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Goûter Route

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Frostbite is a skin injury that occurs when someone is exposed to extremely low temperatures, causing the freezing of the skin or other tissues, commonly affecting the fingers , toes , nose , ears , cheeks and chin areas. Most often, frostbite occurs in the hands and feet. The initial symptoms are typically a feeling of cold and tingling or numbing . This may be followed by clumsiness with a white or bluish color to the skin. Swelling or blistering may occur following treatment. Complications may include hypothermia or compartment syndrome .

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34-634: The Goûter Route (also known as the Voie Des Cristalliers and Voie Royale ) is one of the two normal mountaineering routes used to reach the summit of Mont Blanc in the Alps , ascending to a height of 4,808 metres (15,774 ft). The route lies on the north side of the mountain, in France. Usually reckoned as the easiest route up Mont Blanc, it is extremely popular with mountaineers, seeing thousands of ascents per year. The first attempt of this route (from

68-822: A given mountain peak ; it is usually the easiest and often the most straightforward route. Other generic names include the tourist route or trade route , and some climbing routes have specific 'normal route' names such as the "Yak Route" on Mount Everest. This climbing -related article is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . Frostbite People who are exposed to low temperatures for prolonged periods, such as winter sports enthusiasts, military personnel, and homeless individuals, are at greatest risk. Other risk factors include drinking alcohol , smoking , mental health problems , certain medications, and prior injuries due to cold. The underlying mechanism involves injury from ice crystals and blood clots in small blood vessels following thawing. Diagnosis

102-827: A temperature of 37–39 °C, which decreases the pain experienced by the patient whilst only slightly slowing rewarming time." Warming takes 15 minutes to 1 hour. The faucet should be left running so the water can circulate. Rewarming can be very painful, so pain management is important. People with potential for large amputations and who present within 24 hours of injury can be given TPA with heparin . These medications should be withheld if there are any contraindications. Bone scans or CT angiography can be done to assess damage. Blood vessel dilating medications such as iloprost may prevent blood vessel blockage. This treatment might be appropriate in grades 2–4 frostbite, when people get treatment within 48 hours. In addition to vasodilators, sympatholytic drugs can be used to counteract

136-480: A year among those who mountaineer . The most common age group affected is those 30 to 50 years old. Frostbite has also played an important role in a number of military conflicts. The first formal description of the condition was in 1813 by Dominique Jean Larrey , a physician in Napoleon 's army, during its invasion of Russia . Areas that are usually affected include cheeks, ears, nose and fingers and toes. Frostbite

170-555: Is a lesion on the distal body part, tissue and fingernails can be destroyed Grade 3: if there is a lesion on the intermediate or near body part, auto-amputation and loss of function can occur Grade 4: if there is a lesion very near the body (such as the carpals of the hand), the limb can be lost. Sepsis and/or other systemic problems are expected. A number of long term sequelae can occur after frostbite. These include transient or permanent changes in sensation, paresthesia , increased sweating, cancers, and bone destruction/ arthritis in

204-499: Is another possible mechanism of injury. Blisters and spasm of blood vessels ( vasospasm ) can develop after rewarming. The process of frostbite differs from the process of non-freezing cold injury (NFCI). In NFCI, temperature in the tissue decreases gradually. This slower temperature decrease allows the body to try to compensate through alternating cycles of closing and opening blood vessels ( vasoconstriction and vasodilation ). If this process continues, inflammatory mast cells act in

238-421: Is based on symptoms. Severity may be divided into superficial (1st and 2nd degree) or deep (3rd and 4th degree). A bone scan or MRI may help in determining the extent of injury. Prevention consists of wearing proper, fully-covering clothing, avoiding low temperatures and wind, maintaining hydration and nutrition, and sufficient physical activity to maintain core temperature without exhaustion. Treatment

272-457: Is by rewarming, by immersion in warm water (near body temperature) or by body contact, and should be done only when consistent temperature can be maintained so that refreezing is not a risk. Rapid heating or cooling should be avoided since it could potentially cause burning or heart stress. Rubbing or applying force to the affected areas should be avoided as it may cause further damage such as abrasions . The use of ibuprofen and tetanus toxoid

306-657: Is exposure to cold through geography, occupation and/or recreation. Inadequate clothing and shelter are major risk factors. Frostbite is more likely when the body's ability to produce or retain heat is impaired. Physical, behavioral, and environmental factors can all contribute to the development of frostbite. Immobility and physical stress (such as malnutrition or dehydration) are also risk factors. Disorders and substances that impair circulation contribute, including diabetes , Raynaud's phenomenon , tobacco and alcohol use. Homeless individuals and individuals with some mental illnesses may be at higher risk. In frostbite, cooling of

