to differentiate social ranking; this colour grading system for clothing then continued to be developed in the subsequent dynasties. Following the unification of China under the Sui dynasty , the Sui court abolished the Northern Zhou rituals and adopted the rituals, practices and ideas of the Han and Cao Wei dynasties , and
8850-496: The Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class. The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until
9000-597: The Chinese clothing worn in Yuan dynasty rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo. The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when Goryeo was under Mongol rule (1270 –1356). However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the Royal Palace Mandala , the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which
9150-516: The Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient hanbok, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised. It is also important to note that the Goguryeo tomb murals were primarily painted in two geographical regions: Ji'an ( 集安 ) and Pyongyang . The former
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#17328582600089300-522: The Han Chinese held symbolic meaning, based on the Taoist Five Elements Theory and the yin and yang theory; each dynasty favoured certain colours. Some elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural clothing, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road . In China, a systemic structure of clothing
9450-458: The Han Chinese with a recorded history of more than three millennia. Each succeeding dynasty produced their own distinctive dress codes, reflecting the socio-cultural environment of the times. Clothing made of silk was initially used for decorative and ceremonial purposes. The cultivation of silk, however, ushered the development of weaving , and by the time of the Han dynasty , brocade , damask , satin , and gauze had been developed. From
9600-501: The Han ethnicity of the later generations. During the Qin and Han dynasties, women wore skirts which was composed of four pieces cloth sewn together; a belt was often attached to the skirt, but the use of a separate belt was sometimes used by women. The male farmers, workers, businessmen and scholars, were all dressed in similar fashion during the Han dynasty; jackets , aprons, and dubikun or leggings were worn by male labourers. The jackets worn by men who engaged in physical work
9750-737: The Korean Hanbok , the Japanese kimono ( wafuku ), the Ryukyuan ryusou , and the Vietnamese áo giao lĩnh ( Vietnamese clothing ). Elements of hanfu design have also influenced Western fashion , especially through Chinoiserie fashion , due to the popularity of Chinoiserie since the 17th century in Europe and in the United States . Hanfu comprises all traditional clothing classifications of
9900-462: The Korean people. Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character Han in words that described Korean clothing, such as Han'gugŭibok ( 한국의복 ), Han'gugyebok ( 한국예복 ), and Taehannyŏbok ( 대한녀복 ). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article to describe the clothing of one of the righteous armies . Other words with similar meanings, such as uri-ot ( 우리옷 ) and chosŏn-ot ( 조선옷 ), were concurrently used. Since
10050-594: The Mashan site in Jiangling County , Hubei province . During the Warring States period, the shenyi was also developed. The qujupao , a type of shenyi which wrapped in a spiral effect and had fuller sleeves, was found to be worn by tomb figurines of the same period. Unearthed clothing from tombs show that the shenyi was worn by aristocrats in the state of Chu. The increased popularity of
10200-571: The Shuiyusi temple of Xiangtangshan Caves dated back to Northern dynasties, male worshippers are usually dressed in Xianbei style attire while women are dressed in Han Chinese style attire wearing skirts and high-waisted, wrap-style robes with wide sleeves. Moreover, after the fall of the Northern Wei, tensions started to rise between the Western Wei (which was more sinicized) and the Eastern Wei (which
10350-498: The South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism established Hanbok Day to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the hanbok. The term hanbok appeared relatively recently and is connected with the historical context in which it appeared. The term emerged in the late Joseon period, when the Empire of Japan and other western countries competed to place Korea under their own sphere of influence. The first known use of
10500-504: The Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, King Heundeog enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 CE. The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing. Balhae (698–926 CE) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae
10650-486: The Tang dynasty was the wearing of male clothing; it was fashionable for women to dress in male attire in public and in everyday live, especially during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao (742 -756 AD) periods; this fashion started among the members of the nobility and the court maids and gradually spread in the community. Men's attire during the Tang dynasty usually included robes which was worn with trousers, yuanlingpao , belt worn at
