64-586: Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood ( née Swire ; 8 April 1941 – 29 December 2022) was an English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream. In 2022, Sky Arts ranked her the 4th most influential artist in Britain of the last 50 years. Westwood came to public notice when she made clothes for the boutique that she and Malcolm McLaren ran on King's Road , which became known as Sex . Their ability to synchronise clothing and music shaped
128-623: A "mythology of restriction and encumbrance in woman's dress", and the miniskirt, representing an "equally dubious mythology of liberation". Westwood continued her research in fashion history by studying garments found in museum collections, which are evident through her incorporations of neck ruffs, corsets, bustles, breeches, and paniers in her various collections. Works from the artists Jean-Antione Watteau , Anthony van Dyck , and François Boucher have been used as inspiration for several pieces of Westwood's garments including scarves, corsets, and leggings. For Autumn-Winter 1987/88, Westwood presented
192-675: A combination of safety pins, chicken bones, and glitter glue. Two years later, in 1974, Westwood and McLaren's boutique was re-modelled, and reopened as Sex . Pieces sold in Sex were intentionally abrasive and challenging, with designs grounded in fetish and sado-masochism, seeking to provoke a comfortable middle class and inspire young punks into political action by challenging the status quo. Garments retailed at Sex included skirts and dresses made from rubber as well as t-shirts with pornographic material printed on them. The clothes often had large intentional rips in them and sizeable zippers incorporated into
256-520: A disillusioned youth, who developed a unique style of dress and musical expression which was instantly identifiable through its aesthetic and sound. Westwood's boutique, originally managed with McLaren, was a meeting place for early members of the London punk scene. The boutique regularly changed names and interior design through the 1970s to fit with collections and design inspirations. It remains in its original location at 430 Kings Road, Chelsea, London (under
320-558: A friend from art school, Patrick Casey, opened a stall in the back of what was then the Paradise Garage boutique at 430 King's Road in London's Chelsea district. On sale were items collected by McLaren over the previous year, including rock & roll records, magazines, clothing and memorabilia from the 1950s. Trevor Myles (who ran Paradise Garage), relinquished the entire premises to McLaren and Casey in November 1971. They renamed
384-530: A jewellery and silversmith course at the University of Westminster , then known as the Harrow Art School, but left after one term, saying: "I didn't know how a working-class girl like me could possibly make a living in the art world". After taking a job in a factory and studying at a teacher-training college, she became a primary-school teacher. During this period, she created her own jewellery, which she sold at
448-605: A medium for radical change; with the dissolution of the Sex Pistols, Westwood's inspiration for her eponymous line shifted instead to the 18th century. She was particularly influenced by Pirates and the Incroyables and merveilleuses a radical movement amongst nobles who had survived the French Revolution which referenced the guillotine to which many had lost family members. Westwood's designs were independent and represented
512-410: A sequel. A version of the dress was subsequently made available for purchase on Net-a-porter , and sold out in a matter of hours. It was available as a knee-length version. In April 1989, Westwood appeared on the cover of Tatler dressed as Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher . The suit that Westwood wore had been ordered for Thatcher but not yet delivered. The cover, which bore the caption "This woman
576-459: A soft corrosion") by the beat author Alexander Trocchi . Also featured were T-shirts with the slogan 'Prick Up Your Ears', a reference to the biography of influential proto-punk subversive Joe Orton , and text culled from the biography of Orton stating how cheap clothes suited him. Among the designs were clear plastic-pocketed jeans, zippered tops and the Anarchy shirt which used dead stock from
640-661: A stall on Portobello Road . In 1962, she met Derek Westwood, an apprentice at the Hoover factory, in Harrow. They married on 21 July 1962; Westwood made her own wedding dress. In 1963, she gave birth to a son, Benjamin. Westwood's marriage to Derek ended after she met Malcolm McLaren . Westwood and McLaren moved to Thurleigh Court in Balham , where their son Joseph Corré was born in 1967. Westwood continued to teach until 1971 and also created clothes which McLaren designed. McLaren became manager of
