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47-449: The earliest known inhabitants of the fjords and channels were, from north to south, the Chono , Alacalufe and Yaghan , all of whom shared a life style as canoe-faring hunter-gatherers. They also shared physical traits such as being of low stature, long-headed ( Dolichocephalic ), and having a "low face". Despite similarities their languages were completely different. The Chono moved around in

94-675: A "low face". In the opinion of Robert FitzRoy who saw the Chono people in the 1830s, they were more muscular and with a more beautiful appearance when compared to canoe-farers further south. Alberto Achacaz Walakial , himself a Kawésqar born around 1929, said that the Chono people were taller and of darker skin than his people. He also added that their noses and faces were longer. Study of Chono bones reveal they were prone to suffer joint problems, infectious diseases and in some cases traumatic injuries . These diseases were associated with their lifestyle. Scholar Alberto Trivera considers that there

141-679: A 5-hour crossing from Hornopirén (110 kilometers (68 mi) south of Puerto Montt) to Caleta Gonzalo and a 50-minute crossing from Puerto Yungay to Rio Bravo, connecting to the final 100 kilometers (62 mi) of the highway. With the exception of Chiloé Island , the region is sparsely inhabited. The main ports are: Puerto Montt, Quellón , Chaitén , Melinka , Puerto Chacabuco , Puyuguapi, Puerto Natales , Punta Arenas , Porvenir and Puerto Williams . South of Chiloé, there are also small ports like Villa Puerto Edén , Bahía Corbeta Papudo on Guarello Island , Puerto Bories , Puerto Navarino , Puerto Toro , and Caleta Eugenia. In order to open

188-753: A direct passage from the Moraleda Channel to the Messier Channel without to go out into the open Pacific Ocean to round the Taitao Peninsula , the Chilean Government ordered in 1937 the construction of a canal from the San Rafael Lagoon through the isthmus (2,200 m long, 17 m wide, 5 m depth) to the Negro River , that later should be dredged 25 kilometres (16 mi). 1937 began the work on

235-580: Is a planned bridge that is to link the island of Chiloé with mainland Chile crossing the Chacao Channel . It was one of the several projects that were planned to commemorate the Chile's bicentennial in 2010. If completed as a suspension bridge , it would be the largest such bridge in South America . Chono people The Chono , or Guaiteco were a nomadic indigenous people or group of peoples of

282-596: Is mostly done by vessels desiring to avoid the heavy seas and bad weather so often experienced on passing into the Pacific Ocean from the western end of the Strait of Magellan . The large full-powered mail steamers generally at once gain the open sea at Cape Pillar (at the west entrance of the Strait of Magellan), as experience has shown that time is thus saved to them; but vessels of less engine power, to which punctuality and dispatch

329-466: Is no continuity between the human culture seen in the archaeological site of Monte Verde and any historical group. According to archaeologist Ricardo E. Latcham the Chono people along other sea-faring nomads may be remnants from more widespread indigenous groups that were pushed south by "successive invasions" from more northern tribes. The Chono people are believed to be Chiloé Archipelago 's first ethnically identifiable inhabitants. This has led to

376-479: Is not so much an object as avoiding possible danger, will find the Patagonian Channels the best route. The general features of these channels are high, abrupt shores, with innumerable peaks and headlands remarkably alike in character, their bold, rugged heads giving an appearance of gloomy grandeur rarely seen elsewhere. The shores are generally steep-to and the channels, for the most part, open and free, while

423-571: Is unverified. Guaitecas Archipelago made up the southern limit of Pre-Hispanic agriculture as noted by the mention of the cultivation of potatoes by a Spanish expedition in 1557. Both Chonos and Alacalufes used Pilgerodendron uviferum as firewood as well as wood for rows, boats and houses. Pedro de Valdivia sought originally to conquer all of southern South America to the Straits of Magellan (53° S). He did however only reach Reloncaví Sound (41°45' S). Later in 1567 Chiloé Archipelago (42°30' S)

470-568: The Cuncos settled in Chiloé Island in pre-Hispanic times as a consequence of a push from more northern Huilliches who in turn were being displaced by the Mapuche . As such, some historians consider that places as far north as the coast of Osorno and Llanquihue Lake were once within the range of Chono nomadism. Archaeologist and ethnographer Ricardo E. Latcham built upon these notions and held

