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93-596: The temple was founded in 1164 by Taira no Kiyomori for the cloistered Emperor Go-Shirakawa . It is officially known as Rengeō-in ( 蓮華王院 , hall of the Lotus King ) and belongs to the Myōhō-in temple complex. Sanjūsangen-dō is most famous for its massively long hondō (main hall) dating from 1266 ( Kamakura period ) and designated a National Treasure of Japan , and the collection of sculptures it houses, including 1001 standing Thousand-armed Kannon , 28 standing attendants,

186-433: A tanmono , though Western-style fabric bolts are also sometimes used. There are different types of kimono for men, women, and children, varying based on the occasion, the season , the wearer's age, and – less commonly in the modern day – the wearer's marital status. Despite the kimono's reputation as a formal and difficult-to-wear garment, there are types of kimono suitable for both formal and informal occasions. The way

279-543: A dōnuki . Kimono that were in better condition could be re-used as an under-kimono, or to create a false underlayer known as a hiyoku . Children also traditionally wore kataire , kimono made of a fancier material in the okumi and upper back. Kimono are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric known as a tanmono , which is roughly 11.5 metres (38 ft) long and 36 centimetres (14 in) wide for women, and 12.5 metres (41 ft) long and 42 centimetres (17 in) wide for men. The entire bolt

372-484: A benevolence that would turn out to be the Taira clan's downfall later on. Due to his status as the head of the sole remaining warrior clan in imperial court, Kiyomori was in a unique position to manipulate the court rivalry between the retired emperor , Go-Shirakawa , and his son, Emperor Nijō . Because of this manipulation, Kiyomori was able to climb the ranks of government, though the majority of his promotions as well as

465-748: A devotee of the goddess, despite his awareness that the benefits obtained through the Dakiniten rite (吒天の法, Daten no hō ) would not be passed on to his progeny. The story thus attributes both Kiyomori's rise in power and the subsequent fall of his clan to his performance of the Dakiniten ritual. Taira no Kiyomori is the main character in the Kamakura period epic, the Tale of Heike . The Daiei Film production of Kenji Mizoguchi 's 1955 film Shin Heike Monogatari (variously translated as Taira Clan Saga, Tales of

558-420: A few percent of the bought-new price. In the 1990s and early 2000s, many secondhand kimono shops opened as a result of this. In the early years of the 21st century, the cheaper and simpler yukata became popular with young people. Around 2010, men began wearing kimono again in situations other than their own wedding, and kimono were again promoted and worn as everyday dress by a small minority. Today,

651-434: A leftover from the trailing length of most women's kimono, which had previously been either held up by hand when walking or tied up loosely with a shigoki obi ; though kimono were not worn as trailing towards the end of the 19th century, the excess length of most women's kimono remained, with the hip fold formalised and neatened into the ohashori of the modern day. Kimono have a set method of construction, which allows

744-452: A major influence. From this point onwards, the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono remained largely unchanged. The sleeves of the kosode began to grow in length, especially amongst unmarried women, and the obi became much longer and wider, with various styles of knots coming into fashion, alongside stiffer weaves of material to support them. In the Edo period, the kimono market

837-516: A marriage between his daughter Tokuko and Emperor Takakura . Their first son, the future Emperor Antoku , was born in 1178. The next year, in 1179, Kiyomori staged a coup d'état forcing the resignation of his rivals from all government posts and subsequently banishing them. He then filled the open government positions with his allies and relatives, and imprisoned (house arrest) the cloistered Emperor Go-Shirakawa . Finally, in 1180 Kiyomori forced Emperor Takakura to abdicate and give Prince Tokihito

930-485: A person wears their kimono is known as kitsuke ( 着付け , lit.   ' dressing ' ) . The history of the kimono can be tracked back to the Heian period (794–1185), when Japan's nobility embraced a distinctive style of clothing. Formerly the most common Japanese garment, the kimono has fallen out of favor and is rarely worn as everyday dress now. They are most often seen at summer festivals, where people frequently wear

1023-415: A single formal kimono could support the seller comfortably for three months. The kimono industry peaked in 1975, with total sales of 2.8 trillion yen (~£18 billion). The sale of informal brand new kimono was largely neglected. The economic collapse of the 1990s bankrupted much of the kimono industry and ended a number of expensive practices. The rules for how to wear kimono lost their previous hold over

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1116-458: A statue of Fūjin and a statue of Raijin , and the principal image of the temple, a big seated statue of Thousand-armed Kannon, all of them designated National Treasures in the category of sculptures , most of them dating to the Heian to Kamakura periods . 34°59′16″N 135°46′18″E  /  34.98778°N 135.77167°E  / 34.98778; 135.77167 Sanjūsangen-dō was founded by

