Misplaced Pages

#693306

42-625: Sole Valley applies to the Vermiglio Valley, the east-west aligned valley of the river Noce and its sidevalleys, among which the Peio Valley that heads to the Ortler . The rest of the valley from Ossana to Mostizzolo is simply called Sole Valley. Some of the towns in the valley are Vermiglio , Peio , Dimaro , Croviana and Malè (the main town). The Sole Valley heads to the Tonale Pass , on

84-593: A distinctive double peak . There are differing views in the literature as to whether the Kleinglockner is a subpeak or a separate main summit. Due to its low topographic prominence and isolation as well as its close links in climbing history, it is counted as part of that of the Grossglockner in historic publications; however, in view of its separate climbing routes it is counted as an independent peak in mountaineering literature. The Obere Glocknerscharte between

126-604: A popular ski mountaineering tour. The Grossglockner became Austria's highest mountain, when the South Tyrolean Ortler region had to be ceded to the Kingdom of Italy according to the 1919 Treaty of Saint-Germain , which promoted its reputation as a tourist attraction . Mass tourism was decisively promoted by the scenic High Alpine Road ( Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße ) running from Heiligenblut to Bruck in Salzburg with

168-464: A popular venue for Alpinists like Hermann and Adolf Schlagintweit , who all followed the route of the first ascent. By the mid 19th century, the developing Alpine tourism began to alter the traditional agriculture economy in the Heiligenblut area. Therefore, the people of Kals tried to lay out a straight ascent from the western side, which however was not reached until Julius von Payer explored

210-484: A request of Archduke Johann of Austria , who felt strongly that after the first ascent of the Großglockner (3,798 m) in 1800, the highest mountain in his brother's empire ought to be climbed. The archduke ordered Johannes Nepomuk Gebhard, a "mountain official" and topographer from Salzburg , to climb the mountain with locals. The first five attempts failed and Gebhard was ready to give up, when Pichler responded to

252-548: A telescope from the valley, and again in September 1805 with a huge torch. Only after the torch had been seen burning at night was the accomplishment acknowledged. The route Pichler and his men (two brothers named Hell and an unnamed hunter from Langtaufers) took in 1805 was the currently still popular East ridge ("Hintergrat", literally "back-ridge") route. In 1834, at the age of 70, Pichler would make his fifth and final ascent, guiding Professor Karl Thurwieser  [ de ] to

294-628: Is capped by a glacier on the northwest flank and has a long north ridge that ends at the village of Gomagoi and separates the valleys of Trafoi and Sulden . The South ridge leads to the Hochjoch (3527 m) on the main ridge of the Ortler Alps that forms the border of the Province of Sondrio and South Tyrol. Going west on this main ridge are the Thurwieserspitze (3652) and Trafoier Wall (3565 m), while to

336-515: Is not mentioned before the first expedition in 1799. According to the scholar Belsazar Hacquet (1735–1815), Glockner is possibly derived from German: Glocke (" bell "), referring to the mountain's characteristic shape. It may also be a Germanised version of the Alpine Slavic word Klek ("mountain"), as maintained in the Slovene name Veliki Klek . The Grossglockner lies on the border between

378-676: Is part of the larger Glockner Group of the Hohe Tauern range, situated along the main ridge of the Central Eastern Alps and the Alpine divide . The Pasterze , Austria's most extended glacier , lies on the Grossglockner's eastern slope. The characteristic pyramid -shaped peak actually consists of two pinnacles, the Großglockner and the Kleinglockner (3,770 m or 12,370 ft, from German: groß 'big', klein 'small'), separated by

420-446: Is the highest mountain in the Alps east of the Ortler range, about 175 km (109 mi) away, and, after Mont Blanc , has the second greatest topographic isolation of all mountains in the Alps. Even its topographic prominence , at 2,424 m (7,953 ft), is the second highest after Mont Blanc in the entire Alps (see the list of Alpine peaks by prominence ). That makes it one of

462-504: The Adlersruhe rock at 3,454 m (11,332 ft)) was informed. Dissatisfied, he invited another, even bigger expedition the next year. On 28 July 1800, 62 people, among them the pedagogue Franz Michael Vierthaler and the botanist David Heinrich Hoppe , started again into the Leitertal valley. Four peasants and carpenters (the "Glockners" and two others who are not known) did a track in

