128-630: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ( French pronunciation: [sɛ̃ ʁemi də pʁɔvɑ̃s] ; lit. "Saint-Rémy of Provence "; Provençal : Sant Romieg de Provença ( classical norm ) and Sant Roumié de Prouvènço ( Mistralian norm ) ) is a commune in the Bouches-du-Rhône department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in Southern France . It is often referred to simply as Saint-Rémy , its official name until 12 April 1953. Located in
256-618: A Name" ( Ville sans Nom .) In Toulon, the opponents of the Revolution handed the city to a British and Spanish fleet on 28 August 1793. A Revolutionary Army laid siege to the British positions for four months (see the Siege of Toulon ) and finally, the enterprise of the young commander of artillery, Napoleon Bonaparte defeated the British and drove them out in December 1793. About 15,000 royalists escaped with
384-520: A base for a new French Mediterranean fleet. The base was greatly enlarged by Jean-Baptiste Colbert , the minister of Louis XIV, who also commissioned his chief military engineer Vauban to strengthen the fortifications around the city. At the beginning of the 17th century, Provence had a population of about 450,000 people. It was predominantly rural, devoted to raising wheat, wine, and olives, with small industries for tanning, pottery, perfume-making, and ship and boat building. Provençal quilts , made from
512-449: A cultural, high-tech economy. The Marseille region is home to thousands of companies, 90% of which are small and medium enterprises with less than 500 employees. Among the most famous are CMA CGM , container-shipping giant; Compagnie maritime d'expertises (Comex), a leader in sub-sea engineering and hydraulic systems; Airbus Helicopters , an Airbus division; Azur Promotel, an active real estate development company; La Provence ,
640-557: A diver named Henri Cosquer discovered the mouth of a submarine cave 37 metres below the surface of the Calanque de Morgiou near Marseille. The entrance led to a cave above sea level. Inside, the walls of the Cosquer Cave are decorated with drawings of bison, seals, auks, horses and outlines of human hands, dating to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC. The end of the Paleolithic and beginning of
768-629: A major center for immigrant communities from former French colonies in Africa, such as French Algeria . Marseille is a major French centre for trade and industry, with excellent transportation infrastructure (roads, sea port and airport). Marseille Provence Airport is the fourth largest in France. In May 2005, the French financial magazine L'Expansion named Marseille the most dynamic of France's large cities, citing figures showing that 7,200 companies had been created in
896-672: A prize in the complex rivalries between the Catalan rulers of Barcelona , the kings of Burgundy , the German rulers of the Holy Roman Empire , and the Angevin kings of France. The Bosonids (879–1112) were the descendants of the first king of Provence, Boson. His son, Louis the Blind (890–928), lost his sight trying to win the throne of Italy, after which his cousin, Hugh of Italy (died 947), became
1024-489: A province of the kings of France . While it has been part of France for more than 500 years, it still retains a distinct cultural and linguistic identity, particularly in the interior of the region. The region got its name in Roman times, when it was known as Provincia Romana , simply "the Roman province". This name eventually was shortened to Provincia (the province), and as the language evolved from Latin to Provençal , so did
1152-465: A series of small colonies and trading posts along the coast; which later became towns; they founded Citharista ( La Ciotat ); Tauroeis (Le Brusc); Olbia (near Hyères ); Pergantion (Breganson); Caccabaria ( Cavalaire ); Athenopolis ( Saint-Tropez ); Antipolis ( Antibes ); Nikaia ( Nice ), and Monoicos ( Monaco ). They established inland towns at Glanum ( Saint-Remy ) and Mastrabala ( Saint-Blaise ). The most famous citizen of Massalia
1280-459: Is a city that has its own unique culture and is proud of its differences from the rest of France. Today it is a regional centre for culture and entertainment with an important opera house , historical and maritime museums, five art galleries and numerous cinemas, clubs, bars and restaurants. Marseille has a large number of theatres, including La Criée, Le Gymnase and the Théâtre Toursky. There
1408-576: Is also an extensive arts centre in La Friche , a former match factory behind the Saint-Charles station. The Alcazar , until the 1960s a well known music hall and variety theatre , has recently been completely remodelled behind its original façade and now houses the central municipal library. Other music venues in Marseille include Le Silo (also a theatre) and GRIM . Marseille has also been important in
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#17330845512661536-507: Is also an important arrival base for millions of people each year, with 2.4 million including 890,100 from cruise ships. With its beaches, history, architecture and culture (24 museums and 42 theatres), Marseille is one of the most visited cities in France, with 4.1 million visitors in 2012. They take place in three main sites, the Palais du Pharo , Palais des Congrès et des Expositions (Parc Chanot) and World Trade Center. In 2012 Marseille hosted
1664-459: Is divided into 16 municipal arrondissements , which are themselves informally divided into 111 neighbourhoods (French: quartiers ). The arrondissements are regrouped in pairs, into 8 sectors, each with a mayor and council (like the arrondissements in Paris and Lyon ). Municipal elections are held every six years and are carried out by sector. There are 303 councilmembers in total, two-thirds sitting in
1792-570: Is fed by the local catch; a daily fish market is still held on the Quai des Belges of the Old Port. The economy of Marseille and its region is still linked to its commercial port, the first French port and the fifth European port by cargo tonnage , which lies north of the Old Port and eastern in Fos-sur-Mer . Some 45,000 jobs are linked to the port activities and it represents €4 billion of added value to
1920-538: Is how Marseille responded in 2005, when ethnic populations living in other French cities' suburbs rioted , but Marseille remained relatively calm. Marseille served as the European Capital of Culture for 2013 along with Košice . It was chosen to give a 'human face' to the European Union to celebrate cultural diversity and to increase understanding between Europeans. One of the intentions of highlighting culture
2048-588: Is now named the Clinique Van Gogh for him. Provence Provence is a geographical region and historical province of southeastern France , which stretches from the left bank of the lower Rhône to the west to the Italian border to the east; it is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the south. It largely corresponds with the modern administrative region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur and includes
