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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

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The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II ( Italian: [ɡalleˈriːa vitˈtɔːrjo emanuˈɛːle seˈkondo] ; Lombard : Galeria Vittori Emanuel ) is Italy's oldest active shopping gallery and a major landmark of Milan . Housed within a four-story double arcade in the centre of town, the Galleria is named after Victor Emmanuel II , the first king of the Kingdom of Italy . It was designed in 1861 and built by architect Giuseppe Mengoni between 1865 and 1877.

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49-662: The structure consists of two glass-vaulted arcades intersecting in an octagon covering the street connecting Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala . The street is covered by an arching glass and cast iron roof, a popular design for 19th-century arcades, such as the Burlington Arcade in London , which was the prototype for larger glazed shopping arcades , beginning with the Saint-Hubert Gallery in Brussels (opened in 1847),

98-630: A Petrie polygon projection plane of the tesseract . The list (sequence A006245 in the OEIS ) defines the number of solutions as eight, by the eight orientations of this one dissection. These squares and rhombs are used in the Ammann–Beenker tilings . A skew octagon is a skew polygon with eight vertices and edges but not existing on the same plane. The interior of such an octagon is not generally defined. A skew zig-zag octagon has vertices alternating between two parallel planes. A regular skew octagon

147-398: A power of two : The regular octagon can be constructed with meccano bars. Twelve bars of size 4, three bars of size 5 and two bars of size 6 are required. Each side of a regular octagon subtends half a right angle at the centre of the circle which connects its vertices. Its area can thus be computed as the sum of eight isosceles triangles, leading to the result: for an octagon of side

196-542: A . The coordinates for the vertices of a regular octagon centered at the origin and with side length 2 are: Coxeter states that every zonogon (a 2 m -gon whose opposite sides are parallel and of equal length) can be dissected into m ( m -1)/2 parallelograms. In particular this is true for regular polygons with evenly many sides, in which case the parallelograms are all rhombi. For the regular octagon , m =4, and it can be divided into 6 rhombs, with one example shown below. This decomposition can be seen as 6 of 24 faces in

245-645: A hotel, the Town House Galleria . The Galleria is famous for being home to some of the oldest shops and restaurants in Milan, such as Biffi Caffè (founded in 1867 by Paolo Biffi, pastry chef to the monarch), the Savini restaurant, Borsalino hat-shop (1883) and the Art Nouveau classic Camparino. Octagon In geometry , an octagon (from Ancient Greek ὀκτάγωνον ( oktágōnon )  'eight angles')

294-613: A number of octagonal churches in Norway . The central space in the Aachen Cathedral , the Carolingian Palatine Chapel , has a regular octagonal floorplan. Uses of octagons in churches also include lesser design elements, such as the octagonal apse of Nidaros Cathedral . Architects such as John Andrews have used octagonal floor layouts in buildings for functionally separating office areas from building services, such as in

343-738: A portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth . Clients selected one model, specified colours and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry , which was also developing during this period. Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs , Patou , Paul Poiret , Madeleine Vionnet , Mariano Fortuny , Jeanne Lanvin , Chanel , Mainbocher , Schiaparelli , Cristóbal Balenciaga , and Christian Dior . Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under

392-414: A reference octagon has its eight vertices at the midpoints of the sides of the reference octagon. If squares are constructed all internally or all externally on the sides of the midpoint octagon, then the midpoints of the segments connecting the centers of opposite squares themselves form the vertices of a square. A regular octagon is a closed figure with sides of the same length and internal angles of

441-404: A regular octagon of side length a is given by In terms of the circumradius R , the area is In terms of the apothem r (see also inscribed figure ), the area is These last two coefficients bracket the value of pi , the area of the unit circle . The area can also be expressed as where S is the span of the octagon, or the second-shortest diagonal; and a is the length of one of

490-447: A side a , the span S is The span, then, is equal to the silver ratio times the side, a. The area is then as above: Expressed in terms of the span, the area is Another simple formula for the area is More often the span S is known, and the length of the sides, a , is to be determined, as when cutting a square piece of material into a regular octagon. From the above, The two end lengths e on each side (the leg lengths of