704-472: A statement of her own values. She collaborated on occasion with Gary Ness, who assisted Westwood with inspirations and titles for her collections. McLaren and Westwood's first fashion collection to be shown to the media and potential international buyers was Pirate , combining 18th and 19th century dress, British history and textiles with African prints. This was the first time in which Westwood explored her inspiration of historic sources in current day couture,
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#1732885030459768-595: A way of tackling environmental and sustainability issues. In March 2015, the company announced that it would open a three-story outpost in midtown Manhattan in New York City. This was followed by a new 3,200-square-foot (300 m) shop in a building also housing the company's offices and showrooms in Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, opening in early 2016. As of December 2015, Vivienne Westwood Ltd operated 12 retail stores in
832-469: A writer at Vogue , she is invited by her editor to model wedding dresses, including a design made by Westwood. The dress is subsequently sent to Carrie as a gift, with a handwritten note from Westwood herself, and Carrie decides to use the Westwood gown. The wedding dress has also been described as one of the movie's most iconic features, leading Westwood to approach the producers about being involved in making
896-422: A year compared to the average designer's two. Eluxe accused Westwood of using unpaid interns in her fashion house and making them work over 40 hours per week and wrote that some interns complained about their treatment by the fashion house. In 1993, Westwood designed many of the colorful suits and outfits Duran Duran wore during their tour for The Wedding Album, as well as those that appeared in
960-503: Is the name given to a person upon birth. The term may be applied to the surname , the given name , or the entire name. Where births are required to be officially registered, the entire name entered onto a birth certificate or birth register may by that fact alone become the person's legal name . The assumption in the Western world is often that the name from birth (or perhaps from baptism or brit milah ) will persist to adulthood in
1024-461: Is the masculine form. The term née , having feminine grammatical gender , can be used to denote a woman's surname at birth that has been replaced or changed. In most English-speaking cultures, it is specifically applied to a woman's maiden name after her surname has changed due to marriage. The term né can be used to denote a man's surname at birth that has subsequently been replaced or changed. The diacritic mark (the acute accent ) over
1088-542: The Chopard lunch in Cannes . In 2011, Princess Eugenie wore three Westwood designs for the pre-wedding dinner, the wedding ceremony and the after-wedding party at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton . Pharrell Williams wore a Westwood Buffalo hat that was originally in Westwood's 1982–83 collection to the 2014 56th Annual Grammy Awards . The hat was so popular that it inspired its own Twitter account. Williams
1152-667: The Labour Party to the Conservatives , due to concerns about civil liberties and human rights. On Easter Sunday 2008, she campaigned in person at the biggest Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament demonstration in ten years, at the Atomic Weapons Establishment , Aldermaston , Berkshire. The next year, she cut off her hair to highlight the dangers of climate change . She also appeared in a PETA ad campaign to promote World Water Day and vegetarianism, drawing attention to
1216-508: The Pirate runway had featured both rap and an array of ethnic music. Subsequently, their partnership, which was underlined by the fact that both their names appeared on all labelling, produced collections in Paris and London with the thematic titles Savages (shown late 1981), Buffalo/Nostalgia Of Mud (shown spring 1982), Punkature (shown late 1982), Witches (shown early 1983) and Worlds End 1984 (later renamed Hypnos , shown late 1983). After
1280-470: The Virgin Atlantic crew. The uniform for the female crew consisted of a red suit, which accentuated the women's curves and hips, and had strategically placed darts around the bust area. The men's uniform consisted of a grey and burgundy three-piece suit with details on the lapels and pockets. Westwood and Branson were both passionate about using sustainable materials throughout their designs to reduce
1344-456: The e is considered significant to its spelling, and ultimately its meaning, but is sometimes omitted. According to Oxford University 's Dictionary of Modern English Usage , the terms are typically placed after the current surname (e.g., " Margaret Thatcher , née Roberts" or " Bill Clinton , né Blythe"). Since they are terms adopted into English (from French), they do not have to be italicized , but they often are. In Polish tradition ,