1209-510: A subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are more common in informal men's kimono. Informal men's kimono may also feature slightly brighter colours, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colours, such as fuchsia, in their kimono, which they are required to wear when appearing in public. The fabrics that kimono are made from are classified in two categories within Japan. Gofuku ( 呉服 )

1302-425: A superstition that gripped men for centuries. The courtiers and priests have tried to have me for blasphemy. But others have supported me, more than I expected. Some of them are lords, too. Father, a greater battle lies ahead. But I remain undaunted. No matter how I am beaten, I shall rise again". The film then ends with Kiyomori approaching an alfresco Fujiwara dance, vowing to himself, "Dance, my Lords, dance. Your end

1395-669: A sympathetic villain in Osamu Tezuka 's Phoenix series in the first half of the ninth volume, Turbulent Times (retitled Civil War in English), another Genpei War epic. Like most villains in the series he desires the titular bird for its immortality granting blood, due to his desire to continue to lead and protect the Taira clan and lack of confidence in his successors, but winds up being tricked into buying an imported peacock instead. A character named Lord Kiyomori appears in Book 6, "The Lords of

1488-585: A trend that continued throughout the Taishō period, as social occasions and opportunities for leisure increased under the abolition of class distinctions. As Western clothing increased in popularity for men as everyday clothing, the kimono industry further established its own traditions of formal and informal dress for women; this saw the invention of the hōmongi , divisions of tomesode (short-sleeved) kimono for women, and montsuki hakama . The bridal kimono trousseau ( oyomeiri dōgu ), an uncommon practice of

1581-778: A variety of ways, depending on the type of kimono and its original use. When the cloth is worn out, it may be used as fabric for smaller items or to create boroboro (patchwork) kimono (which were also sometimes made for the sake of fashion ). The fact that the pattern pieces of a kimono consist of rectangles, and not complex shapes, make reuse in garments or other items easier. Sashiko are used to hold cloth together and decorate it. The cloth used for patchwork clothing must all be of similar weight , drape , and handle . Formal kimono, made of expensive and thin silk fabrics, would have been re-sewn into children's kimono when they became unusable for adults, as they were typically unsuitable for practical clothing; kimono were shortened, with

1674-635: A wide variety of fibre types, including hemp, linen, silk, Japanese crêpe (known as chirimen ), and figured damask weaves ( rinzu ). Fabrics are typically – for both obi and kimono – woven as tanmono (bolts of narrow width), save for certain types of obi (such as the maru obi ), woven to double-width. Formal kimono are almost always made from silk, with thicker, heavier, stiff or matte fabrics generally being considered informal. Modern kimono are widely available in fabrics considered easier to care for, such as polyester. Kimono linings are typically silk or imitation silk, and often match

1767-574: Is 120 - meter long. Around the 1000 Kannon statues stand 28 statues of guardian deities. There are also two famous statues of Fūjin and Raijin . The 28 guardian deities stand in front of the Buddhist Kannon have their origins in Sanskrit texts of Hinduism. These ideas came to Japan through China, and the presence of both Hindu and Buddhist deities at Sanjūsangen-dō temple in Kyoto suggest various theories of

1860-501: Is a National Treasure of Japan . The temple also contains one thousand life-size statues of the Thousand Armed Kannon which stand on both the right and left sides of the main statue in 10 rows and 50 columns. Of these, 124 statues are from the original temple, rescued from the fire of 1249, while the remaining 876 statues were constructed in the 13th century. The statues are made of Japanese cypress clad in gold leaf. The temple

1953-413: Is a wrapped-front garment with square sleeves and a rectangular body, and is worn left side wrapped over right , unless the wearer is deceased. The kimono is traditionally worn with a broad sash, called an obi , and is commonly worn with accessories such as zōri sandals and tabi socks. Kimono have a set method of construction and are typically made from a long, narrow bolt of cloth known as

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2046-425: Is near. Tomorrow will be ours!" Taira no Kiyomori was featured by 19th-century woodblock print artists as an exemplar of guilt and retribution, see the accompanying print by Yoshitoshi . The famous print generally known as The Vision of Kiyomori by Utagawa Hiroshige depicts the actor Nakamura Utayemon IV in the character of Kiyomori, confronted by the horrific vision of his snow-filled garden transformed into

2139-803: Is popularly believed to have been fought just outside Sanjūsangen-dō in 1604. In the second Sunday of January, the temple has an event known as the Rite of the Willow , where worshippers are touched on the head with a sacred willow branch to cure and prevent headaches, and a modern version of the Tōshiya , the Festival of the Great Target , is held on the west veranda, drawing roughly 2,000 participants from throughout Japan. Archers shoot arrows into targets approximately 50 - 100 centimeters in diameter and 60 meters (198 feet) away at

