60-580: Abemama ( Apamama ) is an atoll, one of the Gilberts group in Kiribati , and is located 152 kilometres (94 miles) southeast of Tarawa and just north of the Equator. Abemama has an area of 27.37 square kilometres (10.57 square miles) and a population of 3,299 as of 2015. The islets surround a deep lagoon. The eastern part of the atoll of Abemama is linked together by causeways making automobile traffic possible between
120-540: A chief who lived on Butaritari (called Makin or Great Makin). This chief had all the powers and authority to make and impose decisions on the Islanders, a system very different from the Southern Gilbert Islands where power was wielded collectively by the unimwane or old men of the island. The northern Gilberts have a greater mean rainfall in comparison to the southern and central Gilberts allowing cultivation of
180-647: A serious problem; in 2010 only 34% of urban adults (over 15) were engaged in cash work; the remaining two-thirds are either out of the labour force, unemployed or engaged in subsistence activities. Young people are especially likely to be unemployed. Currently there is one government high school, King George V and Elaine Bernacchi School in Bikenibeu . There are also several private Christian high schools: Fiji Airways flies to Bonriki International Airport on South Tarawa from Nadi , on Mondays and Thursdays. Solomon Airlines flies to Honiara and Brisbane at least once
240-670: A subset of the northern Gilbert islands was known as Scarborough Islands and a subset of the southern Gilberts as the Kingsmill Group ; in some 19th century texts, this last name of Kingsmills was applied to the entire Gilberts group. Geologically, the Gilberts and the Ratak chain of the Marshall Islands to their north together form a continuous chain of seamounts . In official north–south order (grouped by former administrative district),
300-450: A wider crop range. Butaritari and Makin supply most of the bananas sold in Kiribati. The cultivation of taro or babai ( Cyrtosperma merkusii ) has been historically easier in the northern Gilberts due to a higher water table and regular rainfall. The Central Gilberts or nuka have traditionally included Maiana , Abemama , Kuria and Aranuka . However, the latter three are considered
360-466: A width varying from 50 metres (160 feet) to 2 kilometres (1.2 miles). The island has 3 main islets; the largest and main islet has 11 villages and is home to most of the population. Abatiku, an islet located at the north-western reef, and Biike just south of it, have much smaller populations. The island has a lagoon area and an abundance of lagoon fish, shellfish, and worms. There are also some seaweed farms. Causeways were constructed to link all villages on
420-468: Is a concern to the government and to Kiribati's aid partners. Anote Tong 's administration aims to ease the problem in the country's main urban centre by encouraging people to stay and to resettle in outer islands. It has invested in facilities such as the South Kiribati Hospital to spread institutions and services out around the islands and relieve South Tarawa from overcrowding. South Tarawa
480-520: Is now urbanised and is effectively one continuous settlement from the northeastern end of the island, Tanaea, to its southwestern end at Betio. Buota in North Tarawa is connected to the South Tarawa main road and is also growing rapidly. Tarawa island is central to Kiribati mythology and culture, but life on South Tarawa was little different to that on other islands before it was selected in 1895 as
540-416: Is officially recorded as 3,896 acres (1,577 ha) or 15.76 square km. Much of this land is not available for use, including the water reserve and runway, the causeways, and a large area of reclaimed land at Temwaiku, the eastern corner of the atoll, which is too swampy and low-lying. If these areas are excluded, the land area of South Tarawa is only just over 1,000 hectares (10 square km or 2,500 acres) and
600-577: Is one of the narrowest temperature ranges in the world. South Tarawa has very limited water resources for its rapidly growing population. During the frequent droughts, the only source of water is the shallow freshwater lens that permeates the coral rock of the atoll. The water lenses at Bonriki and Buota have been declared as water reserves, and have a combined sustainable yield of 1,300 m per day. Other previously declared water reserves have been relinquished for urbanisation or abandoned due to overpumping and pollution from human settlement. Water from
