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101-469: Changshan (长衫) is a type of traditional Chinese dress. Changshan may also refer to: Changshan The term changshan is composed of two Chinese characters: chang 《 長 》which can literally be translated as "long" in length and shan 《 衫 》, which literally means " shirt ". The term changpao is also composed of the Chinese character chang and the Chinese pao 《 袍 》, which

202-482: A bixi . The jiaoling youren yi a style of upper garment, started to be worn during this period. In winter, padded jackets were worn. The ku or jingyi , which were knee-high trousers tied onto the calves but left the thighs exposed, were worn under the chang . During this period, this clothing style was unisex. Only rich people wore silk; poor people continued to wear loose shirts and ku made of hemp or ramie . An example of

303-695: A "layered effect". The robe continued to be worn in the Northern and Southern dynasties by both men and women, as seen in the lacquered screen found in the Northern Wei tomb of Sima Jinlong (ca. 483 A.D) ; however, there were some minor alterations to the robe, such as higher waistline and the sleeves are usually left open in a dramatic flare. Shoes worn during this period included lü (履; regular shoes for formal occasions), ji (屐; high, wooden clogs for informal wear), and shoes with tips which would curl upward. The shoes with tips curled upward would later become

404-736: A Shang dynasty attire can be seen on an anthropomorphic jade figurine excavated from the Tomb of Fu Hao in Anyang , which shows a person wearing a long narrow-sleeved yi with a wide band covering around waist, and a skirt underneath. This yichang attire appears to have been designed for the aristocratic class. Following the Shang dynasty, the Western Zhou dynasty established new system of etiquette and rites on clothing, placing new ceremonial, political and cultural significance on clothing. This tied fashion to

505-608: A fundamental rule for all Chinese men. Over time, the commoner Han men adopted the changshan while Han women continued to the wear the hanfu predominantly in the style of aoqun . The traditional Chinese Hanfu -style of clothing for men was gradually replaced. Over time, the Manchu-style of male dress gained popularity among Han men. Changshan was considered formal dress for Chinese men before Western-style suits were widely adopted in China. The male changshan could be worn under

606-474: A fur coat). During this period, elites generally wore paofu while peasants wore shanku consisting of short jackets and ku. Male commoners wore similar dress as Han dynasty male commoner did; archeological artefacts of this period depict male commoners wearing a full-sleeved, knee-length youren jacket; man's hairstyle is usually a topknot or a flat cap used for head covering. Female commoners dressed in similar fashion as their male counterpart but their jacket

707-525: A long outer skirt), the aoqun (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt), the beizi and the shenyi , and the shanku (an upper-body garment with ku trousers ). Traditionally, hanfu consists of a paofu robe , or a ru jacket worn as the upper garment with a qun skirt commonly worn as the lower garment. In addition to clothing, hanfu also includes several forms of accessories, such as headwear , footwear , belts , jewellery , yupei and handheld fans . Nowadays,

808-514: A loose rise was then introduced. Based on the archaeological artifacts dating from the Eastern Zhou dynasty, ordinary men, peasants and labourers, were wearing a long youren yi with narrow-sleeves, with a narrow silk band called sitao ( Chinese : 丝套 ) being knotted at the waist over the top. The youren yi was also worn with ku (in a style generally referred as shanku ) to allow greater ease of movement, but

909-587: A prohibition of Xianbei clothing among many other prohibition on Xianbei culture (e.g. language, Xianbei surnames) as a form of sinicization policies and allowed the intermarriage between Xianbei and Chinese elites. The Wei shu even claimed that the Xianbei rulers were descendants of Yellow Emperor , just like the Han Chinese, despite being non-Chinese. The Wei shu also records that Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei promoted Chinese-style long robes and official crowns in

1010-433: A role in differentiating ranks; for example, officials of the three upper levels and princes had to wear purple robes; officials above the fifth level had to wear red robes; officials of the sixth and seventh level had to wear green robes; and officials of the eighth and ninth levels had to wear cyan robes. Dragons-with-three-claws emblems also started to be depicted on the clothing of court officials above third ranks and on

1111-594: A roof-shaped top called jieze (介帻) is used by civil servants, usually greenish black in colour until summer seasons. Men and women also wore a lined, long robe called paofu . As Buddhism arrived in China during late period of Han dynasty, robes of Buddhist monks started to be produced. The attire worn in the Han dynasty laid the foundation for the clothing development in the succeeding dynasties. Ornaments and jewelries, such as rings, earrings, bracelets, necklace, and hairpins , and hair sticks were common worn in China by

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1212-453: A series of regulations in all forms of cultural aspects, including clothing. The clothing style in Qin was therefore unitary. The Qin dynasty adopted a coloured-clothing system, which stipulated people who held higher position (officials of the third rank and above) wore green shenyi while common people wore normal white shenyi . The Han Chinese wore the shenyi as a formal dress and