10800-450: The Tang dynasty, is a long silk scarf; however it is not used to cover the neck, sometimes it covers the shoulders and other times just hangs from the elbows. Regardless of social status, women in the Tang dynasty tend to be dressed in 3-parts clothing: the upper garment, the skirt, and the pibo (披帛). During the Tang dynasty, there were 4 kinds of waistline for women's skirts: natural waistline; low waistline; high waistline which reached
10950-508: The Tang dynasty, yellow-coloured robes and shirts were reserved for emperors; a tradition which was kept until the Qing dynasty . Moreover, the subjects of the Tang dynasty were forbidden from using ochre yellow colour as Emperor Gaozu used this colour for his informal clothing. The guan was replaced by futou . Scholars and officials wore the futou along with the panling lanshan . Clothing colours and fabric materials continued to play
11100-454: The Warring States period based on archaeological artifacts and sculpted bronze figures, and was worn in the shanqun or ruqun . An archeological example of a bronze figure wearing shanqun is the bronze armed warrior holding up chime bells from the Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng . A dark yellow-skirt, dating from the late Warring States period, was also found in the Chu Tomb (M1) at
11250-478: The Western Zhou dynasty, the dress code of the early Eastern Zhou dynasty was governed by strict rules which was used maintain social order and to distinguish social class. In addition to these class-oriented developments, the daily hanfu in this period became slightly looser while maintaining the basic form the Shang dynasty in the wearing of yichang . Broad and narrow sleeves both co-existed. The yi
11400-460: The Xianbei-style, i.e. V-neck, long tunic which is below knee-length, with the left lapel of the front covering the right; narrow-sleeved tunic which is worn on top of round-collared undergarment are also depicted. High-waisted skirt style, which likely came from Central Asia, was also introduced to Han Chinese during the Northern Wei dynasty. Of note, significant changes occurred to the form of
11550-565: The ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and Manchuria . Some hypothesize that the hanbok of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the Eurasian Steppes ( Scythian clothing ), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the Steppe Route . Reflecting its nomadic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient hanbok shared structural similarities with hobok type clothing of
11700-422: The art of Goguryeo tomb murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century CE. Trousers, long jackets and twii (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day, except for the length and the ways the jeogori opening was closed as over the years. The jeogori opening
11850-565: The beginning of its history, hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk and the art of sericulture , supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperor 's consort Leizu , who was also revered as the Goddess of sericulture. There is even a saying in the Book of Change , which says that: "Huang Di, Yao, and Shun (simply) wore their upper and lower garments [衣裳; yī cháng ] (as patterns to
12000-415: The body's natural curves through wrapping of upper garment lapels or binding with sashes at the waist. From ancient times, the ru upper garments of hanfu were typically worn wrapped over the front, in a style known as jiaoling youren ; the left side covering the right side and extend to the wearer's right waist. Initially, the style was used because of the habit of the right-handed wearer to wrap
12150-456: The bottom. A magoja can be made of silk and often adorned with danchu which are usually made from amber . In men's magoja , buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's magoja . It was introduced to Korea after Heungseon Daewongun , the father of King Gojong , returned from his political exile in Tianjin in 1887. Long sleeved Magoja were derived from
12300-399: The bust-line with ribbons also strongly influenced the Korean Hanbok . The women's clothing in the early Tang dynasty were quite similar to the clothing in the Sui dynasty; the upper garment was a short-sleeved short jacket with a low-cut; the lower garment was a tight-fitting skirt which was tied generally above the waist, but sometimes as high as the armpits, and a scarf was wrapped around
12450-423: The bust; and, high waistline above the bust, which could create different kind of women's silhouettes and reflected the ideal images of women of this period. This Tang dynasty-style ensemble would reappear several times even after the Tang dynasty, notably during the Ming dynasty . One of the Tang dynasty's ensembles which consisted of a very short, tight-sleeved jackets and an empire-waisted skirt tied just below
12600-399: The clothing code of the Han dynasty was restored. The Sui system was also based on the system of Western Jin and Northern Qi . The first emperor of Sui, Emperor Gaozu , would wear tongtianfu on grand occasions, gunyi (衮衣; dragon robe ) on suburban rites and visits to ancestral temple. He also set the colour red as the authoritative colour of the court imperial robes; this included
