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68-545: Acts of prohibition have included prohibitions on types of clothing (and prohibitions on lack of clothing ), prohibitions on gambling and exotic dancing , the prohibition of drugs (for example, alcohol prohibition and cannabis prohibition ), prohibitions on tobacco smoking , and gun prohibition . Indeed, the period of Prohibition in the United States between 1920 and 1933 due to the Eighteenth Amendment and

136-424: A seigneur or "lord", 12th century), which gives rise to the expression "seigneurial system" to describe feudalism. Originally, vassalage did not imply the giving or receiving of landholdings (which were granted only as a reward for loyalty), but by the 8th century the giving of a landholding was becoming standard. The granting of a landholding to a vassal did not relinquish the lord's property rights, but only

204-610: A Seigneur or Dame that owns the fief. The Guernsey fiefs and seigneurs existed long before baronies, and are historically part of Normandy . While nobility has been outlawed in France and Germany, noble fiefs still exist by law in Guernsey. The owners of the fiefs actually convene each year at the Court of Chief Pleas under the supervision of His Majesty's Government. There are approximately 24 private fiefs in Guernsey that are registered directly with

272-571: A matched pair when on official duty. Islamic sumptuary laws are based upon teachings found in the Quran and Hadith . Males are exhorted not to wear silk clothes, nor have jewelry made of gold. Likewise, wearing clothes or robes that drag on the ground, seen as a sign of vanity and excessive pride, is also forbidden. These rules do not apply to women, who are allowed all this, but also need to cover their bodies and hair. Prohibition of depictions of human and animal figures in general are similar to those of

340-418: A financial or personal motivation to do so. The difficulty of enforcing prohibitionist laws also criticized as resulting in selective enforcement, wherein the enforcers select the people they wish to prosecute based on other criteria, resulting in discrimination based on races, culture, nationality, or financial status. For example, American philosopher Noam Chomsky has criticized drug prohibition as being

408-485: A land grant in exchange for service continued to be called a beneficium (Latin). Later, the term feudum , or feodum , began to replace beneficium in the documents. The first attested instance of this is from 984, although more primitive forms were seen up to one hundred years earlier. The origin of the feudum and why it replaced beneficium has not been well established, but there are multiple theories, described below. The most widely held theory

476-470: A lax manner. A series of popular engravings by Abraham Bosse depicts the supposed effects of this law. In the Massachusetts Bay Colony , a 1634 prohibition deemed that only people with a personal fortune of at least two hundred pounds could wear lace , silver or gold thread or buttons , cutwork , embroidery , hatbands, belts, ruffles, capes, and other articles. After a few decades, the law

544-580: A simple gravestone. The location of graves and the number of attendant statues depended on rank. After c.  1550 , sumptuary law in China was reformed. It had long been ineffective. The consumption of luxuries had risen over the previous several centuries, and at the time of the Industrial Revolution in Europe, Chinese consumption of luxuries such as tea, sugar, fine silk, tobacco, and eating utensils

612-540: A standard feudal system, nor did there exist only one type of fief. Over the ages, depending on the region, there was a broad variety of customs using the same basic legal principles in many variations. In ancient Rome, a " benefice " (from the Latin noun beneficium , meaning "benefit") was a gift of land ( precaria ) for life as a reward for services rendered, originally, to the state. In medieval Latin European documents,

680-585: A technique of social control of the "so-called dangerous classes". Prohibitionism based laws have the added problem of calling attention to the behavior that they are attempting to prohibit. This can make the behavior interesting and exciting, and cause its popularity to increase. This is essentially in relation with the Streisand effect . Sumptuary law Sumptuary laws (from Latin sūmptuāriae lēgēs ) are laws that try to regulate consumption. Black's Law Dictionary defines them as "Laws made for

748-449: A way for the nobility to limit the conspicuous consumption of the prosperous bourgeoisie . Bourgeois subjects appearing to be as wealthy as or wealthier than the ruling nobility could undermine the nobility's presentation of themselves as powerful, legitimate rulers. This could call into question their ability to control and defend their fief , thus inspiring traitors and rebels. Such laws continued to be used for these purposes well into