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#17328850304591408-639: The ' Harris Tweed' collection which launched her long-standing relationship with the Scottish cloth, Harris tweed , and the Harris Tweed Authority . The collection is often credited as being instrumental in reviving its use as a fashion fabric, thereby boosting the local industry. In the collection, she had also adopted the use of the Orb logo, an orb resembling the Sovereign's Orb with a satellite ring around it like
1472-453: The 1960s manufacturer Wemblex. These were bleached and dyed shirts and adorned with silk Karl Marx patches and anarchist slogans. In December 1976, 430 King's Road was renamed Seditionaries , trading under that title until September 1980. As Seditionaries: Clothes for Heroes , the boutique adopted brutalist interior and exterior styling: large murals depicting imagery of bomb damage, harshly bright lighting, and cavities perforating
1536-537: The 1970s UK punk scene, which included McLaren's band, the Sex Pistols . She viewed punk as a way of "seeing if one could put a spoke in the system". Westwood opened four shops in London and eventually expanded throughout Britain and the world, selling a varied range of merchandise, some of which promoted her political causes such as the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament , climate change and civil rights groups. Westwood
1600-586: The 1970s to connect with design inspirations, the boutique finally being renamed Worlds End in 1979, a name which (following a short period of closure) the shop retains to this day. Prior to Westwood and McLaren taking over tenancy in 1971, 430 Kings Road had been the site of several fashion boutiques, including The 430 Boutique , operated by Carol Derry and Bill Fuller in the early 1960s, Hung On You run by Jane Ormsby Gore and Michael Rainey from 1967 to 1969, Mr Freedom , from 1969 to 1970, and Paradise Garage from 1970 to 1971. In October 1971, Malcolm McLaren and
1664-595: The Green Party's policy. In 2013, sustainable luxury fashion publication Eluxe Magazine accused Westwood of using the green movement as a marketing tool because some of Westwood's fashion and accessories lines are made in the People's Republic of China . These were found to include PVC , polyester , rayon and viscose , all derived from harmful chemicals. Eluxe wrote that, despite Westwood's statements that consumers should 'buy less', her company produces nine collections
1728-602: The Greens. "I wasn't pure enough for them", she wrote in her online diary. Subsequently, Westwood switched her support to campaigning on behalf of Nigel Askew, the 'We are the Reality Party' candidate opposing UKIP leader Nigel Farage in the Kent constituency of Thanet South . Askew polled 126 votes in the election. In June 2017, Westwood endorsed Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn for the 2017 general election . She said, "I'm excited about
1792-584: The Harris Tweed® industry, subsequently both brands have very successfully collaborated to their mutual benefit. We hope and expect that collaboration will continue for many years to come. In 2007, Westwood was approached by the Chair of King's College London , Patricia Rawlings , to design an academic gown for the college after it had successfully petitioned the Privy Council for the right to award degrees. In 2008,
1856-523: The King's Road. Krivine sold the company in 1984. In late 1980, the shop at 430 King's Road re-opened under the name World's End . The building was designed by McLaren and Westwood and realised by Roger Burton , aided by Jeremy Blackburn and Tony Devers, to resemble a mixture of the Olde Curiosity Shoppe and an 18th-century galleon. The façade was installed with a large clock which spun backwards with
1920-456: The Labour Party manifesto because it's all about the fair distribution of wealth." She added "Jeremy clearly wants to go green and creating a fair distribution of wealth is the place to start, from there we can build a green economy which will secure our future." In November 2019, along with other public figures, Westwood signed a letter supporting Corbyn that described him as "a beacon of hope in
1984-518: The Punk Era and thereafter were informed by historicism; the V&;A describing Westwood as "a meticulous researcher". Westwood began challenging gender norms and promoting experimentation in her designs, which at the outset were created in collaboration with McLaren. Initially, Westwood created garments referencing the dress of the 1950s Teddy Boys, which were worn by McLaren. Upon opening Let It Rock in 1971,
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2048-817: The UK, including an outlet store in Bicester Village . There were 63 Westwood shops worldwide including nine in China, nine in Hong Kong, 18 in South Korea, six in Taiwan, two in Thailand, and two in the United States. In August 2011, Westwood's company Vivienne Westwood Ltd agreed to pay £350,000 in tax plus interest of £144,112, due in 2009, to HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) for underestimating