1313-431: A silk unlined upper garment was worn; they wore "breast dresses" . This change in the ideal corporal shape of women's bodies has been attributed to a beloved consort of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang , called Yang Guifei , although archeological evidence shows that this ideal of the female body had emerged before Yang Guifei's ascension to power in the imperial court. Another form of popular fashion in women's attire during

1414-512: A strict hierarchical society that used clothing as a status meridian, and inevitably, the height of one's rank influenced the ornateness of a costume. Costumes would also be distinguished by their ceremonial usage. This became the antecedent for the complex system of clothing for all succeeding eras and dynasties. Importance were hence placed on items such as the guan and mianfu , as recorded in Rites of Zhou and Book of Rites . The guan

1515-425: A type of jacket), bixi ; while women's clothing style were usually ruqun (lined jacket with long skirt) and shanqun (衫裙; shirt with long skirt), men's clothing styles are robes, shanku , and xiku (褶裤; jacket with trousers). During this period, the black gauze hats with a flat top and an ear at either side appeared and were popular for both men and women. Although they had their own cultural identity,

1616-532: A very popular fashion in the Tang dynasty. Leather boots (靴, xue ), quekua (缺胯; an open-collared robe with tight sleeves; it cannot cover the undershirt), hood and cape ensemble were introduced by northern nomads in China. Tomb inventories found during this period include: fangyi (方衣; square garment), shan (衫; shirt), qun , hanshan (汗衫; sweatshirt), ru (襦; lined jacket), ku (裤), kun (裈), liangdang (两裆; vest), ao (袄; multi-layered lined jacket), xi (褶;

1717-539: A western overcoat, and topped with a fedora and scarf. This combination expressed an East Asian modernity in the early 20th century. The 1949 Communist Revolution ended the wearing of changshan and other traditional clothing in Shanghai . Shanghainese emigrants and refugees carried the fashion to Hong Kong , where it remained popular. Recently in Shanghai and elsewhere in mainland China , many people have revived wearing

1818-405: Is described as being a shorter version of zhijupao and it was worn with trousers. The jingyi continued to be worn in the early period of Han dynasty; other forms of trousers in this period were the dakouku and dashao ; both were developed from the hedangku loose rise introduced by King Wuling. Men in the Han dynasty also wore a kerchief or a guan on their heads. The guan

1919-554: Is literally means " robe ". As general terms used in the broad sense, the changshan and changpao can refer to any form of long shirt and long robes respectively. The Mandarin Chinese word changshan is cognate with the Cantonese term Cheongsam ( 長衫 ) . This was then borrowed into English as "cheongsam." Unlike the Mandarin term, however, the chèuhngsàam can refer to both male and female garments. In Hong Kong

2020-458: Is recorded in a Qin dynasty's bamboo slip called Zhiyi ( 制衣 ; 'Making clothes'). The Terracotta army also show the differences between soldiers and officers' clothing wherein the elites wore long gown while all the commoners wore shorter jackets; they also wore headgears which ranged from simple head cloths to formal official caps. Cavalry riders were also depicted wearing long-sleeved, hip-length jackets and padded trousers. By

2121-583: Is wearing a Han Chinese cross-collared, wide-sleeves attire which has the basic clothing design derived from the Han dynasty attire with some altered designs, such as a high waistline and wide standing collar. Xu Xianxiu is depicted wearing a Central Asian-style coat, Xianbei-style tunic, trousers, and boots. Some of the female servants depicted from the tomb murals of Xu Xianxiu are wearing what appears to be Sogdian dresses, which tend to be associated with dancing girls and low-status entertainers during this period, while

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2222-451: Is worn in the opposite way in a style called zuoren , the clothing then becomes burial clothing and is therefore considered a taboo. Zuoren is also used by some minority ethnic groups in China. Many factors have contributed to the fashion of ancient China : beliefs, religions, wars, and the emperor's personal liking. Following the Qin dynasty , colours used in the sumptuary laws of

2323-471: The pianjin collar of the Manchu, and by using buttons and loops at the neck and sides. Despite the shared similarities with Manchu's neitao , the Chinese changshan differed structurally from the Manchu's neitao . The Chinese changshan only has two slits on the sides lacking the central front and back slits and lacked the presence of the matixiu cuffs; the sleeves were also longer than

2424-564: The shenyi may have been partially due to the influence of Confucianism. The shenyi remained the dominant form of Hanfu from the Zhou dynasty to the Qin dynasty and further to the Han dynasty . Although the Qin dynasty was short-lived, it set up a series of systems that impacted the later generations greatly. Following the unification of the seven states, Emperor Qin Shihuang ordered his people, regardless of distance and class, to follow

