Assam silk denotes the three major types of indigenous wild silks produced in Assam —golden muga , white pat and warm eri silk. The Assam silk industry, now centered in Sualkuchi , is a labor-intensive industry.
36-516: Muga or MUGA may refer to: Assam silk Bodegas Muga , a Rioja winery MUGA scan Muga, Nepal , village Muga (river) , Spain Muga River (Ethiopia) Multi-use games area MUGA World Pro Wrestling Topics referred to by the same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with the title Muga . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change
72-415: A Brahmin, or "is not willing to die" through the sacrifice is unfit for the ritual. The text describes the rituals associated with a bali , or a rice-paste substitute for enemies prior to a war, but does not describe how the sacrifice was actually done. The work belongs to the goddess-oriented Shakta branch of Hinduism . Most probably it was composed in or near medieval Kamarupa (modern Assam ). It
108-723: A few Tanti families to begin weaving commercially. They started weaving factories engaging hired wage weavers. Today, 73.78% of the households in Sualkuchi work in the commercial weaving industry. Although the hired wage weavers were originally the local poor from Bamun-Sualkuchi and Bhatipara, migrant weavers from different parts of Assam have become dominant in the industry since the 1980s. The census of hand-looms in Sualkuchi, conducted in 2002 reveals that Sualkuchi has 13,752 active commercial hand-looms, and 54.75% of these looms are operated by female weavers who are hired from towns outside of Sualkuchi. While silk-rearing vanished long time ago,
144-469: A format not found in either the major or minor Purana -genre mythical texts of Hinduism. Various types of animal sacrifices for devi are detailed in the Purana. The text starts off with the legends of Devi trying to bring Shiva back from ascetic life into that of a householder's by making him fall in love again. According to Ludo Rocher , Markandeya describes how Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu are "one and
180-417: A piece of pat cloth, and the exhibition presented it to him. The woven picture was so fine that even the two broken front teeth of Gandhiji with a smiling face were depicted and while seeing the picture the father of the nation remarked that the weavers could weave dreams in their cloth. "Khat khat khat khatsalare sabade prean mor nite nachuyai" was one of the most popular radio songs composed and sung during
216-585: Is a general term referring to the people of the Mongoloid origin and it refers specially to the Bodos." These Bodos referred by Nath are today known as Kacharis which includes groups such as Boros , Deori ,Dimasas , Chutias , Rabhas , Sonowal , Garo and Koch . J. Geoghegan in his book Silk in India states that: "Whatever may be the date of the introduction of the worm, its geographical distribution at present day, and
252-471: Is a late work, states Hazra, by Nibandha writers regarding Shakti worship. It is also one of the rare Hindu texts that actually mentions the word "Hindu". According to Hazra, there existed a text that was older than the extant one, and that the origin of that text was Bengal . This is denied by Shastri, who claims that the evidence provided by Hazra for an earlier text can be explained by other means, without invoking an older text. According to Shastri,
288-399: Is also known as endi or errandi silk. Because manufacturing process of eri allows the pupae to develop into adults and only the open ended cocoons are used for turning into silk, it is also popularly known as non-violent silk. This silk is soft and warm and is popular as shawls and quilts. Sualkuchi is a multi-caste town of Kamrup (rural) district of Assam, situated on the north bank of
324-733: Is also mentioned in the text that the loin fibres were so even and polished that it resembled Bhoj-patra , which could indicate silk as well. There are also references of Assam silk in the records written by Huen Sang where he has written the use and trade of silk in Kamrupa during the rule of king Bhaskar Varman. Ram Mohan Nath in his book The Background of Assamese Culture states that it would be "clear that in ancient times traders from different parts of Tibet , Central Asia and China flocked to Assam through various routes, and as they traded mostly in silk, they were generally called Seres – Cirrahadoi – Syrities – Cirata – Kirata. The word Kirata therefore,
360-527: Is confirmed by the 8th-century writer Kumārila Bhaṭṭa who, in his commentary of Arthashatra, said that Kamrupa was Suvarnakudya( Kamarupeschaiva Suvarna Kudyah ). As per the Arthashatra, the fibres of Suvarnakudyaka were of 'the colour of butter', 'as red as the sun', and of the best quality. Due to this description of colour, the type of silk can be easily identified as Muga. The text also refers to four trees ( Vakula , Likucha , Vata and Naga-vriksa ) which
396-441: Is the centre of the silk hand-loom industry of Assam. Originally, Sualkuchi was a "craft village" having several cottage industries until the 1940s, such as hand-loom weaving, traditional oil processing, goldsmithing, and pottery. But since the 1940s, the industries other than hand-loom have almost become extinct, and the artisans have taken up silk weaving. Until 1930, the weaving industry of Sualkuchi remained almost confined within
