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68-612: Artziniega (Spanish: Arceniega ) is a town and municipality in the province of Álava , in the Basque Country , northern Spain. Located in the northwest of Araba , on the border with Burgos , Castile and León and Biscay , it was at the junction between the old Kingdom of Castile and the ports of the Bay of Biscay . The town probably derives its name from the Basque "Artzain-aga," meaning "place of shepherds." The municipality of Artziniega

136-524: A few nearby villages. As the fascist army advanced westward from Navarre, defenses were planned and erected around Bilbao, called the Iron Belt. But the engineer in charge, José Goicoechea , defected to the Nationalists, causing the unfinished defenses to be of little value. In 1937, German airplanes under Franco's control destroyed the historic city of Gernika , after having bombed Durango with less severity

204-691: A few weeks before. Some months later, Bilbao fell to the fascists. The Basque army ( Eusko Gudarostea ) retreated to Santoña, beyond the limits of Biscay. There they surrendered to the Italian forces ( Santoña Agreement ), but the Italians yielded to Franco. Other Republican forces considered the surrender a betrayal by the Basques. Under the dictatorship of Franco, Biscay and Gipuzkoa (exclusively) were declared "traitor provinces" because of their opposition and stripped of any sort of self-rule. Only after Franco's death in 1975

272-440: A large degree of autonomy in their local affairs: many of the functions of the comarcas and provinces are municipal powers pooled together. All citizens of Spain are required to register in the municipality they live in, and after doing so, they are juridically considered "neighbors" (residents) of the municipality, a designation that grants them various rights and privileges, and which entail certain obligations as well, including

340-399: A less important source of protein, as the people relied on sheep, goats and some bovine cattle. Metallic tools become more common but stone-made ones are also used. Pottery types shows great continuity (not decorated) until the bell beaker makes its appearance. The sites of this period now cover all the territory of Biscay, many being open air settlements, but the most important caves of

408-518: A period of expansion in which space outside the walls began to be occupied and the wealth generated by discovery directly resulted in the development of the Villa. There are many Artziniegans who made their fortune in the Americas at this period. For example, in 1590, the bachelor Pedro Sáenz de Ubaldi founded a hospital in front of the parish. It was later transferred to the canton of Zubiaur, and later again to

476-519: A population of three in 2022 ). Almost 40% of the Spanish population resides in just 62 municipalities with more than 100,000 inhabitants. 84% (6,817) of municipalities have less than 5,000 inhabitants. Castile and León alone account for 28% of municipalities but they constitute less than 6% of the population of Spain. A European report said that one of the most important problems facing local governments in Spain

544-415: A second-order town in terms of commercial importance. Once founded (probably on a previous human settlement), the Villa would henceforth be governed by the jurisdiction of Biscay , the native of the land, and for economic and tax matters by the jurisdiction of Vitoria-Gasteiz . Until Don Tello's death, it belonged to Biscay, but upon his death, in 1370, he handed it over to his brother, King Enrique II, who

612-604: A singular tree of the Basque Country . The repopulated pine forests occupy large areas. On the slopes of Mount Pando, between the limits with Gordexola , Valle de Mena and Mendieta, you can see repopulations of distinguished pine. On the other hand, in Mount Peñalba , the lariceo pine has been used on its southern slope and the maritime pine in the northeast, more adapted to the soil and climate conditions of that area. Fauna abounds in all these areas ( wild boars , roe deer , raptors, hares , genets ). The area of Artziniega

680-541: A total of 8,131 municipalities in Spain, including the autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla . In the Principality of Asturias , municipalities are officially named concejos (councils). The average population of a municipality is about 5,300, but this figure masks a huge range: the most populous Spanish municipality is the city of Madrid , with a population of 3,305,408 (2022) , while several rural municipalities have fewer than ten inhabitants ( Illán de Vacas , had

748-565: A year later handed it over to Pedro López de Ayala, the Chancellor, along with the valleys of Orozko and Laudio . It was at the time when Don Tello controlled the town when it was besieged by Pedro Fernández de Velasco, specifically in 1366. After that, and until 1817, the lords and dukes of Ayala (and later the dukes of Veragua, Berwick and Liria) had the prerogative of appointing mayors in Artziniega, but they never exercised it, since although it