340-510: Is in force with quota-limited climbing permits required for all climbers. The quotas are based on the dates which climbers choose to stay at each of the refuges along the route. The ascent usually takes 2 days. From Saint-Gervais-les-Bains , climbers must first reach the Nid d'Aigle , either via the Mont Blanc Tramway or by foot. From here, climbers hike to and then ascend a lateral moraine to

374-465: Is insufficient to determine whether or not hyperbaric oxygen therapy as an adjunctive treatment can assist in tissue salvage. Cases have been reported, but no randomized control trial has been performed on humans. Medical sympathectomy using intravenous reserpine has also been attempted with limited success. Studies have suggested that administration of tissue plasminogen activator (tPa) either intravenously or intra-arterially may decrease

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408-403: Is no risk of re-freezing, the extremity can be exposed and warmed in the underarm of a companion or the groin. If the area is allowed to refreeze, there can be worse tissue damage. If the area cannot be reliably kept warm, the person should be brought to a medical facility without rewarming the area. Rubbing the affected area can also increase tissue damage. Aspirin and ibuprofen can be given in

442-473: Is often preceded by frostnip. The symptoms of frostbite progress with prolonged exposure to cold. Historically, frostbite has been classified by degrees according to skin and sensation changes, similar to burn classifications. However, the degrees do not correspond to the amount of long term damage. A simplification of this system of classification is superficial (first or second degree) or deep injury (third or fourth degree). The major risk factor for frostbite

476-458: Is recommended for pain relief or to reduce swelling or inflammation. For severe injuries, iloprost or thrombolytics may be used. Surgery, including amputation, is sometimes necessary. Evidence of frostbite occurring in people dates back 5,000 years. Evidence was documented in a pre-Columbian mummy discovered in the Andes. The number of cases of frostbite is unknown. Rates may be as high as 40%

510-481: Is the summit area. The route is simple and requires few technical abilities, but is not to be underestimated because of exposure to objective dangers. It is also physically demanding, and may be totally exhausting to those with limited athletic ability. Additionally, there are the risks of hypothermia and frostbite . Above the Aiguille du Goûter, altitude sickness occurs frequently with climbers regardless of skill and

544-670: The Aiguille du Goûter up to the Col du Dôme , but not further), was completed on 17 September 1784 by Jean Marie Couttet and François Cuidet. This was two years prior to the first successful attempt to reach Mont Blanc's summit in 1786. However, the first complete ascent of the mountain the via the Aiguille du Goûter, the Dôme du Goûter and L'Arête des Bosses (Bosses Ridge) was only accomplished on 18 July 1861, more than seventy years later. The first ascensionists were Leslie Stephen and Francis Fox Tuckett with

578-613: The Tête Rousse Hut and the Tête Rousse Glacier . After crossing the Tête Rousse glacier, climbers access a short stretch of rock and immediately afterwards reach the infamous Couloir du Goûter or Grand Couloir. The 100 m-long section is protected by a steel cable, intended to be used in avalanche emergencies only. The unstable rocks in the couloir have become infamous as more and more climbers attempt Mont Blanc up this route. In

612-616: The area affected. There is a lack of comprehensive statistics about the epidemiology of frostbite. In the United States, frostbite is more common in northern states. In Finland, annual incidence was 2.5 per 100,000 among civilians, compared with 3.2 per 100,000 in Montreal. Research suggests that men aged 30–49 are at highest risk, possibly due to occupational or recreational exposures to cold. Frostbite has been described in military history for millennia. The Greeks encountered and discussed

646-427: The area as rapidly as possible, in turn exacerbating existing risks. Most accidents occur when climbers slip off of unstable terrain or are hit by rockfall from above. While still risky, the vast majority of climbers make it through the section with no trouble. Beyond the couloir, one scrambles up a crest of rock leads up to the top of the mountain face, soon reaching the former Goûter Hut (an old mountain hut) where

680-431: The area is still partially or fully frozen, it should be rewarmed in the hospital with a warm bath with povidone iodine or chlorhexidine antiseptic . Active rewarming seeks to warm the injured tissue as quickly as possible without burning. The faster tissue is thawed, the less tissue damage occurs. According to Handford and colleagues, "The Wilderness Medical Society and State of Alaska Cold Injury Guidelines recommend

714-399: The area. Small clots (microthrombi) form and can cut off blood to the affected area (known as ischemia ) and damage nerve fibers. Rewarming causes a series of inflammatory chemicals such as prostaglandins to increase localized clotting. The pathological mechanism by which frostbite causes body tissue injury can be characterized by four stages: Prefreeze, freeze-thaw, vascular stasis, and

