Misplaced Pages

#810189

22-578: The Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women, with a mandarin collar , and with its front modelled on the Indian achkan or sherwani , a garment worn by Jawaharlal Nehru , the prime minister of India from 1947 to 1964. The Nehru jacket is a variation of the Jodhpuri where the material is often khadi (hand-woven cloth). The Jodhpuri itself is an evolution from the Angarkha . Popularized during

44-583: A button on the collar to secure the two sides of the shirt together. In China, the use of the high collar on minority ethnic jackets is typically a Han Chinese influence. The use of high collar in clothing started in the late Ming dynasty and it continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty . In the Ming dynasty, the standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver, called zimukou ( Chinese : 子母扣 ). The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted

66-465: A hole at the back and one on each side at the front. The stiff collar is attached at the back before the shirt is donned (and the tie placed under the collar for a turndown collar ), then the shirt is put on, after which the front stud is pushed through the collar to fasten it. Detachable collars are often used by barristers in the UK, Ireland and Canada, many of whom wear a wing collar when in court to allow

88-499: A wing collar. Outside these situations, detachable collars are less common. Stiff collars in particular with daywear in the 21st century are generally rare, but if one is worn, it is usually a turndown collar, though morning dress is seen still with a wing collar. Older styles, such as the imperial collar (a high collar with no wings last popular with the Edwardians ), are not frequently seen now. A more common use of detachable collars

110-693: Is often a mandarin collar. This term is also used for shirts that have only a flat finishing around the neckline; originally such garments were designed for use with a detachable collar , a largely forgotten usage. In contemporary Western dress, mandarin collars are found in Asian-style and minimalist clothing. Women's mandarin-collared jackets often include other vaguely Asian elements, such as pankou ( silk knots ) as closures instead of buttons . Since mandarin collars are short and do not fold over, neckties are not worn with mandarin-collared dress shirts , apart from bow ties . This lack of ties may have led to

132-499: Is with eveningwear, in which case a high wing collar is worn in America although turn-down collars are preferred for black-tie in Britain as per Edward VIII. To starch a collar, it must be rinsed in boiling water to remove any starch, then laundered as normal. After soaking in a concentrated warm starch solution, it is left until nearly dry, then ironed until hard. While ironing, the shape

154-739: The Austin Powers series of films are depicted wearing mandarin collared shirts. The mandarin collar can also be found in the uniforms of both the Galactic Empire in the Star Wars films, and the Federation in Star Trek: The Next Generation . Mandarin collar lab coats and a jacket also feature in the CBBC show The Demon Headmaster when the antagonist known as 'The Demon Headmaster' takes on

176-463: The British Army , US Navy and US Marine Corps . The Russian Army uses a mandarin collar in their newer VKBO uniforms. Mandarin collars are also the proper shape for a single-breasted Greek cassock , or anterri, for Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic clergy. Russians and other Slavic Churches typically have a high, band-style collar, buttoning to the side or on the shoulder, while Greeks have

198-501: The "notched" Mandarin pattern with a closing loop or hook at the bottom of the "V" in the collar. The collar is also used for the required sport fencing dress . Mandarin collars feature in costumes in some notable films , where they are employed either as a futuristic style fashion or to create a distinctive appearance for sinister characters. The title character in the 1962 James Bond film Dr. No , as well as Bond's nemesis, Ernst Stavro Blofeld , both parodied by Doctor Evil in

220-463: The Doctor in his fugitive incarnation . Detachable collar A detachable collar is a shirt collar separate from the shirt, fastened to it by studs. The collar is usually made of a different fabric from the shirt, in which case it is almost always white, and, being unattached to the shirt, can be starched to a hard cardboard-like consistency. The local history of Troy, New York attributes

242-627: The Han women and it continued to remain so in the Republic of China . The standing collar somehow became the a defining characteristics of Chinese dress. A similar style known as the Raj pattern or Nehru collar is also found in some modern Indian men's clothing, such as the Nehru jacket . (Named for Jawaharlal Nehru , Prime Minister of India 1947–1964, who commonly wore clothing with this type of collar.) A band