539-484: A truncated square. The sum of all the internal angles of any octagon is 1080°. As with all polygons, the external angles total 360°. If squares are constructed all internally or all externally on the sides of an octagon, then the midpoints of the segments connecting the centers of opposite squares form a quadrilateral that is both equidiagonal and orthodiagonal (that is, whose diagonals are equal in length and at right angles to each other). The midpoint octagon of

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588-491: Is r16 and no symmetry is labeled a1 . The most common high symmetry octagons are p8 , an isogonal octagon constructed by four mirrors can alternate long and short edges, and d8 , an isotoxal octagon constructed with equal edge lengths, but vertices alternating two different internal angles. These two forms are duals of each other and have half the symmetry order of the regular octagon. Each subgroup symmetry allows one or more degrees of freedom for irregular forms. Only

637-667: Is vertex-transitive with equal edge lengths. In three dimensions it is a zig-zag skew octagon and can be seen in the vertices and side edges of a square antiprism with the same D 4d , [2 ,8] symmetry, order 16. The regular skew octagon is the Petrie polygon for these higher-dimensional regular and uniform polytopes , shown in these skew orthogonal projections of in A 7 , B 4 , and D 5 Coxeter planes . The regular octagon has Dih 8 symmetry, order 16. There are three dihedral subgroups: Dih 4 , Dih 2 , and Dih 1 , and four cyclic subgroups : Z 8 , Z 4 , Z 2 , and Z 1 ,

686-404: Is an eight-sided polygon or 8-gon. A regular octagon has Schläfli symbol {8} and can also be constructed as a quasiregular truncated square , t{4}, which alternates two types of edges. A truncated octagon, t{8} is a hexadecagon , {16}. A 3D analog of the octagon can be the rhombicuboctahedron with the triangular faces on it like the replaced edges, if one considers the octagon to be

735-399: Is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients. A couturier may make what is known as haute couture . Such a person usually hires patternmakers and machinists for garment production, and is either employed by exclusive boutiques or is self-employed. The couturier Charles Frederick Worth is widely considered

784-743: Is defined as "the regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses". Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture . The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne is an association of Parisian couturiers founded in 1868 as an outgrowth of medieval guilds that regulate its members in regard to counterfeiting of styles, dates of openings for collections, number of models presented, relations with press, questions of law and taxes, and promotional activities. Formation of

833-467: Is distinguished by the form of its use, such as it being used as currency. Silk fabric is composed of fibers that are produced by the silkworm mainly found in China. There are various kinds of silks, used by designers in the textile world, such as dupioni , China, brocade , Jacquard, and satin silk. These various kinds of silks are often used to produce certain styles of clothing. For example, Chiffon silk

882-574: Is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design . The term haute couture generally refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves . Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by

931-474: Is used to create draping due to the fact that this silk is a thinner silk than others; it allows for easier movement and flow of the fabric, thus creating an easier process for draping. Wool is the textile fiber obtained from animals such as sheep , camels , camelids , goats , or other hairy mammals . Wool was first discovered and used mainly for protection against cold weather. Not all types are acceptable or considered "fine" wool. For instance, fine wool

980-566: The Intelsat Headquarters of Washington or Callam Offices in Canberra. The octagon , as a truncated square , is first in a sequence of truncated hypercubes : As an expanded square, it is also first in a sequence of expanded hypercubes: Haute couture Haute couture ( / ˌ oʊ t k uː ˈ tj ʊər / ; French pronunciation: [ot kutyʁ] ; French for 'high sewing ', 'high dressmaking')

1029-678: The Passazh in St Petersburg (opened in 1848), the Galleria Umberto I in Naples (opened in 1890), and the Budapest Galleria. The central octagonal space is topped with a glass dome . The Milanese Galleria was larger in scale than its predecessors and was an important step in the evolution of the modern glazed and enclosed shopping mall , of which it was the direct progenitor. It has inspired

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1078-733: The g8 subgroup has no degrees of freedom but can be seen as directed edges . The octagonal shape is used as a design element in architecture. The Dome of the Rock has a characteristic octagonal plan. The Tower of the Winds in Athens is another example of an octagonal structure. The octagonal plan has also been in church architecture such as St. George's Cathedral, Addis Ababa , Basilica of San Vitale (in Ravenna, Italia), Castel del Monte (Apulia, Italia), Florence Baptistery , Zum Friedefürsten Church (Germany) and