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748-632: The body causes narrowing of the blood vessels ( vasoconstriction ). Prolonged exposure to temperatures below −2 °C (28 °F) may cause ice crystals to form in the tissues, and prolonged exposure to temperatures below −4 °C (25 °F) may cause ice crystals to form in the blood. Ice crystals can damage small blood vessels at the site of injury. Typically, prolonged exposure to temperatures below −0.55 °C (31.01 °F) may cause frostbite. Rewarming causes tissue damage through reperfusion injury , which involves vasodilation , swelling (edema), and poor blood flow (stasis). Platelet aggregation

782-462: The climb has concluded, climbers should be aware of increasingly hazardous weather, a highly strenuous ascent ahead of 1000 m, and the risks they face on descent. The ascent from the summit from the Goûter Hut consists of a continuous progression on snow across the following landmarks: The final approach typically involves walking (with crampons ) on the top of an arête , ending at a flat spot that

816-482: The detrimental peripheral vasoconstriction that occurs during frostbite. A systematic review and metaanalysis revealed that iloprost alone or iloprost plus recombinant tissue plasminogen activator (rtPA) may decrease amputation rate in case of severe frostbite in comparison to buflomedil alone with no major adverse events reported from iloprost or iloprost plus rtPA in the included studies. Various types of surgery might be indicated in frostbite injury, depending on

850-531: The field to prevent clotting and inflammation. Ibuprofen is often preferred to aspirin because aspirin may block a subset of prostaglandins that are important in injury repair. The first priority in people with frostbite should be to assess for hypothermia and other life-threatening complications of cold exposure. Before treating frostbite, the core temperature should be raised above 35 °C. Oral or intravenous (IV) fluids should be given. Other considerations for standard hospital management include: If

884-456: The guides Melchior Anderegg , Johann-Josef Bennen and Peter Perren. Numerous accidents from 2003 onwards have brought to public attention the perceived overuse of the route. Local residents raised concerns about the fragile alpine environment and the "progressive banalisation" and "globalisation" of the mountain to a mere tourist destination. Since 25 May 2019, on the Goûter Route, a regulation

918-505: The late ischemic stage. Frostbite is diagnosed based on signs and symptoms as described above, and by patient history . Other conditions that can have a similar appearance or occur at the same time include: People who have hypothermia often have frostbite as well. Since hypothermia is life-threatening this should be treated first. Technetium-99 or MR scans are not required for diagnosis, but might be useful for prognostic purposes. The Wilderness Medical Society recommends covering

952-496: The only remedy is descending to the valley if possible. In the International French adjectival alpine system (IFAS), which evaluates the overall difficulty, this route is generally classified as a "PD" ( peu difficile ) or "PD-/PD+". Normal route A normal route or normal way ( French : voie normale ; German : Normalweg ) is the most frequently used climbing route for ascending and descending

986-406: The path increases in steepness. This section is equipped with protective steel cables, above which climbers reach the ridge of the Aiguille du Goûter at the altitude of 3817 m. From here, climbers go 200 metres to the south to find the new Goûter Hut, which opened in 2013. Beyond this, the climb continues on straightforward, if sometimes exposed terrain. While the most technically difficult part of

1020-419: The period between 1990 and 2011, 74 people have died and 180 injured in accidents along this section. This is attributed primarily to the fragmented rocks in the area, the rising popularity of the route, and lack of technical and athletic skills. The increasingly infamous reputation of this short section and the scramble above it have also created a positive feedback loop, where climbers to attempt to get through

1054-525: The problem of frostbite as early as 400 BC. Researchers have found evidence of frostbite in humans dating back 5,000 years, in an Andean mummy. Napoleon's Army was the first documented instance of mass cold injury in the early 1800s. According to Zafren, nearly 1 million combatants fell victim to frostbite in the First and Second World Wars, and the Korean War. Several notable cases of frostbite include: Evidence

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1088-451: The skin and scalp, taking in adequate nutrition, avoiding constrictive footwear and clothing, and remaining active without causing exhaustion. Supplemental oxygen might also be of use at high elevations. Repeated exposure to cold water makes people more susceptible to frostbite. Additional measures to prevent frostbite include: Individuals with frostbite or potential frostbite should go to a protected environment and get warm fluids. If there

1122-413: The tissue will survive. Time of exposure to cold is more predictive of lasting injury than temperature the individual was exposed to. The classification system of grades, based on the tissue response to initial rewarming and other factors is designed to predict degree of longterm recovery. Grade 1: if there is no initial lesion on the area, no amputation or lasting effects are expected Grade 2: if there

1156-615: The type and extent of damage. Debridement or amputation of necrotic tissue is usually delayed unless there is gangrene or systemic infection ( sepsis ). This has led to the adage "Frozen in January, amputate in July". If symptoms of compartment syndrome develop, fasciotomy can be done to attempt to preserve blood flow. Tissue loss and autoamputation are potential consequences of frostbite. Permanent nerve damage including loss of feeling can occur. It can take several weeks to know what parts of

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