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106-685: Haulover Creek is a coastal stream that runs through the center of Belize City and discharges into the Caribbean Sea . It is known for being the inlet of the Belize River , and separating the northern and southern areas of Belize City. There are multiple bridges built across it such as the Swing Bridge (Belize) , which is the oldest of its kind in Central America , and the Belcan Bridge , which

212-527: A navy and some form of coast guard . Coasts, especially those with beaches and warm water, attract tourists often leading to the development of seaside resort communities. In many island nations such as those of the Mediterranean , South Pacific Ocean and Caribbean , tourism is central to the economy . Coasts offer recreational activities such as swimming, fishing, surfing, boating, and sunbathing . Growth management and coastal management can be

318-430: A wave shoaling process described below. A tsunami can occur in any tidal state and even at low tide can still inundate coastal areas. On April 1, 1946, the 8.6 M w   Aleutian Islands earthquake occurred with a maximum Mercalli intensity of VI ( Strong ). It generated a tsunami which inundated Hilo on the island of Hawaii with a 14-metre high (46 ft) surge. Between 165 and 173 were killed. The area where

424-478: A challenge for coastal local authorities who often struggle to provide the infrastructure required by new residents, and poor management practices of construction often leave these communities and infrastructure vulnerable to processes like coastal erosion and sea level rise . In many of these communities, management practices such as beach nourishment or when the coastal infrastructure is no longer financially sustainable, managed retreat to remove communities from

530-427: A few minutes at a time. The Tauredunum event was a large tsunami on Lake Geneva in 563 CE, caused by sedimentary deposits destabilised by a landslide. In the 1950s, it was discovered that tsunamis larger than had previously been believed possible can be caused by giant submarine landslides . These large volumes of rapidly displaced water transfer energy at a faster rate than the water can absorb. Their existence

636-432: A huge wave. As the tsunami approaches the coast and the waters become shallow, wave shoaling compresses the wave and its speed decreases below 80 kilometres per hour (50 mph). Its wavelength diminishes to less than 20 kilometres (12 mi) and its amplitude grows enormously—in accord with Green's law . Since the wave still has the same very long period , the tsunami may take minutes to reach full height. Except for

742-537: A large problem of awareness and preparedness, as exemplified by the eruption and collapse of Anak Krakatoa in 2018 , which killed 426 and injured thousands when no warning was available. It is still regarded that lateral landslides and ocean-entering pyroclastic currents are most likely to generate the largest and most hazardous waves from volcanism; however, field investigation of the Tongan event , as well as developments in numerical modelling methods, currently aim to expand

848-528: A massive landslide from Monte Toc entered the reservoir behind the Vajont Dam in Italy. The resulting wave surged over the 262-metre (860 ft)-high dam by 250 metres (820 ft) and destroyed several towns. Around 2,000 people died. Scientists named these waves megatsunamis . Some geologists claim that large landslides from volcanic islands, e.g. Cumbre Vieja on La Palma ( Cumbre Vieja tsunami hazard ) in

954-655: A much higher capacity for carbon sequestration than many terrestrial ecosystems , and as such can play a critical role in the near-future to help mitigate climate change effects by uptake of atmospheric anthropogenic carbon dioxide . However, the economic importance of coasts makes many of these communities vulnerable to climate change , which causes increases in extreme weather and sea level rise, as well as related issues like coastal erosion , saltwater intrusion , and coastal flooding . Other coastal issues, such as marine pollution , marine debris , coastal development, and marine ecosystem destruction, further complicate

1060-625: A proper name to the coast of the Ligurian Sea , in the form riviera ligure , then shortened to riviera . Historically, the Ligurian Riviera extended from Capo Corvo (Punta Bianca) south of Genoa , north and west into what is now French territory past Monaco and sometimes as far as Marseilles . Today, this coast is divided into the Italian Riviera and the French Riviera , although

1166-435: A provider of sediment for coastlines of tropical islands. Like the ocean which shapes them, coasts are a dynamic environment with constant change. The Earth 's natural processes, particularly sea level rises , waves and various weather phenomena, have resulted in the erosion , accretion and reshaping of coasts as well as flooding and creation of continental shelves and drowned river valleys ( rias ). More and more of

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1272-570: A reference sea level. A large tsunami may feature multiple waves arriving over a period of hours, with significant time between the wave crests. The first wave to reach the shore may not have the highest run-up. About 80% of tsunamis occur in the Pacific Ocean, but they are possible wherever there are large bodies of water, including lakes. However, tsunami interactions with shorelines and the seafloor topography are extremely complex, which leaves some countries more vulnerable than others. For example,

1378-462: A ridge and a trough. In the case of a propagating wave like a tsunami, either may be the first to arrive. If the first part to arrive at the shore is the ridge, a massive breaking wave or sudden flooding will be the first effect noticed on land. However, if the first part to arrive is a trough, a drawback will occur as the shoreline recedes dramatically, exposing normally submerged areas. The drawback can exceed hundreds of metres, and people unaware of

1484-456: A shoreline configuration. Swash is the shoreward flow after the break, backwash is the water flow back down the beach. The relative strength of flow in the swash and backwash determines what size grains are deposited or eroded. This is dependent on how the wave breaks and the slope of the shore. Depending on the form of the breaking wave, its energy can carry granular material up the beach and deposit it, or erode it by carrying more material down

