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114-522: Prior to his career as a winemaker, following a period as a surfer , Eben Sadie traveled and worked in several of the world's wine regions, including Germany , Austria , Italy , Oregon and Burgundy . Having returned to South Africa, Sadie found work under Charles Back at The Spice Route in 1998, eventually becoming the chief winemaker and a resource Back described as "national asset for the South African wine industry". The solo venture The Sadie Family

228-580: A balsilla caballero , or sitting stubbornly cutting the waves of the sea, which is rough where they fish, they looked like the Tritons, or Neptunes, who paint upon the water. In Polynesian culture , surfing was an important activity. Modern surfing as we know it today is thought to have originated in Hawaii . The history of surfing dates to c.  AD 400 in Polynesia, where Polynesians began to make their way to

342-410: A halocline . If a zone undergoes a strong, vertical chemistry gradient with depth, it contains a chemocline . Temperature and salinity control ocean water density. Colder and saltier water is denser, and this density plays a crucial role in regulating the global water circulation within the ocean. The halocline often coincides with the thermocline, and the combination produces a pronounced pycnocline ,

456-489: A mid-ocean ridge , which creates a long mountain range beneath the ocean. Together they form the global mid-oceanic ridge system that features the longest mountain range in the world. The longest continuous mountain range is 65,000 km (40,000 mi). This underwater mountain range is several times longer than the longest continental mountain range – the Andes . Oceanographers state that less than 20% of

570-412: A surfboard ; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing. Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding , where a surfer rides the wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee (one foot and one knee on the board), or sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats) and using foils. Body surfing , in which

684-530: A "flat spell", when no waves are available. Completely artificial wave pools aim to solve that problem by controlling all the elements that go into creating perfect surf, however there are only a handful of wave pools that can simulate good surfing waves, owing primarily to construction and operation costs and potential liability. Most wave pools generate waves that are too small and lack the power necessary to surf. The Seagaia Ocean Dome , located in Miyazaki, Japan,

798-581: A break from their boarding school, St. Matthew's Hall in San Mateo , and came to cool off in Santa Cruz, California . There, David Kawānanakoa , Edward Keliʻiahonui and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on custom-shaped redwood boards, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn. In 1890, the pioneer in agricultural education John Wrightson reputedly became

912-579: A gentle breeze on a pond causes ripples to form. A stronger gust blowing over the ocean causes larger waves as the moving air pushes against the raised ridges of water. The waves reach their maximum height when the rate at which they are travelling nearly matches the speed of the wind. In open water, when the wind blows continuously as happens in the Southern Hemisphere in the Roaring Forties , long, organized masses of water called swell roll across

1026-469: A large company of naked natives of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing." References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa , where surfing was called fa'ase'e or se'egalu (see Augustin Krämer, The Samoa Islands ), and Tonga , far pre-dating the practice of surfing by Hawaiians and eastern Polynesians by over

1140-437: A layer of water against a smooth structure mimicking the shape of a breaking wave. Because of the velocity of the rushing water, the wave and the surfer can remain stationary while the water rushes by under the surfboard. Artificial waves of this kind provide the opportunity to try surfing and learn its basics in a moderately small and controlled environment near or far from locations with natural surf. Standup surfing begins when

1254-411: A more turbulent part of the wave (often completely submerged by whitewater). In contrast, surfers who instead ride a hydrofoil feel substantially less drag and may ride unbroken waves in the open ocean. Three major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are stand-up paddling , long boarding and short boarding with several major differences including the board design and length, the riding style and

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1368-473: A new generation of women surfers. In January 1939, Hawkins was appointed head of the women’s auxiliary group of the Santa Monica Paddle Club and rose to vice president by January 1940 . Her surfing peers frequently lauded her achievements, with "Whitey" Harrison describing her as "the best tandem rider." Throughout her career, Hawkins exemplified grace and athleticism, leaving an indelible mark on

1482-459: A person riding a wave using a board, regardless of the stance. There are several types of boards. The Moche of Peru would often surf on reed craft, while the native peoples of the Pacific surfed waves on alaia , paipo, and other such water craft. Ancient cultures often surfed on their belly and knees, while the modern-day definition of surfing most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing on

1596-451: A result, the photic zone is the most biodiverse and the source of the food supply which sustains most of the ocean ecosystem . Ocean photosynthesis also produces half of the oxygen in the Earth's atmosphere. Light can only penetrate a few hundred more meters; the rest of the deeper ocean is cold and dark (these zones are called mesopelagic and aphotic zones). The continental shelf is where

1710-498: A seaweed spray. After, grapes are hand-sorted, stored in open wooden vats, twice daily trampled for a month, and then moved by buckets to a traditional basket press . Instead of using pumps to move the wine into barrels, gravity is applied. For the flagship wine Columella, there is a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre from eight different vineyard sites, and for Palladius there is blended Chenin blanc , Grenache blanc , Roussanne , Marsanne , Viognier , Clairette and Chardonnay . There

