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107-486: The mountain falls almost vertically along the side facing the highway, creating a dramatic effect that can easily be seen from the road below. Up on the mountain there are a number of paths and Via Ferrata climbing trails, which start next to the Naturum Höga Kusten information center at old Riksväg 13 ("Rikstretton"). A chairlift is also available for use during both the winter and summer months to carry people to

214-400: A "V" configuration. These were the first to be developed but suffer from a major limitation – it is essential to clip only one arm at a time onto the cable. If both arms are clipped, the energy absorber will not work. Some lanyards also have a short third arm which allows the climber to rest on steep sections. Some types of commercially available lanyards have retractable arms to keep them out of

321-415: A "bent gate" on the lower carabiner to make clipping-into the quickdraw even easier. Several devices are used for controlling the rope (e.g. belay devices and self-locking devices), moving up the rope (e.g. ascender devices), or moving down the rope (e.g. rappel/abseil or descender devices). These actions were historically performed by climbers with no mechanical devices (e.g. the body belay for belaying,

428-460: A 2012 accident. Austria, with as of 2009 over 550 Klettersteige, is arguably the country that has most enthusiastically embraced the via ferrata – with via ferratas promoted as a way to experience nature and with the regional sections of the ÖAV (Austrian Alpine Club) basing many of their harder walks around via ferratas. Via ferratas in Austria have a long history, with routes being established at

535-442: A 5-level grading system is provided below, but clearly individual guidebooks grades should be checked against their own definitions. One criticism of these grading system is that they ignore the severity and length of the difficulties – a long, high mountain route with extensive passages of grade D is very different from a short valley route also graded D, but with only a brief difficult section. To overcome this, additional ratings on

642-839: A closed circuit is near the village Vír and the eponymous dam. There are at least 4 via ferratas in Hungary . There are several via ferratas in the Rugova Mountains , near Peja . The Ari via ferrata was conceived in 2012 and constructed with the collaboration of Italian and Kosovar alpine clubs. The via ferrata Berim is near Zubin Potok and is the longest and highest in the Balkans. Several via ferratas ( 15 in 2020 ) are found in Norway , usually named by their Norwegian word klatresti which roughly translates as 'climbing trail'. The recent years have seen

749-428: A fall which can be much longer, the fall factor (which in rock climbing does not normally exceed two) can be high. These high factors generate considerable forces which the human body, as well as most items of climbing equipment, cannot withstand, leading to serious injury and equipment failure. To address this, a number of devices have been developed to act as shock absorbers or progressive brakes. They aim to dissipate

856-633: A fatal via ferrata accident in August 2012 where both elastic lanyards on the energy-absorbing systems (EAS) in a via ferrata set failed, the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation ( UIAA ) worked with manufacturers to identify and recall several models of EAS systems. In the European Economic Area , energy absorbing systems for use in via ferrata climbing are classed as personal protective equipment (PPE) and are subject to

963-634: A few places elsewhere. Via ferratas have traditionally been associated with limestone mountain regions, notably the Dolomites and the Northern Limestone Alps , as the steep nature of the terrain creates the need for some form of protected paths, while the presence of ledges and natural weaknesses means relatively easy but rewarding routes can often be created. However, they are now found in a range of different terrains. Simple protected paths, with ladders and basic protection aids, have probably existed in

1070-557: A few routes lead to a summit. The most difficult via ferrata in the world is on the Canary Islands (Via Ferrata Extraplomix, Gran Canaria , unique Grading G). A specialty are routes that lead through waterless canals (e.g. Canal de las Damas, Collbató , Grading D). Despite its central position in the Alps, via ferratas took a long time to arrive in Switzerland . It was not until 1993 that

1177-607: A fixed four-seater lift, opened in midsummer 2021, which replaced the two-seater lift from 1965, and four slopes (six slopes with two link passages). The chairlift is also run in summer for transporting pedestrians. On the south side of Skuleberget is the FriluftsByn attraction, an outdoor village which includes a play area, social areas, and a beach, and a former labyrinth. Via ferrata A via ferrata ( Italian for "iron path", plural vie ferrate or in English via ferratas )

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1284-516: A fixed or static rope that is hanging from a fixed anchor. They perform the same basic function as the dülfersitz abseil but with more control and less effort. The classic passive descender, and still widely used, is the figure-eight , although it is offered in more complex variations with "ears" and "wings" to prevent the rope from locking up. Many passive belay devices can be used as descenders, such as tubers/tubulars. Some modern descenders come with self-locking device (SLD) features that will grip

1391-568: A harness to a rope (or other anchor points, such as a metal cable). The difference is that lanyards are much stronger than quickdraws and are capable of withstanding fall factors of 2 as found on via ferrata or on multi-pitch climbing routes. They are often made from materials that can absorb dynamic energy and often come with additional optional fall energy absorption devices, and lanyards that have had heavy falls often have to be discarded. Lanyards are also constructed to be sufficiently flexible to resist being twisted. A sub-class of lanyards

1498-620: A longer version of a quickdraw or a makeshift lanyard. Slings can be made into more complex pieces of equipment such as the daisy chain , which is used in aid climbing, and the Personal Anchor System , which is used in securing a climber to a fixed anchor point. While lengths of webbing can be tied via a knot, such as a water knot , to create custom-length loops instead of the pre-sewn fixed-length slings, their load-bearing capacity can be materially reduced making them less safe. Climbers instead use cord (or "accessory cord"), which

