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54-490: Cascale comprises over 300 members across brands, retailers, manufacturers, NGOs, and affiliates and is said to represent more than 40 percent of the industry. Membership has included H&M, Gap Inc., Nike, adidas, Puma, Patagonia, Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC), Levi's, Hanesbrand, Marks & Spencer, Esprit, Columbia, Timberland and Loomstate. It seeks to lead the industry toward a shared vision of sustainability built upon

108-528: A " Nature-Positive Future". This is outlined in its "Evolution for Impact" strategic plan, revised in 2023. The SAC said Higg Index tools are designed to enhance standardized sustainability pathways for the apparel, footwear, and consumer goods sectors. Today, more than 24,000 organizations around the world are using the Higg Index, and its global reach and variety ensure that the SAC can now catalyze change from within

162-508: A "made in Ethiopia" brand, the government , global brands and foreign manufacturers did not anticipate that the base salary was simply too low for workers to make a living from." Indian clothing and apparel industry is one of the largest employment generating sector after agriculture in India and is sixth largest exporter in the world. India is the second largest producer of fibre in the world. Cotton

216-532: A combination of factors, including diminishing family farmland for agriculture and the growing necessity of earning wages to support their families as traditional subsistence methods decline. She also notes that these rural-to-urban migrants often work not only in factories but also in their homes, contributing to the subcontracting labor market that mirrors historical practices in Europe. This continuity of subcontracting labor across time and geographic regions underscores

270-417: A common approach to measuring sustainability. The nonprofit's members include brands producing apparel or footwear; retailers; industry affiliates and trade associations; the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, academic institutions and environmental nonprofits, among others. The Higg Index provides a suite of five tools for the apparel industry and footwear industry to assess sustainability throughout

324-412: A common metric for measuring sustainability performance called The Higg Index . Today, the Higg Index reports 24,000 users. It has faced criticism and changes in recent years, especially in regards to the Higg Index. Amid the pandemic, in 2020, the nonprofit developed a new strategic plan titled "Evolution for Impact," which outlines three strategic pillars: combat climate change, decent work for all, and

378-572: A group of outdoor companies including REI, MEC, Patagonia, Outdoor Research and others starting in 2007. Leaders of the group at this time included Kevin Myette, Greg Scott, Ammi Borenstein, Peter Girard, Nick Sterling and many others. After 2–3 years of independent work the Eco Index was adopted by the Outdoor Industry Association and ultimately became a core component of the Higg Index. The SAC

432-654: A monthly salary of 26 dollars per month. These very low wages have led to low productivity, frequent strikes and high turnover. Some factories have replaced all their employees on average every 12 months, according to the 2019 report of the Stern Centre for Business and Human Rights at New York University . The report states: "Rather than the docile and cheap labour force promoted in Ethiopia, foreign-based suppliers have met employees who are unhappy with their pay and living conditions and who want to protest more and more by stopping work or even quitting. In their eagerness to create

486-591: A nature-positive future. Outdoor brand Patagonia and retailer Walmart created the SAC in 2009 to find a unified way to measure sustainability performance in the industry. Adventurer and businessman Rick Ridgeway cofounded the SAC while working with Patagonia. The Higg Index includes the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM), Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (FSLM), Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM), Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI), and Higg Product Module (PM). In recent years,

540-468: A new strike movement, nearly 1,000 people were injured among workers as a result of the repression. On 24 April 2013 in the Savar Upazila of Dhaka District, Bangladesh, where a commercial building called Rana Plaza collapsed. The Rana Plaza once stood as an 8 story building that housed many garment factories, including Zara , Joe Fresh , and Walmart . On April 24, 2013, the building collapsed and lead to

594-520: A pilot with 400 users. SAC said the updates resulted in improved data precision, alignment with key industry standards, expanded environmental impacts, user-centric design, and audit efficiency. Apparel industry Clothing industry or garment industry summarizes the types of trade and industry along the production and value chain of clothing and garments , starting with the textile industry (producers of cotton , wool , fur , and synthetic fibre ), embellishment using embroidery , via

