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Chitterlings

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Chitterlings ( / ˈ tʃ ɪ t ( ər ) l ɪ ŋ z / ), sometimes spelled chitlins or chittlins , are the large intestines of domestic animals. They usually come from pigs, but are also made from cow, lamb, goose and goat.

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67-515: They may be filled with a forcemeat to make sausage . Chitterling is first documented in Middle English in the form cheterling , c.  1400 . Various other spellings and dialect forms were used. The primary form and derivation are uncertain. A 1743 English cookery book The Lady's Companion: or, An Infallible Guide to the Fair Sex contained a recipe for "Calf's Chitterlings" which

134-472: A guisado in tacos. They are cleaned, boiled, sliced, and then fried until crispy. They are often served with a spicy, tangy tomatillo-based salsa. In Guadalajara , along with the traditional preparation for tacos, they are often prepared as a dish, served with a specialized sauce in a bowl and accompanied by a stack of tortillas, additional complementary sauces, limes, and salt. Though no longer commonly consumed, chitterlings, commonly called "chitlins", are

201-606: A few references of making chitlins for the master, and eating intestines was something that was in white culture for centuries before we get to the American South. People that went on hunts would eat the intestines as prized delicacies." Still Miller calls chitterlings "an iconic dish in African American food traditions, [with] a working-class vibe, even though the dish has shown up at high-class affairs". When plantations held early winter hog-killings, they preserved all parts of

268-533: A highly skilled workforce, with over 40% of residents holding degree-level qualifications or above. However, like many town centres across the UK, Farnborough has experienced some challenges in recent years when it comes to the health of its traditional retail sector. The rise of online shopping and changing consumer habits have led to increasing vacancy rates and declining footfall in the town's main shopping areas. In response, Rushmoor Borough Council has developed plans for

335-428: A major redevelopment of Farnborough's town centre. This £100 million+ project, set to be delivered over the coming decade, aims to transform the retail and leisure offer, with the construction of new cinema, restaurant and residential units. The goal is to reposition the town centre as a more vibrant, mixed-use destination that can better adapt to the evolving retail landscape. Farnborough is near arterial routes serving

402-482: A museum dedicated to the legacy of the Royal Aircraft Establishment, with exhibits on the development of British aeronautical technology. Visitors can also explore the historic wind tunnels on the former RAE site, which have been preserved as listed buildings. Farnborough has a relatively prosperous and affluent economic profile compared to many other parts of the UK. Data from the 2011 census shows that

469-406: A number of ways. Usually the intestines of a goat are used as part of the ingredients of Mannish water or goat belly soup. Sometimes goat head may be included and may simply be called goat head soup, even though most of the ingredients do not constitute goat head alone. The intestines of a cow are usually prepared as a stew in one of three ways. The most popular would be curried tripe and beans where

536-526: A predominantly white suburban settlement. However, the data does indicate a gradual diversification of Farnborough's population in recent decades. English is by far the most widely spoken language in Farnborough, with 90.3% of residents reporting it as their main language in the 2011 census. "Other" languages, accounting for 8.1% of the population. The Church of England has a significant presence in Farnborough, with several notable places of worship. The oldest

603-475: A reference to chitlins in their title. The bluegrass standard "It's Chitlin Cooking Time In Cheatham County" takes its name from the dish and Cheatham County, Tennessee . Chitterlings are also eaten as a dish in many East Asian cuisines. Both large and small intestine (typically pig) is eaten throughout China. Large intestine is called feichang , literally 'fat intestine' because it

670-437: A relic of oppression and others embracing them as a delicacy. In 1952's Invisible Man , novelist Ralph Ellison touched on this mixed cultural role of chitterlings among African Americans. By the 1960s the dish had become politicized among black people as a symbol both good and bad. Prominent activists from Eldridge Cleaver to Elijah Muhammad to Dick Gregory criticized chitterlings (and often soul food in general), but

737-408: A similar manner to pork rinds , known locally as chicharon . Two distinct types of these are called chicharon bituka and chicharon bulaklak , differing in the part of the intestine used. In New Zealand, sheep and lamb intestine is used, and sometimes pig, and is usually prepared very simply. First, moments after slaughter, a hose is run through the intestine to expel any intestinal matter;