1605-477: A primarily an A to F 6-point scale and 5 intermediate grades are also used (e.g. C/D). The website www.klettersteig.de uses grades 1 to 6, although based on the Schall system. In France, the 6 classic alpine grades are used: F – Facile; PD – Peu Difficile; AD – Assez Difficile; D– Difficile: TD – Très Difficile: ED – Extrêmement Difficile (although these grades bear no comparison to their Alpine counterparts). An outline of

1712-564: A record in Norway both in vertical metre and for the highest end point. Another via ferrata also opened in Åndalsnes in 2017. As of 2022, there are at least twelve areas with via ferrata routes in Romania. Most routes are "sport" oriented, opened in recent years, with grades varying from A to E. There is a cluster of twenty-one routes near Peștera Muierilor , in the Baia de Fier commune, Gorj county, where

1819-470: A reputation which it still retains. In developing the Via delle Bocchette, a certain ethic was followed – climbing aids were kept to a minimum, and the routes deliberately do not access any summits, an approach which is sometimes but not always followed by modern via ferratas. The Via delle Bocchette helped establish the idea of doing via ferratas in their own right, rather than as access to summits or to climbs. In

1926-727: A rope was fixed between the summits of Grossglockner , and in 1873 fixed protection was installed on the Zugspitze . In the Pyrenees , iron climbing aids were installed on the Pic du Midi d'Ossau in 1880, and in the Ordesa in 1881. The Northern Limestone Alps saw the first routes still in use today as via ferratas: the Heilbronner Way in the German Allgau Alps was constructed in 1899, shortly followed by

2033-435: A short, pre-sewn loop of webbing. They are used to reduce the friction and drag between the rope and the fixed point that can occur when the rope is just clipped into a carabiner clipped into the fixed point. In competition climbing , the quickdraws are already hanging from the pre-fixed bolts, which is called pinkpointing in sport climbing . The quickdraws used in advanced sport and in competition climbing routes often have

2140-507: A useful way to encourage tourism and increase the range of activities available to visitors, and so routes were developed by local communities, outdoor activity centres, cable car companies, mountain refuges and others, as well as continuing involvement by the Alpine clubs. Development of via ferratas has spread out of its original areas to the rest of the Alps and beyond. The first via ferrata in France

2247-427: A valid mountain activity in own right, with its own guidebooks, equipment, grading system and enthusiasts, with an increasing number of locations becoming available to undertake via ferrata climbs. Various grading systems exist for via ferratas. Most focus on the level of difficulty of the hardest passage and use a 5- or 6-point scale. Miller uses grades 1 to 5. The Kurt Schall guides ( Klettersteig-Atlas series) use

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2354-457: Is a climbing route in the mountains that employs steel cables, rungs, or ladders, fixed to the rock to which the climbers affix a harness with two leashes , which allows the climbers to secure themselves to the metal fixture and limit any fall. The cable and other fixtures, such as iron rungs (stemples), pegs, carved steps, and ladders and bridges, provide both footings and handholds, as well. This allows climbing on otherwise dangerous routes without

2461-711: Is a length of thinner approximately 4–8 mm static kernmantle rope , tied via a double fisherman's knot into closed loops of any size. Cord loops (also known as " cordelettes ") serve a wide variety of functions in rock climbing. Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5–6  mm cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using thicker approximately 7–8  mm cord. Several modern pieces of rope connecting equipment help climbers to securely attach items to

2568-435: Is a protected climbing route found in the Alps and certain other Alpine locations. The protection includes steel fixtures such as cables and railings to arrest the effect of any fall, which the climber can either hold onto or clip into using climbing protection . Some via ferrata can also include steel fixtures that provide aid in overcoming the obstacles encountered, including steel ladders and steel steps. A via ferrata

2675-504: Is broadly classed as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (known as the UIAA) was an important early body—and the only body pre-1995—in setting standards for climbing equipment. The UIAA Safety Commission continues to play a central worldwide role in this area. The European Committee for Standardization (CEN) is also an important major regulatory body for PPE, and which works closely with

2782-416: Is clipped into any given anchor or protection point), which have a reduced thickness of approximately 8–9  mm to limit the weight of the extra rope. Twin roping uses two thinner ropes, typically 7–8  mm in thickness, which are both clipped into each protection point. Twin roping is thus not used for reducing rope drag, but to have a backup rope on long climbs. Modern webbing (or "tape")

2889-456: Is made of strong tubular nylon or the even stronger spectra/dyneema material. Climbers use webbing that has been sewn using a certified standard of reinforced stitching into various lengths of closed loops called " slings " (or "runners"). They can be used in a wide range of situations, including wrapping around sections of rock for abseiling, creating belay anchors, or as passive protection, or tied to other equipment—often via carabiners—to create

2996-441: Is not being reused after a fall (particularly valuable in the case of rented equipment); the disadvantage is that it can be used only once, leaving the climber unprotected in case of a second fall. The other type of energy absorber is a metal braking device with a rope passing through it and attached to the harness. Previously popular, these have been largely withdrawn after the re-evaluation of via ferrata safety that occurred after

