92-418: An Oxford shoe is characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp , a feature termed "closed lacing". This contrasts with Derbys , or bluchers , which have shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp. Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather, but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for formal, uniform, or casual wear. On the basis of function and
184-451: A museum . It still stands today and is a popular roadside attraction. Shoes also play an important role in the fairy tales Cinderella and The Red Shoes . In the movie adaption of the children's book The Wonderful Wizard of Oz , a pair of red ruby slippers play a key role in the plot. The 1985 comedy The Man with One Red Shoe features an eccentric man wearing one normal business shoe and one red shoe that becomes central to
276-447: A Shoe . This story tells about an old woman living in a shoe with a lot of children. In 1948, Mahlon Haines , a shoe salesman in Hallam, Pennsylvania , built an actual house shaped like a work boot as a form of advertisement. The Haines Shoe House was rented to newlyweds and the elderly until his death in 1962. Since then, it has served as an ice cream parlor, a bed and breakfast , and
368-420: A drying and softening operation, and may include splitting, shaving, dyeing , whitening or other methods. For some leathers, tanners apply a surface coating, called "finishing". Finishing operations can include oiling, brushing, buffing, coating, polishing, embossing, glazing , or tumbling , among others. Leather can be oiled to improve its water resistance. This currying process after tanning supplements
460-586: A fabric upper portion, and often includes fabric laces that tie around the ankle. The term is French and comes from the esparto grass. The shoe originated in the Catalonian region of Spain as early as the 13th century, and was commonly worn by peasants in the farming communities in the area. New styles began to develop during the Song dynasty in China, some of them resulting from the binding of women's feet, first used by
552-432: A flexible form that does not become putrid when rewetted. Many tanning methods and materials exist. The typical process sees tanners load the hides into a drum and immerse them in a tank that contains the tanning "liquor". The hides soak while the drum slowly rotates about its axis, and the tanning liquor slowly penetrates through the full thickness of the hide. Once the process achieves even penetration, workers slowly raise
644-531: A person with authority or wealth was often referred to as, "well-heeled". In 17th century France, heels were exclusively worn by aristocrats. Louis XIV of France outlawed anybody from wearing red high heels except for himself and his royal court. Eventually the modern shoe, with a sewn-on sole, was devised. Since the 17th century, most leather shoes have used a sewn-on sole. This remains the standard for finer-quality dress shoes today. Until around 1800, welted rand shoes were commonly made without differentiation for
736-623: A properly managed facility. A review of the total pollution load decrease achievable according to the United Nations Industrial Development Organization posts precise data on the abatement achievable through industrially proven low-waste advanced methods, while noting, "even though the chrome pollution load can be decreased by 94% on introducing advanced technologies, the minimum residual load 0.15 kg/t raw hide can still cause difficulties when using landfills and composting sludge from wastewater treatment on account of
828-536: A sacred person or place. In the Book of Exodus , Moses was instructed to remove his shoes before approaching the burning bush: Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest [is] holy ground. The removal of the shoe also symbolizes the act of giving up a legal right. In Hebrew custom, if a man chose not to marry his childless brother's widow , the widow removed her brother-in-law's shoe to symbolize that he had abandoned his duty. In Arab custom,
920-565: A shoe is recognizable, regardless of the specific style of footwear. All shoes have a sole , which is the bottom of a shoe, in contact with the ground. Soles can be made from a variety of materials, although most modern shoes have soles made from natural rubber , polyurethane , or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) compounds. Soles can be simple—a single material in a single layer—or they can be complex, with multiple structures or layers and materials. When various layers are used, soles may consist of an insole, midsole, and an outsole. The insole
1012-517: A soleless sandal known as a "Cleopatra", which did not provide any practical protection for the foot. The ancient Greeks largely viewed footwear as self-indulgent, unaesthetic and unnecessary. Shoes were primarily worn in the theater, as a means of increasing stature, and many preferred to go barefoot. Athletes in the Ancient Olympic Games participated barefoot—and naked. Even the gods and heroes were primarily depicted barefoot, as well as
