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51-579: The Istana Lama was a palace once located at Telok Blangah in Singapore . It was first built for Temenggong Abdul Rahman in 1824. It had since been demolished in 1954. About four years after the Treaty was signed in 1819 which marked Singapore as a British settlement, Temenggong Abdul Rahman , his family and followers moved to the 200 acres of land (part of Teluk Belanga area) as assigned by Sir Stamford Raffles . The European-style mansion known as Istana Lama

102-411: A cemetery . The area flourished under Temenggong Abdul Rahman because of his monopoly over the gutta percha trade. Temenggong Abdul Rahman's eldest son, Tun Haji Abdullah, informally took over as Temenggong of Johor after his death in 1825, followed by his second son Daeng Ibrahim informally in 1833 and officially on 19 August 1841. In 1845, Telok Blangah Hill ( Malay : Bukit Telok Blangah )

153-410: A form of baju (shirt) with four pesak (side panels) and two kekek (small gussets) under the armholes so that they fit and hang well., although the more contemporary adaptations tend to omit these features in their design. The baju is traditionally worn by men with trousers called the seluar . The seluar are traditionally wide at the top, fastened with a running string called tali, and closer at

204-468: A formal attire, a skirt-type adornment is added, which is either the samping , made out of songket , tenun cloth or the sarong , made out of cotton or a polyester mix. Jet-black or dark-colored headgear called the songkok to be worn to complete the formal attire. For a ceremonial attire or known in Malay as sepersalinan , commonly worn during cultural functions, the songkok headgear typically replaced with

255-883: A green and red silk samping. In modern times, the Central Band of the Royal Malay Regiment that commonly perform in the ceremonial dress, became the most senior and the official central band of the Malaysian Army that is dedicated to providing ceremonial honours and music to the Yang di-Pertuan Agong , the Prime Minister , the Chief Justice , the President of the Senate , and the Speaker of

306-513: A hostel for their workers. In 1954, the company put up the former palace for sale. During that point, there were a few parties suggested that the former palace to be renovated as a museum to showcase Malay handicrafts, furniture and old photos related to the Johor Sultanate . Following which, the former palace was eventually sold to the Bata company and demolished on that same year. On 9 April 1964,

357-477: A roll of cloth which could be used as a bag, a blanket or a weapon The Baju Melayu is commonly worn by Malay men in Southeast Asia during major Islamic festival celebrations like Eid ul-Fitr , Eid al-Adha and Islamic New Year , particularly in countries with significant Malay populations; Brunei , Indonesia , Malaysia , Singapore , Thailand , and Philippines . In Brunei and Malaysia where Malays are

408-529: A single piece of cloth for both sexes. This was the description by Fei Xin , a Chinese Muslim and an Arabic scholar who wrote an account about pre-Islamic Pahang in the Xingcha Shenglan . The rise of Melaka Sultanate in the 15th century brought about significant changes to the Malay clothing style. As an important trading port, Melaka emerged not only as a commercial, but also a cultural and religious centre. The strong infusion of Islamic values as well as

459-409: A variety of materials including gold, silver, and precious or semi-precious stones. The studs may also be connected with a light metal chain which will be concealed behind the shirt when the placket is fastened. Contrary to Teluk Belanga style, the samping in this style is typically worn above the baju, in a style known as dagang dalam . This style of Baju Melayu is considered the most common throughout

510-423: Is hemmed with stiff stitching called tulang belut (literally eel's spine) and ends with a small loop at the top of one side to fit a singular button known as kancing . A type of button, set in a cluster of diamonds is called kunang-kunang sekebun , while the golden button is called garam sebuku . The shirt is worn together with a samping or sarong which either wrapped below the shirt ('dagang dalam') or above

561-451: Is located at Mount Faber Road, near the junction with Telok Blangah Road. There are several century-old Chinese temples constructed to meet the spiritual and social needs of the Chinese immigrants who settled in the area around Telok Blangah in the late 1800s. Ban Siew San Kuan Imm Tong (萬壽山觀音堂) and Koon Seng Ting (堃成堂) were built in 1880 and managed to weather through more than 100 years at

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612-701: Is popular in provinces with large Malay populations such as Riau , the Riau Islands , West Kalimantan and a few other provinces mainly in Sumatera and other places where the presence of ethnic Malays are dominant. Recently, the Baju Melayu has become more popular and is not only worn at traditional events, but also on informal occasions. Government officials in Riau and other places wear them proudly during official events (even national events). The Betawi version of Baju Melayu

663-567: Is rich with Malay aristocratic history of past royal events. According to the Malay Annals , Sang Nila Utama 's boat ran into a storm and he threw everything overboard, including his crown before landing just off Telok Blangah beach. The area gained prominence again during the British period when Sir Stamford Raffles in 1823 assigned Temenggong Abdul Rahman (died 1825) and his followers 200 acres (0.81 km ) of land for their residence and

