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50-398: Katazome ( 型染め ) is a Japanese method of dyeing fabrics using a resist paste applied through a stencil , typically a rice flour mixture applied with a brush or a tool such as a palette knife . Unlike yūzen , stencils are used repeatedly to make a repeating pattern. Pigment is added by hand-painting, immersion dyeing, or both. The area of the fabric covered and permeated by

100-592: A blue dye and medicinal plant. Its genus name, Isatis , derives from the ancient Greek word for the plant, ἰσάτις . It is occasionally known as Asp of Jerusalem . Woad is also the name of a blue dye produced from the leaves of the plant. Woad is native to the steppe and desert zones of the Caucasus , Central Asia to Eastern Siberia and Western Asia but is now also found in South-Eastern and Central Europe and western North America . Since ancient times, woad

150-845: A dye shop with remains of both woad and madder have been excavated and dated to the 10th century. In medieval times, centres of woad cultivation lay in Lincolnshire and Somerset in England, Jülich and the Erfurt area in Thuringia in Germany, Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy, and Gascogne , Normandy , the Somme Basin (from Amiens to Saint-Quentin ), Brittany and, above all, Languedoc in France. This last region, in

200-436: A piece of cotton dyed with a vegetable dye was recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro (3rd millennium BCE). The dye used in this case was madder , which, along with other dyes such as indigo , was introduced to other regions through trade. Natural insect dyes such as Cochineal and kermes and plant-based dyes such as woad , indigo and madder were important elements of the economies of Asia and Europe until

250-407: A practical and chemical understanding of how each fabric responded differently to the dye, how much it would shrink, how much color it would absorb, developing entirely new forms of quality control to verify possible defects in fabric before dyeing etc. Beyond the industrial advantages of the technique (purchasing fabric in one color, white or natural, you may produce as many colors as you wish etc.),

300-679: A prehistoric cave in the Georgia and dates back to 34,000 BC. More evidence of textile dyeing dates back to the Neolithic period at the large Neolithic settlement at Çatalhöyük in southern Anatolia , where traces of red dyes, possibly from ocher , an iron oxide pigment derived from clay , were found. In China , dyeing with plants, barks , and insects has been traced back more than 5,000 years. Early evidence of dyeing comes from Sindh province in Ancient India modern day Pakistan , where

350-404: A product is dyed varies depending on its intended end use, the cost to the manufacturer, its desired appearance, and the resources available, amongst other reasons. There are specific terms to describe these dyeing methods, such as: There are various terms used in the manufacturing and marketing industries depending on the method used to dye the substrate. For example, "stock dyed" refers to dyeing

400-461: A solid colour underside, typically indigo blue for cotton fabrics. Futon covers made from multiple panels of katazome fabric, if the stencils are properly placed and the panels joined correctly, can display a seamless stencilled pattern. Besides cotton, katazome has been used to decorate linen , silk and fabrics that are entirely or partially- synthetic . Dyeing The primary source of dye, historically, has been nature , with

450-602: A woad mill model, photos and other items used in woad production. A major market for woad was at Görlitz in Lausitz. The citizens of the five Thuringian Färberwaid (dye woad) towns of Erfurt , Gotha , Tennstedt , Arnstadt and Langensalza had their own charters. In Erfurt, the woad-traders gave the funds to found the University of Erfurt . Traditional fabric is still printed with woad in Thuringia, Saxony and Lusatia today: it

500-413: Is a method used to partially or entirely remove color from dyed textile materials. It can also be utilized as a reprocessing technique to correct imperfect dyeing. Isatis tinctoria Isatis tinctoria , also called woad ( / ˈ w oʊ d / ), dyer's woad, dyer's-weed , or glastum , is a flowering plant in the family Brassicaceae (the mustard family) with a documented history of use as

550-681: Is a semi-continuous dyeing process. Waterless dyeing, also known as dry dyeing, is the newly developed and more sustainable dyeing method in which the dyes are applied to the substrate with the help of carbon dioxide or solutions that need less or no water compared to their counterparts. The selection of the appropriate dyes is most important because any given dye does not apply to every type of fiber . Dyes are classified according to many parameters, such as chemical structure, affinity, application method, desired colour fastness i.e. resistance to washing, rubbing, and light. The properties may vary with different dyes. The selection of dye depends on

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600-634: Is actually caustic and causes scarring when put into the skin. It has also been claimed that Caesar was referring to some form of copper - or iron -based pigment. Analysis done on the Lindow Man did return evidence of copper. The same study also noted that the earliest definite reference to the woad plant in the British Isles dates to a seed impression on an Anglo-Saxon pot. The authors theorize that vitrum could have actually referred to copper(II) sulfate 's naturally occurring variant chalcanthite or to

