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53-509: Tsarap River , also known as Tsarap Chu , forms the eastern part of the Zanskar valley , in the Ladakh union territory of India . The 182 km (113 mi) long river is used for irrigation in riparian villages, and for adventure sports by tourists. The Tsarap River has its source in the glaciers near Pankpo La Pass at the border of Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh . After rising from its source,

106-593: A district in Ladakh by 2028. Zanskar ( ཟངས་དཀར་ zangs dkar ) appears as “Zangskar” mostly in academic studies in social sciences ( anthropology , gender studies ), reflecting the Ladakhi pronunciation, although the Zanskari pronunciation is Zãhar. Older geographical accounts and maps may use the alternate spelling "Zaskar". An etymological study (Snellgrove and Skorupsky, 1980) of the name reveals that its origin might refer to

159-454: A great distance from the villages, but have been abandoned because running water is now available nearer to the settlements. Zanskari houses, though otherwise well built, are not adapted to the recently increasing rainfall, as their roofs leak, catching their surprised inhabitants unprepared. Most of the precipitation occurs as snowfall during the harsh and extremely long winter period. These winter snowfalls are of vital importance, since they feed

212-590: Is a Buddhist monastery located in the remote Lungnak Valley in south-eastern Zanskar , in the Himalayan region of Ladakh , in Northern India . It is 52 km southeast of Padum on Nimmu–Padum–Darcha road (NPD). Solar power was installed at the Phugtal monastery in 2016. Until 2023 before NPD road was built, it was one of the few Buddhist monasteries in Ladakh that could still be reached only by foot. Supplies to

265-564: Is a lunisolar calendar , hence the dates for these festivals differ each year as compared to the Gregorian calendar . Phuktal Gompa has set up the Phuktal Monastic School that caters to the students of the local Lungnak Valley of Zanskar. The school was set up in 1993, at the behest of Geshe Lharampa Nagri Choszed. Complete education is provided, which involves a mix of traditional learning and modern curriculum. No fees are charged from

318-499: Is a high altitude semi-desert lying on the northern flank of the Himalayan Range. This mountain range acts as a barrier protecting Ladakh and Zanskar from most of the monsoon , resulting in a pleasantly warm and dry climate in the summer. Rain and snowfall during this period are scarce, although recent decades have shown a trend towards increasing precipitation. Several water-driven mills were built during ancient periods of drought at

371-501: Is scarce, and restricted to alluvial fans and terraces, cultivated fields being rarely found above an altitude of 4,000 metres. The Zanskaris have developed a system of intensive arable agriculture and complex irrigation to produce enough food in these conditions. The scarcity of cultivable land has also resulted in a tendency towards a stable, zero-growth population. An efficient birth-control system in Zanskar has historically been achieved by

424-633: Is suspected that an Indo-European population known as the Mon might then have lived in this region, before mixing with or being replaced by the next settlers, the Dards . Early Buddhism coming from Kashmir spread its influence in Zanskar, possibly as early as 200 BC. The earliest monuments date from the Kushan period. After this eastward propagation of Buddhism, Zanskar and large parts of the Western Himalaya were overrun in

477-596: Is used in order to distinguish them from later Dard settlers. A small fraction are Sunni Muslims whose ancestors settled in Padum and its environs in the 19th century. An overwhelming majority of Zanskar is Buddhist. Almost every village has a local monastery, often containing ancient wall-paintings and images. There are two main branches of Tibetan Buddhism here — the Drugpa , including Sani Monastery , Dzongkhul , Stagrimo and Bardan Monastery - all loosely affiliated with Stakna in

530-631: The Aksai Chin to China. Ladakh and Zanskar, despite a tumultuous history of internal wars and external aggressions, have never lost their cultural and religious heritage since the 8th century. Thanks to its inclusion in the Indian Union , this is also one of the rare regions in the Himalaya where traditional Tibetan culture, society, and buildings survived the Chinese Cultural Revolution . In