2232-611: Is the term used to indicate silk kimono fabrics, composed of the characters go ( 呉 , the Japanese pronunciation of "Wu") , referring to the State of Wu in ancient China where silk weaving technology developed, and fuku ( 服 , meaning "clothing") . The term gofuku is also used to refer to kimono in general within Japan, particularly within the context of the kimono industry, as traditional kimono shops are referred to as either gofukuten ( 呉服店 ) or gofukuya ( 呉服屋 ) – with

2325-455: Is used to make one kimono, and some men's tanmono are woven to be long enough to create a matching haori jacket and juban as well. Kimono linings are made from bolts of the same width. Some custom bolts of fabric are produced for especially tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, who must have kimono custom-made by either joining multiple bolts, weaving custom-width fabric, or using non-standard size fabric. For children, in

2418-408: The yukata , the most informal type of kimono. More formal types are worn to funerals, weddings, graduations, and other formal events. Geisha and maiko are required to wear a kimono as part of their profession, and rikishi ( sumo wrestlers) must wear kimonos at all times in public. Despite the small number of people who wear it regularly and its reputation as a complicated garment,

2511-402: The okumi taken off and the collar re-sewn to create haori , or were simply cut at the waist to create a side-tying jacket. After marriage or a certain age, young women would shorten the sleeves of their kimono; the excess fabric would be used as a furoshiki (wrapping cloth), could be used to lengthen the kimono at the waist, or could be used to create a patchwork undergarment known as

2604-524: The Azuchi–Momoyama period (1568–1600), the decoration of the kosode developed further, with bolder designs and flashy colours becoming popular. By this time, separate lower-body garments, such as the mō and hakama , were almost never worn, allowing full-length patterns to be seen. During the Edo period (1603–1867 CE), both Japan's culture and economy developed significantly. A particular factor in

2697-566: The Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923, cheap, informal and ready-to-wear meisen kimono, woven from raw and waste silk threads unsuitable for other uses, became highly popular, following the loss of many people's possessions. By 1930, ready-to-wear meisen kimono had become highly popular for their bright, seasonally changing designs , many of which took inspiration from the Art Deco movement. Meisen kimono were usually dyed using

2790-475: The Heiji Rebellion in 1160. Kiyomori, emerging victorious with Yoshitomo (whose two eldest sons were killed), was now the head of the single most powerful warrior clan in imperial capital Kyoto . However, his clan's power and influence in the provinces at this time is a matter of debate. Kiyomori showed mercy and exiled a few of Yoshitomo's surviving sons, including Yoritomo , Noriyori , and Yoshitsune –

2883-469: The Kyoto National Museum so visitors are encouraged to visit the other sights while at the temple. Cameras are not allowed inside the temple, but a photo book will be offered at the end of the guided tour that you can purchase. Taira no Kiyomori Taira no Kiyomori ( 平 清盛 , 1118 – March 20, 1181) was a military leader and kugyō of the late Heian period of Japan . He established

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2976-462: The Meiji period , the opening of Japan to Western trade after the enclosure of the Edo period led to a drive towards Western dress as a sign of "modernity". After an edict by Emperor Meiji , policemen, railroad workers and teachers moved to wearing Western clothing within their job roles, with the adoption of Western clothing by men in Japan happening at a much greater pace than by women. Initiatives such as

3069-626: The Taira clan and ambitiously entered the political realm, in which he had previously only held a minor post. Before that though, in 1156, he and Minamoto no Yoshitomo , head of the Minamoto clan, suppressed the rebels in the Hōgen Rebellion . This established the Taira and Minamoto as the top samurai clans in Kyoto . However, this caused the allies to become bitter rivals which culminated four years later during

3162-560: The Victoria and Albert museum staged an exhibition called Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk , a "collection of around 300 garments, accessories, paintings, prints, photographs and film clips" relating to the history of the Kimono from the 17th century to the present. The final instalment of the exhibition's four-year international tour was at the V&;A Dundee in 2024. Both kimono and obi are made from

3255-404: The ikat ( kasuri ) technique of dyeing, where either warp or both warp and weft threads (known as heiyō-gasuri ) were dyed using a stencil pattern before weaving. It was during the Taishō period that the modern formalisation of kimono and kimono types began to emerge. The Meiji period had seen the slow introduction of kimono types that mediated between the informal and the most formal,

3348-447: The mо̄  [ ja ] ( 裳 ) grew too narrow to wrap all the way around and became a trapezoidal pleated train . Hakama (trousers) became longer than the legs and also trailed behind the wearer. During the later Heian period, various clothing edicts reduced the number of layers a woman could wear, leading to the kosode ( lit.   ' small sleeve ' ) garment—previously considered underwear—becoming outerwear by