12750-455: The clothing of emperors and the ceremonial clothing of the princes. Crimson was the colour of martial clothing (i.e. chamber guards, martial guards, generals and duke generals) whereas servants would wear purple clothing, which consisted of hood and loose trousers. During Emperor Gaozu's time, the court official garment was similar to the clothing attire of the commoners, except that it was yellow in colour. Court censors during Emperor Gaozu wore
12900-439: The clothing of princes; these dragon robes were first documented in 694 AD during the reign of Empress Wu Zetian . Common people wore white and soldiers wore black. Common women's attire in the Tang dynasty included shan (衫; a long overcoat or long blouse), ru (襦; a short sweater), banbi , pibo (披帛), and qun (裙; a usually wide, loose skirt which was almost ankle-length). The pibo (披帛), also known as pei (帔) in
13050-589: The clothing of the emperor, feudal dukes, senior officials, soldiers, ancestor worshippers, brides, and mourners. The mianfu was the most distinguished type of formal dress, worn for worshipping and memorial ceremonies; it had a complex structure and there were various decorations which bore symbolic meaning; there were six ranked types of mianfu which were worn by emperors, princes and officials according to their titles. The emperors also wore bianfu (only second to mianfu ) when meeting with officials or if they had to work on official business. When
13200-530: The court to display the wearer's rank and his hierarchical position in the court and ritual functions. For example, both male and female patrons appeared in Xianbei-style attire during the 5th century AD, this can be seen particular at the Yungang caves temples near Datong and in the earliest carvings at Longmen , whereas in the first third of the 6th century, the patrons tend to appear in Chinese-style clothing in
13350-468: The demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty. People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm. The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect hanbok still used by the commoners, In the following Goryeo period, use of
13500-401: The development of the clothing. Moreover, due to the frequent wars occurring during the Warring States period, various etiquette were slowly revoked. Eastern Zhou dynasty dress code started to erode by the middle of Warring States period. Later, many regions decided not to follow the system of Zhou dynasty; the clothing during this period were differentiated among the seven major states (i.e.
13650-528: The driving dress of the northern minorities, trousers and xi (褶; a tight sleeved, close fitting long jacket, length reaching below crotch and above knees), while the rulers from northern minorities favoured the court dress of the Han Chinese. Near the areas of the Yellow River , the popularity of the ethnic minorities' hufu was high, almost equal to the Han Chinese clothing, in the Sixteen Kingdoms and
13800-457: The early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods. In Goryeo Buddhist paintings , the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the Song dynasty . The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references. On the other hand,
13950-431: The emperor were not at court, they wore the xuanduan . Xuanduan could also worn by princes during sacrificial occasions and by scholars who would go pay respect to their parents in the morning. The mianfu , bianfu , and xuanduan all consisted of four separate parts: a skirt underneath, a robe in the middle, a bixi on top, and a long cloth belt dadai ( Chinese : 大带 ). Similarly to
14100-403: The foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee. During this period, conical hat and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers, were worn as headgear. Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky. The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ochaebok . The precursor of what is now known as
14250-437: The garments which had been originally introduced by the Xianbei and other Turkic people who had settled in northern China after the fall of the Han dynasty ; for example, in the arts and literature which dates from the 5th century, their male clothing appeared to represent the ethnicity of its wearer, but in the 6th century, the attire lost its ethnic significance and did not denote its wearer as Xianbei or non-Chinese. Instead,
14400-454: The general public is called Mongolpung . King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the Yuan dynasty and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing. After the fall of the Yuan dynasty , only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared. As a result of the Mongol influence,
14550-401: The golden parade belts with hanging metal straps of Goguryeo and Silla . Due to the frequent wars in this era, mass migration occurred and resulted in several ethnics living together with communication exchange; as such, this period marked an important time of cultural integration and cultural blending, including the cultural exchange of clothing. Han Chinese living in the south favoured
14700-447: The hanbok also signaled status. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized
14850-452: The intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Han_Fu&oldid=1235026862 " Category : Disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Hanfu Hanfu ( simplified Chinese : 汉服 ; traditional Chinese : 漢服 ; pinyin : Hànfú , lit. " Han clothing"), are
15000-411: The kings of Goryeo. The Yuan dynasty princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents. As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court. The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent
15150-485: The lapel opening was typically zuoren. Xianbei people also wore Xianbei-style cloaks and xianbei hat (鮮卑帽; xianbei mao). Despite the sinicization policies attempted by the Northern Wei court, the nomadic style clothing continued to exist in China until Tang dynasty . For example, narrow and tight sleeves, which was well adapted to nomadic life-style, started to be favoured and was adopted by Han Chinese. In
15300-596: The majority of Northern Wei caves at Longmen; this change in clothing style has been suggested to be the result of sinicization policies regarding the adoption of Chinese-style clothing in the Northern Wei court. Earliest images of nomadic Xianbei-style dress in China tend to be depicted as a knee-length tunic with narrow sleeves, with a front opening, which can typically be collarless, round-collared, and sometimes be V-neck collared; men and women tend to wear that knee-length tunic over trousers for men and long, ground-length skirts for women. When their tunics had lapelled,
15450-704: The man's jeogori . In early Goguryeo, the jeogori jackets were hip-length Kaftan tunics belted at the waist, and the po overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula . Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts. Two types of hwa (shoes) were used, one covering only
15600-432: The material used. During the Sui dynasty, an imperial decree which regulated clothing colour stated that lower class could only wear muted blue or black clothing; upper class on the other hand were allowed to wear brighter colours, such as red and blue. Women wore ruqun consisting of short jackets and long skirts. The women's skirts were characterized with high waistline which created a silhouette which looked similar to
15750-521: The nomadic cultures in East Asia , designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement, such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket. However, although the ancient hanbok reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from
15900-423: The nomadic dress had turned into a type of male ordinary dress in the Sui and early Tang dynasties regardless of ethnicity. On the other hand, the Xianbei women gradually abandoned their ethnic Xianbei clothing and adopted Han Chinese-style and Central Asian-style clothing to the point that by the Sui dynasty, women in China were no longer wearing steppe clothing. The Sui and the Tang dynasties developed
16050-414: The officials. The official seal was then placed in a leather pouch, was put on its wearer's waist and the ribbon, which came in different colours, size, and texture to indicate ranking, would hang outside the pouch. Throughout the years, Han dynasty women commonly also wore ruqun of various colours. The combination of upper and lower garments in women's wardrobe eventually became the clothing model of
16200-559: The other hand, during the Joseon dynasty and the 1910–1945 Japanese occupation of Korea , there was also an attempt to ban white clothes and to encourage non-bleached dyed clothes, which ultimately failed. Modern hanbok are typically patterned after the hanbok worn in the Joseon period, especially those worn by the nobility and royalty. There is some regional variation in hanbok design between South Korea, North Korea, and Koreans in China as
16350-470: The people), and good order was secured all under heaven". Hanfu had changed and evolved with the fashion of the days since its commonly assumed beginnings in the Shang dynasty . Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simpler in cut than later examples. Later garments incorporate multiple pieces with men commonly wearing pants and women commonly wearing skirts. Clothing for women usually accentuates
16500-466: The right side first. Later, the people of the Central Chinese Plain discouraged left-handedness, considering it unnatural, barbarian, uncivilized, and unfortunate. The youren collar follows the yin and yang theory , wherein the left lapel represents the yang (which symbolizes life) suppresses the yin (which symbolizes death); therefore, youren is the clothing of the living while if it
16650-452: The rigid Confucian system; this showed up in how they would dress themselves. The style of men's paofu gradually changed into a more simple and casual style, while the style of women's paofu increased in complexity. During the Three Kingdoms and Jin period, especially during the Eastern Jin period (317 – 420 AD), aristocratic women sought for a carefree life style after the collapse of
16800-494: The rites and culture of its people, which became the basis for the Li (禮) orthodoxy of Confucianism that dominated East Asian culture for 2000 years. In reference to this, Ruist writings such as Kong Yingda 's "True Meaning of Chunqiu - Zuo zhuan " suggest that the term huaxia (華夏) referred to both the ceremonial etiquettes of the central states and the clothing that those states' denizens wore. Principle of this practice