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#17328519968171104-513: A special purpose sport shoe into a general use shoe. Traditionally, shoes have been made from leather , wood or canvas , but are increasingly being made from rubber , plastics , and other petrochemical -derived materials. Globally, the shoe industry is a $ 200 billion a year industry. 90% of shoes end up in landfills, because the materials are hard to separate, recycle or otherwise reuse. The earliest known shoes are sagebrush bark sandals dating from approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in
1196-441: A synthetic material like polyurethane. The outsole may comprise a single piece or may be an assembly of separate pieces, often of different materials. On some shoes, the heel of the sole has a rubber plate for durability and traction, while the front is leather for style. Specialized shoes will often have modifications on this design: athletic or so-called cleated shoes like soccer, rugby, baseball and golf shoes have spikes embedded in
1288-406: A thin sole and simple strap and be sold for a low cost. High fashion shoes made by famous designers may be made of expensive materials, use complex construction and sell for large sums of money. Some shoes are designed for specific purposes, such as boots designed specifically for mountaineering or skiing , while others have more generalized usage such as sneakers which have transformed from
1380-430: A variety of items, including clothing, footwear, handbags, furniture, tools and sports equipment, and lasts for decades. Leather making has been practiced for more than 7,000 years and the leading producers of leather today are China and India. Critics of tanneries claim that they engage in unsustainable practices that pose health hazards to the people and the environment near them. The leather manufacturing process
1472-499: A vast variety of materials. Ancient Egyptian sandals were made from papyrus and palm leaves. The Masai of Africa made them out of rawhide . In India they were made from wood. While thong sandals were commonly worn, many people in ancient times, such as the Egyptians , Hindus and Greeks , saw little need for footwear, and most of the time, preferred being barefoot. The Egyptians and Hindus made some use of ornamental footwear, such as
1564-628: A wet cloth or soaking the leather in water. Various treatments are available such as conditioners . Saddle soap is used for cleaning, conditioning, and softening leather. Leather shoes are widely conditioned with shoe polish . Due to its high resistance to abrasion and wind, leather found a use in rugged occupations. The enduring image of a cowboy in leather chaps gave way to the leather-jacketed and leather-helmeted aviator . When motorcycles were invented, some riders took to wearing heavy leather jackets to protect from road rash and wind blast; some also wear chaps or full leather pants to protect
1656-416: Is a process that stabilizes the proteins , particularly collagen , of the raw hide to increase the thermal, chemical and microbiological stability of the hides and skins, making it suitable for a wide variety of end applications. The principal difference between raw and tanned hides is that raw hides dry out to form a hard, inflexible material that, when rewetted, will putrefy , while tanned material dries to
1748-463: Is affected by the most elegant and precise machinery; while, as each operation is performed by one hand, so each shoe passes through twenty-five hands, who complete from the hide, as supplied by the currier, a hundred pairs of strong and well-finished shoes per day. All the details are performed by the ingenious application of the mechanic powers; and all the parts are characterised by precision, uniformity, and accuracy. As each man performs but one step in
1840-501: Is also considered unmannerly to cross the legs and display the soles of one's shoes during conversation. This insult was demonstrated in Iraq, first when Saddam Hussein 's statue was toppled in 2003, Iraqis gathered around it and struck the statue with their shoes. In 2008, United States President George W. Bush had a shoe thrown at him by a journalist as a statement against the war in Iraq. More generally, shoe-throwing or shoeing, showing
1932-534: Is also used for falconry jesses, soccer footwear, (e.g. Adidas Copa Mundial ) and boxing speed bags. Although originally raised for their feathers in the 19th century, ostriches are now more popular for both meat and leather. Ostrich leather has a characteristic "goose bump" look because of the large follicles where the feathers grew. Different processes produce different finishes for many applications, including upholstery, footwear, automotive products, accessories, and clothing. In Thailand , stingray leather
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#17328519968172024-411: Is called bating. Lipases are used in the degreasing operation to hydrolyze fat particles embedded in the skin. Amylases are used to soften skin, to bring out the grain, and to impart strength and flexibility to the skin. These enzymes are rarely used. The natural fibers of leather break down with the passage of time. Acidic leathers are particularly vulnerable to red rot , which causes powdering of
