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50-708: As shown by photographs taken in 1904 and 1938, the Pargo Kaling chorten was one of three chortens: a second one was perched on the low ridge of Marpori and a third one stood on the low ridge of Chagpori. From the top of the middle chorten, wires furnished with small bells were stretched to the top of the two smaller chortens. The Tibetan name of the Western Gate has several variants besides Pargo Kaling: Pawogaling ( Peter Aufschnaiter ), Drakgo Kaling (André Alexander), Barkokani or Bakokani (G. Ts. Tsybikoff), and Bar chorten (also G. Ts. Tsybikoff). The oldest known representation of

100-727: A cartographer and then in New Delhi , for the Indian Army . In 1955, he first-ascended Ronti (6063 m) in the Garhwal Himalaya together with Canadian George Hampson in pure alpine style . He eventually obtained a Nepalese passport which allowed him access to many restricted remote areas and he discovered valuable early Buddhist frescos . Aufschnaiter spent most of his remaining years in Nepal, working as an agricultural engineer. At first he worked for Swiss Technical Aid. From 1956 on he held

150-657: A buttress on the left side of the Diamir Face. In 1970, brothers Günther and Reinhold Messner made the third ascent of the mountain and the first ascent of the Rupal Face. They were unable to descend by their original route, and instead descended by the Diamir Face, making the first traverse of the mountain. Günther was killed in an avalanche on the Diamir Face, where his remains were found in 2005. In 1971, Slovak mountaineers Ivan Fiala and Michal Orolin summited Nanga Parbat via Buhl's 1953 route while other expedition members climbed

200-541: A horse and rode back to the lowlands. Several months later, when the remaining three were still without visas for Tibet, Kopp gave up too and left for Nepal (where he was handed over to the British within a few days). Aufschnaiter and Harrer, helped by the former's knowledge of the Tibetan language, proceeded to the capital of Lhasa which they reached on 15 January 1946, having crossed Western Tibet (passing holy Mount Kailash ),

250-473: A long ridge. There are a number of subsidiary summits, including North Peak (7,816 m or 25,643 ft) some three kilometres (2 mi) north of the main summit. Near the base of the Rupal Face is a glacial lake called Latbo, above a seasonal shepherds' village of the same name. As a result of its accessibility, attempts to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat began very soon after it was discovered by Europeans. In 1895, Albert F. Mummery led an expedition to

300-565: A photo of the chorten with the caption "Pawogaling, the Western Stupa below the Potala." A photo of the famous landmark is on the cover of Kamal Ratna Tuladhar's book, Caravan to Lhasa , published in 2004, about the story of Nepalese Newar traders in Tibet from the 1920s to the 1960s. In the 1980s, the lost Western Gate inspired a song sung by Tibetan singer Dadon. The lyrics of the first verse and

350-520: A position as an agriculture expert for the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization . Aufschnaiter returned to Austria much later in life and died in Innsbruck in 1973 at the age of 73. He is buried at Kitzbüheler Bergfriedhof, Austria. Only very late in his life, the introverted Aufschnaiter began writing memoirs but did not see them published. After his death, the manuscript was first in

400-444: A storm at 7,480 m (24,540 ft). During the desperate retreat that followed, three famous German mountaineers, Ulrich Wieland  [ de ] , Willo Welzenbach  [ de ] and Merkl himself, as well as six Sherpas , died of exhaustion, exposure, and altitude sickness, and several others suffered severe frostbite . The last survivor to reach safety, Ang Tsering , did so having spent seven days battling through

450-688: Is Zoji La in Kashmir Valley , which connects it to higher peaks in the remaining Himalaya-Karakoram range. On the Tibetan Plateau , Nanga Parbat is the westernmost peak of the Himalayas, whereas Namcha Barwa marks the east end. The core of Nanga Parbat is a long ridge trending southwest-to-northeast. The ridge is composed of an enormous bulk of ice and rock. It has three faces: the Diamir, Rakhiot, and Rupal faces. The southwestern portion of this main ridge

500-551: Is known as the Mazeno Ridge , and has a number of subsidiary peaks. In the other direction, the main ridge arcs northeast at Rakhiot Peak (7,070 m or 23,200 ft). The south/southeast side of the mountain is dominated by the Rupal Face. The north/northwest side of the mountain, leading to the Indus, is more complex. It is split into the Diamir (west) face and the Rakhiot (north) face by

550-402: Is one of only two peaks on Earth that rank in the top twenty of both the highest mountains in the world, and the most prominent peaks in the world, ranking ninth and fourteenth respectively. The other mountain is the famous Mount Everest , which ranks first on both lists. Nanga Parbat is also the second most prominent peak of the Himalayas, after Mount Everest . The key col for Nanga Parbat

