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136-466: Intimate Apparel Group: Swimwear Group: Distribution: The Warnaco Group, Inc. was an American textile/clothing corporation which designed, sourced, marketed, licensed , and distributed a wide range of underwear , sportswear , and swimwear worldwide. Its products were sold under several brand names including Calvin Klein , Speedo , Chaps , Warner's, and Olga. On 31 October 2012,
272-571: A "subjective study of string vests under hot/dry conditions" in the (British) Canal Zone of Egypt . For four weeks in July and August, as temperatures rose to 37C, men from the 1st Battalion of the Royal Warwickshire Regiment were made to wear three different types of vest underneath their bush jackets. In every case the men reported that string vests kept them cool and reduced "dragging or sticking" between clothes and skin from sweat. However, at
408-577: A Mesh T-Shirt , Mattel Barbie ' s Earring Magic Ken doll, E-kids , Andy Capp , Rab C. Nesbitt , Jim Royle , Wallace in The Wrong Trousers , Madonna , and Kylie Minogue ' s Fever US cover artwork. English brands include Cockney Finestyle , Crystal , and Pendeen . "In 1955 the War Office ordered tests to be conducted on the garment. That summer, the Ministry of Supply ran
544-537: A bra that fits properly. Scientific studies show that the current system of bra sizing may be inaccurate. Manufacturers cut their bras differently, so, for example, two 34B bras from two companies may not fit the same person. Customers should pay attention to which sizing system is used by the manufacturer. The main difference is in how cup sizes increase, by 2 cm or 1 inch (= 2.54 cm, see below). Some French manufacturers also increase cup sizes by 3 cm. Unlike dress sizes, manufacturers do not agree on
680-786: A button flap in the front. Medieval people wearing only tunics, without underpants, can be seen on works like The Ass in the School by Pieter Bruegel the Elder , in the Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry by Limbourg Brothers , or in the Grimani Breviary: The Month of February by Gerard Horenbout . In 2012, findings in Lengberg Castle , in Austria , showed that lace and linen brassiere-like garments, one of which greatly resembled
816-481: A company operated by Ida Rosenthal , a Jewish immigrant from Russia, developed the brassiere and introduced modern cup sizes for bras. Modern men's underpants were largely an invention of the 1930s. On 19 January 1935, Coopers Inc. sold the world's first briefs in Chicago. Designed by an "apparel engineer" named Arthur Kneibler, briefs dispensed with leg sections and had a Y-shaped overlapping fly. The company dubbed
952-406: A correct cup size may be able to find a correct fit using a method adopted by plastic surgeons. Using a flexible tape measure, position the tape at the outside of the chest, under the arm, where the breast tissue begins. Measure across the fullest part of the breast, usually across the nipple, to where the breast tissue stops at the breast bone. Conversion of the measurement to cup size is shown in
1088-417: A countersuit accusing Klein of trademark libel for not only maligning Warnaco but also Calvin Klein's own products. The suit was settled in 2001 and sealed with a "fashionista air kiss" on the steps in front of a New York courthouse. While the agreement remains confidential, some of the terms have been made public. Warnaco was able to retain its Calvin Klein licenses, but Calvin Klein was able to regain some of
1224-415: A country, one study found that the bra size label was consistently different from the measured size. As a result of all these factors, about 25% of women have a difficult time finding a properly fitted bra, and some women choose to buy custom-made bras due to the unique shape of their breasts. On 21 November 1911, Parisienne Madeleine Gabeau received a United States patent for a brassiere with soft cups and
1360-424: A heavy amount of sewing. It is very component intensive. Obtaining the correct size is complicated by the fact that up to 25% of women's breasts display a persistent, visible breast asymmetry, which is defined as differing in size by at least one cup size. For about 5% to 10% of women, their breasts are severely different, with the left breast being larger in 62% of cases. Minor asymmetry may be resolved by wearing
1496-411: A high level of consumer awareness. Undergarment Underwear , underclothing , or undergarments are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. They serve to keep outer clothing from being soiled or damaged by bodily excretions , to lessen the friction of outerwear against the skin, to shape
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#17328558376201632-479: A manager at the global Kurt Salmon management consulting firm that specializes in the apparel and retail businesses, said that making bras is complex: Bras are one of the most complex pieces of apparel. There are lots of different styles, and each style has a dozen different sizes, and within that there are a lot of colors. Furthermore, there is a lot of product engineering. You've got hooks, you've got straps, there are usually two parts to every cup, and each requires
1768-405: A metal band that supported and separated the breasts . To avoid the prevailing fashion that created a single "monobosom", her design provided: "...that the edges of the material d may be carried close along the inner and under contours of the breasts, so as to preserve their form, I employ an outlining band of metal b which is bent to conform to the lower curves of the breast." The term "cup"
1904-453: A month-to-month basis, but they will individually change their volume by a different amount ... Some girls will change less than 10% and other girls can change by as much as 20%." Would it be better not to wear a bra at all then? "... In fact there are very few advantages in wearing existing bras. Having a bra that's generally supportive would have significant improvement particularly in terms of stopping them going south ...The skin
2040-767: A new fitting. Bra experts recommend that women, especially those whose cup sizes are D or larger, get a professional bra fitting from the lingerie department of a clothing store or a specialty lingerie store. However, even professional bra fitters in different countries including New Zealand and the United Kingdom produce inconsistent measurements of the same person. There is significant heterogeneity in breast shape, density, and volume. As such, current methods of bra fitting may be insufficient for this range of chest morphology. A 2004 study by Consumers Reports in New Zealand found that 80% of department store bra fittings resulted in
2176-511: A number of terms. Underclothes , underclothing and underwear are formal terms, while undergarments may be more casually called, in Australia, Reg Grundys ( rhyming slang for undies ) and Reginalds , and, in the United Kingdom, smalls (from the earlier smallclothes ) and (historically) unmentionables . In the United States, women's underwear may be known as delicates due to
2312-403: A padded bra, but severe cases of developmental breast deformity — commonly called "Amazon's Syndrome" by physicians — may require corrective surgery due to morphological alterations caused by variations in shape, volume, position of the breasts relative to the inframammary fold , the position of the nipple-areola complex on the chest, or both. Obtaining the correct size is further complicated by
2448-406: A person should try going up in cup size. Similarly a band might feel too loose if the cup is too big. It is possible to test whether a bra band is too tight or too loose by reversing the bra on her torso so that the cups are at the back and then check for fit and comfort. Generally, if the wearer must continually adjust the bra or experiences general discomfort, the bra is a poor fit and she should get