2116-405: Is divided into three fundamental subprocesses: preparatory stages, tanning, and crusting. A further subprocess, finishing, can be added into the leather process sequence, but not all leathers receive finishing. The preparatory stages are when the hide is prepared for tanning. Preparatory stages may include soaking, hair removal, liming , deliming , bating , bleaching , and pickling . Tanning
2208-493: Is estimated that most mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in a landfill . In the late 2000s, some shoemakers picked up on the issue and began to produce shoes made entirely from degradable materials , such as the Nike Considered. In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of $ 107.4 billion, in terms of revenue , and is expected to grow to $ 122.9 billion by the end of 2012. Shoe manufacturers in
2300-416: Is often added for comfort (to control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe) or health reasons (to help deal with differences in the natural shape of the foot or positioning of the foot during standing or walking). The outsole is the layer in direct contact with the ground. Dress shoes often have leather or resin rubber outsoles; casual or work-oriented shoes have outsoles made of natural rubber or
2392-452: Is one of the most exploited reptile species in the world in the leather trade. However, it is not endangered and while monitored, trade is legal in most South American countries. Kangaroo leather is used to make items that must be strong and flexible. It is the material most commonly used in bullwhips . Some motorcyclists favor kangaroo leather for motorcycle leathers because of its light weight and abrasion resistance. Kangaroo leather
2484-749: Is sometimes used for any more formal lace-up shoe, including the Blucher and Derby . In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt , a style common on boots . Oxford shoes are also known for their variation or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are commonly referred to styles. Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than those with open lacing (Bluchers/Derbys). A particular type of oxford shoe
2576-422: Is stitched between it and the sole, known as a welt . Most uppers have a mechanism, such as laces, straps with buckles, zippers, elastic, velcro straps, buttons, or snaps, for tightening the upper on the foot. Uppers with laces usually have a tongue that helps seal the laced opening and protect the foot from abrasion by the laces. Uppers with laces also have eyelets or hooks to make it easier to tighten and loosen
2668-444: Is the interior bottom of a shoe, which sits directly beneath the foot under the footbed (also known as sock liner). The purpose of the insole is to attach to the lasting margin of the upper, which is wrapped around the last during the closing of the shoe during the lasting operation. Insoles are usually made of cellulosic paper board or synthetic non woven insole board. Many shoes have removable and replaceable footbeds. Extra cushioning
2760-507: Is the wholecut oxford, its upper made from a single piece of leather with only a single seam at the back or in the rare exception no seams at all. Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland , where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle . However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University . This shoe style did not appear in North America until
2852-411: Is to support the heel of the foot. They are often made of the same material as the sole of the shoe. This part can be high for fashion or to make the person look taller, or flat for more practical and comfortable use. On some shoes the inner forward point of the heel is chiselled off, a feature known as a "gentleman's corner". This piece of design is intended to alleviate the problem of the points catching
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2944-545: Is used in wallets and belts. Stingray leather is tough and durable. The leather is often dyed black and covered with tiny round bumps in the natural pattern of the back ridge of an animal. These bumps are then usually dyed white to highlight the decoration. Stingray rawhide is also used as grips on Chinese swords, Scottish basket hilted swords, and Japanese katanas . Stingray leather is also used for high abrasion areas in motorcycle racing leathers (especially in gloves, where its high abrasion resistance helps prevent wear through in
3036-554: The Air Jordan line of sneakers designed by Nike for Basketball star Michael Jordan . In the Bible 's Old Testament , the shoe is used to symbolize something that is worthless or of little value. In the New Testament , the act of removing one's shoes symbolizes servitude. Ancient Semitic-speaking peoples regarded the act of removing their shoes as a mark of reverence when approaching
3128-686: The Fort Rock Cave in the US state of Oregon in 1938. The world's oldest leather shoe , made from a single piece of cowhide laced with a leather cord along seams at the front and back, was found in the Areni-1 cave complex in Armenia in 2008 and is believed to date to 3500 BC. Ötzi the Iceman 's shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, which pulled tight around