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804-718: A song by 1970s Scrumpy and Western comedy folk band, The Wurzels , who come from the southwest of England. Haggis , made with sheep intestine, is still a common traditional food in Scotland . People in the Caribbean and in Latin America eat chitterlings. Chinchulín (in Argentina , Paraguay and Uruguay ) or chunchule (in Chile ) (from the Quechua ch'unchul , meaning 'intestine')

871-527: A strong presence in Farnborough, centred around St Michael's Abbey. This imposing church and monastery complex was constructed in the late 19th century at the behest of the Empress Eugénie, widow of Napoleon III , who lived in the town. St Michael's Abbey is home to a community of Benedictine monks and serves as a pilgrimage site, housing the tombs of Napoleon III and the Prince Imperial. In addition to

938-403: A stronger odor than small intestine. It is added to stir-fry dishes and soups. It is also slow-cooked or boiled and served as a standalone dish. It releases oil that may be visible in the dish. Small intestine is normally chopped into tubes and may be simply boiled and served with a dipping sauce. Preparation techniques and serving presentations for both small and large intestine vary greatly within

1005-543: A traditional food of the Southern United States that spread nationwide with the Black Migration . They are carefully cleaned and rinsed several times before they are boiled or stewed for several hours. A common practice is to place a halved onion in the pot to mitigate the very unpleasant odor that can be particularly strong when the chitterlings begin to cook. Chitterlings sometimes are battered and fried after

1072-473: A valley setting, with the main urban area situated between the River Blackwater to the east and higher ground to the west. The topography gradually rises from the valley floor, reaching a maximum elevation of around 90 metres (300 feet) above sea level on the fringes of the town. Geologically, Farnborough lies on a foundation of London Clay , overlain by deposits of sandy and gravelly Bagshot Beds from

1139-416: Is embuchados , and from the province of Aragon, madejas , all made with sheep's intestines and served as tapas. Chitterlings were common peasant food in medieval England, and remained a staple of the diet of low-income families right up until the late nineteenth century and not uncommon into the mid-twentieth century. Thomas Hardy wrote of chitterlings in his novel Tess of the D'Urbervilles , when

1206-511: Is twinned with: Farnborough falls under the jurisdiction of Rushmoor Borough Council , the local government authority for the borough of the same name. The borough is divided into eight electoral wards, each represented by three councillors on the borough council. At the time of writing, the Labour Party is in control of the council following significant gains in the May 2024 local elections. At

1273-403: Is St Peter's Church, parts of which date back to the 12th century. The current building was largely reconstructed and expanded during the 19th century, though it retains some original medieval features. In addition to St Peter's, other Anglican churches in Farnborough include St Mark's, built in 1881, and the more modern St Martin's Church, consecrated in 1978. The Roman Catholic faith also has

1340-511: Is another kind of French chitterlings sausage found especially in Brittany and Normandy . Saucisson is a type of sausage, which traditionally uses chitterlings both as a packaging and as an ingredient. Gallinejas are a traditional dish in Madrid . The dish consists of sheep 's small intestines, spleen, and pancreas, fried in their own fat in such a manner that they form small spirals. The dish

1407-794: Is called motsunabe ( もつ鍋 ) and is served as a nabe stew along with cabbage, chives, mungbean sprout, and tofu. In Korea, chitterlings ( gopchang ) are grilled or used for stews ( jeongol ) in Korea. When they are grilled, they are often accompanied by various seasonings and lettuce leaves (to wrap). Stew is cooked with various vegetables and seasonings. In the Philippines, pig intestines ( Filipino : bituka ng baboy ) are used in dishes such as dinuguan (pig blood stew). Grilled intestines are known as isaw and eaten as street food . Chicken intestines ( isaw ng manok , compared to isaw ng baboy ) are also used. Pig intestines are also prepared in

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1474-472: Is distributed fairly evenly throughout the year, with an annual average of around 760 millimetres (30 in). The driest months are usually spring (April–May) and the wettest are October and November. Snowfall occurs occasionally in winter, but heavy and prolonged snowstorms are uncommon due to the town's relatively low elevation and southern latitude. The Met Office have a weather station at Farnborough Airport which has been operating since 1914. Rushmoor

1541-455: Is fatty. Small intestine is called zhufenchang , literally 'pig powder intestine' because it contains a white, pasty or powdery substance called chyme. The character zhu or 'pig' is added at the beginning to disambiguate. This is because in Cantonese cuisine , there is a dish called cheong fun which uses intestine-shaped noodles. Large intestine is typically chopped into rings and has