3441-548: The "proper" kitsuke of upper-class women. However, kitsuke standards were still relatively informal, and would not become formalised until after World War II. While kimono were no longer common wear for men, they remained everyday wear for Japanese women until World War II (1940–1945). Though the Taishō period had seen a number of invented traditions, standards of kitsuke (wearing kimono) were still not as formalised in this time, with creases, uneven ohashori and crooked obi still deemed acceptable. During

3534-506: The 1930s. Many kimono motifs are seasonal , and denote the season in which the kimono can be worn; however, some motifs have no season and can be worn all-year round. Others, such as the combination of pine, plum and bamboo – a grouping referred to as the Three Friends of Winter – are auspicious, and thus worn to formal occasions for the entire year. Motifs seen on yukata are commonly seasonal motifs worn out of season, either to denote

3627-521: The Meiji period, stores only retailing futomono kimono became less profitable in the face of cheaper everyday Western clothing, and eventually went out of business, leaving only gofuku stores to sell kimono – leading to kimono shops becoming known only as gofukuya today. Kimono can readily be resized, or unpicked back into tanmono (bolt) lengths. Outside of being re-woven into new fabrics, worn-out kimono have historically been recycled in

3720-610: The Rising Sun" in the Fabled Lands adventure gamebook series, where he is portrayed as the Imperial Sovereign Takakura's chancellor, and on the verge of war with the self-proclaimed shogun by the name of "Yoritomo". The 2012 NHK Taiga drama was about him. Kimono The kimono ( きもの/ 着物 , lit.   ' thing to wear ' ) is a traditional Japanese garment and the national dress of Japan . The kimono

3813-677: The Taira Clan , and The Sacrilegious Hero ) credits its story as "from the novel by Yoshikawa Eiji ", which in turn is a 1950 retelling of the 14th-century epic The Tale of the Heike . The opening introduction to the film, in its English subtitles, is Japan, in the Tenth and Eleventh centuries, was virtually controlled by the Fujiwara clan . But in the Twelfth century, Fujiwara influence began to wane, partly due to

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3906-501: The Tokyo Women's & Children's Wear Manufacturers' Association ( 東京婦人子供服組合 ) promoted Western dress as everyday clothing. Western clothing quickly became standard issue as army uniform for men and school uniform for boys, and between 1920 and 1930, the fuku sailor outfit replaced the kimono and undivided hakama as school uniform for girls. However, kimono still remained popular as an item of everyday fashion; following

3999-467: The additional character of ya ( 屋 ) meaning 'shop'. Cotton and hemp fabrics are referred to generally as futomono ( 太物 ) , meaning "thick materials", with both cotton and hemp yarns being considerably thicker than silk yarns used for weaving. Cotton kimono are specifically referred to in the context of materials as momenfuku ( 木綿服 ) , "cotton clothes", whereas hemp kimono are known as asafuku ( 麻服 ) , "hemp clothes", in Japanese, with

4092-414: The aristocracy and samurai classes, shown by their brightly-coloured kimono that utilised expensive production techniques, such as hand-painted dyework. Rinzu , a damask fabric, also became the preferred material for kimono at this time, replacing the previously-popular nerinuki plain-weave silk, which had been used to create tsujigahana . In response to the increasing material wealth of

4185-536: The body. During the Heian period (794–1193 CE), Japan stopped sending envoys to the Chinese dynastic courts. This prevented Chinese-imported goods—including clothing—from entering the Imperial Palace . This also prevented dissemination to the upper classes, who were the main arbiters of traditional Japanese culture at the time, and the only people allowed to wear such clothing. The ensuing cultural vacuum facilitated

4278-451: The character for hemp – asa ( 麻 ) – also being used to refer widely to hemp, linen and ramie kimono fabrics. Until the end of the Edo period, the tailoring of both gofuku and futomono fabrics was separated, with silk kimono handled at shops known as gofuku dana , and kimono of other fibres sold at shops known as futomono dana . Stores that handled all types of fabric were known as gofuku futomono dana , though after

4371-400: The child grew, and are mostly only seen today on the kimono of apprentice geisha in Kyoto, as apprentices previously began their training at a young age, requiring tucks to be let out as they grew. In the present day, apprentices begin their training in their late teenage years, and the tucks are retained merely as an anachronism. Though adult women also retained a 'tuck' at the hip, this was

4464-449: The coming season. Though men's kimono historically displayed just as much decoration and variety as women's kimono, in the modern era, the principal distinction of men's kimono in terms of seasonality and occasion is the fabric. The typical men's kimono is a subdued, dark colour; black, dark blues, greens and browns are common. Fabrics are usually matte, in contrast to the occasional satin weaves of some women's kimono. Some men's kimono have