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648-681: A product's entire life cycle, from materials to end-of-life. The metrics created Higg Index are limited to a company's internal use for the evaluation and improvement of environmental performance. As of 2012, plans for a future version included a scoring scale to communicate a product's sustainability to consumers and other stakeholders. As of 2023, the Higg Index Suite of Tools included the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM), Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (FSLM), Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM), Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI), and Higg Product Module (PM). The metrics created by

702-615: A seamless shopping experience across multiple channels. Retailers often use a range of strategies to attract and retain customers. These include offering discounts and promotions, providing excellent customer service, and creating a strong brand identity. In recent years, there has been an increasing focus on sustainability and ethical fashion, and retailers are adapting their strategies to cater to these trends. Many retailers are now offering sustainable clothing lines and using environmentally friendly production processes to appeal to consumers who prioritize sustainability. The clothing retail sector

756-591: A tool for measuring working conditions in facilities. The SAC is also a founding member of the "apparel alliance," alongside Textile Exchange, Apparel Impact Institute (Aii), and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). With the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and the Federation of European Sporting Goods, the SAC co-founded the Policy Hub in 2020 to propose sustainability policies. Policy Hub openly advocates for

810-685: Is a major source of retail sales for the clothing industry. Retailers do not typically manufacture their own items and henceforth they purchase their goods from wholesalers and manufactures. This makes it so that they can mark down their prices, and make them cheaper to consumers. This process is called a Supply Chain , which is the way in which companies and suppliers are able to distribute products to consumers. Fast-fashion based companies can quickly manufacture and distribute their designs. These quick made designs often result in extra waste, low-paid workers, and overconsumption . Fast fashion companies include Zara , Forever21 , Old Navy , and Gap . Overall,

864-541: Is a vital part of the clothing industry, as it connects manufacturers and consumers , drives demand for clothing, and contributes significantly to the economy . The retail clothing industry has undergone significant changes in recent years due to the rise of e-commerce . Online retailers such as Amazon , ASOS , and Zara have disrupted the traditional brick-and-mortar retail model and forced established retailers to adapt to new consumer behaviors. Many traditional retailers have invested in their online platforms to offer

918-421: Is highly competitive, with retailers constantly innovating to stay ahead of the competition. Fast fashion retailers such as H&M , Zara , and Forever 21 have gained popularity by offering trendy clothing at affordable prices. However, the environmental and social impact of fast fashion has come under scrutiny in recent years, leading to a rise in popularity of sustainable and ethical fashion. Fast fashion

972-857: Is projected that the United States market will be worth $ 385 billion. It is also projected that the e-commerce revenue will be worth $ 146 billion in the United States by 2023. The worldwide market for textiles and apparel exports in 2013 according to United Nations Commodity Trade Statistics Database stood at $ 772 billion. In 2016, the largest apparel exporting nations were China ($ 161 billion), Bangladesh ($ 28 billion), Vietnam ($ 25 billion), India ($ 18 billion), Hong Kong ($ 16 billion), Turkey ($ 15 billion) and Indonesia ($ 7 billion). Export processing zones (EPZs) are designated areas where manufacturers are able to import materials, process, and assemble goods for re-export, exempt from taxes and duties. Many manufacturers view EPZs as catalysts for economic growth with

1026-539: Is the largest manufacturing industry in Pakistan, the fourth largest global producer of cotton, and the eighth largest exporter of textile products in Asia. It contributes to 8.5% of GDP and provides employment to 30% of the 56 million strong national workforce, or 40% of industrial employment. Punjab Province dominates the textile industry in Pakistan. Realising the economic and employment implications of non-compliance for Pakistan,

1080-569: Is the most produced fibre in India. Other fibres produced in India include silk, wool, and jute. 60% of the Indian textile Industry is cotton based. Indian clothing industry dates back to Harappan civilisation and is one of the oldest clothing manufacturing industry in the world. India produces various types of clothing including woven and knitted clothing. Mumbai , Surat , Tiruppur , Ahmedabad , Bangalore , Delhi , Ludhiana and Chennai are important manufacturing centres of India. The textile industry