1824-496: A shallow area and this, coupled with a low pressure system, can raise the surface of the ocean dramatically above a typical high tide. The average depth of the oceans is about 4 km. More precisely the average depth is 3,688 meters (12,100 ft). Nearly half of the world's marine waters are over 3,000 meters (9,800 ft) deep. "Deep ocean," which is anything below 200 meters (660 ft), covers about 66% of Earth's surface. This figure does not include seas not connected to

1938-403: A surfer (or two in tandem surfing ), uses a board to ride on the forward section, or face, of a moving wave of water , which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found on ocean shores, but can also be found as standing waves in the open ocean, in lakes , in rivers in the form of a tidal bore , or wave pools . The term surfing refers to

2052-455: A surfing location, but also dissipate wave energy and shelter the coastline from erosion. Ships such as Seli 1 that have accidentally stranded on sandy bottoms, can create sandbanks that give rise to good waves. An artificial reef known as Chevron Reef was constructed in El Segundo, California in hopes of creating a new surfing area. However, the reef failed to produce any quality waves and

2166-653: A thousand years. West Africans (e.g., Ghana , Ivory Coast , Liberia , Senegal ) and western Central Africans (e.g., Cameroon ) independently developed the skill of surfing. Amid the 1640s CE, Michael Hemmersam provided an account of surfing in the Gold Coast : “the parents ‘tie their children to boards and throw them into the water.’” In 1679 CE, Barbot provided an account of surfing among Elmina children in Ghana: “children at Elmina learned “to swim, on bits of boards, or small bundles of rushes, fasten’d under their stomachs, which

2280-539: A wave as it travels since a wave reaching the end of a fetch behaves as if the wind died. During summer, heavy swells are generated when cyclones form in the tropics. Tropical cyclones form over warm seas, so their occurrence is influenced by El Niño and La Niña cycles. Their movements are unpredictable. Surf travel and some surf camps offer surfers access to remote, tropical locations, where tradewinds ensure offshore conditions. Since winter swells are generated by mid-latitude cyclones , their regularity coincides with

2394-403: A wave-cut platform develops at the foot of the cliff and this has a protective effect, reducing further wave-erosion. Material worn from the margins of the land eventually ends up in the sea. Here it is subject to attrition as currents flowing parallel to the coast scour out channels and transport sand and pebbles away from their place of origin. Sediment carried to the sea by rivers settles on

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2508-537: A way to entice visitors to his own budding resort community south of Venice where he had heavily invested in real estate, he hired Freeth as a lifeguard and to give surfing exhibitions in front of the Hotel Redondo . Another native Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku , spread surfing to both the U.S. and Australia, riding the waves after displaying the swimming prowess that won him Olympic gold medals in 1912 and 1920. Mary Ann Hawkins, inspired by Duke Kahanamoku's surfing during

2622-406: A zone undergoes dramatic changes in temperature with depth, it contains a thermocline , a distinct boundary between warmer surface water and colder deep water. In tropical regions, the thermocline is typically deeper compared to higher latitudes. Unlike polar waters , where solar energy input is limited, temperature stratification is less pronounced, and a distinct thermocline is often absent. This

2736-439: Is a bay , a small bay with a narrow inlet is a cove and a large bay may be referred to as a gulf . Coastlines are influenced by several factors including the strength of the waves arriving on the shore, the gradient of the land margin, the composition and hardness of the coastal rock, the inclination of the off-shore slope and the changes of the level of the land due to local uplift or submergence. Normally, waves roll towards

2850-700: Is a good diversion to the spectators.” James Alexander provided an account of surfing in Accra , Ghana in 1834 CE: “From the beach, meanwhile, might be seen boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under their stomachs. They waited for a surf; and came rolling like a cloud on top of it. But I was told that sharks occasionally dart in behind the rocks and ‘yam’ them.” Thomas Hutchinson provided an account of surfing in southern Cameroon in 1861: “Fishermen rode small dugouts ‘no more than six feet in length, fourteen to sixteen inches in width, and from four to six inches in depth.’” In July 1885, three teenage Hawaiian princes took

2964-738: Is about −2 °C (28 °F). In all parts of the ocean, deep ocean temperatures range between −2 °C (28 °F) and 5 °C (41 °F). Constant circulation of water in the ocean creates ocean currents . Those currents are caused by forces operating on the water, such as temperature and salinity differences, atmospheric circulation (wind), and the Coriolis effect . Tides create tidal currents, while wind and waves cause surface currents. The Gulf Stream , Kuroshio Current , Agulhas Current and Antarctic Circumpolar Current are all major ocean currents. Such currents transport massive amounts of water, gases, pollutants and heat to different parts of

3078-633: Is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts the size and direction of swells around the globe. Swell regularity varies across the globe and throughout the year. During winter, heavy swells are generated in the mid-latitudes, when the North and South polar fronts shift toward the Equator . The predominantly Westerly winds generate swells that advance Eastward, so waves tend to be largest on West coasts during winter months. However, an endless train of mid-latitude cyclones cause

3192-458: Is also produced a bush-vine white varietal wine from Chenin blanc named Mrs Kirsten's Old Vines. From Sequillo Cellars, there are produced the Sequillo Red and Sequillo White. The red consists of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache , and the white is composed from Chenin blanc, Grenache blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne. Surfing Surfing is a surface water sport in which an individual,