4557-421: The course of 16 years. A popular kyūjutsu (archery) tournament known as Tōshiya ("passing arrow") was held at the west veranda of the temple for 255 years during the Edo period . The contest originated in the late 16th century dating back to 1606 when a samurai named Asaoka Heibei is said to have shot 51 arrows in rapid succession down the length of the veranda. In the beginning, archers shot arrows from

4650-491: The development of a Japanese culture independent from Chinese fashions. Elements previously lifted from the Tang Dynastic courts developed independently into what is known literally as "national culture" or " kokufū culture" ( 国風文化 , kokufū-bunka ) . The term is used to refer to Heian-period Japanese culture, particularly that of the upper classes. Women's clothing in the imperial palace became increasingly stylised in

4743-436: The development of the Edo period was the early Genroku period (1688–1704 CE), wherein " Genroku culture " – luxurious displays of wealth and increased patronage of the arts – led to the further development of many art forms, including those of clothing. Genroku culture was led by the growing and increasingly-powerful merchant classes ( chōnin ), whose clothing was representative of their increasing economic power and rivaled

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4836-637: The double-monarchy. An Emperor would abdicate but continue to rule from behind the scenes. Thus there was an Imperial Court and an ex-Emperor's Cloister Court, both emperors being descended from the Sun Goddess. Inevitably, there was conflict between the courts. Both began to depend on the warriors, the samurai . Until then, Fujiwara rule had involved little bloodshed. Some monasteries also had their own armies. The monasteries used them to intimidate both courts. Big landowners paid no taxes. Piracy and banditry increased. The Cloister Court attempted to restore order using

4929-439: The early 1900s, shorter lengths were used, and sometimes the body of the kimono was made only a single cloth width wide ( hitotsumi ). Tucks were also used to take in the garment; an outwards-facing pleat at each shoulder ( kata-nue-age ) and a kolpos -like overfold at the hip ( koshi-nue-age ), so that the child appeared to be wearing a sleeveless vest of the same fabric over their garment. These sewn tucks were let out as

5022-413: The early Meiji period to Western trade, a number of materials and techniques – such as wool and the use of synthetic dyestuffs – became popular, with casual wool kimono being relatively common in pre-1960s Japan; the use of safflower dye ( beni ) for silk linings fabrics (known as momi ; literally, "red silk") was also common in pre-1960s Japan, making kimono from this era easily identifiable. During

5115-415: The entire garment to be taken apart, cleaned and resewn easily. As the seam allowance on nearly every panel features two selvedges that will not fray, the woven edges of the fabric bolt are retained when the kimono is sewn, leading to large and often uneven seam allowances; unlike Western clothing, the seam allowances are not trimmed down, allowing for a kimono to be resewn to different measurements without

5208-497: The entire industry, and formerly-expensive traditions such as bridal kimono trousseaus generally disappeared, and when still given, were much less extensive. It was during this time that it became acceptable and even preferred for women to wear Western dress to ceremonial occasions like weddings and funerals. Many women had dozens or even hundreds of kimono, mostly unworn, in their homes; a secondhand kimono, even if unworn, would sell for about 500 yen (less than £3.50; about US$ 5),

5301-484: The fabric fraying at the seams. This was also used to prolong the life of the garment by reversing the sleeves (hiding the worn cuff hem in the shoulder seam) or the back panels (swapping the high-stress center seam and the low-stress sides), like the European custom of side-to-middling or end-to-middling bedsheets. Historically, kimono were taken apart entirely to be washed – a process known as arai-hari . Once cleaned,

5394-408: The fabric would be resewn by hand; this process, though necessary in previous centuries, is uncommon in modern-day Japan, as it is relatively expensive. Despite the expense of hand-sewing, however, some modern kimono, including silk kimono and all formal kimono, are still hand-sewn entirely; even machine-sewn kimono require some degree of hand-sewing, particularly in finishing the collar, the hem, and

5487-520: The famous samurai and politician Taira no Kiyomori (1118-1181) in 1164 for the cloistered Emperor Go-Shirakawa . He built the temple in the emperor's own compound Hōjūji-dono in order to gain a noble title, that of Chancellor of the Realm, becoming the first samurai to do so. Go-Shirakawa's compound was around 1100 square meters in size, divided into Minamidono (the southern estate) and Kitadono (the northern estate). When Go-Shirakawa died in 1192, he

5580-457: The first samurai -dominated administrative government in the history of Japan . Kiyomori was born in Japan, in 1118 as the first son of Taira no Tadamori . His mother, Gion no Nyogo, was wife of Tadamori and a palace servant according to The Tale of the Heike . Father : Taira no Tadamori Mother : Gion no Nyogo (d. 1147) Concubine(s) : Taira no Tokiko Children : After the death of his father in 1153, Kiyomori assumed control of

