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Royal Robbins

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Royal Robbins (February 3, 1935 – March 14, 2017) was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing . After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock , he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite . As an early proponent of boltless, pitonless clean climbing , he, along with Yvon Chouinard , was instrumental in changing the climbing culture of the late 1960s and early 1970s by encouraging the use and preservation of the natural features of the rock. He went on to become a well-known kayaker .

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51-551: Robbins was born in 1935 and grew up in trailer parks in Southern California. Robbins first began to climb in the early 1950s at the nearby Tahquitz Peak . At age 17 in 1952 he climbed the now famous Open Book route up Tahquitz. In 1957, he was among a trio of climbers who ascended the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome at Yosemite National Park . In 1971, Robbins completed the second ascent, with Don Lauria, of

102-431: A 1901 USGS San Jacinto topographical map . Two nearby rock climbing locations are Tahquitz Rock and Suicide Rock . Tahquitz Rock (also known as Lily Rock ) is 0.45 miles (0.72 km) to the northwest of the summit of Tahquitz Peak. It is said to have a lily-white appearance, which might account for the “Lily” name. Another theory is that it was named for Lily Eastman who was the daughter of Dr. Sanford Eastman,

153-559: A 2350 ft. elevation gain. The peak can be reached from the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway via a ten-mile hike with rolling hills and various ascents and descents. Tahquitz Peak is used as a fire lookout in the late spring to mid fall, using a two-man ranger station with 270-degree panoramic views. The area was named after the legendary luminous spirit-demon of the Soboba Indian tribe . The name first appeared in print on

204-440: A clean-climbing ethic. In a section of Advanced Rockcraft called Values , he described his climbing philosophy. He believes that "a first ascent is a creation in the same sense as is a painting or a song", and that choosing a climbing line may well be "an act of brilliant creativity". Another creative aspect of a first ascent involves the aids that the leader of the climb rejects. With modern technology of aid climbing available,

255-527: A climb using more stringent standards than used on the first ascent. In Robbins' view, the decision to place a single piton is a matter of "enormous importance" because "like a single word in a poem, it can affect the entire composition". In 1978, Robbins developed psoriatic arthritis , which prevented serious climbing. He took up adventure kayaking instead, completing first descents of challenging rivers from high mountain elevations. His early kayaking partners included Doug Tompkins and Reg Lake . In 1980,

306-493: A copy of that variant from each parent, but this is true of about two-thirds of the general population. Therefore, the H1 haplotype appears to be necessary but not sufficient to cause PSP. Other genes, as well as environmental toxins , are being investigated as other possible contributors to the cause of PSP. Additionally, the H2 haplotype , combined with vascular dysfunction, seems to be

357-637: A factor of vascular progressive supranuclear palsy. Besides tauopathy , mitochondrial dysfunction seems to be a factor involved in PSP. Especially, mitochondrial complex I inhibitors (such as acetogenins and quinolines contained in Annonaceae plants, as well as rotenoids ) are implicated in PSP-like brain injuries. The affected brain cells are both neurons and glial cells . The neurons display neurofibrillary tangles (NFTs), which are clumps of tau protein ,

408-410: A first ascent is more artistic if it consciously rejects the use of certain climbing aids that are not essential to the success of the climb. He places emphasis on using equipment which is non-destructive to the mountain environment. He opposes climbs done outside the accepted mores of a given climbing center, or the prevailing style of an area. He favors what he calls "upward variations", or completing

459-518: A first ascent of "The Mechanic's Route", one of the first 5.8s in the country. During the late 1930s, the movie Three on a Rope featured climbing at Tahquitz. By 1940, about a dozen routes had been established. World War II slowed down development, but activity soon picked back up and fresh faces were seen at Tahquitz. Royal Robbins , a prominent member of the RCS, led the new surge in Tahquitz development in

510-399: A lack of inhibition , anxiety , and a profound state of unease or dissatisfaction . Later symptoms and signs can include, but do not necessarily include dementia (typically including loss of inhibition and ability to organize information), slurring of speech , difficulty swallowing , and difficulty moving the eyes , particularly in the vertical direction. The latter accounts for some of