1608-505: Is first recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, where it is listed as a small hamlet within the larger manor of Crondall . At this time, the settlement was held by the Norman lord, Odin de Windesores, who owned 3 hides of land there. The Domesday entry suggests Farnborough was a relatively insignificant rural village in the late 11th century, with a population estimated at 50-100 people. Over

1675-462: Is served hot, often with French fries . Few establishments today serve gallinejas , as this is considered to be more of a speciality than a common dish. It is most commonly served during festivals. Zarajo : A traditional dish from Cuenca is zarajo , braided sheep's intestines rolled on a vine branch and usually broiled, but also sometimes fried, and sometimes smoked, usually served hot as an appetizer or tapa . A similar dish from La Rioja

1742-477: Is the cow's small intestine used as a foodstuff. Other name variations from country to country are caldo avá ( Paraguay ), tripas or mondongo ( Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico ), mondongo ( Brazil , Peru , Panamá ), chunchullo , chinchurria or chunchurria ( Colombia ), chinchurria ( Venezuela ), tripa mishqui ( Ecuador ), tripe ( Jamaica ), and tripa ( Mexico ). In Jamaica, chitterlings are usually prepared in

1809-464: The Eocene epoch. The town's soils are generally free-draining and infertile, which historically limited the agricultural potential of the land. Neighbouring areas Farnborough forms part of the wider Blackwater Valley conurbation, which includes the neighbouring towns of Aldershot , Camberley , Yateley , Sandhurst and Frimley . The town itself is bordered to the east by the county of Surrey , with

1876-627: The Farnborough International Airshow , Farnborough Airport , Royal Aircraft Establishment , and the Air Accidents Investigation Branch . The earliest evidence of human settlement around Farnborough dates back thousands of years. Archaeologists have uncovered flint tools and other artefacts from the Mesolithic period, indicating the presence of hunter-gatherer communities in the area over 8,000 years ago. During

1943-589: The Neolithic period, the region saw increasing agricultural activity and the development of more permanent settlements. Excavations have revealed the remains of several prehistoric enclosures and barrows within the boundaries of modern-day Farnborough, suggesting it was home to thriving communities in the 4th-2nd millennia BC. The area continued to be inhabited throughout the Bronze Age and Iron Age , with hillforts, field systems and other archaeological evidence indicating

2010-492: The Christian denominations, Farnborough is also home to a small Muslim community centred around an Islamic centre established in the late 20th century. There are no purpose-built mosques within the town itself, though proposals for new facilities have been the subject of local controversy and planning disputes over the years. Sport plays an important role in the cultural life of Farnborough, with several clubs and facilities serving

2077-492: The Electoral boundary reviews, Grange and Mayfield wards were merged to create Cherrywood ward. Farnborough is represented on Hampshire County Council by three Divisions, each with a single elected representative. Farnborough North: Roz Chadd (Conservative) Farnborough South: Adam Jackman (Conservative) Farnborough West: Rod Cooper (Conservative) The table below shows the historical population growth of Farnborough since

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2144-588: The Prince Georges County, Maryland government shut down The Chitlin Market when the restaurant's location was rezoned from commercial to residential. White Southerners, especially of rural origin, have sometimes celebrated the eating of chitterlings. In the 20th century, eating clubs devoted to the dish arose in cities from Raleigh, North Carolina, to Nashville, Tennessee. The town of Salley, South Carolina , has held an annual Chitlin' Strut Festival since 1966 on

2211-561: The RAE, and the influx of skilled engineers and technicians it brought, had a profound impact on Farnborough's subsequent growth and character. Major aerospace companies such as Supermarine , Handley Page and De Havilland were attracted to set up factories and facilities in the area, further cementing the town's reputation as a hub of British aviation. In the decades following the Second World War, Farnborough continued to expand rapidly, with

2278-462: The River Blackwater forming much of the county boundary. Farnborough experiences a temperate oceanic climate (Köppen climate classification Cfb), typical of southeastern England. Summers are generally warm and dry, with average daily high temperatures around 22 °C (72 °F). Winters are mild, with average highs of 8 °C (46 °F) and lows around 2 °C (36 °F). Rainfall