1590-467: A significant tsunami, such as the 1977 Sumba and 1933 Sanriku events. Tsunamis have a small wave height offshore, and a very long wavelength (often hundreds of kilometres long, whereas normal ocean waves have a wavelength of only 30 or 40 metres), which is why they generally pass unnoticed at sea, forming only a slight swell usually about 300 millimetres (12 in) above the normal sea surface. They grow in height when they reach shallower water, in

1696-425: A slightly different way in discussions of legal and economic boundaries (see territorial waters and international waters ) or when considering the geography of coastal landforms or the ecological systems operating through the continental shelf ( marine coastal ecosystems ). The research on coastal waters often divides into these separate areas too. The dynamic fluid nature of the ocean means that all components of

1802-628: A transoceanic tsunami has not occurred within recorded history. Susceptible locations are believed to be the Big Island of Hawaii , Fogo in the Cape Verde Islands , La Reunion in the Indian Ocean , and Cumbre Vieja on the island of La Palma in the Canary Islands ; along with other volcanic ocean islands. This is because large masses of relatively unconsolidated volcanic material occurs on

1908-445: A tsunami can be calculated by obtaining the square root of the depth of the water in metres multiplied by the acceleration due to gravity (approximated to 10 m/s ). For example, if the Pacific Ocean is considered to have a depth of 5000 metres, the velocity of a tsunami would be √ 5000 × 10 = √ 50000 ≈ 224 metres per second (730 ft/s), which equates to a speed of about 806 kilometres per hour (501 mph). This

2014-434: A tsunami can be generated when thrust faults associated with convergent or destructive plate boundaries move abruptly, resulting in water displacement, owing to the vertical component of movement involved. Movement on normal (extensional) faults can also cause displacement of the seabed, but only the largest of such events (typically related to flexure in the outer trench swell ) cause enough displacement to give rise to

2120-473: A tsunami, which is that of an extraordinarily high tidal bore . Tsunamis and tides both produce waves of water that move inland, but in the case of a tsunami, the inland movement of water may be much greater, giving the impression of an incredibly high and forceful tide. In recent years, the term "tidal wave" has fallen out of favour, especially in the scientific community, because the causes of tsunamis have nothing to do with those of tides , which are produced by

2226-529: A wide range of sessile animals (e.g. mussels , starfish , barnacles ) and various kinds of seaweeds . In physical oceanography , a shore is the wider fringe that is geologically modified by the action of the body of water past and present, while the beach is at the edge of the shore, representing the intertidal zone where there is one. Along tropical coasts with clear, nutrient-poor water, coral reefs can often be found between depths of 1–50 m (3.3–164.0 ft). According to an atlas prepared by

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2332-541: Is a coastline that has experienced a fall in sea level, because of either a global sea-level change, or local uplift. Emergent coastlines are identifiable by the coastal landforms , which are above the high tide mark, such as raised beaches . In contrast, a submergent coastline is one where the sea level has risen, due to a global sea-level change, local subsidence , or isostatic rebound . Submergent coastlines are identifiable by their submerged, or "drowned" landforms, such as rias (drowned valleys) and fjords According to

2438-467: Is a series of waves in a water body caused by the displacement of a large volume of water, generally in an ocean or a large lake . Earthquakes , volcanic eruptions and underwater explosions (including detonations, landslides , glacier calvings , meteorite impacts and other disturbances) above or below water all have the potential to generate a tsunami. Unlike normal ocean waves, which are generated by wind , or tides , which are in turn generated by

2544-612: Is also accustomed to tsunamis, with earthquakes of varying magnitudes regularly occurring off the coast of the island. Tsunamis are an often underestimated hazard in the Mediterranean Sea and parts of Europe. Of historical and current (with regard to risk assumptions) importance are the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and tsunami (which was caused by the Azores–Gibraltar Transform Fault ), the 1783 Calabrian earthquakes , each causing several tens of thousands of deaths and

2650-557: Is also used to refer to the phenomenon because the waves most often are generated by seismic activity such as earthquakes. Prior to the rise of the use of the term tsunami in English, scientists generally encouraged the use of the term seismic sea wave rather than tidal wave . However, like tidal wave , seismic sea wave is not a completely accurate term, as forces other than earthquakes—including underwater landslides , volcanic eruptions, underwater explosions, land or ice slumping into

2756-528: Is connected to marine pollution which can occur from a number of sources: Marine debris (garbage and industrial debris); the transportation of petroleum in tankers , increasing the probability of large oil spills ; small oil spills created by large and small vessels, which flush bilge water into the ocean. Marine pollution occurs when substances used or spread by humans, such as industrial , agricultural and residential waste , particles , noise , excess carbon dioxide or invasive organisms enter

2862-491: Is designed to help accurately forecast the passage of tsunamis across oceans as well as how tsunami waves interact with shorelines. The term "tsunami" is a borrowing from the Japanese tsunami 津波 , meaning "harbour wave." For the plural, one can either follow ordinary English practice and add an s , or use an invariable plural as in the Japanese. Some English speakers alter the word's initial / ts / to an / s / by dropping