517-470: The cabildo of Castro explained the decline of the Chono that had settled in Jesuit missions as caused by a shortage of women. Historian Rodolfo Urbina Burgos follows up on this thought and argues the Chono as a whole went extinct as a distinctive group because of a chronic shortage of women. Urbina Burgos argues this meant Chono were being married to indigenous women of Veliche, Caucahué , or Payo stock. Thus

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564-515: The encomienda system of servitude. Spanish interest in the lands of the Chono appear to have declined after the 1675 Antonio de Vea expedition . Nevertheless, in 1710 a large group of Chono arrived voluntarily at the Spanish settlement of Calbuco escaping from internal conflicts. The Spaniards decided to settle this group in Guar Island . Interest in the Chono lands arose again in the 1740s when

611-685: The Chilean baselines and the continental shoreline are internal waters , according to the Chilean decree 416 of 14 June 1977 based in the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea , that is, the coastal nation is free to set laws, regulate any use, and use any resource. Foreign vessels have no right of passage within internal waters, and this lack of right to innocent passage is the key difference between internal waters and territorial waters . Chile allows

658-494: The Chono miscegenated and assimilated into the indigenous cultures of Chiloé by replacement of women. Chono women were responsible for diving in cold waters for shellfish , and this may have been the cause of a short life expectancy among them. Chonos who fled south of Taitao Peninsula in the 18th century may have ended up being absorbed into the Kawésqar . Inhabitants in the island of Laitec, which has strong historical links to

705-433: The Chono arrived to Guaitecas Archipelago from Chiloé Archipelago after these were invaded by groups of Mapuche culture (Huilliche, Cuncos, etc.) from the mainland in the 13th century. The Chono people met Europeans for the first time when the naval expedition of Francisco de Ulloa arrived at their lands in 1553. In the late 16th-century and early 17th-century there were various Spanish incursions aimed to bring Chono to

752-449: The Chono did not always tell the truth and sometimes misled the navigators. Indeed, the Chono managed to keep Spanish explorers away from Presidente Ríos Lake so effectively that it became officially known to Chileans only in 1945. As a consequence of their proximity to the Spanish settlements in Chiloé, the Chono were the canoe-faring peoples of Patagonia with the most intense contact with

799-429: The Chono, have an indigenous genetic admixture averaging 80%. It is not known to which extent miscegenated descendants of Chono on this island retain aspects of Chono culture. The custom of the inhabitants of Melinka to bring dogs on board in their travels may be rooted in Chono traditions. Culturally, the Chono had much in common with southern sea-farers such as the Kawésqar , yet the Chono also had influences from

846-540: The Chonos maintained a chiefly marine-based diet over centuries or millennia until after the time of Spanish contact (c. 1550), when land-based food became more important in the Chono diet. Iron objects were highly valued by the Chono and were usually obtained from the Spanish settlements in Chiloé, either by trade or theft. In some cases, iron was scavenged from European shipwrecks. Enrique Simpson Enrique Simpson Baeza (Valparaíso, 1835–Valparaíso, May 17, 1901)

893-657: The Mapuche world. Authors such as Harb D. et al. (1998) list the Chono people as culturally " Fuegian " in contrast to more northern Mapuche groups. Urbina Burgos (2007) mentions the Chiloé Archipelago as the frontier between Mapuche culture and the culture of the "southern peoples". The putative Chono language is known only from local toponyms and from an untranslated catechism . Men hunted marine mammals, especially sea lions , while women gathered shellfish and seaweed . The Chono used nets and spears to gather food from

940-507: The Spaniards learned about the wreck of the British warship HMS  Wager on Wager Island in western Patagonia. As a result of a corsair and pirate menace the Spanish authorities were ordered to depopulate the archipelagos of Chono and Guaiteca to deprive their enemies of any eventual support from the native populations. This then led to the transfer of population to Chiloé Archipelago in

987-496: The Spaniards. Anecdotal evidence shows that the Chono became increasingly acculturated into Spanish culture over the 17th and 18th centuries. For example, Cristóbal Talcapillán , who was interviewed by the Spanish authorities in the 1670s, understood the difference between the Spaniards and the English. In the 1740s Martín Olleta was able to understand the importance of the wreckage of HMS Wager and profited from it by handing over