561-675: A local who frequented Yosemite, passed this system on to the climbers in Yosemite. By the early 1960s, the Yosemite Decimal System was the standard in the United States. In 1967, Bob Kamps and Mark Powell established "Chingadera" one of the first 5.11 in the country and setting a new standard in rock climbing. Most climbers, after the 1970s, considered the area "climbed out" in terms of potential new first ascents. Still, new and quality climbs continued to be added on Tahquitz as well as

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612-536: A normal part of a brain cell's internal structural skeleton. These tangles are often different from those seen in Alzheimer's disease, but may be structurally similar when they occur in the cerebral cortex. Their chemical composition is usually different, however, and is similar to that of tangles seen in corticobasal degeneration . Tufts of tau protein in astrocytes , or tufted astrocytes, are also considered diagnostic. Unlike globose NFTs, they may be more widespread in

663-433: A wheelchair. Severe dysphagia often follows, and at this point death is often a matter of months. No effective treatment or cure has been found for PSP, although some of the symptoms can respond to nonspecific measures. The poor prognosis is predominantly attributed to the serious impact this condition has on the quality of life. The average age at symptoms onset is 63 and survival from onset averages seven years with

714-480: A wide variance. Pneumonia is a frequent cause of death, often caused by accidental aspiration of food particles. In 1877, Charcot described a 40-year-old woman who had rigid-akinetic parkinsonism, neck dystonia, dysarthria, and eye-movement problems. In 1951, Chavany and others reported the clinical and pathologic features of a 50-year-old man with a rigid and akinetic form of parkinsonism with postural instability, neck dystonia, dysarthria, and staring gaze. In 1974,

765-415: A wide-eye stare, furrowing of forehead with a frowning expression, and deepening of other facial creases, is also diagnostic of PSP. The cause of PSP is unknown. Fewer than 1% of those with PSP have a family member with the same disorder. A variant in the gene for tau protein called the H1 haplotype , located on chromosome 17 ( rs1800547 ), has been linked to PSP. Nearly all people with PSP received

816-425: Is a late-onset neurodegenerative disease involving the gradual deterioration and death of specific volumes of the brain . The condition leads to symptoms including loss of balance , slowing of movement , difficulty moving the eyes , and cognitive impairment . PSP may be mistaken for other types of neurodegeneration such as Parkinson's disease , frontotemporal dementia and Alzheimer's disease . The cause of

867-477: Is also sometimes helpful. After a few years the Parkinsonian variant tends to take on Richardson features. Other variants have been described. Botox can be used to treat neck dystonia and blepharospasm , but this can aggravate dysphagia . Two studies have suggested that rivastigmine may help with cognitive aspects, but the authors of both studies have suggested that larger studies are needed. There

918-474: Is characterized by the typical features of PSP. In PSP-P features of Parkinson’s Disease overlap with the clinical presentation of PSP and follows a more benign course. In both PSP-P and PSP- PAGF distribution of abnormal tau is relatively restricted to the brain stem. Frontal PSP initially presents with behavioral and cognitive symptoms, with or without ophthalmoparesis and then evolve into typical PSP. The phenotypes of PSP-P and PSP-PAGF are sometimes referred as

969-532: Is especially useful for diagnosing progressive supranuclear palsy, because these movements set PSP patients apart from other parkinsonian patients. Difficulties with convergence (convergence insufficiency), where the eyes come closer together while focusing on something near, like the pages of a book, is typical. Because the eyes have trouble coming together to focus at short distances, the patient may complain of diplopia (double vision) when reading. A characteristic facial appearance known as procerus sign , with

1020-491: Is frequently misdiagnosed as Parkinson's disease because they both involve slowed movements and gait difficulty, with PSP being one of a collection of diseases referred to as Parkinson plus syndromes . Both Parkinson's and PSP have an onset in late middle age and involve slowing and rigidity of movement. However, several distinguishing features exist. Tremor is very common with Parkinson's, but rare with PSP. Speech and swallowing difficulties are more common and severe with PSP and