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816-581: Is a Biscayan exclave located between Alava and Burgos provinces. The climate is oceanic , with high precipitation all year round and moderate temperatures, which allow the lush vegetation to grow. Temperatures are more extreme in the higher lands of inner Biscay, where snow is more common during winter. The average high temperatures in main city Bilbao is between 13 °C (55 °F) in January and 26 °C (79 °F) in August. The main geographical features of

884-401: Is called ayuntamiento ( municipal council or corporation ), a term often also used to refer to the municipal headquarters (city/town hall). The ayuntamiento is composed of the mayor (Spanish: alcalde ), the deputy mayors (Spanish: tenientes de alcalde ) and the deliberative assembly ( pleno ) of councillors ( concejales ). Another form of local government used in small municipalities

952-560: Is dominated in Biscay by the Azilian culture. Tools become smaller and more refined and, while hunting remains, fishing and seafood gathering become more important; there is evidence of consumption of wild fruits as well. Santimamiñe is one of the most important sites of this period. Others are Arenaza , Atxeta (not far from Santimamiñe), Lumentxa and nearby Urtiaga and Santa Catalina, together with Bolinkoba and neighbour Silibranka . While

1020-519: Is known as "Hiriko Atea" ( city gate ), and another in the extreme west, giving to the area of public use called "Beheko Zelaia". Of the wall itself, there are only visible remains in the lower part of some houses in the lower part of the historic center, and in the upper part, in the walk that includes the town behind the Parish , the latter being the most visible area from the chemin de ronde . In Artziniega there are different types of monuments, depending on

1088-532: Is located in an environment of great scenic beauty and environmental value, in a mountainous Cantabrian area close to the plateau formed by Gorobel and Sierra de Carbonilla, (also called Sierra de Angulo). These mountains mark the abrupt limit of the Castilian plateau with the Atlantic slope and are places of great beauty, with dense forests, cliffs, rocks and mountain meadows. Within the municipality of Artziniega in

1156-569: Is recorded in 1070 in a donation act to the monastery of Bickaga , located on the ria of Mundaka. It is considered then, that Biscay was by this period controlled by the Kingdom of Navarre . It then became autonomous and finally a part of the Crown of Castile , as the Lordship of Biscay . In the modern age , the province became a major commercial and industrial area. Its prime harbour of Bilbao soon became

1224-470: Is the concejo abierto (open council), in which the deliberative assembly is formed by all the electors in the municipality. The operation of the municipalities is broadly outlined by the 1985 Local Government Act. The Statutes of Autonomy of the various autonomous communities also contain provisions and many sectorial laws from national and autonomous community government determine the functions and powers of ayuntamientos. In general, municipalities enjoy

1292-633: Is the official name, and it is used on official documents and national media. It is also the name used in the Basque version of the Spanish constitution , and of the Statute of Autonomy of the Basque Country . Bizkaia is the only official name in Spanish or Basque approved for the historical territory by the General Council of the province and the Spanish laws. Vizcaya is the hispanized modulation for

1360-419: Is the very high number of little towns with a low number of inhabitants. The area of the municipal territory (Spanish: término municipal ) usually ranges 2–40 km , but some municipalities span across a much larger area, up to the 1,750.33 km of Cáceres ', the largest municipality in the country. The average land area of a Spanish municipality is about 62.23 km (24.03 sq mi), while

1428-558: The Bay of Biscay and of the first unstable settlement by Europeans in Newfoundland . They signed separate treaties with other powers, particularly England. After the Napoleonic wars , Biscay, along with the other Basque provinces, were threatened to have their self-rule cut by the now Liberal Spanish Cortes . Together with opposing factions that supported different parties for the throne, this desire to maintain foral rights contributed to

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1496-504: The Kingdom of Castile and the ports of the Bay of Biscay , which meant that there were some lineages of a certain wealth (for example, the Bengoa, Ortiz de Molinillo-Velasco, and Monteano), but in reality the local activities were primarily agrarian in nature. In agriculture and livestock husbandry, Artziniega was not prominent. However, it was a first-rate Txakoli -producing town. As for the Wars of