16950-417: The robe became loose on the wearer's body so a wide band functioned as belt was in use to organise the fitting, and the sleeves of the robe changed to "wide-open" instead of cinched at the wrist; this style is referred as bao yi bo dai , and usually worn with inner shirt and trousers. In some instances, the upper part of the robe was loose and open with no inner garment worn; men wearing this style of robe
17100-483: The sacrificial garments which were used to differentiate social ranks in the earlier times. In addition, regulations on the ornaments used by emperors, councillors, dukes, princes, ministers and officials were specified. There were distinct styles of clothing based on social ranks, these regulations were accompanied with Confucian rituals. Different kind of headgear, weaving and fabric material, as well as ribbons attached to officials seals, were also used to distinguish
17250-592: The second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western Empire silhouette . King Muyeol of Silla personally travelled to the Tang dynasty to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), danryunpo (團領袍; round collar gown), banbi , baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾). Based on archaeological findings, it
17400-434: The shoulders. The banbi was commonly worn on top of a plain top and was worn together with high-waisted, striped or one-colour A-line skirt in the seventh century. Red coloured skirts were very popular during the Tang dynasty. In the middle of the Tang dynasty, women who had a plump appearance were favoured; thus, the clothing became looser, the sleeves became longer and wider, the upper garment became strapless, and
17550-539: The states of Chu , Han , Qin , Wei , Yan , Qi and Zhao ). Moreover, the year 307 B.C. also marked an important year with the first reform of the military uniform implemented by King Wuling of Zhao . This reform, commonly referred to as Hufuqishe , required all Zhao soldiers to wear the Hufu -style uniforms of the Donghu , Linhu and Loufan people in battle to facilitate fighting capability. The hedangku with
17700-453: The status of adulthood in men. One form of kerchief was ze (帻); it was a headband that keep the head warm during cold weather. Over time the ze was attached with a head covering scarf, or jin (巾), and developed into a full cap called jinze (巾帻). The jinze was adopted into widespread use and worn commonly by military personnel and commoners. Military jinze was red in color, also called chize (赤帻). Another variant with
17850-485: The term is in an 1881 document from the late Joseon period entitled Chŏngch'iilgi ( 《정치일기》 ). There, hanbok is used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese- and Western-style clothing. Hanbok was again used in an 1895 document to distinguish between Korean and Japanese clothing. These two usages predate the Korean Empire's popularization of the use of the hanja character Han ( Hanja : 韓 ) to describe
18000-419: The time of Han dynasty , the shenyi remained popular and developed further into two types: qujupao and zhijupao . The robes appeared to be similar, regardless of gender, in cut and construction: a wrap closure, held by a belt or a sash, with large sleeves gathered in a narrower cuff; however, the fabric, colours and ornaments of the robes were different between gender. However, later during
18150-414: The time of Han dynasty. The original hair sticks ji evolved to zanzi with more decorations. And a new type of women hair ornament invented during Han dynasty was the buyao , which was zanzi added with dangling decorations that would sway when the wearer walk and was unique to the Han Chinese women. The paofu worn in the Han dynasty continued to evolve. During this period, 220–589 AD,
18300-480: The traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of hanfu , such as the ruqun (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the aoqun (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt), the beizi and the shenyi , and the shanku (an upper-body garment with ku trousers ). Traditionally, hanfu consists of
18450-525: The upper classes. The choice of hanbok can also signal social position. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions. The material of
18600-591: The waist, futou , and dark leather boots. The Tang dynasty inherited all the forms of belts which were worn in the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties and adopted them in the official costumes of the military and civil officials. In some instances, however, Han Chinese-style robes continued to be depicted in art showing court officials. In the Tang dynasty, the yuanlingpao was worn by both men and women. Hanbok The hanbok ( Korean : 한복 ; Hanja : 韓服 ; lit. Korean dress)
18750-719: The waist, holding hu , and stuck ink brush between head and ears. There was an increase in the popularity of robes with large sleeves with cuff laces among men. In ordinary times, men wore ruku whereas the women wore ruqun . Merchants , regardless of their wealth, were never allowed to wear clothing made of silk . The commoners and labourers wore jiaolingpao with narrow sleeves, trousers , and skirts; they braided their hairs or simply wore skull caps and kerchiefs. The making of different kinds of qun ( 裙 ; 'skirt'; called xie ( 衺 ) in Qin dynasty), shangru ( 上襦 ; 'jacket'), daru ( 大襦 ; 'outwear') and ku -trousers