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816-627: A year. The laws were often quite specific. Low necklines were prohibited in Genoa , Milan , and Rome in the early 16th century, and laws restricting zibellini (sable furs carried as fashion accessories) with heads and feet of precious metals and jewels were issued in Bologna in 1545 and Milan in 1565. Montaigne 's brief essay "On sumptuary laws" criticized 16th-century French laws, beginning: The way by which our laws attempt to regulate idle and vain expenses in meat and clothes, seems to be quite contrary to

884-618: Is and must be yearly conveyed out of the same to answer the said excess) but also particularly the wasting and undoing of a great number of young gentlemen, otherwise serviceable, and others seeking by show of apparel to be esteemed as gentlemen, who, allured by the vain show of those things, do not only consume themselves, their goods, and lands which their parents left unto them, but also run into such debts and shifts as they cannot live out of danger of laws without attempting unlawful acts, whereby they are not any ways serviceable to their country as otherwise they might be The first major sumptuary act

952-433: Is bent upon prostitution or adultery. It also banned the drinking of undiluted wine except for medical purposes. The Sumptuariae Leges of ancient Rome were various laws passed to prevent inordinate expense (Latin sūmptus ) in banquets and dress, such as the use of expensive Tyrian purple dye. Roman senators and senior magistrates were entitled to wear a Tyrian purple stripe on their toga and tunic . In

1020-437: Is first attested around 1250–1300 (Middle English); the word "fief" from around 1605–1615. In French, the term fief is found from the middle of the 13th century (Old French), derived from the 11th-century terms feu , fie . The odd appearance of the second f in the form fief may be due to influence from the verb fiever 'to grant in fee'. In French, one also finds seigneurie (land and rights possessed by

1088-497: Is often prohibited on liquor sales, as well. Criminal penalties may be imposed for driving under the influence of alcohol, as well as for drunken behavior." When the U.S. state of Washington considered cannabis decriminalization in two initiatives, 229 and 248, the initiatives' language stated, "Cannabis prohibition is a sumptuary law of a nature repugnant to our Constitution's framers." Fief List of forms of government A fief ( / f iː f / ; Latin : feudum )

1156-549: Is put forth by Marc Bloch that it is related to the Frankish term *fehu-ôd , in which *fehu means "cattle" and -ôd means "goods", implying "a moveable object of value". When land replaced currency as the primary store of value , the Germanic word *fehu-ôd replaced the Latin word beneficium . This Germanic origin theory was also shared by William Stubbs in the 19th century. A theory put forward by Archibald R. Lewis

1224-541: Is restricted to specific occupations, specifically the uniforms of organisations like the police and military. In some jurisdictions, clothing or other visible signs of religious or political opinion (e.g. Nazi imagery in Germany) are forbidden in certain public places. Many American states in the 20th century prohibited the wearing of Ku Klux Klan hoods, masks, masquerade, or drag ; gay men in New York City seized on

1292-508: Is that the origin of 'fief' is not feudum (or feodum ), but rather foderum , the earliest attested use being in Astronomus 's Vita Hludovici (840). In that text is a passage about Louis the Pious which says "annona militaris quas vulgo foderum vocant" , which can be translated as "(Louis forbade that) military provender which they popularly call 'fodder' (be furnished)." In

1360-744: Is the first known English legislation restricting the use of "royal purple" – a term which, during the Middle Ages, referred not only to the Tyrian purple of Antiquity, but also to crimson, dark reds and royal blue. The language of the act uses technical terminology to restrict certain features of garments that are decorative in function, intended to enhance the silhouette. A second "Act of Apparel" followed in January 1483 restricting cloth-of-gold , sable , ermine , velvet on velvet and satin brocade to knights and lords. Damask and satin were allowed for yeoman of

1428-435: The chōnin merchant class had grown far wealthier than the aristocratic samurai , and these laws sought to maintain the superiority of the samurai class despite the merchants being able to afford far more luxurious clothing and other items. The shogunate eventually gave in and allowed certain concessions, including allowing merchants of a certain prestige to wear a single sword at their belt; samurai were required to wear

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1496-541: The nota censoria , which listed the names of everyone found guilty of a luxurious mode of living; a great many instances of this kind are recorded. Towards the end of the Roman Republic , laws were passed against political corruption of Roman magistrates, forbidding their attendance at banquets given by candidates or their agents. During the period of transition from Republic to Empire, such antisumptuary laws, which may have still existed were virtually ignored by most. In