2584-513: A pocket for holding small items. Over the upper part of their bodies, both medieval men and women usually wore a close-fitting shirt-like garment called a chemise in France, or a smock or shift in England. The forerunner of the modern-day shirt, the chemise was tucked into a man's braies, under his outer clothing. Women wore a chemise underneath their gowns or robes , sometimes with petticoats over
2720-414: A poor fit. However, because manufacturer's standards widely vary, women cannot rely on their own measurements to obtain a satisfactory fit. Some bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on and learning to recognize a properly fitting bra is the best way to determine a correct bra size, much like shoes . A correctly fitting bra should meet the following criteria: One method to confirm that
2856-626: A product of the fibers of the Mexican Ixtle plant. By 1876, this new, more flexible design had grown in popularity so much so that the company moved its manufacturing operations to Bridgeport , CT , where approximately 1,200 people were employed to produce approximately 6,000 corsets daily. In 1883, Harper's Bazaar advertised the four most popular corsets in America as Dr. Warner's models The brothers claimed patents and trademarks on "health corset" and they had international manufacturing. The success of
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#17328558376202992-434: A prominent physician gave up his Cortlandville, New York , practice to begin a new career on the medical lecturing circuit, specializing in women's health issues. Dr. Warner lectured about the harmful effects of the rigid steel-boned corsets of the time. After seeing how little influence his lectures had on women's attitudes towards fashion, he returned to his New York home and began a more aggressive approach to fighting
3128-411: A retailer offering the widest possible selection of bra sizes and brands. If the straps dig into the shoulder, leaving red marks or causing shoulder or neck pain, the bra band is not offering enough support. If breast tissue overflows the bottom of the bra, under the armpit, or over the top edge of the bra cup, the cup size is too small. Loose fabric in the bra cup indicates the cup size is too big. If
3264-522: A selling point. By the end of the 1910s, Chalmers Knitting Company split the union suit into upper and lower sections, effectively inventing the modern undershirt and drawers. Women wore lacier versions of this basic duo known as the camisole and tap pants. In 1912, the US had its first professional underwear designer. Lindsay "Layneau" Boudreaux, a French immigrant, established the short-lived panty company Layneau. Though her company closed within one year, it had
3400-461: A separate piece of cloth, or "yoke", sewn to the front of the garment, and tightness of fit was adjusted by means of ties on the sides. This design proved so popular that it began to supplant the union suit in popularity by the end of the war. Rayon garments also became widely available in the post-war period. In the 1920s, manufacturers shifted emphasis from durability to comfort. Union suit advertisements raved about patented new designs that reduced
3536-477: A settlement in its three-year-long investigation of Warnaco and its auditing firm, PricewaterhouseCoopers . The investigation stemmed from an overstatement of $ 145 million worth of inventory on Warnaco's 1998 Form 10-K . The SEC alleged that Warnaco knew about this overstatement when they released a press statement lauding the company's "record results" for its fourth quarter and fiscal year ending 1998. This overstatement would force Warnaco to restate its earnings for
3672-512: A shirt for trapping air close to the skin which would provide insulation. In 1896, under the trade name Aertex, a cellular cloth based on the same principle was patented. It was later called a "Fishnet Tank Top", a Mesh Marina , and a "mesh shirt" and used for Bruno: Delicious Journeys Through America for the Purpose of Making Heterosexual Males Visibly Uncomfortable in the Presence of a Gay Foreigner in
3808-411: A significant impact on many levels. Boudreaux showed the world that an American woman could establish and run a company, and she also caused a revolution in the underwear industry. In 1913, a New York socialite named Mary Phelps Jacob created the first modern brassiere by tying two handkerchiefs together with ribbon. Jacob's original intention was to cover the whalebone sticking out of her corset, which
3944-449: A single standard. British bras currently range from A to LL cup size (with Rigby&Peller recently introducing bras by Elila which go up to US-N-Cup), while most Americans can find bras with cup sizes ranging from A to G. Some brands (Goddess, Elila) go as high as N, a size roughly equal to a British JJ-Cup. In continental Europe, Milena Lingerie from Poland produces up to cup R. Larger sizes are usually harder to find in retail outlets. As
4080-455: A stiffened decorative bodice worn on top of another bodice stiffened with buckram , reeds, canes, whalebone or other materials. These were not the small-waisted, curved corsets familiar from the Victorian era , but straight-lined stays that flattened the bust. Men's braies and hose were eventually replaced by simple cotton, silk or linen drawers, which were usually knee-length trousers with
4216-536: A strong link between obesity and inaccurate back measurement. They concluded that " obesity , breast hypertrophy , fashion and bra-fitting practices combine to make those women who most need supportive bras the least likely to get accurately fitted bras." One issue that complicates finding a correctly fitting bra is that band and cup sizes are not standardized, but vary considerably from one manufacturer to another, resulting in sizes that only provide an approximate fit. Women cannot rely on labeled bra sizes to identify
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4352-410: A tiny (" wasp ") waist came to be seen as a symbol of beauty, and the corsets were stiffened with whalebone or steel to accomplish this. While "tight lacing" of corsets was not a common practice except among a minority of women, which sometimes led to a woman needing to retire to the fainting room , the primary use of a corset was to create a smooth line for the garments to effect the fashionable shape of
4488-461: A top manufacturer of union suits, which were common until the 1930s. Textile technology continued to improve, and the time to make a single union suit dropped from days to minutes. Meanwhile, designers of women's undergarments relaxed the corset. The invention of new, flexible but supportive materials allowed whalebone and steel bones to be removed. The emancipation or liberty bodice offered an alternative to constricting corsets and, in Australia and
4624-434: A voluntary consensus of sizes exists, there is much confusion to the 'true' size of clothing. As a result, bra measurement can be considered an art and a science. Online shopping and in-person bra shopping experiences may differ because online recommendations are based on averages and in-person shopping can be completely personalized so the shopper may easily try on band sizes above and below her between measured band size. For
4760-454: Is inaccurate so often as to be useless. Add to this the many different styles of bras and the lack of standardization between brands, and one can see why finding a comfortable, well-fitting bra is more a matter of educated guesswork, trial, and error than of precise measurements. The use of the cup sizing and band measurement systems has evolved over time and continues to change. Experts recommend that women get fitted by an experienced person at