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600-406: Is sometimes referred to as a German-American expedition, as the eight climbers included Rand Herron, an American, and Fritz Wiessner , who would become an American citizen the following year. While the team were all strong climbers, none had Himalayan experience, and poor planning (particularly an inadequate number of porters ), coupled with bad weather, prevented the team from progressing far beyond

650-580: The Nanga Parbat , Aufschnaiter led a small four-man expedition in 1939, including Heinrich Harrer , to the Diamir Face with the aim of finding an easier route to the peak. Having concluded that the face was viable, they were in Karachi at the end of August waiting for a freighter to take them home. The ship being long overdue, Harrer, Ludwig and Lobenhoffer tried to reach Persia with their shaky car, but several hundred kilometers northwest of Karachi were put under

700-867: The Rakhiot Peak northeast of the Nanga Parbat summit, reached by Peter Aschenbrenner  [ de ] and Herbert Kunigk, but they did establish the feasibility of a route via Rakhiot Peak and the main ridge. Merkl led another expedition in 1934, which was better prepared and financed with full support from the new Nazi government . Early in the expedition Alfred Drexel died, likely due to high altitude pulmonary edema . The Tyrolean climbers, Peter Aschenbrenner and Erwin Schneider  [ de ] , reached an estimated height of 7,900 m (25,900 ft) on July 6, but were forced to return because of worsening weather. On July 7, they and 14 others were trapped by

750-411: The "protection" of British soldiers and escorted back to Karachi, where Aufschnaiter had stayed on. Two days later, war was declared and on 3 September 1939, all were put behind barbed wire to be transferred to a detention camp at Ahmednagar near Bombay two weeks later. They considered escaping to Portuguese Goa , but when further transferred to Dehradun , they found Tibet more promising. Their goal

800-650: The Chinese People's Liberation Army to Lhasa forced Aufschnaiter and Harrer to join the caravan of the Dalai Lama when he retreated to the Chumbi Valley bordering Sikkim and India. Harrer proceeded to India, but Aufschnaiter stayed at Gyantse and left Tibet only 10 months later. Harrer's book, Seven years in Tibet states that, "On 20 December 1950, Peter left Lhasa. Heinrich Harrer had already left for southern Tibet in

850-510: The Diamir Face and achieved the first completely solo ascent of an 8,000-metre (26,000 ft) peak. In 1984, the French climber Lilliane Barrard became the first woman to climb Nanga Parbat, along with her husband Maurice Barrard . In 1985, Jerzy Kukuczka , Zygmunt Heinrich, Slawomir Lobodzinski (all Polish), and Carlos Carsolio (Mexico) climbed up the Southeast Pillar (or Polish Spur) on

900-421: The Indus and Yarlung Tsangpo / Brahmaputra rivers, it is the western anchor of the entire mountain range. Nanga Parbat is one of the 14 eight-thousanders . An immense, dramatic peak rising far above its surrounding terrain, it has the second-highest prominence among the 100 tallest mountains on Earth only behind Mount Everest . Nanga Parbat is notorious for being an extremely difficult climb, and has earned

950-618: The Mountains';), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at 8,126 m (26,660 ft) above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir , Nanga Parbat is the westernmost major peak of the Himalayas , and thus in the traditional view of the Himalayas as bounded by

1000-635: The Pargo Kaling Gate is found on a map of the city of Lhasa drawn by Nikita Bichurin in the first half of the 19th century. In the left lower corner, the larger centre chorten with its through-passage can be seen in between the two smaller side chortens. The Western Gate was the scene of the entrance of the British Army's invasion force to Lhasa on August 4, 1904. Preceded by the Chinese Imperial commissioner's escort., Younghusband's soldiers entered

1050-867: The Rupal Face by Barry Blanchard , Mark Twight , Ward Robinson, and Kevin Doyle. 2005 saw a resurgence of lightweight, alpine-style attempts on the Rupal Face. Nanga Parbat was first successfully climbed in winter on February 26, 2016, by a team consisting of Ali Sadpara , Alex Txikon, and Simone Moro . The second winter ascent was made by the Polish climber Tomasz Mackiewicz and Frenchwoman Élisabeth Revol on January 25, 2018. Previous attempts of winter climbing: On June 23, 2013, about 15 extremist militants wearing Gilgit Scouts uniforms shot and killed ten foreign climbers (one Lithuanian, three Ukrainians, two Slovaks, two Chinese, one Chinese-American, and one Nepali) and one Pakistani guide at Base Camp. Another foreign victim