5673-409: The formal jūnihitoe , with some elements being abandoned by both male and female courtiers, such as the round-necked and tube-sleeved chun ju jacket worn by both genders in the early 7th century. Others, such as the wrapped front robes also worn by men and women, were kept. Some elements, such as the mo skirt worn by women, continued to in a reduced capacity, worn only to formal occasions;

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5766-461: The formalisation. ). Kimono were promoted as essential for ceremonial occasions; for instance, the expensive furisode worn by young women for Seijinshiki was deemed a necessity. Bridal trousseaus containing tens of kimono of every possible subtype were also promoted as de rigueur , and parents felt obliged to provide kimono trousseaus that cost up to 10 million yen (~£70,000), which were displayed and inspected publicly as part of

5859-419: The front with a left-to-right closure, following typical Chinese fashions. This convention of wear is still followed today, with a right-to-left closure worn only by the deceased. Clothing used by the upper classes was significantly simpler to don and wear than dress from the following Heian period. Sleeves, while narrow, were long enough to cover the fingers, since status was associated with covering more of

5952-606: The goal of maintaining the social and political prestige of having attained the highest office in the land, but being free of the attendant duties. This had been a common practice for many years in the highest levels of ancient Japanese government and in doing so Kiyomori was asserting what he felt was his strong position in the Kyoto government . However, many of the courtiers from traditional civil (non-warrior) noble families were less than pleased with both Kiyomori's attainment of power, and how he comported himself with regard to other high ranking courtiers. In 1171, Kiyomori arranged

6045-600: The heaped bones and skulls of his slaughtered enemies. In video games, Kiyomori appears in Warriors Orochi 2, 3 and 4 fighting for Orochi's army and using prayer beads as weapons. He also makes an appearance in Dynasty Warriors Strikeforce , as a boss in one of the game's Crossover Missions. Additionally, he is the main antagonist in Harukanaru Toki no Naka De 3 . Kiyomori also features prominently as

6138-419: The history of the temple as they explore its grand halls. Visitors can also come during the annual archery contest known as Tōshiya , which showcases traditional archery skills. Visitors can get to the temple by taking a train ride to Kyoto's station then after a short bus ride on buses 206 and 208, followed by a 20-minute walk they will be at the temple. The temple is close to many other attractions, such as

6231-772: The kimono has experienced a number of revivals in previous decades, and is still worn today as fashionable clothing in Japan. The first instances of kimono-like garments in Japan were traditional Chinese clothing introduced to Japan via Chinese envoys in the Kofun period (300–538 CE; the first part of the Yamato period), through immigration between the two countries and envoys to the Tang dynasty court leading to Chinese styles of dress, appearance, and culture becoming extremely popular in Japanese court society. The Imperial Japanese court quickly adopted Chinese styles of dress and clothing, with evidence of

6324-740: The kimono, and an increasingly tubular figure was promoted as the ideal for women in kimono. The kimono-retail industry also promoted a sharp distinction between Japanese and Western clothes; for instance, wearing Western shoes with Japanese clothing (while common in the Taishō period) was codified as improper; these rules on proper dressing are often described in Japanese using the English phrase "Time, Place, and Occasion" (TPO). As neither Japanese men or women commonly wore kimono, having grown up under wartime auspices, commercial kitsuke schools were set up to teach women how to don kimono. Men in this period rarely wore kimono, and menswear thus escaped most of

6417-415: The lining, if present. Hand-sewn kimono are usually sewn with a single running stitch roughly 3 millimetres (0.12 in) to 4 millimetres (0.16 in) long, with stitches growing shorter around the collar area for strength. Kimono seams, instead of being pressed entirely flat, are pressed to have a 'lip' of roughly 2 millimetres (0.079 in) (known as the kise ) pressed over each seam. This disguises

6510-437: The majority of people in Japan wear Western clothing as everyday attire, and are most likely to wear kimono either to formal occasions such as wedding ceremonies and funerals, or to summer events, where the standard kimono is the easy-to-wear, single-layer cotton yukata . In 2019, the mayor of Kyoto announced that his staff were working to register "Kimono Culture" on UNESCO 's intangible cultural heritage list. In 2020,

6603-507: The merchant classes, the Tokugawa shogunate issued a number of sumptuary laws on kimono for the lower classes, prohibiting the use of purple or red fabric, gold embroidery, and the use of intricately dyed shibori patterns. As a result, a school of aesthetic thought known as Iki developed. They valued and prioritised the display of wealth through an almost mundane appearance, and the concept of kimono design and wear continues to this day as