3306-444: Is an important reference point for oceanography and geography, particularly as mean sea level . The ocean surface has globally little, but measurable topography , depending on the ocean's volumes. The ocean surface is a crucial interface for oceanic and atmospheric processes. Allowing interchange of particles, enriching the air and water, as well as grounds by some particles becoming sediments . This interchange has fertilized life in

3420-411: Is customarily divided into five principal oceans – listed below in descending order of area and volume: The ocean fills Earth's oceanic basins . Earth's oceanic basins cover different geologic provinces of Earth's oceanic crust as well as continental crust . As such it covers mainly Earth's structural basins , but also continental shelfs . In mid-ocean, magma is constantly being thrust through

3534-399: Is due to the fact that surface waters in polar latitudes are nearly as cold as deeper waters. Below the thermocline, water everywhere in the ocean is very cold, ranging from −1 °C to 3 °C. Because this deep and cold layer contains the bulk of ocean water, the average temperature of the world ocean is 3.9 °C. If a zone undergoes dramatic changes in salinity with depth, it contains

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3648-427: Is having just one foot near the front, with five toes off the edge. Cutback: Generating speed down the line and then turning back to reverse direction. Snap: Quickly turning along the face or top of the wave, almost as if snapping the board back towards the wave. Typically done on steeper waves. Blowtail: Pushing the tail of the board out of the back of the wave so that the fins leave the water. Floater: Suspending

3762-452: Is irregular, unevenly dominating the Earth's surface . This leads to the distinction of the Earth's surface into a water and land hemisphere , as well as the division of the ocean into different oceans. Seawater covers about 361,000,000 km (139,000,000 sq mi) and the ocean's furthest pole of inaccessibility , known as " Point Nemo ", in a region known as spacecraft cemetery of

3876-454: Is produced and magma is forced up creating underwater mountains, some of which may form chains of volcanic islands near to deep trenches. Near some of the boundaries between the land and sea, the slightly denser oceanic plates slide beneath the continental plates and more subduction trenches are formed. As they grate together, the continental plates are deformed and buckle causing mountain building and seismic activity. Every ocean basin has

3990-407: Is pushed across the surface of the ocean by the wind, but this represents a transfer of energy and not horizontal movement of water. As waves approach land and move into shallow water , they change their behavior. If approaching at an angle, waves may bend ( refraction ) or wrap around rocks and headlands ( diffraction ). When the wave reaches a point where its deepest oscillations of the water contact

4104-423: Is reflected back out of the water. Red light is most easily absorbed and thus does not reach great depths, usually to less than 50 meters (164 ft). Blue light, in comparison, can penetrate up to 200 meters (656 ft). Second, water molecules and very tiny particles in ocean water preferentially scatter blue light more than light of other colors. Blue light scattering by water and tiny particles happens even in

4218-467: Is sometimes referred to as the World Ocean, global ocean or the great ocean . The concept of a continuous body of water with relatively unrestricted exchange between its components is critical in oceanography . The word ocean comes from the figure in classical antiquity , Oceanus ( / oʊ ˈ s iː ə n ə s / ; Ancient Greek : Ὠκεανός Ōkeanós , pronounced [ɔːkeanós] ),

4332-411: Is the angle between the wave front and the horizontal projection of the point of break over time, which in a regular break is most easily represented by the line of white water left after the break. A break that closes out, or breaks all at once along its length, leaves white water parallel to the wave front, and has a peel angle of 0°. This is unsurfable as it would require infinite speed to progress along

4446-405: Is the primary component of Earth's hydrosphere and is thereby essential to life on Earth. The ocean influences climate and weather patterns, the carbon cycle , and the water cycle by acting as a huge heat reservoir . Ocean scientists split the ocean into vertical and horizontal zones based on physical and biological conditions. The pelagic zone is the open ocean's water column from

4560-612: The 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan. The first gold medalists of the Tokyo 2020 surfing men and women's competitions were, respectively, the Brazilian Ítalo Ferreira and the American from Hawaii, Carissa Moore . About three to five thousand years ago, cultures in ancient Peru fished in kayak-like watercraft ( mochica ) made of reeds that the fishermen surfed back to shore. The Moche culture used

4674-631: The Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands . They brought many of their customs with them including playing in the surf on Paipo (belly/body) boards. It was in Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing upright on boards was invented. Various European explorers witnessed surfing in Polynesia . Surfing may have been observed by British explorers at Tahiti in 1767. Samuel Wallis and

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4788-670: The North Sea or the Red Sea . There is no sharp distinction between seas and oceans, though generally seas are smaller, and are often partly (as marginal seas ) or wholly (as inland seas ) bordered by land. The contemporary concept of the World Ocean was coined in the early 20th century by the Russian oceanographer Yuly Shokalsky to refer to the continuous ocean that covers and encircles most of Earth. The global, interconnected body of salt water

4902-472: The South Pacific Ocean , at 48°52.6′S 123°23.6′W  /  48.8767°S 123.3933°W  / -48.8767; -123.3933  ( Point Nemo ) . This point is roughly 2,688 km (1,670 mi) from the nearest land. There are different customs to subdivide the ocean and are adjourned by smaller bodies of water such as, seas , gulfs , bays , bights , and straits . The ocean