3103-628: Is possible to descend them. The origins of the via ferrata date back to the nineteenth century, but they are often associated with the First World War when several were built in the Dolomite mountain region of Italy to aid the movement of troops. Over 1000 via ferratas currently exist in the European Alps. The majority are found in Italy and Austria . Others are found in a number of European countries and

3210-448: Is the easiest to clip into and out of for example when leading a bolted sport climbing route but with the risk that the gate may unintentionally open. Climbing harnesses are used for connecting the rope to the climber via a "belay loop" on the harness. Harnesses are made of strong materials to specific strength guidelines that can withstand the load of a major fall. There are many types of harness designs and materials used depending on

3317-693: Is the personal anchor system (PAS), which is a section of rope or interconnected chains of slings, which are used to tie the harness to an anchor point such as a belay station. Traditionally, climbers would tie their harness to anchors using part of the climbing rope; however, the PAS has become popular as a way to avoid reducing the effective length of the climbing rope, and to use a more straightforward connection. Quickdraws are used by climbers to connect ropes to fixed points such as bolted anchors in sport climbing, or protection devices in traditional climbing. The quickdraw consists of two non-locking carabiners connected by

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3424-574: Is via Ferrata Dve veze (3 routes - B, C & C/D) and via Ferrata Zobor located in Nitra consiting of multiple routes ranging from A/B to D/E ratings. There are many via ferrata routes or route sections in Slovenia , though there is no definite list. In the western part ( Julian Alps ), a few have similar wartime origins to those in the Dolomites, all the rest being in disrepair or of later construction. Routes have evolved as protection has been added to trails in

3531-1002: The Apuseni Mountains . The mountain rescue service in Harghita county built the route called "Wild Ferenc" in 2016, near Red Lake . Several via ferrata routes scattered in Slovakia , with the largest concentration located in a ski and via ferrata area in Skalka , close to the town of Kremnica . Skalka has two co-located, free public sub-areas. One is called via ferrata Komin which has one E rated (60metres), one D rated, one C rated, one B rated, two A/B rated and one A rated ferratas and several boulders. Second area, Via Ferrata Land, has one F rated (45 metres), one E rated, one D rated, three B rated and one A rated ferattas. Other via ferrata routes can be found in Martinske Hole (B & C), Kysel or Liptov where

3638-548: The Brenta Dolomites , it is possible to link via ferratas together, staying overnight in mountain refuges, and so undertake extensive multi-day climbing tours at high elevations. In difficulty, via ferratas can range from routes that are little more than paths, albeit in dramatic and exposed situations, to very steep and strenuous routes, overhanging in parts, demanding the strength—if not the technique—of serious rock climbing. Generally, via ferratas are done in ascent, although it

3745-562: The Ecrins . This was shortly followed by the via ferratas at les Vigneaux just to the north (the easier route, La Voie du Colombier, is the most popular in France with 15,000 climbers per year) and the Aiguillette du Lauzet, a little further north (a more traditional high mountain via ferrata). There are now some 200 via ferratas in France, located throughout the French Alps, and with a few routes in

3852-921: The Hohe Tauern . Highly regarded routes are the Schlicker Klettersteig and Ilmspitz Klettersteig in the Stubai, the Tiroler Weg in the Otztal, and the Bella Vista Klettersteig on the south side of the Hohe Tauern in Carinthia. Other via ferratas in this area climb a number of 3000m summits. The Southern Limestone Alps in Carinthia and East Tirol are more traditional grounds for via ferratas. Several routes lie near

3959-637: The Massif Central , the Pyrenees and even in Corsica . They are well distributed across the six French grades, with handful each of F and ED, the bulk falling within the four middle classifications. As via ferratas have developed across the country, some have identified a distinct "french style, with metal rungs driven into improbable overhangs", spiced with wire bridges, and an emphasis on thrill seeking – although some criticise French routes as having an excess of iron climbing aids. Dramatic features underpin many of

4066-470: The UIAA standards) for strength, durability, and reliability, and must be certified and tested against such standards with individual pieces carrying such certification marks. The rock-climbing equipment needed varies materially depending on the type of rock climbing being undertaken. Starting from the least equipment-intensive type of climbing, the general equipment needs are as follows: Rock-climbing equipment

4173-905: The Wilder Kaiser , the Karwendel . The Dachstein mountains in Styria, in particular, are home to several notable via ferratas, including the Ramsauer Klettersteig, the Jubiläumsklettersteig, and on the northern side of the Dachstein, the Seewand Klettersteig, which is one of the hardest long routes in Austria. However, perhaps the highlight is the long and difficult Dachstein Super Ferrata, recently created by linking three routes, and possibly

4280-544: The body belay ), and nuts / hexes (replaced chockstones ). Modern equipment includes dynamic ropes , plyometric training tools, advanced spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) for protection, and advanced rope control devices such as self-locking devices (SLDs), progress capture devices (PCDs), and assisted braking devices (ABDs). Modern equipment uses advanced materials that are increasingly more durable, stronger, and lighter (e.g. spectra/dyneema and aluminum alloys ). The equipment must meet specific standards (e.g.