SECTION 10

#1732856205811

264-596: The Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China). In Qing, the use of high collar in clothing was however not a common feature in clothing before the 20th century. During the late Qing dynasty, the stand-up collar was integrated into the clothing of both the Chinese and the Manchu . The standing collar became a defining characteristics of the long jacket worn with a long skirt ( aoqun ) or worn with trousers ( shanku ) for

286-459: The Nehru jacket was listed among the "Top 10 Political Fashion Statements" by Time magazine . Mandarin collar The length along a mandarin collar is straight, with either straight or rounded edges at top of the centre front. The edges of the collar either barely meet at the centre front or overlap slightly. Overlapping mandarin collars are often a continuation of a shirt's placket and have

308-633: The aspirational class' growing awareness of foreign cultures, by the minimalism of the Mod lifestyle and, in particular, by Sammy Davis Jr. and the Beatles . Some were also worn by Roger Delgado 's version of the renegade Time Lord known as the Master on the British science fiction television show Doctor Who . Charles Barron and Mahathir Mohamad are among the politicians who frequently wear Nehru suits. In 2012,

330-483: The concept. The manufacture of detachable collars and the associated shirts became a significant industry in Troy. It was later that the benefit of being able to starch the collars became apparent, and for a short time, various other parts of the shirt, such as the front and cuffs, were also made detachable and treated to rigid stiffness. As more emphasis started to be placed on comfort in clothing this practice declined, and

352-563: The emergence and the popularity of the standup collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles . In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to climate changes during

374-431: The invention of the detachable collar in 1827 to Hannah Montague, who wished to avoid washing her husband's shirts when only the collars were dirty. She cut off the collars and attached lengths of fabric tape so that they could be tied around the neck of the collarless shirt. This meant that collars could be washed independently, saving time and labour. The Rev. Ebenezer Brown, a businessman in town, proceeded to commercialize

396-523: The recent rising popularity of mandarin collars. Mandarin collars are also heavily utilized in modern-day military combat uniforms such as the US Army 's Army Combat Uniform . The presence of the mandarin collar on the ACU makes the wearing of body armor more comfortable by lifting the collar up to prevent chafing. Standing collars are also common on historically based military dress uniforms, such as dress uniforms of

418-529: The roles of 'Computer Director' (Series 1 Episodes 4-6), 'Director of the Biogenetic Research Centre' (BRC) (Series 2) and the 'Controller' (Series 3) The science fiction series Doctor Who featured mandarin collars. One was on a black lab tunic worn by Davros , the forger of the Daleks . One was on shirts worn by the Master in his first and sixth incarnations. And one was on a kente shirt worn by

440-412: The stiff collar is the last surviving use of such heavily starched cotton in daywear. Today a full dress shirt (worn with white tie and occasionally black tie ) still has a stiff (but attached) front and cuffs to accompany the stiff detachable collar. The collar is attached to the shirt by a pair of studs like those shown to the left. The shirt has a tunic collar, a short upright band of fabric with

462-501: The terms of Jawaharlal Nehru, these distinct Bandhgalas made from khadi remain popular to this day. Unlike the achkan, which falls somewhere below the knees of the wearer, the Nehru jacket is shorter. Jawaharlal Nehru, notably, never wore this type of Nehru jacket. The jacket was first marketed as the Nehru jacket in Europe and America in the mid-1960s. It was briefly popular there in the late 1960s and early 1970s, its popularity spurred by

SECTION 20

#1732856205811

484-471: The use of bands . On the way to and from court, a turndown collar and tie are worn. Another common use of detachable collars now is a clerical collar (or "Roman Collar"), though these are now often made from flexible plastic for ease of washing, and are not always now attached in the traditional way with studs. Also, at Eton College , all pupils wear stiff collars, mostly turndown collars, while students in positions of authority wear 'stick-ups', which includes

#810189