5016-578: The Thames Barrier is designed to protect London from a storm surge, while the failure of the dykes and levees around New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina created a humanitarian crisis in the United States. Most of the ocean is blue in color, but in some places the ocean is blue-green, green, or even yellow to brown. Blue ocean color is a result of several factors. First, water preferentially absorbs red light, which means that blue light remains and

5130-576: The caballito de totora (little horse of totora ), with archaeological evidence showing its use around 200 CE. An early description of the Inca surfing in Callao was documented by Jesuit missionary José de Acosta in his 1590 publication Historia natural y moral de las Indias , writing: It is true to see them go fishing in Callao de Lima, was for me a thing of great recreation, because there were many and each one in

5244-406: The coastline and structure of the world ocean. A global ocean has existed in one form or another on Earth for eons. Since its formation the ocean has taken many conditions and shapes with many past ocean divisions and potentially at times covering the whole globe. During colder climatic periods, more ice caps and glaciers form, and enough of the global water supply accumulates as ice to lessen

5358-420: The floater (riding on top of the breaking curl of the wave), and off the lip (banking off crest of the breaking wave). A newer addition to surfing is the progression of the air, whereby a surfer propels off the wave entirely up into the air and then successfully lands the board back on the wave. The tube ride is considered to be the ultimate maneuver in surfing. As a wave breaks, if the conditions are ideal,

5472-498: The isobars to become undulated, redirecting swells at regular intervals toward the tropics. East coasts also receive heavy winter swells when low-pressure cells form in the sub-tropics, where slow moving highs inhibit their movement. These lows produce a shorter fetch than polar fronts, however, they can still generate heavy swells since their slower movement increases the duration of a particular wind direction. The variables of fetch and duration both influence how long wind acts over

5586-591: The ocean floor , they begin to slow down. This pulls the crests closer together and increases the waves' height , which is called wave shoaling . When the ratio of the wave's height to the water depth increases above a certain limit, it " breaks ", toppling over in a mass of foaming water. This rushes in a sheet up the beach before retreating into the ocean under the influence of gravity. Earthquakes , volcanic eruptions or other major geological disturbances can set off waves that can lead to tsunamis in coastal areas which can be very dangerous. The ocean's surface

5700-442: The Earth's biosphere . Oceanic evaporation , as a phase of the water cycle, is the source of most rainfall (about 90%), causing a global cloud cover of 67% and a consistent oceanic cloud cover of 72%. Ocean temperatures affect climate and wind patterns that affect life on land. One of the most dramatic forms of weather occurs over the oceans: tropical cyclones (also called "typhoons" and "hurricanes" depending upon where

5814-452: The Moon are 20x stronger than the Moon's tidal forces on the Earth.) The primary effect of lunar tidal forces is to bulge Earth matter towards the near and far sides of the Earth, relative to the moon. The "perpendicular" sides, from which the Moon appears in line with the local horizon, experience "tidal troughs". Since it takes nearly 25 hours for the Earth to rotate under the Moon (accounting for

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5928-403: The Moon's 28 day orbit around Earth), tides thus cycle over a course of 12.5 hours. However, the rocky continents pose obstacles for the tidal bulges, so the timing of tidal maxima may not actually align with the Moon in most localities on Earth, as the oceans are forced to "dodge" the continents. Timing and magnitude of tides vary widely across the Earth as a result of the continents. Thus, knowing

6042-468: The Moon's gravity, oceanic tides are also substantially modulated by the Sun's tidal forces, by the rotation of the Earth, and by the shape of the rocky continents blocking oceanic water flow. (Tidal forces vary more with distance than the "base" force of gravity: the Moon's tidal forces on Earth are more than double the Sun's, despite the latter's much stronger gravitational force on Earth. Earth's tidal forces upon

6156-400: The Moon's position does not allow a local to predict tide timings, instead requiring precomputed tide tables which account for the continents and the Sun, among others. During each tidal cycle, at any given place the tidal waters rise to maximum height, high tide, before ebbing away again to the minimum level, low tide. As the water recedes, it gradually reveals the foreshore , also known as

6270-643: The Okeanos is represented with a dragon-tail on some early Greek vases. Scientists believe that a sizable quantity of water would have been in the material that formed Earth. Water molecules would have escaped Earth's gravity more easily when it was less massive during its formation. This is called atmospheric escape . During planetary formation , Earth possibly had magma oceans . Subsequently, outgassing , volcanic activity and meteorite impacts , produced an early atmosphere of carbon dioxide , nitrogen and water vapor , according to current theories. The gases and

6384-490: The Palladius was in 2002 with a production of seven barrels, just under 2000 bottles. The Sadie Family has enjoyed success beyond any other modern South African wine producer as Columella is the most highly rated South African wine, and the only to achieve a 95-point rating by US wine magazine Wine Spectator . In defense of Columella's high retail price per bottle, Sadie states the wine is unusually costly to make. Since 2003,