2968-415: Is extremely important to geologists. These provide vital clues for reconstructing the geography of ancient continents ( paleogeography ). The locations of these beds show the extent of ancient seas at particular points in geological time, and provide clues to the magnitudes of tides in the distant past. Sediments deposited in the shoreface are preserved as lenses of sandstone in which the upper part of

3074-408: Is more important. Macrotidal coasts lack barrier islands and lagoons , and are characterized by funnel-shaped estuaries containing sand ridges aligned with tidal currents. Wave action is much more important for determining bedforms of sediments deposited along mesotidal and microtidal coasts than in macrotidal coasts. Waves erode coastline as they break on shore releasing their energy; the larger

3180-423: Is moved along the coastline by the waves. This forms an abrasion or cliffed coast . Sediment deposited by rivers is the dominant influence on the amount of sediment located in the case of coastlines that have estuaries. Today, riverine deposition at the coast is often blocked by dams and other human regulatory devices, which remove the sediment from the stream by causing it to be deposited inland. Coral reefs are

3286-515: Is not favoured by the scientific community because it might give the false impression of a causal relationship between tides and tsunamis. Tsunamis generally consist of a series of waves, with periods ranging from minutes to hours, arriving in a so-called " wave train ". Wave heights of tens of metres can be generated by large events. Although the impact of tsunamis is limited to coastal areas, their destructive power can be enormous, and they can affect entire ocean basins. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami

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3392-763: Is now Shakespear Regional Park at the tip of the Whangaparāoa Peninsula in the Auckland Region of New Zealand ; the attempt failed. There has been considerable speculation about the possibility of using nuclear weapons to cause tsunamis near an enemy coastline. Nuclear testing in the Pacific Proving Ground by the United States generated poor results. In Operation Crossroads in July 1946, two 20-kilotonne-of-TNT (84 TJ) bombs were detonated, one in

3498-412: Is the counterintuitive observation that the coastline of a landmass does not have a well-defined length. This results from the fractal curve –like properties of coastlines; i.e., the fact that a coastline typically has a fractal dimension . Although the "paradox of length" was previously noted by Hugo Steinhaus , the first systematic study of this phenomenon was by Lewis Fry Richardson , and it

3604-426: Is the formula used for calculating the velocity of shallow-water waves. Even the deep ocean is shallow in this sense because a tsunami wave is so long (horizontally from crest to crest) by comparison. The reason for the Japanese name "harbour wave" is that sometimes a village's fishermen would sail out, and encounter no unusual waves while out at sea fishing, and come back to land to find their village devastated by

3710-501: Is used as the finishing line for the annual La Ruta Maya river challenge. This creek has been used by fishing boats to easily access the center of Belize City and the Caribbean Sea. The creek still hosts the fleet of traditional fishing wooden boats (mostly from Sarteneja, Chunox and Copper bank) moored on posts to this present day (while the remaining Belize city wooden boats known as "sandlighters" that used to dock here now anchor in

3816-430: The 1883 eruption of Krakatoa , and the 2022 Hunga Tonga–Hunga Ha'apai eruption . Over 20% of all fatalities caused by volcanism during the past 250 years are estimated to have been caused by volcanogenic tsunamis. Debate has persisted over the origins and source mechanisms of these types of tsunamis, such as those generated by Krakatoa in 1883, and they remain lesser understood than their seismic relatives. This poses

3922-666: The 1908 Messina earthquake and tsunami. The tsunami claimed more than 123,000 lives in Sicily and Calabria and is among the deadliest natural disasters in modern Europe. The Storegga Slide in the Norwegian Sea and some examples of tsunamis affecting the British Isles refer to landslide and meteotsunamis , predominantly and less to earthquake-induced waves. As early as 426 BC the Greek historian Thucydides inquired in his book History of

4028-456: The Aegean Sea . The following articles describe some coastal landforms: "Coastal waters" (or "coastal seas") is a rather general term used differently in different contexts, ranging geographically from the waters within a few kilometers of the coast, through to the entire continental shelf which may stretch for more than a hundred kilometers from land. Thus the term coastal waters is used in

4134-413: The Canary Islands , may be able to generate megatsunamis that can cross oceans, but this is disputed by many others. In general, landslides generate displacements mainly in the shallower parts of the coastline, and there is conjecture about the nature of large landslides that enter the water. This has been shown to subsequently affect water in enclosed bays and lakes, but a landslide large enough to cause

4240-452: The US EPA considers this region to extend much further offshore. "Coastal waters" has specific meanings in the context of commercial coastal shipping , and somewhat different meanings in the context of naval littoral warfare . Oceanographers and marine biologists have yet other takes. Coastal waters have a wide range of marine habitats from enclosed estuaries to the open waters of

4346-610: The United Nations , about 44% of the human population lives within 150 km (93 mi) of the sea as of 2013 . Due to its importance in society and its high population concentrations, the coast is important for major parts of the global food and economic system, and they provide many ecosystem services to humankind. For example, important human activities happen in port cities. Coastal fisheries (commercial, recreational, and subsistence) and aquaculture are major economic activities and create jobs, livelihoods, and protein for