1071-401: Is some evidence from small-scale studies that the hypnotic zolpidem may improve motor function and eye movements. Patients with PSP usually seek or are referred to occupational therapy , speech-language pathology for motor speech changes (typically a spastic-ataxic dysarthria ), and physical therapy for balance and gait problems with reports of frequent falls. There has been research in

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1122-665: The Sierra Club in California started a campaign to identify potential rock climbing locations in southern California. RCS member Jim Smith "discovered" Tahquitz in June 1935. The first fifth-class ascent of Tahquitz, "The Trough" ( class 5.4 ), occurred in August 1936 by Jim Smith, Bob Brinton , and Zene Jasaitis. A month later, Smith and Bill Rice quickly put up the now-classic route, "Angel's Fright" (5.6). In 1937, Dick Jones and Glen Dawson led

1173-438: The "brain stem" variants of PSP, as opposed to the "cortical" variants which present with predominant cortical features, including PSP-CBS, PSP-bvFTD, and PSP-PNFA. Cerebellar ataxia as the predominant early presenting feature is increasingly recognized as a very rare subtype of PSP (PSP-C) which is associated with severe neuronal loss with gliosis and higher densities of coiled bodies in the cerebellar dentate nucleus . PSP

1224-412: The 1950s. This new group of climbers eschewed some of the time-honored safety techniques of the past, which led to harder and harder climbs being developed, culminating with "The Vampire" in 1959. Though Robbins and Dave Rearick climbed it via aid technique (5.9 A3/4), it was free climbed in 1973 (5.11a) by John Long et al. and is now considered one of the best free climbs in southern California. With

1275-476: The Dawn Wall on El Capitan , with the (controversial) intention of erasing the route as they climbed it. Their ascent closely followed the 1970 first ascent by Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell, completed with protective bolts – a method that offended Robbins and other clean climbing advocates. Harding had left all his bolts in the rock; Robbins and Lauria used the bolts to repeat the climb; and Robbins then chopped

1326-706: The European outdoor retailers Globetrotter, Naturkompaniet, Friluftsland and Partioaitta. Liz Robbins rejoined the company in December 2015 as a senior advisor. Tahquitz Peak Tahquitz Peak (pronounced / t ɑː ˈ k w iː t s / , sometimes / ˈ t ɑː k ɪ t s / ) is a granite, 8,846-foot-tall (2,696 m) rock formation located on the high western slope of the San Jacinto mountain range in Riverside County , Southern California , United States, above

1377-615: The abnormal eye movements of PSP are essentially absent with PD. A poor response to levodopa , along with symmetrical onset can also help differentiate PSP from PD. Patients with the Richardson variant of PSP tend to have an upright posture or arched back , as opposed to the stooped-forward posture of other Parkinsonian disorders, although PSP-Parkinsonism (see below) can demonstrate a stooped posture. Early falls are also more common with PSP, especially with Richardson syndrome. PSP can also be misdiagnosed as Alzheimer's disease because of

1428-451: The behavioral changes. Chronic traumatic encephalopathy (CTE) shows many similarities with PSP, because both share the following attributes: Management is only supportive as no cure for PSP is known. PSP cases are often split into two subgroups, PSP-Richardson (the classic type) and PSP-Parkinsonism, where a short-term response to levodopa can be obtained. Dyskinesia is an occasional but rare complication of treatment. Amantadine

1479-527: The cause of death was progressive supranuclear palsy . Following his success as a climber, Robbins founded an eponymous outdoor apparel company with his wife Liz Robbins. Royal Robbins, LLC Royal Robbins LLC is a San Francisco based clothing company specializing in outdoor and travel focused attire. Following his death, in 2018 the company was bought by the Swedish company Fenix Outdoor International AG, which also owns brands Fjällräven , Tierra and Hanwag as well as

1530-848: The condition is uncertain, but involves the accumulation of tau protein within the brain. Medications such as levodopa and amantadine may be useful in some cases. PSP affects about six people per 100,000. The first symptoms typically occur at 60–70 years of age. Males are slightly more likely to be affected than females. No association has been found between PSP and any particular race, location, or occupation. The initial symptoms in two-thirds of cases are loss of balance, lunging forward when mobilizing, fast walking, bumping into objects or people, and falls. Dementia symptoms are also initially seen in about one in five cases. Other common early symptoms are changes in personality, general slowing of movement, and visual symptoms. The most common behavioural symptoms in patients with PSP include apathy ,