6498-706: The World Ocean, such as the Caspian Sea . The deepest region of the ocean is at the Mariana Trench , located in the Pacific Ocean near the Northern Mariana Islands . The maximum depth has been estimated to be 10,971 meters (35,994 ft). The British naval vessel Challenger II surveyed the trench in 1951 and named the deepest part of the trench the " Challenger Deep ". In 1960, the Trieste successfully reached

6612-421: The amounts in other parts of the water cycle. The reverse is true during warm periods. During the last ice age, glaciers covered almost one-third of Earth's land mass with the result being that the oceans were about 122 m (400 ft) lower than today. During the last global "warm spell," about 125,000 years ago, the seas were about 5.5 m (18 ft) higher than they are now. About three million years ago

6726-479: The atmosphere are thought to have accumulated over millions of years. After Earth's surface had significantly cooled, the water vapor over time would have condensed, forming Earth's first oceans. The early oceans might have been significantly hotter than today and appeared green due to high iron content. Geological evidence helps constrain the time frame for liquid water existing on Earth. A sample of pillow basalt (a type of rock formed during an underwater eruption)

6840-531: The best waves in the world. Surfers from around the world flock to breaks like Backdoor, Waimea Bay , and Pipeline . However, there are still many popular surf spots around the world: Teahupo'o , located off the coast of Tahiti ; Mavericks , California , United States; Cloudbreak, Tavarua Island, Fiji ; Superbank, Gold Coast, Australia. In 2016 surfing was added by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) as an Olympic sport to begin at

6954-474: The board atop the wave. Very popular on small waves. Ocean The ocean is the body of salt water that covers approximately 70.8% of Earth . In English , the term ocean also refers to any of the large bodies of water into which the world ocean is conventionally divided. The following names describe five different areas of the ocean: Pacific , Atlantic , Indian , Antarctic/Southern , and Arctic . The ocean contains 97% of Earth's water and

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7068-407: The bottom of the trench, manned by a crew of two men. Oceanographers classify the ocean into vertical and horizontal zones based on physical and biological conditions. The pelagic zone consists of the water column of the open ocean, and can be divided into further regions categorized by light abundance and by depth. The ocean zones can be grouped by light penetration into (from top to bottom):

7182-469: The breaking formation of the wave. Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break. For example, there are beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks. The most important influence on wave shape is the topography of the seabed directly behind and immediately beneath the breaking wave. Each break is different since each location's underwater topography is unique. At beach breaks, sandbanks change shape from week to week. Surf forecasting

7296-433: The breaking part (whitewash) of the wave, in the so-called 'pocket'. It is difficult for beginners to catch the wave at all. Surfers' skills are tested by their ability to control their board in difficult conditions, riding challenging waves, and executing maneuvers such as strong turns and cutbacks (turning board back to the breaking wave) and carving (a series of strong back-to-back maneuvers). More advanced skills include

7410-652: The crew members of HMS  Dolphin were the first Britons to visit the island in June of that year. Another candidate is the botanist Joseph Banks who was part of the first voyage of James Cook on HMS  Endeavour , arriving on Tahiti on 10 April 1769. Lieutenant James King was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii, when he was completing the journals of Captain James Cook (upon Cook's death in 1779). In Herman Melville 's 1849 novel Mardi , based on his experiences in Polynesia earlier that decade,

7524-744: The eclectic interests of land developer Abbot Kinney (founder of Venice of America, now Venice, California) helped bring Freeth to California. Freeth had sought the help of the Hawaii Promotion Committee (HPC) in Honolulu to sponsor him on a trip to California to give surfing exhibitions. The HPC arranged through their contacts in Los Angeles to secure a contract for Freeth to perform at Venice of America in July, 1907. Later that year, land baron Henry E. Huntington brought surfing to Redondo Beach . Looking for

7638-501: The elder of the Titans in classical Greek mythology . Oceanus was believed by the ancient Greeks and Romans to be the divine personification of an enormous river encircling the world. The concept of Ōkeanós has an Indo-European connection. Greek Ōkeanós has been compared to the Vedic epithet ā-śáyāna-, predicated of the dragon Vṛtra-, who captured the cows/rivers. Related to this notion,

7752-499: The face fast enough to keep up with the break. A break which advances along the wave face more slowly will leave a line of new white water at an angle to the line of the wave face. Where: In most cases a peel angle less than 25° is too fast to surf. The type of break depends on shoaling rate. Breaking waves can be classified as four basic types: spilling (ξ b <0.4), plunging (0.4<ξ b <2), collapsing (ξ b >2) and surging (ξ b >2), and which type occurs depends on

7866-414: The first British surfer when instructed by two Hawaiian students at his college. George Freeth (1883–1919), of English and Native Hawaiian descent, is generally credited as the person who had done more than anyone else to renew interest in surfing at Waikiki in the early twentieth century after the sport had declined in popularity in Hawaii during the latter half of the nineteenth century. In 1907,

7980-412: The formation of unusually high rogue waves . Most waves are less than 3 m (10 ft) high and it is not unusual for strong storms to double or triple that height. Rogue waves, however, have been documented at heights above 25 meters (82 ft). The top of a wave is known as the crest, the lowest point between waves is the trough and the distance between the crests is the wavelength. The wave