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1100-698: The Silver Saddle, halfway between Rakhiot Peak and Nanga Parbat summit, was reached. Heinrich Harrer , an expert mountaineer, was a member of the SS Alpine unit. The unit practiced on the Eiger in Switzerland in 1938. When the group returned to Germany, Adolf Hitler met with them. In May 1939, Harrer was selected by the German Himalayan Foundation to take part in a new expedition to Nanga Parbat, under

1150-494: The Snow . He interviewed many old Sherpas, including Ang Tsering, the last man off Nanga Parbat alive in 1934. The book attempts to narrate what went wrong on the expedition, set against the mountaineering history of the early twentieth century, the background of German politics in the 1930s, and the hardship and passion of life in the Sherpa valleys. The 1953 documentary Nanga Parbat 1953

1200-544: The South-West with Gyirong County and the Northern Changthang Plateau. From then on Aufschnaiter played an important role in Tibet. Employed by the government he helped plan a hydroelectric power plant and a sewage system for Lhasa and started first attempts at river regulations and reforestation in the area. He also looked into improving the quality of seeds. With Harrer he charted the first exact map of

1250-593: The camp. While Magener and von Have took the train to Calcutta and from there found their way to the Japanese army in Burma, the others headed for the closest border. After Sattler had given up on 10 May, the remaining four entered Tibet crossing the Tsang Chok-la Pass (5,896 metres) on 17 May 1944 and thereafter split into two groups: Harrer and Kopp, Aufschnaiter and Treipel. On 17 June Treipel, exhausted, bought himself

1300-513: The capital city. His archaeological findings led to a correspondence with the scholar Giuseppe Tucci . His extensive work is described in Heinrich Harrer's Seven Years in Tibet and Harrer's autobiography Beyond Seven Years in Tibet: my life before, during and after . Aufschnaiter's own book, Eight Years in Tibet , includes many of his own photographs and sketches. In October 1950 the advance of

1350-460: The chorus go like this: In front of the Potala Palace / There were three beloved stupas / Whenever the wind stirred the chimes / What resounding music there was / How melodious it sounded. Aah stupa Drago Kaling / Aah, in my mind I suddenly remember / In the depth of my heart I suddenly remember you. Peter Aufschnaiter Peter Aufschnaiter (2 November 1899 – 12 October 1973)

1400-484: The city through the arch in the Pargo Kaling chorten The Pargo Kaling chorten was also depicted in a scene of the 1997 movie Seven Years in Tibet , which was the adaptation of the book of that title by Heinrich Harrer . The cover art of the original motion picture soundtrack shows actor Brad Pitt and the young 14th Dalai Lama with the chorten in the background. The English version of Peter Aufschnaiter 's memoirs Eight Years in Tibet , published in 2002, includes

1450-514: The expedition leader was Peter Aschenbrenner from Kufstein , who had participated in the 1932 and 1934 attempts. By the time of this expedition, 31 people had already died on the mountain. The final push for the summit was dramatic: Buhl continued alone for the final 1,300 metres (4,300 ft), after his companions had turned back. Under the influence of the drug pervitin (based on the stimulant methamphetamine used by soldiers during World War II ), padutin, and tea from coca leaves, he reached

1500-477: The leadership of Peter Aufschnaiter . Their goal was to scout new ways to ascend the north-western face. They explored the Diamir Face with the aim of finding an easier route. They concluded that the face was a viable route, but World War II intervened and the four men were interned by the British in Dehradun , India. Harrer's and Aufschnaiter's escape and subsequent wanderings across the Tibetan Plateau became

1550-621: The middle of November, finally leaving the country in March 1951. But Aufschnaiter wanted to stay in Tibet as long as possible, and in fact remained another ten months. (...) at this time he was on the south-western frontier of Tibet. On the way there he visited the monastery of Rongphu, which the Chinese had not yet destroyed, and from there climbed, alone, as far as No. 1 camp on the northern ascent route to Everest." He arrived in Nepal in 1952 where he worked as

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1600-498: The nickname Killer Mountain for its high number of climber fatalities and pushing climbers to the test of their limits. The name Nanga Parbat is derived from the Sanskrit words nagna and parvata , which, when combined, translate to "Naked Mountain". The name refers to the south face, which is usually snowless. The mountain is known locally by its Tibetan name Diamer or Deo Mir , meaning "huge mountain". Nanga Parbat forms