650-560: Is described in The History of Woad and the Medieval Woad Vat (1998) ISBN   0-9534133-0-6 . Woad is biodegradable and safe in the environment. In Germany, there have been attempts to use it to protect wood against decay without applying dangerous chemicals. Production of woad is increasing in the UK for use in inks , particularly for inkjet printers , and dyes. In certain locations,

700-523: Is dyed with dispersed dyes . Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes , and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes. The word 'dye' ( / ˈ d aɪ / , DIE ) comes from the Middle English 'deie' , and from the Old English 'dag' and 'dah' . The first known use of the word 'dye' was before the 12th century. The earliest dyed flax fibers have been found in

750-467: Is higher than the continuous dyeing method. There are three corresponding ways of dyeing with the exhaust method. In continuous method dye is transported to the substrate by passing it through the different stages but continuously. The continuous method is an innovative method where many discrete dyeing stages are combined, such as applying color, fixation and, washing off of unfixed dyes. Types of continuous dyeing are as follows Cold pad batch method

800-604: Is known as Blaudruck (literally, "blue print(ing)"). In the Marche region, the cultivation of the plant was an important resource for the Duchy of Urbino in Italy. To fully understand the importance of the ford industry in the State of Urbino , it is enough to read the comprehensive Chapters of the art of wool in 1555, which dictated prescriptions regarding the cultivation and trade of woad, whether in loaves or macerated (powdered). Testifying to

850-719: Is mentioned in the Babylonian Talmud . Celtic blue is a shade of blue, also known as glas celtig in Welsh , or gorm ceilteach in both the Irish language and in Scottish Gaelic . Julius Caesar reported (in Commentarii de Bello Gallico ) that the Britanni used to colour their bodies blue with vitrum , a word that means primarily ' glass ' , but also the domestic name for

900-447: Is seen in its name: the term Isatis is linked to its ancient use to treat wounds; the term tinctoria references its use as a dye. There has also been some revival of the use of woad for craft purposes. The first archaeological finds of woad seeds date to the Neolithic period. The seeds have been found in the cave of l'Audoste, Bouches-du-Rhône , France. Impressions of seeds of Färberwaid (Isatis tinctoria L.) or German indigo, of

950-421: Is still practiced almost exclusively in Italy, by a handful of premium brands and suppliers who remain committed to the art. There are several terms associated with the process of dyeing: Affinity refers to the chemical attraction between two elements or substances, leading to their inclination to unite or combine, as observed between fiber and dyestuff. Materials that exhibit bleeding tendencies may lead to

1000-399: Is the assessment of hazards to human health and the environment . There are many dyes especially disperse dyes that may cause allergic reactions to some individuals, and the negative impact on the environment. There are national and international standards and regulations which need to comply. The term "direct dye application" stems from some dyestuff having to be either fermented as in

1050-488: Is the dark blue of the woad that has lasted best. Medieval uses of the dye were not limited to textiles. For example, the illustrator of the Lindisfarne Gospels ( c.  720 ) used a woad-based pigment for blue paint. As does the late 13th century North Italian manual on book illumination Liber colorum secundum magistrum Bernardum describe its usage. In Viking Age levels at archaeological digs at York ,

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1100-501: Is used as an herbal medicinal tea in China for colds and tonsillar ailments. Used as a tea, it has a brownish appearance and (unlike most Chinese medicines) is mildly sweet in taste. The dye chemical extracted from woad is indigo , the same dye extracted from "true indigo", Indigofera tinctoria , but in a lower concentration. Following the Portuguese discovery of the sea route to India by

1150-577: The Hôtel d'Assézat . One merchant, Jean de Bernuy, a Spanish Jew who had fled the Spanish Inquisition , was credit-worthy enough to be the main guarantor of the ransomed King Francis I after his capture at the Battle of Pavia by Charles V of Spain . Much of the woad produced here was used for the cloth industry in southern France, but it was also exported via Bayonne , Narbonne and Bordeaux to Flanders,

1200-427: The substrate , which may be a fiber, yarn, or fabric, while meeting specified colour fastness requirements. Tie-dye and printing are the methods where the color is applied in a localized manner. In the exhaust method, the dye is transported to the substrate by the dye liquor's motion. The dye is adsorbed onto the fibre surface and ideally diffuses into the whole of the fibre. Water consumption in exhaust application

1250-528: The 1870s commercial dyeing with natural dyestuffs was disappearing. An important characteristic was light-fastness - resistance to fading when exposed to sunlight using industrial techniques such as those developed by James Morton . Dyeing can be applied at various stages within the textile manufacturing process; for example, fibers may be dyed before being spun into yarns, and yarns may be dyed before being woven into fabrics. Fabrics and sometimes finished garments themselves may also be dyed. The stage at which