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#1732851971381432-579: The Kali Purana , Sati Purana or Kalika Tantra , is one of the eighteen minor Puranas ( Upapurana ) in the Shaktism tradition of Hinduism . The text was likely composed in Assam or Cooch Behar region of India and is attributed to the sage Markandeya . It exists in many versions, variously organized in 90 to 93 chapters. The surviving versions of the text are unusual in that they start abruptly and follow
468-692: The Tanti community of Tantipara. Later, people belonging to other communities gradually took up silk weaving. Now, even the fishermen of the Koibortapara hamlet of Bamun-Sualkuchi and the Brahmin families have also given up their ascriptive caste occupations and have taken up silk weaving as their main source of income. The weaving industry of Sualkuchi received a big boost during the Second World War . The growing demand for fabrics and their increasing prices encouraged
504-493: The 1950s by the present artist pensioner Narayan Chandra Das Of Sualkuchhi. Actually the 'click-clack click-clack' sound of the loom make the soul of the passerby dance with the rhythmic rattle of the shuttle flying through the sheds of the wrap. Kalika Purana Divisions Sama vedic Yajur vedic Atharva vedic Vaishnava puranas Shaiva puranas Shakta puranas The Kalika Purana ( Sanskrit : कालिकापुराणम्, Kālikā Purāṇa ), also called
540-454: The authority to inspect Muga silk products, certify their authenticity and allow traders to use the GI logo. Pat silk is produced by Bombyx textor silkworms which feed on mulberry ( Morus spp.) leaves. It is usually brilliant white or off-white in colour. Its cloth can dry in shadow. Eri silk is made by Samia cynthia ricini which feed on leaves of castor oil plant ( Ricinus communis ). It
576-565: The court poet Banabhatta in the 7th century), during the coronation ceremony of King Harshavardhan, king Bhaskarvarman of Kamrupa gifted many precious items to the North Indian king. Out of this the most important ones include the precious fabrics and jewels. These included an umbrella wrapped by a dukula cloth, sacks of patta-sutra cloth as well as ksoma fabrics which were as pure as the autumn moon's light ( sharada chandrama shaucha ksamani ). These fabrics could either be silk or linen. It
612-567: The deities at the Dikkarvasini pitha (also known as Tamreswari of Sadiya ), red, yellow and white Kauseya (meaning wild silk, probably Muga) were used to drap the idols of the presiding deities of the temple. It is known that Muga, in olden times, was available in yellow(natural), white( Mejankari muga ) and often dyed red with lac. The knowledge of sericulture probably arrived with the Tibeto-Burman groups which arrived from China around
648-408: The fact species first introduced was a multivoltine, seem to me to lead to the conclusion that the insect was first introduced into India from the north-east." Genetic research on silkworms show that Assam silk originated in two specific regions of Assam. One was Garo Hills in the ancient Kamrupa kingdom and the other was Dhakuakhana in the ancient Chutia kingdom . Muga silk is the product of
684-421: The fibre Patrorna (a form of white silk), fed on the leaves of Vata , Lakucha , etc. The Arthashastra also states that the fibre was spun while the threads were wet, indicating that the production method was still the same at that period. The ancient text Kalika Purana (dated between 10th-11th century) well records the use of silk in the worship of deities in ancient Kamrupa. As per the text, while worshipping
720-488: The gani industry perished during the early 20th century as the 'Mudois' of Sualkuchi. In the 21st century, the local weavers and artisans of Sualkuchi began using digital platforms to promote their products globally. Assam silk has been recognized by major Indian cultural figures, most notably Mahatma Gandhi and Narayan Chandra Das. Gandhi visited Sualkuchi on January 9, 1946, to view an exhibition of eri and khadi clothes. Designer Rajen Dek wove an image of Gandhi into
756-431: The highly sophisticated silk clothing from Assam. Kautilya mentions the production of Suvarnakudyaka (from Kamrupa ) along with Vangika (from Vanga /southern Bengal), Magadhika (from Magadha ) and Paundrika (from Pundra /northern Bengal), of which Suvarnakudyaka, Magadhika and Paundrika fabrics were types of Kauseya ( Tussar/Muga ) and Cina-patta ( Mulberry silk ). The fact that Kamrupa produced Suvarnakudyaka
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#1732851971381792-474: The link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Muga&oldid=933005899 " Category : Disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Assam silk Assam was well known for the production of high quality silk since ancient times. The craft of weaving goes along with
828-537: The local descriptions; the exposition of the myth of Naraka from who all the dynasties of Kamarupa drew their lineage; the description of the myth of Brahmaputra river; and the claim in the text that Kamarupa was holier than even Varanasi points to the text having been composed in Kamarupa. References to Kālidāsa and Magha suggests that it is not one of the early Puranas. The mention of places and events associated with Ratna Pala (920-960) of Kamrupa region places
864-481: The mighty Brahmaputra at a distance of 30 km west of Guwahati. Many people in Sualkuchi are weavers. Almost every household has a hand-loom to manufacture traditional Assamese silk. As per the Census report of 2001, the workforce participation rate in the town was 37.93% of the total populations, of which only 0.53% were cultivators, 1.2% were agricultural labours, 56.37% were engaged in household industries and