18900-479: The wrist. The court dress was still xuanyi (玄衣; dark cloth); however, there were regulations in terms of fabric materials used. In the Northern dynasties (386 - 581 AD), ordinary women always wore short jackets and coats. The ethnic Xianbei founded the Northern Wei dynasty in 398 A.D. and continued to wear their traditional, tribal nomadic clothing to denote themselves as members of the ruling elite until c. 494 A.D. when Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei decreed
19050-695: Was a Hanfu created by assimilating non-Han Chinese cultures. New forms of belts with buckles, dubbed as "Jin style", were also designed during the Western Jin. The "Jin style" belts were later exported to several foreign ethnicities (including the Murong Xianbei , the Kingdom of Buyeo , the early Türks and the Eurasian Avars ); these belts was later imitated by the Murong Xianbei and Buyeo before evolving into
19200-516: Was also the most striking feature in China in the sixth-century AD. From the mural paintings found in the Tomb of Xu Xianxiu of the Northern Qi , various types of attire are depicted which reflect the internationalism and multiculturalism of the Northern Qi; many of the attire styles are derived from Central Asia or nomadic designs. The wife of Xu Xianxiu is depicted with a flying-bird bun ; she
19350-427: Was also worn along with headgear such as bokgeon (a peaked cloth hat), hogeon (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or gulle (decorative headgear) for young girls. The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after CE 7, was influenced by both foreign and indigenous styles, including significant influences from various Chinese dynasties , resulting in some styles of clothing, such as
19500-490: Was closed with a sash which was tied around the waist; jade decorations were sometimes hung from the sash. The length of the skirts and ku could vary from knee-length to ground-length. Common people in the Zhou dynasty, including the minority groups in Southwest China, wore hemp -based clothing. The Zhou dynasty also formalized women's wearing of ji with a coming-of-age ceremony called Ji Li , which
19650-429: Was derived from Mongolian clothing worn during the Goryeo period. Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. Kwaeja is interchangeable with baeja, but kwaeja often refers to men's clothing. The dapho ( 도포 ; 道袍 ) is a short-sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform. Jokki ( 조끼 )
19800-460: Was featured in the painting Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove . The bao yi bo dai style appears to have been a northern Han Chinese style, and the popularity of the robe was a result of the widespread Taoism . In the Jin dynasty , in particular, while many clothing of the Han dynasty were maintained, scholars and adherents of Neo-Taoism rejected the traditional court dress and retreated from
19950-401: Was first developed during the Shang dynasty , where colours, designs, and rules governing use was implemented across the social strata. Only primary colours (i.e. red, blue, and yellow) and green were used due to the degree of technology at the time. The rudiments of hanfu was developed in this period; the combination of upper and lower garments, called yichang , was usually worn with
20100-426: Was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous Mohe people elements. Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition. However, after Mun of Balhae , Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the putou and round collared gown for its official attire. Male everyday clothing
20250-444: Was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a kaftan or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream. Since the sixth century CE, the closing of the jeogori at the right became a standard practice. The length of the female jeogori also varied. For example, women's jeogori seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century CE are depicted shorter in length than
20400-510: Was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added, later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima . By the mid-20th century, some outer chima also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the jeogori . Baji ( 바지 ) refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design
20550-492: Was less sinicized and resented the sinicized court of Northern Wei). Due to the shift in politics, Han and non-Han Chinese ethnic tensions arose between the successor states of Northern Wei; and Xianbei-style clothing reappeared; however, their clothing had minor changes. At the end of the Northern and Southern dynasties, foreign immigrants started to settle in China; most of those foreign immigrants were traders and buddhists missionaries from Central Asia . Cultural diversity