660-514: Is required to protect many of the sites eroded on South Tarawa including islets that once were protected with mangrove and iron-wood (tengea) trees. It is unclear how much of the erosion being experienced on South Tarawa is due to sea-level rise and how much is due to human activities (such as building inappropriate seawalls and mining sand and gravel from the beaches and foreshores). Coastal erosion will accelerate in future, due to climate change related sea level rise . The land area of South Tarawa
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#1732847524473720-691: Is the dividing line between the northern and southern Gilbert Islands. However, the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO) considers the entire Gilbert islands group to be in the South Pacific Ocean . Another way to group the Gilbert Islands is according to their former administrative districts , which were known as the Northern, Central, and Southern Gilberts. (Tarawa was once a separate district as well). At one time,
780-542: Is the economic hub of Kiribati, the location of the main port and airport and of most of the state-owned enterprises and private businesses. Copra produced on the outer islands is processed on Betio , producing copra oil for the international market and other products which are sold locally. There is a fish processing plant producing tuna for export. Imports far outweigh exports, and most households on South Tarawa rely on government employment and remittances from relatives working overseas. Unemployment and underemployment are
840-627: Is the tomb of tyrant-chief Tem Binoka , who was immortalized by Stevenson in his account of the 1889 voyage of the Equator published as In the South Seas Robert Louis Stevenson, Fanny Vandegrift Stevenson and Lloyd Osbourne returned to Abemama in July 1890 during their cruise on the trading steamer the Janet Nicoll . Japan occupied the Gilberts on 9 December 1941. On 21 November 1943,
900-699: The 2nd Marine Raider Battalion raided Makin from two submarines. The raid was intended by the Americans to confuse the Japanese about US intentions in the Pacific, a feint to draw Japanese attention away from the planned invasion route through the Solomons . It is instead believed to have alerted the Japanese to the strategic importance of the Gilbert Islands and led to their reinforcement and fortification. Marines captured during this operation were subsequently summarily executed by
960-798: The Ellice Islands were separated, and the Gilberts became the Gilbert Islands colony, which issued stamps under that name. In 1979, the Gilberts opted for independence, becoming the independent state of Kiribati . The Ellice Islands became the independent state of Tuvalu in 1978. Asian Development Bank. (2009b). Kiribati's political economy and capacity development [Online]. Available: http://www.adb.org/documents/reports/KIR-Political-Economy-Capacity-Development/KIR-Economic-Development.pdf (accessed 6 February 2012). Bedford, R., Macdonald, B., & Munro, D. (1980). Population estimates for Kiribati and Tuvalu, 1850–1900: Review and speculation. Journal of
1020-1165: The House of Assembly in Ambo , the Kiribati Teacher College and King George V and Elaine Bernacchi School , the Government High School, is in Bikenibeu , and the Tungaru central hospital in Nawerewere. The Roman Catholic Diocese is based in Teaoraereke, the Kiribati Uniting Church in Antebuka, the National Spiritual Assembly of the Bahá’ís of Kiribati in Bikenibeu , and the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Eita . At
1080-644: The American submarine USS Nautilus landed a company of 78 U.S. Marine Corps Amphibious Reconnaissance Scouts with Australian Army Lt George Hand formerly of the Ocean Island Defence Force acting as an interpreter to seize the island. They defeated the Japanese garrison with fire support from Nautilus . On the morning of 25 November, a native reported to the Marines that the remaining Japanese committed suicide. The US Navy built Naval Base Abemama on
1140-476: The Bonriki and Buota reserves is distributed by a reticulated network to South Tarawa households. However, the poor condition of the network and the limited water supply mean that water can only be supplied to each village for around 2 hours every two days. Most schools and community buildings have no water supply at all, and many households rely on polluted groundwater due to the shortage of treated water. Because of
1200-595: The Buen Viaje Islands. The British explorer Vice-Admiral John Byron passed through the islands in 1765 during his circumnavigation of the globe as captain of HMS Dolphin . In 1788 Captain Thomas Gilbert on Charlotte and Captain John Marshall on Scarborough crossed through Kuria , Aranuka , Tarawa , Abaiang , Butaritari, and Makin without attempting to land on the atolls. In 1820,