1650-623: The peak, accompanied by Geoffrey Hastings , and reached almost 6,100 m (20,000 ft) on the Diamir (West) Face, but Mummery and two Gurkha companions later died reconnoitering the Rakhiot Face. In the 1930s, Nanga Parbat became the focus of German interest in the Himalayas. The German mountaineers were unable to attempt Mount Everest , since only the British had access to Tibet . Initially German efforts focused on Kangchenjunga , to which Paul Bauer led two expeditions in 1930 and 1931, but with its long ridges and steep faces, Kangchenjunga

1700-2437: The possession of mountaineer Paul Bauer . Finally it was edited and published by Tibet scholar Martin Brauen of the Museum of Ethnology at the University of Zurich . In the 1997 film Seven Years in Tibet , Aufschnaiter, who was portrayed by David Thewlis , falls in love with the local tailor Pema Lhaki, and marries her. Nanga Parbat#Early attempts Legend： 1： Mount Everest ,  2： Kangchenjunga ,  3： Lhotse ,  4： Yalung Kang, Kanchenjunga West ,  5： Makalu ,  6： Kangchenjunga South ,  7： Kangchenjunga Central ,  8： Cho Oyu ,  9： Dhaulagiri ,  10： Manaslu (Kutang) ,  11： Nanga Parbat (Diamer) ,  12： Annapurna ,  13： Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma) ,  14： Manaslu East ,  15： Annapurna East Peak ,  16： Gyachung Kang ,  17： Annapurna II ,  18： Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri) ,  19： Kangbachen ,  20： Himalchuli (Himal Chuli) ,  21： Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna) ,  22： Nuptse (Nubtse) ,  23： Nanda Devi ,  24： Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho) ,  25： Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa) ,  26： Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak) ,  27： Kamet ,  28： Dhaulagiri II ,  29： Ngojumba Kang II ,  30： Dhaulagiri III ,  31： Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu) ,  32： Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan) ,  33： Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III) ,  34： Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen) ,  35： Dhaulagiri IV ,  36： Annapurna Fang ,  37： Silver Crag ,  38： Kangbachen Southwest ,  39： Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum) ,  40： Annapurna III ,  41： Himalchuli West ,  42： Annapurna IV ,  43： Kula Kangri ,  44： Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri) ,  45： Ngadi Chuli South Nanga Parbat ( Urdu : نانگا پربت ) ( Urdu: [nəŋɡa pərbət̪] ; lit.   ' naked mountain ' ), known locally as Diamer ( Shina : دیآمر , lit.   'King of

1750-413: The right-hand side of the Rupal Face, reaching the summit July 13. It was Kukuczka's ninth 8,000-metre (26,000 ft) summit. Also in 1985, a Polish women's team climbed the peak via the 1962 German Diamir Face route. Wanda Rutkiewicz , Krystyna Palmowska, and Anna Czerwinska reached the summit on July 15. "Modern" superalpinism was brought to Nanga Parbat in 1988 with an unsuccessful attempt or two on

1800-489: The south, Nanga Parbat has what is often referred to as the highest mountain face in the world: the Rupal Face rises 4,600 m (15,090 ft) above its base. To the north, the complex, somewhat more gently-sloped Rakhiot Flank rises 7,000 m (23,000 ft) from the Indus River valley to the summit in just 25 km (16 mi), one of the ten greatest elevation gains in such a short distance on Earth. Nanga Parbat

1850-649: The southeast peak (7,600 m or 24,900 ft) above the Silbersattel and the foresummit (7,850 m or 25,750 ft) above the Bazhin Gap. In 1976 a team of four made the sixth summit via a new route on the Rupal Face (second ascent on this face), then named the Schell route after the Austrian team leader. The line had been plotted by Karl Herrligkoffer on a previous unsuccessful attempt. In 1978, Reinhold Messner returned to

1900-419: The storm. It has been said that the disaster, "for sheer protracted agony, has no parallel in climbing annals." In 1937, Karl Wien led another expedition to the mountain, following the same route as Merkl's expeditions had done. Progress was made, but more slowly than before due to heavy snowfall. About 14 June, seven Germans and nine Sherpas, almost the entire team, were at Camp IV below Rakhiot Peak when it

1950-645: The subject of Harrer's book Seven Years in Tibet . Some evidence of this expedition is kept in the National Archives of Washington, D.C. Nanga Parbat was first climbed, via the Rakhiot Flank (East Ridge), on July 3, 1953, by Austrian climber Hermann Buhl on the German–Austrian Nanga Parbat expedition , a member of a German-Austrian team. The expedition was organized by the half-brother of Willy Merkl, Karl Herrligkoffer from Munich , while