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1034-409: The Spanish dominions of Chiloé. These incursions turned into outright slave raids following the 1608 decree of King Philip III of Spain that legalized slavery of "indigenous rebels". This was an abuse of the law since the Chono, in contrast to the Mapuche who had destroyed seven Spanish cities in their 1598–1604 uprising, had never rebelled. The Chono people were not the only ones to suffer from

1081-538: The Spanish encounter difficulties to adapt as their attempts to base the economy on gold extraction and a "hispanic-mediterranean" agricultural model failed. During colonial times, the fjords and channels of Patagonia were first explored by the Spaniards . There were a number of motivations for their explorations, including a desire to Christianize indigenous peoples, to prevent intrusions of foreign powers into territory claimed by Spain, to increase geographic knowledge of

1128-480: The archipelagos of Chiloé , Guaitecas and Chonos . The Chono people lived as hunter-gatherers traveling by canoe. Much of what is known from Spanish sources on Chonos is filtered by a Huilliche worldview, as Huilliches and Huilliche language was used to communicate with Chonos. Together with other canoe-faring peoples of western Patagonia, the Chono people shared the physical features of being of low stature, being long-headed (dolichocephalic) and having

1175-521: The area from Chiloé Archipelago to 50° S and the Alacalufe from 46° S to the Strait of Magellan . Thus both groups overlapped in Gulf of Penas , Guayaneco Archipelago and other islands. Yaghans inhabited a reduced area south of Tierra del Fuego . It is often assumed that Chonos were the people who left behind most of the abundant Pre-Historic shell middens (chonchales) of Chiloé Archipelago , yet this claim

1222-422: The assumption that the Chono were the people who left behind most of the abundant shell middens ( Spanish : conchales ) of Chiloé Archipelago, yet this claim is unverified. There are various place names in Chiloé Archipelago with Chono etymologies despite the main indigenous language of the archipelago at the arrival of the Spaniards being Veliche . A theory postulated by chronicler José Pérez García holds

1269-538: The channels. With Hudson's death in 1859 Francisco Vidal Gormaz continued the explorations, a duty that Enrique Simpson assumed in the 1870s. The channels south of the Isthmus of Ofqui were explored in detail by Chilean government agent Hans Steffen in the late 19th century. During his explorations and charting in the second half of the 19th century Vidal Gormaz became critical of the work of Robert FitzRoy and Charles Darwin whom according to him had failed acknowledge

1316-905: The east Beagle Channel : Ships coming from east can access through the eastern mouth, northeast of Isla Nueva or through the Pasos Richmond and Picton. g) to Seno Otway and Seno Skyring : from Isla Carlos III - Canal Jerónimo - Seno Otway - Canal Fitz-Roy - Seno Skyring to Bahía Mina Elena (and back). h) to Isla Guarello : from Isla Inocentes - Canal Concepción - Canal Oeste - Seno Contreras - Bahía Corbeta Papudo in Isla Guarello, (and back), or from Bahía Corbeta Papudo in Isla Guarello - Seno Contreras - Paso Metalero (and back). i) throughout Chonos Archipelago : j) to bahía Chacabuco : from Canal Moraleda - Paso del Medio or Canal Pilcomayo or Canal Ferronave - Seno Aysén to Bahía Chacabuco (and back). k) to Laguna San Rafael : l) through

1363-562: The few dangers that exist are usually marked by kelp. The tides are regular and not strong, except in the English Narrows . In the case of the two above mentioned and some other fjords, these waterways proved of value as transport lanes when western Patagonia was settled and incorporated into Chile. On the other hand, the fjords have served as a natural barrier preventing north-south land travel in Chilean Patagonia. All waters between

1410-608: The ground, under the management of the railways department of the Ministry of Public Works . Work continued until May 1943 when funds ran out. The map on the right shows the Laguna San Rafael and the Golfo Elefantes , they are the southernmost part of the Moraleda Channel . The Golfo San Esteban can be seen as the northernmost part of the Messier Channel . The Chacao Channel bridge , also known as Chiloé Bicentennial Bridge ,