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4452-670: The Western Interior Seaway , a shallow sea that flooded central North America during the late Cretaceous Period (about 100 to 66 million years ago). These are beautifully exposed along the Book Cliffs of Utah and Colorado . The following articles describe the various geologic processes that affect a coastal zone: Larger animals that live in coastal areas include puffins , sea turtles and rockhopper penguins , among many others. Sea snails and various kinds of barnacles live on rocky coasts and scavenge on food deposited by

4558-523: The gravitational pull of the Moon and the Sun , a tsunami is generated by the displacement of water from a large event. Tsunami waves do not resemble normal undersea currents or sea waves because their wavelength is far longer. Rather than appearing as a breaking wave , a tsunami may instead initially resemble a rapidly rising tide . For this reason, it is often referred to as a tidal wave , although this usage

4664-469: The ocean and cause harmful effects there. The majority of this waste (80%) comes from land-based activity, although marine transportation significantly contributes as well. It is a combination of chemicals and trash, most of which comes from land sources and is washed or blown into the ocean. This pollution results in damage to the environment, to the health of all organisms, and to economic structures worldwide. Since most inputs come from land, either via

4770-596: The ocean . Floating oceanic debris tends to accumulate at the center of gyres and on coastlines, frequently washing aground, when it is known as beach litter or tidewrack. Deliberate disposal of wastes at sea is called ocean dumping . Naturally occurring debris, such as driftwood and drift seeds , are also present. With the increasing use of plastic , human influence has become an issue as many types of (petrochemical) plastics do not biodegrade quickly, as would natural or organic materials. The largest single type of plastic pollution (~10%) and majority of large plastic in

4876-444: The rivers , sewage or the atmosphere, it means that continental shelves are more vulnerable to pollution. Air pollution is also a contributing factor by carrying off iron, carbonic acid, nitrogen , silicon, sulfur, pesticides or dust particles into the ocean. The pollution often comes from nonpoint sources such as agricultural runoff , wind-blown debris , and dust. These nonpoint sources are largely due to runoff that enters

4982-427: The "t," since English does not natively permit /ts/ at the beginning of words, though the original Japanese pronunciation is /ts/ . The term has become commonly accepted in English, although its literal Japanese meaning is not necessarily descriptive of the waves, which do not occur only in harbours. Tsunamis are sometimes referred to as tidal waves . This once-popular term derives from the most common appearance of

5088-736: The French use the term "Riviera" to refer to the Italian Riviera and call the French portion the "Côte d'Azur". As a result of the fame of the Ligurian rivieras, the term came into English to refer to any shoreline, especially one that is sunny, topographically diverse and popular with tourists. Such places using the term include the Australian Riviera in Queensland and the Turkish Riviera along

5194-785: The Great Lakes, the Aegean Sea, the English Channel, and the Balearic Islands, where they are common enough to have a local name, rissaga . In Sicily they are called marubbio and in Nagasaki Bay, they are called abiki . Some examples of destructive meteotsunamis include 31 March 1979 at Nagasaki and 15 June 2006 at Menorca, the latter causing damage in the tens of millions of euros. Meteotsunamis should not be confused with storm surges , which are local increases in sea level associated with

5300-528: The Pacific coasts of the United States and Mexico lie adjacent to each other, but the United States has recorded ten tsunamis in the region since 1788, while Mexico has recorded twenty-five since 1732. Similarly, Japan has had more than a hundred tsunamis in recorded history, while the neighbouring island of Taiwan has registered only two, in 1781 and 1867. All waves have a positive and negative peak; that is,

5406-577: The Peloponnesian War about the causes of tsunami, and was the first to argue that ocean earthquakes must be the cause. The oldest human record of a tsunami dates back to 479 BC , in the Greek colony of Potidaea , thought to be triggered by an earthquake. The tsunami may have saved the colony from an invasion by the Achaemenid Empire . The cause, in my opinion, of this phenomenon must be sought in

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5512-534: The United Nations has declared 2021–2030 the UN Decade on Ecosystem Restoration , but restoration of coastal ecosystems has received insufficient attention. Since coasts are constantly changing, a coastline's exact perimeter cannot be determined; this measurement challenge is called the coastline paradox . The term coastal zone is used to refer to a region where interactions of sea and land processes occur. Both

5618-450: The air over and one underwater within the shallow waters of the 50-metre (164 ft) deep lagoon at Bikini Atoll . The bombs detonated about 6 km (3.7 mi; 3.2 nmi) from the nearest island, where the waves were no higher than 3 to 4 m (9.8 to 13.1 ft) when they reached the shoreline. Other underwater tests, mainly Operation Hardtack I /Wahoo in deep water and Operation Hardtack I/Umbrella in shallow water, confirmed

5724-571: The average sea level rose by 15–25 cm (6–10 in), with an increase of 2.3 mm (0.091 in) per year since the 1970s. This was faster than the sea level had ever risen over at least the past 3,000 years. The rate accelerated to 4.62 mm (0.182 in)/yr for the decade 2013–2022. Climate change due to human activities is the main cause. Between 1993 and 2018, melting ice sheets and glaciers accounted for 44% of sea level rise , with another 42% resulting from thermal expansion of water . International attention to address