583-512: The Alchi Hydroelectric Power Project downriver reported a drop in water level. The dam created by the debris was 60 metres (200 ft) high, 90 metres (300 ft) wide and 600 metres (2,000 ft) long and the artificial lake was at 80% of the height of the debris. As of 1 February 2015, the artificial lake formed behind the dam was nearly 14 kilometres (8.7 mi) long and covered about 110 hectares of land. The barrier

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636-623: The Indus valley . The Gelugpa control Rangdum Monastery , Karsha , Stongde and Phugtal Monastery , which all pay allegiance to the Ngari Rinpoche, who has his main seat at Likir Monastery in Ladakh. The present emanation of the Ngari Rinpoche is the younger brother of the Dalai Lama. People living in Zanskar speak Zanskari language of the Ladakhi-Balti language group. It is written using

689-558: The Ministry of Home Affairs announced that Zanskar will become a district in Ladakh by 2028. Zanskar covers an area of some 7,000 square kilometres (2,700 sq mi), generally at an elevation between 3,600 and 4,000 m (11,800 and 13,100 ft). It consists of the country lying along the two main branches of the Zanskar River . The first, the Doda River , has its source near

742-580: The Penzi La 4,400 metres (14,400 ft) mountain-pass, and then flows south-eastwards along the main valley leading towards Padum, the capital of Zanskar. The second branch is formed by two main tributaries known as Kargyag river (also known as Kurgiakh river), with its source near the Shinku La 5,091 metres (16,703 ft), and Tsarap River , with its source near the Baralacha-La. These two rivers unite below

795-617: The Stod River at a confluence near Padum , the capital of Zanskar . Together, these two rivers form the Zanskar River , a tributary of the Indus River . The Tsarap River contributes to the minimal agricultural production of the Zanskar valley, mainly to the lower areas of Chia, by providing irrigation to the fields of barley , wheat, buckwheat and peas. Accessible in the summer, the Pensi La mountain pass which connects Zanskar with rest of

848-469: The Tibetan script . Monks who have studied outside of Zanskar may know Standard Tibetan. Educated people of Zanskar know English as it is a compulsory subject in numerous Indian schools.The population lives mainly in scattered small villages, the largest being the capital Padum , with nearly 700 inhabitants. Most of the villages are located in the valleys of the Zanskar river and its two main tributaries. Given

901-508: The glaciers which melt in the summer and provide most of the irrigation water. Parts of Zanskar valley are considered some of the coldest continually inhabited places in the world. Zanskar's population is small, the 2011 census recorded a population of 13,793 people. The sex ratio was 862 females per 1,000 males. The literacy rate was 59.73%. The majority of Zanskaris are of mixed Tibetan and Indo-European origins; notably Changpa , Dard and Mon. The latter are ethnically Dard, but "Mon"

954-498: The yak , is of paramount importance in Zanskar. Yaks are used to plough the land, thresh grain, and carry heavy loads (up to 200 kilograms). Their dung not only serves as fertiliser but is also the only heating fuel available in the region. They are a vital source of milk and sometimes, but rarely, of meat. Yak fur is used to make clothes, carpets, ropes, and bed covers. The Zanskaris' main occupations are cattle-rearing and farming of land that they almost always own. Cultivable land

1007-529: The 7th century by the Tibetans, who imposed their then animistic Bön religion. Buddhism regained its influence over Zanskar in the 8th century when Tibet was also converted to this religion. Between the 10th and 11th centuries, two Royal Houses were founded in Zanskar, and the monasteries of Karsha and Phugtal (see picture) were built. Until the 15th century Zanskar existed as a more or less independent Buddhist Kingdom ruled by two to four related royal families. In

1060-467: The Buddhists were reluctant to use, but in some cases were forced to try, with as yet undocumented success. In 2008 it was reported that the locusts had left the central Zanskar plains. People of Zanskar demanded having their own district, separate from the existing Kargil district, for more than 70 years. The Ladakh Buddhist Association also demanded the creation of a Zanskar district. In August 2024,

1113-625: The Doda and Lingti–kargyag valleys, which run north-west to south-east. To the south-west is the Great Himalayan Range which separates Zanskar from the Kisthwar and Chamba basins. To the north-east lies the Zanskar Range, which separates Zanskar from Ladakh. The only outlet for the whole Zanskar hydrographic system is thus the Zanskar river, which cuts the deep and narrow Zanskar Gorge through