1134-556: The Indian subcontinent and Central America . Although globalization saw the manufacturing largely outsourced to overseas labor markets, there has been a trend for the areas historically associated with the trade to shift focus to the more white collar associated industries of fashion design , fashion modeling and retail. Areas historically involved heavily in the "rag trade" includes London (United Kingdom) and Milan (Italy) in Europe , and

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1188-592: The SoHo district in New York City (United States). There are considerable overlaps between the terms clothing-/garment-, textile - and fashion industry . The clothing sector is concerned with all types of clothes, from fashion to uniforms , e-textiles and workwear . Textile industry is less concerned with the fashion aspect but produces the fabrics and fibres that are required for tailoring . The fashion industry closely follows and sets fashion trends always supplies

1242-468: The fashion industry to apparel retailers up to trade with second-hand clothes and textile recycling . The producing sectors build upon a wealth of clothing technology some of which, like the loom , the cotton gin , and the sewing machine heralded industrialization not only of the previous textile manufacturing practices. Clothing industries are also known as allied industries, fashion industries, garment industries, or soft goods industries. By

1296-703: The Higg Index are limited to a company's internal use for the evaluation and improvement of environmental performance. The Higg Index was adapted from two previously existing sustainability measurement standards: the Nike Apparel Environmental Design Tool and the 2007 Eco Index created by the Outdoor Industry Association , the European Outdoor Group and the Zero Waste Alliance . The Eco Index had been created by

1350-551: The Norwegian Consumer Authority (NCA) notified SAC that its transparency program was potentially "misleading" to consumers. The Higg MSI tools were also challenged for allegedly promoting use of synthetics. In response to the NCA inquiry, the SAC paused its consumer-labeling pilot and increased engagement with consumer groups. The organization also announced it would expedite an independent review of its tools. In December 2023,

1404-477: The Product Environmental Footprint (PEF). In February 2024, the SAC rebranded as Cascale citing a new evolution for the organization. Higg Index The Higg Index is an apparel and footwear industry self-assessment standard to rate environmental and social sustainability throughout the supply chain . The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) launched it in 2012 and owns and develops

1458-445: The SAC has evolved solely from its tools to programs like the 2030 Decarbonization Program or Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP) to help the industry decarbonize. The programs align with a 45-percent emissions reduction pathway by 2030 to take charge of the industry's sizable contribution to climate change. The first version of the Higg Index was published in 2012, but the organization continues to make tool updates. In June 2022,

1512-430: The SAC's then chief executive officer Amina Razvi left the organization after several years, citing a mutual decision with the board. The nonprofit is influential in apparel, counting a number of spinoff organizations including technology partner Worldly (formerly Higg Co.), Apparel Impact Institute (Aii), and Social & Labor Convergence Project (SLCP). SAC and SLCP helped create The Converged Assessment Framework (CAF),

1566-563: The apparel supply chain . As of 2013, Metrics pertaining to footwear as well as labor and social sustainability were planned for a future release. On 11 December 2013, an updated version of the Higg Index was released. In October 2015, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition announced the launch of the Social Labor and Convergence Project, which seeks to establish a uniform standard for auditing labor conditions and social impact in

1620-402: The apparel and footwear industries. The Higg Index has been criticized for being based on poor data and using a non-transparent approach resulting in misleading information which fiber is more sustainable. The index is rating synthetics as the most sustainable choice. In a June 2022 statement in response to a New York Times article, former chief executive officer Amina Razvi said the assumption

1674-671: The clothing industry. By the turn of the 20th century, the significance of this labor force was evident: a 1901 census of Bristol, England, revealed that female outworkers made up nearly one-third of all workers in the clothing industry. This phenomenon of women leaving their homes to pursue wage labor is not limited to historical contexts in Europe. Researcher Michaela Doutch examines similar patterns in modern Cambodia, where approximately 80 percent of women garment workers are migrants who have left their rural family homes to seek employment in Phnom Penh. Doutch explains that these women are driven by

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1728-417: The consumer-facing part of the SAC's transparency program was potentially misleading to consumers. June 27, 2022 the Sustainable Apparel Coalition said that it will pause the use of consumer-facing Higg MSI labels globally. Since the initial outreach from the NCA, and following the publication of a guidance document, the SAC stated it was "grateful for the collaboration and productive discussions" and that it