2112-512: The Westwood-designed academic dresses for King's College were unveiled. On the gowns, Westwood commented: "Through my reworking of the traditional robe I tried to link the past, the present and the future. We are what we know." In July 2011, Westwood's collections were presented at The Brandery fashion show in Barcelona . Westwood worked closely with Richard Branson to design uniforms for
2176-432: The boutique’s name paying homage to James Dean , the signage featured a black background with white lettering spelling out the shop’s new name around a large skull and crossbones , a new era of youth subculture was echoed. In the spring of 1974 the shop underwent another refurbishment and was rebranded with the name SEX . The façade included a 4-foot (1.2 m) sign of pink foam rubber letters spelling "SEX", and
2240-403: The ceiling created by McLaren, surrounded Westwood 's innovative garments now considered punk signatures. Designs were licensed by Westwood to the operators of the boutique at 153 King's Road, Boy (formerly Acme Attractions ) who issued them, some with alterations, over the next eight years. Boy London was founded by Stephane Raynor and Israel-based businessman John Krivine in 1976 on
2304-501: The death of James Dean. Though design references for garments retailed under Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die focussed on the rocker aesthetic of the 1960s, the boutique still sold Teddy Boy inspired garments under the Let It Rock label. The new politically leaning design inspirations for Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die were conveyed through Westwood's sleeveless T-shirts, bearing various statements such as ‘PERV’ and ‘ROCK’, created using
2368-408: The first incarnation of Westwood and McLaren's boutique, early creations for the shop incorporated such influences reminiscent of the youth subculture fashions of the 1950s . Inspired by the rebellious nature of the 1950s youth, Let It Rock referenced the clothing, music, and décor of the immediate postwar era. In 1972, Let It Rock was refashioned into Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die , in homage to
2432-501: The four original members of Sex Pistols (the bass-player Glen Matlock was an employee as a sales assistant on Saturdays). The group's name was provided by McLaren in partial promotion of the boutique. In August 1975, nineteen-year-old John Lydon was persuaded to audition for the group by singing along to Alice Cooper 's " I'm Eighteen " on the jukebox. Other notable patrons included occasional assistant Chrissie Hynde , Adam Ant , Marco Pirroni , Siouxsie Sioux , Steven Severin and
2496-622: The franchise deal before the agreed term. The subsequent transition of some of the Hervia stores to Westwood, along with cost-savings, was credited for a jump in Vivienne Westwood Ltd's pre-tax profits by nearly a factor of 10, to £5 million from £527,683 the previous year. The next year, the company announced: "Over the last year margins have been under pressure due to the nature of wider retail conditions." Shortly after, Westwood announced she would cease further expansion of her business as
2560-634: The garments. Sex became a meeting point at the centre of the punk scene, and transformed into Seditionaries in 1976. Clothing retailed at Seditionaries (Seditionaries: Clothes for Heroes) retained the familiar references of Sex, including historicism, the challenging of gender norms, and fetish. However, Seditionaries pieces were made from different cloths and fibres. The development of Westwood signatures - bondage trousers covered with straps to restrict, ‘unravelling’ loose-knit jumpers made of mohair, and long-sleeved tops fashioned from soft muslins, which featured graphic screen printed designs and fastenings to
2624-424: The impact on the environment and so used recycled polyester . In March 2012, Vivienne Westwood Group reached agreement to end a long-standing UK franchise relationship with Manchester -based Hervia, which operated seven stores for the fashion chain. The deal brought to a conclusion a legal dispute, which included Hervia issuing High Court proceedings for alleged breach of contract , after Westwood sought to end
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2688-475: The interior of the boutique was covered with graffiti from the SCUM Manifesto and chickenwire. Rubber curtains covered the walls and red carpeting was installed. SEX sold fetish and bondage wear supplied by existing specialist labels such as Atomage, She-And-Me and London Leatherman as well as designs by McLaren and Westwood . Jordan ( Pamela Rooke ) was a sales assistant. Among customers at SEX were
2752-604: The mainstays of stock retailed under the label. Let It Rock was soon covered in the London Evening Standard . In 1973 the outlet interior was changed and the shop was given a new name, Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die , to reflect a new range of clothing from Britain's early 1960s "rocker" fashions. Features of garments retailed under Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die included chains, leather, and sleeveless t-shirts adorned with provocative statements, reflecting Westwood's politically-informed design inspirations. With