5830-417: The average wind wave and swell conditions are relatively mild. Low energy coasts typically change slowly, and tend to be depositional environments. High energy coasts are exposed to the direct impact of waves and storms, and are generally erosional environments. High energy storm events can make large changes to a coastline, and can move significant amounts of sediment over a short period, sometimes changing

5936-461: The coast of Wales and other countries. Coastal fish , also called inshore fish or neritic fish, inhabit the sea between the shoreline and the edge of the continental shelf . Since the continental shelf is usually less than 200 metres (660 ft) deep, it follows that pelagic coastal fish are generally epipelagic fish , inhabiting the sunlit epipelagic zone . Coastal fish can be contrasted with oceanic fish or offshore fish , which inhabit

6042-812: The coast. Estuarine and marine coastal ecosystems are both marine ecosystems . Together, these ecosystems perform the four categories of ecosystem services in a variety of ways: The provisioning services include forest products, marine products, fresh water , raw materials, biochemical and genetic resources. Regulating services include carbon sequestration (contributing to climate change mitigation ) as well as waste treatment and disease regulation and buffer zones. Supporting services of coastal ecosystems include nutrient cycling , biologically mediated habitats and primary production . Cultural services of coastal ecosystems include inspirational aspects, recreation and tourism , science and education. According to one principle of classification, an emergent coastline

6148-567: The continental shelf. Similarly, the term littoral zone has no single definition. It is the part of a sea , lake , or river that is close to the shore . In coastal environments, the littoral zone extends from the high water mark , which is rarely inundated, to shoreline areas that are permanently submerged . Coastal waters can be threatened by coastal eutrophication and harmful algal blooms . The identification of bodies of rock formed from sediments deposited in shoreline and nearshore environments (shoreline and nearshore facies )

6254-413: The danger sometimes remain near the shore to satisfy their curiosity or to collect fish from the exposed seabed. A typical wave period for a damaging tsunami is about twelve minutes. Thus, the sea recedes in the drawback phase, with areas well below sea level exposed after three minutes. For the next six minutes, the wave trough builds into a ridge which may flood the coast, and destruction ensues. During

6360-455: The deep ocean has a much larger wavelength of up to 200 kilometres (120 mi). Such a wave travels at well over 800 kilometres per hour (500 mph), but owing to the enormous wavelength the wave oscillation at any given point takes 20 or 30 minutes to complete a cycle and has an amplitude of only about 1 metre (3.3 ft). This makes tsunamis difficult to detect over deep water, where ships are unable to feel their passage. The velocity of

6466-555: The deep seas beyond the continental shelves. Many coastal areas are famous for their kelp beds. Kelp is a fast-growing seaweed that can grow up to half a meter a day in ideal conditions. Mangroves , seagrasses , macroalgal beds, and salt marsh are important coastal vegetation types in tropical and temperate environments respectively. Restinga is another type of coastal vegetation. Coasts also face many human-induced environmental impacts and coastal development hazards . The most important ones are: The pollution of coastlines

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6572-487: The earthquake occurred is where the Pacific Ocean floor is subducting (or being pushed downwards) under Alaska. Examples of tsunamis originating at locations away from convergent boundaries include Storegga about 8,000 years ago, Grand Banks in 1929, and Papua New Guinea in 1998 (Tappin, 2001). The Grand Banks and Papua New Guinea tsunamis came from earthquakes which destabilised sediments, causing them to flow into

6678-408: The earthquake. At the point where its shock has been the most violent the sea is driven back, and suddenly recoiling with redoubled force, causes the inundation. Without an earthquake I do not see how such an accident could happen. The Roman historian Ammianus Marcellinus ( Res Gestae 26.10.15–19) described the typical sequence of a tsunami, including an incipient earthquake, the sudden retreat of

6784-406: The flanks and in some cases detachment planes are believed to be developing. However, there is growing controversy about how dangerous these slopes actually are. Other than by landslides or sector collapse , volcanoes may be able to generate waves by pyroclastic flow submergence, caldera collapse, or underwater explosions. Tsunamis have been triggered by a number of volcanic eruptions, including

6890-491: The gravitational pull of the moon and sun rather than the displacement of water. Although the meanings of "tidal" include "resembling" or "having the form or character of" tides, use of the term tidal wave is discouraged by geologists and oceanographers. A 1969 episode of the TV crime show Hawaii Five-O entitled "Forty Feet High and It Kills!" used the terms "tsunami" and "tidal wave" interchangeably. The term seismic sea wave

6996-409: The harbour at Halifax , Nova Scotia , Canada . There have been studies of the potential for the use of explosives to induce tsunamis as a tectonic weapon . As early as World War II (1939–1945), consideration of the use of conventional explosives was explored, and New Zealand's military forces initiated Project Seal , which attempted to create small tsunamis with explosives in the area of what

7102-777: The human uses of the coast and threaten coastal ecosystems. The interactive effects of climate change, habitat destruction , overfishing , and water pollution (especially eutrophication ) have led to the demise of coastal ecosystem around the globe. This has resulted in population collapse of fisheries stocks, loss of biodiversity , increased invasion of alien species , and loss of healthy habitats. International attention to these issues has been captured in Sustainable Development Goal 14 "Life Below Water", which sets goals for international policy focused on preserving marine coastal ecosystems and supporting more sustainable economic practices for coastal communities. Likewise,