2345-555: The Saturday after Thanksgiving and includes a fried chitterling–eating contest. The Chitlin' Circuit , a collection of performance venues for African Americans, is named for this "potent symbol of resilience in African American creative culture". In 1965, blues harmonica player and vocalist Junior Wells recorded a song, "Chitlin Con Carne" on his acclaimed Delmark Records album, Hoodoo Man Blues . Jazz guitarist Kenny Burrell recorded

2412-413: The animal that could be preserved by pickling, salting or smoking. Chitterlings, which could not be preserved, were cooked immediately as part of a post-slaughter celebration and served mainly (although not exclusively) to slaves. Because of this tie to special occasions, chitterlings have retained a role as a holiday delicacy, but gained a mixed reputation among African Americans, with some rejecting them as

2479-499: The binding process; these include well-cooked potatoes which have been puréed, cream-soaked bread , or pâte à choux . Farnborough, Hampshire Farnborough is a town located in the Rushmoor district of Hampshire , England. It has a population of around 57,486 as of the 2011 census and is an important centre of aviation, engineering and technology. The town is probably best known for its association with aviation, including

2546-481: The case of a gratin . Meats commonly used include pork , fish ( pike , trout , or salmon ), seafood , game meats ( venison , boar , or rabbit ), poultry , game birds , veal , and pork livers. Pork fatback is preferred as a fat, as it has a somewhat neutral flavor. Forcemeats are an ancient food and are included in Apicius , a collection of Roman cookery recipes usually thought to have been compiled in

2613-565: The coastal port of Portus Adurni (Portchester). Numerous Roman artefacts and building remains have been discovered within the town, suggesting it was home to a small rural settlement during the Roman period. Following the end of Roman rule in the early 5th century, the area was gradually absorbed into the emerging Anglo-Saxon kingdoms . The modern name "Farnborough" derives from the Old English "Ferneberga", meaning "fern-covered hill". Farnborough

2680-463: The country. In Japan, chitterlings or motsu ( もつ ) are often fried and sold on skewers or kushi ( 串 ) in kushikatsu ( 串カツ ) or kushiage ( 串揚げ ) restaurants and street vendor pushcarts. When grilled, it is usually called horumon ( ホルモン ) , as in Horumonyaki . It is also served as a soup called motsuni ( もつ煮 ) with miso, ginger, and finely chopped green onions to cut

2747-633: The county level, Farnborough is part of the Aldershot division represented on Hampshire County Council . In terms of national government representation, Farnborough is situated within the Aldershot parliamentary constituency . Since the 2024 general election, the local Member of Parliament has been Alex Baker of the Labour Party. Farnborough is part of the Borough of Rushmoor, along with Aldershot. It contains eight wards, each with three elected borough councillors. Until 2011, there were nine wards, but following

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2814-438: The development of major new business parks, light industrial estates and residential areas to accommodate the growing population. The town also became renowned globally as the host of the biennial Farnborough International Airshow , one of the world's largest and most important aerospace trade events. Farnborough is located in the northeastern corner of the county of Hampshire , near the border with Surrey . The town occupies

2881-613: The dish was also seen as "a way of celebrating the resistance and spirit of survival and creativity that emerged despite the horrific history of racism in this country" in Miller's words. In 2003, the Smithsonian Institution 's Anacostia Museum and Center for African American History and Culture accepted the papers of Shauna Anderson and her restaurant, The Chitlin Market, as part of its emerging collection of materials about African American celebrations, foods and foodways . In 2007,

2948-427: The early 19th century, based on census data: According to the 2011 census, Farnborough's ethnic composition was as follows: White: 87.2% Asian/Asian British: 7.9% Mixed/multiple ethnic groups: 2.6% Black/African/Caribbean/Black British: 1.3% Other ethnic group: 0.9% The town has a lower proportion of ethnic minority residents compared to the national average for England, likely reflecting its historical demographic as

3015-595: The expanding metropolis of London . The construction of the London and South Western Railway in the 1830s, with a station at Farnborough, greatly enhanced the town's accessibility and connectivity. This, combined with its healthy climate and picturesque rural setting, attracted an influx of wealthy London commuters and helped transform Farnborough into more of a suburban residential area. From 1830 to 1850, Farnborough's population grew from around 400 to over 800, as new housing developments and services were established to cater for

