57-583: Fetter Lane is a street in the ward of Farringdon Without in the City of London , England. It forms part of the A4 road and runs between Fleet Street at its southern end and Holborn . The street was originally called Faytor or Faiter Lane, then Fewteres Lane. This is believed to come from the Old French "faitor" meaning lawyer, though by the 14th century this had become synonymous with an idle person. Geoffrey Chaucer used
114-453: A Member of Parliament and expelled from Parliament for "outlawry"; essentially for what was considered at the time "obscene and malicious libel" against, no less than, King George III . Later, Wilkes was elected Lord Mayor of London (1774–75). Other famous Aldermen include scions of the Child , Hoare and Gosling banking families. Typefounder Vincent Figgins was a Common Councilman for
171-482: A Maple Leaf Award, Gold record award and was nominated into the Hall of Fame with a lifetime achievement in 2022. In 1979 Wetherspoons opened their first pub, on Colney Hatch Lane. In November 2016, the shop 'Really British' opened on Muswell Hill broadway. The shop owner was accused of racism, with local residents threatening to stage a protest, with more practising a boycott. In March 2013 and June 2020 Muswell Hill
228-581: A collection of country houses to the London village that it is today. The development was spurred by the opening in 1873 of Alexandra Palace , a massive pleasure pavilion built on the most easterly of north London's gravel hills and intended as the counterpart to the Crystal Palace on Sydenham Hill in south London. Alexandra Palace was served by a branchline railway from Highgate, with an intermediary station at Muswell Hill (see below). The foot of Alexandra Palace
285-457: A lake. Opposite The Limes was Muswell Hill pond and beyond that the Green Man inn, built of stone. Further down the hill past the Green Man was The Elms , a squat three-storeyed house later improved by Thomas Cubitt standing in 4.5 ha (11 acres), part of the grounds of which were laid out by Joseph Paxton . A short distance down the north side of Muswell Hill was The Grove , which
342-487: A synagogue and six churches, one of which has been converted into a steak house. Muswell Hill is not directly served by a tube or National Rail station. Nearby tube stations include Bounds Green ( [REDACTED] ), East Finchley ( [REDACTED] ), Finsbury Park ( [REDACTED] [REDACTED] [REDACTED] ), Highgate ( [REDACTED] ), Turnpike Lane ( [REDACTED] ) and Wood Green ( [REDACTED] ). National Rail ( [REDACTED] ) services pass to
399-544: Is a church: United Reformed, Church of England, Methodist, and Roman Catholic. One of the nodes, opposite St James's CoE, was also the site of the Athenaeum music hall (later demolished with the site redeveloped as a supermarket), opposite which a surviving art deco Odeon cinema was built in the 1930s. The site of the Ritz, a cinema formerly at the top of Muswell Hill on the next node to the east, has been redeveloped as offices. Until
456-605: Is a local cycling lobby group. The 2011 census showed that the N10 postal area (including parts of Friern Barnet } had a population of 27,992 in the 2011 census. The same census showed that in the much smaller Muswell Hill electoral ward of the London Borough of Haringey, 84% of the population was white (65% British, 16% Other, 3% Irish). 40% were irreligious and Christian each, while the Jewish population stood at 5.3%. John Logie Baird
513-423: Is limited. The now-defunct London Cycle Network developed two signposted routes through Muswell Hill: The Muswell Hill Metro Group campaigns to reinstate a historic railway line which ran between Alexandra Palace and Finsbury Park, via Muswell Hill. The group says that the line would relieve congestion on local roads and that an electric railway would improve local air quality. The Haringey Cycling Campaign
570-552: Is one of 25 wards in the City of London, each electing an Alderman to the Court of Aldermen and Commoners (the City equivalent of a Councillor ) to the Court of Common Council of the City of London Corporation . On 27 January 1769, the radical MP John Wilkes was elected Alderman for this ward, while a prisoner in Newgate Prison . This was after he had repeatedly been elected as
627-663: Is to the south of the district and can be reached via Muswell Hill Road. To the north, Colney Hatch , Friern Barnet and Whetstone can be reached via Colney Hatch Lane. Both routes are numbered B550 . The A1 passes to the south of Muswell Hill, carrying traffic southbound towards Archway , Islington and the City of London . To the north, the route crosses the North Circular Road (A406), and traffic can reach destinations such as Mill Hill , Watford , Stevenage and Peterborough . Cycling infrastructure in Muswell Hill
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#1732844186624684-487: The City's former defensive walls . It was first established in 1394 to administer the suburbs west of Ludgate and Newgate , including West Smithfield and Temple . This was achieved by splitting the very large, pre-existing Farringdon Ward into two parts, Farringdon Within (inside the wall) and Farringdon Without (outside the wall). The large and prosperous extramural suburb of Farringdon Without has been described as having been London's first West End . The ward