7208-546: The intensity of tsunamis were the Sieberg - Ambraseys scale (1962), used in the Mediterranean Sea and the Imamura-Iida intensity scale (1963), used in the Pacific Ocean. The latter scale was modified by Soloviev (1972), who calculated the tsunami intensity " I " according to the formula: where H a v {\displaystyle {\mathit {H}}_{av}} is the "tsunami height" in metres, averaged along

7314-545: The intensively studied tsunamis in 2004 and 2011, a new 12-point scale was proposed, the Integrated Tsunami Intensity Scale (ITIS-2012), intended to match as closely as possible to the modified ESI2007 and EMS earthquake intensity scales. The first scale that genuinely calculated a magnitude for a tsunami, rather than an intensity at a particular location was the ML scale proposed by Murty & Loomis based on

7420-483: The low barometric pressure of passing tropical cyclones, nor should they be confused with setup, the temporary local raising of sea level caused by strong on-shore winds. Storm surges and setup are also dangerous causes of coastal flooding in severe weather but their dynamics are completely unrelated to tsunami waves. They are unable to propagate beyond their sources, as waves do. The accidental Halifax Explosion in 1917 triggered an 18-metre (59 ft) high tsunami in

7526-410: The majority of coastal human populations. Other coastal spaces like beaches and seaside resorts generate large revenues through tourism . Marine coastal ecosystems can also provide protection against sea level rise and tsunamis . In many countries, mangroves are the primary source of wood for fuel (e.g. charcoal ) and building material. Coastal ecosystems like mangroves and seagrasses have

7632-669: The margins of the continental shelves , make up about 7 percent of the Earth's oceans, but at least 85% of commercially harvested fish depend on coastal environments during at least part of their life cycle. As of October 2010, about 2.86% of exclusive economic zones were part of marine protected areas . The definition of coasts varies. Marine scientists think of the "wet" (aquatic or intertidal ) vegetated habitats as being coastal ecosystems (including seagrass, salt marsh etc.) whilst some terrestrial scientists might only think of coastal ecosystems as purely terrestrial plants that live close to

7738-587: The microplastics go through the water filtration system and into the ocean, but because of their small size they are likely to escape capture by the preliminary treatment screens on wastewater plants. These beads are harmful to the organisms in the ocean, especially filter feeders, because they can easily ingest the plastic and become sick. The microplastics are such a concern because it is difficult to clean them up due to their size, so humans can try to avoid using these harmful plastics by purchasing products that use environmentally safe exfoliates. Between 1901 and 2018,

7844-507: The more resistant rocks erode more slowly, remaining as headlands or outcroppings . Parts of a coastline can be categorised as high energy coast or low energy coast. The distinguishing characteristics of a high energy coast are that the average wave energy is relatively high so that erosion of small grained material tends to exceed deposition, and consequently landforms like cliffs, headlands and wave-cut terraces develop. Low energy coasts are generally sheltered from waves, or in regions where

7950-611: The nearest coastline, with the tsunami height defined as the rise of the water level above the normal tidal level at the time of occurrence of the tsunami. This scale, known as the Soloviev-Imamura tsunami intensity scale , is used in the global tsunami catalogues compiled by the NGDC/NOAA and the Novosibirsk Tsunami Laboratory as the main parameter for the size of the tsunami. This formula yields: In 2013, following

8056-405: The next six minutes, the wave changes from a ridge to a trough, and the flood waters recede in a second drawback. Victims and debris may be swept into the ocean. The process repeats with succeeding waves. As with earthquakes, several attempts have been made to set up scales of tsunami intensity or magnitude to allow comparison between different events. The first scales used routinely to measure

8162-434: The north coast of Belize city). Its name is believed to be attained from those who had to "haul" their cattle over the creek with ropes prior to the construction of the swing bridge in 1922. The creek is now famously used for easily accessing the Caribbean Sea from the city as observed by the hosting of the water taxi to distant islands such as San Pedro and Ambergris Caye , and the sighting of many fishing boats anchored in

8268-847: The ocean and generate a tsunami. They dissipated before travelling transoceanic distances. The cause of the Storegga sediment failure is unknown. Possibilities include an overloading of the sediments, an earthquake or a release of gas hydrates (methane etc.). The 1960 Valdivia earthquake ( M w 9.5), 1964 Alaska earthquake ( M w 9.2), 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake ( M w 9.2), and 2011 Tōhoku earthquake ( M w 9.0) are recent examples of powerful megathrust earthquakes that generated tsunamis (known as teletsunamis ) that can cross entire oceans. Smaller ( M w 4.2) earthquakes in Japan can trigger tsunamis (called local and regional tsunamis) that can devastate stretches of coastline, but can do so in only

8374-441: The ocean through rivers, but wind-blown debris and dust can also play a role, as these pollutants can settle into waterways and oceans. Pathways of pollution include direct discharge, land runoff, ship pollution , bilge pollution , atmospheric pollution and, potentially, deep sea mining . Marine debris , also known as marine litter, is human-created solid material that has deliberately or accidentally been released in seas or