3082-650: The expanding middle-class community. The town's focal point shifted from the historic village core to the area around the railway station, with the construction of new churches, schools, shops and other amenities. The most transformative event in Farnborough's history came in 1905, when the Royal Engineers moved from Aldershot with their Balloon School and factory, to use the open space of Laffan's Plain for development and trials. They were joined by Samuel Cody in 1906, who came to demonstrate his man lifting kites, and he persuaded them to let him build an aeroplane. Cody became

3149-483: The father of a poor family, John Durbeyfield, talks of what he would like to eat: Tell 'em at home that I should like for supper—well, lamb's fry if they can get it; and if they can't, black-pot ; and if they can't get that, well, chitterlings will do. It illustrates that chitterlings were the poorest choice of poor food. George Sturt, writing in 1919 details the food eaten by his farming family in Farnborough when he

3216-677: The first person to fly in a powered aircraft in Great Britain in 1908. A full-scale replica of this Army Aeroplane No 1 now exists in a pavilion alongside the original Balloon School Headquarters building, now home to the Farnborough Air Sciences Trust (FAST) Aviation Museum. With the growth of aircraft related activity, the Army Balloon Factory became the Royal Aircraft Factory under civilian control. In 1912, with

3283-441: The following centuries, Farnborough remained a modest agricultural settlement, its economy based around subsistence farming, woodland management and small-scale industry. The manor passed through the hands of various noble families, including the de Farnborough and de Sherborne dynasties. Farnborough began to grow and develop more rapidly from the late 18th century onwards, driven by improved transportation links and its proximity to

3350-626: The formation of the Royal Flying Corps, the headquarters of the Balloon School became the headquarters of the Royal Flying Corps and is now known as "Trenchard House". The name of the Royal Aircraft Factory had to be changed in 1918, when the Royal Air Force was formed, becoming the Royal Aircraft Establishment (RAE). This led to Farnborough becoming a globally significant centre for aeronautical research and development. The establishment of

3417-695: The intestine is then usually braided and boiled with cabbage and potato. The dish is called terotero in Maori culture. "What are chitterlings" Forcemeat Forcemeat (derived from the French farcir , "to stuff" ) is a uniform mixture of lean meat with fat made by grinding or sieving the ingredients. The result may either be smooth or coarse. Forcemeats are used in the production of numerous items found in charcuterie , including quenelles , sausages , pâtés , terrines , roulades , and galantines . Forcemeats are usually produced from raw meat, except in

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3484-509: The intestines are cooked down with butter beans and curry powder . A similar stew is also made with butter beans but without the curry powder. Less common is a stew that is prepared with red kidney beans instead of butter beans and with no curry powder. In this latter case the stew has a very dark red colour and usually has a thick consistency. In most cases, chitterlings are commonly eaten with white rice, though rice and peas may be preferred. In Mexico , tripas are very popular served as

3551-516: The intestines are often chopped and cooked with oregano , peppers, and other spices. Tricandilles are a traditional dish in Gironde . They are made of pigs' small intestines, boiled in bouillon, then grilled on a fire of grapevine cane. This is considered an expensive delicacy. Andouillette is a type of sausage, found especially in Troyes , which is made predominantly of pig chitterlings. Andouille

3618-543: The late 1500s a chitterling was an ornate type of neck ruff , so called because its frilled edge looked like the folds of a slaughtered animal's entrails". Disease can be spread by chitterlings not cleaned properly and undercooked. Pathogens include E. coli , Yersinia enterocolitica , and Salmonella . Chitterlings are often soaked and rinsed thoroughly in several different cycles of cool water, and repeatedly picked clean by hand. They may then be turned inside out, cleaned and boiled, sometimes in baking soda or salt, and

3685-584: The late 19th century, and has occasionally gained national prominence, most notably when they reached the fourth round of the FA Cup in 2003, where they were narrowly defeated by Arsenal at Highbury. Other sports catered for in the town include cricket, with Cove Cricket Club playing in the Morrant Thames Valley Cricket League, and hockey, where the Camberley and Farnborough Hockey Club represents

3752-408: The late 4th or early 5th century AD. Often, the only binder in a forcemeat is the physical structure of the protein used. Sometimes a secondary binder is necessary to hold the mixture. These binders are generally needed when preparing country-style or gratin forcemeats. The three types of binders are eggs , dry milk powder , and panades . A panade can be made from starchy ingredients which aid in