1564-461: The Volstead Act often is referred to simply as " Prohibition ", as is the " War on Drugs " that succeeded it. The success of a measure of prohibitionism has been criticized as often depending too much upon effective enforcement of the relevant legislation. Some people have argued this is because the majority of the targets of prohibitionism are in the category of victimless crime , where they claim

1632-405: The 10th and 11th centuries the Latin terms for 'fee' could be used either to describe dependent tenure held by a man from his lord, as the term is used now by historians, or it could mean simply "property" (the manor was, in effect, a small fief). It lacked a precise meaning until the middle of the 12th century, when it received formal definition from land lawyers. In English usage, the word "fee"

1700-558: The 12th century, certain articles of clothing were prohibited to crusaders and pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land under the Saladin Tithe of 1188, but scant evidence exists in the historical record of legal regulations on dress in Britain until the reign of Edward III , during which prohibitions were enacted on the import of textiles from lands outside Ireland, England, Scotland, and Wales and

1768-463: The 17th century. According to historian Lorraine Daston , sumptuary laws "furnish the historian of rules with an extreme case of rule failure," as such laws frequently failed to reduce excess and may even have exacerbated excess. Sumptuary laws were often revisable regulations rather than stable laws, as governing authorities sought to prohibit the latest rebellious or extravagant fashions. The seventh-century BC law-text of Locrians by Zaleucus ,

1836-520: The Crown and esquires and other members of the gentry, only if they had a yearly income of £40. Bustian , fustian , scarlet-dyed cloths and any leathers or animal hides other than lambskins were also restricted. An act of Parliament, the Caps Act 1571 ( 13 Eliz. 1 . c. 19) to stimulate domestic wool consumption and general trade decreed that on Sundays and holidays, all males over six years of age, except for

1904-476: The Quranic prohibition on graven images . Hadiths do allow the depiction of animals on clothing items. Sumptuary laws issued by secular authorities, aimed at keeping the main population dressed according to their "station", do not begin until the later 13th century. These laws were addressed to the entire social body, but the brunt of regulations was directed at women and the middle classes. Their curbing of display

1972-476: The United States as a bad sumptuary law, stating that one of his reasons for opposing prohibition was his belief that "sumptuary laws are matters for parochial adjustment." Taft later repeated this concern. The Indiana Supreme Court also discussed alcohol prohibition as a sumptuary law in its 1855 decision Herman v. State . During state conventions on the ratification of the Twenty-first Amendment to

2040-570: The United States Constitution in 1933, numerous delegates throughout the United States decried prohibition as having been an improper sumptuary law that never should have been included in the Constitution of the United States . In 1971, a United States federal study stated that federal laws on alcohol include "sumptuary laws which are directed at the purchaser", including, "Sales are not permitted to minors or intoxicated persons. Credit

2108-499: The arm or shoulder, or tassels on the arm. Later restrictions specified various forms of finery that were forbidden, although there was also sometimes a recognition that finery represented working equipment (and capital) for a prostitute, and they could be exempted from laws applying to other non-noble women. By the 15th century, no compulsory clothing seems to have been imposed on prostitutes in Florence , Venice , or Paris . As early as

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2176-540: The balance of trade by limiting the market for expensive imported goods. They made it easy to identify social rank and privilege , and as such could be used for social discrimination and to stabilize social hierarchies. They could also be used to prevent, or at least reduce opportunities for political bribery and corruption . The laws often prevented commoners from imitating the appearance of aristocrats , and could be used to stigmatize disfavoured groups. In Late Medieval cities, sumptuary laws were instituted as

2244-417: The documents) for the life of the vassal, or, sometimes extending to the second or third generation. By the middle of the 10th century, fee had largely become hereditary. The eldest son of a deceased vassal would inherit, but first he had to do homage and fealty to the lord and pay a " relief " for the land (a monetary recognition of the lord's continuing proprietary rights over the property). Historically,

2312-467: The early 17th century, but new protectionist laws were passed prohibiting the purchase of foreign silks and laces. Prohibitions were tied to rank and income and continued to be widely ignored. During the late 16th century, John Perrot , the Lord Deputy of Ireland under Elizabeth I , banned the wearing of traditional woollen mantles, "open smocks" with "great sleeves", and native headdresses, requiring