2816-462: The meat industry's water consumption. In 2014, Westwood bought a controlling interest in the equity crowdfunding platform Trillion Fund , which was dissolved in 2019. In January 2015, Westwood stated her support of the Green Party : "I am investing in the Green Party because I believe it is in the best interests of our country and our economy". It was reported that she had donated £300,000 to fund
2880-433: The name Worlds End since 1980, following a short period of closure in the 1980s) to this day. McLaren and Westwood were keen entrepreneurs, and their designs sold in their boutique – named Let It Rock , Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die , Sex , and subsequently Seditionares – helped to define and market the punk look at the exact moment that it exploded in popularity on the streets of London. Westwood's designs during
2944-405: The normal course of affairs—either throughout life or until marriage. Some reasons for changes of a person's name include middle names , diminutive forms, changes relating to parental status (due to one's parents' divorce or adoption by different parents), and gender transition . The French and English-adopted née is the feminine past participle of naître , which means "to be born". Né
3008-535: The one around Saturn. This sparked heavy controversy as it was very similar to Orb Mark of the Harris Tweed Authority (at the time named The Harris Tweed Association ). Following her death, The Harris Tweed Authority released the following statement: In the late 1980’s Vivienne Westwood commenced use of a logo which, we consider, acknowledged her connections with and affection for our cherished cloth. Whilst that may not have been well received by everyone in
3072-417: The outside, showing the construction of the piece; these attitudes are reflected in the music we make. It's OK to not be perfect, to show the workings of your life and your mind in your songs and your clothes." Westwood was disenchanted with the direction that adoptees had taken punk in, many of them uninterested in punk's political values, viewing the style of the movement as a marketing opportunity instead of
3136-522: The partnership with McLaren was dissolved, Westwood showed one more collection under the Worlds End label: Clint Eastwood (late 1984–early 1985). She dubbed the period 1981–85 "New Romantic" (during which time she created the famous look of the band Adam and the Ants ) and 1988–91 as "The Pagan Years" during which "Vivienne's heroes changed from punks and ragamuffins to Tatler girls wearing clothes that parodied
3200-494: The party's election campaign. In February 2015, Westwood was announced as the special guest on the Greens' We Are The Revolution campaigning tour of English universities in such cities as Liverpool, Norwich, Brighton and Sheffield. On the eve of the tour, Westwood was excluded from appearing by the youth wing of the Green Party due to her avoidance of UK corporate tax, which contravened party policy on usage of off-shore tax havens. She later condemned this as "a wasted opportunity" for
3264-452: The punk band the Sex Pistols , and subsequently the two garnered attention as the band wore Westwood's and McLaren's designs. Westwood was one of the architects of the punk fashion phenomenon of the 1970s, saying "I was messianic about punk, seeing if one could put a spoke in the system in some way". Westwood's emergence as a designer who made garments that reflected the economic, social, and political contexts of 1970s Britain coincided with
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#17328850304593328-613: The rest of the Bromley Contingent . The store's designs confronted social and sexual taboos, and included T-shirts bearing images of the Cambridge Rapist's face hood, semi-naked cowboys from a 1969 illustration by the US artist Jim French , trompe-l'œil bare breasts by Rhode Island School of Design students Janusz and Laura Gottwald in the late 1960s, and pornographic texts from the book School for Wives ("I groaned with pain...in
3392-550: The right to use Westwood's name on her own fashion label. Latimo, which Westwood controlled as the majority shareholder in her companies, was set up in 2002. Such arrangements, while legal, were against the Green Party policy to eliminate use of tax havens such as Luxembourg. In March 2015, Westwood said, "It is important to me that my business affairs are in line with my personal values. I am subject to UK tax on all of my income". Later in 2015, she said that she had restructured her corporate tax arrangements to try to align them with