2176-528: Is rare, but can be heavy when it does fall. The ruins of the Roman city of Glanum , including a triumphal arch , can still be seen on the southern outskirts of the city. The Saint-Paul Asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is where Vincent van Gogh was a patient, from May 1889 to May 1890, and where he painted some of his most memorable works, including The Starry Night which features the town. The site
2304-503: Is recorded in July and August 29 °C (84 °F), and the lowest in December and January 3 °C (37 °F). The rainiest month is January with an average of 7 rainy days, compared with July, the driest month, with an average of 2 rainy days. The Alpilles region receives more precipitation than the French Rivera, 1–2 cm more per year. There are about 30 days of frost per year. Snow
2432-451: Is savage and dry. The soil is so rocky that you cannot plant anything without striking stones. The men compensate for the lack of wheat by hunting... They climb the mountains like goats." They were also warlike; they invaded Italy and went as far as Rome in the 4th century BC, and they later aided the passage of Hannibal , on his way to attack Rome (218 BC). Traces of the Ligures remain today in
2560-690: Is the location of Château d'If , made famous by the Dumas novel The Count of Monte Cristo . The main commercial centre of the city intersects with the Canebière at Rue St Ferréol and the Centre Bourse (one of the city's main shopping malls). The centre of Marseille has several pedestrianised zones, most notably Rue St Ferréol, Cours Julien near the Music Conservatory, the Cours Honoré-d'Estienne-d'Orves off
2688-410: Is the oldest city in France, as well as one of Europe's oldest continuously inhabited settlements . It was known to the ancient Greeks as Massalia ( Greek : Μασσαλία , romanized : Massalía ) and to Romans as Massilia . Marseille has been a trading port since ancient times. In particular, it experienced a considerable commercial boom during the colonial period and especially during
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#17330845512662816-527: Is the third-largest metropolitan area in France after Paris and Lyon. To the east, starting in the small fishing village of Callelongue on the outskirts of Marseille and stretching as far as Cassis , are the Calanques , a rugged coastal area interspersed with small fjord -like inlets. Farther east still are the Sainte-Baume (a 1,147 m (3,763 ft) mountain ridge rising from a forest of deciduous trees),
2944-488: Is to help reposition Marseille internationally, stimulate the economy, and help to build better interconnection between groups. Marseille-Provence 2013 (MP2013) featured more than 900 cultural events held throughout Marseille and the surrounding communities. These cultural events generated more than 11 million visits. The European Capital of Culture was also the occasion to unveil more than 600 million euros in new cultural infrastructure in Marseille and its environs, including
3072-514: The 1998 World Cup and Euro 2016 . It is also home to several higher education institutions in the region, including the University of Aix-Marseille . A resident of Marseille is a Marseillais . The name of Marseille is of unknown ultimate origin, but it is thought it may come from Ancient Ligurian , which was the local language before the arrival of the Greeks. Forms of the name include: Marseille
3200-532: The Bouches-du-Rhône department . Because of its pre-eminence as a Mediterranean port, Marseille has always been one of the main gateways into France. This has attracted many immigrants and made Marseille a cosmopolitan melting pot . By the end of the 18th century about half the population originated from elsewhere in Provence mostly and also from southern France. Economic conditions and political unrest in Europe and
3328-794: The House of Orange-Nassau of the Netherlands, who inherited it in 1544 and which was not incorporated into France until 1673. An army of the Catholic League laid siege to the Protestant city of Mėnerbes in the Vaucluse between 1573 and 1578. The wars did not stop until the end of the 16th century, with the consolidation of power in Provence by the Bourbon kings. The semi-independent Parliament of Provence in Aix and some of
3456-514: The MuCEM designed by Rudy Ricciotti . Early on, immigrants came to Marseille locally from the surrounding Provence region. By the 1890s immigrants came from other regions of France as well as Italy. Marseille became one of Europe's busiest ports by 1900. Marseille has served as a major port where immigrants from around the Mediterranean arrive. Marseille continued to be multicultural. Armenians from
3584-455: The Museum of Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean (MuCEM). As a result, Marseille now has the most museums in France after Paris . The city was named European Capital of Culture in 2013 and European Capital of Sport in 2017. Home of the association football club Olympique de Marseille , one of the most successful and widely supported clubs in France, Marseille has also hosted matches at
3712-695: The Neolithic period saw the sea settle at its present level, a warming of the climate and the retreat of the forests. The disappearance of the forests and the deer and other easily hunted game meant that the inhabitants of Provence had to survive on rabbits , snails and wild sheep. In about 6000 BC, the Castelnovian people, living around Châteauneuf-les-Martigues , were among the first people in Europe to domesticate wild sheep, and to cease moving constantly from place to place. Once they settled in one place they were able to develop new industries. Inspired by pottery from
3840-611: The Provence region, it is located on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea , near the mouth of the Rhône river. Marseille is the second-most populous city in France, after Paris , with 873,076 inhabitants in 2021. Marseille with its suburbs and exurbs create the Aix-Marseille-Provence Metropolis , with a population of 1,911,311 at the 2021 census. Founded c. 600 BC by Greek settlers from Phocaea , Marseille
3968-691: The Vaucluse ; the Cavares in the Comtat; and the Salyens, from the Rhône river to the Var. The tribes began to trade their local products, iron, silver, alabaster, marble, gold, resin, wax, honey and cheese; with their neighbours, first by trading routes along the Rhône river, and later Etruscan traders visited the coast. Etruscan amphorae from the 7th and 6th centuries BC have been found in Marseille, Cassis, and in hilltop oppida in
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4096-531: The World Water Forum . Several urban projects have been developed to make Marseille attractive. Thus new parks, museums, public spaces and real estate projects aim to improve the city's quality of life ( Parc du 26e Centenaire , Old Port of Marseille , numerous places in Euroméditerranée ) to attract firms and people. Marseille municipality acts to develop Marseille as a regional nexus for entertainment in
