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94-473: Barong may refer to any of the following things: Barong tagalog , an embroidered formal garment of the Philippines Barong (mythology) , name of the king of the spirits, leader of the hosts of good, and enemy of Rangda in the mythological traditions of Bali Barong Temple , a 9th-century Hindu temple located near Prambanan, Yogyakarta Barong (sword) ,

188-614: A state of war in these provinces and placed them under martial law . These were Manila, Bulacan , Cavite, Pampanga, Tarlac , Laguna , Batangas , and Nueva Ecija . They would later be represented in the eight rays of the sun in the Filipino flag . Emilio Aguinaldo and the Katipuneros of Cavite were the most successful of the rebels and they controlled most of their province by September–October. They defended their territories with trenches designed by Edilberto Evangelista . Many of

282-507: A Spanish expedition to circumnavigate the globe, was killed by warriors of datu Lapulapu at the Battle of Mactan . In 1543, Ruy López de Villalobos arrived at the islands of Leyte and Samar and named them Las Islas Filipinas in honor of Philip II of Spain , at the time Prince of Asturias . Philip became King of Spain on January 16, 1556, when his father, Charles I of Spain (who also reigned as Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor ), abdicated

376-468: A form of power dressing when worn by female politicians (such as Corazon Aquino during her presidency). However, the direct female counterpart of the barong tagalog is the baro't saya (or more formal versions of it like the traje de mestiza and the terno ), and both share the same precolonial origins. The barong tagalog originated from Tagalog baro (literally "shirt" or "clothing", also known as barú or bayú in other Philippine languages ),

470-453: A general offensive on Manila and was defeated in battle at the town of San Juan del Monte . He regrouped his forces and was able to briefly capture the towns of Marikina , San Mateo and Montalbán . Spanish counterattacks drove him back and he retreated to the heights of Balara and Morong and from there engaged in guerrilla warfare . By August 30, the revolt had spread to eight provinces. On that date, Governor-General Ramón Blanco declared

564-621: A groom in a western suit and a bride in a terno . However, by the 1990s, the situations had reversed. Grooms now almost always wear barong tagalog, while women favored western-style bridal gowns. The finest barong tagalog are made from a variety of indigenous sheer fabrics ( nipis ). The most common traditional materials used are listed below. The fabrics used can also be composites of two different materials (like cotton and jusi or silk and piña ). Additionally, more informal barongs can also utilize common opaque textiles like cotton , linen , polyester , or ramie . The term barong tagalog

658-583: A larger fleet comprising both Spanish and a majority Visayan force, taking a month to bring these forces to bear due to slow speed of local ships. This large force caused the surrender of neighboring Tondo . An attempt by some local leaders, known as the Tondo Conspiracy , to defeat the Spanish was repelled. Legazpi renamed Maynila Nueva Castilla , and declared it the capital of the Philippines, and thus of

752-432: A loose silhouette with slits on both sides. However, they lacked buttons. Early examples of barong mahaba usually had high-standing collars or even Elizabethan-style ruffs with narrow cravats . Barong mahaba were generally worn with colorful straight-cut trousers with stripes, checkers , or plaid-like patterns (generally made from imported cambaya , rayadillo , and guingón fabrics), top hats ( sombrero de copa ), and

846-574: A national identity. This was compounded by a Mexican of Filipino descent, Isidoro Montes de Oca , becoming captain-general to the revolutionary leader Vicente Guerrero during the Mexican War of Independence. The Insulares had become increasingly Filipino and called themselves Los hijos del país (lit. "sons of the country"). Among the early proponents of Filipino nationalism were the Insulares Padre Pedro Peláez , who fought for

940-575: A second settlement on the bank of the Panay River . In 1570, Legazpi sent his grandson, Juan de Salcedo , who had arrived from Mexico in 1567, to Mindoro to punish the Muslim Moro pirates who had been plundering Panay villages. Salcedo also destroyed forts on the islands of Ilin and Lubang , respectively south and northwest of Mindoro. In 1570, Martín de Goiti , having been dispatched by Legazpi to Luzon, conquered Maynila . Legazpi followed with

1034-586: A short, yet wide, leaf shaped blade or knife used by the Moro peoples of the Philippines and Sabah See also [ edit ] Barongan , a traditional Indonesian Reog dance, also performed by Indonesians in Malaysia Barongsai , a traditional lion dance of Chinese descendants in Indonesia Topics referred to by the same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with