SECTION 10

#1732845271694

504-652: The Campo Carlo Magno , a pass that leads to the Rendena Valley . In the east the region ends at Mostizzolo , where the main valley bends south to Non Valley before joining the valley of the Adige north of Trento . 46°18′N 10°48′E  /  46.3°N 10.8°E  / 46.3; 10.8 Ortler Ortler ( German pronunciation: [ˈɔrtlɐ] ; Italian : Ortles [ˈɔrtles] ) is, at 3,905 m (12,812 ft) above sea level,

546-577: The Eastern Alps from 1779 to 1781 and published an itinerary in 1783, describing the Glokner mountain and stating that it had not been climbed yet. He estimated the mountain's height with converted 3,793 m (12,444 ft) and left an engraving illustrating Grossglockner and Pasterze, the first known depiction of the mountain. Inspired by Hacquet's book and the first ascent of the Mont Blanc in 1786,

588-669: The First World War , being on the border of Italy and the Austrian Empire. The advantage of owning the highest point was very important. The Austrian troops had quickly occupied the highest peaks, and the Italian troops' main goal, for four years, was to dislodge them from the positions. In the mid-1990s, a mountain guide discovered two guns that had been stationed very near the top of the Ortler but had been hidden by snow ever since. The discovery

630-673: The Glocknerscharte col . The name Glocknerer is first documented in a 1561 map designed by the Viennese cartographer Wolfgang Lazius . The denotation Glogger is mentioned in a 1583 description of the Tyrolean Kals legal district, then referring to the whole ridge south of the Alpine main chain. In the 1760s, the Atlas Tyrolensis listed a Glockner Berg , the prefix Gross- ("great")

672-455: The Gurk prince-bishop Count Franz Xaver of Salm (1749–1822) together with his vicar general Sigismund Ernst Hohenwart (1745–1825) and Baron Franz Xaver von Wulfen (1728–1805) started efforts for a Grossglockner expedition. They engaged two peasants from Heiligenblut as mountain guides to do the first explorations for an ascent through the Leitertal valley, which is the side of Grossglockner with

714-555: The Obere Glocknerscharte and climb the Grossglockner summit. Hautzendorfer had to be persuaded to venture the step and administered the last rites in advance. The two "Glockners" are usually identified as the brothers Joseph ( Sepp ) and Martin Klotz , however, this surname is not listed in the Heiligenblut parish register. A local peasant named Sepp Hoysen is documented as a member of the second Grossglockner expedition in 1802, and

756-851: The Stüdlgrat , named after the Prague Alpinist Johann Stüdl (1839–1925), runs from the Grossglockner away to the southwest. Together with its extension, the Luisengrat , it separates the West Face and the Teischnitzkees glacier at its foot from the South Face and its Ködnitzkees glacier. A couloir known as the Pillwaxrinne crosses the South Face below the Obere Glocknerscharte; most of

798-682: The Austrian states of Carinthia and Tyrol ( East Tyrol ). The peak is part of the Glocknerkamm ridge in the Glockner Group that branches off the main chain of the Alps at Eiskögele , heading in a southeasterly direction and forming the boundary between the East Tyrolean municipality of Kals am Großglockner, about 8 km (5.0 mi) in the southwest at 1,324 m (4,344 ft), and Carinthian Heiligenblut , about 12 km (7.5 mi) in

840-632: The Northwest Ridge, part of the main Glockner crest, which runs over the Grögerschneid , 3,660 m (12,010 ft), and the ridge elevations of Glocknerhorn , 3,680 m (12,070 ft), and Teufelshorn , 3,677 m (12,064 ft), to the Untere Glocknerscharte , 3,598 m (11,804 ft), which connects to the 3,721 m (12,208 ft) high Glocknerwand . A prominent ridge,

882-633: The South Face lies east of this gully below the Kleinglockner. The east side of the Kleinglockner, the Glocknerleitl , is glaciated to just below the summit and is continued by the Kleinglocknerkees and Hofmannskees before reaching the Pasterze. The history of the climbs started with French-born natural scientist Belsazar Hacquet , from 1773 professor of anatomy at the Academy of Ljubljana . He travelled