2380-564: The early years of the Roman Empire , men were forbidden to wear silk , which was deemed an effeminate and morally suspect material. During the height of the Empire, expenditure on silk imported from China was so high, Imperial advisers warned that Roman silver reserves were becoming exhausted. The Roman censors had a duty to put a check upon morals and extravagance in personal and political expenditure. The censors published details of offences in

2448-748: The economy of private people, and to restrain their expense... They are themselves always, and without any exception, the greatest spendthrifts in the society. Let them look well after their own expense, and they may safely trust private people with theirs. If their own extravagance does not ruin the state, that of their subjects never will." During the Medieval and Renaissance eras in Italy, various towns passed sumptuary laws ( leggi suntuarie ) often in response to particular events or movements. For example, Bernardino of Siena , in his public sermons in Siena, thundered against

2516-732: The end designed… For to enact that none but princes shall eat turbot , shall wear velvet or gold lace , and interdict these things to the people, what is it but to bring them into a greater esteem, and to set every one more agog to eat and wear them? He also cites Plato and Zaleucus . One of the earliest known Scottish sumptuary regulations was passed in 1429 during the reign of James I of Scotland . The text, written in Old Scots , preserves some medieval legal terminology related to textiles, limiting silk, some types of furs ( pine martens , beech martens ) and other items to men of certain social ranks like knight, lord, burgess, and their families. As with

2584-480: The exemption for masquerade balls in the 1920s to 1930s to go in drag. In Bhutan , the wearing of traditional dress (which also has an ethnic connotation) in certain places, such as when visiting government offices, was made compulsory in 1989 under the driglam namzha laws. Part of the traditional dress includes the kabney , a long scarf whose coloring is regulated. Only the King of Bhutan and Chief Abbot may don

2652-519: The exportation of domestically produced wool was likewise banned. The statute contained further restrictions on clothing based on social class; the earliest example of class-based restriction was that of fur, prohibited for anyone below the rank of lady or knight. The restriction on fur was expanded in subsequent decades in London to restrict prostitutes from wearing any furs, including budge (low-quality wool) or lambswool. In England, which in this respect

2720-591: The fees of the 11th and the 12th century derived from two separate sources. The first was land carved out of the estates of the upper nobility. The second source was allodial land transformed into dependent tenures. During the 10th century in northern France and the 11th century in France south of the Loire , local magnates either recruited or forced the owners of allodial holdings into dependent relationships and they were turned into fiefs. The process occurred later in Germany, and

2788-479: The first written 'law code' in Ancient Greece, stipulated: A free-born woman may not be accompanied by more than one female slave, unless she is drunk; she may not leave the city during the night, unless she is planning to commit adultery; she may not wear gold jewelry or a garment with a purple border, unless she is a courtesan; and a husband may not wear a gold-studded ring or a cloak of Milesian fashion unless he

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2856-482: The harm that comes from the crime is non-existent, questionable, or only to the person who performs the act and even then the magnitude of the harm being relatively small. Under this interpretation enforcement becomes a conflict between violation of statue and violation of free will. Since the acts prohibited often are enjoyable, enforcement is often the most harmful choice to the individual. This sometimes results in laws which rarely are enforced by anybody who does not have

2924-410: The laws of Henry V of England in 1420, silver plating was reserved for the spurs of knights and the apparel of barons or higher ranking persons. Metalsmiths caught violating these laws would be punished by death and all their lands and goods forfeit. Embroidery and pearls were also restricted. Yeomen and commoners could not wear colored clothes longer than the knee. The poke sleeve that narrowed at

2992-579: The legislative judgment for that of the proprietor, regarding the manner in which he should use and employ his property." Policies to which the term has been critically applied include alcohol prohibition , drug prohibition , smoking bans , and restrictions on dog fighting . As early as 1860, Anthony Trollope , writing about his experiences in Maine under the state's prohibition law , stated, "This law (prohibition), like all sumptuary laws, must fail." In 1918, William Howard Taft decried prohibition in

3060-515: The most part, these laws seem to have had little effect, though the Parliament of England made repeated amendments to the laws, and several monarchs, most notably the Tudors , continually called for stricter enforcement, especially at Court "to the intent there may be a difference of estates known by their apparel after the commendable custom in times past." The laws were justified by the reasoning that