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1128-409: A simple collar-less shirt or jacket with close-fitting long sleeves worn by both men and women in most ethnic groups in the pre-colonial Philippines . These were made from rough linen-like cloth woven from native abacá fiber, or from imported fabrics woven from silk , cotton , and kapok , among others. Among Tagalog men, they were commonly paired with a rectangle of richly decorated cloth known as

1222-576: A single unified administration. From 1565 to 1821, the Philippines was governed as part of the Mexico-based Viceroyalty of New Spain, later administered from Madrid following the Mexican War of Independence . Administration of the Philippine islands were considered a drain on the economy of Spain, and there were debates about abandoning it or trading it for some other territory. However, this

1316-482: A small river boat to Butuán . However, Dutch aid did not materialize or have objects to provide them. The authorities from Manila issued a general pardon, and many of the Filipinos in the mountains surrendered. The demands of these wars has been regarded as a potential cause of population decline. In August 1759, Charles III ascended the Spanish throne. At the time, Great Britain and France were at war, in what

1410-413: A type of embroidered velvet or leather slip-on shoes known as corchos. While barong mahaba were generally worn loose, they were sometimes fastened by silk strings through three openings around the waist, either over or under the shirt. The sheer fabric used by barong mahaba also necessitated the wearing of an undershirt, known as camisón or camiseta , which was also worn on its own by commoners. By

1504-587: Is a common formal or semi-formal attire in Filipino culture , and is worn untucked over an undershirt with belted trousers and dress shoes . Baro't saya is the feminine equivalent of barong tagalog, with the Maria Clara gown being the formal variant of the latter. Barong tagalog was also known as camisa fuera ("outer shirt") in Philippine Spanish . The term "barong tagalog" is usually shortened in modern Filipino to "barong". Grammatically, it contains

1598-563: Is almost exclusively used to refer to the formal version of the barong. Named variants of the barong tagalog include the following: The barong tagalog is a possible precursor to the guayabera , a shirt popular in Latin American communities since the late 19th century. It may have been introduced first to Mexico via the Manila-Acapulco Galleons and were adapted to use local fabrics in the absence of piña or abacá. A variant of

1692-464: Is an embroidered long-sleeved formal shirt for men and a national dress of the Philippines . Barong tagalog combines elements from both the precolonial native Filipino and colonial Spanish clothing styles. It is traditionally made with sheer textiles ( nipis ) woven from piña or abacá ; although in modern times, cheaper materials like organza silk , ramie or polyester are also used. It

1786-466: Is that the Spanish colonizers made the natives wear their barong tagalog with the shirt tails hanging out to distinguish them from the ruling class; its translucent fabric allegedly showing that the wearer was not concealing a weapon underneath. There are no historical records of this anytime from the 16th to the late 19th century. No regulations mandated the use of sheer material or banned the tucking in of men's shirts. Baro were always worn untucked, even in

1880-673: Is worn over an undershirt known as the camisón or camiseta , which can have short or long sleeves. The term camisa de chino is also used for collar-less and cuff-less shirts, named after its resemblance to shirts worn by Chinese laborers . It is worn with belted trousers and dress shoes . Headgear, when worn, is either a salakot or a buntal hat (and historically also top hats or bowler hats ). The ensemble mixes elements of both native and Spanish traditions. Barong tagalog can vary considerably in terms of design and material used, but they share common characteristics of having long sleeves, embroidery, being buttoned (halfway or straight down

1974-620: The Dutch Republic , as part of the Eighty Years' War . Although the Spanish forces consisted of just two Manila galleons and a galley with crews composed mainly of Filipino volunteers, against three separate Dutch squadrons, totaling eighteen ships, the Dutch squadrons were severely defeated in all fronts by the Spanish-Filipino forces, forcing the Dutch to abandon their plans for an invasion of

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2068-602: The Insulares came out with Indios agraviados , a manifesto defending the Filipino against discriminatory remarks. The tension between the Insulares and Peninsulares erupted into the failed revolts of Novales and the Cavite mutiny of 1872, which resulted in the deportation of prominent Filipino nationalists to the Marianas and Europe , who would continue the fight for liberty through

2162-512: The Katipunan . A rivalry developed between himself and Marcelo Hilario del Pilar for the leadership of La Solidaridad and the reform movement in Europe. Majority of the expatriates supported the leadership of del Pilar. Rizal then returned to the Philippines to organize La Liga Filipina and bring the reform movement to Philippine soil. He was arrested just a few days after founding the league. Rizal