1127-401: The circumradius as The regular octagon, in terms of the side length a , has three different types of diagonals : The formula for each of them follows from the basic principles of geometry. Here are the formulas for their length: A regular octagon at a given circumcircle may be constructed as follows: A regular octagon can be constructed using a straightedge and a compass , as 8 = 2 ,

1176-516: The fabric or medium being used by designers to create an article of clothing. History of silk originated in Neolithic China within the Yangshao culture (4th millennium BC), where the " Silk worm " was discovered. The Asian elite began using silk in high fashion. As time went on, silk began to be traded leading to the creation of the "Silk Road", which was a boost to China's economy. The value of silk

1225-458: The facades, statues, and mosaics underwent detailed cleaning and repair, using a giant moving crane scaffolding system. The Galleria is often nicknamed il salotto di Milano (Milan's drawing room), due to its numerous shops and importance as a common Milanese meeting and dining place. As of 2013, the arcade principally contains luxury retailers selling haute couture , jewelry , books and paintings, as well as restaurants, cafés , bars, and

1274-523: The father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire , England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry. Revolutionising how dressmaking had been previously perceived, Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment: a fashion designer. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing

1323-528: The feel of haute couture to more wardrobes. Fashion houses still create custom clothing for publicity, for example providing items to celebrity events such as the Met Gala . Recent guest members have included the fashion houses of Cathy Pill , Gerald Watelet  [ fr ] , Nicolas Le Cauchois  [ fr ] and Ma Ke (Wuyong). In the 2008/2009 Fall/Winter Haute Couture week, Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member. Textiles refer to

1372-404: The lacemakers, ribbonmakers, fashion merchants, embroiderers, pin and needle peddlers, etc. Seamstresses did not operate public shops, unlike tailors, but instead relied on word of mouth and connections to procure high-end clientele. 18th century France witnessed a dramatic rise in clothing consumption, and scholars have documented a "clothing revolution" that occurred between 1700 and 1789. This

1421-402: The last implying no symmetry. On the regular octagon, there are eleven distinct symmetries. John Conway labels full symmetry as r16 . The dihedral symmetries are divided depending on whether they pass through vertices ( d for diagonal) or edges ( p for perpendiculars) Cyclic symmetries in the middle column are labeled as g for their central gyration orders. Full symmetry of the regular form

1470-472: The latest Parisian fashion to serve as models. As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations. A couturier ( French: [ku.ty.ʁje] )

1519-443: The leadership of modern designers. In the 1960s, a group of young protégés who had trained under more senior and established fashion designers including Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent , Pierre Cardin , André Courrèges , Ted Lapidus , and Emanuel Ungaro . Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori

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1568-402: The main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes , and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. It is their ready-to-wear collections that are available to a wider audience, adding a splash of glamour and

1617-511: The mosaic: a hole developed on the place of the bull's genitals. The Galleria connects two of Milan's most famous landmarks: The Duomo and the Teatro Alla Scala , but the Galleria is a landmark in its own right. The Milan gallery and its roof have been acknowledged as an important reference on 19th-century iron-and-glass architecture by Pevsner and Hitchcock. As one can still observe today,

1666-574: The most experienced and capable of sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Couture translates literally from French as "dressmaking", sewing , or needlework and is also used as a common abbreviation of haute couture and can often refer to the same thing in spirit. In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Paris Chamber of Commerce based in Paris . The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode

1715-532: The organisation was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth . An affiliated school was organized in 1930 called L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The school helps bring new designers to help the "couture" houses that are still present today. Since 1975, this organization has worked within the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode . In response to the Nazi occupation of Paris , more rigorous criteria for

1764-530: The rights to make clothing for women and children, while male tailors retained the right to make clothing for men and boys over the age of 8. Within this empire, the couturières' work ranged from simple mending, to modes (fashions). They performed darning and alterations, and also made fine dresses of luxurious fabric for members of the royal family and aristocracy. Seamstresses were only one part of this complex network and process, and included domestic manufacture, imported products, and work alongside guilds such as