4387-419: The climbing rope . Modern devices enable climbers to perform tasks previously done manually, with greater control – in all conditions – and with less effort. Examples of replacements include the harness (replaced tying the rope around the waist), the carabiner (replaced many knots ), the descender/abseil device (replaced the dülfersitz ), the ascender (replaced the prusik knot ), the belay device (replaced

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4494-405: The dülfersitz abseil for descending, and the prusik knot for ascending), and these mechanical devices help with both control and safety in all conditions (e.g. wet or icy ropes). Ascenders (also called "jumars" or " crolls " after popular brands) are mechanical devices to enable a climber to move up a fixed rope , which is a static rope that is hanging from a fixed anchor. Ascenders perform

4601-607: The "sport" via ferratas in France; however, they are usually not as generously engineered with artificial holds so that climbers have to make contact with the rock and think about where the next foothold is. Via ferratas are now spread across Switzerland, but particularly in the central and western areas. Areas with a large number of via ferratas are the Bernese Oberland with 32 routes and the Valais with 39 routes. In central Switzerland there are several routes around Lake Lucerne , in

4708-1035: The "very difficult" category – difficulty tends to be more variable and protection tends to be less continuous than purpose built via ferrata elsewhere. Notable routes are the routes up Triglav from the Vrata valley (the Prag route, the Tomisek Route, and the Bamberg way), the Kopiščar "through the window" route up Prisank and the Slovenian way up Mangart . In 2010 the first sport via ferrata vas built near Vinska Gora , called Gonžarjeva peč , difficulty D/E. Others were added in recent years, e.g., Lisca (Cerje), difficulty B/C (top-most part D/E), Mojstrana (Grančišče), and Češka koča (Jezersko). There are at least seven via ferrata routes in Sweden . One on

4815-442: The 17th century. When the bandits came into conflict with the locals, they took refuge in the cave. This led to the cave also being called Rövargrottan , or Robber's Cave. The steep eastern slope of Skuleberget captures the heat of the sun and provides a warmer local climate and longer growing season than the surrounding area. This provides optimum growing conditions for plants that normally would not be able to thrive as far north as

4922-514: The 1970s and 80s development remained focused on traditional areas (the Dolomites and the Northern Limestone Alps). Routes were mostly developed by the climbing community often with the active involvement of one of the relevant Alpine Clubs (although there was occasional controversy and opposition to some added routes). In the 1990s and 2000s, development became more commercial and involved more organizations: via ferratas began to be seen as

5029-484: The Alps for centuries, helping to connect villages to their high pastures. Construction of what could be seen as the precursors of modern via ferratas dates back to the growth of Alpine exploration and tourism in the nineteenth century. In 1843, a route on the Dachstein was constructed under the direction of Friedrich Simony; it included a range of climbing aids with iron pins, hand hooks, carved footholds, and ropes. In 1869

5136-645: The Austro-Hungarians (supported by troops from Southern Germany) and the Italians fought a ferocious war in the mountains of the Dolomites; not only against each other but also against the hostile conditions. Both sides tried to gain control of the peaks to site observation posts and field guns. To help troops move about at high elevations in very difficult conditions, permanent lines were fixed to rock faces and ladders were installed so that troops could ascend steep faces. They also tried to create and control tunnels below

5243-518: The CAI began working on shortening and improving access to the climbing routes in the Brenta Dolomites , by installing artificial aids and protection. Natural lines and routes in the rock were linked up and a system of routes began to be developed, work continuing after the Second World War. The Via delle Bocchette was discovered by mountain walkers and gradually gained a classic reputation in its own right,

5350-453: The Dolomites are particularly renowned for their dramatic high mountain via ferratas. Several of these provide challenging ways to reach some of the summits in the range. Among the more notable routes are: Probably the most unusual via ferrata is the via ferrata Lagazuoi Tunnels. Fighting for control of Mount Lagazuoi in World War I, Austrian and Italian troops built a series of tunnels through

5457-528: The Dolomites. The initially weak Austro-Hungarian troops were strongly supported by local old and very young men ( Standschützen ) who simulated a very strong line of defense for the attacking Italians. Only later could local elite troops such as Kaiserjäger and Kaiserschützen be relocated from the Eastern Front towards Italy. Until the Flitsch-Tolmein offensive ( Battle of Caporetto ) in the autumn of 1917,

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5564-712: The Eggersteig (1903) and Wildauersteig (1911) in the Wilder Kaiser in Austria. In the Dolomites, the climbing path up the West ridge of the Marmolada (German: Marmolata) was installed in 1903, and the Possnecker Path up Piz Selva in the Sella Group was completed before the First World War. In 1910, Gustav Jahn and August Čepl, a Viennese master locksmith, built the Hans von Haid Steig in

5671-608: The High Coast-area. The summit has a layer of sediment and spruce , while the cliffs that were under sea level after the ice age were eroded by the glacial movements. Skuleberget, and the High Coast in general, have been mentioned in the earliest travel logs from the Ångermanland region, with the remnants of fishing huts, villages, and ships still preserved in the wilderness. Likely formed from erosion by waves thousands of years ago, Kungsgrottan , or King's Cave, has long been