2256-608: The New World , effectively legalizing a more oppressive conquest. Although slavery had been abolished in the Spanish Empire , it took around a century for it to be fully abolished in the Philippines due to the pre-colonial alipin system of slavery already existing in the islands. Due to conflict with the Portuguese , who blockaded Cebu in 1568 , and persistent supply shortages, in 1569 Legazpi transferred to Panay and founded

2350-551: The Peninsulares , whom the Insulares regarded as foreigners. The Spanish American wars of independence and renewed immigration led to shifts in social identity, with the term Filipino shifting from referring to Spaniards born in the Iberian Peninsula and in the Philippines to a term encompassing all people in the archipelago. This identity shift was driven by wealthy families of mixed ancestry, for which it developed into

2444-470: The Propaganda Movement . The Cavite Mutiny implicated the priests Mariano Gomez , José Burgos , and Jacinto Zamora (see Gomburza ), whose executions would influence the subversive activities of the next generation of Filipino nationalists, among them José Rizal, who then dedicated his novel El filibusterismo to these priests. A national public school system was introduced in 1863. After

2538-642: The Spanish East Indies , initially under the Viceroyalty of New Spain , based in Mexico City , until the independence of the Mexican Empire from Spain in 1821. This resulted in direct Spanish control during a period of governmental instability there. The first documented European contact with the Philippines was made in 1521 by Ferdinand Magellan in his circumnavigation expedition , during which he

2632-459: The United States . However, other than this, Quezon mostly wore American-style formal wear and did not promote the barong tagalog. After the Philippines independence on July 4, 1946, Americana or a suit and tie continued to be the dominant formal wear, worn by presidents Manuel Roxas and Elpidio Quirino . In 1953, however, President Ramón Magsaysay won the election by being "a man of

2726-474: The Visayas at the time of the first Spanish missions is estimated as between 1 and 1.5 million, overall density being low. Philip II, whose name has remained attached to the islands, ordered and oversaw the conquest and colonization of the Philippines. On November 19 or 20, 1564, a Spanish expedition of a mere 500 men led by Miguel López de Legazpi departed Barra de Navidad (modern Mexican state of Jalisco ) in

2820-594: The enclitic suffix -ng , which indicates that it is modified by or modifies the next word. The root word of barong is the Tagalog word baro , meaning "outfit" or "clothing". The term is usually not capitalized. Though "barong tagalog" literally translates to " Tagalog outfit", the "tagalog" in the name does not mean that it was a form of dress exclusive to the Tagalog people , as opposed to other Philippine ethnic groups . Barong tagalog (and baro't saya ) were worn universally among Christianized lowlanders throughout

2914-626: The guayabera traditionally worn in Yucatan is still called " filipina. " History of the Philippines, 1565%E2%80%931898 Events/Artifacts (north to south) Events/Artifacts Artifacts The history of the Philippines from 1565 to 1898 is known as the Spanish colonial period , during which the Philippine Islands were ruled as the Captaincy General of the Philippines within

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3008-486: The salaual or salawal worn knee-length and drawn up in the middle (like an Indian dhoti or Thai and Cambodian sompot chong kben ); while in women they were paired with a wraparound skirt known as the tapis . The baro usually extend to just slightly below the waist. However, in the Visayas , aside from similar baro (which had shorter sleeves) and salaual combinations, men also wore colorful robe-like and coat-like variants that could extend to well below

3102-485: The 1570s, the Spanish traders were troubled to some extent by Japanese pirates, but peaceful trading relations were established between the Philippines and Japan by 1590. Japan's kampaku ( regent ) Toyotomi Hideyoshi , demanded unsuccessfully on several occasions that the Philippines submit to Japan's suzerainty . On February 8, 1597, Philip II, near the end of his 42-year reign, issued a Royal Cedula instructing Francisco de Tello de Guzmán , then Governor-General of

3196-457: The 17th century, far outnumbering civilian arrivals. Most of these soldiers were criminals and young boys rather than men of character. Hardship for the colonizing soldiers contributed to looting and enslavement, despite the entreaties of representatives of the church who accompanied them. In 1568, the Spanish Crown permitted the establishment of the encomienda system that it was abolishing in

3290-431: The 1840s, barong mahaba largely fell out of fashion. In this period, it evolved into the modern "classic" barong tagalog, being much shorter with less ostentatious folded collars, while still retaining the sheer fabric and other baro characteristics. They were also worn with smaller hats like bowler hats ( sombrero hongo ) or native buntal hats . They were initially paired with looser trousers, though they gradually assumed