1260-669: The Gilbert Islands are Austronesian peoples , similar in many respects to the natives of the Marshalls or the Carolines . In Mahaffy's 1909 report to the British Government he described the missionaries or Protectorate staff then resident in the Gilbert Islands. At the outbreak of World War II, about 78% of the native population were said to be Christians. This group was divided mainly into two denominations: Congregationalists (43%) and Roman Catholics (35%), Catholics becoming quickly
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#17328475244731320-643: The Gilberts, they devoted considerable time to mapping and charting reefs and anchorages. In 1886, an Anglo-German agreement partitioned the "unclaimed" central Pacific, leaving Nauru in the German sphere of influence, while Ocean Island and the future GEIC wound up in the British sphere of influence. A British protectorate was first proclaimed over the Gilberts by Captain Edward Davis of HMS Royalist on 27 May 1892. British official Arthur Mahaffy visited
1380-523: The Gilberts. On 20 November 1943, the U.S. Army and U.S. 2nd Marine Division landed on Makin and Tarawa, initiating the battles of Makin and Tarawa , in which the Japanese were defeated. The Gilbert Islands were then used to support the invasion of the Marshall Islands in February 1944. The US built bases on Islands. The Gilbert and Ellice Islands became autonomous in 1971. From 1975 to 1978,
1440-450: The Islands in 1909. He noted that the "villages are kept in admirable order and the roads are scrupulously clean." A hospital was on each island, as well. The conduct of William Telfer Campbell , the second resident commissioner of the Gilberts, was criticised as to his legislative, judicial and administrative management (including allegations of forced labour exacted from islanders) and became
1500-691: The Japanese, in gross violation of the laws of war. The 19 Marines who died were left behind for the villagers to bury. In 1999, a Marine Honor guard was sent to recover the bodies and found them after a villager showed them where to dig. All were exhumed and were taken to the United States. Tarawa and Abemama were occupied in force by the Japanese in September 1942 and during the next year garrisons were built up on Betio (Tarawa Atoll), and Butaritari (Makin Atoll). Only nominal forces were placed on other islands in
1560-533: The Northern Gilbert Islands where groups of families or kainga would have their own separate leaders, and the Southern Gilberts (from Nonouti southwards) where the old men or unimwane collectively would meet in the maneaba to govern. Some European sources describe the chiefly family of Abemama as "the Gilbert Islands ruling family" but local sources recognise that the unimwane wield much of
1620-1088: The Pacific Islands. Journal of the Polynesian Society 1968; 77: 263–74. Davis, E.H.M., Captain RN. (1892). Proceedings of H.M.S. Royalist [Online]. Available: http://www.janeresture.com/davisdiaries/captaindavis.html and http://www.janeresture.com/nikunau/index.htm Archived 2006-10-16 at the Wayback Machine (accessed 6 February 2012). Di Piazza, A. (1999). Te Bakoa site. Two old earth ovens from Nikunau Island (Republic of Kiribati). Archaeology in Oceania, 34(1), 40–42. Di Piazza, A. (2001). Terre d'abondance ou terre de misère: Représentation de la sécheresse à Nikunau (République de Kiribati, Pacifique central) (Land of abundance or land of scarcity? Ideas about drought on Nikunau (Republic of Kiribati, Central Pacific)). L'Homme, 157, 35–58. Firth, Stewart (1973). "German Firms in
1680-668: The Polynesian Society, 89, 199–246. Bollard, A.E. (1981). "The Financial Adventures of J.C. Godeffroy and Son in the Pacific". Journal of Pacific History . 16 (1): 3–19. doi : 10.1080/00223348108572410 . Borovnik, M. (2006). Working overseas: Seafarers' remittances and their distribution in Kiribati. Asian Pacific Viewpoint, 47, 151–161. Burnett, G. (2005). Language games and schooling: Discourses of colonialism in Kiribati education. Asia Pacific Journal of Education, 25(1), 93–106. Cochrane, G. (1970). The Administration of Wagina Resettlement Scheme. Human Organization, 29(2), 123–132. Correspondent. (1913, 5 June). Modern buccaneers in
1740-461: The West Pacific. New Age, pp. 136–140 (Online). Available: http://dl.lib.brown.edu/pdfs/1140814207532014.pdf (accessed 6 February 2012). Couper, AD. The island trade: an analysis of the environment and operation of seaborne trade among three islands in the Pacific. Canberra: Australian National University, Department of Geography; 1967. Couper, AD. Protest movements and proto-cooperatives in