741-505: The London Borough of Barnet . The area is in the Hornsey and Friern Barnet parliamentary constituency . Close to Alexandra Park and Highgate Woods, Muswell Hill is a mainly Edwardian north London suburb. Muswell Hill Broadway and Fortis Green Road, the main shopping streets, still maintain their historic character with most of the original facades preserved above street level. The area has
798-526: The River Fleet ) and in the fourteenth Fleet Street Ward . In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries it was common practice was to refer to wards by the name of their aldermen . In 1246 the part of the undivided Farringdon ward outside the wall is referred to as the ward of Henry of Frowyk without . and in 1276 the area was carried the name of another Alderman, as the Ward of Anketill de Auvergne , Farringdon
855-639: The "Muswell Hill Murderer". A resident for a short time in Muswell Hill was the Russian-born England Rugby union star Prince Alexander Obolensky , who died in Suffolk in an aircraft accident in 1940 while training as an RAF pilot. Philip Martell, musical director for Hammer House of Horrors lived in Woodland Gardens Musician, author, poet, wit and great English eccentric Vivian Stanshall lived his final years in Muswell Hill, dying in
912-509: The (now buried) River Fleet and part of its northern boundary was formed by the Fagswell Brook , which ran east to west along a line approximating to Charterhouse Street , before joining the Fleet which runs north to south under Farringdon Road and Farringdon Street. The ward includes a part of Holborn ; the church of St Andrew Holborn and the part of its parish known as St Andrew below
969-561: The 12th century. The Bishop of London , who was the Lord of the Manor of Haringey, owned the area and granted 26 ha (64 acres), located to the east of Colney Hatch Lane, to a newly formed order of nuns. The nuns built a chapel on the site and called it Our Lady of Muswell. The name Muswell is believed to come from a natural spring or well (the "Mossy Well"), said to have miraculous properties. A traditional story tells that Scottish king Malcolm IV
1026-472: The Bars – with the part known as St Andrew above the Bars outside the city (in the modern London Borough of Camden ). The term Bars refers to the historic boundary marks the city established when its rights or jurisdiction came to extend beyond the walls. Ornamental boundary markers known as West Smithfield Bars , first documented in 1170 and 1197, once marked the city's northern boundary. These stood close to
1083-644: The Charterhouse Street junction with St John Street (at the Fagswell Brook which formed the boundary before it was culverted over). Although the Smithfield Bars are lost, the ward still has Dragon boundary marks at Temple Bar , Farringdon Street and High Holborn . The wards of London appear to have taken shape in the eleventh century, before the Norman Conquest . Their administrative, judicial and military purpose made them equivalent to Hundreds in
1140-526: The City of London are eligible to stand for election . Muswell Hill Muswell Hill is a suburban district of the London Borough of Haringey , north London . The hill, which reaches over 100 m (330 ft) above sea level, is situated 5 + 1 ⁄ 2 miles (9 kilometres) north of Charing Cross. Neighbouring areas include Highgate , Hampstead Garden Suburb , East Finchley and Crouch End . It has many streets with Edwardian architecture . The earliest records of Muswell Hill date from
1197-506: The Fleet became little more than an open sewer, and the locality was given over to slums due to undesirable odours. The modern Farringdon Street was built over it, with the Fleet Market opening for the sale of meat, fish and vegetables in 1737. Charles Dickens described the market, in unflattering terms, in his novel Barnaby Rudge , set in 1780: "Fleet Market, at that time, was a long irregular row of wooden sheds and penthouses, occupying
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#17328441866241254-733: The London Moravian leader of the Fetter Lane Society, and his followers established it for the purpose of discipleship and accountability. They began with the purpose of meeting once a week for prayer and fellowship. Most of their members consisted of Anglicans, most prominently John Wesley , Charles Wesley , and George Whitefield . John Wesley records in his journal for 1 January 1739: "Mr. Hall, Hinching, Ingham, Whitefield, Hutching, and my brother Charles were present at our love feast in Fetter Lane with about 60 of our brethren. About three in
1311-543: The UK albums chart in 2016. Former KGB agent Alexander Litvinenko lived in Muswell Hill from his exile in 2000 until his assassination in 2006. The group Fairport Convention started in the Muswell Hill family home of Simon Nicol . The house, Fairport, is on the south side of Fortis Green near the junction with Tetherdown and Fortis Green Road. The serial killer and necrophile Dennis Nilsen committed his later murders in his Cranley Gardens flat in Muswell Hill and became known as