4896-428: Is more than 10 cm, then the average is chosen for calculating the cup size. A number of reports, surveys and studies in different countries have found that between 80% and 85% of women wear incorrectly fitted bras. In November 2005, Oprah Winfrey produced a show devoted to bras and bra sizes, during which she talked about research that eight out of ten women wear the wrong size bra. Studies have revealed that
5032-418: Is one of the most complicated articles of clothing to make. A typical bra design has between 20 and 48 parts, including the band, hooks, cups, lining, and straps. Major retailers place orders from manufacturers in batches of 10,000. Orders of this size require a large-scale operation to manage the cutting, sewing and packing required. Constructing a properly fitting brassiere is difficult. Adelle Kirk, formerly
5168-467: Is passed between the legs and then around the waist. Archaeologists have found the remains of such loincloths made of leather dating back 7,000 years. The ancient Hawaiian malo was of this form, as are several styles of the Japanese fundoshi . Another form is usually called a cache-sexe : a triangle of cloth is provided with strings or loops, which are used to fasten the triangle between the legs and over
5304-407: Is then pulled tight while remaining horizontal and parallel to the floor. The measurement in inches is then rounded to the nearest even number for the band size. As of March 2018 , Kohl's uses this method for its online fitting guide. This method begins the same way as the underbust +0 method, where a measuring tape is pulled tight around the torso under the bust while remaining horizontal. If
5440-459: Is what gives the breasts their support." In 2010, the most common bra size sold in the UK was 36D. In 2004, market research company Mintel reported that bust sizes in the United Kingdom had increased from 1998 to 2004 in younger as well as older consumers, while a more recent study showed that the most often sold bra size in the US in 2008 was 36D. Researchers ruled out increases in population weight as
5576-458: Is without prejudice to the positions of the parties as to the meaning of the license terms. When Linda Wachner forcibly took over the reins of Warnaco, she reduced the company's debt by 35% within four years. After the mid-1990s acquisition spree, Wachner led the clothing powerhouse once again to the brink of collapse. It was under her management that in 1995 Warnaco failed to make the Fortune 500 for
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5712-562: The 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta , GA . By 1991, Warnaco's lingerie division had license agreements with Valentino, Ungaro, Scaasi, Bob Mackie , Victoria's Secret and Fruit of the Loom . The menswear division produced shirts, sweaters, neckties and other accessories under names including Christian Dior , Hathaway, Chaps by Ralph Lauren , and Jack Nicklaus . At the end of 1991, the company produced $ 195.4 million in gross profits and Linda Wachner
5848-423: The brassiere - a move which helped boost revenues to $ 12.6 million by 1920. The Jazz Age and Flapper movement of the 1920s saw the desire for less restrictive fashions. Women had a more care-free attitude toward life and ditched the corset and pantaloons in favor of breast-binding bandeaus and step-in panties . This was a difficult time for the company. Sales through the decade declined and efforts made by
5984-570: The crotch . Henry VIII of England began padding his codpiece, which caused a spiralling trend of larger and larger codpieces that only ended by the end of the 16th century. It has been speculated that the King may have had the sexually transmitted disease syphilis , and his large codpiece may have included a bandage soaked in medication to relieve its symptoms. Henry VIII also wanted a healthy son and may have thought that projecting himself in this way would portray fertility. Codpieces were sometimes used as
6120-404: The genitals and often buttocks. Terms for specific undergarments are shown in the table below . Underwear is worn for a variety of reasons. They keep outer garments from being soiled by perspiration , urine , semen , pre-seminal fluid , feces , vaginal discharge , and menstrual blood . Women's brassieres provide support for the breasts , and men's briefs serve the same function for
6256-527: The male genitalia . A corset may be worn as a foundation garment to provide support for the breasts and torso, as well as to alter a woman's body shape . For additional support and protection when playing sports, men often wear more tightly fitting underwear, including jockstraps and jockstraps with cup pocket and protective cup . Male dancers sometimes wear dance belts for support and modesty while wearing tights. Women may wear sports bras which provide greater support, thus increasing comfort and reducing
6392-408: The 18th century were laced behind and drew the shoulders back to form a high, round bosom and erect posture. Colored stays were popular. With the relaxed country styles of the end of the century, stays became shorter and were unboned or only lightly boned, and were now called corsets. As tight waists became fashionable in the 1820s, the corset was again boned and laced to form the figure. By the 1860s,
6528-544: The 1930s brought the corset back, now called the " girdle ". The garment lacked the whalebone and metal supports and usually came with a brassiere (now usually called a "bra") and attached garters. In 1933, Henrik Natvig Brun, a commandant in the Norwegian army, invented the first Brynje thermal String vest [ no ] , as Norwegian King’s Guard cold season clothing, in development since 1921 , repurposing two fishing nets, previously used to catch herring, and made into
6664-399: The 1930s that enabled adjustment of bands. Prior to the widespread use of bras, the undergarment of choice for Western women was a corset . To help women meet the perceived ideal female body shape , corset and girdle manufacturers used a calculation called hip spring , the difference between waist and hip measurement (usually 10–12 inches (25–30 cm)). The band measurement system
6800-446: The 1970s. By the middle of the decade, Warnaco had become a multi-national clothing conglomerate with almost 20 divisions. Despite the company's diverse portfolio, however, Warnaco was struggling to turn a profit. Recognizing the potential failure, Field handed management of the company over to James Walker and Philip Lamoureux. Walker was named CEO in 1977. Lamoureux and Walker turned the company around quickly and in 1982, Lamoureux left
6936-507: The American cups in 1933, and resisted using cup sizes for its products until 1948. The Sears Company finally applied cup sizes to bras in its catalogue in the 1950s. However, though various manufacturers used the same descriptions of bra sizes (e.g., A to D, small large, etc.), there was no standardisation of what these descriptions actually measured, so that each company had its own standards. Multiple hook and eye closures were introduced in
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#17328558376207072-624: The Calvin Klein brand accounted for 75% of the Warnaco Group's $ 2 billion net sales in 2009. At the end of 2010's second quarter (ending 3 July), Warnaco reported that all three divisions — Intimates, Swimwear and Sportswear — contributed to its 14% growth in net revenues to $ 519.3 million and industry analysts expect continued growth. In August 2010 The Motley Fool named Warnaco one of its Top 10 Values in Consumer Durables, citing