5778-650: The Italian border (in the Carnic Alps ) which formed the front line in World War I and some via ferratas pass fortifications from the conflict, including the Weg der 26er which ascends the Hohe Warte , the highest peak of the range. There are more than 400 via ferratas in Italy, over half of them located in the Dolomites. As well as historic via ferratas based on World War I fortifications,

5885-547: The Petzl GriGri or the Wild Country Revo ). Some passive belay devices may also be used as descenders for abseiling . Indoor climbing walls can provide on-site fixed mechanical auto belay devices that enable the climber to top rope a route alone; more recent lead auto belay models allow the climber to also lead climb the route alone. Descenders (or abseil devices) enable a climber to abseil (or rappel) down

5992-650: The Petzl Traxion). The most complex use is for rope solo climbing , for which devices such as Wren's Silent Partner, the Petzel GriGri, and the Wild Country Revo have been used (rope solo climbing requires the widest range of rope devices including ascenders and descenders), or the more straightforward top rope solo climbing , for which the Petzl Micro Traxion and Camp Lift have been used. As discussed in types of climbing , rock climbing protection devices are mainly used in traditional climbing and in sport climbing, both of which can be done in single and multi-pitch formats. In addition, clean aid climbing also uses many of

6099-418: The Preiner Wall(1.783 m) of the Rax , East Austria. In 1914 the Dolomites was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which was part of the Central Powers during the First World War . In 1915, Italy joined the alliance of Britain, France, and Russia and declared war on the Central Powers. Austro-Hungarian troops were heavily committed in Russia and it immediately withdrew to a defensive line that ran through

6206-401: The Second World War: steel cables have replaced ropes, and iron ladders and metal rungs anchored into the rock have taken the place of the flimsy wooden structures used by the troops. Most of these routes are now maintained by the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI; Italian Alpine Club ) and the South Tyrol Alpine Club (AVS). In the 1930s, the Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini (SAT) together with

6313-423: The Tälli Klettersteig, the first real Swiss via ferrata (and still considered one of the best ), was created on the sheer southern faces of Gadmer Flue in the Urner Alps . Even then nothing much further happened for several years, but in this century there has been a rapid development of via ferratas, with over 150 now listed. According to the Rother guide, the Swiss via ferratas are typically similar in character to

6420-588: The UIAA Safety Commission through its CEN Working Group for Mountaineering Equipment. North America has fewer specific regulations as rock-climbing equipment as it is not classed as military or professional PPE and thus does not fall under the American Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulations; in effect, the UIAA and CEN have become the most important bodies for setting standards and regulating rock-climbing equipment worldwide, and most major manufacturers, and distributors, produce equipment certified and stamped with UIAA and CE marking . After

6527-436: The United Kingdom left the European Union, it adopted the UKCA certification in place of the CEN. Modern climbing ropes are 50–80 metres (160–260 ft) in length—the longer versions are for multi-pitch climbing—and have a kernmantle construction consisting of a core kern of twisted nylon fibers and an outer sheath mantle of woven colored coarse nylon fibers. They are either dynamic ropes , which can stretch to absorb

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6634-587: The Urner and Vierwaldstätter alps (15 and 17 routes respectively), with Engelberg developing into a notable centre for ferrata – here, the Fürenwand-Klettersteig is considered the "most spectacular". The range of routes is diverse: "action-packed" gorge routes (Alpine gorge in Saas Fee, Gorner gorge near Zermatt); panoramic routes onto 3000m peaks (Jegisteig [Jägihorn] and Mittaghorn Klettersteig, both near Saas Fee); high alpine challenges (Salbit-Kettenweg near Andermatt); and demanding athletic routes (Via ferrata San Salvatore near Lugano). The Rother guide considers that

6741-404: The cable with the carabiners, and a means of connecting to the harness. Modern lanyards use a "Y" tape configuration, which is currently the only type approved by UIAA , as it is simpler and safer to use and harder to use inappropriately. Using the Y lanyard, both arms should be attached to the steel line, although the system still functions if only one is clipped. However, some earlier lanyards use

6848-422: The case of a fall), or passive (i.e., they maintain a static position throughout). Fixed protection devices are permanent on-site anchors to which a lead climber can clip their rope – often via a quickdraw – when they are sport climbing ; they also can be used to create anchor points for belaying and abseiling. The main types are: Aid climbing uses several of the above devices but in a way that gives "aid" to

6955-422: The climber in ascending (e.g. pulling up on pitons and hooks). There are also a number of other pieces of equipment that are more exclusively associated with aid climbing. Rock climbers use several pieces of specialized clothing equipment including: Rock climbers may also use a range of other specialized equipment including: Various items of equipment are employed during climbing-specific training to strengthen

7062-701: The climbing rope, such as themselves via a modern climbing harness, or their various protection devices via modern carabiners and quickdraws. Before the invention of these pieces of rope-connecting equipment, climbers used alternative techniques such as looping the rope around the body instead of a harness (e.g. the body belay ) and looping the rope around various rocks as a form of protection. In addition to these early techniques, climbers also used various climbing knots to tie ropes and anchor points together, which are now all replaced by rope-connecting equipment such as carabiners. Carabiners are closed metal clips with spring-loaded gates that are used as connectors between