4224-516: The comte de Mirabeau and figures of the far left such as the Marquis de Sade ; there was also the military figure Charles Barbaroux and the theorist Emmanuel-Joseph Sieyès (1748–1836), who instigated the coup of 18 Brumaire which brought Napoleon to power. The revolutionary anthem La Marseillaise despite its origins on the Rhine got its name because revolutionary volunteers from Marseille sang it on
4352-553: The departments of Var , Bouches-du-Rhône, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence , as well as parts of Alpes-Maritimes and Vaucluse . The largest city of the region and its modern-day capital is Marseille . The Romans made the region the first Roman province beyond the Alps and called it Provincia Romana , which evolved into the present name. Until 1481 it was ruled by the counts of Provence from their capital in Aix-en-Provence , then became
4480-629: The dolmens and other megaliths found in eastern Provence, in the primitive stone shelters called 'Bories' found in the Luberon and Comtat , and in the rock carvings in the Valley of Marvels near Mont Bégo in the Alpes-Maritimes, at an altitude of 2,000 meters. Between the 8th and 5th centuries BC, tribes of Celtic peoples, probably coming from Central Europe, also began moving into Provence. They had weapons made of iron, which allowed them to easily defeat
4608-679: The inter-war period ; Sub-Saharan Africans after 1945; Maghrebi Jews in the 1950s and 1960s; the Pieds-Noirs from the former French Algeria in 1962; and then from Comoros . At the 2019 census, 81.4% of the inhabitants of the Marseille metropolitan area were natives of Metropolitan France , 0.6% were born in Overseas France , and 18.0% were born in foreign countries (two-fifth of whom French citizens from birth, in particular Pieds-Noirs from Algeria arrived in Metropolitan France after
4736-455: The 12th century, three Cistercian monasteries were built in remote parts of Provence, far from the political intrigues of the cities. Sénanque Abbey was the first, established in the Luberon between 1148 and 1178. Thoronet Abbey was founded in a remote valley near Draguignan in 1160. Silvacane Abbey , on the Durance river at La Roque-d'Anthéron , was founded in 1175. In the 13th century,
4864-569: The 18th century (previously several cities in France were involved in cardmaking). Another local tradition is the making of santons , small hand-crafted figurines for the traditional Provençal Christmas creche . Since 1803, starting on the last Sunday of November, there has been a Santon Fair in Marseille; it is currently held in the Cours d'Estienne d'Orves, a large square off the Vieux-Port. Marseille's main cultural attraction was, since its creation at
4992-603: The 19th century, becoming a prosperous industrial and trading city. Nowadays the Old Port still lies at the heart of the city, where the manufacture of Marseille soap began some six centuries ago. Overlooking the port is the Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde or "Bonne-mère" for the people of Marseille, a Romano-Byzantine church and the symbol of the city. Inherited from this past, the Grand Port Maritime de Marseille (GPMM) and
5120-514: The 5th century, Roman power in Provence had vanished, and an age of invasions, wars, and chaos began. There are many legends about the earliest Christians in Provence, but they are difficult to verify. It is documented that there were organised churches and bishops in the Roman towns of Provence as early as the 3rd and 4th centuries; in Arles in 254; Marseille in 314; Orange , Vaison and Apt in 314; Cavaillon , Digne , Embrun , Gap , and Fréjus at
5248-520: The Alps. Aix Cathedral was built on the site of the old Roman forum, and then rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Church of St. Trophime in Arles was a landmark of Romanesque architecture, built between the 12th and the 15th centuries. A vast fortress-like monastery, Montmajour Abbey , was built on an island just north of Arles and became a major destination for medieval pilgrims. In
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5376-635: The British fleet, but five to eight hundred of the 7,000 who remained were shot on the Champ de Mars, and Toulon was renamed "Port la Montagne". The fall of the Montagnards in July 1794 was followed by a new White Terror aimed at the revolutionaries. Calm was not restored until the rise of the Directory to power in 1795. Provence produced some memorable figures in the French Revolution ; both moderates such as
5504-635: The Catalan Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona , who as a result became Raymond Berenguer I, Count of Provence. He ruled Provence from 1112 until 1131, and his descendants, the Catalan counts, ruled in Provence until 1246. In 1125, Provence was divided; the part of Provence north and west of the Durance river went to the Count of Toulouse , while the lands between the Durance and the Mediterranean, and from
5632-457: The Centre Bourse in the 1st arrondissement; it is linked by the Boulevard d'Athènes to the Canebière. The city has a hot-summer mediterranean climate ( Köppen : Csa ) with cool-mild winters with moderate rainfall, because of the wet westerly winds, and hot, mostly dry summers. December, January, and February are the coldest months, averaging temperatures of around 12 °C (54 °F) during
5760-655: The Coast of Provence in the early 7th century. During the late 7th and the early 8th centuries, Provence was formally subject to the Frankish kings of the Merovingian dynasty , but it was in fact ruled by its own regional nobility of Gallo-Roman stock, which ruled themselves according to Roman, not Frankish, law. Actually, the region enjoyed more prestige than the northern Franks had, but the local aristocracy feared Charles Martel 's expansionist ambitions. In 737, Charles Martel headed down
5888-402: The French kings started to use marriage to extend their influence into the south of France. One son of King Louis VIII "the Lion", Alphonse, Count of Poitou , married the heiress of the Count of Toulouse, Joan . Another, Louis IX "the Saint" of France or Saint Louis (1214–1270), married Marguerite of Provence . Then, in 1246, Charles, Count of Anjou , the youngest son of Louis VIII, married
6016-433: The Fête du Panier in June. On 21 June, there are dozens of free concerts in the city as part of France's Fête de la Musique , featuring music from all over the world. Being free events, many Marseille residents attend. Marseille hosts a Gay Pride event in early July. In 2013, Marseille hosted Europride , an international LGBT event, 10 July–20. At the beginning of July, there is the International Documentary Festival. At
6144-404: The Latin name oppidum . Today the traces of 165 oppida are found in the Var, and as many as 285 in the Alpes-Maritimes. They worshipped various aspects of nature, establishing sacred woods at Sainte-Baume and Gemenos, and healing springs at Glanum and Vernègues. Later, in the 5th and 4th centuries BC, the different tribes formed confederations; the Voconces in the area from the Isère to
6272-431: The Mediterranean. Nearby, people sell fresh fish and men from Tunisia drink tea. Although most Armenians arrived after the Armenian Genocide , Armenians had a long presence even before the 20th and late 19th centuries. Armenians, having an extensive trade network worldwide, massively traded with Marseille and its port. Most notably, during the 16th century, and after the Armenians gained a monopoly over Iranian silk, which