1564-615: The Middle Ages , an important supra-municipal institution for Artziniega, the Junta de Ordunte , was constituted, which grouped the Villa and the neighboring Ayalese towns (Mendieta, Retes de Tudela, Santa Coloma and Soxoguti), to settle common matters, such as the use of the mountains and pastures. After the first years of transition from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance , Artziniega experienced

1632-617: The Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Oak, remains of a settlement with Roman culture dated between the 4th and 6th centuries have been found. In the garden of the same sanctuary, which already dates from the Romanesque , a stele dating from the 9th century remained until the mid-nineties. The written history of Artziniega begins in the year 1272, when the King of Castile , Alfonso X El Sabio , granted Artziniega

1700-727: The Second Spanish Republic , the Basque Nationalist Party (PNV) governed the province. When the Spanish Civil War broke out in 1936, Biscay supported the Republican side against Francisco Franco 's army and ideology. Soon after, the Republic acknowledged a statute of autonomy for the Basque Country. Due to fascist control of large parts of it, the first short-lived Basque Autonomous Community had power only over Biscay and

1768-579: The Wayback Machine . In the late Roman period, together with the rest of the Basque Country, Biscay seems to have revolted against Roman domination and the growing society organized by feudalism . In the Early Middle Ages , the history of Biscay cannot be separated from that of the Basque Country as a whole. The area was de facto independent although Visigoths and Franks attempted to assert their domination from time to time. Encounters between

1836-423: The dictatorship , the urbanization of land near the Villa took place in Artziniega, and the new neighborhoods of Eguzkimendi, Arenaza or El Palacio emerged. This urban growth has accelerated enormously in recent years, which has led to a very large population increase, placing the municipality at approximately 1,700 inhabitants, although there is a very large floating population. The historical-monumental complex of

1904-570: The 1850s extensive prime quality iron resources were discovered in Biscay. This brought much foreign investment mainly from England and France. Development of these resources led to greater industrialization, which made Biscay one of Spain's richest provinces. Together with the industrialisation , important bourgeois families, such as Ybarra, Chávarri and Lezama-Leguizamón , developed from the new sources of wealth. The great industrial ( Iberdrola , Altos Hornos de Vizcaya ) and financial ( Banco Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria - BBVA) groups were created. During

1972-576: The 1970s, the economy has come to rely more on the services sector . It is accepted in linguistics ( Koldo Mitxelena , etc.) that Bizkaia is a cognate of bizkar (cf. Biscarrosse in Aquitaine ), with both place-name variants well attested in the whole Basque Country and out meaning 'low ridge' or 'prominence' ( Iheldo bizchaya attested in 1141 for the Monte Igueldo in San Sebastián ). Bizkaia

2040-458: The 2010 INE census, Biscay had a population of 1,155,772 and a population density of 519.9 inhabitants/km , only surpassed by the one of Madrid and Barcelona . In 1981 Biscay was the fifth Spanish province in population, and despite the strong demographic crisis the province has been living since the Transition it is today the ninth province in population. A 2021 survey found that 30.6% of

2108-450: The Arenaza neighborhood, where it remained until the middle of the 20th century. A similar occurrence was the foundation of the first Artziniega schools through a donation from Pedro de Oribe Salazar in 1608. At this time, unaccustomed historical events took place in Artziniega, such as the disputes with some young people from Artziniega who refused to do military service, or the rejection that

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2176-547: The Bands, the Villa was surrounded by violence, including an attempted siege. An example of the impact of this violent period, is the request made by the Artziniega ironworks to the Monarchs in 1491, as a result of the abuses they had suffered at the hands of Largacha of Iratzagorría, whose family's interest in the iron trade had long been great. In the 15th century, the town was endowed with ordinances that give testimony of daily life and

2244-521: The Caristian territory, with an exception of the areas that have lost the old language. There is no indication to resistance to Roman occupation in all the Basque area (excepting Aquitaine ) until the late feudalizing period. Roman sources mention several towns in the area, Flaviobriga and Portus Amanus, though they have not been located. The site of Forua , near Gernika , has yielded archaeological evidence of Roman presence [1] Archived 12 March 2007 at

2312-553: The Crown of Castile. It was conditioned on the lord swearing to defend and maintain the fuero (Biscayan laws, derived from Navarrese and Basque customary rights), which affirmed that the possessors of the sovereignty of the lordship were the Biscayans and that, at least in theory, they could refute the lord. The lords and later the kings, came to swear the Statutes to the oak of Gernika , where