900-576: The period of 3000-2000 BC. Moreover, there was another trade of Silk through the Southwestern Silk road which started from China, passed through Burma and Assam, finally getting connected to the main silk road in Turkmenistan. There are various other records to show that silk came to India through Assam. As per the Sanskrit text Harshacharita (biography of North Indian ruler Harshavardhan written by
936-531: The poor weavers, who return the woven cloth against wages per piece. Although silk was cultivated and woven by women all around Assam, the silk clothes of a particular place named Sualkuchi achieved much fame during the Kamarupa as well as Ahom rule. Sualkuchi is said to have been established in the 11th Century by King Dharma Pala of the Pala dynasty that ruled western Assam from 900 AD to about 1100 AD. Dharma Pala,
972-592: The production of silk. It grew to such sophistication in Assam that it was known all over India and abroad. In the Kishkindha Kanda of Ramayana , it is stated that one travelling towards the east has to first pass through Magadha , Anga , Pundra and then the Kosha-karanam-bhumi ("the country of cocoon rearers"). Kautilya 's Arthashastra , a political literature of the 3rd century BC, makes references to
1008-463: The remaining 41.90% were engaged in other activities. There are several lakh throw and fly-shuttle handlooms in Assam, but most of them are domestic weaving a few metres of cloth for the use by the family members. There are also some semi commercial looms producing some metres of fabrics for the market during the off hours of the house-wives. These semi-commercial weavers work either independently or under some so called "Mahajans". Mahajans supply yarn to
1044-530: The same" and that all goddesses ( Sati , Parvati, Menaka , Kali and others) are manifestation of the same feminine energy. It glorifies goddess Kamakhya , or Kamakshi , and details the ritual procedures required for worshiping her. It also describes in detail the rivers and mountains at Kamarupa tirtha and mentions the Brahmaputra River and the Kamakhya Temple . Chapters 67 through 78 of
1080-647: The silk outlives its owner. In 2015, Adarsh Gupta K of Nagaraju's research team at Centre for DNA Fingerprinting and Diagnostics , Hyderabad, India, discovered the complete sequence and the protein structure of muga silk fibroin and published it in Nature Scientific Reports Muga silk has been given the Geographical Indication (GI) status since 2007 and the logo for authentic production has been registered with Assam Science Technology and Environment Council. The Central Silk Board of India has
1116-467: The silkworm Antheraea assamensis endemic to Assam. The larvae of these moths feed on som ( Machilus bombycina ) and sualu ( Litsaea polyantha ) leaves. The silk produced is known for its glossy, fine texture and durability. It was previously reported that muga silk cannot be dyed or bleached due to "low porosity", but this is incorrect; muga takes dye like any other silk. This silk can be hand washed with its lustre increasing after every wash. Very often
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1152-507: The silkworms feed on. Out of these, Vakula and Naga-vriksa belong to the genus Ericales and Magnolia which the Muga silkworm Antheraea assamensis is known to feed on; while Likucha (Artocarpus lakucha) and Vata belong to the genus Moraceae (Mulberry) which the Pat Silkworm feeds on. This is further confirmed from the 9th century thesaurus Amara-kosha which mentions that the worms of
1188-463: The state. However, Sualkuchi is best known for its silk textiles, both mulberry and muga silk. Muga, "the golden fibre", is produced only in Assam; it's become known as Assam silk from its association with the region. Such activities are intimately linked with the culture and tradition of the Assamese people since long past. Having a long tradition of silk weaving at least since the 17th century, Sualkuchi
1224-479: The story goes, brought 26 weaver families from Tantikuchi in Barpeta to Sualkuchi and created a weavers' village close to modern-day Guwahati. Silk was given royal patronage during that period and Sualkuchi was made an important centre of silk weaving. The hand-loom industry of Sualkuchi creates cotton textiles, silk textiles, and Khadi cloth. These traditional textiles hold high social and moral value in and outside
1260-483: The text constitute the Rudhiradhyaya which discusses bali (animal sacrifice) and of Vamacara Tantrism . The Rudhiradhyaya section is notable for its uncommon discussion of human sacrifice. The text states that a human sacrifice may be performed to please the goddess, but only with the consent of prince before a war or cases of imminent danger. The text also states that anyone who is physically disabled, related to
1296-534: The text to after the 10th-century. The explanation in the text for the Mlechchha population, and the indication of a parallel explanation in Harjaravarman's (815-832) Hyunthal copper plate inscription places the text closer to his reign. According to Rocher, the mention of king Dharmapala of Kamarupa has led to proposals of Kalika Purana being an 11th- or 12th-century text. However, estimates for different sections of
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