6400-435: The Old Port and the area around the Hôtel de Ville. To the south east of central Marseille in the 6th arrondissement are the Prefecture and the monumental fountain of Place Castellane, an important bus and metro interchange. To the south west are the hills of the 7th and 8th arrondissements , dominated by the basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde . Marseille's main railway station— Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles —is north of
6528-402: The Ottoman Empire began arriving in 1913. In the 1930s, Italians settled in Marseille. After World War II, a wave of Jewish immigrants from North Africa arrived. In 1962, a number of French colonies gained their independence, and the French citizens from Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia arrived in Marseille. The city had an economic downturn and lost many jobs. Those who could afford to move left and
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#17330845512666656-449: The Paleolithic, the sea level in western Provence was 150 meters higher than today. By the end of the Paleolithic, it had dropped to 100 to 150 metres below the sea level today. The cave dwellings of the early inhabitants of Provence were regularly flooded by the rising sea or left far from the sea and swept away by erosion. The changes in the sea level led to one of the most remarkable discoveries of signs of early man in Provence. In 1985,
6784-405: The Piedmont in Italy. By the end of the 18th century, Marseille had a population of 120,000 people, making it the third largest city in France. Most of Provence, with the exception of Marseille, Aix and Avignon, was rural, conservative and largely royalist, and the Revolution was as violent and bloody in Provence as it was in other parts of France. On 30 April 1790, Fort Saint-Nicolas in Marseille
6912-411: The Pope. In 1545, the Parlement of Aix-en-Provence ordered the destruction of the villages of Lourmarin, Mérindol, Cabriéres in the Luberon, because their inhabitants were Vaudois , of Italian Piedmontese origin, and were not considered sufficiently orthodox Catholics. Most of Provence remained strongly Catholic, though Protestants controlled the Principality of Orange , an enclave ruled by William of
7040-425: The Port de la Joliette (now part of Marseille-Fos Port ) during the Second Empire and now contains restaurants, offices, bars and hotels and functions mostly as a private marina. The majority of the port and docks , which experienced decline in the 1970s after the oil crisis , have been recently redeveloped with funds from the European Union . Fishing remains important in Marseille and the food economy of Marseille
7168-401: The Rhône Valley after subduing Burgundy. He attacked Avignon and Arles , garrisoned by the Umayyads , and came back in 739 to capture for a second time Avignon and chase the duke Maurontus to his stronghold of Marseille. The city was brought to heel and the duke had to flee to an island. The region was thereafter under the rule of Carolingian kings, descended from Charles Martel, and then
7296-402: The Rhône river to the Alps, belonged to the counts of Provence. The capital of Provence was moved from Arles to Aix-en-Provence , and later to Brignoles . Under the Catalan counts, the 12th century saw the construction of important cathedrals and abbeys in Provence, in a harmonious new style, the Romanesque , which united the Gallo-Roman style of the Rhône Valley with the Lombard style of
7424-403: The Roman Siege of Massilia in 49 BC, during Caesar's Civil War , in which Massalia sided with the exiled faction at war with Julius Caesar . Afterward, the Gallo-Roman culture was initiated. The city maintained its position as a premier maritime trading hub even after its capture by the Visigoths in the fifth century AD, although the city went into decline following the sack of AD 739 by
7552-543: The Romans suppressed Ligurian uprisings near Genoa; in 154 BC the Roman Consul Optimus defeated the Oxybii and the Deciates , who were attacking Antibes; and in 125 BC, the Romans put down an uprising of a confederation of Celtic tribes. After this battle, the Romans decided to establish permanent settlements in Provence. In 122 BC, next to the Celtic town of Entremont, the Romans built a new town, Aquae Sextiae , later called Aix-en-Provence . In 118 BC they founded Narbo ( Narbonne ). The Roman general Gaius Marius crushed
7680-466: The Sahara. Snowfalls are infrequent; over 50% of years do not experience a single snowfall. The hottest temperature was 40.6 °C (105.1 °F) on 26 July 1983 during a great heat wave, the lowest temperature was −16.8 °C (1.8 °F) on 13 February 1929 during a strong cold wave. Marseille was founded as the Greek colony of Massalia c. 600 BC , and was populated by Greek settlers from Phocaea (modern Foça , Turkey). It became
7808-495: The Valley of the Rhône and connects Lyon to Marseille via Orange, is about 12 km (7.5 mi) east of Saint-Rémy. The A54 autoroute runs from Nîmes to Salon-de-Provence, passing through Arles, 17 km (11 mi) away. Finally, the A9 autoroute is 20 km to the northwest and runs from Orange to Perpignan via Montpellier. The climate in the Alpilles is considered Mediterranean. Winters there are gentle and dry, and summers are hot and dry. The highest average temperature
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#17330845512667936-409: The ancient world. At its height, in the 4th century BC, it had a population of about 6,000 inhabitants, living on about fifty hectares surrounded by a wall. It was governed as an aristocratic republic, by an assembly of the 600 wealthiest citizens. It had a large temple of the cult of Apollo of Delphi on a hilltop overlooking the port, and a temple of the cult of Artemis of Ephesus at the other end of
8064-493: The arts. It has been the birthplace and home of many French writers and poets, including Victor Gélu [ fr ] , Valère Bernard , Pierre Bertas , Edmond Rostand and André Roussin . The small port of l'Estaque on the far end of the Bay of Marseille became a favourite haunt for artists, including Auguste Renoir , Paul Cézanne (who frequently visited from his home in Aix ), Georges Braque and Raoul Dufy . Rich and poor neighborhoods exist side by side. Although
8192-418: The average sunshine in the country is around 1,950 hours. It is also the driest major city with only 532.3 mm (21 in) of precipitation annually, mainly due to the mistral , a cold, dry wind originating in the Rhône Valley that occurs mostly in winter and spring and which generally brings clear skies and sunny weather to the region. Less frequent is the sirocco , a hot, sand-bearing wind, coming from
8320-408: The battle were baptised and enslaved, and the remaining Saracens in Provence fled the region. Meanwhile, dynastic quarrels continued. A war between Rudolph III of Burgundy and his rival, German emperor Conrad the Salic led in 1032 to Provence becoming a fiefdom of the Holy Roman Empire , which it remained until 1246. In 1112, the last descendant of Boson, Douce I, Countess of Provence , married