2380-517: The Paleolithic are still in use as well. Few sites have been identified for this period. Caves are abandoned for the most part but they still reveal some remains. The main caves of prehistory (Arenaza, Santimamiñe, Lumentxa) were still inhabited. Roman geographers identified two tribes in the territory now known as Biscay: the Caristii and Autrigones . The Caristii dwelt in nuclear Biscay, east of

2448-572: The Visigoths and Basques usually led to defeat for the latter. The Visigoths established an outlying post at the later city of Vitoria to counter incursions and the migration of Basques from the coastal regions to the north. In 905, Leonese chronicles define for the first time the Kingdom of Pamplona as including all the western Basque provinces , as well as the Rioja region. The territories that would later constitute Biscay were included in that state. In

2516-498: The advances adopted seem limited initially to sheep, domestic goats and very scarce pottery . Together with Neolithic technologies, Megalithism also arrives. It will be the most common form of burial (simple dolmen ) until c.  1500 BCE . While open-air settlement started to become common as the population grew, they still used caves and natural shelters in Biscay in the Chalcolithic and Bronze Age . Hunting game became

2584-537: The age of they were built. Municipalities of Spain Although provinces are groupings of municipalities , there is no implied hierarchy or primacy of one over the other. Instead the two entities are defined according to the authority or jurisdiction of each ( Spanish : competencias ). Some autonomous communities also group municipalities into entities known as comarcas (districts) or mancomunidades (commonwealths). The governing body in most municipalities

2652-550: The ancient Lordship of Biscay , lying on the south shore of the eponymous bay . The capital and largest city is Bilbao . Biscay is one of the most renowned and prosperous provinces of Spain, historically a major trading hub in the Atlantic Ocean since medieval times and, later on, one of the largest industrial and financial centers of the Iberian Peninsula . Since the extensive deindustrialization that took place throughout

2720-630: The assembly of the Lordship sits. In the modern ages commerce took on great importance, specially for the Port of Bilbao , to which the kings granted privileges in 1511 for trade with the ports of the Spanish Empire . Bilbao was already the main Castilian harbour, from where wool was shipped to Flanders , and other goods were imported. In 1628, the separate territory of Durango was incorporated to Biscay. In

2788-520: The attorney for Artziniega suffered at the General Councils of Álava in 1674 because he did not know Spanish, and spoke only Euskara, the Basque language . During the last Carlist war , Artziniega suffered fighting and the archives and Civil Registry of the Villa were burned, losing important documents. In the Spanish Civil War , Artziniega was also involved in the conflict and witnessed the advance of

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2856-431: The average population is about 5,988 people. Municipalities were first created by decree on 23 May 1812 as part of the liberal reforms associated with the new Spanish Constitution of 1812 and based on similar actions in revolutionary France. The idea was to rationalise and homogenise territorial organisation, do away with the prior feudal system and provide equality before the law of all citizens. Between 1812 and 1931,

2924-453: The city of Urduina . It is unclear when this happened, but tradition says that Iñigo López was the first Lord of Biscay in 1043. The title to the lordship was inherited by Iñigo López's descendants until, by inheritance, in 1370 it passed to John I of Castile . It became one of the titles of the king of Castile. Since then it remained connected to the crown, first to that of Castile and then, from Charles I , to that of Spain , as ruler of

2992-538: The conflicts that the newly sovereign Kingdom of Castile and Pamplona/Navarre had in the 11th and 12th century, the Castilians were supported by many landowners from La Rioja, who sought to consolidate their holdings under Castilian feudal law. These pro-Castilian lords were led by the house of Haro , who were eventually granted the rule of newly created Biscay, initially made up of the valleys of Uribe , Busturia , Markina , Zornotza and Arratia , plus several towns and

3060-509: The fascist troops for their lands during 1937. At first, Artziniega was outside the national zone (unlike most of the province of Álava ), but the advance of the fascist towards Bilbao made it fall. With the entry of the rebellious troops, the mayor of Artziniega, Juan Zabalgoitia, of the PNV, was imprisoned, sentenced to jail and transferred to the El Puerto de Santa María prison. In the last years of