2525-455: The quefeiguan . Emperor Yangdi later reformed the dress code in accordance of the ancient customs and news sets of imperial clothing were made. In 605 AD, it was decreed that officials over the fifth-ranks had to dress in crimson or purple, and in 611 AD, any officials who would follow the emperor in expedition together had to wear martial clothing. In 610 AD, the kuzhe attire worn by attending officials worn during imperial expeditions

2626-661: The Book of Change , which says that: "Huang Di, Yao, and Shun (simply) wore their upper and lower garments [衣裳; yī cháng ] (as patterns to the people), and good order was secured all under heaven". Hanfu had changed and evolved with the fashion of the days since its commonly assumed beginnings in the Shang dynasty . Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simpler in cut than later examples. Later garments incorporate multiple pieces with men commonly wearing pants and women commonly wearing skirts. Clothing for women usually accentuates

2727-609: The Cao Wei (220–266 AD) and the Western Jin (266–316 AD) dynasties continued the cultural legacy of the Han dynasty. Clothing during the Three Kingdoms era and the clothing in Jin dynasty (266–420 AD) roughly had the same basic forms as the Han dynasty with special characteristics in their styles; the main clothing worn during those times are: ruqun (jacket and skirt), ku , and qiu (裘;

2828-471: The Eastern Han dynasty's ethical code; this kind of lifestyle influenced the development of women's clothing, which became more elaborate. Typical women attire during this period is the guiyi , a wide-sleeved paofu adorned with xian (髾; long swirling silk ribbons) and shao (襳; a type of triangular pieces of decorative embroidered-cloth) on the lower hem of the robe that hanged like banners and formed

2929-534: The Eastern Han , very few people wore shenyi . In the beginning of the Han dynasty, there was no restrictions on the clothing worn by common people. During the Western Han , the imperial edicts on the use of general clothing were not specific enough to be restrictive to the people, and were not enforced to a great degree. The clothing was simply differed accordingly to the seasons: blue or green for spring, red for summer, yellow for autumn and black for winter. It

3030-595: The Empire dresses of Napoleonic France ; however, the construction of the assemble differed from the ones worn in Western countries as Han Chinese women assemble consisted of a separate skirt and upper garment which show low décolletage. In this period, ordinary men did not wear skirts anymore. Many elements of the Tang dynasty clothing traditions was inherited from the Sui dynasty. During

3131-526: The Jiayuguan bricks painting . The dakouku remained popular. Dakouku that were bounded with strings at the knees were also called fuku , During the Western Jin , it was popular to use a felt cord to bind dakouku. It was worn with a knee-length tight cotton-padded robe as a set of attire called kuzhe . The kuzhe was a very popular style of clothing during the Northern and Southern dynasties and

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3232-788: The Northern and Southern dynasties period. Liangdang ( 两裆 ; 兩襠 ) is a type of undershirt or waistcoat worn in Northern China during the Sixteen Kingdoms period; it is not to be confused with a type of doubled-faced cuirass armour , also named liangdang , which was worn during this period. During the Northern and Southern dynasties, the dressing style followed the style of the Three Kingdoms and Jin dynasty; robes, skirts, trousers, short jackets, sleeveless jackets were worn while fur coats, especially marten coats, were very rare. Young people liked to be dressed in trousers; however, it

3333-461: The United States . Hanfu comprises all traditional clothing classifications of the Han Chinese with a recorded history of more than three millennia. Each succeeding dynasty produced their own distinctive dress codes, reflecting the socio-cultural environment of the times. Clothing made of silk was initially used for decorative and ceremonial purposes. The cultivation of silk, however, ushered

3434-461: The ladies-in-waiting of Xu Xianxiu's wife are wearing narrow-sleeved clothing which look more closely related to Xianbei-style or Central Asian-style clothing; yet this Xianbei style of attire is different from the depictions of Xianbei-style attire worn before 500 AD. The men (i.e. soldiers, grooms and male attendants) in the mural paintings of Xu Xianxiu tomb are depicted wearing high black or brown boots, belts, headgears, and clothing which follows

3535-499: The pinsefu (品色服), which was a colour grading clothing system to differentiate social ranking; this colour grading system for clothing then continued to be developed in the subsequent dynasties. Following the unification of China under the Sui dynasty , the Sui court abolished the Northern Zhou rituals and adopted the rituals, practices and ideas of the Han and Cao Wei dynasties , and

3636-534: The Han Chinese after the Manchu conquest. The Chinese changshan was actually a modified version of the changshan worn in the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD), the preceding dynasty before the Qing dynasty, and was modelled after the Manchu's men's changpao . Manchu men wore a type of changpao which reflected its equestrian origins, which was originally designed for horseback riding, known as neitao , which

3737-522: The Han Chinese held symbolic meaning, based on the Taoist Five Elements Theory and the yin and yang theory; each dynasty favoured certain colours. Some elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural clothing, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road . In China, a systemic structure of clothing