8094-409: The history of women’s surfing and paddleboarding. In 1975, a professional tour started. That year Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer. Swell is generated when the wind blows consistently over a large space of open water, called the wind's fetch . The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind, and the length of its fetch and duration. Because of these factors,

8208-421: The interface between water and air is called swell – a term used in sailing , surfing and navigation . These motions profoundly affect ships on the surface of the ocean and the well-being of people on those ships who might suffer from sea sickness . Wind blowing over the surface of a body of water forms waves that are perpendicular to the direction of the wind. The friction between air and water caused by

8322-482: The intertidal zone. The difference in height between the high tide and low tide is known as the tidal range or tidal amplitude. When the sun and moon are aligned (full moon or new moon), the combined effect results in the higher "spring tides", while the sun and moon misaligning (half moons) result in lesser tidal ranges. In the open ocean tidal ranges are less than 1 meter, but in coastal areas these tidal ranges increase to more than 10 meters in some areas. Some of

8436-650: The kind of wave that is ridden. In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing ), a motorized water vehicle such as a personal watercraft , tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large wave's speed, which is generally a higher speed than a self-propelled surfer can produce. Surfing-related sports such as paddle boarding and sea kayaking that are self-propelled by hand paddles do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kite surfing and windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these platforms may also be used to ride waves. Recently with

8550-458: The label Sequillo Cellars was started by Eben Sadie in partnership with Cornel Spies, to some degree considered The Sadie Family's more affordable second wines . Eben Sadie stopped producing this wine in 2014. He is now focusing on The Sadie Family Wines exclusively. Eben Sadie was also involved with Spanish wine producer Terroir Al Límit in the village of Torroja in Priorat , Catalonia . This

8664-710: The largest tidal ranges in the world occur in the Bay of Fundy and Ungava Bay in Canada, reaching up to 16 meters. Other locations with record high tidal ranges include the Bristol Channel between England and Wales, Cook Inlet in Alaska, and the Río Gallegos in Argentina. Tides are not to be confused with storm surges , which can occur when high winds pile water up against the coast in

8778-493: The late 1920s, developed a lifelong passion for surfing. In 1935, her family relocated to Santa Monica , providing her with opportunities to further immerse herself in surfing and paddleboarding. On September 12, 1936, Hawkins achieved a historic milestone by winning California’s first women’s paddleboard race at the Santa Monica Breakwater. She continued to dominate the sport, winning numerous competitions, including

8892-466: The majority of Earth's surface. It includes the Pacific , Atlantic , Indian , Southern/Antarctic , and Arctic oceans. As a general term, "the ocean" and "the sea" are often interchangeable. Strictly speaking, a "sea" is a body of water (generally a division of the world ocean) partly or fully enclosed by land. The word "sea" can also be used for many specific, much smaller bodies of seawater, such as

9006-431: The narrator describes the "Rare Sport at Ohonoo" (title of chap. 90): “For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in length; the width of a man's body; convex on both sides; highly polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation; invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling of the owner.” When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, "In one place, we came upon

9120-408: The ocean faces many environmental threats, such as marine pollution , overfishing , and the effects of climate change . Those effects include ocean warming , ocean acidification and sea level rise . The continental shelf and coastal waters are most affected by human activity. The terms "the ocean" or "the sea" used without specification refer to the interconnected body of salt water covering

9234-423: The ocean meets dry land. It is more shallow, with a depth of a few hundred meters or less. Human activity often has negative impacts on marine life within the continental shelf. Ocean temperatures depend on the amount of solar radiation reaching the ocean surface. In the tropics, surface temperatures can rise to over 30 °C (86 °F). Near the poles where sea ice forms, the temperature in equilibrium

9348-508: The ocean, on land and air. All these processes and components together make up ocean surface ecosystems . Tides are the regular rise and fall in water level experienced by oceans, primarily driven by the Moon 's gravitational tidal forces upon the Earth. Tidal forces affect all matter on Earth, but only fluids like the ocean demonstrate the effects on human timescales. (For example, tidal forces acting on rock may produce tidal locking between two planetary bodies.) Though primarily driven by

9462-469: The ocean. If the wind dies down, the wave formation is reduced, but already-formed waves continue to travel in their original direction until they meet land. The size of the waves depends on the fetch , the distance that the wind has blown over the water and the strength and duration of that wind. When waves meet others coming from different directions, interference between the two can produce broken, irregular seas. Constructive interference can lead to

9576-419: The oceans absorb CO 2 from the atmosphere , a higher concentration leads to ocean acidification (a drop in pH value ). The ocean provides many benefits to humans such as ecosystem services , access to seafood and other marine resources , and a means of transport . The ocean is known to be the habitat of over 230,000 species , but may hold considerably more – perhaps over two million species. Yet,

9690-425: The oceans could have been up to 50 m (165 ft) higher. The entire ocean, containing 97% of Earth's water, spans 70.8% of Earth 's surface, making it Earth's global ocean or world ocean . This makes Earth, along with its vibrant hydrosphere a "water world" or " ocean world ", particularly in Earth's early history when the ocean is thought to have possibly covered Earth completely. The ocean's shape