3220-520: The People's Republic of China account for 63% of production, 40.5% of global exports and 55% of industry revenue. However, many manufacturers in Europe dominate the higher-priced, higher value-added end of the market. As an integral part of human culture and civilization, shoes have found their way into our culture, folklore, and art. A popular 18th-century nursery rhyme is There was an Old Woman Who Lived in
3312-568: The hoplite warriors. They fought battles in bare feet and Alexander the Great conquered his vast empire with barefoot armies. The runners of Ancient Greece had also been believed to have run barefoot. The Romans , who eventually conquered the Greeks and adopted many aspects of their culture, did not adopt the Greek perception of footwear and clothing. Roman clothing was seen as a sign of power, and footwear
3404-565: The sisal plant were used to make twine for sandals in South America while the natives of Mexico used the Yucca plant. As civilizations began to develop, thong sandals (precursors to the modern flip-flop ) were worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in ancient Egyptian murals from 4000 BC. "Thebet" may have been the term used to describe these sandals in Egyptian times, possibly from
3496-455: The turnshoe method of construction, in which the upper was turned flesh side out, and was lasted onto the sole and joined to the edge by a seam. The shoe was then turned inside-out so that the grain was outside. Some shoes were developed with toggled flaps or drawstrings to tighten the leather around the foot for a better fit. Surviving medieval turnshoes often fit the foot closely, with the right and left shoe being mirror images. Around 1500,
3588-588: The 1800s. In the United States , Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to " Blucher -type". In France , Oxfords are known as Richelieu , or Molière in Belgium and Luxembourg. Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800. Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to
3680-589: The 1970s and 80s) are well known for wearing leather clothing. Extreme metal bands (especially black metal bands) and Goth rock groups have extensive black leather clothing. Leather has become less common in the punk community over the last three decades, as there is opposition to the use of leather from punks who support animal rights . Many cars and trucks come with optional or standard leather or "leather faced" seating. In countries with significant populations of individuals observing religions which place restrictions on material choices, vendors typically clarify
3772-628: The American funeral wreath. For example, empty shoes placed outside of a Greek home would tell others that the family's son has died in battle. At an observation memorializing the 10th anniversary of the September 11 attacks , 3,000 pairs of empty shoes were used to recognize those killed. The Shoes on the Danube Bank is a memorial in Budapest , Hungary . Conceived by film director Can Togay , he created it on
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3864-444: The bottom of trousers and was first observed in the 1930s. A heel is the projection at the back of a shoe which rests below the heel bone . The shoe heel is used to improve the balance of the shoe, increase the height of the wearer, alter posture or other decorative purposes. Sometimes raised, the high heel is common to a form of shoe often worn by women, but sometimes by men too. See also stiletto heel . The upper helps hold
3956-415: The century's end, the process had been almost completely mechanized, with production occurring in large factories. Despite the obvious economic gains of mass production , the factory system produced shoes without the individual differentiation that the traditional shoemaker was able to provide. In the 19th century Chinese feminists called for an end to foot binding, and a ban in 1902 was implemented. The ban
4048-615: The city Thebes . The Middle Kingdom is when the first of these thebets were found, but it is possible that it debuted in the Early Dynastic Period . One pair found in Europe was made of papyrus leaves and dated to be approximately 1,500 years old. They were also worn in Jerusalem during the first century of the Christian era. Thong sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from
4140-575: The cost to lighten leather, shoes of a paler shade were a symbol of wealth in the upper class. Often, the soles would be carved with a message so it would imprint on the ground. Cobblers became a notable profession around this time, with Greek shoemakers becoming famed in the Roman empire. A common casual shoe in the Pyrenees during the Middle Ages was the espadrille . This is a sandal with braided jute soles and
4232-426: The design for a riveting machine in 1853. His machine used an iron plate to push iron rivets into the sole. The process greatly increased the speed and efficiency of production. He also introduced the use of steam-powered rolling-machines for hardening leather and cutting-machines, in the mid-1850s. The sewing machine was introduced in 1846, and provided an alternative method for the mechanization of shoemaking. By