SECTION 20

#1732845271694

924-668: The South ridge from the Hochjoch followed in 1875, two couloirs on the East face (the Minnigerode and Schück couloir) were opened in 1878-79 and the two steep Northeast ridges ( Marlet and Rothböck ridge) were conquered in 1889 and 1909, respectively. Members of the Pinggera family were involved in most of these ascents. The 1,200 m high ice route on the Ortler north face, longest in the Eastern Alps,

966-656: The Southeast are the Monte Zebrù (3740 m) and the majestic Königspitze (3859 m). From nearby mountains in the northeast the impressive lineup of Königspitze, Zebru and Ortler is known as “das Dreigestirn” (the three heavenly bodies). The Ortler was first climbed by Josef Pichler  [ de ] ("Pseirer-Josele"), a chamois hunter from St. Leonhard in Passeier , and his companions Johann Leitner and Johann Klausner from Zell am Ziller on 27 September 1804. The ascent had been

1008-424: The expedition. They suffered with bad weather and a first effort failed, but on 25 August 1799 Hohenwart and at least four other people, including the two "Glockners", reached—again—the Kleinglockner, where they installed one of the first summit crosses (one of the main goals of the church expedition). Hohenwart's reports did not tell clearly that they had not touched the highest point but Bishop Salm (who had reached

1050-501: The first expedition up the steep glaciated Northeast Face, chopping 2,500 steps into the Pallavicinirinne in an ice climbing master stroke not repeated for 23 years. In 1879 Count Pallavicini dedicated a new iron summit cross on the occasion of the silver wedding of Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria and Empress Elisabeth ; both had visited Heiligenblut and walked to the present-day Franz-Josefs-Höhe viewpoint in 1865. The cross

1092-798: The highest mountain in the Eastern Alps outside the Bernina Range . It is the main peak of the Ortler Range . It is the highest point of the Southern Limestone Alps , of South Tyrol in Italy, of Tyrol overall, and, until 1919, of the Austrian-Hungarian empire . In German the mountain is commonly referred to as "König Ortler" (King Ortler), like in the unofficial hymn of South Tyrol, the Bozner Bergsteigerlied . The massive mountain

1134-476: The least ice (people feared glaciers in these times). These valiant men, called "Glockners" in the records, did more than they were ordered to do—and probably reached the Kleinglockner summit on 23 July 1799. One month later the bishop's expedition started: a mountain hut (the first Salm Hut) had been built and the path in the Leitertal valley was prepared so that the bishop could use a horse to reach it. 30 people, among them Salm, Hohenwart and Wulfen, were part of

1176-514: The most independent peaks in the Alps. The view from the Grossglockner summit is one of the farthest of all mountains in the Eastern Alps. It ranges out to 220 km (140 mi) or, taking account of atmospheric refraction , almost 240 km (150 mi). Its view over more than 150,000 km (58,000 sq mi) of the Earth's surface reaches as far as the Upper Swabian Plateau in

1218-566: The north faces of Königspitze, Zebrù and Ortler all in one day. Extreme skiing started early in the Ortler mountains, with Heini Holzer  [ de ] descending the Schück couloir in 1971 and the Minnigerode couloir in 1975. On June 24, 1983, Andreas Orgler  [ de ] skied down the North face. The Ortler Alps were one of the main battlegrounds between Austrian and Italian troops in

1260-762: The northeast at 1,291 m (4,236 ft). This boundary is also the watershed between the Kals Valley and its Teischnitz and Ködnitz side valleys on the Tyrolean side and the Möll Valley with the Pasterze glacier on the Carinthian side. The region around the mountain has formed part of the Grossglockner-Pasterze special protected area within the High Tauern National Park since 1986. The Glockner

1302-627: The northwest, to Regensburg and the peaks of the Bohemian Forest in the north, to Ortler in the west, to the Padan Plain in the south, and to Triglav and the Totes Gebirge range in the east. The Grossglockner rock summit, due to its high Alpine, heavily glaciated appearance, is often compared to the mountains of the Western Alps . Together with the Kleinglockner to the southeast it forms

Val di Sole - Misplaced Pages Continue

1344-554: The other side of the pass (and in the same direction as the Vermiglio Valley) begins the valley of the river Oglio which flows to Edolo . In the northwest the region is bordered by the Ortler group with the national park Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio , in the southwest by the Adamello group with the nature reserve Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta . In the southern part of the region is the ski resort Madonna di Campiglio , just over