3838-501: The Han ethnicity of the later generations. During the Qin and Han dynasties, women wore skirts which was composed of four pieces cloth sewn together; a belt was often attached to the skirt, but the use of a separate belt was sometimes used by women. The male farmers, workers, businessmen and scholars, were all dressed in similar fashion during the Han dynasty; jackets , aprons, and dubikun or leggings were worn by male labourers. The jackets worn by men who engaged in physical work

3939-594: The Mashan site in Jiangling County , Hubei province . During the Warring States period, the shenyi was also developed. The qujupao , a type of shenyi which wrapped in a spiral effect and had fuller sleeves, was found to be worn by tomb figurines of the same period. Unearthed clothing from tombs show that the shenyi was worn by aristocrats in the state of Chu. The increased popularity of

4040-503: The Shanghainese changshan. It is made of silk. Changshan are traditionally worn for formal pictures, weddings, and other formal Chinese events. A black changshan, along with a rounded black hat, was, and sometimes still is, the burial attire for Chinese men. Changshan are not often worn today in mainland China, except during traditional Chinese celebrations but, with the revival of some traditional clothing in urban mainland China,

4141-475: The Shanghainese style functions as a stylish party dress ( cf. Mao suit ). Hanfu Hanfu ( simplified Chinese : 汉服 ; traditional Chinese : 漢服 ; pinyin : Hànfú , lit. " Han clothing"), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of hanfu , such as the ruqun (an upper-body garment with

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4242-571: The Shuiyusi temple of Xiangtangshan Caves dated back to Northern dynasties, male worshippers are usually dressed in Xianbei style attire while women are dressed in Han Chinese style attire wearing skirts and high-waisted, wrap-style robes with wide sleeves. Moreover, after the fall of the Northern Wei, tensions started to rise between the Western Wei (which was more sinicized) and the Eastern Wei (which

4343-486: The Tang dynasty was the wearing of male clothing; it was fashionable for women to dress in male attire in public and in everyday live, especially during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao (742 -756 AD) periods; this fashion started among the members of the nobility and the court maids and gradually spread in the community. Men's attire during the Tang dynasty usually included robes which was worn with trousers, yuanlingpao , belt worn at

4444-450: The Tang dynasty, is a long silk scarf; however it is not used to cover the neck, sometimes it covers the shoulders and other times just hangs from the elbows. Regardless of social status, women in the Tang dynasty tend to be dressed in 3-parts clothing: the upper garment, the skirt, and the pibo (披帛). During the Tang dynasty, there were 4 kinds of waistline for women's skirts: natural waistline; low waistline; high waistline which reached

4545-508: The Tang dynasty, yellow-coloured robes and shirts were reserved for emperors; a tradition which was kept until the Qing dynasty . Moreover, the subjects of the Tang dynasty were forbidden from using ochre yellow colour as Emperor Gaozu used this colour for his informal clothing. The guan was replaced by futou . Scholars and officials wore the futou along with the panling lanshan . Clothing colours and fabric materials continued to play

4646-454: The Warring States period based on archaeological artifacts and sculpted bronze figures, and was worn in the shanqun or ruqun . An archeological example of a bronze figure wearing shanqun is the bronze armed warrior holding up chime bells from the Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng . A dark yellow-skirt, dating from the late Warring States period, was also found in the Chu Tomb (M1) at

4747-478: The Western Zhou dynasty, the dress code of the early Eastern Zhou dynasty was governed by strict rules which was used maintain social order and to distinguish social class. In addition to these class-oriented developments, the daily hanfu in this period became slightly looser while maintaining the basic form the Shang dynasty in the wearing of yichang . Broad and narrow sleeves both co-existed. The yi

4848-460: The Xianbei-style, i.e. V-neck, long tunic which is below knee-length, with the left lapel of the front covering the right; narrow-sleeved tunic which is worn on top of round-collared undergarment are also depicted. High-waisted skirt style, which likely came from Central Asia, was also introduced to Han Chinese during the Northern Wei dynasty. Of note, significant changes occurred to the form of

4949-415: The body's natural curves through wrapping of upper garment lapels or binding with sashes at the waist. From ancient times, the ru upper garments of hanfu were typically worn wrapped over the front, in a style known as jiaoling youren ; the left side covering the right side and extend to the wearer's right waist. Initially, the style was used because of the habit of the right-handed wearer to wrap

5050-455: The bust-line with ribbons also strongly influenced the Korean Hanbok . The women's clothing in the early Tang dynasty were quite similar to the clothing in the Sui dynasty; the upper garment was a short-sleeved short jacket with a low-cut; the lower garment was a tight-fitting skirt which was tied generally above the waist, but sometimes as high as the armpits, and a scarf was wrapped around