1800-542: The Western Pacific Islands, 1857–1914". Journal of Pacific History . 8 (1): 10–28. doi : 10.1080/00223347308572220 . South Tarawa South Tarawa ( Gilbertese : Tarawa Teinainano ) is the capital and hub of the Republic of Kiribati and home to more than half of Kiribati's population. The South Tarawa population centre consists of all the small islets from Betio in the west to Bonriki and Tanaea in
1860-626: The atoll of Tarawa , between the Tarawa Lagoon to the north, with a maximum depth of 25 metres (82 ft), and the Pacific Ocean to the south, with a depth of up to 4,000 metres (13,000 ft). The island has been built from sediments from the lagoon. The process of soil accumulation is driven by the dominant easterly trade winds and can be reversed during extended periods of westerly winds during El Niño–Southern Oscillations . These islets are now joined by causeways, forming one long islet on
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1920-473: The bungalow type. Mahaffy described the native clothing as being of "shocking shape" and "atrocious color", and that the style was changing into "kilt(s) of leaves or fine woven mats". In the early to mid 20th century the principal source of income for Gilbert islanders was from working on the production of phosphate from the deposits on Banaba (Ocean Island) , an island to the west of the Gilbert Islands. In addition, coconut palms were cultivated on some of
1980-447: The different islets. The outlying islands of Abatiku and Biike are situated on the southwestern side of the atoll. The village of Kariatebike serves as the government center for the atoll which includes an administration building, the police station and a hospital. Abemama was formerly known as Roger Simpson Island, Dundas Island, Hopper Island, or Simpson Island. Abemama has a land area of 27.39 square kilometres (11 square miles) with
2040-560: The following Christian senior high schools: King George V School , a secondary school for boys which opened in Bairiki in 1922, moved to Abemama, and then to Bikenibeu in 1953. Gilbert Islands The Gilbert Islands ( Gilbertese : Tungaru ; formerly Kingsmill or King's-Mill Islands ) are a chain of sixteen atolls and coral islands in the Pacific Ocean , about halfway between Papua New Guinea and Hawaii . They constitute
2100-590: The important food crops in Kiribati such as coconut, giant taro, pandanus and breadfruit grow well in Abemama. Captain Charles Bishop happened upon Abemama in 1799 and referred to it on his map as Roger Simpson Island, after one of his friends. The island was surveyed in 1841 by the US Exploring Expedition . In the mid to late 19th Century, Abemama was ruled by a single paramount chief. This contrasts with
2160-551: The island and departed in the fall of 1944. Abemama is close to the capital of South Tarawa . Abemama Atoll Airport is located on the north end of Abemama near the village of Tabiang. It has regular connections with the international airport in Tarawa twice weekly, on Wednesday and Sunday. There are three guest houses on Abemama; the Island Council guest house, Chevalier College guest house, and one private lodge. The island has
2220-710: The island extremely vulnerable to natural disasters. The effects of floods and associated soil salination are starting to threaten limited freshwater supplies. The climate in South Tarawa is a Tropical rainforest climate (Koppen: Af) which is warm and humid all year round and average rainfalls are relatively high. However, rainfall is very unpredictable, varying with the El Niño–Southern Oscillation , and South Tarawa can go for many months with almost no rain during La Niña cycles. The hottest and coldest temperatures ever recorded in South Tarawa are 35 °C (95 °F) and 21 °C (70 °F), respectively, which
2280-412: The islands and atolls are: Source for land areas: Kiribati 2005 Census Report The Northern Gilberts ( meang or mweang ) geographically and traditionally encompass Butaritari , Makin , Marakei , Abaiang (literally northland ) and Tarawa . They have unique tonal accents with differences particularly noted amongst Butaritari and Makin inhabitants. Traditionally, Butaritari and Makin were ruled by
2340-411: The islands figure slightly, and there are remarkable stories of adventures, bravery, political machinations, etc . Probably out of print, but second hand copies are available I think, I have two, and the illustrations are delightful. On the same day as the attack on Pearl Harbor , the Japanese invaded the Gilbert Islands, occupying 3 of them by 9 December 1941. On 17 August 1942, 221 U.S. Marines of