1386-453: The prize money offered for reaching the peak. Pichler and his friends took a difficult, and because of avalanche danger until recently disused, route over the northwest face from Trafoi. (The route was re-opened in 2004. ) Upon their return, the men were not believed on their words alone. Gebhard sent Pichler onto the mountain twice more, first in August 1805 with a flag that could be observed with

1428-617: The ridge between Glöcknerleitl and Ködnitzkees in 1863. Johann Stüdl had a via ferrata erected along the southwestern ridge the next year and the Stüdlhütte erected at its foot in 1868. Already in 1869, most expeditions to the summit started in Kals. The first winter ascent of the Grossglockner was made on January 2, 1875 by William Adolf Baillie Grohman , a member of the Alpine Club . In 1876 Count Pallavicini and his guide Hans Tribusser undertook

1470-567: The snow, had installed fixed ropes at some steeper sections up to the end of the Glocknerleitl, and even built a second refuge, called Hohenwarte Hut. The vanguard reached the Kleinglockner peak, however, according to the expedition records by the Dellach priest Franz Joseph Horasch (Orasch), only the four guides and Mathias Hautzendorfer, the local priest of the Rangersdorf parish, were able to cross

1512-414: The summit) and in 1806, however, he himself never climbed beyond the Adlersruhe rock. The climbing of the Grossglockner was also described by the botanist Josef August Schultes , who explored the massif together with Count Apponyi in 1802. No further ascents were made during the Napoleonic Wars , the huts decayed and were plundered by locals. In the following Vormärz era, however, the mountain became

1554-458: The surveyor Ulrich Schiegg mentioned one Martin Reicher as "Glockner" guide. The peasants and several other members of the expedition (among them Schiegg and his young apprentice Valentin Stanič , who climbed Mt. Watzmann for the first time some weeks later) did the ascent again the next day and finally installed the summit cross and a barometer on the Grossglockner summit. Bishop Salm undertook two more ascents in 1802 (with Hohenwart reaching

1596-503: The top. The first time the Ortler was climbed via the easiest and currently normal route, the North ("Tabaretta") ridge, was more recently, in July 1865, as the approach is rather lengthy. In 1875 a hut was erected 3,029m high on the North ridge, to break up the climb in two steps. It was named the Payer house, after Julius von Payer , who had mapped the Ortler Alps between 1865–1868 and had climbed 50 of its peaks with Johann Pinggera  [ de ] as his guide. The first ascent of

1638-427: The two peaks, at 3,766 m (12,356 ft), is the highest col in Austria, from which a couloir up to 55° in gradient and 600 m (2,000 ft) in altitude descends down to the Glocknerkees glacier, called Pallavicinirinne after the Austrian mountaineer Alfred von Pallavicini (1848–1886). It runs northeastwards and borders on the Northeast and North Faces of the Grossglockner. The latter faces are bounded by

1680-402: Was first climbed in June 1931 by Hans Ertl and Franz Schmid and the remote Southwest face in 1934. The North face was soloed first in 1963 by Dieter Drescher who had also added some first winter ascents to his name, including a traverse of Königspitze, Monte Zebrù, and Ortler in February 1975. On August 31, 1981, Reinhard Patscheider  [ de ] achieved the amazing feat of climbing

1722-413: Was installed on 2 October 1880. Pallavicini also had the Archduke John Hut erected at the former Adlersruhe resting place of Bishop Salm, today the highest situated mountain hut in Austria. The Austrian Alpine Club built the new Salmhütte and the Glocknerhaus along the alpine route from Heiligenblut. A first ascent by skiing was made in 1909 and the circumnavigation of the massif soon became

Val di Sole - Misplaced Pages Continue

1764-421: Was kept secret until the 200th anniversary of the first ascent in 2004. The guns are now on display in a museum in Trafoi . Gro%C3%9Fglockner The Großglockner ( German : Großglockner [ˈɡʁoːsˌɡlɔknɐ] ), or just Glockner , is, at 3,798 metres above the Adriatic (12,461 ft), the highest mountain in Austria and highest mountain in the Alps east of the Brenner Pass . It

#693306