5151-423: The bust; and, high waistline above the bust, which could create different kind of women's silhouettes and reflected the ideal images of women of this period. This Tang dynasty-style ensemble would reappear several times even after the Tang dynasty, notably during the Ming dynasty . One of the Tang dynasty's ensembles which consisted of a very short, tight-sleeved jackets and an empire-waisted skirt tied just below

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5252-399: The clothing code of the Han dynasty was restored. The Sui system was also based on the system of Western Jin and Northern Qi . The first emperor of Sui, Emperor Gaozu , would wear tongtianfu on grand occasions, gunyi (衮衣; dragon robe ) on suburban rites and visits to ancestral temple. He also set the colour red as the authoritative colour of the court imperial robes; this included

5353-455: The clothing of emperors and the ceremonial clothing of the princes. Crimson was the colour of martial clothing (i.e. chamber guards, martial guards, generals and duke generals) whereas servants would wear purple clothing, which consisted of hood and loose trousers. During Emperor Gaozu's time, the court official garment was similar to the clothing attire of the commoners, except that it was yellow in colour. Court censors during Emperor Gaozu wore

5454-439: The clothing of princes; these dragon robes were first documented in 694 AD during the reign of Empress Wu Zetian . Common people wore white and soldiers wore black. Common women's attire in the Tang dynasty included shan (衫; a long overcoat or long blouse), ru (襦; a short sweater), banbi , pibo (披帛), and qun (裙; a usually wide, loose skirt which was almost ankle-length). The pibo (披帛), also known as pei (帔) in

5555-589: The clothing of the emperor, feudal dukes, senior officials, soldiers, ancestor worshippers, brides, and mourners. The mianfu was the most distinguished type of formal dress, worn for worshipping and memorial ceremonies; it had a complex structure and there were various decorations which bore symbolic meaning; there were six ranked types of mianfu which were worn by emperors, princes and officials according to their titles. The emperors also wore bianfu (only second to mianfu ) when meeting with officials or if they had to work on official business. When

5656-530: The court to display the wearer's rank and his hierarchical position in the court and ritual functions. For example, both male and female patrons appeared in Xianbei-style attire during the 5th century AD, this can be seen particular at the Yungang caves temples near Datong and in the earliest carvings at Longmen , whereas in the first third of the 6th century, the patrons tend to appear in Chinese-style clothing in

5757-512: The development of weaving , and by the time of the Han dynasty , brocade , damask , satin , and gauze had been developed. From the beginning of its history, hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk and the art of sericulture , supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperor 's consort Leizu , who was also revered as the Goddess of sericulture. There is even a saying in

5858-401: The development of the clothing. Moreover, due to the frequent wars occurring during the Warring States period, various etiquette were slowly revoked. Eastern Zhou dynasty dress code started to erode by the middle of Warring States period. Later, many regions decided not to follow the system of Zhou dynasty; the clothing during this period were differentiated among the seven major states (i.e.

5959-528: The driving dress of the northern minorities, trousers and xi (褶; a tight sleeved, close fitting long jacket, length reaching below crotch and above knees), while the rulers from northern minorities favoured the court dress of the Han Chinese. Near the areas of the Yellow River , the popularity of the ethnic minorities' hufu was high, almost equal to the Han Chinese clothing, in the Sixteen Kingdoms and

6060-431: The emperor were not at court, they wore the xuanduan . Xuanduan could also worn by princes during sacrificial occasions and by scholars who would go pay respect to their parents in the morning. The mianfu , bianfu , and xuanduan all consisted of four separate parts: a skirt underneath, a robe in the middle, a bixi on top, and a long cloth belt dadai ( Chinese : 大带 ). Similarly to

6161-437: The garments which had been originally introduced by the Xianbei and other Turkic people who had settled in northern China after the fall of the Han dynasty ; for example, in the arts and literature which dates from the 5th century, their male clothing appeared to represent the ethnicity of its wearer, but in the 6th century, the attire lost its ethnic significance and did not denote its wearer as Xianbei or non-Chinese. Instead,

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6262-401: The golden parade belts with hanging metal straps of Goguryeo and Silla . Due to the frequent wars in this era, mass migration occurred and resulted in several ethnics living together with communication exchange; as such, this period marked an important time of cultural integration and cultural blending, including the cultural exchange of clothing. Han Chinese living in the south favoured

6363-446: The hanfu is gaining recognition as the traditional clothing of the Han ethnic group, and has experienced a growing fashion revival among young Han Chinese people in China and in the overseas Chinese diaspora. After the Han dynasty , hanfu developed into a variety of styles using fabrics that encompassed a number of complex textile production techniques, particularly with rapid advancements in sericulture . Hanfu has influenced