1368-587: The album title Muswell Hillbillies being an obvious reference to their youth. They allegedly played their first ever gig in the Clissold Arms in Fortis Green. Musician Michael Kiwanuka was born and raised in Muswell Hill; he was the winner of the Mercury Prize 2020 for his album Kiwanuka and a nominee for the 2021 63rd Grammy Award for Best Rock Album . His album Love & Hate went to Number 1 on
1425-519: The area of the civil parish of Hornsey became the Municipal Borough of Hornsey , within the administrative county of Middlesex . Then in 1965 Hornsey merged with Tottenham and Wood Green to form the modern London Borough of Haringey . Northern parts of the N10 postal area, sometimes also regarded as part of Muswell Hill, were part of the parish of Friern Barnet , which subsequently became Friern Barnet Urban District before becoming part of
1482-600: The area with a direct connection to the City of London and the West End . Buses also serve nearby stations. The A504 passes east–west through Muswell Hill. Eastbound traffic is carried towards Hornsey , Wood Green and the A10 . Westbound destinations include East Finchley , Hendon and the M1 . The A1201 terminates at Muswell Hill. Southbound destinations along this route include Crouch Hill , Finsbury Park and Highbury . Highgate
1539-625: The building when it was destroyed in 1905. They now stand next-door in the King's College library. The site then became the main London warehouse of the Cambridge University Press . It is now the Technology and Construction Court hearing litigation related to science and engineering. The Admiralty Court is also at St. Dunstan's House. At No. 33, the Moravian Chapel ( Fetter Lane Society )
1596-464: The centre of what is now called Farringdon Street. They were jumbled together in a most unsightly fashion, in the middle of the road; to the great obstruction of the thoroughfare and the annoyance of passengers, who were fain to make their way, as they best could, among carts, baskets, barrows, trucks, casks, bulks, and benches, and to jostle with porters, hucksters, waggoners, and a motley crowd of buyers, sellers, pick–pockets, vagrants, and idlers. The air
1653-461: The countryside. The primary purpose of wards like Farringdon, which included a gate, appears to be the defence of the gate, as gates were the weakest points in any fortification. Farringdon was a very large ward and had two gates, Ludgate and Newgate (previously called Chamberlains Gate after an area of land called the Chamberlain's Soke , lying just outside the gate). Early charters show that
1710-466: The east of Muswell Hill, calling at Alexandra Palace , Hornsey and Finsbury Park . Trains are operated by Great Northern and Thameslink to destinations such as Moorgate , Enfield and Welwyn Garden City . To the south of Muswell Hill, London Overground ( [REDACTED] ) trains serve Crouch Hill station between Gospel Oak and Barking , via South Tottenham . Muswell Hill Broadway and Muswell Hill West are both served by London Buses, providing
1767-528: The era. The Davies parents’ home at 6 Denmark Terrace, Fortis Green, remains a magnet for rock music tourists. In 1950, Paul Andrew Smith, was born in Muswell Hill at 12 Crown Road, and later became a founding member of the band Wednesday, formed in 1967. Their record success included the chart topping hit, Last Kiss followed by a series of top ten records in Canada, Australia and the USA. They earned several Juno nominations,
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1824-629: The growth, west of the wall of its first ' West End ' was well underway in the twelfth century. This early 'West End' suburb, heavily influenced by the proximity of the seat of government in Westminster , was based around large houses spread along the Thames, the Strand and the Holborn road. Early names for the undivided ward included the Ward of Ludgate and Newgate , and in the thirteenth century Flete Ward (after
1881-536: The location where Fetter Lane joins New Fetter Lane. On 7 December 2011 the Rolls Building , a new court of the High Court of Justice principally for commercial and property cases, was formally opened by Queen Elizabeth II . Citations Sources Farringdon Without Farringdon Without is the most westerly ward of the City of London , England. Its suffix Without reflects its origin as lying beyond
1938-598: The mid-20th century there was a rail branch line, the Muswell Hill Railway , from Highgate which passed through Muswell Hill, terminating at a station at Alexandra Palace . It was intended under the Northern Heights plan to integrate this into the London Underground Northern line ; some contemporary tube maps (e.g. the 1948 map ) showed the line as being under construction. However, this plan