3456-504: The shop Let It Rock with stock including second-hand and new Teddy Boy clothes designed by McLaren's school teacher girlfriend Vivienne Westwood . The shop-front corrugated iron frontage was painted black with the name pasted in pink lettering. The interior was given period detail, such as "Odeon" wallpaper and Festival of Britain trinkets, furnished in the style of a 1950s living room. Bespoke tailored drape jackets, skin-tight trousers and thick-soled " brothel creepers " shoes were
3520-471: The sleeves to give the effect of a straight-jacket – during this period quickly became archetypal punk staples. Westwood also inspired the style of punk icons, such as Viv Albertine , who wrote in her memoir, "Vivienne and Malcolm use clothes to shock, irritate and provoke a reaction but also to inspire change. Mohair jumpers, knitted on big needles, so loosely that you can see all the way through them, T-shirts slashed and written on by hand, seams and labels on
3584-560: The struggle against emergent far-right nationalism, xenophobia and racism in much of the democratic world" and endorsed him in the 2019 UK general election . In a 2007 interview, Westwood spoke out against what she perceived as the "drug of consumerism ". She said: "I don't feel comfortable defending my clothes. But if you've got the money to afford them, then buy something from me. Just don't buy too much" in response to claims that anti-consumerism and fashion contradict each other. Birth name#Maiden and married names A birth name
3648-553: The term z domu (literally meaning "of the house", de domo in Latin ) may be used, with rare exceptions, meaning the same as née . Sex (boutique) Sex (stylised SEX ) was a boutique run by Vivienne Westwood and her then-partner Malcolm McLaren at 430 King's Road, London between 1974 and 1976. It specialised in clothing that defined the look of the punk movement . Westwood and McLaren’s boutique underwent several name and correlating interior decor changes through
3712-409: The three videos for that album: "Ordinary World", "Come Undone" and "Too Much Information". Dita Von Teese wore a purple Westwood gown for her formal wedding ceremony when she married Marilyn Manson in 2005. Marion Cotillard wore a Westwood red satin strapless dress at the London premiere of her film Public Enemies in 2009. In 2013, she wore a Westwood Couture pink and ivory striped dress at
3776-477: The upper class". From 1985 to 1987, Westwood took inspiration from the ballet Petrushka to design the mini-crini, an abbreviated version of the Victorian crinoline . Its mini-length , bouffant silhouette inspired the puffball skirts widely presented by more established designers such as Christian Lacroix . The mini-crini was described in 1989 as a combination of two conflicting ideals - the crinoline, representing
3840-434: The value of her brand. Her UK business had sold the rights to her trademarks to Luxembourg -based Latimo, which she controlled, for £840,000 in 2002. After examining the deal, HMRC argued that the brand had been undervalued. The £2 million valuation triggered additional taxes. Accounts for Vivienne Westwood Ltd showed that since 2011, the company had continued to pay £2 million a year to offshore company Latimo for
3904-572: Was born in Hollingworth , Cheshire, on 8 April 1941. She grew up in nearby Tintwistle , and was the daughter of Gordon Swire and Dora Swire (née Ball), who had married two years previously, two weeks after the outbreak of the Second World War . At the time of Vivienne's birth, her father was employed as a storekeeper in an aircraft factory; he had previously worked as a greengrocer. In 1958, her family moved to Harrow , Greater London. Westwood took
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#17328850304593968-474: Was first seen wearing a similar Westwood Buffalo hat in 2009. Dua Lipa wore custom Westwood on the red carpet of the 2021 Brit Awards . In Final Fantasy XV , Lunafreya Nox Fleuret's wedding dress was designed by Westwood. Westwood's designs were featured in the 2008 film adaptation of the television series Sex and the City . In the film, Carrie Bradshaw becomes engaged to long-term lover Mr. Big . Being
4032-621: Was once a punk", was included in The Guardian list of the best ever UK magazine covers. In September 2005, Westwood joined forces with the British civil rights group Liberty and launched exclusive limited design T-shirts and baby wear bearing the slogan I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don't arrest me . She said she was supporting the campaign and defending habeas corpus . "When I was a schoolgirl, my history teacher, Mr. Scott, began to take classes in civic affairs. The first thing he explained to us
4096-572: Was the fundamental rule of law embodied in habeas corpus . He spoke with pride of civilisation and democracy. The hatred of arbitrary arrest by the lettres de cachet of the French monarchy caused the storming of the Bastille . We can only take democracy for granted if we insist on our liberty", she said. The sale of the £50 T-shirts raised funds for the organisation. Westwood stated on television in 2007 that she had transferred her long-standing support for
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