4324-464: The dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuine patent leather , suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned ( brogue ). The meaning of "Oxford" and "balmoral" may vary geographically. In the United States and Scotland, "Balmoral" is often synonymous with "Oxford". In the United States , "Oxford"
4416-552: The east bank of the Danube River with sculptor Gyula Pauer to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in Budapest during World War II . They were ordered to take off their shoes and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The memorial represents their shoes left behind on the bank. The basic anatomy of
4508-679: The event of an accident). For a given thickness, fish leather is typically much stronger due to its criss-crossed fibers. Leather produces some environmental impact, most notably due to: Estimates of the carbon footprint of bovine leather range from 65 to 150 kg of CO 2 equivalent per square meter of production. One ton of hide or skin generally produces 20 to 80 m of waste water, including chromium levels of 100–400 mg/L, sulfide levels of 200–800 mg/L, high levels of fat and other solid wastes, and notable pathogen contamination. Producers often add pesticides to protect hides during transport. With solid wastes representing up to 70% of
4600-582: The existence of such shoe is the finding of bone awls dating back to this period that could have made simple footwear. Another source of evidence is the study of the bones of the smaller toes (as opposed to the big toe), it was observed that their thickness decreased approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led archaeologists to deduce the existence of common rather than an occasional wearing of shoes as this would lead to less bone growth, resulting in shorter, thinner toes. These earliest designs were very simple, often mere "foot bags" of leather to protect
4692-501: The feet from rocks, debris, and cold. Many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the moccasin . These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or bison hides. Many moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, most Native Americans went barefoot . The leaves of
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#17328519968174784-452: The following grades: The term "genuine leather" does not describe a specific grade. The term often indicates split leather that has been extensively processed, and some sources describe it as synonymous with bicast leather, or made from multiple splits glued together and coated. In some countries, when it is the description on a product label the term means nothing more than "contains leather"; depending on jurisdiction, regulations limit
4876-615: The foot. The Jotunheimen shoe was discovered in August 2006: archaeologists estimate that this leather shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC, making it the oldest article of clothing discovered in Scandinavia. Sandals and other plant fiber based tools were found in Cueva de los Murciélagos in Albuñol in southern Spain in 2023, dating to approximately 7500 to 4200 BC, making them what are believed to be
4968-604: The human foot . Though the human foot can adapt to varied terrains and climate conditions, it is vulnerable, and shoes provide protection. Form was originally tied to function, but over time, shoes also became fashion items. Some shoes are worn as safety equipment, such as steel-toe boots , which are required footwear at industrial worksites. Additionally, shoes have often evolved into many different designs, such as high heels , which are most commonly worn by women during fancy occasions. Contemporary footwear varies vastly in style, complexity and cost. Basic sandals may consist of only
5060-494: The insignia and the higher up the boot went on the leg, the higher the rank of the soldier. There are references to shoes being worn in the Bible . In China and Japan, rice straws were used. Starting around 4 BC, the Greeks began wearing symbolic footwear. These were heavily decorated to clearly indicate the status of the wearer. Courtesans wore leather shoes colored with white, green, lemon or yellow dyes, and young woman betrothed or newly married wore pure white shoes. Because of
5152-432: The instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter- brogue ), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue). Shoe A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort
5244-638: The laces and to prevent the lace from tearing through the upper material. An aglet is the protective wrapping on the end of the lace. The vamp is the front part of the shoe, starting behind the toe, extending around the eyelets and tongue and towards back part of the shoe. Leather Leather is a strong, flexible and durable material obtained from the tanning , or chemical treatment, of animal skins and hides to prevent decay. The most common leathers come from cattle , sheep , goats, equine animals, buffalo, pigs and hogs, and aquatic animals such as seals and alligators. Leather can be used to make