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1166-484: The Lungnak River (Lingti- Tsarap River). The monastery today houses a main temple, prayer rooms, a library with rare sacred texts, apartments and living quarters, teaching facilities, a kitchen, and of course, the original cave and the sacred spring, which is protected. It is home to about 70 monks. There is a stone tablet which serves as a reminder of the stay of Alexander Csoma de Kőrös at Phuktal, while he worked on

1219-660: The Padam area of Zanskar and beyond 43 km no one can go by foot. After consulting all local engineers, including Army engineers, we were not able to do anything". On 20 February 2015, the National Disaster Management Authority submitted a report after a ground survey. The committee, headed by the Union Cabinet Secretary, deployed a team at the site to carry out controlled blasting and manual work to allow channelized flow of water. The severe temperatures in

1272-514: The Phuktal Gompa. These are occasions for the monks to interact with the villagers and for the villagers to visit the monastery. Festivals help to preserve the centuries-old traditions and to spread dharma . They also enable the monks to accumulate good karma for the next life through offerings, worship, prayers and service. The festivals celebrated at Phuktal Monastery, starting around the end of February, are mentioned below. The Tibetan calendar

1325-605: The Tsarap River flows north-east up to Sarchu , a camping site at the Leh-Manali Highway . Here the Tsarap River joins a confluence of three rivers: of Lingti, Yunan and Sarchu River. At village Purne, the Tsarap River is joined by Kargyag River, which originates near the Shingo La pass. Then the Tsarap River flows down the main Zanskar valley, through the towns of Mone, Tichip, Jamyang Lang, Dorzong and Chia. The river then meets

1378-468: The Tsarap, Stod and the Zanskar rivers. A lake was formed on the Tsarap River due to a landslide dam at 33°17′25″N 77°17′06″E  /  33.29028°N 77.28500°E  / 33.29028; 77.28500 , 90 miles (140 km) upstream (south) of Padum , the commercial hub of Zanskar . The landslide, which occurred on 31 December 2014 between Shun and Phuktal villages, was first noticed when

1431-517: The Zanskar range. These topographical features explain why access to Zanskar is difficult from all sides. Communication with the neighbouring Himalayan areas is maintained across mountain passes or along the Zanskar river when frozen. The easiest approach leads from Kargil through the Suru valley and over the Penzi-La. It is along this track that in 1979 the only road in Zanskar was built to connect Padum with

1484-492: The animals are sent during the summer higher up in the mountains (the alpine meadows) and were kept by the children and women. Tourism is probably the major disruption that Zanskar has experienced during recent times. The opening of this region to foreigners has brought changes such as the financing of schools and the restoration of monasteries and roads, but has also taken its toll on the fragile mountain environment and its population. The first colour film of life in Zanskar

1537-466: The cave, and so is the great leader and translator Lama Marpa Lotsawa . In the 12th century, the Tibetan translator Zanskar Lotsawa Phagpa Sherab also lived and worked from Phuktal. The eminent scholars and brothers Dangsong, Pun, and Sum, who were believed to have the supernatural power of flight gave teachings on Dharma at Phuktal. When Jangsem Sherap Zangpo arrived at Phuktal, the three brothers bequeathed

1590-460: The common practice of polyandrous marriage, in which several brothers are married to the same wife, and the widespread adoption of a celibate religious life. A high infant mortality rate also contributes to population stability. In the summer, the women and children stay far away from the villages to tend to the livestock. This system, known as transhumance , is similar to the one found in the Alps where

1643-401: The country, receives heavy snowfall along with the other pass, Zojila , which results in the valley being cut off during winter from rest of the state, with the river freezing during this season. The river source at Pankpo La near Sarchu lies 255 kilometres (158 mi) southeast from the nearest airport of Leh . The Tsarap River is famous for adventure sports. Rafting events are organised in