7169-423: The construction of several new ones - via ferratas have less of a tradition in Norway than they have in southern Europe. There is a via ferrata Tysso in Tyssedal , starting at the Norwegian Museum of Hydro Power and Industry and climbing along the very steep hydropower pipeline. Kyrkjeveggen ("the church wall") is situated in Fjæra in the fjord of Åkrafjorden . The route of Kyrkjeveggen elevates 500 meters to

7276-405: The core of which is the Via delle Bocchette system, consisting of several sections, including the Sentiero Bocchette Alte and the Sentiero delle Bocchette Centrali. The northern end of the range can be reached by lifts from Madonna di Campiglio, and it is possible to spend several days at high elevation on the network of via ferratas, staying at mountain huts. However, in accordance with the wishes of

7383-421: The eastern route to the peak of Kebnekaise , one in Funäsdalen , one in Kittelfjäll and four on Skuleberget in the High Coast area. In the Lake District , Honister's via ferrata is based on an old miners' track up the steep face of Fleetwith Pike . In the Yorkshire Dales , How Stean Gorge 's via ferrata was constructed in 2009 for recreational purposes and incorporates fixed beams and ladders over

7490-405: The energy of a falling climber, or are the less expensive but more hard-wearing static ropes , which are only for use in constant-load situations such as descending (e.g. abseiling) and ascending (e.g. jumaring ). Some climbers will use a single full-thickness climbing rope of approximately 9–11  mm , and some will use double ropes , or "half-ropes", to reduce rope drag (e.g. one rope

7597-429: The energy of the fall more effectively than a short rope length and so keep the climber and equipment intact. However, in spite of these equipment developments and the perception of via ferratas as being more secure and safe than rock climbing, people are more likely to injure themselves if they do fall, partly because of these elevated fall factors and partly because there are often rungs and steps on which to land. After

7704-779: The hardest technically in the world is in Austria: the "Arena" variant of the Bürgeralm-Panorama-Klettersteig in Styria . The Northern Limestone Alps, which run from near Vienna to the Swiss border, remain at the heart of Austrian klettersteig, with routes concentrated in key mountain groups: the Rax (where some of the oldest via ferratas are), the Hohe Wand , the Totes Gebirge , the Dachstein ,

7811-846: The latest route was finished in December 2021. In December, 2021 Baia de Fier received the National Record for the largest cluster of Acrobatic Via Ferrata in Romania. Another cluster of five routes is called "Astragalus" (named after the Astragalus species of herbs) and can be found near Șugău River (Bicaz) – these routes were opened in Spring 2017 and are subject to a fee. The mountain rescue service in Bihor county built two routes near Vadu Crișului and one route in Pietrele Negre, near Arieșeni commune, in

7918-470: The main attraction on Skuleberget, including to royalty as Kings Karl XI , Adolf Frederick , and Carl XVI Gustaf paid a number of visits to the cave in the centuries prior. Area folklore also tells of the cave being used as a haven for bands of robbers looking to attack travelers and local passers-by. According to the Nordic Museum's folk memory archive, robbers came to Skuleskogen by sea sometime during

8025-473: The more notable routes: long suspension bridges (59m at the via ferrata de la Grande Fistoire), wire "monkey" bridges (via ferrata de la Chal); routes into and across gorges (the "spectacular" via ferrata Gorges de la Durance); routes up and around waterfalls (via ferrata de l´Adret: la Passerelle) or simply overhanging and strenuous (the neighbouring via ferrata de l´Adret: Le Bastion). Other routes facilitate visits to historic sites. Les Mines du Grand Clôt near

8132-882: The most challenging via ferrata overall in Austria. Other notable routes in the Northern Limestone Alps are the Innsbrucker Klettersteig in the Karwendel and the Tajakante Klettersteig in the Mieminger Chain just to the east (both routes are in Tirol, near Innsbruck). The Central Eastern Alps have seen more recent development, with large numbers of routes in the Otztal and the Stubai Alps , and on either side of

8239-689: The most outstanding routes with regard to scenery and grading are the Braunwalder via ferrata in the eastern Swiss canton of Glarus and the Daubenhorn via ferrata near Leukerbad in the Valais. Also known as Leukerbadner Klettersteig (1&2), the latter is also the longest via ferrata in Switzerland. There are about 180 via ferratas in Germany , the easiest of which can be approached without special equipment. Many are in

8346-559: The most popular was built in 2010 near Malyovitsa hut. There are also 4 via ferratas in the Rhodopes - near Smolyan , Rakitovo and Trigrad . There is a via ferrata system in the town of Děčín . It has an easy shared starting section at the end of which you can choose a number of different routes with a variety of difficulties. There is also a via ferrata in Semily called Vodní Brána (Water Gate). Another system of three via ferratas forming

8453-456: The mountain is. The mountain claims one of the northern-most outposts of hazel and tilia cordata . Also found in the area are polygonatum odoratum , geranium robertianum , and asplenium trichomanes . Various tourist facilities are located in connection with the mountain, which is also part of the tourist destination Höga Kusten Turism (High Coast Tourism). Kramfors municipality 's largest alpine ski resort with three lifts, including