2000-414: The summit dangerously late, at 7:00 p.m., the climbing harder and more time-consuming than he had anticipated. His descent was slowed when he lost a crampon . Caught by darkness, he was forced to bivouac standing upright on a narrow ledge, holding a small handhold with one hand. Exhausted, he dozed occasionally, but managed to maintain his balance. He was also very fortunate to have a calm night, so he

2050-748: The time. He took part in expeditions to Kangchenjunga (1929 and 1931) in Sikkim , where he reached a height of 7,700 m (25,300 ft). On these expeditions he had first contacts with Tibetans and learned the Tibetan language . After the Machtergreifung of 30 January 1933, he joined the Nazi Party . From 1936 he worked full-time for the German Himalaya Foundation  [ de ] established that year by Paul Bauer . After several attempts at

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2100-718: The western anchor of the Himalayan Range and is the westernmost eight-thousander . It lies just south of the Indus River in the Diamer District of Gilgit–Baltistan in Pakistani-administered Kashmir . In some places, the river flows more than 7 kilometres ( 4 + 1 ⁄ 2 miles) below the high-point of the massif . To the north is the western end of the Karakoram range. Nanga Parbat has tremendous vertical relief over local terrain in all directions. To

2150-440: Was also later dramatized by Canadian film director Donald Shebib in the 1986 film The Climb . The second ascent of Nanga Parbat was via the Diamir Face, in 1962, by Germans Toni Kinshofer , Siegfried Löw, and A. Mannhardt. This route has become the "standard route" on the mountain. The Kinshofer route does not ascend the middle of the Diamir Face, which is threatened by avalanches from large hanging glaciers. Instead it climbs

2200-933: Was an Austrian mountaineer , agricultural scientist , geographer and cartographer . His experiences with fellow climber Heinrich Harrer during World War II were depicted in the 1997 film Seven Years in Tibet . Born in Kitzbühel , Austria-Hungary , Peter Aufschnaiter attended high school in Kufstein . During his school education he was drafted into military service in the First World War in 1917. After he finished his final exams in 1919 he went to Munich in Germany to study agriculture. In his early years he began climbing in his beloved Kaiser mountain range; later, in Munich , Aufschnaiter became acquainted with several German alpinists of

2250-557: Was filmed and directed by cinematographer Hans Ertl , who participated in the expedition and climbed to camp 5 (6500m). Nanga Parbat is a movie by Joseph Vilsmaier about the 1970 expedition of brothers Günther Messner and Reinhold Messner . Donald Shebib 's 1986 film The Climb covers the story of Hermann Buhl making the first ascent. A 2021 documentary records the background for the 2019 Nardi/Ballard attempt . Jean-Jacques Annaud 's 1997 film Seven Years in Tibet opens with Heinrich Harrer 's obsession to climb Nanga Parbat at

2300-453: Was injured. The attack occurred at around 1 AM and was claimed by a local branch of the Taliban ( Tehrik-i-Taliban Pakistan ). In the first chapter of Mistress of Mistresses , by E.R. Eddison , the narrator compares his then-deceased compatriot, Lessingham, to Nanga Parbat in a descriptive passage: Jonathan Neale wrote a book about the 1934 climbing season on Nanga Parbat called Tigers of

2350-411: Was more difficult than Everest and neither expedition made much progress. K2 was known to be harder still, and its remoteness meant that even reaching its base would be a major undertaking. Nanga Parbat was therefore the highest mountain accessible to Germans and was also deemed reasonably possible by climbers at the time. The first German expedition to Nanga Parbat was led by Willy Merkl in 1932. It

2400-407: Was not subjected to wind chill . He finally reached his high camp at 7:00 p.m. the next day, 40 hours after setting out. The ascent was made without oxygen, and Buhl is the only man to have made the first ascent of an 8,000-metre (26,000 ft) peak alone. The 1953 documentary film Nanga Parbat 1953 was filmed and directed by Hans Ertl , who participated in the expedition. Buhl's climb

2450-409: Was overrun by an avalanche . All sixteen men died. The search team found that the tents had been buried by ice and snow rather than swept away. One of the victim's diaries read "our situation here is not quite safe from avalanches". The Germans returned in 1938 led by Paul Bauer, but the expedition was plagued by bad weather, and Bauer, mindful of the previous disasters, ordered the party down before

2500-638: Was the Japanese front in Burma or China. Aufschnaiter and Harrer escaped and were re-captured a number of times before finally succeeding. On 29 April 1944 after lunch a group of seven, Rolf Magener and Heins von Have disguised as British officers, Harrer, Aufschnaiter, the Salzburger Bruno Treipel (aka Treipl) and the Berliners Hans Kopp and Sattler, disguised as native Indian workers, walked out of

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