3128-427: The first evidences of Neolithic contact in the Basque Country can be dated to the 4th millennium BCE, it was not until the beginning of the 3rd that the area accepted, gradually and without radical changes, the advances of agricultural cultivation and domestication of sheep. Biscay was not particularly affected by this change and only three sites can be mentioned for this period: Arenaza, Santimamiñe and Kobeaga (Ea) and

3196-491: The firth of Bilbao, extending also into Northern Araba and some areas of Gipuzkoa , up to the river Deba. The Autrigones dwelt in the westernmost part of Biscay and Araba, extending also into the provinces of Cantabria , Burgos and La Rioja . Based in toponymy, historical and archaeological evidence, it is thought that these tribes spoke the Basque language . The borders of the Biscayan dialect of Basque seem to be those of

3264-519: The following: Paleolithic art is also present. The Benta Laperra cave has the oldest paintings, maybe from the Aurignacian or Solutrean period. Bison and bear are the animals depicted, together with abstract signs. The murals of Arenaza (Galdames) and Santimamiñe were created in later periods (Magdalenian). In Arenaza female deer are the dominant motif; Santimamiñe features bison, horses, goats and deer. This period (also called Mesolithic sometimes)

3332-533: The foral law was amended to extend it to the towns and the city of Urduina, which had previously always used the general Spanish Civil law . Biscay is bordered by the community of Cantabria and the province of Burgos (in the Castile and León community) to the west, the Basque provinces of Gipuzkoa to the east, and Álava to the south, and by the Cantabrian Sea ( Bay of Biscay ) to the north. Orduña ( Urduña )

3400-521: The forms Bizkai and Bizcai ) is in the Chronicle of Alfonso III in the late 9th century, which tells of the regions repopulated under orders of Alfonso I , and how some territories "owned by their own", among them Biscay, were not affected by these repopulations. Biscay is mentioned again in the 10th-century Códice de Roda , which narrates the wedding between Velazquita, daughter of Sancho I of Pamplona , to Munio Velaz , Count of Álava , in Biscay. It

3468-650: The given name, used in non-official documents, as recommended by the Royal Spanish Academy . It is also the co-official name used in the Spanish version of the Constitution, and of the Statute of Autonomy of the Basque Country. Biscay has been inhabited since the Middle Paleolithic , as attested by the archaeological remains and cave paintings found in its many caves. The Roman presence had little impact in

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3536-487: The legislation regarding municipal organisation was changed more than 20 times, and there were 20 addition and unsuccessful proposals for change. Biscay Biscay ( / ˈ b ɪ s k eɪ , ˈ b ɪ s k i / BISK -ay, BISK -ee ; Basque : Bizkaia [bis̻kai.a] ; Spanish: Vizcaya [biθˈkaʝa] ) or Bizkaia , is a province of the Basque Autonomous Community , heir of

3604-455: The letter-town. This foundation most likely obeys the desire of the King of Castile to found a town halfway between Urduña and Balmaseda that would allow it to rival these towns, belonging to the lords of Biscay . However, after a short time, due to family circumstances, the kings of Castile themselves would become lords of Biscay, so Artziniega did not fulfill his strategic function and remained as

3672-588: The main Castilian gateway to Europe. Later, in the 19th and 20th centuries, the abundance of prime quality iron ore and the lack of feudal castes favored rapid industrialization. The first evidence of human dwellings ( Neanderthal people) in Biscay happens in this period of prehistory. Mousterian artifacts have been found in three sites in Biscay: Benta Laperra (Karrantza), Kurtzia (Getxo) and Murua (Durangoaldea). The most important settlements by anotomically modern humans ( H. sapiens ) can be considered

3740-401: The medieval town of Artziniega is one of the best preserved in the Basque Country . It maintains its original structure located on a hill and composed of three parallel streets linked by two cantons. The almost perfect conservation of this structure is due to the fact that the town did not reach the importance with which it was conceived. The intramural space was gradually occupied, starting with

3808-401: The presence of numerous yews stands out, becoming so numerous at some points that they form yew trees. On Mount Otsati, the largest lorera in the Basque Country was discovered in 2016, straddling Álava and Burgos . At the entrance to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Oak and in the vicinity of a recreational area, you can see an oak that is more than 500 years old and classified as