6464-485: The lapel opening was typically zuoren. Xianbei people also wore Xianbei-style cloaks and xianbei hat (鮮卑帽; xianbei mao). Despite the sinicization policies attempted by the Northern Wei court, the nomadic style clothing continued to exist in China until Tang dynasty . For example, narrow and tight sleeves, which was well adapted to nomadic life-style, started to be favoured and was adopted by Han Chinese. In

6565-596: The majority of Northern Wei caves at Longmen; this change in clothing style has been suggested to be the result of sinicization policies regarding the adoption of Chinese-style clothing in the Northern Wei court. Earliest images of nomadic Xianbei-style dress in China tend to be depicted as a knee-length tunic with narrow sleeves, with a front opening, which can typically be collarless, round-collared, and sometimes be V-neck collared; men and women tend to wear that knee-length tunic over trousers for men and long, ground-length skirts for women. When their tunics had lapelled,

6666-432: The material used. During the Sui dynasty, an imperial decree which regulated clothing colour stated that lower class could only wear muted blue or black clothing; upper class on the other hand were allowed to wear brighter colours, such as red and blue. Women wore ruqun consisting of short jackets and long skirts. The women's skirts were characterized with high waistline which created a silhouette which looked similar to

6767-423: The nomadic dress had turned into a type of male ordinary dress in the Sui and early Tang dynasties regardless of ethnicity. On the other hand, the Xianbei women gradually abandoned their ethnic Xianbei clothing and adopted Han Chinese-style and Central Asian-style clothing to the point that by the Sui dynasty, women in China were no longer wearing steppe clothing. The Sui and the Tang dynasties developed

6868-414: The officials. The official seal was then placed in a leather pouch, was put on its wearer's waist and the ribbon, which came in different colours, size, and texture to indicate ranking, would hang outside the pouch. Throughout the years, Han dynasty women commonly also wore ruqun of various colours. The combination of upper and lower garments in women's wardrobe eventually became the clothing model of

6969-500: The ones found in the neitao . The precursors of both the changshan and the qipao were introduced to China during the Qing dynasty (17th–20th centuries). The Manchus in 1636 ordered that all Han Chinese should adopt the Manchu's hairstyle as well as their attire of dress or face harsh punishment including death penalty. However, by the time of the Qianlong Emperor , however, the adoption of Manchu clothing dressing code

7070-466: The right side first. Later, the people of the Central Chinese Plain discouraged left-handedness, considering it unnatural, barbarian, uncivilized, and unfortunate. The youren collar follows the yin and yang theory , wherein the left lapel represents the yang (which symbolizes life) suppresses the yin (which symbolizes death); therefore, youren is the clothing of the living while if it

7171-452: The rigid Confucian system; this showed up in how they would dress themselves. The style of men's paofu gradually changed into a more simple and casual style, while the style of women's paofu increased in complexity. During the Three Kingdoms and Jin period, especially during the Eastern Jin period (317 – 420 AD), aristocratic women sought for a carefree life style after the collapse of

7272-494: The rites and culture of its people, which became the basis for the Li (禮) orthodoxy of Confucianism that dominated East Asian culture for 2000 years. In reference to this, Ruist writings such as Kong Yingda 's "True Meaning of Chunqiu - Zuo zhuan " suggest that the term huaxia (華夏) referred to both the ceremonial etiquettes of the central states and the clothing that those states' denizens wore. Principle of this practice

7373-417: The robe became loose on the wearer's body so a wide band functioned as belt was in use to organise the fitting, and the sleeves of the robe changed to "wide-open" instead of cinched at the wrist; this style is referred as bao yi bo dai , and usually worn with inner shirt and trousers. In some instances, the upper part of the robe was loose and open with no inner garment worn; men wearing this style of robe

7474-483: The sacrificial garments which were used to differentiate social ranks in the earlier times. In addition, regulations on the ornaments used by emperors, councillors, dukes, princes, ministers and officials were specified. There were distinct styles of clothing based on social ranks, these regulations were accompanied with Confucian rituals. Different kind of headgear, weaving and fabric material, as well as ribbons attached to officials seals, were also used to distinguish

7575-434: The shoulders. The banbi was commonly worn on top of a plain top and was worn together with high-waisted, striped or one-colour A-line skirt in the seventh century. Red coloured skirts were very popular during the Tang dynasty. In the middle of the Tang dynasty, women who had a plump appearance were favoured; thus, the clothing became looser, the sleeves became longer and wider, the upper garment became strapless, and

7676-539: The states of Chu , Han , Qin , Wei , Yan , Qi and Zhao ). Moreover, the year 307 B.C. also marked an important year with the first reform of the military uniform implemented by King Wuling of Zhao . This reform, commonly referred to as Hufuqishe , required all Zhao soldiers to wear the Hufu -style uniforms of the Donghu , Linhu and Loufan people in battle to facilitate fighting capability. The hedangku with