7208-414: The Calvin Klein brand name by producing merchandise that was not authorized or approved by Calvin Klein and that Warnaco was distributing Calvin Klein jeanswear through unapproved discount outlets, such as warehouse clubs , like Costco and BJ's . Klein , himself appeared on CNN 's Larry King Live shortly after the suit was filed and stated these practices have been taking place since Warnaco acquired
7344-582: The Company generated approximately 45% of the Company's revenues during Fiscal 2009. Brand names the Company licenses for a term generated approximately 55% of its revenues during Fiscal 2009. Owned brand names and brand names licensed for extended periods (at least through 2044) accounted for over 89% of the Company's net revenues in Fiscal 2009. The Company's highly recognized brand names have been established in their respective markets for extended periods and have attained
7480-550: The Roman period indicate that women (primarily in an athletic context, whilst wearing nothing else) sometimes wore strophiae (breastcloths) or brassieres made of soft leather, along with subligacula which were either in the form of shorts or loincloths. Subligacula were also worn by men. The fabric used for loincloths may have been wool , linen or a linsey-woolsey blend. Only the upper classes could have afforded imported silk. The loincloth continues to be worn by people around
7616-513: The UK, the liberty bodice became a standard item for girls as well as women. Men's underwear also continued to be developed. Benjamin Joseph Clark, a migrant to Louisiana from New Jersey , opened a venture capitalist firm named Bossier in Bossier Parish . One product manufactured by his firm was tightly fitting boxer shorts that resembled modern underwear. Though the company was bankrupt by
7752-455: The UK, they sold at the rate of 3,000 a week, given the moniker Y-fronts there. In this decade, companies also began selling buttonless drawers fitted with an elastic waistband. These were the first true boxer shorts , which were named for their resemblance to the shorts worn by professional fighters . Scovil Manufacturing introduced the snap fastener at this time, which became a popular addition to various kinds of undergarments. Women of
7888-674: The Warners' designs had made the brothers millionaires and in 1894 they retired and turned control of the company over to De Ver's son, D.H. and the Warner Brothers partnership was changed to a corporation. The turn of the century saw even greater success for the company in the hands of the founders' sons. New products included the rust-proof corset and combination corset and hose-supporter. By 1913 sales reached $ 7 million and profits averaged $ 700,000 annually Two years later, The Warner Brothers Corset Co. paid $ 1,500 for Mary Phelps Jacob's patent for
8024-620: The body, and to provide concealment or support for parts of it. In cold weather, long underwear is sometimes worn to provide additional warmth. Special types of undergarments have religious significance. Some items of clothing are designed as undergarments, while others, such as T-shirts and certain types of shorts, are appropriate both as underwear and outerwear. If made of suitable material or textile , some underwear can serve as nightwear or swimwear , and some undergarments are intended for sexual attraction or visual appeal. Undergarments are generally of two types, those that are worn to cover
8160-469: The bra is the best fit has been nicknamed the Swoop and Scoop . After identifying a well-fitting bra, the woman bends forward (the swoop ), allowing her breasts to fall into the bra, filling the cup naturally, and then fastening the bra on the outermost set of hooks. When the woman stands up, she uses the opposite hand to place each breast gently into the cup (the scoop ), and she then runs her index finger along
8296-423: The case of dry suits, the insulation value of the undergarments is selected to match the expected water temperature and the level of activity for the planned dive or water activity. Some items of clothing are designed exclusively as underwear, while others such as T-shirts and certain types of shorts are suitable both as underwear and as outer clothing. The suitability of underwear as outer clothing is, apart from
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#17328558376208432-577: The chance of damage to the ligaments of the chest during high-impact exercises such as jogging. In cold climates, underwear may constitute an additional layer of clothing helping to keep the wearer warm. Underwear may also be used to preserve the wearer's modesty – for instance, some women wear camisoles and slips ( petticoats ) under clothes that are sheer . Conversely, some types of underwear can be worn for sexual titillation, such as edible underwear or crotchless panties. Undergarments are worn for insulation under space suits and dry suits . In
8568-454: The chemise. Elaborately quilted petticoats might be displayed by a cut-away dress, in which case they served as a skirt rather than an undergarment. During the 16th century, the farthingale was popular. This was a petticoat stiffened with reed or willow rods so that it stood out from a woman's body like a cone extending from the waist. Corsets also began to be worn about this time. At first they were called pairs of bodies, which refers to
8704-526: The companies named in the suit. The workers further claimed that they were forced to sign "shadow contracts" waiving basic human rights, including the freedom to date or marry. And they emphasize the poor working and living conditions for workers. The suits allege they work and live in crowded, unsanitary factories and shanty-like housing compounds that are in flagrant violation of federal law. Almost immediately, Warnaco denied any wrongdoing, stating that they hire subcontractors that strictly follow U.S. law and in
8840-448: The company announced that it would be acquired by PVH for $ 2.8 billion in cash and stock. The deal gave PVH more control of the Calvin Klein clothing brand as it will unite Calvin Klein formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines. It was acquired by PVH in Feb 2013. In November 2023, PVH sold the Warners and Olga brands to Basic Resources, Inc. In the late 19th century, Dr. Lucien Warner,
8976-658: The company approximately $ 25 million. In 2008, the company also ceased operations under the Michael Kors and Nautica labels, citing a collective $ 1.7 million in losses from the two brands. In further efforts to boost its swimwear line, Speedo renewed its contract with 8-time Olympic gold medalist Michael Phelps , extending his endorsement through the next Summer Games . Warnaco provides private label swimsuits for Victoria's Secret. In order to strengthen its "core intimates" group, (Warner's, Olga, Calvin Klein Underwear),
9112-458: The company shed private label GJM and high-end lingerie brand Lejaby. Since emerging from bankruptcy, Warnaco Group's annual income Reports have shown steady growth. Calvin Klein continues to be a strong performer for the company in both the jeans and intimates sectors. As of 2 January 2010, the company operated over 1,000 Calvin Klein retail stores worldwide as well as three online stores. It also licenses or franchises an additional 624 stores and
9248-459: The company that revolutionized corsetry revolutionized the brassiere by assigning letters to various cup sizes. The ABC Alphabet Bra set the standard for bra sizing that is still used today. By the early 1940s, the company was profitable again, bringing in $ 1 million by 1947. Sales of bras, girdles, and the cross-promotion of the Merry Widow line of corselets with the 1952 Lana Turner movie of
9384-441: The company to adapt to these changing times were met with little success. The Great Depression of the 1930s was difficult on the clothing industry and Warner was no exception to this financial suffering. Even as the boyish figure of the previous decade's Flappers fell out of style and curves made a return to fashion, Warner struggled. By 1932, the company had lost more than $ 1 million. The company's troubles were only made worse by