9804-434: The oceans have been mapped. The zone where land meets sea is known as the coast , and the part between the lowest spring tides and the upper limit reached by splashing waves is the shore . A beach is the accumulation of sand or shingle on the shore. A headland is a point of land jutting out into the sea and a larger promontory is known as a cape . The indentation of a coastline, especially between two headlands,

9918-533: The oceans may have always been on the Earth since the beginning of the planet's formation. In this model, atmospheric greenhouse gases kept the oceans from freezing when the newly forming Sun had only 70% of its current luminosity . The origin of Earth's oceans is unknown. Oceans are thought to have formed in the Hadean eon and may have been the cause for the emergence of life . Plate tectonics , post-glacial rebound , and sea level rise continually change

10032-465: The passage of these lows. Swells arrive in pulses, each lasting for a couple of days, with a few days between each swell. The availability of free model data from the NOAA has allowed the creation of several surf forecasting websites. Tube shape is defined by length to width ratio. A perfectly cylindrical vortex has a ratio of 1:1. Other forms include: Peel or peeling off as a descriptive term for

10146-451: The photic zone, the mesopelagic zone and the aphotic deep ocean zone: The pelagic part of the aphotic zone can be further divided into vertical regions according to depth and temperature: Distinct boundaries between ocean surface waters and deep waters can be drawn based on the properties of the water. These boundaries are called thermoclines (temperature), haloclines (salinity), chemoclines (chemistry), and pycnoclines (density). If

10260-418: The power of a storm wave impacting on the foot of a cliff has a shattering effect as air in cracks and crevices is compressed and then expands rapidly with release of pressure. At the same time, sand and pebbles have an erosive effect as they are thrown against the rocks. This tends to undercut the cliff, and normal weathering processes such as the action of frost follows, causing further destruction. Gradually,

10374-520: The project by 2010 and now focuses solely on his wines in South Africa. Sadie sources Syrah and Mourvèdre from various terroirs located in the Voor-Paardeberg ward of the inland Paarl district, in total 43 hectares (110 acres) covering 48 separate parcels. Biodynamically produced, the grape yield average is extremely low, 1.2 pounds per vine . Vineyard pests are controlled using

10488-404: The quality of a break has been defined as "a fast, clean, evenly falling curl line, perfect for surfing, and usually found at pointbreaks." Tube speed is the rate of advance of the break along the length of the wave, and is the speed at which the surfer must move along the wave to keep up with the advance of the tube. Tube speed can be described using the peel angle and wave celerity. Peel angle

10602-431: The seabed before the break. The breaker type index and Iribarren number allow classification of breaker type as a function of wave steepness and seabed slope. The value of good surf in attracting surf tourism has prompted the construction of artificial reefs and sand bars. Artificial surfing reefs can be built with durable sandbags or concrete, and resemble a submerged breakwater. These artificial reefs not only provide

10716-455: The seabed between adjoining plates to form mid-oceanic ridges and here convection currents within the mantle tend to drive the two plates apart. Parallel to these ridges and nearer the coasts, one oceanic plate may slide beneath another oceanic plate in a process known as subduction . Deep trenches are formed here and the process is accompanied by friction as the plates grind together. The movement proceeds in jerks which cause earthquakes, heat

10830-407: The seabed causing deltas to form in estuaries. All these materials move back and forth under the influence of waves, tides and currents. Dredging removes material and deepens channels but may have unexpected effects elsewhere on the coastline. Governments make efforts to prevent flooding of the land by the building of breakwaters , seawalls , dykes and levees and other sea defences. For instance,

10944-401: The shore at the rate of six to eight per minute and these are known as constructive waves as they tend to move material up the beach and have little erosive effect. Storm waves arrive on shore in rapid succession and are known as destructive waves as the swash moves beach material seawards. Under their influence, the sand and shingle on the beach is ground together and abraded. Around high tide,

11058-404: The slope of the bottom. Waves suitable for surfing break as spilling or plunging types, and when they also have a suitable peel angle, their value for surfing is enhanced. Other factors such as wave height and period, and wind strength and direction can also influence steepness and intensity of the break, but the major influence on the type and shape of breaking waves is determined by the slope of

11172-454: The surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low pressure systems . Local wind conditions affect wave quality since the surface of a wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave. Waves are left-handed and right-handed depending upon

11286-512: The surface to the ocean floor. The water column is further divided into zones based on depth and the amount of light present. The photic zone starts at the surface and is defined to be "the depth at which light intensity is only 1% of the surface value" (approximately 200 m in the open ocean). This is the zone where photosynthesis can occur. In this process plants and microscopic algae (free floating phytoplankton ) use light, water, carbon dioxide, and nutrients to produce organic matter. As

11400-401: The surfer paddles toward shore in an attempt to match the speed of the wave (the same applies whether the surfer is standup paddling, bodysurfing, boogie-boarding or using some other type of watercraft, such as a waveski or kayak). Once the wave begins to carry the surfer forward, the surfer stands up and proceeds to ride the wave. The basic idea is to position the surfboard so it is just ahead of