714-451: Is traditionally worn by men in Brunei , Malaysia , Singapore , parts of Indonesia (especially Sumatra and Kalimantan ), southern Philippines , and southern Thailand . In its formal form, Baju Melayu is the national dress of Malaysia and Brunei , typically worn during official events and functions. A basic combination of Baju Melayu attire comes in two main parts. The first being

765-522: The Harbourlights condominium, remnants of the palace's historic Dutch-bricked platform structure, its drain network and nearby former gate posts can be still seen among its surrounding overgrown vegetation. Telok Blangah The region is named after the bay . Telok Blangah ( Jawi : تلوق بلڠه) is a Malay compound of blanga "a type of cooking pot" and telok "bay" and so literally means "cooking pot bay", so named on account of its shape. In

816-417: The baju (long-sleeved shirt) itself which has either raised stiff collar known as the cekak musang collar (literally fox's leash) or the round neckline with a short slit opening down the front, known as the teluk belanga collar. The second part is the trousers called celana or seluar . The two parts are made out of the same type of fabric which is usually cotton, or a mixture of polyester and cotton. In

867-574: The enlisted rank personnel of the Malaysian Armed Forces , is inspired from the wearing style of Baju Melayu, by having white tunic coats and trousers, worn together with dark green songkok and green and gold brocade samping . This tradition dates back to the establishment of the Royal Malay Regiment in 1932. Its original regimental service dress uniform , consisted of a green velvet songkok, spotless white top and trousers as well as

918-417: The tengkolok . The normal baju can sometimes be substituted with a combination of tekua (a type of short sleeves jacket). In a more elaborate dress, baju sikap or baju layang (a type of coat) and pending (ornamental belt buckle) are worn. Optional accessories include a kris tucked into the samping folded at the waist, and a traditional capal (sandal). The term 'Baju Melayu' literally means

969-446: The 'Malay shirt '. The word baju ( Jawi : باجو ‎ ) is derived from Persian : بازو , lit.   'upper arm', while Melayu ( Jawi : ملايو ‎ ) is the endonym for Malay peoples . The earliest literary reference to the term 'Baju Melayu' was from the Malay Annals , written sometime between 15th to 16th centuries. However, its early usage in the literature might possibly in generic form, referring to

1020-533: The Bata Shoe Factory was officially opened by the then Finance Minister Dr Goh Keng Swee on about half of its former site from the bottom, with the address of 66 Telok Blangah Road and was granted a 30-year lease in May. The factory eventually closed and was demolished by 1994. In 1995, a condominium known as Harbourlights was built on the former site of the shoe factory and was completed by 1997. Currently, near

1071-658: The House of Representatives . In the Police force, the design of the ceremonial uniform for the non-gazetted officers of the Royal Malaysian Police is identical to that of armed forces, but comes with blue and black brocade samping. An almost similar design can also be found adopted in the full-dress uniform of the Royal Brunei Armed Forces with only differences are in colour variants. In traditional Silat trainings,

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1122-505: The Temonggong in 1833. It was noted for being the birthplace for Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim's son Wan Abu Bakar , his eventual successor and future Sultan of Johor , who was born on 3 February 1833. Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim was officially made known on 19 August 1841, and upon becoming the de facto Maharajah of Johor on 10 March 1855, he began to administer his territory Iskandar Puteri from this residence. Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim died in

1173-491: The dominant ethnicity, Baju Melayu is the national dress for men. Day to day usage is maintained in general religious occasions, like visiting mosques or for a religious gathering, or in other social functions like weddings. A full Cekak Musang attire in black, worn together with a black songkok and samping embroidered with gold thread, is considered a formal dress. It is the national attire required by protocol during official national events, especially highly formal ones like

1224-443: The extensive influence brought by multi-ethnic trading communities, encouraged the development of different aspects of Malay culture; language, literature, arts and cultures. The strong Islamic influence had transformed the early Malay clothing styles in accordance to Islamic values. The first literary reference to 'Baju Melayu' was from the Malay Annals written during the heyday of Melaka Sultanate. The Malay Annals attributes

1275-434: The fore during the reign of Abu Bakar of Johor (1862-1895). Numerous reforms were undertaken during his rule, including the modernisation of Malay clothing style. A more elegant style of Baju Kurung was introduced with a shortened hem of the shirt to the level of the back, three pockets and a round neckline with a short slit opening down the front. The style was named after the former capital of Johor , Telok Blangah , and

1326-405: The general Malay clothing, rather than a specific type of outfit. An alternative term, the 'Baju Kurung' ( Jawi : باجو كوروڠ ‎ ) literally 'concealed' or 'enclosed dress', which was also a generic one, is thought to be introduced later, supposedly coined for the design created by Temenggung Tun Hasan during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Shah, that manage to conceal most of body parts. It