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1696-475: The early 17th century, Zanskar was conquered by Sengge Namgyal and was incorporated into Ladakh. In 1822 a coalition of Kulu , Lahoul , and Kinnaur invaded Zanskar, plundering the country and destroying the royal palace at Padum. In the mid-20th century, border conflicts between India, Pakistan and China caused Ladakh and Zanskar to be closed to foreigners. During these wars Ladakh lost two thirds of its original territory, losing Baltistan to Pakistan and

1749-462: The first English-Tibetan dictionary between 1826 and 1827, when he explored Ladakh. The Phuktal Gompa maintains a Traditional Tibetan medical clinic, catering to the local community. There is an on-site Amchi , a traditional Tibetan physician who provides natural Sowa-Rigpa medicine , many of which have been prepared at the monastery itself. The village life in the Lungnak Valley revolves around

1802-417: The holy site to him and departed. According to legend, the spiritually gifted Zangpo caused a spring to appear and run from the cave, a tree to grow on top of the cave and for the cave itself to grow larger in size. Then, under his guidance, the present structure of the monastery was built around the cave. It is built in the cliffside, like a honeycomb. The cliff is part of a lateral gorge of a major tributary of

1855-448: The isolation of this region, the inhabitants tend towards self-sufficiency, and until recently lived in almost complete autarky . External trade has, however, always been necessary for the acquisition of goods such as tools , jewellery , or religious artefacts . Much of Zanskar's vegetation is found in the irrigated villages, and on the upper slopes, which receive more precipitation and grow alpine and tundra species. Most impressive are

1908-406: The last twenty years, the opening of a road and the massive influx of tourists and researchers have brought many changes to the traditional social organisation of Zanskar. In 2007 the valley suffered its third year of a desert locust infestation with many villages losing their crops. The response of the monasteries puja (prayer) to get rid of them, while the government advocated insecticides, which

1961-411: The main road from Srinagar into Ladakh. One of the first Tibetologists to spend an extended period in the region was Hungarian scholar Sándor Csoma de Kőrös who spent over a year living in the region in 1823. After being integrated into the newly formed state of India in 1947, Zanskar and the neighbouring region of Ladakh were both declared restricted areas and only opened to foreigners in 1974. Zanskar

2014-538: The meadows covered with thousands of edelweiss . At the foot of the Gumburanjon mountain, blue poppies can be found. Crops including barley , lentils , and potatoes are grown by farmers at the lower elevations. Domesticated animals such as the yak , dzo , sheep, horse, and dog are found in the region. Among the wildlife found in Zanskar are the marmot , bear , wolf , snow leopard , bharal , alpine ibex , gray goral , and lammergeier . Livestock, and especially

2067-470: The monastery has been built, and has for long been a place for retreat, meditation, learning, and teaching. This is reflected in its name Phuktal, which is derived from Phukthal , made up of Phuk ཕུག meaning 'cave', and Tal དལ་ or Thal meaning 'at leisure' in the endangered Zangskari dialect of the Tibetic languages . An alternate spelling of Phuktal is Phukthar , where Thar ཐར means 'liberation'. Hence,

2120-416: The monastery were brought on horses, donkeys, and mules in the warmer months, and in the frozen winters, they were transported through the frozen Zanskar River . Before the road was built, it was a day's walk from Village Chah or Village Khangsaar, the end of the road leading from Padum . The Phuktal Gompa owes its legacy to powerful and renowned scholars and teachers who resided in the cave, around which

2173-631: The monastery. Monks from the monastery attend local village events of significance, such as birth, deaths and weddings, performing traditional prayer ceremonies. The villagers visit the monastery to offer prayers, consult the Amchi and to attend festivals and special events at the monastery. The village and the monastery has remained largely untouched by modern development. The Monastery was electrified by Global Himalayan Expedition in July 2016 through setting up of solar micro-grids. Festivals are an important feature of

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2226-464: The name Phuktal means 'the cave of leisure' or 'the cave of liberation'. The Phuktal Monastery is built around a natural cave, which is believed to have been visited by numerous sages, scholars, translators, and monks around 2,550 years ago. The remote location of the monastery was ideal for monks looking for peace and solitude to meditate. The present Phuktal Gompa, of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism ,