11514-456: The system forms). As the world's ocean is the principal component of Earth's hydrosphere , it is integral to life on Earth, forms part of the carbon cycle and water cycle , and – as a huge heat reservoir – influences climate and weather patterns. The motions of the ocean surface, known as undulations or wind waves , are the partial and alternate rising and falling of the ocean surface. The series of mechanical waves that propagate along

11628-534: The use of V-drive boats, Wakesurfing , in which one surfs on the wake of a boat, has emerged. As of 2023, the Guinness Book of World Records recognized a 26.2 m (86 ft) wave ride by Sebastian Steudtner at Nazaré , Portugal as the largest wave ever surfed. During the winter season in the northern hemisphere, the North Shore of Oahu , the third-largest island of Hawaii , is known for having some of

11742-434: The very clearest ocean water, and is similar to blue light scattering in the sky . Ocean water represents the largest body of water within the global water cycle (oceans contain 97% of Earth's water ). Evaporation from the ocean moves water into the atmosphere to later rain back down onto land and the ocean. Oceans have a significant effect on the biosphere . The ocean as a whole is thought to cover approximately 90% of

11856-433: The wave is caught and ridden using the surfer's own body rather than a board, is very common and is considered by some surfers to be the purest form of surfing. The closest form of body surfing using a board is a handboard which normally has one strap over it to fit on one hand. Surfers who body board, body surf, or handboard feel more drag as they move through the water than stand up surfers do. This holds body surfers into

11970-444: The wave will break in an orderly line from the middle to the shoulder, enabling the experienced surfer to position themselves inside the wave as it is breaking. This is known as a tube ride. Viewed from the shore, the tube rider may disappear from view as the wave breaks over the rider's head. The longer the surfer remains in the tube, the more successful the ride. This is referred to as getting tubed, barrelled, shacked or pitted. Some of

12084-484: The women’s half-mile paddleboard race and the Venice Breakwater event in 1938, both held on the same day. Hawkins was also a pioneer in tandem surfing , a discipline that highlights synchronized surfing between two individuals on a single board. She gained further recognition in 1939 when she performed exhibition paddleboarding and tandem surfing displays at various Southern California beaches, inspiring

12198-518: The world's best-known waves for tube riding include Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, Teahupoo in Tahiti and G-Land in Java. Other names for the tube include "the barrel", and "the pit". Hanging ten and hanging five are moves usually specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all of the surfer's toes off the edge, also known as nose-riding. Hanging Five

12312-476: The world, and from the surface into the deep ocean. All this has impacts on the global climate system . Ocean water contains dissolved gases, including oxygen , carbon dioxide and nitrogen . An exchange of these gases occurs at the ocean's surface. The solubility of these gases depends on the temperature and salinity of the water. The carbon dioxide concentration in the atmosphere is rising due to CO 2 emissions , mainly from fossil fuel combustion. As

12426-462: Was a joint collaboration with Dominik A. Huber and viticulturist Jaume Sabaté. The project was founded in 2004 and initially drew upon fruit from the vineyards of Dits del Terra owned by Sadie, Arbossar owned by Huber. Despite the Northern Hemisphere agricultural cycle allowing Sadie to work both vintages, he started taking a less prominent role starting in 2010. Sadie ceased all involvement in

12540-449: Was an example of a surfable wave pool. Able to generate waves with up to 3 m (10 ft) faces, the specialized pump held water in 20 vertical tanks positioned along the back edge of the pool. This allowed the waves to be directed as they approach the artificial sea floor. Lefts, Rights, and A-frames could be directed from this pump design providing for rippable surf and barrel rides. The Ocean Dome cost about $ 2 billion to build and

12654-479: Was expensive to maintain. The Ocean Dome was closed in 2007. In England, construction is nearing completion on the Wave, situated near Bristol , which will enable people unable to get to the coast to enjoy the waves in a controlled environment, set in the heart of nature. There are two main types of artificial waves that exist today. One being artificial or stationary waves which simulate a moving, breaking wave by pumping

12768-429: Was founded in 1999. The initial vintage of Columella in 2000 began on an exceptionally small scale, with a production of 17 barrels, approximately 5000 bottles. The first two vintages were produced at Back's Spice Route facilities until Sadie established Sadie Family Wines with R 9000 (US$ 1297), and 14 barrels. The company consists of three employees, in addition to Eben Sadie, his brother and sister. The initial vintage of

12882-750: Was recovered from the Isua Greenstone Belt and provides evidence that water existed on Earth 3.8 billion years ago. In the Nuvvuagittuq Greenstone Belt , Quebec , Canada, rocks dated at 3.8 billion years old by one study and 4.28 billion years old by another show evidence of the presence of water at these ages. If oceans existed earlier than this, any geological evidence either has yet to be discovered, or has since been destroyed by geological processes like crustal recycling . However, in August 2020, researchers reported that sufficient water to fill

12996-530: Was removed in 2008. In Kovalam , South West India, an artificial reef has successfully provided the local community with a quality lefthander, stabilized coastal soil erosion, and provided good habitat for marine life . ASR Ltd., a New Zealand-based company, constructed the Kovalam reef and is working on another reef in Boscombe, England. Even with artificial reefs in place, a tourist's vacation time may coincide with

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