9520-485: The company's foothold in the sportswear market. Warner Brothers went public in 1961 and was soon generating revenues in excess of $ 100 million. In 1966, it acquired another large clothing maker, the White Stag Manufacturing Company . The Warner Brothers Company changed its name to Warnaco, Inc. in 1968, and continued to grow its business exponentially through various mergers and acquisitions throughout
9656-466: The company. A year later, Walker died unexpectedly. That year brought in $ 28.3 million. However, some of the cost-cutting measures implemented by Lamoureux and Walker — including cutbacks in research and in advertising — hurt the company more than helping it. In 1986, after being away from the company for nine years, former lingerie division president Linda J. Wachner engineered a $ 550 million hostile takeover . Wachner had previously risen through
9792-598: The creative control he had ceded in the original license. The agreement opens: IT IS HEREBY AGREED by and between Calvin Klein and Warnaco as follows: 1. Calvin Klein and Warnaco agree to work together for their mutual benefit under their existing license and other agreements, except to the extent that those agreements are modified by the terms of this Settlement Agreement. 2. a. Beginning in calendar year 2002, Warnaco will limit its annual gross sales of Calvin Klein jeanswear to mass merchandisers (defined as, for example, KMart, Wal-Mart and Target) and/or warehouse clubs so that
9928-466: The cup size increases, the labeled cup size of different manufacturers' bras tend to vary more widely in actual volume. One study found that the label size was consistently different from the measured size. Even medical studies have attested to the difficulty of getting a correct fit. Research by plastic surgeons has suggested that bra size is imprecise because breast volume is not calculated accurately: The current popular system of determining bra size
10064-478: The cup size, the bigger the variation. Surveys of bra sizes tend to be very dependent on the population studied and how it was obtained. For instance, one U.S. study reported that the most common size was 34B, followed by 34C, that 63% were size 34 and 39% cup size B. However, the survey sample was drawn from 103 Caucasian student volunteers at a Midwest U.S. university aged 18–25, and excluded pregnant and nursing women. Bra-wearers who have difficulty calculating
10200-407: The day, using the optical illusion created by the corset and garments together to achieve the look of a smaller waist. By the 1880s, the dress reform movement was campaigning against the alleged pain and damage to internal organs and bones caused by tight lacing . Inez Gaches-Sarraute invented the "health corset", with a straight-fronted busk made to help support the wearer's muscles. The corset
10336-439: The design the "Jockey" since it offered a degree of support that had previously only been available from the jockstrap. Jockey briefs proved so popular that over 30,000 pairs were sold within three months of their introduction. Coopers, renaming their company Jockey decades later, sent its "Mascul-line" plane to make special deliveries of "masculine support" briefs to retailers across the US. In 1938, when jockeys were introduced in
10472-449: The division's inventory costing control system was inadequate to ensure the accuracy of Warnaco's books and records and failed to ensure that proper internal controls were in place." Stanley P. Silverstein, who was Warnaco's general counsel at the time was also named, as he, too, signed off on the report. PricewaterhouseCoopers settled with the SEC and agreed to pay a $ 2.4 million penalty. Wachner
10608-481: The early 20th century, it had some influence on men's underwear design. Underwear advertising first made an appearance in the 1910s. The first underwear print advertisement in the US appeared in The Saturday Evening Post in 1911 and featured oil paintings by J. C. Leyendecker of the "Kenosha Klosed Krotch". Early underwear advertisements emphasized durability and comfort, and fashion was not regarded as
10744-670: The end of the experiment, only two of the men agreed to continue wearing the vest. The report concluded that "seemingly, all vests were to be regarded with suspicion" and that "efficient indoctrination" would be required to encourage men to wear them. Back home no such indoctrination was required. Worn by miners and builders, the string vest, like the flat cap and donkey jacket , became a garment associated with working class grit." During World War II, elastic waistbands and metal snaps gave way once again to button fasteners due to rubber and metal shortages. Undergarments were harder to find as well, since soldiers abroad had priority to obtain them. By
10880-403: The end of the war, Jockey and Hanes remained the industry leaders in the US, but Cluett, Peabody and Company made a name for itself when it introduced a preshrinking process called " Sanforization ", invented by Sanford Cluett in 1933, which came to be licensed by most major manufacturers. Brassiere measurement Bra size (also known as brassiere measurement or bust size ) indicates
11016-419: The explanation and suggested it was instead likely due to more women wearing the correct, larger size. Bra retailers recommend several methods for measuring band and cup size. These are based on two primary methods, either under the bust or over the bust, and sometimes both. Calculating the correct bra band size is complicated by a variety of factors. The American National Standards Institute states that while
11152-427: The exposed legs. Women's bloomers also became much shorter. The shorter bloomers became looser and less supportive as the boyish flapper look came into fashion. By the end of the decade, they came to be known as "step-ins", very much like modern panties but with wider legs. They were worn for the increased flexibility they afforded. The garter belt was invented to keep stockings from falling. In 1928, Maidenform ,
11288-418: The fact that the size and shape of women's breasts change, if they experience menstrual cycles , during the cycle and can experience unusual or unexpectedly rapid growth in size due to pregnancy, weight gain or loss, or medical conditions. Even breathing can substantially alter the measurements. Some women's breasts can change shape by as much as 20% per month: "Breasts change shape quite consistently on
11424-494: The first time in nearly 30 years. Time magazine referred to Warnaco's reacquisition of Authentic Fitness as "financial gymnastics that helped prop up Wachner's bank account but ultimately loaded Warnaco's balance sheet with an extra $ 600 million in debt."" Between 1998 and 2000, Warnaco's stock had lost about 75% of its value, yet Wachner continued to draw a base salary of $ 2.7 million with an additional $ 12.5 million in bonuses and private stock. Upon her ouster as CEO, Wachner
11560-602: The garment factories — located in Saipan , Northern Mariana Islands , a United States Commonwealth — regularly employed immigrant laborers who were duped into paying a "recruiting fee" of up to $ 7,000 so they can work in The United States. Upon arrival in Saipan, the workers are forced to surrender their passports and work off the money they owe, in effect making them indentured servants . These factories produce clothing for