1377-457: The house on 31 January 1862 and was buried at the nearby Makam on the following day, his son Wan Abu Bakar succeed him as the Temenggong on 2 February 1862 and soon moved his residence to Tyersall . Temenggong Abu Bakar had once suggested the former palace to operate as a Malay high school. However, as there was an English school that existed not far from the palace, the idea of opening the school

1428-428: The introduction of court protocol and dress codes and other rules to Sultan Muhammad Shah (1424-1444). The legal code of the sultanate, Undang-Undang Melaka is also thought first promulgated in this period. During Muhammad Shah's reign, it was decreed that the manner of Malay dress must be distinct from those of the foreign lands, be it from atas angin (Arab, India and Europe) or bawah angin (China and Khmer). It

1479-399: The legs where it extends to below the knees. The styles of seluar include the seluar Aceh , seluar gadah which reaches to the ankles and seluar pendek which terminates at about the middle of the thighs. The seluar panjang are long and are sometimes buttoned at the feet. The different styles of Baju Melayu can be generally distinguished in the neck opening design of the baju , as well as

1530-403: The new style of Malay dress. In 1866, following the shift of the capital to Tanjung Puteri (later known as Johor Bahru), in commemorating the event, the new style of Baju Melayu was named after the old capital. Among modifications done to included a shortened hem of the shirt to the level of the back and three front pockets. The most striking feature of this style is that the shirt's neck opening

1581-401: The official celebration of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong or Sultan of Brunei 's birthday, the sworn in of a Prime Minister and cabinet members, and the appointment of ambassadors. Malaysian ambassadors presenting their credentials to foreign heads of state are also required to wear the black Baju Melayu. The white Baju Melayu is worn by the royalties when mourning the passing away of a member of

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1632-526: The olden maps, Telok Blangah's name spelling was written as Teluk Blanga, Teluk Belanga and Teluk Blangah. Teluk Blanga is known as 石叻門 in Hokkien ( POJ : Sit-Lat mn̂g), meaning "Singapore gate". It is the namesake of the Teluk Belanga (modern Malay spelling) style of Baju Melayu , the traditional costume of Malay men. Historically, this area is as old as the thirteenth century city of Temasek . The area

1683-563: The region and has been adopted as the formal dress in Malaysia and Brunei. In other parts of Southeast Asia, a type of dress identical to the Cekak Musang style is also commonly known as Teluk Belanga or its other spelling variants; taruk balanga ( Maranao - Tausūg ) and taluak balango ( Minangkabau ). The third but less known style is Kolar Tunku. It was originally made for the first Prime Minister of Malaysia , Tunku Abdul Rahman and has

1734-401: The reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (1459–1477). The five basic parts are garment ( baju ), bottom ( seluar ), headgear ( destar ), sash ( sebai ), waist (kain samping). Further improvisations took place during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Shah (1488-1511), when Temenggung Tun Hassan introduced an expanded version of the shirt with a more loose-fitting shape and lengthened sleeves to wrist level. It

1785-494: The reign of Abu Bakar by a resident of Teluk Belanga called Haji Othman or Tuan Busu or Wan Busu. Initially called Baju Wan , it has the same cut with Teluk Belanga style but with a high collar split and tighten with 5 buttons. This style went on to become the most popular style until modern times, while the Teluk Belanga style remains a unique clothing style to the state of Johor. The traditional Baju Melayu commonly features

1836-478: The royal family. In civil service, Baju Melayu is an alternative formal attire to be worn on Fridays or in any highly ceremonial events. Some private companies also allowed their male workers to wear Baju Melayu on Fridays, whereas others have it as a policy. Baju Melayu is also adopted as the formal uniform for Fridays in both primary and secondary public schools. In Indonesia, both the Baju Melayu in both collar styles (and other Malay clothes such as Baju Kurung )

1887-509: The same cut as Cekak Musang and Teluk Belanga but different collar's design. It took inspiration from Mandarin collar that comes with rounded collar's corner. Unlike Cekak Musang style, it has no button at the collar, leaving only three buttons on the placket. The Baju Melayu is also the source of inspiration for a number of uniforms worn by several uniformed services and martial arts organizations. The official full dress uniform or baju istiadat ('ceremonial uniform'), or uniform number 1 for

1938-490: The same location. Both temples were proposed for conservation under the Draft Master Plan 2013 by Urban Redevelopment Authority. Another prominent old temple in the area will be Telok Blangah Ting Kong Beo (直落布蘭雅天公廟) which was built in 1923 or earlier. Baju Melayu Baju Melayu ( Jawi : باجو ملايو ‎) is a traditional Malay costume for men, originated from the court of Malacca Sultanate and