1813-506: The roof consists of four barrel vaults (approximately 14.5 m in width and 8.5 m in height) that are crowned with a huge dome (around 37.5 m as internal diameter and 17.10 m in height). Jorini pointed out the accomplishments of this dome with special regard to the large dimensions. Each of the roof parts is topped with a lantern. According to Geist, the Milan gallery and the roof were unprecedented in dimensions by previously built shopping arcades. Another difference with already existing passages,

1862-399: The same components were used for both load bearing and glazing purposes. In addition, the roof at Milan was equipped with invisible reinforcements in the supporting walls. This complicated roof is discussed as the unity of four systems that were skillfully combined through characteristic construction details. This construction technology was creative for avoiding visible tie-rods in the spans of

1911-551: The same size. It has eight lines of reflective symmetry and rotational symmetry of order 8. A regular octagon is represented by the Schläfli symbol {8}. The internal angle at each vertex of a regular octagon is 135 ° ( 3 π 4 {\displaystyle \scriptstyle {\frac {3\pi }{4}}} radians ). The central angle is 45° ( π 4 {\displaystyle \scriptstyle {\frac {\pi }{4}}} radians). The area of

1960-403: The sides, or bases. This is easily proven if one takes an octagon, draws a square around the outside (making sure that four of the eight sides overlap with the four sides of the square) and then takes the corner triangles (these are 45–45–90 triangles ) and places them with right angles pointed inward, forming a square. The edges of this square are each the length of the base. Given the length of

2009-517: The term haute couture were established in 1945. To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture must follow specific rules: The term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion, custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in the fashion capitals of London , New York City , Paris , and Milan . In either case,

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2058-634: The term can refer to the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions or to the fashions created. The term haute couture has also taken on further popular meanings referring to non-dressmaking activities, such as production of fine art and music. Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th century. Industry and consumption were legally protected through guild statutes that required strict adherence to quality, quantity, etc. Women dressmakers, known as couturières , attained guild privileges in 1675. Their guild statutes made it so these women acquired

2107-430: The triangles (green in the image) truncated from the square), as well as being e = a / 2 , {\displaystyle e=a/{\sqrt {2}},} may be calculated as The circumradius of the regular octagon in terms of the side length a is and the inradius is (that is one-half the silver ratio times the side, a , or one-half the span, S ) The inradius can be calculated from

2156-497: The use of the term galleria for many other shopping arcades and malls. On the ground of the central octagonal, there are four mosaics portraying the coat of arms of the three capitals of the Kingdom of Italy ( Turin , Florence and Rome ) plus Milan's. Tradition says that if a person spins around three times with a heel on the testicles of the bull from Turin coat of arms this will bring good luck. This practice causes damage to

2205-525: The vaults and the dome, for a special effect of the glass plates and for the glazing bars. The historical roof was heavily damaged during the aerial bombings of World War II . Before that the roof had undergone multiple maintenance interventions. Serious problems in the roof were reported in the 1970s, and some of them were solved in the 1980s. The roof that we see today has gone through different historic modifications and represents complicated conservation issues. In 2015, in preparation for Expo Milano 2015 ,

2254-514: The whole Gallery was the result of international collaboration. This especially concerned the roof: the ironwork was produced, transported and installed by the French Atelier Henry Joret. The glass plates were made of flat ribbed glass by Saint-Gobain . The construction technology of the roof employs primary wrought-iron arches in order to support the glazing. By contrast, arcades that were built earlier were smaller and had simpler roofs:

2303-411: Was also successful in establishing her own line. Lacroix is one of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler . Due to the high expenses of producing haute couture collections, Lacroix and Mugler have since ceased their haute couture activities. For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer

2352-463: Was characterised by the increased size and value of wardrobes across the country, even among the middling and working classes. The fashion industry sprang to life to meet increasing demand. Rose Bertin , the French fashion designer to Queen Marie Antoinette , can be credited for bringing fashion and haute couture to French culture. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered dresses in

2401-405: Was the monumental character of the roof at Milan. Jodice, for example, appreciated the monumental spatial effect of the dome. In comparison to earlier emblematic arcades, such as Galerie d'Orléans (1828–1829) and Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert (1845–1847), the Milan arcade was also special because of the large spans of the vaults and the ethereal effect of the entire glass canopy. The construction of

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