6696-564: The middle of 1180. Kiyomori died early the next year from sickness, leaving his son Munemori to preside over the downfall and destruction of the Taira at the hands of the Minamoto in 1185. The Tale of the Heike states that as he lay dying, Kiyomori's fever was so high that anyone who attempted to even get near him would be burned by the heat. The rapid rise of certain notable figures to prominence, as well as their decline, have been popularly attributed to Dakiniten. A certain anecdote regarding

6789-592: The military leader Taira no Kiyomori found in the Genpei Jōsuiki (one of a number of variants of the Heike Monogatari ) claims that Kiyomori once shot an arrow at a fox during a hunt. The fox then transformed into a woman who promised to grant Kiyomori whatever he wanted in exchange for her life. Kiyomori, realizing this woman is none other than the goddess Kiko Tennō (貴狐天王, lit. "Venerable Fox Deva -King", i.e. Dakiniten), spared her life. He subsequently became

6882-439: The most formal kimono, this is more of a general suggestion than a strict rule. Formal kimono are typically decorated with dyed patterns, commonly found along the hemline. These patterns may feature embroidery in parts, couched gold and silver thread, and/or gold and silver foil. The layout of motifs can denote a kimono's age, with patterns that mirror along the vertical back seam ( ryōzuma ) being typical for kimono made before

6975-557: The oldest samples of shibori tie-dyed fabric stored at the Shōsōin Temple being of Chinese origin, due to the limitations of Japan's ability to produce the fabrics at the time. As early as the 4th century CE, images of priestess-queens and tribal chiefs in Japan depicted figures wearing clothing similar that of Han dynasty China. In 718 CE, the Yoro clothing code was instituted, which stipulated that all robes had to be overlapped at

7068-467: The opposite end of the veranda. The festival was initially male-dominated, but in recent times it has shifted to being mainly women dressed in traditional kimonos , with the target being 120 meters (394 feet) away. The main deity of the temple is Sahasrabhuja-arya-avalokiteśvara or the Thousand Armed Kannon . The statue of the main deity was created by the Kamakura sculptor Tankei and

7161-1104: The origin and spread of the spiritual and cultural ideas from India to east Asia. Life-size statues of these deities are housed at Sanjūsangen-dō where they guard the principal statue of the 11 feet tall seated Senju Kannon. The temple also features 1,000 standing statues of the Senju Kannon. The deities at Sanjūsangen-dō include Naraenkengo-ou, Misshaku-kongorikishi, Touhou-ten, Birurokusha-tennou, Birubakusha-tennou, Bishamonten, Daibon-tennou, Taishaku-ten, Daibenkudoku-ten, Mawara-ou, Jinmo-ten, Konpira-ou, Manzensha-ou, Hippakara-ou, Gobujyogo-ten, Konjikikujyaku-ou, Sanshitai-sho, Nandaryu-ou, Sakararyu-ou, Karura-ou, Kondai-ou, Mansen-ou, Magoraka-ou, Makeishura-ou, Kendabba-ou, Ashura-ou, Kinnara-ou and Basusennin. These deities trace their origins to Indian Dharmic mythology covering Hindu, Jain and Buddhist, and correspond to Varuna , Vishnu , Lakshmi , Brahma , Shiva , Garuda , Vayu , Narayana , Indra and others. Sanjūsangen-dō offers guided tours to visitors year-round. Visitors will get an in-depth look at

7254-480: The reconstruction of the hondō , which began in 1251. The building was completed in 1266 and survives to the present day. From the original 1000 standing Thousand-armed Kannon dating from the temple's construction in the late Heian period , only 124 were saved from the fire. The Emperor also ordered 876 new Kannon statues to replace the lost ones. These were created by three groups of Buddhist sculptors, Kei school (Keiha), En school (Enpa) and In school (Inpa), during

7347-431: The seasons. Motifs typically represent the flora, fauna, landscape or culture of Japan; one such example is cherry blossoms , a famously seasonal motif worn in spring until just before the actual cherry blossoms begin to bloom, it being considered unlucky to try and 'compete' with the cherries. Motifs are typically worn a few weeks before the official 'start' of any given season, as it is considered fashionable to anticipate

7440-548: The second half of the 20th century, the Japanese economy boomed, and silk became cheaper, making it possible for the average family to afford silk kimono. The kimono retail industry had developed an elaborate codification of rules for kimono-wearing, with types of kimono, levels of formality, and rules on seasonality, which intensified after the war; there had previously been rules about kimono-wearing, but these were not rigidly codified and varied by region and class. Formalisation sought perfection, with no creases or unevenness in

7533-504: The southern end of the veranda to the northern end where a curtain -like ornament was erected as a target . The contest gained popularity during the Edo period and by the late 17th century competitions between participants from the Owari and Kishū provinces were drawing big crowds. The duel between the famous warrior Miyamoto Musashi and Yoshioka Denshichirō, leader of the Yoshioka-ryū ,