3384-506: The 200-year-old fortifications in Manila did not see significant change after being first built by the early Spanish colonizers. Some Japanese ships visited the Philippines in the 1570s in order to export Japanese silver and import Philippine gold . Later, increasing imports of silver from New World sources resulted in Japanese exports to the Philippines shifting from silver to consumer goods. In

3478-572: The British confidence in eventual victory. The surrender by Archbishop Rojo was rejected as illegal by Don Simón de Anda y Salazar , who claimed the title of Governor-General under the statutes of the Council of the Indies . He led Spanish-Filipino forces that kept the British confined to Manila and sabotaged or crushed British-fomented revolts, such as the revolt by Diego Silang . Anda intercepted and redirected

3572-613: The European population, which before was reserved only for indigenous Filipinos. During its rule, Spain quelled various indigenous revolts , as well as defending against external military challenges. The Spanish considered their war with the Muslims in Southeast Asia an extension of the Reconquista . War against the Dutch from the west, in the 17th century, together with conflict with

3666-814: The Europeans as well, as the majority of Filipinos are native Austronesians. Spain maintained a presence in towns and cities. At the immediate south of Manila, Mexicans were present at Ermita and at Cavite , where they were stationed as sentries. In addition, men conscripted from Peru , were also sent to settle Zamboanga City in Mindanao , to wage war upon Muslim defenders. There were also communities of Spanish- Mestizos that developed in Iloilo , Negros , and Vigan . Interactions between indigenous Filipinos and immigrant Spaniards along with Latin Americans eventually caused

3760-519: The First, Second and Third Battles of Playa Honda . The second battle is the most famous and celebrated of the three, with nearly even forces (10 ships vs 10 ships), resulting in the Dutch losing their flagship and retreating. Only the third battle of 1624 resulted in a Dutch naval victory. In 1646, a series of five naval actions known as the Battles of La Naval de Manila was fought between the forces of Spain and

3854-732: The French and American Revolutions. The new economy gave rise to a new middle class in the Philippines. In the mid-19th century, the Suez Canal was opened which made the Philippines easier to reach from Spain. The small increase of Peninsulares from the Iberian Peninsula threatened the secularization of the Philippine churches . In state affairs, the Criollos , known locally as Insulares (lit. "islanders"), were displaced from government positions by

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3948-712: The Liberals won the Spanish Revolution of 1868 , Carlos María de la Torre was sent to the Philippines to serve as governor-general (1869–1871). He was one of the most loved governors-general in the Philippines because of the reforms he implemented. At one time, his supporters, including Padre Burgos and Joaquín Pardo de Tavera, serenaded him in front of the Malacañan Palace . Following the Bourbon Restoration in Spain and

4042-478: The Manila galleon trade to prevent further captures by the British. The failure of the British to consolidate their position led to troop desertions and a breakdown of command unity which left the British forces paralysed and in an increasingly precarious position. The Seven Years' War was ended by the Peace of Paris signed on February 10, 1763. At the time of signing the treaty, the signatories were not aware that Manila

4136-585: The Muslims in the south nearly bankrupted the colonial treasury. Moros from western Mindanao and the Sulu Archipelago also raided the coastal Christian areas of Luzon and the Visayas. Settlers had to fight off the Chinese pirates (who lay siege to Manila, the most famous of which was Limahong in 1573). There were three naval actions fought between Dutch corsairs and Spanish forces in 1610, 1617 and 1624, known as

4230-432: The Philippines to fulfill the laws of tributes and to provide for restitution of ill-gotten taxes taken from indigenous Filipinos . The decree was published in Manila on August 5, 1598. King Philip died on September 13, just forty days after the publication of the decree, but his death was not known in the Philippines until middle of 1599, by which time a referendum by which indigenous Filipinos would acknowledge Spanish rule

4324-457: The Philippines during the Spanish colonial era from the 16th to the 18th centuries were limited, thus the exact evolution of the precolonial baro to the modern barong tagalog can not be established with precision. Based on illustrations and written accounts, however, baro were still largely only worn by commoners during this period. They were mostly identical to precolonial baro and were made from opaque linen -like abacá textiles, and thus lacked