3819-436: The local area. There are also tennis clubs, a cycling club, and facilities for various other recreational activities. Farnborough has a varied cultural offering, with a range of arts, entertainment and leisure facilities catering to local residents and visitors. Farnborough is also home to several museums and heritage attractions that celebrate the town's rich aviation history. The Farnborough Air Sciences Trust (FAST) operates

3886-545: The local community. The town's rugby union club, Farnborough RFC, was established in 1915 and has long been a fixture of the local sporting scene. The club's current home ground is at Tile Barn Close and it fields teams across various levels of the Hampshire leagues. Farnborough is home to a football club, Farnborough FC , which plays in the National League South. The club has a long and storied history, dating back to

3953-414: The presence of larger, more organized settlements. One notable site is Caesar's Camp , an Iron Age hillfort, located just north of the modern town. The Roman conquest of Britain in the 1st century AD brought major changes to the local landscape. The Devil's Highway , a key Roman road, passed through what is now Farnborough, linking the provincial capital of Calleva Atrebatum (modern-day Silchester) with

4020-412: The smell, as well as other ingredients and internal organs such as the stomach, depending on the preparer. In Okinawa, the soup is called nakamijiru ( 中身汁 ) and served without miso as the chitterlings are put through a long cleaning process to get rid of the smell so the miso is not needed. In Nagoya it is called doteyaki ( どて焼き ) and is served with red miso and without the soup. In Fukuoka, it

4087-460: The stewing process and commonly are served with apple cider vinegar and hot sauce as condiments. Attempts have been made to modernize the dish with microwaveable chitterling snacks developed in the 2010s. Chitterlings have a strong connection with African-American soul food in the U.S. A common assumption is that the Southern consumption of chitterlings arose in the pre– Civil War era of slavery in

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4154-536: The town has a higher than average proportion of residents employed in managerial, professional and technical occupations. The median annual household income in Farnborough was estimated at £47,000 as of 2020, significantly above the national average. This reflects the town's high concentration of well-paid jobs in the aerospace, technology and financial services sectors. Unemployment rates in Farnborough have historically been low, averaging around 3-4% in recent years, compared to national figures of 4-5%. The town also has

4221-500: The unrelated jazz blues " Chitlins con Carne " on 1963's Midnight Blue (covered by others including Stevie Ray Vaughan and Double Trouble on The Sky Is Crying .) Other notable blues songs with references to chitlins were recorded in 1929 by Peg Leg Howell ("Chittlin' Supper"), and in 1934 by the Memphis Jug Band (" Rukus Juice and Chittlin'"). Gus Jenkins , Johnny Otis , and Arthur Williams have also recorded songs with

4288-511: The water discarded. As pigs are a common source of meat in many parts of the world, the dish known as chitterlings can be found in most pork-eating cultures. Chitterlings made from pig intestines are popular in many parts of Europe, and are also eaten in the southern United States. Kokoretsi , kukurec , or kokoreç are usually prepared and stuffed, then grilled on a spit. In several countries such as Turkey, Greece, Albania, and Bulgaria, lamb intestines are widely used. In Turkish cuisine ,

4355-422: The when less desirable parts of the pig, like pigs feet and hog jowls, were given to slaves, while the better cuts went to the slave masters, who were thus said to be " living high on the hog ". However, culinary historian Adrian Miller points out that, "Enslaved people did eat chitlins, but white people were eating them as well. In fact, if you look at slave narratives and oral histories of the era, there were quite

4422-399: Was a child (probably around 1830): During the winter they had chance to weary of almost every form and kind of pig-meat: hog's puddings, gammons , chitterlings, souse , salted spareribs—they knew all the varieties and welcomed any change. Mutton they almost never tasted: but sometimes they had a calf's head; sometimes even, though less often, a joint of veal. Chitterlings are the subject of

4489-489: Was essentially a bacon and offal sausage in a calf's intestine casing . The recipe explained the use of calves', rather than the more usual pigs', intestines with the comment that "[these] sort of   ... puddings must be made in summer, when hogs are seldom killed". This recipe was repeated by the English cookery writer Hannah Glasse in her 1784 cookery book Art of Cookery . Linguist Paul Anthony Jones has written, "in

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