1782-427: The country lacks a strong textile manufacturing base. China has held the position of the world's largest clothing manufacturer for over a decade, commanding over 50% of global apparel production. In 2021, the country's apparel market generated an impressive revenue of $ 303 billion USD. The province of Guangdong serves as the epicenter of clothing production, housing a vast network of over 28,000 exporting enterprises. In

1836-455: The death of 1,134 people with many more injured. Structural cracks of the Rana Plaza were identified the day before, but many workers were told to still come into work the next day. The Rana Plaza tragedy brought worldwide attention to the reality of the textile industry and modern day textile workers. The search for the dead ended on 13 May 2013. Although many advancements have been made since

1890-488: The early 1900s, “by the early twenty-first century, little had changed for textile workers the world. Female mill operatives in Bangladesh, for example, earn wages 40% percent lower than men”. A common tactic by manufacturers is to outsource and move the labour to “countries with the lowest wages, and by proxy, the lowest working standards”. In the twenty-first century, women are still often underpaid and undervalued in terms of

1944-535: The early 20th century, the industry in the developed world often involved immigrants in " sweat shops ", which were usually legal but were sometimes illegally operated. They employed people in crowded and hostile conditions, working manual sewing machines , and being paid less than a living wage for up to 10-to-13-hour shifts. This trend worsened due to attempts to protect existing industries which were being challenged by developing countries in South East Asia ,

1998-423: The eco-friendly packaging commitment. China banned imports on packing waste in 2017, Canada implemented Zero Plastic Waste in 2018, and U.S introduced bills around reducing single use packing waste. The nonprofit organisation As You Sow produced a report in 2010 which argued that "apparel industry leaders have made changes to their purchasing practices ... to improve working conditions in factories". Workers in

2052-697: The first quarter of 2022 alone, the province's clothing manufacturing sector contributed $ 6.3 billion USD in export value. However, since 2015, China's clothing sector has exhibited a notable shift towards sustainability, with a reduced emphasis on expanding scale and a greater focus on technology-driven approaches to enhance productivity. This transformation has been largely motivated by the escalating labor costs, compelling businesses to transition from labor-intensive practices to more efficient and automated methods. Employees of Ethiopian garment factories, who work for brands such as Guess , H&M or Calvin Klein , receive

2106-418: The industry. However, the Higg Index has been criticized by some for using poor data and a non-transparent approach resulting in potentially misleading information on which fiber is more sustainable. The Sustainable Apparel Coalition owns and develops the Higg Index. Walmart and Patagonia founded the SAC in 2009 with the goal of convening stakeholders across the industry on a pre-competitive basis to develop

2160-490: The largest portion of the country's manufacturing sector, accounting for 80% of all exports. In 2012, exports grew to $ 4.61 billion, up 8% over 2011. In the first half of 2013, the Cambodian garment industry reported exports worth $ 1.56 billion. The sector employs 335,400 workers, of which 91% are female. The sector operates largely in the final phase of garment production, which includes turning yarns and fabrics into garments, as

2214-453: The latest in non-functional clothing. Historian Judith Bennett highlights the significant connection between women and the clothing industry, noting that “In both 1381 and 1700, two of every five women found employment in service, and a third worked in textile or clothing manufacturing.” This long-standing relationship between women and textile production laid the foundation for shifts in labor patterns during industrialization. One such shift

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2268-608: The minimal possible regulations, thus relocating production to these zones to maximize profits. According to UN Women (formerly known as UNIFEM), women comprise a significant majority of the workforce in EPZs, accounting for 90% in Nicaragua, 80% in Bangladesh, and 75% in Honduras, the Philippines, and Sri Lanka. Many Western multinationals use labour in Bangladesh, which is one of the cheapest in

2322-489: The national government has developed an International Labour Standard (ILS) Compliance and Reporting Programme to improve workplace practices in the textile industry together with the ILO. Retail in the clothing industry involves the selling of clothes to consumers through physical and online stores. Clothing retailers range from small, independently owned boutiques to large chain stores and department stores . The retail sector