5336-562: The late 1850s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. A shoe-stitching machine was invented by the American Lyman Blake in 1856 and perfected by 1864. Entering into a partnership with McKay, his device became known as the McKay stitching machine and was quickly adopted by manufacturers throughout New England . As bottlenecks opened up in
5428-440: The leather. Chemical damage can also occur from exposure to environmental factors, including ultraviolet light, ozone, acid from sulfurous and nitrous pollutants in the air, or through a chemical action following any treatment with tallow or oil compounds. Both oxidation and chemical damage occur faster at higher temperatures. There are few methods to maintain and clean leather goods properly such as using damp cloth and avoid using
5520-410: The left or right foot. Such shoes are now referred to as "straights". Only gradually did the modern foot-specific shoe become standard. Shoemaking became more commercialized in the mid-18th century, as it expanded as a cottage industry . Large warehouses began to stock footwear, made by many small manufacturers from the area. Until the 19th century, shoemaking was a traditional handicraft, but by
5612-399: The liquor's pH in a process called basification, which fixes the tanning material to the leather. The more tanning material fixed, the higher the leather's hydrothermal stability and shrinkage temperature resistance. Crusting is a process that thins and lubricates leather. It often includes a coloring operation. Chemicals added during crusting must be fixed in place. Crusting culminates with
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#17328519968175704-480: The lower body. Leather's flexibility allows it to be formed and shaped into balls and protective gear. Subsequently, many sports use equipment made with leather, such as baseball gloves and the ball used in cricket and gridiron football . Leather fetishism is the name popularly used to describe a fetishistic attraction to people wearing leather, or in certain cases, to the garments themselves. Many rock groups (particularly heavy metal and punk groups in
5796-501: The mass production of boots for the soldiers of the British Army . In 1812, he devised a scheme for making nailed-boot-making machinery that automatically fastened soles to uppers by means of metallic pins or nails. With the support of the Duke of York , the shoes were manufactured, and, due to their strength, cheapness, and durability, were introduced for the use of the army. In the same year,
5888-575: The mid-20th century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic cloth, and industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create shoes that stray considerably from traditional crafting techniques. Leather, which had been the primary material in earlier styles, has remained standard in expensive dress shoes, but athletic shoes often have little or no real leather. Soles, which were once laboriously hand-stitched on, are now more often machine stitched or simply glued on. Many of these newer materials, such as rubber and plastics, have made shoes less biodegradable. It
5980-400: The natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil , neatsfoot oil , or a similar material keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically. Tanning processes largely differ in which chemicals are used in the tanning liquor. Some common types include: In general, leather is produced in
6072-686: The noble Han classes, but soon spreading throughout Chinese society. The practice allegedly started during the Shang dynasty, but it grew popular by c. AD 960 . When the Mongols conquered China, they dissolved the practice in 1279, and the Manchus banned foot binding in 1644. The Han people, however, continued the practice without much government intervention. In medieval times shoes could be up to two feet long, with their toes sometimes filled with hair, wool, moss, or grass. Many medieval shoes were made using
6164-472: The offerings". Athletic sneaker collection has also existed as a part of urban subculture in the United States for several decades. Recent decades have seen this trend spread to European nations such as the Czech Republic . A Sneakerhead is a person who owns multiple pairs of shoes as a form of collection and fashion. A contributor to the growth of sneaker collecting is the continued global popularity of
6256-639: The oldest shoes found in Europe. It is thought that shoes may have been used long before this, but because the materials used were highly perishable, it is difficult to find evidence of the earliest footwear. Footprints suggestive of shoes or sandals due to having crisp edges, no signs of toes found and three small divots where leather tying laces/straps would have been attached have been at Garden Route National Park , Addo Elephant National Park and Goukamma Nature Reserve in South Africa . These date back to between 73,000 and 136,000 PB. Consistent with
6348-417: The outsole to improve traction. The midsole is the layer in between the outsole and the insole, typically there for shock absorption. Some types of shoes, like running shoes, have additional material for shock absorption , usually beneath the heel of the foot, where one puts the most pressure down. Some shoes may not have a midsole at all. The heel is the bottom rear part of a shoe. Its function