1457-517: The importance of the Patagonian islands. Felipe Westhoff , a German-Lithuanian immigrant who operated a Pilgerodendron uviferum logging business from Ancud , founded Melinka in Guaitecas Archipelago in 1860. This was the first permanent settlement in the archipelago. Chilean authorities granted Westhoff exclusive rights on Pilgerodendron extraction in the archipelago and bestowed him

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1504-493: The inhabitants of southern Chiloé who visited these areas for wood, fish or hunting. Over-all the physical infrastructure of the Spanish in the fjords and channels during the colonial period was negligible and consisted of a few chapels built in the 1610s and 1620s and a wooden fortress built in 1750. All these buildings were abandoned after a few years. In the early to mid 19th century, explorations by hydrographers like Robert FitzRoy and Francisco Hudson increased knowledge on

1551-418: The inner channels of Chiloé : from Boca del Guafo or Golfo Corcovado to Puerto Montt or to Golfo de Coronados, (and back) throughout the inner Channels heading to ports and bays m) to Puerto Montt through Canal de Chacao : from golfo Coronados - Canal de Chacao - Golfo de Ancud - Canal Calbuco or Paso Queullín - Seno de Reloncaví - Paso Guar - Puerto Montt (and back). Since it is impossible to reach all

1598-537: The late 19th century. Alberto Achacaz Walakial , himself a Kawésqar born around 1929, claimed to have met Chonos when young. Writer Benjamín Subercaseaux visited Taitao Peninsula in 1946 reporting having seen footsteps and fresh human feces he thought indicated that nomadic Chono, as known from the historical record, still existed. Ricardo Vásquez led an expedition in 2006 to remote parts of Taitao Peninsula partly motivated by possible indications that Chono were still living in isolation there. In 1743, members of

1645-430: The nickname of "The King of Pilgerodendron" ( Spanish : El Rey del Ciprés ) and had great effects on the incipient economic development that came to link the archipelagoes of Chiloé , Guaitecas and Chonos . It is very rare for the fjords to freeze in winter but when it happens it is usually in the inner parts of fjords whose surface waters are mainly freshwater. Navigating through the fjords and channels of Chile

1692-406: The north while some Chono moved south of Taitao Peninsula , effectively depopulating the territory. The Chono in Chiloé ended up being absorbed by the mestizo and indigenous Huilliche population there. Chono served as maritime pilots in many of the expeditions undertaken by the Spaniards to the Patagonian archipelagoes. Yet it was noted by some Spaniards like José de Moraleda y Montero that

1739-555: The region by road through Chile, the transport of persons and cargo must be done by ship or airplanes according to the public infrastructure provision. In order to carry significant quantities of persons, vehicles, and cargo directly onto an unimproved shore to supply the islands and coastal region including settlements, the ferry is the best suited ship type and most of them are basically a cargo boat with no fancy, cruiser-type accommodation, even though they have managed to improve their customer service. There are 150 major ships sailing in

1786-554: The sea, but supplemented their catch with potatoes and other plants from small gardens. Their healing places consisted of caves or leather structures. The Chono had small dows they used to travel with in their dalcas. Some evidence suggest the dogs were used for fishing, and were not themselves a source of food in the Chono diet. Both the Chono people and Kawésqars used Pilgerodendron uviferum for firewood, as well as wood for oars, paddles, boats and houses. Isotope studies of human bones found in former Chono territory suggest

1833-638: The slave raids organized by the Spanish from Chiloé; so did also the Huilliche of Valdivia, Osorno, and indigenous groups from Nahuel Huapi Lake across the Andes. Some Chono slaves may have been exported north to the Spanish settlements of Central Chile which was becoming a melting pot for uprooted indigenous peoples. The Spanish not only obtained the Chono people as slaves during raids but also from other Chono people who sold their own people. While some Chono people were turned into outright slaves, others ended up in

1880-483: The southern regions of Chile. Cruise ships also operate between the main ports of the region and offer a journey that is considered an experience in itself, due to the slow way of entering this magnificent landscape of narrow channels and solitary islands. The Carretera Austral requires the use of three ferries: a 30-minute crossing about 45 kilometers (28 mi) south of the start of the highway in Puerto Montt ,