11696-527: The genitals. Egyptian king Tutankhamun (1341 BC – 1323 BC) was found buried with numerous linen loincloths of this style. An alternate form is more skirt -like: a cloth is wrapped around the hips several times and then fastened with a girdle . Men are said to have worn loincloths in ancient Greece and Rome , though it is unclear whether Greek women wore undergarments. There is some speculation that only slaves wore loincloths and that citizens did not wear undergarments beneath their chitons . Mosaics of
11832-477: The height of its popularity in the later 1880s, and went out of fashion in the 1890s. Women dressed in crinolines often wore drawers under them for modesty and warmth. Another common undergarment of the late 19th century for men, women, and children was the union suit . Invented in Utica, New York and patented in 1868, this was a one-piece front-buttoning garment usually made of knitted material with sleeves extending to
11968-627: The ills caused by the corset. In 1873, he designed a corset that provided both the shape desired by women and the flexibility required to allow some movement and reduce injuries caused by previous designs. The next year, Lucien Warner and his brother Dr. Ira De Ver Warner gave up their medical practices and founded Warner Brothers Corset Manufacturers. Dr. Warner's Coraline Health Corsets, as they were marketed, were made up of two pieces of cloth which were laced or clasped together. These revolutionary undergarments also featured shoulder straps and more flexible boning and lateral bust supports made of Coraline,
12104-408: The indoor or outdoor climate, largely dependent on societal norms, fashion, and the requirements of the law. If made of suitable material, some underwear can serve as nightwear or swimsuits . Undergarments can also have religious significance: The loincloth is the simplest form of underwear; it was probably the first undergarment worn by human beings. In warmer climates, the loincloth was often
12240-428: The inside top edge of the bra cup to make sure her breast tissue does not spill over the edges. Experts suggest that women choose a bra band that fits well on the outermost hooks. This allows the wearer to use the tighter hooks on the bra strap as it stretches during its lifetime of about eight months. The band should be tight enough to support the bust, but the straps should not provide the primary support. A bra
12376-518: The license for Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein retail stores through its takeover of Designer Holdings, Inc. The license for Calvin Klein children's clothing was purchased from Commerce Clothing Warnaco closed out the 1990s by selling off its underperforming Hathaway label and reacquiring Authentic Fitness. The company's success peaked in 1998 with $ 1.95 billion in revenue. Soon after, however, sales dropped rapidly and — saddled with debt from all
12512-453: The license three years prior. Calvin Klein had sought to regain control of its jeanswear license. Warnaco's initial response to the suit, which King read on the air, called the complaint "without merit." The statement further accused Calvin Klein of "throwing stones at Warnaco," in a "desperate attempt... to cover up and distract focus from the highly deteriorated business state of CKI". In response to Klein's television appearance, Warnaco filed
12648-470: The measurement is even, 4 is added to calculate the band size. If it is odd, 5 is added. Kohl's used this method in 2013. The "war on plus four" was a name given to a campaign (circa 2011) against this method, with underbust +0 supporters claiming that the then-ubiquitous +4 method fails to fit a majority of women. Underbust +4 method generally only applies to the US and UK sizes. Currently, many large U.S. department stores determine band size by starting with
12784-413: The measurement taken underneath the bust similar to the aforementioned underbust +0 and underbust +4 methods. A sizing chart or calculator then uses this measurement to determine the band size. Band sizes calculated using this method vary between manufacturers. A measuring tape is pulled around the torso under the armpit and above the bust. Because band sizes are most commonly manufactured in even numbers,
12920-418: The modern bra, date back to hundreds of years before it was thought to exist. The invention of the spinning jenny machines and the cotton gin in the second half of the 18th century made cotton fabrics widely available. This allowed factories to mass-produce underwear, and for the first time, large numbers of people began buying undergarments in stores rather than making them at home. Women's stays of
13056-415: The most common mistake made by women when selecting a bra was to choose too large a back band and too small a cup, for example, 38C instead of 34E, or 34B instead of 30D. The heavier a person's build, the more difficult it is to obtain accurate measurements, as measuring tape sinks into the flesh more easily. In a study conducted in the United Kingdom of 103 women seeking mammoplasty , researchers found
13192-486: The nearly 4,000 striking workers — who were organized as part of the International Textile Workers of America union — accepted the management's offer of a 12.5% raise and eight-hour days. One worker was reported injured during this strike. Connecticut newspaper The Day reported "a Miss Jones...who is believed to have objected to the [negotiation] proceedings, is said to have been roughly handled by
13328-428: The number of buttons and increased accessibility. Most of these experimental designs had to do with new ways to hold closed the crotch flap common on most union suits and drawers. A new woven cotton fabric called nainsook gained popularity in the 1920s for its durability. Retailers also began selling preshrunk undergarments. Also in the 1920s, as hemlines of women's dresses rose, women began to wear stockings to cover
13464-419: The only clothing worn (effectively making it an outer garment rather than an undergarment), as was doubtless its origin, but in colder regions, the loincloth often formed the basis of a person's clothing and was covered by other garments. In most ancient civilizations, this was the only undergarment available. A loincloth may take three major forms. The first, and simplest, is simply a long strip of material that
13600-580: The other strikers, and to have had her clothing almost torn from her." No one was arrested for this attack. Early in 1999, Warnaco was one of 18 companies initially named in three class-action lawsuits filed under US Federal RICO statutes. The lawsuits were filed by several labor and human rights groups on behalf of more than 50,000 workers from China , the Philippines , Bangladesh and Thailand . Ultimately 26 U.S. companies and 23 Saipan garment factories would be named as defendants. The suits claimed that
13736-410: The percentage of such sales does not exceed ***% of Warnaco's total gross sales of Calvin Klein jeanswear in 2002 (and the percentage of sales other than excess and close-outs to such channels does not exceed ***% of total gross sales) and ***% in 2003 and thereafter (and the percentage of sales other than excess and close-outs to such channels does not exceed ***% of total gross sales). ***.This provision
13872-429: The personal deterioration of CEO, D. H. Warner, who was known as a depraved womanizer. After his wife died in 1931, D.H. continued to finance his debauchery with company profits and drink to excess before dying in 1934 at the age of 66. Control of the company was handed to his son-in-law, John Field. With the corset all but extinct by the mid-1930s, the company's new leadership focused on developing new products. In 1937,
14008-459: The ranks at Max Factor , making the declining cosmetics company profitable again within just two years. She wasted no time at Warnaco and right away went to work streamlining the company's fifteen divisions into just two categories: menswear and underwear. In 1990, Wachner formed a new corporation, Authentic Fitness Corp. , for the purpose of separating Warnaco's activewear lines including Speedo and White Stag ski clothing. Wachner's intention