2400-731: The islands in the 19th century. The first recorded visit was by the Ann and Hope , which called at Nikunau in December 1799. Two ships of the United States Exploring Expedition (1838–1842), USS Peacock and Flying Fish , under the command of Captain William L. Hudson , visited many of the Gilbert Islands (then called the Kingsmill Islands or Kingsmill Group in English). While in
2460-671: The islands were named the Gilbert Islands or îles Gilbert (in French) by Adam Johann von Krusenstern , a Baltic German Admiral of the Russian Czar after the British Captain Thomas Gilbert , who crossed the archipelago in 1788. French captain Louis Duperrey was the first to map the whole Gilbert Islands archipelago. He commanded La Coquille on its circumnavigation of the earth (1822–1825). Many whaling ships called at
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2520-421: The islands. All labor was supervised by the British and every effort was made to see that the wages and living conditions were fair and adequate. Sanitary inspections by the British did much to improve the general living conditions on most of the islands. Arthur Mahaffy noted in 1909 that "extreme poverty is virtually unknown", and that most people on the island owned their own land. Residents paid taxes , with
2580-458: The level of education throughout the colony. The bulk of the education was provided by the missions, which maintained all the village schools and trained the native school teachers. With the availability of European-style medical care life improved. The Phoenix Islands Settlement Scheme sought to provide an outlet through the development of three uninhabited atolls in the Phoenix Islands and
2640-469: The local government level, South Tarawa has two administrative subdivisions, created by John Hilary Smith in 1972: Buota , which is part of North Tarawa and administered by the Eutan Tarawa Council (or ETC), is linked by road to South Tarawa and is experiencing many similar issues of rapid population growth, urbanisation and environmental degradation . South Tarawa is a string of islets on
2700-473: The main centres of Betio , Bairiki and Bikenibeu there are large areas of land on long-term lease to the government. Without access to family lands or government housing, many South Tarawa residents have no choice but to become squatters; disputes over land are common. South Tarawa and especially Betio have high rates of respiratory infections, diarrhoea, and dysentery, all of which have been linked to overcrowding. Unsustainable development in South Tarawa
2760-690: The main islands that have unique historical and cultural characteristics which distinguish the Central Gilberts from the north and south. Tembinok' , the last king of Abemama, Kuria and Aranuka, died in the early part of the 20th century. The Southern Gilberts include the atolls of Nonouti , South and North Tabiteuea , Beru , Nikunau , Onotoa , Tamana and the most southerly island of Arorae . The islands had been inhabited by Oceanians for several millennia (at least 2,000 years, probably 3,000). In 1606, Portuguese navigator Pedro Fernandes de Queirós sighted Butaritari and Makin , which he named
2820-413: The main islet. The island resembles an incomplete “G” letter, with two reef passages; one is located in between Abatiku and Tabiang village at the north-western end. The other is between Biike and Kenna, the latter being the southernmost end of the main islet. The island is surrounded with an exposed reef at the windward side and submerged reef at the leeward side where Biike and Abatiku are situated. Most of
2880-409: The main part of the country of Kiribati (the name of which is a rendering of "Gilberts" in the phonology of the indigenous Gilbertese ). The atolls and islands of the Gilbert Islands lie in an approximate north-to-south line. The northernmost island in the group, Makin , it is approximately 420 nautical miles (780 km) from southernmost, Arorae , as the crow flies. Geographically, the equator
2940-572: The majority at the end of the Colony. The rest of the population were then largely semi-pagan agnostics; they did not adhere to the Christian faith, nor did they retain much of their beliefs in their own ancient gods. Native diet during this time consisted mainly of fish, coconuts, pandanus fruit, babai ( swamp taro ), chicken, and some pork. Housing for Europeans employed in the island was simple: constructed of European and native materials and generally of
3000-586: The majority of taxes going back into the community, and a small portion going to the Protectorate. Judged to be about 84% literate, the Gilbertese responded readily to the colony's educational efforts. All education in the islands came under the supervision of the Colonial Education Department whose aims were to educate native boys for employment in government and commercial work, and to standardize