4418-497: The Philippines had been prohibited from trading with nations other than Spain, the demand led Spain, under Governor-General José Basco, to open the ports to international trade as both as a source of raw materials and as a market for manufactured goods. Following the opening of Philippine ports to world trade in 1834, shifts started occurring within Filipino society. The decline of the Manila Galleon trade contributed to shifts in

4512-403: The Philippines in the Spanish colonial period. Rather, the name was coined to distinguish the dress as native (hence "tagalog", i.e. Indio ), as opposed to the styles of dress of Europeans and other foreign cultures. Barong tagalog is a formal shirt usually made of sheer lightweight but stiff fabric known as nipis (usually woven from piña or abacá fibers). When using sheer fabrics, it

4606-484: The Philippines. The mass deportation of nationalists to the Marianas and Europe in 1872 led to a Filipino expatriate community of reformers in Europe. The community grew with the next generation of Ilustrados studying in European universities. They allied themselves with Spanish liberals, notably Spanish senator Miguel Morayta Sagrario, and founded the newspaper La Solidaridad . During this time, Spain institutionalized

4700-467: The Philippines. On June 6, 1647, Dutch vessels were sighted near Mariveles Island. In spite of the preparations, the Spanish had only one galleon (the San Diego ) and two galleys ready to engage the enemy. The Dutch had twelve major vessels. On June 12, the armada attacked the Spanish port of Cavite. The battle lasted eight hours, and the Spanish believed they had done much damage to the enemy flagship and

4794-532: The Spanish made peace with the Joloans, and then also withdrew. There was also an unsuccessful attack on Zamboanga in 1648. That year the Dutch promised the natives of Mindanao that they would return in 1649 with aid in support of a revolt against the Spanish. Several revolts did break out, the most serious being in the village of Lindáo. There most of the Spaniards were killed, and the survivors were forced to flee in

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4888-524: The Spanish throne. Philip was in Brussels at the time and his return to Spain was delayed until 1559 because of European politics and wars in northern Europe. Shortly after his return to Spain, Philip ordered an expedition mounted to the Spice Islands , stating that its purpose was "to discover the islands of the west". In reality its task was to conquer the Philippines for Spain. The population of Luzon and

4982-523: The Viceroyalty of New Spain , arriving off Cebu on February 13, 1565, conquering it despite Cebuano opposition. Approximately 200-400 of these men were Tlaxcallan soldiers, having allied themselves with Spain during the Spanish conquest of Mexico . Some of the Tlaxcallans settled permanently on the islands, and numerous Nahuatl words were absorbed into the Filipino languages . More than 15,000 soldiers arrived from New Spain as new migrants during

5076-489: The barong tagalog developed during this period, including the short-sleeved polo barong and the linen barong. In 1998, Supreme Court Justice Hilario Davide, Jr. mandated the wearing of barong tagalog for all employees of the Judiciary of the Philippines . While the barong tagalog was now regarded as formal wear, it did not gain popularity as a wedding attire for grooms in the early post-war Philippines. Most weddings featured

5170-409: The burgeoning ilustrado educated class. A notable variant of the barong tagalog during this period was the baro cerrada (literally "closed baro"). Its name is derived from its closed-neck collar. It was made from opaque material (which can be white or darker colors) and was paired with white pants. This style of baro remained popular up until the early 1900s. A commonly repeated but false belief

5264-462: The business of human zoos against Filipinos, adding flame to the call of revolution, as indigenous Filipinos were taken by the Spanish and displayed as animals for white audiences. Among the reformers was José Rizal, who wrote two novels while in Europe. His novels were considered the most influential of the Illustrados' writings, causing further unrest in the islands, particularly the founding of

5358-501: The chest), and the absence of pockets. They are also worn loosely and have slits on both sides. Historically, the material used for barong tagalog depended on the social class of the wearer and the formality of the occasion. Barong tagalog made of fine, sheer material like nipis were worn largely by the upper classes or were used for festive occasions; while barong tagalog made of cheaper opaque materials like cotton or sinamay were used by lower classes or for daily wear. The quality of

5452-468: The collars, buttons, and embroidery of later baro styles. The couturier Jose "Pitoy" Moreno has hypothesized that this transitional style of shirt was the camisa de chino of later centuries, which makes it a precursor to the barong tagalog. Depictions of members of the principalia upper classes (including natives and mestizos ) in the 18th century showed that they invariably wore European-style clothing. The first baro precursor to gain favor among