14144-587: The recent acquisitions and mergers — in 2000, the company lost $ 200 million. In 2001, Warnaco filed for Chapter 11 protection and Wachner was fired. On 4 February 2003, Warnaco emerged from bankruptcy. As part of its restructuring, the company sold its White Stag trademark to Wal-Mart and later decided to exit the designer swimwear market and focus on strengthening its Speedo products. The company sold off Ocean Pacific to Iconix Brand Group after just three years of ownership. Also sold, were Catalina , Anne Cole and Cole of California brands. This netted
14280-464: The recommended washing machine cycle or because they are, simply put, delicate. Women's undergarments collectively are also called lingerie . They also are called intimate clothing and intimates . An undershirt ( vest in the United Kingdom) is a piece of underwear covering the torso , while underpants (often called pants in the United Kingdom), drawers , and undershorts cover
14416-716: The same name , led to record profits. A partnership between DuPont and Warners lead to the 1959 invention of Lycra , which allowed for new designs in shapewear and more snug-fitting bras. The late 1950s also saw Warner Brothers diversify its product lineup to include menswear and accessories, as well as sportswear for both men and women. Distribution was expanded by sales in large chain department stores such as JC Penney and Sears . The company also expanded production, opening manufacturing facilities in South America and Europe . In 1960, Warner Brothers Company purchased major American shirt manufacturer C.F. Hathaway strengthening
14552-475: The side and wearing a properly fitted bra, because this practice assumes the current bra fits correctly. The measurements are made in the same units as the band size, either inches or centimetres. The cup size is calculated by subtracting the band size from the over-the-bust measurement. Cup sizes vary from one country to another. For example, a U.S. H-cup does not have the same size as an Australian, even though both are based on measurements in inches. The larger
14688-414: The size characteristics of a bra . While there is a number of bra sizing systems in use around the world, the bra sizes usually consist of a number, indicating the size of the band around the woman's torso , and one or more letters that indicate the breast cup size. Bra cup sizes were invented in 1932 while band sizes became popular in the 1940s. For convenience, because of the impracticality of determining
14824-598: The size dimensions of each breast, the volume of the bra cup, or cup size , is based on the difference between band length and over-the-bust measurement. Manufacturers try to design and manufacture bras that correctly fit the majority of women, while individual women try to identify correctly fitting bras among different styles and sizing systems. The shape, size, position, symmetry, spacing, firmness, and sag of individual women's breasts vary considerably. Manufacturers' bra size labelling systems vary from country to country because no international standards exist. Even within
14960-491: The so-called Gibson Girls who enjoyed pursuits such as cycling and tennis. This new female athleticism helped push the corset out of style. The other major factor in the corset's demise was the fact that metal was globally in short supply during the First World War. Steel-laced corsets were dropped in favor of the brassiere. Meanwhile, World War I soldiers were issued button-front shorts as underwear. The buttons attached to
15096-470: The spring of 1999, was among the first companies to settle. By 2004 all remaining companies – with the exception of Levi Strauss whose case was ultimately dismissed – had settled without admitting to any wrongdoing. The Saipan garment workers had won a collective $ 20 million as well as better oversight and improved working conditions. On 11 May 2004, the Securities and Exchange Commission announced
15232-476: The stock's low price-to-earnings multiples as well as its low risk and its potential for growth. During the summer of 1915, approximately 1,300 women and girls employed by The Warner Brothers Corset Company factory in Bridgeport, Connecticut , walked off the job . The strike , which was one of 179 strikes recorded that year, was in favor of eight-hour work days and a 20% increase in wages. On 18 August that year,
15368-401: The strict sense. Braies were usually fitted with a front flap that was buttoned or tied closed. This codpiece allowed men to urinate without having to remove the braies completely. Codpieces were also worn with hose when very short doublets – vest- (UK: waistcoat-) like garments tied together in the front and worn under other clothing – were in fashion, as early forms of hose were open at
15504-415: The suit, the SEC specifically names William Finklestein, who was vice president and CFO at the time of the allegation, claiming "As CFO, Finkelstein directed the offsetting of cash against debt. He also reviewed and signed the quarterly report." Linda Wachner was also named in the suit as she was president and CEO at the time. In its press release announcing the settlement of the suit, the commission stated "at
15640-468: The system in use today. Before long, these cup sizes got nicknames: egg cup, tea cup, coffee cup and challenge cup, respectively. Two other companies, Model and Fay-Miss (renamed in 1935 as the Bali Brassiere Company ), followed, offering A, B, C and D cup sizes in the late 1930s. Catalogue companies continued to use the designations Small, Medium and Large through the 1940s. Britain did not adopt
15776-489: The three prior years. The commission complained Warnaco "falsely portrayed the inventory write-down as a part of the company's write-off of deferred start-up costs under a new accounting pronouncement." The complaints filed by the SEC claim PwC's role in this alleged cover-up was that they caught the error during an audit but they "failed to object" to Warnaco's "mischaracterization" of this error and that PwC incorporated this mischaracterization into their own audit report. In
15912-511: The time of the Renaissance , braies had become shorter to accommodate longer styles of chausses. Chausses were also giving way to form-fitting hose , which covered the legs and feet. Fifteenth-century hose were often particolored, with each leg in a different-colored fabric or even more than one color on a leg. However, many types of braies, chausses and hose were not intended to be covered up by other clothing, so they were not actually underwear in
16048-425: The time she approved and signed the 1998 annual report, Wachner knew or should have known that the restatement of the company's financial results was caused by material flaws in the cost accounting and internal control systems at one of the company's largest divisions and was not related to the write-up of deferred start-up or start-up related costs." The commission also found that "Wachner knew or should have known that
16184-632: The torso and those that are worn to cover the waist and legs, although there are also underclothes which cover both. Different styles of underwear are generally worn by females and males. Undergarments commonly worn by females today include bras and panties ( knickers in British English ), while males often wear boxer briefs or boxer shorts . Items worn by both sexes include T-shirts, sleeveless shirts (also called singlets, tank tops, A-shirts, or vests), classic briefs , bikini briefs , thongs , G-strings and T-fronts . Undergarments are known by