8560-403: The mountains. The aim was to tunnel close to the enemy and detonate explosives to destroy their fortifications. A via ferrata now uses these tunnels, allowing one to descend into and through the mountain. There are a great many other via ferratas in the Dolomites, including many shorter routes such as the easy Via ferrata Averau, or the difficult Via ferrata del Canalone. There are via ferratas in

8667-426: The need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices . Multi-pitch climbing , and the related big wall climbing , adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes . Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to give mechanical assistance to the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders ). Advances in equipment are a key part of the rock climbing history , starting with

8774-612: The original passive braking devices like "sticht plates" and the later "tubers/tubulars" (e.g. the original Black Diamond ATC, or the Petzl Reverso ). The range of modern belay devices also includes auto-block devices (e.g. the GiGi ) allowing the belay device to be attached to a separate anchor point (e.g. and not to the belayer, which is useful for bringing up the second-climber on multi-pitch routes), and active assisted-braking devices (ABDs) that will self-lock with sudden rope movements (e.g.

8881-602: The peaks to attack from there (see Mines on the Italian Front ). Trenches, dugouts, and other relics of the First World War can be found alongside many via ferratas. Since dangerous ammunition remains and the like can still be found today, warnings are given in the area of the former main battle line against digging and picking up old metal parts. There is an extensive open-air museum on 5 Torri, and around Lagazuoi, where very heavy fighting took place. This wartime network of via ferratas has been restored, although not until well after

8988-400: The quality of the protection. For many years, via ferratas were climbed using simple climbing equipment , namely carabiners fixed to short lengths of rope or slings attached to a chest (or sit) harness, on the basis that one would not fall very far. However, it gradually became apparent that these systems did not prevent serious injury. With only a short length of rope to absorb the energy of

9095-701: The region's climbers, the routes do not reach any major summits. There are over 150 via ferratas in Italy outside of the Dolomites, most of them constructed fairly recently. There are notable concentrations at the northern end of Lake Garda , in the Aosta valley , in the mountains east of Lake Como and in the Friuli region, split between the Carnic and Julian Alps . Some of the more notable routes are: France saw its first via ferrata in 1988 – La Grande Falaise in Freissinière in

9202-555: The risks of unprotected scrambling and climbing or the need for technical climbing equipment. They expand the opportunities for accessing difficult peaks as an alternative to rock climbing and mountaineering , both of which require higher skills and more specialized equipment. Via ferratas can vary in length from short routes taking less than an hour to long, demanding alpine routes covering significant distance and elevation (1,000 metres (3,300 ft) or more of ascent) and taking eight or more hours to complete. In certain areas, such as

9309-416: The river as well as rockface sections. Climbing protection Rock-climbing equipment varies with the specific type of climbing that is undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes , climbing chalk and optional crash pads . Sport climbing adds ropes , harnesses , belay devices , and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts . Traditional climbing adds

9416-475: The rope and various devices. Modern carabiners are made from a lightweight but strong aluminum alloy that can withstand the load of a fall. Carabiners come in various shapes, with the asymmetric/offset D-shape being the most common, and gate styles (e.g. a straight gate or a bent gate). A particular variation is whether the gate is locking, which gives extra security when belaying but makes the carabiner heavier and slightly tricker to clip into, or non-locking, which

9523-487: The rope in the event of an uncontrolled fall (e.g. the Petzl I'D S  [ de ] ). Heavy-duty descenders such as abseil racks are used for greater control and friction when carrying heavy loads and/or in very wet or icy conditions (e.g. big wall climbing and caving). The modern technique is to use a descender with a Personal Anchor System . Self-locking devices (SLDs), also called progress capture devices (PCDs), are

9630-449: The rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent the ascender device from accidentally falling off the rope, a locking carabiner is also used. Belay devices are mechanical friction-brake devices used to control the climbing rope(s) when belaying a climber. Their main purpose is to allow the rope to be locked off or fully braked with minimal effort when arresting a climber's fall. There are many kinds of belay devices, such as

9737-564: The safety requirements and conformity assessment procedures of the PPE regulation (EU) 2016/425. The requirements of the Regulation are supported by a European Harmonised Standard, EN 958. This standard was revised in 2017 to include several redesigned tests to prevent the type of failures involved in the 2012 accident. The "via ferrata set" comprises a lanyard and two carabiners. The lanyard consists of an energy-absorbing system, two arms that connect to

9844-418: The same basic function as friction or prusik knots made from cord but far less effort and concentration are needed to use them (e.g. tired climbers at high-altitude), they can handle much heavier loads (e.g. climbers with ruck-sacks), and they are more reliable in all conditions (e.g. on wet and icy ropes). The ascender uses an internal cam that allows the device to slide freely in one direction but tightly grip

9951-455: The seriousness of the route are often provided – the Kurt Schall guides use a five-level adjectival scale; Smith and Fletcher use a three-point scale A–C. The old Hofler/Werner guidebooks use a single general grade on an A-G scale. Most guidebooks provide some further information to help assess the nature of a route, such as the length of the route, the maximum height reached, and even a grade for