1300-622: The Low Countries, Italy, and above all Britain and Spain. After cropping the woad eddish could be let out for grazing sheep. The woad produced in Lincolnshire and Cambridgeshire in the 19th century was shipped out from the Port of Wisbech , Spalding and Boston , both the last to northern mills and the USA. The last portable woad mill was at Parson Drove , Cambridgeshire, Wisbech & Fenland Museum has

1350-527: The ancient Egyptians, who used it to dye the cloth wrappings applied for the mummies." Skelton states that one of the early dyes discovered by the ancient Egyptians was "blue woad (Isatis tinctoria)." Lucas writes, "What has been assumed to have been Indian Indigo on ancient Egyptian fabrics may have been woad." Hall states that the ancient Egyptians created their blue dye "by using indigotin, otherwise known as woad." A dye known as סטיס , satis in Aramaic ,

1400-441: The artistic advantages of the technique were considerable and in many ways paved the way for the creation of the clothing style today known as Italian Sportswear. These advantages included The disadvantages included: Today, whilst garment dyeing is a diffusely employed as an industrial technique around the globe, predominantly in the production of vintage style cotton garments and by fast fashion suppliers, complex garment dyeing

1450-549: The case of some natural dye or chemically reduced as in the case of synthetic vat and sulfur dyes before being applied. This renders the dye soluble so that it can be absorbed by the fiber since the insoluble dye has very little substantivity to the fiber. Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for dyeing cotton, are water-soluble and can be applied directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way. The term may also be applied to dyeing without

1500-539: The development of a chemical process to synthesize the pigment, both the woad and natural indigo industries collapsed in the first years of the 20th century. The last commercial harvest of woad until recent times occurred in 1932, in Lincolnshire , Britain. Small amounts of woad are now grown in the UK and France to supply craft dyers. The classic book about woad is The Woad Plant and its Dye by J. B. Hurry, Oxford University Press of 1930, which contains an extensive bibliography. A method for producing blue dye from woad

1550-438: The discovery of man-made synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century. The first synthetic dye was William Perkin 's mauveine in 1856, derived from coal tar . Alizarin , the red dye present in madder, was the first natural pigment to be duplicated synthetically in 1869, a development which led to the collapse of the market for naturally grown madder. The development of new, strongly colored synthetic dyes followed quickly, and by

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1600-430: The dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered. Space dyeing is a technique of localized color application that produces a unique multicolored effect. Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments subsequent to manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre-dyed fabrics. Up until the mid-1970s the method was rarely used for commercial clothing production. It

1650-567: The dyes being extracted from plants or animals . Since the mid-19th century, however, humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader range of colors and to render the dyes more stable for washing and general use. Different classes of dyes are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process, from loose fibers through yarn and cloth to complete garments. Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, while nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes , and polyester yarn

1700-439: The fibers before making the yarn, "yarn dyed" refers to dyeing the yarns before producing fabrics, and "piece dyed" or "fabric dyed" refers to dyeing the yarns after they are converted into fabric. The fastness of fiber- and yarn-dyed materials is superior to that of fabrics. The primary objective of the dyeing process is to achieve uniform color application in accordance with a predetermined color matching standard or reference on

1750-534: The importance that this crop had in the economy in addition to the archival documents was the identification of a hundred millstones surveyed by Delio Bischi in the province of Pesaro and Urbino, the original use of which had become completely unknown as their memory had been lost. The woad plant's roots are used in Traditional Chinese medicine to make a medicine known as banlangen ( bǎnlán'gēn 板蓝根 ) that purports to have antiviral properties. Banlangen

1800-423: The mineral azurite . A later study concluded the amount was "not of sufficient magnitude to provide convincing evidence that the copper was deliberately applied as paint". Woad was an important dyeing agent in much of Europe and parts of England during the medieval period. However, dye traders began to import indigo during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, which threatened to replace locally grown woad as

1850-440: The navigator Vasco da Gama in 1498, great amounts of indigo were imported from Asia. Laws were passed in some parts of Europe to protect the woad industry from the competition of the indigo trade. It was proclaimed that indigo caused yarns to rot. This prohibition was repeated in 1594 and again in 1603. In France, Henry IV , in an edict of 1609, forbade under pain of death the use of "the false and pernicious Indian drug". With

1900-508: The objective in dyeing and affinity (to which material is to be dyed). Fastness of color largely depends upon the molecular size of the dyes and the solubility. Larger molecular size serves better washing fastness results. Indigo dyes have a poor wash and rubbing fastness on denim (cotton), so they are used to produce washed-down effects on fabrics. In contrast, vat or reactive dyes are applied to cotton to achieve excellent washing fastness. The next important criterion for selecting dyes