8448-421: The capacity to 2 million TEU. Marseille is connected with the Rhône via a canal and thus has access to the extensive waterway network of France. Petroleum is shipped northward to the Paris basin by pipeline. The city also serves as France's leading centre of oil refining. In recent years, the city has also experienced a large growth in service sector employment and a switch from light manufacturing to
8576-434: The cities of Provence, particularly Marseille, continued to rebel against the authority of the Bourbon king. After uprisings in 1630–31 and 1648–1652, the young King Louis XIV had two large forts, fort St. Jean and Fort St. Nicholas, built at the harbour entrance to control the city's unruly population. At the beginning of the 17th century, Cardinal Richelieu began to build a naval arsenal and dockyard at Toulon to serve as
8704-399: The cities of Provence, which were hostile to him, and therefore directed his small force directly to the northeast of it. Marseille Marseille or Marseilles ( French : Marseille ; Provençal Occitan : Marselha ; see below ) is a city in southern France , the prefecture of the department of Bouches-du-Rhône and of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region . Situated in
8832-426: The city at Marignane on the Étang de Berre . The city's main thoroughfare (the wide boulevard called the Canebière ) stretches eastward from the Old Port to the Réformés quarter. Two large forts flank the entrance to the Old Port—Fort Saint-Nicolas on the south side and Fort Saint-Jean on the north. Farther out in the Bay of Marseille is the Frioul archipelago which comprises four islands, one of which, If,
8960-430: The city is not without crime, Marseille has a larger degree of multicultural tolerance. Urban geographers say the city's geography, being surrounded by mountains, helps explain why Marseille does not have the same problems as Paris. In Paris, ethnic areas are segregated and concentrated in the periphery of the city. Residents of Marseille are of diverse origins, yet appear to share a similar particular identity. An example
9088-404: The city of Toulon and the French Riviera . To the north of Marseille, beyond the low Garlaban and Etoile mountain ranges , is the 1,011 m (3,317 ft) Mont Sainte Victoire . To the west of Marseille is the former artists' colony of l'Estaque ; farther west are the Côte Bleue , the Gulf of Lion and the Camargue region in the Rhône delta . The airport lies to the north west of
9216-525: The city since 2000. As of 2019 , the Marseille metropolitan area had a GDP amounting to US$ 81.4 billion , or US$ 43,430 per capita (purchasing power parity). Historically, the economy of Marseille was dominated by its role as a port of the French Empire, linking the North African colonies of Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia with Metropolitan France . The Old Port was replaced as the main port for trade by
9344-517: The city, whereas the National Front has received significant support. At the last municipal election in 2014, Marseille was divided between the northern arrondissements dominated by the left (PS) and far-right (FN) and the southern part of town dominated by the conservative (UMP). Marseille is also divided in twelve cantons , each of them sending two members to the Departmental Council of
9472-531: The city. Due to these policies and the multiculturalism of the city of Marseille, Armenians became very wealthy, and the legacy of the Armenians in the city still lives on. The most commonly used tarot deck takes its name from the city; it has been called the Tarot de Marseille since the 1930s—a name coined for commercial use by the French cardmaker and cartomancer Paul Marteau, owner of B–P Grimaud. Previously this deck
9600-619: The city. The Drachma coins minted in Massalia were found in all parts of Ligurian-Celtic Gaul. Traders from Massalia ventured inland deep into France on the Rivers Durance and Rhône, and established overland trade routes deep into Gaul, and to Switzerland and Burgundy, and as far north as the Baltic Sea. They exported their own products; local wine, salted pork and fish, aromatic and medicinal plants, coral and cork. The Massalians also established
9728-703: The coast of what is now the Bouches-du-Rhône. Traces of these early civilisations can be found in many parts of Provence. A Neolithic site dating to about 6,000 BC was discovered in Marseille near the Saint-Charles railway station . and a dolmen from the Bronze Age (2500–900 BC) can be found near Draguignan . Between the 10th and 4th century BC, the Ligures were found in Provence from Massilia as far as modern Liguria . They were of uncertain origin; they may have been
9856-513: The day and 4 °C (39 °F) at night. July and August are the hottest months, averaging temperatures of around 28–30 °C (82–86 °F) during the day and 19 °C (66 °F) at night in the Marignane airport [35 km (22 mi) from Marseille] but in the city near the sea the average high temperature is 27 °C (81 °F) in July. Marseille receives the most sunlight of any French city, 2,897.6 hours per year on average, while
9984-574: The descendants of the indigenous Neolithic peoples. According to Strabo , the Ligurians, living in proximity to numerous Celtic mountain tribes, were a different people ( ἑτεροεθνεῖς ), but "were similar to the Celts in their modes of life". They did not have their own alphabet, but their language remains in place names in Provence ending in the suffixes - asc , - osc , - inc , - ates , and - auni . The ancient geographer Posidonius wrote of them: "Their country
10112-597: The duke of Provence and the count of Vienne . Hugh moved the capital of Provence from Vienne to Arles and made Provence a fief of Rudolph II of Burgundy . In the 9th century, Arab pirates (called Saracens by the French) and then the Normans invaded Provence. The Normans pillaged the region and then left, but the Saracens built castles and began raiding towns and holding local residents for ransom. The conquering Arabs established
10240-531: The eastern Mediterranean, in about 6000 BC they created the first pottery made in France. Around 6000 BC, a wave of new settlers from the east, the Chasséens , arrived in Provence. They were farmers and warriors, and gradually displaced the earlier pastoral people from their lands. They were followed about 2500 BC by another wave of people, also farmers, known as the Courronniens, who arrived by sea and settled along
10368-449: The emirate of Fraxinet in 887. Early in 973, the Saracens captured Maieul , the abbot of the monastery at Cluny , and held him for ransom. The ransom was paid and the abbot was released, but the people of Provence, led by Count William I , rose up and defeated the Saracens near their most powerful fortress ( La Garde-Freinet ) at the Battle of Tourtour . The Saracens who were not killed in
10496-473: The end of September, the electronic music festival Marsatac takes place. In October, the Fiesta des Suds offers many concerts of world music. Marseille is also well known in France for its hip hop music . Bands like IAM originated from Marseille. Other known groups include Fonky Family , Psy 4 de la Rime (including rappers Soprano and Alonzo ), and Keny Arkana . In a slightly different way, ragga music