3060-718: The north-east, connected by the South Tarawa main road, with a population of 63,439 as of 2020 . South Tarawa is home to most of the government, commercial and education facilities in Kiribati including the Port and the High Court at Betio, the State House, Government Ministries and foreign embassies and High Commissions in Bairiki , the University of the South Pacific campus in Teaoraereke ,
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#17328475244733120-446: The population density of 49 people per hectare or 4,905 per square km is almost equal to the density of London (5,100 people per km ) and twice the density of Sydney or Auckland. Multi-story buildings are very uncommon on South Tarawa. The high population is accommodated through large household sizes, with an average of 7.3 people per household, on small land plots. Most land is owned by the original families or kain Tarawa , although in
3180-501: The power even on Abemama, and governing the whole of the Gilbert Islands as a single unit is a logistical challenge even in modern times. Abemama is known as the island where the declaration of a British Protectorate was first proclaimed by Captain Edward Davis of HMS Royalist (1883) on 27 May 1892. Abemama Post Office opened around 1910. Robert Louis Stevenson , Fanny Vandegrift Stevenson and her son Lloyd Osbourne spent 2 months on Abemama in 1889. Near Tabontebike
3240-511: The reef along the southern side of the Tarawa Lagoon. Most of South Tarawa is less than 3 metres (9.8 feet) above sea level with an average width of only 450 metres (1,480 feet). At the time of the 1978 Census, South Tarawa had a population of 17,921 with most residents living in the main population centres of Betio , Bairiki and Bikenibeu . Since Kiribati became independent in 1979, the population of South Tarawa has more than tripled, and now stands at 63,439 people (2020). All of South Tarawa
3300-436: The seat of colonial government for the Protectorate of the Gilbert and Ellice Islands . From 1906 to 1942, Ocean Island was the headquarters of the colony, then Funafuti because of the Japanese occupation of the Gilbert Islands until 1946, when it returned to Tarawa. Betio was the location of the Battle of Tarawa . The highest point on South Tarawa is only a very few meters above sea level ( Eita , 3 metres), making
3360-438: The shortage of fresh water, sanitation systems must use saltwater for flushing. The sanitation network on South Tarawa is performing very poorly, and a major project is underway to rehabilitate the system and improve sanitation and public hygiene. The Ministry of Environment, Lands and Agricultural Development (MELAD) is involved in the replanting of mangroves in selected sites to help against coastal erosion; however, much more
3420-403: The subject of the 1909 report by Arthur Mahaffy. In 1913 an anonymous correspondent to The New Age journal described the mis-administration of Telfer Campbell and challenged the impartiality of Arthur Mahaffy as he was a former colonial official in the Gilberts. In 1915, starting from 1916, the Gilbert and Ellice Islands were proclaimed a colony of the British Empire . The natives of
3480-479: The two genders. Their ancestors, they said, had been white skinned and red haired and came from elsewhere, perhaps the West (possibly coinciding with the outward spread of Homo sapiens from Africa and elsewhere). As might be expected, they gave power to the natural forces and gave them names and godly characteristics (sun, moon, etc .) but believed in one spirit god, a bit similar to the god of Genesis, in that he/she seemed to have power over dark and light and so on, and
3540-510: Was pretty much invisible. They had a strong belief in behaving properly to their ancestors, and especially their parents, and had well-developed community rules for courtesy to others. Read A Pattern of Islands , by Arthur Grimble , who worked in these islands and on Banaba , for the Colonial Administration, from just before the First World War to the mid thirties, or thereabouts. It is a remarkable, informative, funny and warm-hearted account of these people and their religion. Other religions on
3600-434: Was the last attempt at human colonization within the British Empire. Hiram Bingham II (1831–1908) was the first to translate the Bible into Gilbertese, and also wrote hymns for the Gilbertese language. Joanna Gordon-Clark writes of their religious belief: The Gilbert (and Ellice) Islanders had a strong set of beliefs of their own, pre the Christian missionaries; they had a strong foundation myth , involving trees and
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