2279-401: The natural occurrence of copper in this region, the Tibetan word for which is "Zangs". The second syllable however seems to be more challenging as it has various meanings: "Zangs-dkar" (white copper), "Zangs-mkhar" (copper palace), or "Zangs-skar" (copper star). Others claim it derives from zan = copper + skar = valley. John Crook (1994) partly shares this interpretation but suggests that

2332-438: The origin of this name might also be "Zan-mKhar" (food palace), because the staple food crops are so abundant in an otherwise rather arid region. The locally accepted spelling of the name in Tibetan script is zangs-dkar. Some of the religious scholars of the district, also cited by Snellgrove and Skorupsky (1980) and Crook (1994), hold that it was originally "bzang-dkar", meaning good (or beautiful) and white. "Good" would refer to

2385-458: The region, below -20 °C, had frozen the lake and chances of a breach would rise with a temperature increase in the following days. Authorities closed down the old trade route , the Chadar Trek , and airlifted the people stranded therein to safer places. People living downstream of Tsarap were also warned to move to higher ground. Control rooms were set up at Padum and Phuktal to keep watch on

2438-512: The situation. Zanskar Zanskar , Zahar (locally) or Zangskar , is the southwestern region of the Indian union territory of Ladakh . The administrative centre of Zanskar is Padum . Zanskar, together with the rest of Ladakh, was briefly a part of the kingdom of Western Tibet called Ngari Khorsum. Zanskar lies 250 km south of Kargil town on NH301 . In August 2024, the Ministry of Home Affairs announced that Zanskar will become

2491-453: The students, and the monastery bears the cost for the room, board and study materials of the students, with help from sponsors. Many students are children from the local farming families in the Lungnak Valley, which are extremely poor and uneducated. On 31 December 2014, a landslide occurred between the Shun and Phuktal villages. This caused the formation of a landslide dam on the Tsarap River. It

2544-495: The triangular shape of the Padum plain, the triangle being the symbol of Dharma and religion; "white" would refer to the simplicity, goodness, and religious inclinations of the native population. The first traces of human activity in Zanskar seem to go back as far as the Bronze Age . Petroglyphs attributed to that period suggest that their creators were hunters on the steppes of central Asia, living between Kazakhstan and China. It

2597-516: The village of Purney to form the Lungnak river (also known as the Lingti or Tsarap river). The Lungnak river then flows north-westwards along a narrow gorge towards Zanskar's central valley (known locally as jung-khor), where it unites with the Doda river to form the Zanskar river. The Zanskar river then takes a north-eastern course until it joins the Indus in Ladakh. High mountain ridges lie on both sides of

2650-503: Was believed to be fine-grained, with boulders having a narrow crest. A report submitted by local authorities prohibited the use of explosives to clear the debris, for fear that it would trigger more landslides and aggravate the situation. They called on the National Disaster Management Authority for assessment of the situation. According to the deputy collector of Zanskar, "The lake has been created around 90 km from

2703-476: Was established in the early 15th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo , a disciple of Je Tsongkhapa. Tsongkhapa was the founder of Gelug, which is one of the newest schools of Tibetan Buddhism. Believed to be one of the earliest residents of the cave are the 16 Arhats , or the legendary followers of Buddha . The images of these 16 Arhats appear on the cave walls. The great scholars and translators Padmasambhava and Phakspa Nestan Dusdan are believed to have lived in

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2756-617: Was first noticed due to the recession in the water level of the Nimoo Bazgo Hydroelectric Plant down the river. The lake formed behind the dam increased in length and height as compared to the height of the blockade. In May 2015, the Phuktal River flooded and washed away the entire school campus. The building, equipment, materials, and stores were all destroyed. The monastery has applied to the Jammu and Kashmir State Government and

2809-601: Was shot in 1958 by an expedition of three British housewives. The 2001 movie Samsara was entirely shot in Zanskar. In 2010, the American film director Frederick Marx made a documentary called " Journey from Zanskar ". Narrated by Richard Gere , the film tells the story of two monks helping 17 poor children reaching Tibetan schools in India through a difficult and dangerous terrain. Phugtal Monastery Phuktal Monastery or Phuktal Gompa (often transliterated as Phugtal )

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