1995-408: The morning, as we were continuing instant in prayer, the power of God came mightily upon us insomuch that many cried out for exceeding joy and many fell to the ground. As soon as we were recovered a little from that awe and amazement at the presence of His majesty, we broke out with one voice, 'We praise Thee, O God, we acknowledge Thee to be the Lord.'" A statue of John Wilkes was erected in 1988 at
2052-514: The north end of Fetter Lane, at Holborn Circus, and remained there until 1990, when it moved to the Isle of Dogs . The original site, between Rolls Buildings (a street) and Bream's Buildings (another street to the north) was called Rolls House from 1961 until its demolition in 2007. The new site, sometimes called 110 Fetter Lane rather than Rolls House, is the site of an 11-storey building containing 29 courtrooms and other judicial accommodation. 43 Fetter Lane
2109-638: The opening paragraphs of Gulliver's Travels the central character states that he lived briefly at Fetter Lane. From 1660 to 1680 Thomas Goodwin preached at the Fetter Lane Independent Church. The Socialist Party of Great Britain was founded in Bartlett's Passage, off Fetter Lane, in 1904. From 1920 to 1961 the Daily Mirror newspaper was initially located in Geraldine House, then moved to
2166-535: The presence of Farringdon Station , which was named after Farringdon Street and originally named Farringdon Street Station . The ward administers the land beyond the city's former western gates , including the Middle Temple , Inner Temple , Smithfield and St Bartholomew's Hospital . Since the boundary changes to the City of London in 1994, the ward now extends further west to meet the City of Westminster at Chancery Lane . It includes land on both sides of
2223-520: The ward fell outside or within the London Wall — such designation also applied to the wards of Bridge Within and Without. As well as goldsmiths, in medieval times the Fleet Ditch attracted many tanners and curriers to the ward. As the City became more populous, these trades were banished to the suburbs and by the 18th century the River Fleet had been culverted and built over. In its later years,
2280-432: The ward in the 1820s and 1830s, winning election against Henry Hunt in 1828. From 1901 to 1921 Carl Hentschel represented the ward. The ward is currently represented by Alderman Gregory Jones QC (elected February 2017, Common Councilman 2013–17) and 10 Common Councilman (elected March 2017). Alderman Gregory Jones QC has appointed John Absalom as Deputy (North) and Edward Lord OBE as Deputy (South). Freemen of
2337-458: The western boundary of the City and Westminster was pushed back to approximately its current position in around 1000, though the area outside the walls is thought to have been sparsely populated, if at all, at this time. The boundary markers at West Smithfield Bars were mentioned in 1170 and 1197. London was one of the first cities in Europe to develop segregated quarters and extramural suburbs, and
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2394-454: The word to refer to the beggars and vagrants who were seen around the lane. An alternative origin of the name is the fetter (lance vest) made by armourers working for the nearby Knights Templar . In the 1590s there was a gibbet at the junction of Fleet Street and Fetter Lane. The Catholic martyr Christopher Bales was among those hanged there. In 1643, the Member of Parliament Nathaniel Tomkins
2451-433: Was a track known as St James's Lane which ran across a triangle of wasteland. By the middle of the 19th century houses were already dispersed along the lane at the foot of which was Lalla Rookh , a two-storeyed villa with a wide verandah. Other buildings there were apparently cottages or huts, both single and in terraces. It was not until the end of the 19th century that Muswell Hill began to be developed more densely from
2508-456: Was arrested for conspiracy against the government by withholding taxes, and hanged outside his front door in Fetter Lane. It is sometimes said that John Dryden lived at No. 16, but there is no evidence for this. In 1604, John Dowland published "Lachrimae". The preface states "to be solde at the authors House in Fetter-lane neare Fleet-streete". In 1651 Thomas Hobbes lived in Fetter Lane. In
2565-626: Was cancelled after the Second World War, and the railway line was abandoned in 1954. The line was later converted to become the Parkland Walk . In 1964, three young Muswell Hill residents, the brothers Ray and Dave Davies and Pete Quaife, formed The Kinks . Categorised in the United States as a British Invasion band, the Kinks are recognised as one of the most important and influential rock groups of
2622-605: Was cured of disease after drinking the water. The area became a place of pilgrimage for healing during medieval times. The River Moselle , which has its source in Muswell Hill and Highgate, derives its name from this district; it was originally known as the Mosa or Mosella . Until the 1950s, the town's name was often pronounced "Muzzle Hill". In the 18th century Muswell Hill was a scattered village consisting mainly of detached villas with large gardens. In 1787 one commentator wrote that nowhere within 100 miles (160 km) of London