10624-531: The end of the 18th century and until the late 1970s, the Opéra . Located near the Old Port and the Canebière, at the very heart of the city, its architectural style was comparable to the classical trend found in other opera houses built at the same time in Lyon and Bordeaux . In 1919, a fire almost completely destroyed the house, leaving only the stone colonnade and peristyle from the original façade. The classical façade
10752-467: The end of the 4th century; Aix-en-Provence in 408; Carpentras , Avignon , Riez , Cimiez (today part of Nice ) and Vence in 439; Antibes in 442; Toulon in 451; Senez in 406, Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux in 517; and Glandèves in 541. The oldest Christian structure still surviving in Provence is the baptistery of the Fréjus Cathedral , dating from the 5th century. At about the same time,
10880-599: The end of the reign of Louis XIV . The plague struck the region between 1720 and 1722, beginning in Marseille, killing some 40,000 people. Still, by the end of the century, many artisanal industries began to flourish; making perfumes in Grasse ; olive oil in Aix and the Alpilles ; textiles in Orange, Avignon and Tarascon; and faience pottery in Marseille, Apt, Aubagne , and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie . Many immigrants arrived from Liguria and
11008-627: The first fireplaces in Europe were found at Terra Amata in Nice. Tools dating to the Middle Paleolithic (300,000 BC) and Upper Paleolithic (30,000–10,000 BC) were discovered in the Observatory Cave, in the Jardin Exotique of Monaco . The Paleolithic period in Provence saw great changes in the climate. Two ice ages came and went, and the sea level changed dramatically. At the beginning of
11136-664: The first two monasteries in Provence were founded: Lérins Abbey , on the island of Saint-Honorat near Cannes, and Abbey of St Victor in Marseille. Beginning in the second half of the 5th century, as Roman power waned, successive waves of Germanic tribes entered Provence: first the Visigoths (480), then the Ostrogoths , then the Burgundians , finally, the Franks in the 6th century. Arab invaders and Berber pirates came from North Africa to
11264-632: The forces of Charles Martel against the Umayyad Arabs . It became part of the County of Provence during the tenth century, although its renewed prosperity was curtailed by the Black Death of the 14th century and a sack of the city by the Crown of Aragon in 1423. The city's fortunes rebounded with the ambitious building projects of René of Anjou , Count of Provence, who strengthened the city's fortifications during
11392-811: The heiress of Provence, Beatrice . Provence's fortunes became tied to the Angevin Dynasty and the Kingdom of Naples. In 1309, Pope Clement V , who was originally from Bordeaux, moved the Papal Curia to Avignon, a period known as the Avignon Papacy . From 1309 until 1377, seven popes reigned in Avignon before the Schism between the Roman and Avignon churches, which led to the creation of rival popes in both places. After that, three antipopes reigned in Avignon until 1423, when
11520-713: The independence of Algeria in 1962). A quarter of the immigrants living in the Marseille metropolitan area were born in Europe (half of them in Italy, Portugal, and Spain), 46% were born in the Maghreb (almost two-third of them in Algeria), 14% in the rest of Africa (almost half of them in the Indian Ocean islands of Comoros , Madagascar , and Mauritius , not counting those born in Réunion and Mayotte who are not legally immigrants), and 15.0% in
11648-508: The last serious resistance in 102 BC by defeating the Cimbri and the Teutons . He then began building roads to facilitate troop movements and commerce between Rome, Spain and Northern Europe; one from the coast inland to Apt and Tarascon , and the other along the coast from Italy to Spain, passing through Fréjus and Aix-en-Provence. In 49 BC, Massalia had the misfortune to choose the wrong side in
11776-527: The last ten years of his life, from 1470 to 1480, and his political policies of territorial expansion were costly and unsuccessful. Provence benefitted from population growth and economic expansion, and René was a generous patron of the arts, sponsoring painters Nicolas Froment , Louis Bréa , and other masters. He also completed one of the finest castles in Provence at Tarascon , on the Rhône river. When René died in 1480, his title passed to his nephew Charles du Maine . One year later, in 1481, when Charles died,
11904-653: The local daily newspaper ; RTM, Marseille's public transport company; and Société Nationale Maritime Corse Méditerranée (SNCM), a major provider of passenger, vehicle and freight transportation in the Western Mediterranean. The urban operation Euroméditerranée has developed a large offer of offices and thus Marseille hosts one of the main business district in France. Marseille is the home of three main technopoles : Château-Gombert (technological innovations), Luminy (biotechnology) and La Belle de Mai (17,000 sq.m. of offices dedicated to multimedia activities). The port
12032-593: The local tribes, who were still armed with bronze weapons. One tribe, called the Segobriga , settled near modern-day Marseille. The Caturiges, Tricastins, and Cavares settled to the west of the Durance river. Celts and Ligurians spread throughout the area and the Celto-Ligures eventually shared the territory of Provence, each tribe in its own alpine valley or settlement along a river, each with its own king and dynasty. They built hilltop forts and settlements, later given
12160-563: The main river of Provence, the Rhodanos, today known as the Rhône. The first permanent Greek settlement was Massalia , established at modern-day Marseille in about 600 BC by colonists coming from Phocaea (now Foça , on the Aegean coast of Asia Minor ). A second wave of colonists arrived in about 540 BC, when Phocaea was destroyed by the Persians . Massalia became one of the major trading ports of
12288-516: The maritime economy are major poles of regional and national activity and Marseille remains the first French port, the second Mediterranean port and the fifth European port. Since its origins, Marseille's openness to the Mediterranean Sea has made it a cosmopolitan city marked by cultural and economic exchanges with Southern Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and Asia. In Europe, the city has
12416-627: The mid-15th century. During the 16th century, the city hosted a naval fleet with the combined forces of the Franco-Ottoman alliance , which threatened the ports and navies of the Genoese Republic . Marseille lost a significant portion of its population during the Great Plague of Marseille in 1720, but the population had recovered by mid-century. In 1792, the city became a focal point of the French Revolution , and though France's national anthem