3876-493: The province are: Historically, Biscay was divided into merindades (called eskualdeak in Basque ), which were two, the Constituent ones and the ones incorporated later. The constituent ones were ( the number indicates their position on the map ): Incorporated later: Currently, Biscay is divided into seven comarcas or regions, each one with its own capital city, subdivisions and municipalities. These are: According to

3944-575: The region, and the Basque language and traditions have survived to this day. According to Anton Erkoreka, the Vikings had a commercial base there from which they were expelled by 825. Mundaka is likely a Viking name, and the ria of Mundaka is the easiest route to the river Ebro and at the end of it, the Mediterranean Sea and trade. The first time Biscay is mentioned with that name (in Latin in

4012-441: The right to vote or be elected for public office in said municipality. The right to vote in municipal elections is extended to Spanish citizens living abroad. A Spaniard abroad, upon registering in a consulate , has the right to vote in the local elections of the last municipality they resided in. A Spanish citizen born abroad must choose between the last municipality his or her mother or father last lived in. As of 2022, there were

4080-432: The same century the so-called chartered municipalities west of Biscay were also incorporated in different dates, becoming another subdivision of Biscay: Encartaciones (Enkarterriak). The coastal towns had a sizable fleet of their own, mostly dedicated to fishing and trade. Along with other Basque towns of Gipuzkoa and Labourd , they were largely responsible for the partial extinction of North Atlantic right whales in

4148-467: The successive Carlist Wars . The Biscayan government and other Basque provinces supported Carlos V , who represented an autocratic monarch who would preserve tradition. Many of the towns though, notably Bilbao, were aligned with the Liberal government of Madrid . In the end, with victory by anti-Carlists, the wars resulted in successive cuts of the wide autonomy held by Biscay and the other provinces. In

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4216-520: The surroundings of the Villa there are large areas of grassland dotted with some orchards. In the past, the areas cultivated with wheat, barley or vine were much more extensive, as a result of supply needs, but today most of these lands are pastures, and many of them have been urbanized in recent years. In the mountainous areas there is an important forest mass of leafy characteristics of the Atlantic gall oaks, made up of oaks, holm oaks, maples, ash trees and other types of native trees. On Mount Ganzorrotz,

4284-430: The then-current economic activities: cultivation of wheat, grapevines , livestock, and the work of the mills , and urban trades such as weavers , waiters , and bakers. The weekly market had great importance even then, since Artziniega has been during its history the economic center of the region. Its annual September fairs were events that lasted fifteen days, at this period of the town's existence. At this time, during

4352-425: The upper part and dates from the 16th century, despite the fact that most of them have undergone subsequent reforms. As for the walls that surrounded the town, because in reality they were not too necessary, already by the seventeenth century it seems that they lacked entity, and only specific areas were preserved, such as the gates, which do not exist today, and of which it is believed that there were two, one in what

4420-458: The upper part and the area attached to the Parish of Our Lady of the Assumption (which served as the backbone area) and extending towards Artekale (middle street). The lower part of the town was largely unoccupied in the first centuries, which allowed that from the 18th century onwards, palaces and large houses were built there occupying larger plots. In general, the oldest farmhouse is located in

4488-463: Was democracy restored in Spain . The 1978 constitution accepted the particular Basque laws ( fueros ) and in 1979 the Statute of Guernica was approved whereupon Biscay, Araba and Gipuzkoa formed the Autonomous Community of the Basque Country with its own parliament. During this recent democratic period, Basque Nationalist Party candidates have consistently won elections in Biscay. Recently

4556-514: Was formally part of the lordship of Ayala, in practice never did. While it belonged to Biscay, the Lord appointed the mayors, and later the town did so in an open council. During the Middle Ages , like the rest of the country, Artziniega lived marked by the Wars of the Bands between rival clans that fought for control of the territory. Artziniega was located in a strategic place of commercial interchange between

4624-599: Was populated since prehistoric times. In the Church Cave, in Retes de Tudela, prehistoric human remains have been found, and not far from there, in the Gordeliz neighborhood, a headstone with an inscription in Latin was found in the 18th century, possibly dedicated to a local marine deity, which attests to the Roman presence in these lands. Likewise, in the excavations carried out in

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