6440-428: The plot. One poem, written by Phebus Etienne with the title "Shoes", focuses on them. It describes religious messages and is 3 stanzas long. The first stanza is one line, whereas the second is 13 lines and the third being 14 lines. Throughout the poem the main character talks about their dead mother and their routine with her grave. Haitians are said to "not put shoes on the dead." as it makes spirits easier to "step over
6532-581: The point getting in the way while walking. Also during the 15th century, chopines were created in Spain , and were usually 7–8 in (180–200 mm) high. These shoes became popular in Venice and throughout Europe, as a status symbol revealing wealth and social standing. During the 16th century, royalty, such as Catherine de Medici or Mary I of England , started wearing high-heeled shoes to make them look taller or larger than life. By 1580, even men wore them, and
6624-557: The poor and lower classes in Europe, as well as slaves in the New World, were barefoot. In the 15th century, the Crakow was fashionable in Europe . This style of shoe is named because it is thought to have originated in Kraków , the capital of Poland . The style is characterized by the point of the shoe, known as the "polaine", which often was supported by a whalebone tied to the knee to prevent
6716-410: The process, which implies no knowledge of what is done by those who go before or follow him, so the persons employed are not shoemakers, but wounded soldiers, who are able to learn their respective duties in a few hours. The contract at which these shoes are delivered to Government is 6s. 6d. per pair, being at least 2s. less than what was paid previously for an unequal and cobbled article. However, when
6808-435: The production line due to these innovations, more and more of the manufacturing stages, such as pegging and finishing, became automated. By the 1890s, the process of mechanisation was largely complete. On January 24, 1899, Humphrey O'Sullivan of Lowell, Massachusetts , was awarded a patent for a rubber heel for boots and shoes. A process for manufacturing stitchless, that is, glued, shoes— AGO —was developed in 1910. Since
6900-530: The regulations currently in force in some countries." In Kanpur , the self-proclaimed "Leather City of World"—with 10,000 tanneries as of 2011 and a city of three million on the banks of the Ganges —pollution levels were so high, that despite an industry crisis, the pollution control board decided to shut down 49 high-polluting tanneries out of 404 in July 2009. In 2003 for instance, the main tanneries' effluent disposal unit
6992-416: The removal of one's shoe also symbolized the dissolution of marriage. In Arab culture , showing the sole of one's shoe is considered an insult, and to throw a shoe and hit someone with it is considered an even greater insult. Shoes are considered to be dirty as they frequently touch the ground, and are associated with the lowest part of the body—the foot . As such, shoes are forbidden in mosques , and it
7084-468: The shell. It is prized for its mirror-like finish and anti-creasing properties. Lamb and deerskin are used for soft leather in more expensive apparel. Deerskin is widely used in work gloves and indoor shoes. Reptilian skins, such as alligator , crocodile, and snake , are noted for their distinct patterns that reflect the scales of their species. This has led to hunting and farming of these species in part for their skins. The Argentine black and white tegu
7176-407: The shoe onto the foot. In the simplest cases, such as sandals or flip-flops, this may be nothing more than a few straps for holding the sole in place. Closed footwear, such as boots, trainers and most men's shoes, will have a more complex upper. This part is often decorated or is made in a certain style to look attractive. The upper is connected to the sole by a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that
7268-554: The sole of one's shoe or using shoes to insult are forms of protest in many parts of the world. Incidents where shoes were thrown at political figures have taken place in Australia, India, Ireland, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Pakistan, the United Kingdom, the United States, and most notably the Arab world . Empty shoes may also symbolize death. In Greek culture, empty shoes are the equivalent of
7360-537: The source of leather in their products. Such labeling helps facilitate religious observance, so, for example, a Muslim will not accidentally purchase pigskin or a Hindu can avoid cattleskin. Such taboos increase the demand for religiously neutral leathers such as ostrich and deer . Judaism forbids the comfort of wearing leather shoes on Yom Kippur , Tisha B'Av , and during mourning. Also, see Leather in Judaism , Teffilin and Torah Scroll . Jainism prohibits
7452-400: The surface and a change in consistency. Damage from red rot is aggravated by high temperatures and relative humidities. Although it is chemically irreversible, treatments can add handling strength and prevent disintegration of red rotted leather. Exposure to long periods of low relative humidities (below 40%) can cause leather to become desiccated, irreversibly changing the fibrous structure of