1989-401: The shirt ('dagang luar'). In the past, only members of the royal family and aristocrats were allowed to wear the samping in dagang luar style. The style literally means the 'fox's leash', a name used to describe the design of its collar. It was also introduced during the reign of Sultan Abu Bakar, by a resident of Telok Blangah called Haji Othman or Tuan Busu or Wan Busu. Its original name

2040-407: The traditional outfits for both sexes. Men and women have their hair in a knot, and are clad with a single piece of cloth. Girls of rich families wear four or five golden circles on their foreheads, and the daughters of the common people use strings of colored glass beads instead. — Xingcha Shenglan . The early Malay clothing style, like most of the tropical world, was simple and using

2091-406: The uniform is commonly consist of a baggy black trousers and a black long sleeves baju melayu. Some schools require the practitioners to wear bengkung (belts) during training, with different colours signifying different rank, while some silat schools replace the bengkung with a modern buckled belt. Headdress is optional but donning a black bandana is popular. A sarong can also be worn along with

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2142-414: The wearing styles and combinations, depending on status and regions. But the most common syles of Baju Melayu are as follows: This style is named after Telok Blangah in Singapore , where the administrative capital of Johor was located under the rule of Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim . His son Abu Bakar who succeeded in 1862, initiated various reforms during his administration including the introduction of

2193-611: Was Baju Wan and comes with the same cut with Teluk Belanga, but with a raised collar. The placket of the baju will seem to form a third of the baju from the top when it is worn with the kain samping or kain sarung . However, the hemline of the baju actually runs to the middle of the lap. The placket typically has three to five buttonholes and is fastened together by dress studs called kancing or sitat which are not unlike those used in Western-style formal dress shirts . The studs usually have screw-on backs and can be made from

2244-523: Was Ungku Modh. Khalif (or Khalid), the younger brother of Sultan Abu Bakar in 1900. Another Malay royal cemetery and shrine nearby is Keramat Bukit Kasita at Bukit Purmei , which is the final resting place of the Riau-Lingga royal family, a split of the Johor royal family. Telok Blangah Road was officially named in 1907. The sacred shrine of Puteri Raden Mas Ayu , a sixteenth-century Javanese princess,

2295-513: Was believed that from this era, the early form of a distinctive Malay dress, consisting of the basic kain (cloth), baju (shirt), and destar (headdress), began to take shape in Melakan society. In later years of the sultanate, a proper ceremonial dress of a Malay men, called lima persalinan ('five clothing parts') which was described in the Hikayat Hang Tuah , is said to appear during

2346-412: Was built and completed in 1824. Temenggong Abdul Rahman died in this house on 8 December 1825 and was buried at the nearby Makam Diraja Teluk Blangah . His eldest son Tun Haji Abdullah first informally succeed him as the de facto Temenggong of Johor . The house was later refurnished with concrete structures by his second son Daeng Ibrahim in 1830, who would informally succeed Tun Haji Abdullah as

2397-483: Was introduced by Dato' Jaafar Muhammad , who would become the first Menteri Besar of Johor . It was said that the new style was invented to differentiate Abu Bakar's followers clothing style with that old Melakan clothing style worn by the descendants of Sultan Hussin and their followers that resided in Istana Kampong Glam . Another popular style called Cekak Musang was also said to had been introduced during

2448-446: Was no longer being suggested. The former palace was then given to a Chinese towkay who was a friend to the royalty. In 1931, the Chinese towkay soon rented out the former palace to a German couple B. Hackmeier and his wife Bertha and they repurposed it into a hotel named Hotel Bellevue. Following the end of Japanese occupation of Singapore , the former palace was sold to a company Guan Seng Kee in 1951. The company utilized it to serve as

2499-686: Was renamed to Mount Faber after Captain Charles Edward Faber . Following Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim ’s death in 1862, his first son Temenggong Abu Bakar succeed him and moved his Istana to Tyersall . In 1885, when Maharaja Abu Bakar became the Sultan of Johor , he moved to Johor Bahru . The former royal audience hall (now a mosque, Masjid Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim ) and the Johor Royal Mausoleum still remain today at Telok Blangah Road, near VivoCity and Sentosa Gateway. The last to be buried

2550-408: Was said that the term Baju Kurung ('concealed dress') was then coined for the creation as it successfully concealed most of body parts. The clothing style along with other Malay cultural values were then spread through Malayisation of the region, by many succeeding Malay sultanates. The Melakan style of dress remains in Malay societies for the next hundreds of years before it was brought again to

2601-438: Was this term, that embodies the philosophical foundation for the dress of both men and women, that became popular for the next hundreds of years after Melaka Sultanate . However, in modern Malaysia, the men's outfit was renamed 'Baju Melayu' to distinguish it from the women's outfit which remain to be known as Baju Kurung . Nevertheless, the generic use of the term 'Baju Kurung' survived in Singapore and it continued to refer to

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