Jewellery design is the art or profession of designing and creating jewellery . It is one of civilization's earliest forms of decoration , dating back at least 7,000 years to the oldest-known human societies in Indus Valley Civilization , Mesopotamia , and Egypt . The art has taken many forms throughout the centuries, from the simple beadwork of ancient times to the sophisticated metalworking and gem-cutting known in the modern day.
16-508: Thewa is a special art of jewelry making which involves fusing of intricately worked-out sheet gold on molten glass. It evolved in Pratapgarh district, Rajasthan India . Its origin dates back to the rajput era . Thewa is a traditional art of fusing 23K Gold with multicoloured glass which had almost completely died out, till Revivalist designer Roopa Vohra, single handedly revived this dying art form, dedicating over two decades to make thewa
32-480: A 23carat gold sheet of 40gauge thickness set onto the mixture and the free hand design etched on it. Black paint spread over the gold sheet that highlights the design so it becomes clearly visible for further detailed work with fine tools. The craftsman removes the excess gold creating a design often based on the Hindu mythology or Mughal court scenes, historical events or with flora and fauna motifs. Nathu ji Soni invented
48-538: A household name and synonymous with her. Shri Mahesh Rajsoni was awarded with Padma shri award in 2015, for excellency in this art craft. Roopa Vohra gets the sole credit to breath a fresh lease of life into thewa. The glass is treated by a special process to have glittering effects, which in turn highlights the intricate gold work. The whole Thewa piece is hand crafted over a period of one month by skilled artisans. Thewa, an art that pulsates with life, caught seemingly in movement, in motifs used on jewellery, which shows
64-419: A shift is taking place to computer-aided design programs. Whereas the traditionally hand-illustrated jewel is typically translated into wax or metal directly by a skilled craftsman, a CAD model is generally used as the basis for a CNC cut or 3D printed 'wax' pattern to be used in the rubber moulding or lost wax casting processes. Once conceptual/ideation is complete, the design is rendered and fabricated using
80-685: A specific complex design element that later would forge the Baroque movement in jewellery design. Traditionally, jewels were seen as sacred and precious; however, since the 1900s, jewellery has started to be objectified. Additionally, no one trend can be seen in the history of jewellery design for this period. Throughout the 20th-century jewellery design underwent drastic and continual style changes: Art Nouveau (1900–1918), Art Deco (1919–1929), International Style & organicism (1929–1946), New Look & Pop (1947–1967), Globalization, Materialism, and Minimalism . Jewellery design trends are highly affected by
96-414: Is created, design concepts are rendered followed by detailed technical drawings generated by a jewellery designer, a professional who is trained in the architectural and functional knowledge of materials, fabrication techniques, composition, wearability, and market trends. Traditional hand-drawing and drafting methods are still utilized in designing jewellery, particularly at the conceptual stage. However,
112-460: Is renowned for its Thewa work. Colored glass base, embossed with golden miniature artwork is the special attraction of the Thewa work. Floral patterns are etched on gold foil and superimposed on glass moulds and the glassware is cast in such moulds. Thewa pendants are famous pieces of jewelry and their blazing hues and exquisite patterns attract women across the world. Ramprasad Rajsoni is first awardee in
128-519: The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert. Other Origin : THEWA is a word from the local Rajasthani language which means “SETTING”. A 23ct gold piece is first beaten into a very thin sheet. Intricate designs are inscribed onto these gold sheets using very fine chisel. This gold sheet, called as “Thewa Ki Patti” is fixed to a lac-resin compound spread on a board by slightly warming
144-605: The LIMCA yearbook 2011 as "Eight national awards in one family". Hitesh RajSoni (2004), Girish Rajsoni have been awarded by " UNESCO Seal of Excellence Award ". They are among the youngest personalities in Rajsoni Family who got this Award. One such Young Artist Raghav rajsoni is the only one by whom Thewa kala got honoured in Taraz Kazaksthan as the first International award . Jewelry making Before an article of jewellery
160-414: The culture, heritage and tales of romance and valour of Rajasthan with nature and happiness depicting the art of the fine craftsmanship. The process of making thewa work is detailed; time consuming and intricate, taking up to a month to complete each piece. It starts with broken pieces of terracotta , finely ground, mixed with chemicals and oil to produce a thick paste. The paste spread on a wooden base has
176-465: The economic and social states of the time. The boundaries of styles and trends tend to blur together and the clear stylistic divisions of the past are harder to see during the 20th century. Girish Rajsoni Girish Rajsoni was the 2015 winner of the Shilp Guru award for thewa and gold filigree on glass . He is from Pratapgarh , Rajasthan , India . The Government of India has issued
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#1732872423649192-676: The lac and then pressing the gold sheet onto it. An open work pattern is pierced thru these gold sheets placed on the lac-resin covered board by knocking off the portions which ultimately creates the intricate design. The gold sheet is gently peeled off by heating it. Like the rest of Rajasthan handicrafts, the glass works of Pratapgarh are unique in both design and usage. Besides beautiful and traditional items such as handicraft items, glass photo frames, trays, glass art ware, glass jewelry boxes, lamp shades, flower vases, crystal wine glasses, flasks, glass pots, antique crystal chandeliers, glass coasters, glass lamp shades and glass paintings, Pratapgarh
208-460: The necessary materials for proper adaptation to the function of the object. For example, 24K gold was used in ancient jewellery design because it was more accessible than silver as source material. Before the 1st century, many civilizations also incorporated beads into jewellery. Once the discovery of gemstones and gem cutting became more readily available, the art of jewellery ornamentation and design shifted. The earliest documented gemstone cut
224-454: The process in 1767; the secrets of the craft that passed directly from father to son over the generations remains it in the family only, who call themselves 'Raj-Sonis’. Many of the members from this family have been awarded by UNESCO , National & State Government. Some of the finest examples of this unique form of decorative art are in local museum collections in India as well as abroad including
240-573: The thewa-kala for his master-craftmanship in 1966. Like many others of the local craftsmen, Jagdish Lal Raj Soni , Beni Ram Soni , Girish Rajsoni craftspersons from Pratapgarh in Rajasthan state in India were also awarded Shilp Guru Award for Thewa art. Recently one craftsman Mahesh Raj Soni of the traditional artisan family has won another national award and Padma Shree 2015 for his excellent Thewa handicraft and with this his family has been featured in
256-561: Was done by Theophilus Presbyter (c. 1070–1125), who practised and developed many applied arts and was a known goldsmith. Later, during the 14th century, medieval lapidary technology evolved to include cabochons and cameos . Early jewellery design commissions were often constituted by nobility or the church to honour an event or as wearable ornamentation. Within the structure of early methods, enameling and repoussé became standard methods for creating ornamental wares to demonstrate wealth, position, or power. These early techniques created
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