5546-615: The country . The Spanish colonial period ended with the defeat of Spain by the United States in the Spanish–American War and the Treaty of Paris on December 10, 1898, which marked the beginning of the American colonial era of Philippine history. The Spaniards had been exploring the Philippines since the early 16th century. Ferdinand Magellan , a Portuguese navigator in charge of

5640-779: The dimensions of modern trousers by the end of the 19th century. The colors of the barong tagalog also became more muted and monochromatic, in contrast to the colorful barong mahaba ensembles of earlier decades. Barong tagalog ensembles from the mid-19th century onwards were usually combinations of black and white, blue and white, or all-white. Baro worn by commoners also favored darker colors like brown or blue, usually paired with white silk pants. This type of barong tagalog were common among government workers and businessmen, who usually wore them underneath jackets ( chaqueta ). Sheer baro were also worn by natives and mestizos for fiestas , leisure activities like dancing, or for church. However, western-style suits became more popular among students of

5734-409: The domestic economy. Communal land became privatized to meet international demand for agricultural products, which led to the formal opening of the ports of Manila, Iloilo , and Cebu to international trade. The development of the Philippines as a source of raw materials and as a market for European manufactures created much local wealth. Many Filipinos prospered. Everyday Filipinos also benefited from

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5828-401: The educated ilustrado class such as Antonio Luna and Apolinario Mabini did not initially favor an armed revolution. José Rizal himself, whom the rebels took inspiration from and had consulted beforehand, disapproved of a premature revolution. He was arrested, tried and executed for treason, sedition and conspiracy on December 30, 1896. Before his arrest he had issued a statement disavowing

5922-412: The formation of a new language, Chavacano , a creole of Mexican Spanish . They depended on the galleon trade for a living. In the later years of the 18th century, Governor-General José Basco introduced economic reforms that gave the colony its first significant internal source income from the production of tobacco and other agricultural exports. In this later period, agriculture was finally opened to

6016-538: The fortified monastery, taking prisoners and executing almost 200 Filipino defenders. The governor ordered solemn funeral rites for the dead and payments to their widows and orphans. There was an expedition the following year that arrived in Jolo in July. The Dutch had formed an alliance with an anti-Spanish king, Salicala. The Spanish garrison on the island was small, but survived a Dutch bombardment. The Dutch finally withdrew, and

6110-503: The knees (known as the marlota and baquero in Spanish, respectively). These were sometimes belted at the waist. Among Tagalogs, red dyes and gold trimmings were indicative of being a member of nobility ( maginoo ) or the warrior caste ( maharlika ). The design of the original baro was influenced by trade and contact with neighboring regions, the most notable influence being the South Asian kurta . Early records of clothing in

6204-435: The late 16th century the population of Manila grew even as the population of Spanish settlements in the Visayas decreased. In time, the Spanish successfully took over the different local states one by one . Under Spanish rule, disparate barangays were deliberately consolidated into towns , where Catholic missionaries were more easily able to convert the inhabitants to Christianity . The missionaries converted most of

6298-447: The local and mestizo elites was the barong mahaba (literally "long baro") which became prominent starting from the 1820s. These were much longer than the modern barong tagalog, reaching down to slightly above the knees. They were also commonly striped with bold colors like blue, red, or green. However, they already displayed hallmarks of the modern barong tagalog, including being made of sheer nipis material, embroidery, long sleeves, and

6392-410: The lowland inhabitants to Christianity. They also founded schools, a university, hospitals, and churches. To defend their settlements, the Spaniards constructed and manned a network of military fortresses across the archipelago. Slavery was also abolished. As a result of these policies the Philippine population increased exponentially. Spanish rule brought most of what is now the Philippines into

6486-400: The masses". He deliberately wore a barong tagalog at his inauguration. The press played up the symbolism of Magsaysay in a barong tagalog and the outgoing Quirino in a western-style suit as symbolic of the "break" between the independent Philippines and its colonial past. He also wore barong tagalog in most public and private state functions. Magsaysay's use of the barong tagalog as formal attire

6580-848: The material and the intricacy of the embroidery were often signs of the status and wealth of the wearer. The embroidery of the barong tagalog are commonly placed on a rectangular section on the front of the chest (known as pechera , "shirt front", from Spanish pecho , "chest"), and/or over the entire shirt ( sabog , from Tagalog for "scattered"). They feature various embroidery techniques, including calado and doble calado ("pierced" and "double-pierced", types of openwork drawn thread embroidery ), encajes de bolilio ( Venetian lace ), and sombrado (shadow embroidery). They can also have other kinds of ornamentation, like alforza (pleats), suksuk ( weft floats), and even hand-painted designs. Occasionally feminized versions are worn by women, either as an egalitarian or haute couture fashion statement; or as