12544-415: The mid-17th century onwards, were successfully exported to England, Spain, Italy, Germany and the Netherlands. There was considerable commerce along the coast, and up and down the Rhône river. The cities: Marseille, Toulon , Avignon and Aix-en-Provence, saw the construction of boulevards and richly decorated private houses. At the beginning of the 18th century, Provence suffered from the economic malaise of
12672-456: The name County of Nice . The 15th century saw a series of wars between the kings of Aragon and the counts of Provence. In 1423 the army of Alphonse of Aragon captured Marseille, and in 1443 they captured Naples, and forced its ruler, King René I of Naples , to flee. He eventually settled in one of his remaining territories, Provence. History and legend has given René the title "Good King René of Provence", though he only lived in Provence in
12800-561: The northern part of the Alpilles , of which it is the main town, it had a population of 9,692 as of 2020. The town, which has been inhabited since prehistory , was named after Saint Remigius under the Latin name Villa Sancti Remigii . From May 1889 to May 1890, Vincent van Gogh was a patient at the Saint-Paul Asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, and painted some of his most memorable works , including The Starry Night , which features
12928-497: The papacy finally returned to Rome. Between 1334 and 1363 the old and new Papal Palaces of Avignon were built by Popes Benedict XII and Clement VI respectively; together the Palais des Papes was the largest Gothic palace in Europe. The 14th century was a terrible time in Provence, and all of Europe: the population of Provence had been about 400,000 people; the Black Death (1348–1350) killed fifteen thousand people in Arles, half
13056-512: The poorest remained. For a while, the mafia appeared to run the city, and for a period of time the communist party was prominent. Multi-cultural Marseille can be observed by a visitor at the market at Noailles, also called Marché des Capucins, in old town near the Old Port. There, Lebanese bakeries, an African spice market, Chinese and Vietnamese groceries, fresh vegetables and fruit, shops selling couscous, shops selling Caribbean food are side by side with stalls selling shoes and clothing from around
13184-525: The population of the city, and greatly reduced the population of the whole region. The defeat of the French Army during the Hundred Years' War forced the cities of Provence to build walls and towers to defend themselves against armies of former soldiers who ravaged the countryside. The Angevin rulers of Provence also had a difficult time. An assembly of nobles, religious leaders, and town leaders of Provence
13312-898: The power struggle between Pompey and Julius Caesar . Pompey was defeated, and Massalia lost its territories and political influence. Roman veterans, in the meantime, populated two new towns, Arles and Fréjus, at the sites of older Greek settlements. In 8 BC the Emperor Augustus built a triumphal monument at La Turbie to commemorate the pacification of the region, and he began to Romanize Provence politically and culturally. Roman engineers and architects built monuments, theatres, baths, villas, fora, arenas and aqueducts , many of which still exist. (See Architecture of Provence .) Roman towns were built at Cavaillon ; Orange ; Arles ; Fréjus ; Glanum (outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ); Carpentras ; Vaison-la-Romaine ; Nîmes ; Vernègues ; Saint-Chamas and Cimiez (above Nice). The Roman province, which
13440-567: The preeminent Greek polis in the Hellenized region of southern Gaul . The city-state sided with the Roman Republic against Carthage during the Second Punic War (218–201 BC), retaining its independence and commercial empire throughout the western Mediterranean even as Rome expanded its empire into Western Europe and North Africa . However, the city lost its independence following
13568-570: The pronunciation and spelling. The coast of Provence has some of the earliest known sites of human habitation in Europe. Primitive stone tools dating back 1 to 1.05 million years BC have been found in the Grotte du Vallonnet near Roquebrune-Cap-Martin , between Monaco and Menton . More sophisticated tools, worked on both sides of the stone and dating to 600,000 BC, were found in the Cave of Escale at Saint-Estève-Janson ; tools from 400,000 BC and some of
13696-417: The region. Traders from the island of Rhodes were visiting the coast of Provence in the 7th century BC. Rhodes pottery from that century has been found in Marseille, near Martigues and Istres, and at Mont Garou and Evenos near Toulon . The traders from Rhodes gave their names to the ancient town of Rhodanousia ( Ancient Greek : 'Ροδανουσίαν ) (now Trinquetaille , across the Rhône river from Arles), and to
13824-451: The regional economy. 100 million tons of freight pass annually through the port, 60% of which is petroleum, making it number one in France and the Mediterranean and number three in Europe. However, in the early 2000s, the growth in container traffic was being stifled by the constant strikes and social upheaval. The port is among the 20th firsts in Europe for container traffic with 1,062,408 TEU and new infrastructure has already raised
13952-934: The rest of the world (not counting those born in the French overseas departments of the Americas and in the French territories of the South Pacific, who are not legally immigrants). In 2002, about one third of the population of Marseille can trace their roots back to Italy. Marseille also has the second-largest Corsican and Armenian populations of France. Other significant communities include Maghrebis , Turks , Comorians , Chinese, and Vietnamese . The largest immigrant communities (including descendants) in 2002 were Italians (290,000 Italians, or 33%), then Muslims - mainly Maghrebis (200,000 Muslims, or 23%), then Corsicans (100,000 Corsicans, or 11.5%), then Armenians (80,000 Armenians, or 9%). In 1999, in several arrondissements, about 40% of
14080-453: The rest of the world brought several other waves of immigrants during the 20th century: Greeks and Italians started arriving at the end of the 19th century and in the first half of the 20th century, up to 40% of the city's population was of Italian origin; Russians in 1917; Armenians in 1915 and 1923; Vietnamese in the 1920s, 1954 and after 1975; Corsicans during the 1920s and 1930s; Spanish after 1936; Maghrebis (both Arab and Berber ) in
14208-404: The sector councils and one third in the city council. The 9th arrondissement of Marseille is the largest in terms of area because it comprises parts of Calanques National Park . With a population of 89,316 (2007), the 13th arrondissement of Marseille is the most populous one. From 1950 to the mid-1990s, Marseille was a Socialist (PS) and Communist (PCF) stronghold. Gaston Defferre (PS)
14336-400: The south of France with high concentration of museums, cinemas, theatres, clubs, bars, restaurants, fashion shops, hotels, and art galleries . Unemployment in the economy fell from 20% in 1995 to 14% in 2004. However, Marseille unemployment rate remains higher than the national average. In some parts of Marseille, youth unemployment is reported to be as high as 40%. The city of Marseille