1950-424: The package form and the hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are always dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because of technology. The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is as follows: After this process,

2000-461: The paste mixture resists the later application of dye, thus creating undyed areas within the fabric. Katazome was first invented as an inexpensive and faster alternative to highly-patterned woven brocade fabrics. Over time, katazome evolved into a respected fibre art form of its own. Thin fabrics dyed in the katazome style show the fabric's design on the back of the fabric, whereas thicker or more tightly-woven fabrics generally have

2050-598: The pioneering of not just the industrial use of traditional garment dyeing (dyeing simple cotton or wool garments) but, more importantly, the technique of “complex garment dyeing” which involved dyeing fully fashioned garments which had been constructed from multiple fabric or fiber types (e.g. a jacket made from both nylon and cotton, or linen, nylon and polyurethane coated cotton) in the same bath. Up until its development by Osti (for his clothing brand C.P. Company ), this technique had never been successfully industrially applied in any context. The complexity lay in developing both

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2100-520: The plant family Brassicaceae , have been found on pottery in the Iron Age settlement of Heuneburg , Germany. Seed and pod fragments have also been found in an Iron Age pit at Dragonby, North Lincolnshire, United Kingdom. The Hallstatt burials of the Hochdorf Chieftain's Grave and Hohmichele contained textiles dyed with woad. Melo and Rondão write that woad was known "as far back as the time of

2150-510: The primary blue dye. The translation of vitrum as woad may date to this period. Woad was one of the three staples of the European dyeing industry, along with weld (yellow) and madder (red). Chaucer mentions their use by the dyer ("litestere") in his poem The Former Age : The three colours can be seen together in tapestries such as The Hunt of the Unicorn (1495–1505), though typically it

2200-610: The staining of white or light-colored fabrics in contact with them while in a wet state. The phenomenon of color fading from a fabric or yarn upon immersion in water, solvent, or a comparable liquid medium, arises due to inadequate dyeing or the utilization of inferior quality dyes. Fabric can experience undesired color absorption, resulting in staining, when exposed to water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquids containing unintended dyestuffs or coloring materials. Additionally, direct contact with other dyed materials may cause color transfer through bleeding or sublimation. Stripping

2250-522: The triangle created by Toulouse , Albi and Carcassonne , known as the Lauragais , was for a long time the biggest producer of woad, or pastel , as it was locally known. One writer commented that "woad […] hath made that country the happiest and richest in Europe." The prosperous woad merchants of Toulouse displayed their affluence in splendid mansions, many of which still stand, as the Hôtel de Bernuy and

2300-557: The use of mordants to fix the dye once it is applied. Mordants were often required to alter the hue and intensity of natural dyes and improve color fastness . Chromium salts were until recently extensively used in dyeing wool with synthetic mordant dyes. These were used for economical high color fastness dark shades such as black and navy . Environmental concerns have now restricted their use, and they have been replaced with reactive and metal complex dyes that do not require mordant. There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are

2350-497: The woad ( Isatis tinctoria ), besides the Gaulish loanword glastum (from Proto-Celtic * glastos ' green ' ). The connection seems to be that both glass and the woad are "water-like" ( Latin : vitrum is from Proto-Indo-European *wed-ro- , ' water-like ' ). In terms of usage, the Latin vitrum is more often used to refer to glass rather than woad. The use of

2400-447: The word for the woad might also be understood as "coloured like glass", applied to the plant and the dye made from it. Gillian Carr conducted experiments using indigo pigment derived from woad mixed with different binders to make body paint. The resulting paints yielded colours from "grey-blue, through intense midnight blue, to black". People with modern experiences with woad as a tattoo pigment have claimed that it does not work well, and

2450-579: Was an important source of blue dye and was cultivated throughout Europe, especially in Western and Southern Europe. In medieval times, there were important woad-growing regions in England, Germany and France. Towns such as Toulouse became prosperous from the woad trade. Woad was eventually replaced by the more colourfast Indigofera tinctoria and, in the early 20th century, both woad and Indigofera tinctoria were replaced by synthetic blue dyes. Woad has been used medicinally for centuries. The double use of woad

2500-462: Was used domestically, to overdye old, worn and faded clothes, and also by resellers of used or surplus military clothing. The first notable industrial use of the technique was made by Benetton , which garment dyed its Shetland wool knitwear. In the mid-1970s the Bologna clothing designer Massimo Osti began experimenting with the garment dyeing technique. His experimentation over the next decade, led to

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