6674-528: The mutual recognition of Spanish claim to the Philippines as well as Portugal's claim to the Spice Islands (Moluccas) . In 1573, Japan expanded its trade in northern Luzon. In 1580, the Japanese lord Tay Fusa established the independent wokou Tay Fusa state in non-colonial Cagayan . When the Spanish arrived in the area, they subjugated the settlement, resulting in the 1582 Cagayan battles . With time, Cebu's importance fell as power shifted north to Luzon. In

6768-460: The native terno (a modernized and unified version of the baro't saya ), which was then associated with suffragists . Barro cerrada remained popular as informal leisure clothing, however. A notable barong tagalog during this period was the "Commonwealth Barong Tagalog" worn by President Manuel L. Quezon , which featured embroidery of the flags of the Commonwealth of the Philippines and

6862-404: The new economy with the rapid increase in demand for labor and availability of business opportunities. Some Europeans immigrated to the Philippines to join the wealth wagon, among them Jacobo Zobel, patriarch of today's Zobel de Ayala family and prominent figure in the rise of Filipino nationalism. Their scions studied in the best universities of Europe where they learned the ideals of liberty from

6956-744: The objective of the Philippines seceding from the Spanish Empire. By 1896, the Katipunan had a membership by the thousands. That same year, the existence of the Katipunan was discovered by the colonial authorities. In late August, Katipuneros gathered in Caloocan and declared the start of the revolution. The event is now known as the Cry of Balintawak or the Cry of Pugad Lawin , due to conflicting historical traditions and official government positions. Andrés Bonifacio called for

7050-453: The other vessels. The Spanish ships were not badly damaged and casualties were low. However, nearly every roof in the Spanish settlement was damaged by cannon fire, which particularly concentrated on the cathedral. On June 19, the armada was split, with six ships sailing for the shipyard of Mindoro and the other six remaining in Manila Bay . The Dutch next attacked Pampanga , where they captured

7144-441: The precolonial period; and up until the 19th century, they were not made from translucent nipis fabric. While the style and textiles worn by different classes did vary over the Spanish colonial period, this was due to fashion, wealth, and class distinction, rather than law. Most commoners throughout the colonial period wore baro made from cheaper and more durable opaque textiles, while expensive nipis fabrics were worn mostly by

7238-426: The removal of the Liberals from power, de la Torre was recalled and replaced by Governor-General Izquierdo , who vowed to rule with an iron fist. Revolutionary sentiments were stoked in 1872 after three activist Catholic priests were executed on weak pretences. This would inspire a propaganda movement in Spain, organized by Marcelo H. del Pilar , José Rizal, and Mariano Ponce , lobbying for political reforms in

7332-564: The rest of the Spanish East Indies , which also encompassed Spanish territories in Asia and the Pacific . Legazpi became the country's first governor-general. Though the fledgling Legazpi-led administration was initially small and vulnerable to elimination by Portuguese and Chinese invaders, the merging of the Spanish and Portuguese crowns under the Iberian Union of 1580-1640 helped make permanent

7426-555: The revolution, but in his farewell poem Mi último adiós he wrote that dying in battle for the sake of one's country was just as patriotic as his own impending death. While the revolution spread throughout the provinces, Aguinaldo's Katipuneros declared the existence of an insurgent government in October regardless of Bonifacio's Katipunan, which he had already converted into an insurgent government with him as president in August. Bonifacio

7520-519: The secularization of Philippine churches and expulsion of the friars, Padre José Burgos whose execution influenced the national hero José Rizal , and Joaquín Pardo de Tavera who fought for retention of government positions by natives, regardless of race. In retaliation to the rise of Filipino nationalism, the friars called the Indios (possibly referring to Insulares and mestizos as well) indolent and unfit for government and church positions. In response,

7614-542: The time. The wearing of barong tagalog did have racial connotations however, since most people of unmixed European descent (the insulares , criollos , and peninsulares ) retained their own dress styles and largely ignored native fashions. The popularity of barong tagalog further waned during the American colonial period . It was replaced by suits (known as Americana in the Philippines) and tuxedos in most formal functions. In contrast, women persisted in wearing

7708-533: The title Barong . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change the link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Barong&oldid=1235229347 " Category : Disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Barong tagalog The barong tagalog , more commonly known simply as barong (and occasionally baro ),