7777-453: The status of adulthood in men. One form of kerchief was ze (帻); it was a headband that keep the head warm during cold weather. Over time the ze was attached with a head covering scarf, or jin (巾), and developed into a full cap called jinze (巾帻). The jinze was adopted into widespread use and worn commonly by military personnel and commoners. Military jinze was red in color, also called chize (赤帻). Another variant with

7878-578: The term is frequently used to refer to the female garment, cheongsam , rather than the male garment changshan . Because of the long British presence in Hong Kong , that local usage has become reflected in the meaning of cheongsam in English, which refers exclusively to the female garment. What is now known as the Chinese changshan was developed by the Han Chinese during the Qing dynasty . The Qing dynasty Chinese changshan started to be worn by

7979-419: The time of Han dynasty , the shenyi remained popular and developed further into two types: qujupao and zhijupao . The robes appeared to be similar, regardless of gender, in cut and construction: a wrap closure, held by a belt or a sash, with large sleeves gathered in a narrower cuff; however, the fabric, colours and ornaments of the robes were different between gender. However, later during

8080-414: The time of Han dynasty. The original hair sticks ji evolved to zanzi with more decorations. And a new type of women hair ornament invented during Han dynasty was the buyao , which was zanzi added with dangling decorations that would sway when the wearer walk and was unique to the Han Chinese women. The paofu worn in the Han dynasty continued to evolve. During this period, 220–589 AD,

8181-608: The traditional clothing of many neighbouring cultures , including the Korean Hanbok , the Japanese kimono ( wafuku ), the Ryukyuan ryusou , and the Vietnamese áo giao lĩnh ( Vietnamese clothing ). Elements of hanfu design have also influenced Western fashion , especially through Chinoiserie fashion , due to the popularity of Chinoiserie since the 17th century in Europe and in

8282-719: The waist, holding hu , and stuck ink brush between head and ears. There was an increase in the popularity of robes with large sleeves with cuff laces among men. In ordinary times, men wore ruku whereas the women wore ruqun . Merchants , regardless of their wealth, were never allowed to wear clothing made of silk . The commoners and labourers wore jiaolingpao with narrow sleeves, trousers , and skirts; they braided their hairs or simply wore skull caps and kerchiefs. The making of different kinds of qun ( 裙 ; 'skirt'; called xie ( 衺 ) in Qin dynasty), shangru ( 上襦 ; 'jacket'), daru ( 大襦 ; 'outwear') and ku -trousers

8383-479: The wrist. The court dress was still xuanyi (玄衣; dark cloth); however, there were regulations in terms of fabric materials used. In the Northern dynasties (386 - 581 AD), ordinary women always wore short jackets and coats. The ethnic Xianbei founded the Northern Wei dynasty in 398 A.D. and continued to wear their traditional, tribal nomadic clothing to denote themselves as members of the ruling elite until c. 494 A.D. when Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei decreed

8484-695: Was a Hanfu created by assimilating non-Han Chinese cultures. New forms of belts with buckles, dubbed as "Jin style", were also designed during the Western Jin. The "Jin style" belts were later exported to several foreign ethnicities (including the Murong Xianbei , the Kingdom of Buyeo , the early Türks and the Eurasian Avars ); these belts was later imitated by the Murong Xianbei and Buyeo before evolving into

8585-516: Was also the most striking feature in China in the sixth-century AD. From the mural paintings found in the Tomb of Xu Xianxiu of the Northern Qi , various types of attire are depicted which reflect the internationalism and multiculturalism of the Northern Qi; many of the attire styles are derived from Central Asia or nomadic designs. The wife of Xu Xianxiu is depicted with a flying-bird bun ; she

8686-548: Was characterized by two pair of slits (one slit on each side, one slit on the back, and one slit on the front) which increased ease of movement when mounting and dismounting horses, a pianjin collar (a collar which curved like the alphabet《S》), and the sleeve cuffs known as matixiu ( Chinese : 马蹄袖 ; pinyin : mǎtíxiù ; lit. 'horse hoof cuff'). The Han Chinese thus adopted certain Manchu elements when modifying their Ming dynasty changshan , such as by slimming their changshan , by adopting

8787-490: Was closed with a sash which was tied around the waist; jade decorations were sometimes hung from the sash. The length of the skirts and ku could vary from knee-length to ground-length. Common people in the Zhou dynasty, including the minority groups in Southwest China, wore hemp -based clothing. The Zhou dynasty also formalized women's wearing of ji with a coming-of-age ceremony called Ji Li , which

8888-460: Was featured in the painting Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove . The bao yi bo dai style appears to have been a northern Han Chinese style, and the popularity of the robe was a result of the widespread Taoism . In the Jin dynasty , in particular, while many clothing of the Han dynasty were maintained, scholars and adherents of Neo-Taoism rejected the traditional court dress and retreated from