1927-474: The survivors to the Spanish authorities while keeping valuable metal objects obtained from the wreck. The proficiency in Spanish of the Chono led by Martín Olleta was good enough to communicate with the Spanish-speaking surgeon of the British party. The Chono largely disappear from the historical record after the 18th century, but sporadic references remained. Thomas Bridges reported having met Chonos in

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1974-459: The title of subdelegado marítimo which gave him some duties and authority over the archipelago, in reality it meant little since he did no had the means to enforce the law or his rights. After Westhoff's retirement in the 1870s Ciriaco Álvarez rose to prominence as the foremost Pilgerodendron businessman. The chief export products of Álvarez were poles and vine training stacks that went to northern Chile and Peru . Álvarez business owned him

2021-1749: The use of the main waterways under maritime authority dispositions for the following navigation lanes (all names in Spanish): a) throughout the Strait of Magellan : Punta Dúngenes - Primera Angostura - Segunda Angostura, Paso Nuevo -Paso Inglés - Paso Tortuoso - Paso Largo - Paso del Mar - Cabo Pilar (and back). b) from Cabo Tamar to isla San Pedro  : Cabo Tamar - Canal Smyth - Canal Mayne or Canal Gray - Paso Victoria - Estrecho Collingwood - Paso Farquhar - Canal Sarmiento - Angostura Guías - Canal Inocentes - Canal Concepción - Paso Caffin - Canal Trinidad - either Pacific Ocean, (and back) or to continue Canal Wide - either (east route) Canal Icy - Canal Grappler or (west route) Canal Escape - Paso del Abismo or Paso Piloto Pardo - Canal Escape; then Paso del Indio - Angostura Inglesa - Canal Messier to Isla San Pedro, (and back) or from Cabo Ladrillero to Canal Concepción to inner channels (and back) c) From Strait of Magellan to Puerto Natales or Puerto Bories : from Isla Brinkley - Seno Unión - Canal Morla Vicuña - Canal y angostura Kirke - Canal Valdés, Golfo Almirante Montt - Canal Señoret - Seno Última Esperanza - Puerto Natales - Puerto Bories (and back) d) from Strait of Magellan to Puerto Williams : from islote Anxious - Canal Magdalena - Canal Cockburn - Paso Brecknock or Canal Ocasión - Canal Unión - Paso Occidental - Paso Norte - Canal Ballenero- Canal O'Brien - Paso Timbales - Brazo noroeste del Canal Beagle - Canal Beagle - Puerto Williams (and back).(Chilean ships can use Paso Aguirre) e) from Puerto Williams to Cabo de Hornos : Canal Beagle - Paso Picton - Paso Richmond - to Cabo de Hornos (and back) f) to

2068-567: The zone, and finally, to search for a mythical city called City of the Caesars . False rumors of European settlements near the Straits of Magellan led the Spanish to organize the Antonio de Vea expedition of 1675–1676, the largest expedition to the date. In 1792, the viceroy of Peru ordered the exploration of the Patagonian channels in order to find an entrance to the interior of Patagonia. The said order

2115-461: Was a Chilean Navy officer and explorer. Simpson mapped the archipelagoes and coast of Aysén Region onboard of the corvette Chacabuco in the 1870s. Among his feats is the re-discovery of San Rafael Lake and the insight that Aisén Fjord provides the best access to the interior of Patagonia from the Pacific. Simpson River is named after him. This article about a Chilean scientist

2162-538: Was carried of by José de Moraleda who led an expedition that visited many of the main channels of the zone. Following the decline of the Chono populations in the archipelago in the 18th century, the area gained a reputation of "emptiness" among Chileans akin to the description of eastern Patagonia as a "desert." However, the islands were often visited and traversed in the 19th century by fishermen, lumberjacks , and hunters from Chiloé. This makes it clear that many areas that were traversed by explorers were already known to

2209-483: Was conquered, from there on southern expansion of the Spanish Empire halted. The Spanish are thought to have lacked incentives for further conquests south. The indigenous populations were scarce and had ways of life that differed from the sedentary agricultural life the Spanish were accustomed to. The harsh climate in the fjords and channels of Patagonia may also have deterred further expansion. Indeed, even in Chiloé did

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