3128-598: The nobility and persons of degree, were to wear woolen caps on pain of a fine of three farthings ( 3 ⁄ 4 penny) per day. This law instituted the flat cap as part of English wear. The 1571 act was repealed in 1597 by the Continuance, etc. of Laws Act 1597 ( 39 Eliz. 1 . c. 18). An extremely long list of items, specifying colour, materials, and sometimes place of manufacture (imported goods being much more tightly restricted) followed for each sex, with equally specific exceptions by rank of nobility or position held. For

3196-505: The people to dress in "civil garments" in the English style. In 1629 and 1633, Louis XIII of France issued edicts regulating "Superfluity of Dress" that prohibited anyone but princes and the nobility from wearing gold embroidery or caps, shirts, collars, and cuffs embroidered with metallic threads or lace, and puffs, slashes, and bunches of ribbon were severely restricted. As with other such laws, these were widely disregarded and enforced in

3264-527: The period of profligate luxury goods that characterized the height of the Roman Empire, the laws regarding the wearing of Tyrian purple were rigorously enforced. Infringement of this prohibition was treasonous, so punishable by death. Roman sumptuary laws applied to both the living and the dead. Rome's most ancient laws, the laws of the Twelve Tables , forbade extravagant expenses at funerals. This included

3332-491: The pouring of wine over the ashes at cremations (which seems nevertheless to have been an invariable practise), the use of smoothed timbers in funeral pyres, and "excessive" mourning. Sumptuary laws existed in China in one form or another from the Qin dynasty onward (221 BC). The Confucian virtue of restraint was embodied in the scholarly system central to China's bureaucracy and became encoded in its laws. Some laws concerned

3400-433: The price of certain goods increased to levels where "the treasure of the land is destroyed, to the great damage of the lords and the commonality" when "various people or various conditions wear various apparel not appropriate to their estate". Adam Smith was against the necessity or convenience of sumptuary laws, he wrote: "of It is the highest impertinence and presumption... in kings and ministers, to pretend to watch over

3468-439: The purpose of restraining luxury or extravagance, particularly against inordinate expenditures for apparel, food, furniture, or shoes, etc." Historically, they were intended to regulate and reinforce social hierarchies and morals through restrictions on clothing, food, and luxury expenditures, often depending on a person's social rank. Societies have used sumptuary laws for a variety of purposes. They were used to try to regulate

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3536-478: The right of high justice, etc.) in their lands, and some passed these rights to their own vassals. The privilege of minting official coins developed into the concept of seigniorage . In 13th-century Germany, Italy, England, France, and Spain the term "feodum" was used to describe a dependent tenure held from a lord by a vassal in return for a specified amount of knight service and occasional financial payments ( feudal incidents ). However, knight service in war

3604-416: The saffron scarf, with various other colors reserved for government and religious officers, and white available for common people. The term sumptuary law has been used as a pejorative term to describe any governmental control of consumption based on moral, religious, health, or public safety, or other concerns. American Judge Thomas M. Cooley generally described their modern form as laws that "substitute

3672-547: The service of mercenaries . A list of several hundred such fees held in chief between 1198 and 1292, along with their holders' names and form of tenure, was published in three volumes between 1920 and 1931 and is known as The Book of Fees ; it was developed from the 1302 Testa de Nevill . The Bailiwick of Guernsey is a group of several of the Channel Islands that is a Crown Dependency . Guernsey still has feudal law and legal fiefs in existence today. Each fief has

3740-486: The size and decoration of graves and mausoleums. The Hongwu Emperor , founder of the Ming dynasty , issued such regulations in the first year of his rule (1368) and tightened them in 1396, allowing only the highest nobility and officials of the top three ranks a memorial stele installed on top of a stone tortoise ; the steles of lower-level mandarins were perched on rectangular pedestals, while commoners had to be satisfied with

3808-401: The superfluity of unnecessary foreign wares thereto belonging now of late years is grown by sufferance to such an extremity that the manifest decay of the whole realm generally is like to follow (by bringing into the realm such superfluities of silks, cloths of gold , silver, and other most vain devices of so great cost for the quantity thereof as of necessity the moneys and treasure of the realm

3876-413: The use of the lands and their income; the granting lord retained ultimate ownership of the fee and could, technically, recover the lands in case of disloyalty or death. In Francia , Charles Martel was the first to make large-scale and systematic use (the practice had remained sporadic until then) of the remuneration of vassals by the concession of the usufruct of lands (a beneficatium or " benefice " in