2679-809: Was founded in 1738. The Trust Society for the Furtherence of the Gospel was founded by the Moravian Church in 1741. They undertook missionary work and were based at Fetter Lane. The composer Christian Ignatius Latrobe did missionary work for them in South Africa . The organisation still exists, but is now based in Muswell Hill . For 67 years, Birkbeck, University of London , was located at Bream's Buildings on Fetter Lane. The writers Charles Lamb and Mary Lamb attended William Bird's Academy in Fetter Lane. Peter Böhler,
2736-559: Was later named after Sir Nicholas de Faringdon , who was appointed Lord Mayor of London for "as long as it shall please him" by King Edward II . The ward had been in the Faringdon family for 82 years at this time, his father, William de Faringdon preceding him as alderman in 1281, when he purchased the position. William de Faringdon was a sheriff of London in 1279–80. Farringdon Ward was split in two in 1394: Farringdon Without and Farringdon Within . "Without" and "Within" denote whether
2793-549: Was named one of the five most desirable places to live in London in the Sunday Times "Best Places To Live" guide. The hill was part of the Bishop of London's Manor of Hornsey, an area served from the medieval period by the ancient parish of Hornsey . Parishes were originally ecclesiastic in purpose, but from the Tudor era onwards had a civic as well as ecclesiastical purpose. In 1903,
2850-495: Was on Chancery Lane , but the back of this building dominates the southern stretch of Fetter Lane. It is now the Maughan Library belonging to King's College London . On Fleet Street is St. Dunstan-in-the-West , and next to it, at 133–137 Fetter Lane, is St. Dunstan's House. In Victorian times the publishing house Sampson Low was located at St. Dunstan's House. Two plaster reliefs (1886) by Walter Crane were salvaged from
2907-532: Was perfumed with the stench of rotten leaves and faded fruit; the refuse of the butchers' stalls, and offal and garbage of a hundred kinds. It was indispensable to most public conveniences in those days, that they should be public nuisances likewise; and Fleet Market maintained the principle to admiration." In 1829, it had become necessary to widen Farringdon Street, and the market was moved to new premises at Farringdon Market . This did not thrive, and its activities were moved to West Smithfield . Farringdon Without
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#17328441866242964-486: Was reduced in size considerably after a boundary review in 2003, and no longer corresponds closely to its historic extent, although it remains the largest of the City's 25 wards. Its resident population is 1,099 (2011). Farringdon Without and Farringdon Within are unconnected to the Farringdon area to the north, outside the city, in the London Borough of Islington . The area is sometimes referred to as Farringdon due to
3021-502: Was served by another rail network with connecting services to Finsbury Park and Kings Cross stations. Most development was initiated in the early 20th century when the current street pattern was set out and elegant Edwardian retail parades were constructed. The shopping centre is based on roads that form three sides of a square: Fortis Green Road, Muswell Hill Broadway and the extension of the Broadway into Colney Hatch Lane. At each node point
3078-539: Was the first person to transmit moving pictures, now called television. The first public broadcasts were from nearby Alexandra Palace before WW2. His scanning, rotating disc system was later replaced by a more modern electronic system. The former John Baird pub, now the Village Green, in Fortis Green Road was named after him. Musicians Ray and Dave Davies , founding members of The Kinks , grew up in Muswell Hill,
3135-451: Was the longtime headquarters of printing company Monotype until its destruction by bombing in 1941. At the southern end, towards Fleet Street, is situated Clifford's Inn , established in 1344 and named after the Barons de Clifford . Towards the northern end, near Holborn , is Barnard's Inn . They were both Inns of Chancery . The official address of the old Public Record Office (1856–1997)
3192-435: Was there a village so pleasant or with such varied views. Little had changed by the middle of the 19th century. One of the houses of the time was The Limes . This house occupied the angle of Muswell Hill Road with Colney Hatch Lane and was a three-storeyed house with portico and two-storeyed wing approached by a double carriage drive through impressive gateways. The large grounds of the house extended to Tetherdown and included
3249-433: Was three storeys high and had nine bays with pedimented projections at each end. It stood in 3.2 ha (7.9 acres) of grounds which contained a 184 m (201 yd) avenue of oaks. In 1774 the house was occupied by Topham Beauclerk . A little farther down the hill stood Grove Lodge , also in wooded grounds. Altogether there were eight properties in Muswell Hill worthy of note in 1817. Parallel with Muswell Hill
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