7802-416: The upper classes. Natives ( indios descended from precolonial nobility) and mestizos (both mestizos de Español and mestizos de sangley ) were also part of the aristocratic upper classes ( principalia ) and it wasn't restricted to Europeans. Indios and mestizos , regardless of class, wore barong tagalog and European-style clothing depending on what they can afford and which were fashionable at

7896-465: The wider population. Though they collectively had significant impact on Filipino society, assimilation erased prior caste differences between them and, in time, the importance of their national origin. However, according to genetic studies, the Philippines remained largely unaffected by admixture with Europeans. Latin Americans outnumbered Europeans, the Spanish in general, and the Chinese outnumbered

7990-544: Was also declared as the "Barong Tagalog Week". Following Marcos' decree, barong tagalog became widely mandated as office wear for both employees of the government and private companies, as well as school uniforms . In the 1970s to the 1980s, companies like the Philippine Airlines , Ayala Corporation , and the Allied Bank were prescribing barong tagalog as their uniforms. Various semi-formal and informal versions of

8084-711: Was elected as the new leader of the revolution. On March 22, 1897, the convention established the Tejeros Revolutionary Government. Bonifacio refused to recognize this and, with others, concluded the Naic Military Agreement . This led to his execution for treason in May 1897. On November 1, the Tejeros government was supplanted by the Republic of Biak-na-Bato . By December 1897, the revolution had resulted in

8178-542: Was eventually executed on December 30, 1896, on charges of rebellion. This radicalized many who had previously been loyal to Spain. As attempts at reform met with resistance, in 1892, Radical members of the La Liga Filipina, which included Andrés Bonifacio and Deodato Arellano , founded the Kataastaasan Kagalanggalang Katipunan ng mga Anak ng Bayan (KKK), called simply the Katipunan, which had

8272-612: Was invited to Cavite to mediate between Aguinaldo's rebels, the Magdalo , and their rivals the Magdiwang , both chapters of the Katipunan. There he became embroiled in discussions whether to replace the Katipunan with an insurgent government of the Cavite rebels' design. This internal dispute led to the Tejeros Convention and an election in which Bonifacio lost his position and Emilio Aguinaldo

8366-412: Was killed in the Battle of Mactan . Forty-four years later, a Spanish expedition led by Miguel López de Legazpi left modern Mexico and began the Spanish conquest of the Philippines in the late 16th century. Legazpi's expedition arrived in the Philippines in 1565, a year after an earnest intent to colonize the country, which was during the reign of Philip II of Spain , whose name has remained attached to

8460-493: Was later called the Seven Years' War . British forces occupied Manila from 1762 to 1764, however they were unable to extend their conquest outside of Manila as the Filipinos stayed loyal to the remaining Spanish community outside Manila. Spanish colonial forces kept the British confined to Manila. Catholic Archbishop Manuel Rojo , who had been captured by the British, executed a document of surrender on October 30, 1762, giving

8554-486: Was opposed for a number of reasons, including economic potential, security, and the desire to continue religious conversion in the islands and the surrounding region. The Philippines survived on an annual subsidy provided by the Spanish Crown, which averaged 250,000 pesos and was usually paid through the provision of 75 tons of silver bullion being sent from Spanish America on the Manila galleons . Financial constraints meant

8648-404: Was under British occupation and was being administered as a British colony. Consequently, no specific provision was made for the Philippines. Instead they fell under the general provision that all other lands not otherwise provided for be returned to the Spanish Crown. As industrialization spread throughout Europe and North America in the 19th century, demands for raw materials increased. Although

8742-568: Was underway. With the completion of the Philippine referendum of 1599, Spain could be said to have established legitimate sovereignty over the Philippines. During the initial period of colonialization, Manila was settled by 1,200 Spanish families. In Cebu City , at the Visayas, the settlement received a total of 2,100 soldier-settlers from New Spain, beginning Mexican settlement in the Philippines . Spanish forces included soldiers from elsewhere in New Spain, many of whom deserted and intermingled with

8836-417: Was unprecedented in modern times. His example was followed by other Philippine presidents , and by the time of Diosdado Macapagal 's term in the 1960s, it had regained its status as formal wear. Ferdinand Marcos , in particular, wore barong tagalog at almost every occasion. In 1975, Marcos issued a decree for the barong tagalog, along with the baro't saya , to become the official national attire. June 5 to 11

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