8989-401: Was first developed during the Shang dynasty , where colours, designs, and rules governing use was implemented across the social strata. Only primary colours (i.e. red, blue, and yellow) and green were used due to the degree of technology at the time. The rudiments of hanfu was developed in this period; the combination of upper and lower garments, called yichang , was usually worn with

9090-492: Was less sinicized and resented the sinicized court of Northern Wei). Due to the shift in politics, Han and non-Han Chinese ethnic tensions arose between the successor states of Northern Wei; and Xianbei-style clothing reappeared; however, their clothing had minor changes. At the end of the Northern and Southern dynasties, foreign immigrants started to settle in China; most of those foreign immigrants were traders and buddhists missionaries from Central Asia . Cultural diversity

9191-567: Was made of plain cloth instead of silk cloth. The shanku of this period also influenced the Hufu . Aristocratic figures did not wear those kind of clothing however, they were wearing wider-sleeved long paofu which was belted at the waist; one example can be seen from the wooden figures from a Xingyang Warring States period tomb. The youren closures could be found in different shapes, such as jiaoling youren and quju youren . Skirts also appear to have been worn during

9292-661: Was not well-perceived for women to wear trousers; women wore skirts. Based on tomb figures dating from the Southern dynasties, it is known that the robes worn during those period continued the long, wide-sleeves, youren opening tradition. The robes continued to be fastened with a girdle and was worn over a straight-neck undergarment. Tomb figures depicted as servants in this period are also shown wearing skirts, aprons, trousers and upper garments with vertical opening or youren opening . Servants wore narrow-sleeved upper garment whereas attendants had wider sleeves which could be knotted above

9393-475: Was only required to the scholar-official elites and did not apply to the entire male population. The court dress of the Qing dynasty also had to follow the attire of the Manchu people; however, commoner Han men and women were still allowed to wear the hanfu under some circumstances and/or if they fell under the exemptions of the Tifayifu policy. The order of wearing Manchu's hairstyle however still remained as

9494-539: Was performed after a girl was engaged and the wearing of ji showed a girl was already promised to a marriage. Men could also wear ji alone, however more commonly men wore ji with the guan to fix the headwear. During the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period , numerous schools of thought emerged in China, including Confucianism ; those different schools of thoughts naturally influenced

9595-425: Was replaced by the rongyi (戎衣) attire. Emperor Yangdi also wore several kind of imperial headgears, such as wubian , baishamao (白紗帽; white gauze cap ), and the wushamao . Civil officials wore jinxianguan , and the wushamao was popular and was worn from court officials to commoners. The quefeiguan was also replaced by the xiezhiguan , which could also be used to denote the censor's rank based on

9696-465: Was sometimes depicted longer; they also wore long skirt or trousers. Attendants (not to be confused with servants) on the other hand are depicted wearing two layers of garment and wore a long skirt reaching the ground with long flowing sleeved jacket. The jacket is sometimes closed with a belt or a fastener. White colour was the colour worn by commoner people during the Three Kingdoms and Jin period. Commoner-style clothing from this period can be seen on

9797-523: Was the Emperor Ming of Han formalized the dress code of Han dynasty in 59 AD, during the Eastern Han, restoring the ceremonial use of mianfu system from the prior junxuan of the Qin dynasty. According to the new dress code, the emperor had to be dressed in a black-coloured upper garment and in an ocher yellow-coloured lower garment. The Shangshu – Yiji 《尚书益稷》records the 12 ornaments used on

9898-464: Was the standardization of a garment style called Shangyi Xiachang (上衣下裳, " upper top , and lower garnment ", meaning separating the upper and lower garments into two items). Though the fashion gradually evolved and was replaced by styles such as shenyi , the Shangyi Xiachang still maintained as the basis for formal and ceremonial wear such as the mianfu and chaofu . This created

9999-425: Was used as a symbol of higher status and could only be worn by people of distinguished background. The emperors wore tongtianguan (通天冠) when meeting with their imperial subjects, yuanyouguan (遠遊冠) were worn by dukes and princes; jinxianguan (進賢冠) was worn by civil officials while military officials wore wuguan (武冠). The kerchief was a piece of clothing that wrapped around the head, and it symbolized

10100-537: Was used to distinguish social ranks; the use of guan was one of the distinctive features of the Hanfu system, and men could only wear it after the Adulthood ceremony known as Guan Li . Other markers of status included the fabric materials, the shape, size, colour of the clothing, the decorative pattern, the length of a skirt, the wideness of a sleeve, and the degree of ornamentation. There were strict regulations on

10201-431: Was worn together with a guan and shoes. The Qin dynasty also abolished Zhou dynasty's mianfu ranking system, replaced with a uniform type of black shenyi called junxuan (袀玄) and tongtianguan instead of the mianguan for the emperor, with the officials following suit and wearing the same black robes. In court, the officials wore hats, loose robes with carving knives hanging from

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