8480-437: The ocean, meteorite impacts, and the weather when the atmospheric pressure changes very rapidly—can generate such waves by displacing water. The use of the term tsunami for waves created by landslides entering bodies of water has become internationally widespread in both scientific and popular literature, although such waves are distinct in origin from large waves generated by earthquakes. This distinction sometimes leads to

8586-485: The oceans is discarded and lost nets from the fishing industry. Waterborne plastic poses a serious threat to fish , seabirds , marine reptiles , and marine mammals , as well as to boats and coasts. A growing concern regarding plastic pollution in the marine ecosystem is the use of microplastics. Microplastics are beads of plastic less than 5 millimeters wide, and they are commonly found in hand soaps, face cleansers, and other exfoliators. When these products are used,

8692-430: The possibility of a meteorite causing a tsunami is debated. Tsunamis can be generated when the sea floor abruptly deforms and vertically displaces the overlying water. Tectonic earthquakes are a particular kind of earthquake that are associated with the Earth's crustal deformation; when these earthquakes occur beneath the sea, the water above the deformed area is displaced from its equilibrium position. More specifically,

8798-433: The potential energy. Difficulties in calculating the potential energy of the tsunami mean that this scale is rarely used. Abe introduced the tsunami magnitude scale M t {\displaystyle {\mathit {M}}_{t}} , calculated from, where h is the maximum tsunami-wave amplitude (in m) measured by a tide gauge at a distance R from the epicentre, a , b and D are constants used to make

8904-605: The results. Analysis of the effects of shallow and deep underwater explosions indicate that the energy of the explosions does not easily generate the kind of deep, all-ocean waveforms typical of tsunamis because most of the energy creates steam , causes vertical fountains above the water, and creates compressional waveforms. Tsunamis are hallmarked by permanent large vertical displacements of very large volumes of water which do not occur in explosions. Tsunamis are caused by earthquakes, landslides, volcanic explosions, glacier calvings, and bolides . They cause damage by two mechanisms:

9010-416: The sandstone is coarser than the lower part (a coarsening upwards sequence ). Geologists refer to these are parasequences . Each records an episode of retreat of the ocean from the shoreline over a period of 10,000 to 1,000,000 years. These often show laminations reflecting various kinds of tidal cycles. Some of the best-studied shoreline deposits in the world are found along the former western shore of

9116-426: The sea and a following gigantic wave, after the 365 AD tsunami devastated Alexandria . The principal generation mechanism of a tsunami is the displacement of a substantial volume of water or perturbation of the sea. This displacement of water is usually caused by earthquakes, but can also be attributed to landslides, volcanic eruptions, glacier calvings or more rarely by meteorites and nuclear tests. However,

9222-579: The sea. Some coastal animals are used to humans in developed areas, such as dolphins and seagulls who eat food thrown for them by tourists. Since the coastal areas are all part of the littoral zone , there is a profusion of marine life found just off-coast, including sessile animals such as corals , sponges, starfish, mussels, seaweeds, fishes, and sea anemones . There are many kinds of seabirds on various coasts. These include pelicans and cormorants , who join up with terns and oystercatchers to forage for fish and shellfish. There are sea lions on

9328-401: The seashore (see also estuaries and coastal ecosystems ). While there is general agreement in the scientific community regarding the definition of coast, in the political sphere, the delineation of the extents of a coast differ according to jurisdiction . Government authorities in various countries may define coast differently for economic and social policy reasons. The coastline paradox

9434-427: The second principle of classification, a concordant coastline is a coastline where bands of different rock types run parallel to the shore. These rock types are usually of varying resistance , so the coastline forms distinctive landforms, such as coves. Discordant coastlines feature distinctive landforms because the rocks are eroded by the ocean waves . The less resistant rocks erode faster, creating inlets or bay ;

9540-404: The slope than up it. Steep waves that are close together and break with the surf plunging down onto the shore slope expend much of their energy lifting the sediment. The weak swash does not carry it far up the slope, and the strong backwash carries it further down the slope, where it either settles in deeper water or is carried along the shore by a longshore current induced by an angled approach of

9646-400: The smashing force of a wall of water travelling at high speed, and the destructive power of a large volume of water draining off the land and carrying a large amount of debris with it, even with waves that do not appear to be large. While everyday wind waves have a wavelength (from crest to crest) of about 100 metres (330 ft) and a height of roughly 2 metres (6.6 ft), a tsunami in

9752-705: The stream. Haulover Creek is a noted high risk area for flooding and water pollution in Belize City. Coastal Coasts are important zones in natural ecosystems , often home to a wide range of biodiversity . On land, they harbor important ecosystems such as freshwater or estuarine wetlands , which are important for bird populations and other terrestrial animals . In wave-protected areas, they harbor salt marshes , mangroves or seagrasses , all of which can provide nursery habitat for fin fish , shellfish , and other aquatic animals . Rocky shores are usually found along exposed coasts and provide habitat for

9858-692: The terms coast and coastal are often used to describe a geographic location or region located on a coastline (e.g., New Zealand's West Coast , or the East , West , and Gulf Coast of the United States .) Coasts with a narrow continental shelf that are close to the open ocean are called pelagic coast , while other coasts are more sheltered coast in a gulf or bay . A shore , on the other hand, may refer to parts of land adjoining any large body of water, including oceans (sea shore) and lakes (lake shore). The Earth has approximately 620,000 kilometres (390,000 mi) of coastline. Coastal habitats, which extend to