7544-440: The term's use in product labelling. Today, most leather is made of cattle (cow) hides, which constitute about 65% of all leather produced. Other animals that are used include sheep (about 13%), goats (about 11%), and pigs (about 10%). Obtaining accurate figures from around the world is difficult, especially for areas where the skin may be eaten. There are significant regional differences in leather production: i.e. goat leather
7636-400: The turnshoe method was largely replaced by the welted rand method (where the uppers are sewn to a much stiffer sole and the shoe cannot be turned inside-out). The turn shoe method is still used for some dance and specialty shoes. By the 15th century, pattens became popular by both men and women in Europe . These are commonly seen as the predecessor of the modern high-heeled shoe , while
7728-461: The use of screws and staples was patented by Richard Woodman . Brunel's system was described by Sir Richard Phillips as a visitor to his factory in Battersea as follows: In another building I was shown his manufactory of shoes, which, like the other, is full of ingenuity, and, in regard to subdivision of labour, brings this fabric on a level with the oft-admired manufactory of pins. Every step in it
7820-513: The war ended in 1815, manual labour became much cheaper, and the demand for military equipment subsided. As a consequence, Brunel's system was no longer profitable and it soon ceased business. Similar exigencies at the time of the Crimean War stimulated a renewed interest in methods of mechanization and mass-production, which proved longer lasting. A shoemaker in Leicester , Tomas Crick, patented
7912-457: The weekend of 8 April 2017 in the neighborhood. The higher cost associated with the treatment of effluents than to untreated effluent discharging leads to illegal dumping to save on costs. For instance, in Croatia in 2001, proper pollution abatement cost US$ 70–100 per ton of raw hides processed against $ 43/t for irresponsible behavior. In November 2009, one of Uganda's main leather making companies
8004-724: The wet weight of the original hides, the tanning process represents a considerable strain on water treatment installations. Leather biodegrades slowly—taking 25 to 40 years to decompose . However, vinyl and petrochemical-derived materials take 500 or more years to decompose. Tanning is especially polluting in countries where environmental regulations are lax, such as in India, the world's third-largest producer and exporter of leather. To give an example of an efficient pollution prevention system, chromium loads per produced tonne are generally abated from 8 kg to 1.5 kg. VOC emissions are typically reduced from 30 kg/t to 2 kg/t in
8096-544: Was caught directly dumping waste water into a wetland adjacent to Lake Victoria . Enzymes like proteases , lipases , and amylases have an important role in the soaking, dehairing, degreasing, and bating operations of leather manufacturing. Proteases are the most commonly used enzymes in leather production. The enzyme must not damage or dissolve collagen or keratin , but should hydrolyze casein , elastin , albumin , globulin -like proteins, and nonstructural proteins that are not essential for leather making. This process
8188-576: Was dumping 22 tonnes of chromium-laden solid waste per day in the open. In the Hazaribagh neighborhood of Dhaka in Bangladesh , chemicals from tanneries end up in Dhaka's main river. Besides the environmental damage, the health of both local factory workers and the end consumer is also negatively affected. After approximately 15 years of ignoring high court rulings, the government shut down more than 100 tanneries
8280-546: Was historically called "Turkey" or "Morocco" due to its association with the Middle East, while pig skin had historically been used the most in Germany. Other animals mentioned below only constitute a fraction of a percent of total leather production. Horse hides are used to make particularly durable leathers. Shell cordovan is a horse leather made not from the outer skin but from an under layer, found only in equine species, called
8372-403: Was seen as a necessity of living in a civilized world, although the slaves and paupers usually went barefoot. Roman soldiers were issued with chiral (left and right shoe different) footwear. Shoes for soldiers had riveted insoles to extend the life of the leather, increase comfort, and provide better traction. The design of these shoes also designated the rank of the officers. The more intricate
8464-497: Was soon repealed, but it was banned again in 1911 by the new Nationalist government. It was effective in coastal cities, but countryside cities continued without much regulation. Mao Zedong enforced the rule in 1949 and the practice is still forbidden. A number of women still have bound feet today. The first steps towards mechanisation were taken during the Napoleonic Wars by the engineer, Marc Brunel . He developed machinery for
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