7626-420: The spring just passed or the desire for cooler autumn or winter temperatures. Colour also contributes to the seasonality of kimono, with some seasons – such as autumn – generally favouring warmer, darker colours over lighter, cooler ones. A number of different guides on seasonal kimono motifs exist, with some guides – such as those for tea ceremony in particular – being especially stringent on their reflection of

7719-408: The stitches, as hand-sewn kimono are not tightly sewn, rendering the stitches visible if pressed entirely flat. A number of terms are used to refer to the different parts of a kimono. Kimono that are lined are known as awase kimono, whereas unlined kimono are known as hitoe kimono; partially lined kimono – with lining only at the sleeve cuff, the back of the sleeve, the lower chest portion of

7812-408: The success of his family in gaining ranks and titles at court was due to Shirakawa's patronage. This culminated in 1167, when Kiyomori became the first courtier of a warrior family to be appointed daijō-daijin , chief minister of the government, and the de facto administrator of the imperial government. As was the norm, he soon relinquished the position and leadership of the Taira clan, with

7905-453: The throne, who then became Emperor Antoku . With the exertion of Taira power and wealth and Kiyomori's new monopoly on authority, many of his allies, most of the provincial samurai, and even members of his own clan turned against him. Prince Mochihito , brother of Emperor Takakura , called on Kiyomori's old rivals of the Minamoto clan to rise against the Taira, beginning the Genpei War in

7998-501: The time of the Muromachi period (1336–1573 CE). Originally worn with hakama , the kosode began to be held closed with a small belt known as an obi instead. The kosode resembled a modern kimono, though at this time the sleeves were sewn shut at the back and were smaller in width (shoulder seam to cuff) than the body of the garment. During the Sengoku period (1467–1615) and

8091-739: The top fabric in fibre type, though the lining of some casual silk kimono may be cotton, wool or linen. Kimono fabrics are often decorated, sometimes by hand, before construction. Customarily, kimono with woven patterns are considered more informal, though for obi , the reverse is true, with obi featuring dyed patterns being less formal than obi with woven patterns. Though kimono fabrics with woven patterns are typically not especially heavy and can be lightweight, obi fabrics with woven patterns are often very heavy, with many formal obi being made from thickly-woven brocade. Traditionally, woven kimono are paired with obi that are decorated with dyed patterns, and vice versa. However, for all but

8184-431: The upper classes in the Edo period, also became common throughout the middle classes; traditions of kimono bridalwear for marriage ceremonies were also codified in this time, which resembled the bridalwear of samurai-class women. Standards of kitsuke at this time began to slowly graduate to a more formalised, neatened appearance, with a flat, uniform ohashori and a smooth, uncreased obi , which also resembled

8277-420: The war, kimono factories shut down, and the government encouraged people to wear monpe (also romanised as mompe ) – trousers constructed from old kimono – instead. Fibres such as rayon became widespread during WWII, being inexpensive to produce and cheap to buy, and typically featured printed designs. Cloth rationing persisted until 1951, so most kimono were made at home from repurposed fabrics. In

8370-531: The warriors of the samurai Taira Clan. Thus were sown the seeds of military governments which dominated Japan for 700 years [i.e., until 1868 ] . This story begins in 1137, in Kyoto, ancient capital of Japan. Unlike most other tellings, Mizoguchi's film includes only the story of Taira no Kiyomori's youth, depicting him as a heroic character , particularly in breaking the power of the tyrannical armed monks and their palanquin shrines , where he says at his father's grave "Father, with two arrows from my bow I destroyed

8463-405: The wedding, including being transported in transparent trucks. By the 1970s, formal kimono formed the vast majority of kimono sales. Kimono retailers, due to the pricing structure of brand new kimono, had developed a relative monopoly on not only prices but also a perception of kimono knowledge, allowing them to dictate prices and heavily promote more formal (and expensive) purchases, as selling

8556-551: Was buried in the temple's east Hokkedō (hall of the Lotus Sutra ). The temple complex originally included several buildings other than the hondō ( main hall ), including a gojūnotō (five-storied pagoda ), a Kannondō (a hall of Kannon ) and a Fudodō (a hall of the Four Heavenly Kings ). All of these buildings were completely destroyed in 1249 by a fire that broke out in the city. The Emperor Go-Saga (1220–1272) ordered

8649-422: Was divided into craftspeople, who made the tanmono and accessories, tonya , or wholesalers, and retailers. In 1869, the social class system was abolished, and with them, class-specific sumptuary laws. Kimono with formerly-restricted elements, like red and purple colours, became popular, particularly with the advent of synthetic dyestuffs such as mauvine . Following the opening of Japan's borders in

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