1581-460: The cortex. Lewy bodies are seen in some cases, but whether this is a variant or an independent co-existing process is not clear, and in some cases, PSP can coexist with corticobasal degeneration , Parkinson's, and/or Alzheimer's disease , particularly with older patients. The principal areas of the brain affected are the: Some consider PSP, corticobasal degeneration , and frontotemporal dementia (especially FTDP-17 ) to be variations of

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1632-466: The diagnosis of this disorder. Patients typically complain of difficulty reading due to the inability to look downwards. The ophthalmoparesis experienced by these patients mainly concerns voluntary eye movement and the inability to make vertical saccades , which is often worse with downward saccades. Patients tend to have difficulty looking down (a downgaze palsy ) followed by the addition of an upgaze palsy. This vertical gaze paresis will correct when

1683-685: The examiner passively rolls the patient's head up and down as part of a test for the oculocephalic reflex . Involuntary eye movement, as elicited by Bell's phenomenon , for instance, may be closer to normal. On close inspection, eye movements called "square-wave jerks" may be visible when the patient fixes gaze at distance. These are fine movements, that can be mistaken for nystagmus , except that they are saccadic in nature, with no smooth phase. Although healthy individuals also make square-wave jerk movements, PSP patients make slower square-wave jerk movements, with smaller vertical components. Assessment of these square-wave jerks and diminished vertical saccades

1734-428: The falls experienced by these patients, as they find it difficult to look up or down. Some of the other signs are poor eyelid function, contracture of the facial muscles , a backward tilt of the head with stiffening of the neck muscles , sleep disruption , urinary incontinence , and constipation . Some patients retain full cognitive function up to the end. The visual symptoms are of particular importance in

1785-528: The first Secretary and a Director of the "Southern California Colony Association" which later became the city of Riverside . Suicide Rock is 1.6 miles (2.6 km) to the northwest. Over three hundred climbing routes have been described there. In 2018, the Cranston Fire burned up the south face of Tahquitz Peak and threatened the fire lookout. In the 1930s, the Rock Climbing Section (RCS) of

1836-437: The heads off the bolts behind them. After two pitches, Robbins stopped chopping the bolts because (according to Lauria) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." Robbins authored two seminal books, Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft , which emphasized free climbing skills and

1887-555: The help of new climbing shoe designs, route development in the 1960s jumped well into 5.10 territory. Nearby Suicide Rock also started to be developed, resulting in another southern California classic, "Valhalla" (5.11a) in November 1970. The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) of classifying routes was developed at Tahquitz by members of the RCS of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club in the 1950s. Royal Robbins in 1952 established what

1938-452: The individual’s risk of falls and makes them safer to ambulate independently in the community. Due to their balance problems and irregular movements, individuals need to spend time learning how to safely transfer in their homes and in the community. This may include rising from and sitting in chairs safely. Due to the progressive nature of this disease, all individuals eventually lose their ability to walk and will need to progress to using

1989-621: The largest and steepest of these three High Sierra descents. In 1983, Robbins descended the Tuolumne River in Yosemite National Park from Tuolumne Meadows to Hetch Hetchy Reservoir . He was accompanied by Reg Lake, Chuck Stanley, Lars Holbek, John Armstrong and Richard Montgomery. He then developed an interest in descending smaller mountain creeks by kayak during their flood stage following heavy rains. His first such project in May, 1984

2040-427: The management of PSP. Individuals with PSP are often referred to occupational therapists to help manage their condition and to help enhance their independence. This may include being taught to use mobility aids . Due to their tendency to fall backwards, the use of a walker, particularly one that can be weighted in the front, is recommended instead of a cane. The use of an appropriate mobility aid helps to decrease