10058-668: The southern regions of Germany near the Austrian border. There are also many via ferratas in other areas – most notably in Saxon Switzerland . As opposed to via ferratas in the Dolomites, many routes were built in modern times and they have a sport character, and can be short and much more difficult than classics in the Dolomites. This small country has 15 vía ferratas. In 2019 Bosnia and Herzegovina got its first via ferrata on Velež . There are at least 7 vía ferratas in Bulgaria . One of

10165-474: The start of the 20th century in the Northern Limestone Alps . For many years route development remained focused in this area and it is only recently that via ferratas have been built across the Austrian Alps. As a broad generalisation, routes in Austria fall somewhere between the long mountain routes of the Dolomites and the shorter sporting routes of France. That said, the via ferrata currently (2012) considered

10272-548: The summit. At 286 metres (938 ft) above sea-level, Skuleberget has the worlds highest coastline. The mountain, as part of the large High Coast region, is considered a World Heritage Site . During the last ice age , the area was repeatedly covered by continental ice sheet, specifically, the Fenno-Scandian ice sheet . Approximately 10,500 years ago, when the ice began melting, most of the High Coast (Swedish: Höga kusten )

10379-403: The terms given to the broader class of rope devices that allow the climbing rope to move more freely in one direction but will lock quickly if the rope tries to move in the opposite direction. Their basic action means that several can also be used as emergency ascenders or assisted-belaying devices (ABDs), but they come in a broad range for a variety of uses (e.g. as a hauling or rescue pulley, like

10486-792: The top. There is also one in Hemsedal . The most known is the Via Ferrata Loen in Stryn . It opened in 2012. This track contains the dramatic hanging bridge, Gjølmunnebrua . Trondheim boasts a via ferrata opposite the Trondheimsfjord on the Munken mountain, with views of the city. Since 2015 Straumsfjell in Setesdal is Northern Europe's longest via ferrata. The one in Lom starts from 380 m MSL to end in 1524 m MSL,

10593-432: The traditional climbing protection devices. Temporary protection devices (also known as pro , gear or the rack ), provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock to which a lead climber can clip their rope (via a quickdraw) when traditional climbing ; they also can be used for anchor points for belaying and abseiling. The devices are categorized as being active (i.e. they dynamically move or adjust in

10700-524: The type of climbing undertaken. Examples include minimal "sit" harnesses for sport climbing as they require little in the way of gear-carrying loops, lightweight and detachable leg-loop harnesses for alpine climbing that fit around heaving winter clothing, padded harnesses for big wall climbing that give comfort for hanging belays and abseils, and chest/full-body harnesses for children or carrying heavy loads. Lanyards (or "teather", or "via ferrata set") are much longer versions of quickdraws that attach from

10807-506: The valleys around the Dolomites, such as Via ferrata Burrone Giovannelli near Mezzocorona , in the Etschtal (Val d'Adige) which ascends a gorge. Brenta To the west of the main Dolomites, on the other side of the A22/E45 road, are the smaller Brenta Dolomites , which are compact but dramatic, and rise above the town of Madonna di Campiglio . The Brenta contain a dense network of via ferratas,

10914-541: The village of La Grave in the Hautes Alpes department takes the climber up a sheer cliff where a lead mine operated with little success between 1807 and 1925. This route is illustrated with sign boards in English and French telling the story of the struggle to extract small amounts of ore in very difficult conditions. Another via near Lumbin in the department of Isère , the Vire des Lavandières, passes an old section of route called

11021-405: The way. The main type of energy absorber in use today is a tearing energy absorber. This consists of a length of webbing specially sewn together to allow progressive tearing in case of a fall. Such devices can only be used once to arrest a serious fall and will exhibit visible damage afterward. The advantages of this type of absorber are that it is compact and that it can be easily verified that it

11128-585: The Échelle des Maquisards built in 1943 and used by resistance fighters during the Second World War. Responsibility for maintaining via ferratas in France lies with the commune in which the via is situated. Maintenance can be costly depending on location, with vias at higher elevations being subject to damage by snow and ice through the winter months. Some communes have decided to fund this maintenance by charging an admission fee, but this applies to very few vias and most remain free of charge. The first via ferrata in Spain

11235-503: Was built in 1954 (Canal del Palomo, Huesca , Grading D). After that, it took longer before a sporty route was created in 1993 at Montserrat in Catalonia . Today there may be around 200 via ferratas in Spain. Most of them are located in Catalonia, Aragon , Comunidad Valenciana and Andalusia (around Ronda and Malaga ). Due to the weather, they can mostly be used all year round. Only

11342-588: Was constructed in 1988 (Via Ferrata de la Grande Falaise, Freissinières , Grading C/D) While high mountain via ferratas have continued to be developed, the modern era has seen the rise of more "sporting" routes, sometimes closer to the valley and often more challenging in nature, with severely steep sections and requiring high strength. Routes have been built in dramatic locations, alongside waterfalls or in canyons. Other routes include features such as wire bridges and even zip wires, designed to increase their appeal to visitors. Climbing via ferratas came to be recognised as

11449-481: Was covered by the Mastogloia Sea , with only the highest mountain summits cresting above the water as islands. After the ice receded to modern levels, the landmass started to rise up to 10 cm (3.9 in) every year. The once nine-meter-high island today has the world's highest marine boundary/coastline. Due to Skuleberget's history as a prehistoric island, the mountain is one of few till -capped mountains in

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