20700-567: Was made of plain cloth instead of silk cloth. The shanku of this period also influenced the Hufu . Aristocratic figures did not wear those kind of clothing however, they were wearing wider-sleeved long paofu which was belted at the waist; one example can be seen from the wooden figures from a Xingyang Warring States period tomb. The youren closures could be found in different shapes, such as jiaoling youren and quju youren . Skirts also appear to have been worn during
20850-661: Was not well-perceived for women to wear trousers; women wore skirts. Based on tomb figures dating from the Southern dynasties, it is known that the robes worn during those period continued the long, wide-sleeves, youren opening tradition. The robes continued to be fastened with a girdle and was worn over a straight-neck undergarment. Tomb figures depicted as servants in this period are also shown wearing skirts, aprons, trousers and upper garments with vertical opening or youren opening . Servants wore narrow-sleeved upper garment whereas attendants had wider sleeves which could be knotted above
21000-539: Was performed after a girl was engaged and the wearing of ji showed a girl was already promised to a marriage. Men could also wear ji alone, however more commonly men wore ji with the guan to fix the headwear. During the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period , numerous schools of thought emerged in China, including Confucianism ; those different schools of thoughts naturally influenced
21150-465: Was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in Joseon dynasty , the goreum slowly moved to the front of the jeogori . In the 20th century, the goreum became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the jeogori and was coined the Ot-goreum. Danchu (buttons) can also be used as an alternative to Goreum. There are many types of danchu. One example
21300-425: Was replaced by the rongyi (戎衣) attire. Emperor Yangdi also wore several kind of imperial headgears, such as wubian , baishamao (白紗帽; white gauze cap ), and the wushamao . Civil officials wore jinxianguan , and the wushamao was popular and was worn from court officials to commoners. The quefeiguan was also replaced by the xiezhiguan , which could also be used to denote the censor's rank based on
21450-425: Was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts. Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ungyeon (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after
21600-465: Was sometimes depicted longer; they also wore long skirt or trousers. Attendants (not to be confused with servants) on the other hand are depicted wearing two layers of garment and wore a long skirt reaching the ground with long flowing sleeved jacket. The jacket is sometimes closed with a belt or a fastener. White colour was the colour worn by commoner people during the Three Kingdoms and Jin period. Commoner-style clothing from this period can be seen on
21750-523: Was the Emperor Ming of Han formalized the dress code of Han dynasty in 59 AD, during the Eastern Han, restoring the ceremonial use of mianfu system from the prior junxuan of the Qin dynasty. According to the new dress code, the emperor had to be dressed in a black-coloured upper garment and in an ocher yellow-coloured lower garment. The Shangshu – Yiji 《尚书益稷》records the 12 ornaments used on
21900-464: Was the standardization of a garment style called Shangyi Xiachang (上衣下裳, " upper top , and lower garnment ", meaning separating the upper and lower garments into two items). Though the fashion gradually evolved and was replaced by styles such as shenyi , the Shangyi Xiachang still maintained as the basis for formal and ceremonial wear such as the mianfu and chaofu . This created
22050-463: Was used as gwanbok , a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and dragon robe , a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon. The Silla Kingdom unified the Three Kingdoms in 668 CE. The Unified Silla (668-935 CE) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from Tang China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of Luoyang which included Chinese dress styles,
22200-425: Was used as a symbol of higher status and could only be worn by people of distinguished background. The emperors wore tongtianguan (通天冠) when meeting with their imperial subjects, yuanyouguan (遠遊冠) were worn by dukes and princes; jinxianguan (進賢冠) was worn by civil officials while military officials wore wuguan (武冠). The kerchief was a piece of clothing that wrapped around the head, and it symbolized
22350-537: Was used to distinguish social ranks; the use of guan was one of the distinctive features of the Hanfu system, and men could only wear it after the Adulthood ceremony known as Guan Li . Other markers of status included the fabric materials, the shape, size, colour of the clothing, the decorative pattern, the length of a skirt, the wideness of a sleeve, and the degree of ornamentation. There were strict regulations on
22500-431: Was worn together with a guan and shoes. The Qin dynasty also abolished Zhou dynasty's mianfu ranking system, replaced with a uniform type of black shenyi called junxuan (袀玄) and tongtianguan instead of the mianguan for the emperor, with the officials following suit and wearing the same black robes. In court, the officials wore hats, loose robes with carving knives hanging from
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