2091-489: The mountain town of Idyllwild . Tahquitz has a steep approach hike (approximately 800-foot elevation gain in a half mile), leading to a roughly 1000-foot face. Tahquitz, which can refer to both the rock outcrop and the outcrop's parent peak, is a popular hiking destination to the fire lookout station and the rock climbing area. The Yosemite Decimal System , widely used in North America to classify hiking and climbing routes,

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2142-424: The neck muscles. While some case reports suggest that physiotherapy can offer improvements in balance and gait of patients with PSP, the results cannot be generalized across all PSP patients, as each case report followed only one or two patients. The observations made from these case studies can be useful however, in helping to guide future research concerning the effectiveness of balance and gait training programs in

2193-428: The same disease. Others consider them separate diseases. PSP has been shown occasionally to co-exist with Pick's disease . Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) is often used to diagnose PSP. MRI may show atrophy in the midbrain with preservation of the pons giving a "hummingbird" sign. Based on the pathological findings in confirmed cases of PSP, it is divided into the following categories: Richardson syndrome

2244-498: The smaller rock outcrops nearby, Bob Gaines having established many of them. The Idyllwild Area Historical Society museum contains a wealth of information about the early climbing history of Tahquitz and Suicide Rock. The plant Ivesia callida is endemic to the San Jacinto Range and is known by the common name Tahquitz mousetail. 2022: Progressive supranuclear palsy Progressive supranuclear palsy ( PSP )

2295-779: The three descended the San Joaquin River Gorge from Devil's Postpile to the Mammoth Pool Reservoir, 5000 feet lower and 32 miles away. In 1981, they carried their kayaks over Mount Whitney Pass at 13,777 foot elevation, into Sequoia National Park and descended 55 miles down the Kern Trench . In 1982, joined by Neusom Holmes, they descended the Middle Fork of the Kings River in Kings Canyon National Park ,

2346-414: The unique frontal lobe cognitive changes of progressive supranuclear palsy: apathy, loss of spontaneity, slowing of thought processes, and loss of executive functions , were first described by Albert and colleagues. Between 1877 and 1963, 22 well-documented case reports of PSP, although not described as a distinct disorder, had been identified in the literature of neurology. Progressive supranuclear palsy

2397-478: The use of robot-assisted gait training. Evidence-based approaches to rehabilitation in PSP are lacking and, currently the majority of research on the subject consists of case reports involving only a small number of patients. Case reports of rehabilitation programs for patients with PSP generally include limb-coordination activities, tilt-board balancing, gait training , strength training with progressive resistive exercises, and isokinetic exercises and stretching of

2448-730: Was developed into its modern form at Tahquitz Peak. Tahquitz Peak can be reached from one of several trails, and is only a half-mile deviation from the Pacific Crest Trail . The most direct route is the South Ridge trail starting in Idyllwild, California . This trail is a direct hike to the peak and is typically used as an "out and back" route, four miles in length, featuring a 2400 ft. elevation gain. Tahquitz Peak can also be achieved via Devil's Slide Trail in Idyllwild, 4.8 miles one way, with

2499-444: Was first described as a distinct disorder by neurologists John Steele, John Richardson, and Jerzy Olszewski in 1963. They recognized the same clinical syndrome in eight patients, and described the autopsy findings in six of them. There are several organizations around the world that support PSP patients and the research into PSP and related diseases, such as corticobasal degeneration (CBD) and multiple system atrophy (MSA). In

2550-653: Was the descent of Sespe Creek , which runs through the Los Padres National Forest . He was accompanied by Yvon Chouinard , Reg Lake, John Wasserman and Jackson Frischman. Robbins called this type of trip "flash boating", and later used the technique on the Fresno River , the Chowchilla River and the middle fork of the Mokelumne River . Robbins died on March 14, 2017 at the age of 82. His daughter said

2601-424: Was then one of the hardest free climbs in the United States, known as "Open Book" . As new routes were constantly being discovered and climbed, the old method of rating climbs as either easy, moderate, or hard was quickly becoming useless. With the help of fellow RCS members Don Wilson and Chuck Wilts , the modern system of rating fifth-class climbing was developed, with the scale running from 5.0 to 5.9. Mark Powell,

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