9964-667: The threats of coasts has been captured in Sustainable Development Goal 14 "Life Below Water" which sets goals for international policy focused on preserving marine coastal ecosystems and supporting more sustainable economic practices for coastal communities. Likewise, the United Nations has declared 2021–2030 the UN Decade on Ecosystem Restoration , but restoration of coastal ecosystems has received insufficient attention. Tsunami A tsunami ( /( t ) s uː ˈ n ɑː m i , ( t ) s ʊ ˈ -/ (t)soo- NAH -mee, (t)suu- ; from Japanese : 津波 , lit.   'harbour wave', pronounced [tsɯnami] )

10070-457: The transoceanic reach of significant seismic tsunamis, and 2) that the force that displaces the water is sustained over some length of time such that meteotsunamis cannot be modelled as having been caused instantaneously. In spite of their lower energies, on shorelines where they can be amplified by resonance, they are sometimes powerful enough to cause localised damage and potential for loss of life. They have been documented in many places, including

10176-447: The understanding of the other source mechanisms. Some meteorological conditions, especially rapid changes in barometric pressure, as seen with the passing of a front, can displace bodies of water enough to cause trains of waves with wavelengths. These are comparable to seismic tsunamis, but usually with lower energies. Essentially, they are dynamically equivalent to seismic tsunamis, the only differences being 1) that meteotsunamis lack

10282-457: The use of other terms for landslide-generated waves, including landslide-triggered tsunami , displacement wave , non-seismic wave , impact wave , and, simply, giant wave . While Japan may have the longest recorded history of tsunamis, the sheer destruction caused by the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami event mark it as the most devastating of its kind in modern times, killing around 230,000 people. The Sumatran region

10388-399: The very largest tsunamis, the approaching wave does not break , but rather appears like a fast-moving tidal bore . Open bays and coastlines adjacent to very deep water may shape the tsunami further into a step-like wave with a steep-breaking front. When the tsunami's wave peak reaches the shore, the resulting temporary rise in sea level is termed run up . Run up is measured in metres above

10494-487: The wave the more energy it releases and the more sediment it moves. Coastlines with longer shores have more room for the waves to disperse their energy, while coasts with cliffs and short shore faces give little room for the wave energy to be dispersed. In these areas, the wave energy breaking against the cliffs is higher, and air and water are compressed into cracks in the rock, forcing the rock apart, breaking it down. Sediment deposited by waves comes from eroded cliff faces and

10600-476: The wave-front to the shore. These waves which erode the beach are called destructive waves. Low waves that are further apart and break by spilling , expend more of their energy in the swash which carries particles up the beach, leaving less energy for the backwash to transport them downslope, with a net constrictive influence on the beach. Riviera is an Italian word for "shoreline", ultimately derived from Latin ripa ("riverbank"). It came to be applied as

10706-407: The waves surge up the river estuaries from the ocean. Geologists classify coasts on the basis of tidal range into macrotidal coasts with a tidal range greater than 4 m (13 ft); mesotidal coasts with a tidal range of 2 to 4 m (6.6 to 13 ft); and microtidal coasts with a tidal range of less than 2 m (7 ft). The distinction between macrotidal and mesotidal coasts

10812-406: The whole ocean system are ultimately connected, although certain regional classifications are useful and relevant. The waters of the continental shelves represent such a region. The term "coastal waters" has been used in a wide variety of different ways in different contexts. In European Union environmental management it extends from the coast to just a few nautical miles while in the United States

10918-482: The world's people live in coastal regions. According to a United Nations atlas, 44% of all people live within 150 km (93 mi) of the sea. Many major cities are on or near good harbors and have port facilities. Some landlocked places have achieved port status by building canals . Nations defend their coasts against military invaders, smugglers and illegal migrants. Fixed coastal defenses have long been erected in many nations, and coastal countries typically have

11024-576: Was among the deadliest natural disasters in human history, with at least 230,000 people killed or missing in 14 countries bordering the Indian Ocean . The Ancient Greek historian Thucydides suggested in his 5th century BC History of the Peloponnesian War that tsunamis were related to submarine earthquakes , but the understanding of tsunamis remained slim until the 20th century, and much remains unknown. Major areas of current research include determining why some large earthquakes do not generate tsunamis while other smaller ones do. This ongoing research

11130-515: Was confirmed in 1958, when a giant landslide in Lituya Bay , Alaska, caused the highest wave ever recorded, which had a height of 524 metres (1,719 ft). The wave did not travel far as it struck land almost immediately. The wave struck three boats—each with two people aboard—anchored in the bay. One boat rode out the wave, but the wave sank the other two, killing both people aboard one of them. Another landslide-tsunami event occurred in 1963 when

11236-441: Was expanded upon by Benoit Mandelbrot . Tides often determine the range over which sediment is deposited or eroded. Areas with high tidal ranges allow waves to reach farther up the shore, and areas with lower tidal ranges produce deposition at a smaller elevation interval. The tidal range is influenced by the size and shape of the coastline. Tides do not typically cause erosion by themselves; however, tidal bores can erode as

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