2376-465: The organization launched its 2030 Decarbonization Program in 2022. In March 2023, the SAC updated the Higg BRM which assesses sustainability performance across 11 key impact areas within three pillars: environmental, social, and governance better aligning with upcoming regulation. In November 2023, the SAC launched the updated Higg FEM 4.0 based on more than two years of collected feedback from members and

2430-431: The persistent role of women as a flexible and low-cost labor force in the clothing industry. Whether in historical England or contemporary Cambodia, the economic pressures driving women into garment work—and the structures that exploit their labor—remain consistent. The garment industry is a major contributor to the economies of many countries. The industry for Ready Made Garments has been criticized by labor advocates for

2484-447: The retail sector plays a vital role in the clothing industry, connecting manufacturers with consumers and driving demand for clothing. The sector is constantly evolving and adapting to changes in consumer behavior and societal trends. The clothing industry has grown to an eco-friendly packaging solution to limit the amount of waste. The regulator, Fast-Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) companies, and retailers are contributing their efforts to

2538-400: The suite of tools. The nonprofit consists of more than 300 fashion brands, retailers, manufacturers, academic institutions, affiliates, NGOs and governments. While initially formed to create standardized sustainability metrics, the SAC has since sharpened its focus to driving pre-competitive, collective action across three foundational pillars: "Combat Climate Change", "Decent Work for All", and

2592-476: The textiles they produce and “because of its historical association as being "cheap" and "flexible," women's labor within the textile and garment industries is particularly suited to the dynamics of production along the global assembly line. It is cheap both in terms of prevailing wage levels and in terms of the unhealthy and unsafe conditions under which women often work". The garment industry in Cambodia represents

2646-591: The use of sweatshops , piece work and child labor . Working conditions in low-cost countries have received critical media coverage, especially in the aftermath of large-scale disasters like the 2013 Savar building collapse or the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire . In 2016, the largest apparel exporting nations were China ($ 161 billion), Bangladesh ($ 28 billion), Vietnam ($ 25 billion), India ($ 18 billion), Hong Kong ($ 16 billion), Turkey ($ 15 billion) and Indonesia ($ 7 billion). By 2025, it

2700-664: The world: 30 euros per month compared to 150 or 200 in China. In 2005 a factory collapsed and caused the death of 64 people. In 2006, a series of fires killed 85 people and injured 207 others. In 2010, some 30 people died of asphyxiation and burns in two serious fires. In 2006, tens of thousands of workers mobilized in one of the country's largest strike movements, affecting almost all of the 4,000 factories. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) used police forces to crack down. Three workers were killed, hundreds more were wounded by bullets, or imprisoned. In 2010, after

2754-658: Was established as brands and retailers sought to self-regulate on environmental and sustainability issues. Version 1.0 of the Higg Index was made public in July 2012. According to the Coalition's Executive Director in 2012, the name "Higg" was inspired by the Higgs Boson search. The name Higg also met other key criteria: it was short, easy to pronounce and was able to clear trademark registration in 120 countries. In its first iteration, Higg Index metrics focus on environmental factors in

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2808-425: Was the rapid adoption of sewing machines, which first became popular in middle-class households and later among working-class families. This technological change fueled the rise of “outworkers,” individuals who worked outside traditional factory settings, often from their homes. These outworkers, primarily women, frequently took on the lowest-paying jobs, becoming integral to an expanding system of subcontracted labor in

2862-464: Was working through the non legally binding guidance. A representative from the NCA also took part in the SAC's 2022 Annual Meeting in Singapore, as panelists discussed the challenges and opportunities of eco-labelling. The theme of the event was Collective Action on Common Ground . The organization has taken a proactive stance since the NCA's notice, as noted in its annual report. As another initiative,

2916-404: Was “incorrect," adding the SAC's communication guidelines specifically "prohibit brands from making comparisons across material types.” Razvi told WWD the tools are "constantly in evolution," with the changes made based upon best available science, use, and feedback. In June 2022, the Norwegian Consumer Authority notified the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, H&M and Norrøna that they concluded

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