16320-423: The underwires poke the breast under the armpit or if the bra's center panel does not lie flat against the sternum, the cup size is too small. If the band rides up the torso at the back, the band size is too big. If it digs into the flesh, causing the flesh to spill over the edges of the band, the band is too small. If the band feels tight, this may be due to the cups being too small; instead of going up in band size
16456-424: The waist with buttons or laces. The crotch was left open for hygiene reasons. As skirts became fuller from the 1830s, women wore many petticoats to achieve a fashionable bell shape. By the 1850s, stiffened crinolines and later hoop skirts allowed ever wider skirts to be worn. The bustle , a frame or pad worn over the buttocks to enhance their shape, had been used off and on by women for two centuries, but reached
16592-437: The wearer must round to the closest even number. Bra-wearers can calculate their cup size by finding the difference between their bust size and their band size. The bust size, bust line measure, or over-bust measure is the measurement around the torso over the fullest part of the breasts, with the crest of the breast halfway between the elbow and shoulder, usually over the nipples, ideally while standing straight with arms to
16728-412: The woman with a large cup size and a between band size, they may find their cup size is not available in local stores so may have to shop online where most large cup sizes are readily available on certain sites. Others recommend rounding to the nearest whole number. There are several possible methods for measuring the bust. A measuring tape is pulled around the torso at the inframammary fold . The tape
16864-574: The world – it is the traditional form of undergarment in many Asian societies, for example. In various, mainly tropical, cultures, the traditional male dress may still consist of only a single garment below the waist or even none at all, with underwear as optional, including the Indian dhoti and lungi , or the Scottish kilt . In the Middle Ages , western men's underwear became looser fitting. The loincloth
17000-412: The wrists and legs down to the ankles. It had a buttoned flap (known colloquially as the "access hatch", "drop seat", or "fireman's flap") in the back to ease visits to the toilet. The union suit was the precursor of long johns , a two-piece garment consisting of a long-sleeved top and long pants possibly named after American boxer John L. Sullivan who wore a similar garment in the ring. The jockstrap
17136-480: Was created by U.S. bra manufacturers just after World War II . The underwire was first added to a strapless bra in 1937 by André, a custom-bra firm. Patents for underwire-type devices in bras were issued in 1931 and 1932, but were not widely adopted by manufacturers until after World War II when metal shortages eased. In the 1930s, Dunlop chemists were able to reliably transform rubber latex into elastic thread. After 1940, "whirlpool", or concentric stitching,
17272-523: Was denied her contractual $ 25 million golden parachute . She sued the company and in 2002 she accepted $ 3.5 million in new Warnaco stock and $ 200,000 in cash, which she said she would donate to cancer research. Wachner stayed on the board of directors until her term expired in 2003. Adapted from the Warnaco 2009 Annual Report : [Warnaco Group, Inc.] owns and licenses a portfolio of highly recognized brand names. The trademarks owned or licensed in perpetuity by
17408-480: Was found to have caused the oversight and was ordered to pay $ 1.3 million in disgorgement . Finkelstein was ordered to pay $ 189,464 in disgorgement as well as a civil penalty of $ 75,000. He was barred for four years from serving as an officer or director of a public company. Silverstein was censured and ordered to pay $ 165,772. On 30 May 2000, Calvin Klein, Inc. filed suit against Warnaco Group, Inc. and its CEO, Linda Wachner. The suit alleged that Warnaco had diluted
17544-638: Was invented in 1874, by C. F. Bennett of a Chicago sporting goods company, Sharp & Smith, to provide comfort and support for bicycle jockeys riding the cobblestone streets of Boston, Massachusetts . In 1897 Bennett's newly formed Bike Web Company patented and began mass-producing the Bike Jockey Strap. By the early 20th century, the mass-produced undergarment industry was booming, and competition forced producers to come up with all sorts of innovative and gimmicky designs to compete. The Hanes company emerged from this boom and quickly established itself as
17680-504: Was named Business Woman of the Year by Fortune . The remainder of the decade saw Wachner take her company on a buying spree, acquiring designer labels Calvin Klein Underwear, Body Slimmers (purchased from Nancy Ganz, wife of Mitchell S. Steir ), ABS by Allan Schwartz, as well as private label sleepwear manufacturers GJM Group, French lingerie company Lejaby-Euralis. Warnaco also acquired
17816-694: Was not used to describe bras until 1916 when two patents were filed. In October 1932, S.H. Camp and Company was the first to use letters of the alphabet (A, B, C and D) to indicate cup size, although the letters represented how pendulous the breasts were and not their volume. Camp's advertising in the February 1933 issue of Corset and Underwear Review featured letter-labeled profiles of breasts. Cup sizes A to D were not intended to be used for larger-breasted women. In 1935, Warner's introduced its Alphabet Bra with cup sizes from size A to size D. Their bras incorporated breast volume into its sizing, and continues to be
17952-518: Was replaced by loose, trouser -like clothing called braies , which the wearer stepped into and then laced or tied around the waist and legs at about mid-calf. Wealthier men often wore chausses as well, which only covered the legs. Braies (or rather braccae ) were a type of trouser worn by Celtic and Germanic tribes in antiquity and by Europeans subsequently into the Middle Ages. In the later Middle Ages they were used exclusively as undergarments. By
18088-451: Was to transform Speedo from swimwear label to retail concept. Authentic fitness went public in June 1992 and opened its first Speedo Authentic retail store five months later In 1993, Authentic Fitness had a licensing deal with Oscar de la Renta, Ltd. and had acquired swimwear labels Cole, Catalina, and Anne Cole — each from bankruptcies . That same year, Wachner secured a sponsorship deal for
18224-435: Was used to shape the cup structure of some designs. The synthetic fibres were quickly adopted by the industry because of their easy-care properties. Since a brassiere must be laundered frequently, easy-care fabric was in great demand. For best results, the breasts should be measured twice: once when standing upright, once bending over at the waist with the breasts hanging down. If the difference between these two measurements
18360-423: Was usually worn over a thin shirt-like shift of linen or cotton or muslin . Skirt styles became shorter and long drawers called pantalettes or pantaloons kept the legs covered. Pantalettes originated in France in the early 19th century, and quickly spread to Britain and America. Pantalettes were a form of leggings or long drawers. They could be one-piece or two separate garments, one for each leg, attached at
18496-545: Was visible through her sheer dress. Jacob began making brassieres for her family and friends, and news of the garment soon spread by word of mouth. By 1914, Jacob had a patent for her design and was marketing it throughout the US. Although women had worn brassiere-like garments in years past, Jacob's was the first to be successfully marketed and widely adopted. By the end of the decade, trouser-like " bloomers ", which were popularized by Amelia Jenks Bloomer (1818–1894) but invented by Elizabeth Smith Miller , gained popularity with
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