14464-474: The streets of Paris. Napoleon restored the belongings and power of the families of the Ancien Régime in Provence. The British fleet of Admiral Horatio Nelson blockaded Toulon, and almost all maritime commerce was stopped, causing hardship and poverty. When Napoleon was defeated, his fall was celebrated in Provence. When he escaped from Elba on 1 March 1815, and landed at Golfe-Juan , he detoured to avoid
14592-594: The third largest Jewish community after London and Paris . In the 1990s, the Euroméditerranée project for economic development and urban renewal was launched. New infrastructure projects and renovations were carried out in the 2000s and 2010s: the tramway , the renovation of the Hôtel-Dieu into a luxury hotel, the expansion of the Velodrome Stadium , the CMA CGM Tower , as well as other quayside museums such as
14720-445: The title passed to Louis XI of France . Provence was legally incorporated into the French royal domain in 1486. Soon after Provence became part of France, it became involved in the Wars of Religion that swept the country in the 16th century. Between 1493 and 1501, many Jews were expelled from their homes and sought sanctuary in the region of Avignon, which was still under the direct rule of
14848-415: The town. Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is situated about 20 km (12 mi) south of Avignon , just north of the Alpilles mountain range. The Avignon TGV high-speed train station is 20 km (12 mi) from the city. The closest airports are serving the cities of Avignon, Nîmes and Marseille. Also, there are several highways and main roads which serve Saint-Rémy. The A7 autoroute , which runs down
14976-435: The young people under 18 were of Maghrebi origin (at least one immigrant parent). Since 2013 a significant number of Central- and Eastern European immigrants have settled in Marseille, attracted by better job opportunities and the good climate of this Mediterranean city. The main nationalities of the immigrants are Romanian and Polish. According to data from 2010, major religious communities in Marseille include: Marseille
15104-735: Was besieged, and many of the soldiers inside were massacred. On 17 October 1791, a massacre of royalists and religious figures took place in the ice storage rooms ( glacières ) of the prison of the Palace of the Popes in Avignon. When the radical Montagnards seized power from the Girondins in May 1793, a real counter-revolution broke out in Avignon, Marseille and Toulon. A revolutionary army under General Carteaux recaptured Marseille in August 1793 and renamed it "City without
15232-708: Was born in Strasbourg , it was first sung in Paris by volunteers from Marseille, hence the name the crowd gave it: La Marseillaise . The Industrial Revolution and establishment of the Second French colonial empire during the 19th century allowed for the further expansion of the city, although it was occupied by the German Wehrmacht in November 1942 and subsequently heavily damaged during World War II . The city has since become
15360-500: Was called Gallia Narbonensis , for its capital, Narbo (modern Narbonne), extended from Italy to Spain, from the Alps to the Pyrenees . The Pax Romana in Provence lasted until the middle of the 3rd century. Germanic tribes invaded Provence in 257 and 275. At the beginning the 4th century, the court of Roman Emperor Constantine (ca. 272–337) was forced to take refuge in Arles. By the end of
15488-535: Was called Tarot italien (Italian Tarot) and even earlier it was simply called Tarot. Before being de Marseille , it was used to play the local variant of tarocchi before it became used in cartomancy at the end of the 18th century, following the trend set by Antoine Court de Gébelin . The name Tarot de Marseille (Marteau used the name ancien Tarot de Marseille ) was used by contrast to other types of Tarots such as Tarot de Besançon ; those names were simply associated with cities where there were many cardmakers in
15616-535: Was consecutively reelected six times as Mayor of Marseille from 1953 until his death in 1986. He was succeeded by Robert Vigouroux of the European Democratic and Social Rally (RDSE). Jean-Claude Gaudin of the conservative UMP was elected Mayor of Marseille in 1995. Gaudin was reelected in 2001, 2008 and 2014. In recent years, the Communist Party has lost most of its strength in the northern boroughs of
15744-465: Was granted to them by Shah Abbas of Iran, the trade flow of Armenians of Marseille increased tremendously. Merchants of Armenian origin received trade privileges in France by Armand Jean du Plessis de Richelieu (1585–1642) and later on Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619–1683) Marseille a free port in 1669. One notable Armenian-Iranian merchant gained a patent from Louis XIV (1638–1715) over Iranian silk. Armenians also became successful money-lenders and bankers in
15872-492: Was organised to resist the authority of Queen Joan I of Naples (1343–1382). She was murdered in 1382 by her cousin and heir, Charles of Durazzo , who started a new war, leading to the separation of Nice , Puget-Théniers and Barcelonnette from Provence in 1388, and their attachment to the County of Savoy . From 1388 up to 1526, the area acquired by the Savoy was known as Terres Neuves de Provence ; after 1526 it officially took on
16000-559: Was part of the empire of Charlemagne (742–814). In 879, after the death of the Carolingian ruler Charles the Bald , Boso of Provence (also known as Boson), his brother-in-law, broke away from the Carolingian kingdom of Louis III and was elected the first ruler of an independent state of Provence. Three different dynasties of counts ruled Provence during the Middle Ages, and Provence became
16128-453: Was restored and the opera house reconstructed in a predominantly Art Deco style, as the result of a major competition. Currently the Opéra de Marseille stages six or seven operas each year. Since 1972, the Ballet national de Marseille has performed at the opera house; its director from its foundation to 1998 was Roland Petit . There are several popular festivals in different neighborhoods, with concerts, animations, and outdoor bars, like
16256-452: Was the first scientist to describe drift ice and the midnight sun. Though he hoped to establish a sea trading route for tin from Cornwall , his trip was not a commercial success, and it was not repeated. The Massalians found it cheaper and simpler to trade with Northern Europe over land routes. In the 2nd century BC the people of Massalia appealed to Rome for help against the Ligures. Roman legions entered Provence three times; first in 181 BC
16384-424: Was the mathematician, astronomer and navigator Pytheas . Pytheas made mathematical instruments which allowed him to establish almost exactly the latitude of Marseille, and he was the first scientist to observe that the tides were connected with the phases of the moon. Between 330 and 320 BC he organised an expedition by ship into the Atlantic and as far north as England, and to visit Iceland , Shetland, and Norway. He
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