3944-524: The vanity of luxurious dress; this, however, was counterbalanced by the economic benefit Siena derived as a manufacturer of items, including clothes, of luxury. One source describes these types of laws as constantly published, and generally ignored. These laws, mostly aimed at female apparel, sometimes became a source of revenue for the state: the Florentine laws of 1415 restricted the luxury that could be worn by women, but exempted those willing to pay 50 florins

4012-548: The wearing of Highland dress , including tartan and kilts , illegal in Scotland (an exemption was made for soldiers and veterans). The act, which was poorly enforced, was eventually repealed in 1782, and during the Regency and Victorian eras Highland dress gained widespread popularity in part thanks to the visit of George IV to Scotland in 1822, which was organised by Scottish writer Walter Scott . Sumptuary laws were repealed in

4080-506: The wrist were allowed for sentinel yeomen who lived in their lord's house and rode with the gentlemen. Commoners' wives could not wear long-tail hoods or side-necked hoods , poked sleeves, or caps made from rich textiles like Lawn cloth or Rheims (fine linen ). The Dress Act 1746 , which formed part of the Act of Proscription issued under George II following the Jacobite rising of 1745 , made

4148-681: Was a central element in medieval contracts based on feudal law. It consisted of a form of property holding or other rights granted by an overlord to a vassal , who held it in fealty or "in fee" in return for a form of feudal allegiance, services or payments. The fees were often lands, land revenue or revenue-producing real property like a watermill , held in feudal land tenure : these are typically known as fiefs or fiefdoms . However, not only land but anything of value could be held in fee, including governmental office, rights of exploitation such as hunting, fishing or felling trees, monopolies in trade, money rents and tax farms . There never existed

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4216-470: Was being widely defied. By 1651, flouting of the rules caused leadership to issue a new strongly worded regulation to the populace again. In the Province of South Carolina , the 1712 slave code forbade slaves in the colony to wear clothes finer than "Negro cloth". While rarely do restrictions exist on the type or quality of clothing, beyond maintenance of public decency, wearing certain types of clothing

4284-400: Was far less common than: A lord in late 12th-century England and France could also claim the right of: In northern France in the 12th and 13th centuries, military service for fiefs was limited for offensive campaigns to 40 days for a knight. By the 12th century, English and French kings and barons began to commute military service for cash payments ( scutages ), with which they could purchase

4352-552: Was on a par with the core regions of Europe. According to Britannica Online , "In feudal Japan, sumptuary laws were passed with a frequency and minuteness of scope that had no parallel in the history of the Western world." During the Edo period (1603–1868), people of every class were subject to strict sumptuary laws, including regulation of the types of clothing that could be worn. In the second half of that period (the 18th and 19th centuries),

4420-591: Was ordinarily couched in religious and moralizing vocabulary, yet was affected by social and economic considerations aimed at preventing ruinous expense among the wealthy classes and the drain of capital reserves to foreign suppliers. Special forms of dress for prostitutes and courtesans were introduced during the 13th century – in Marseille , a striped cloak, in England a striped hood, and so on. Over time, these tended to be reduced to distinctive bands of fabric attached to

4488-450: Was passed in April 1463 during the reign of Edward IV . Earlier statutes had sought to control the expense of household liveries , but the April 1463 statute marked the first attempt at a comprehensive sumptuary legislation. Scholars have interpreted the act as part of a set of protectionist economic measures that included regulations of the textile industry and trade in cloths. This statute

4556-473: Was still going on in the 13th century. In England, Henry II transformed them into important sources of royal income and patronage. The discontent of barons with royal claims to arbitrarily assessed "reliefs" and other feudal payments under Henry's son King John resulted in Magna Carta of 1215. Eventually, great feudal lords sought also to seize governmental and legal authority (the collection of taxes,

4624-438: Was typical of Europe, from the reign of Edward III in the Middle Ages until well into the 17th century, sumptuary laws dictated what colour and type of clothing, furs, fabrics, and trims were allowed to persons of various ranks or incomes. In the case of clothing, this was intended, amongst other reasons, to reduce spending on foreign textiles and to ensure that people did not dress "above their station": The excess of apparel and

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