Realization , also called Biographie , is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on an overhanging limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer , in France . After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma , it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.
22-553: (Redirected from Realisation ) [REDACTED] Look up realization in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Realization or realisation may refer to: Realization (Eddie Henderson album) , a 1973 album by Eddie Henderson Realization (Johnny Rivers album) , a 1968 album by Johnny Rivers Realization (climb) , a sport climbing route in Ceüse, France Realization (figured bass) ,
44-405: A 1968 album by Johnny Rivers Realization (climb) , a sport climbing route in Ceüse, France Realization (figured bass) , the creating of a musical accompaniment from a figured bass Realization (finance) , the pricing of security at market value Realization (linguistics) , the production of an actual form in a human language from an abstract representation Realization (metrology) ,
66-403: A physical form of a measurement standard Realization (probability) , an actually observed value of random variable Realization (systems) , a state space model implementing a given input-output behavior Realization (tax) , one of the principles for defining income for tax purposes in the U.S. Realization of an apeirogon , a mapping of an abstract apeirogon "Realization" ( Tales of
88-630: A state space model implementing a given input-output behavior Realization (tax) , one of the principles for defining income for tax purposes in the U.S. Realization of an apeirogon , a mapping of an abstract apeirogon "Realization" ( Tales of the Empire ) , an episode of Tales of the Empire See also [ edit ] Realize (disambiguation) Self-realization , a psychological or spiritual change in one's sense of self All pages with titles containing Realization Topics referred to by
110-549: A very difficult 7C (V9) boulder problem that he could not overcome. American climber Chris Sharma made over 30 attempts from 1996 to 2000 but could also not overcome the boulder move. In 2001, Sharma skipped the Bouldering World Cup in Gap , and after three days working on the route, on 18 July 2001, successfully free climbed the route, linking up Petit's first section to Lafaille's final bolt. Sharma's first ascent
132-456: Is almost halfway. To the anchor, the route is considered 5.14c (8c+), although some have suggested an upgrade to 5.15a (9a+) due to the initial bottom boulder breaking. There is a small rest at the old anchor, then sustained resistance climbing leads to a slightly better rest just below the finishing crux . This final crux is 12 moves, described as "a bunch of foot movement, and some very fickle pockets and crimps ". Its difficulty
154-411: Is amplified by the amount of hard climbing undertaken to reach it. Above this crux is a small rest, and 5.11 climbing for 50 feet leads to the final anchor at around the circa 35-meter mark". Realization was the first route to carry a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) grade, and Climbing called it a "technical revolution" in rock climbing. The quality and sustained difficulty of Realization means it
176-408: Is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages realization [REDACTED] Look up realization in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Realization or realisation may refer to: Realization (Eddie Henderson album) , a 1973 album by Eddie Henderson Realization (Johnny Rivers album) ,
198-427: Is still considered an important rite-of-passage for the world's best rock climbers, whose repeat ascents of the "legendary" route, are covered by the climbing media. Outside magazine called it "the benchmark for the grade", and it has become one of the most attempted and repeated routes at the grade at 9a+ (5.15a). In 2014, National Geographic called it, "one of the most famous sport-climbing routes in
220-450: The Empire ) , an episode of Tales of the Empire See also [ edit ] Realize (disambiguation) Self-realization , a psychological or spiritual change in one's sense of self All pages with titles containing Realization Topics referred to by the same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with the title Realization . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change
242-454: The U.S. (and the U.K.), they are named by the first person to successfully free climb the route. Sharma would later clarify: I named the route Realization because the first part "Biographie" ended in the middle and I wanted to differentiate the two. Then there was some frustration from the French that I changed the name etc. So upon speaking with some French friends, I understood the history of
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#1732876665717264-422: The creating of a musical accompaniment from a figured bass Realization (finance) , the pricing of security at market value Realization (linguistics) , the production of an actual form in a human language from an abstract representation Realization (metrology) , a physical form of a measurement standard Realization (probability) , an actually observed value of random variable Realization (systems) ,
286-410: The entire circa 35 metre pitch , and named it Biographie (he was not able to climb it). Biographie remained a long-standing open project , and in 1996, French climber Arnaud Petit [ fr ] freed the lower half of the route, added an anchor at his high-point and graded it at 8c+ (5.14c). Petit estimated that the remaining unclimbed section was about 8b+ (5.14a) but had
308-539: The failure of other strong climbers to repeat the route (e.g. Patxi Usobiaga , and Dave Graham ), implied that 9a+ was the likely grade. On 24 September 2017, American climber Margo Hayes became the first female climber to climb the route. On 5 August 2020, German climber Alexander Megos created Bibliographie , a 9b+ (5.15c) route, a few metres to the right of Realization/Biographie . The route starts with an immediate hard "four-move boulder problem", which partially broke in 2010, potentially rendering
330-404: The first time that I saw the route — it is truly magnificent. I was shocked to see that such a bold and impressive, seemingly perfect line exists. Add to that, the historic significance of this climb, not to mention its unique and brilliant holds and movement — it really is a proud route". On repeating the route in 2014, German climber Alexander Megos said: "I wanted to climb this route because it
352-459: The line and the tradition in France that the bolter names it, and I told them "that's fine with me to call it Biographie". ... I guess the whole thing was a bit confusing due to the middle anchor and not wanting to discredit the first pitch or have the name be exactly the same as the first part. For me personally, people can call it whatever they want. Naming things is just for fun. ... That piece of rock
374-428: The link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Realization&oldid=1250905209 " Category : Disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Realization (climb) In 1989, French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted
396-424: The lower section even more difficult (it has been compared to the notable bouldering problem, Necessarily Evil ). Sustained 5.13 climbing after the initial bouldering problem leads to the main rest, a large right-facing flake. After this pause, a series of "super-resistant two and three-finger pocket moves", with cross-throughs, underclings , and high-steps lead to Arnaud Petit's old anchor (now since removed), which
418-419: The same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with the title Realization . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change the link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Realization&oldid=1250905209 " Category : Disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description
440-439: The world". PlanetMountain included Realization on its list of important climbs in the evolution of free climbing (1918–2013). In 2012, when Adam Ondra attempted to flash the route (i.e. complete on the first attempt) he said: "It had always been my long-term crazy dream to flash this route". In 2014, when American climber Jonathan Siegrist made the eighth ascent of the route and told Outside magazine: "I can remember
462-465: Was captured in Josh Lowell 's 2002 climbing film, Dosage Volume 1 . Witnessing his ascent was a 10-year old Charlotte Durif [ fr ] , who was out hiking with her father. Sharma did not assign a grade to the climb. however he did name it Realization . The naming was a source of controversy as in France climbing routes are named by the person who first bolted the route , while in
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#1732876665717484-562: Was there long, long, before us, so to get worked up about naming it is kinda ridiculous. Though only aged 20, Sharma considered retiring after completing the ascent, but found new inspiration in extreme deep-water soloing routes in Mallorca . It took almost three years until the second ascent was made by French climber, Sylvain Millet, who also refused to grade it given his lack of experience of other equivalent reference climbs, however, he noted that
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