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Manawatāwhi / Three Kings Islands

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40-604: The Manawatāwhi / Three Kings Islands (Manawatāwhi is also the Māori name for the largest island) are a group of 13 uninhabited islands about 55 kilometres (34 mi) northwest of Cape Reinga / Te Rerenga Wairua , New Zealand , where the South Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea converge. They measure 6.85 km (2.64 sq mi) in area. The islands are on a submarine plateau, the Three Kings Bank, and are separated from

80-770: A Commander of the Order of the British Empire , for services to marine science, in the 1981 New Year Honours . Powell died on 1 July 1987 in Auckland. Powell married Isabel Essie Gittos on 19 December 1928, at Devonport in Auckland. They had a son. Gittos died in 1976. Two years later, he married Ida Madoline Worthy (née Hayes) at Whangārei . Taxa named after him include: The World Register of Marine Species mentions 837 marine taxa, named by Powell. Many have become synonyms. Powell wrote over 100 scientific papers and three books. His 500-page New Zealand Mollusca , published in 1979,

120-478: A Powell family since 1731, when Susannah Powell née Thistlethwayte (1696–1762) gave to her child (1731–1792) the maiden name of her mother, Susannah Baden (1663–1692). The name Baden, particularly when associated with the surname Powell, became famous in 1900–1901, the year Arthur William Baden Powell was born, because of the siege of Mafeking , the most famous British action in the Second Boer War , which turned

160-554: A male and a female respectively. The cape is often mistakenly thought of as being the northernmost point of the North Island, and thus, of mainland New Zealand. However, North Cape 's Surville Cliffs , 30 km east of Cape Reinga are 3 km further north. Another headland just to the west of Cape Reinga is Cape Maria van Diemen , which was named by the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman during his journey in 1642 and thought of by him to be

200-578: A position he held until he retired in 1968. In 1947, Powell published the book Native Animals of New Zealand , a best-selling handbook of native fauna of the country. Powell was a fellow of the Royal Society of New Zealand from 1940 and was the recipient of the Hector Memorial Medal and Prize in 1947. He also received an honorary DSc in 1956 from the University of New Zealand and was appointed

240-567: Is a reptile species only found on these islands. Many marine invertebrates found around the islands are also endemic, such as the molluscs Haliotis pirimoana (Manawatāwhi pāua) and Penion lineatus . There is considerable evidence that the Three Kings Islands have not been recently connected to the North Island landmass but have been connected to each other by land bridges. Genetic studies of different insect populations have suggested different separation times from similar species found in

280-521: Is also the northern terminus of the Te Araroa hiking trail. According to mythology , the spirits of the dead travel to Cape Reinga on their journey to the afterlife to leap off the headland and climb the roots of the 800-year-old pōhutukawa tree and descend to the underworld to return to their traditional homeland of Hawaiki , using the Te Ara Wairua , the 'Spirits' pathway'. At Cape Reinga they depart

320-512: Is generally considered the separation marker between the Tasman Sea to the west and the Pacific Ocean to the east. From the lighthouse it is possible to watch the tidal race , as the two seas clash to create unsettled waters just off the coast. The Māori refer to this as the meeting of Te Moana-a-Rehua , 'the sea of Rehua' with Te Tai-o-Whitirea , 'the sea of Whitirea', Rehua and Whitirea being

360-411: Is on the tentative list of UNESCO waiting to receive World Heritage Site status. As of 2007 , the cape is already a favourite tourist attraction, with over 120,000 visitors a year and around 1,300 cars arriving per day during peak season. Visitor numbers are growing by about five percent a year, and the increase is likely to become even more now that the road to the cape is fully sealed. Cape Reinga

400-417: Is surrounded by 70-90m high cliffs. Māori stonework and terracing can be found on the island. Farmer Rocks, 0.8 km east of Manawatāwhi / Great Island, are 5 metres high and just a few hundred square metres in size. The second largest island of the group, at 0.38 square kilometres (0.15 sq mi) and a height of 207 metres (679 ft). It is about 4.5 km southwest of Great island. The island

440-414: Is surrounded by 80-120m high cliffs. The Princes Islands are seven small islets and numerous rocks with a total area of about 0.2 km, start 600 m west of South West Island and stretch about 1.8 km east–west. The north-eastern islet is the highest at 106 m. The smallest islet is Rosemary Rock . These islands are sparsely vegetated. The third largest island at 0.16 km, found 500m southwest of

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480-446: Is the final glimpse of New Zealand seen by departing spirits, after leaving the world at Cape Reinga / Te Rerenga Wairua . Some Te Aupōuri traditions associate the name of the island, Manawatāwhi ("panting breath"), with the ancestor Rauru, who swam to the islands and arrived exhausted. Members of Ngāti Kurī would periodically come to the islands as a refuge during times of warfare, and to harvest hāpuku , seabirds and eggs. `Most of

520-482: Is the wreck of the Elingamite which foundered there on 9 November 1902. With an area of 4.04 square kilometres (1.56 sq mi), Manawatāwhi / Great Island is by far the largest island of the group. A northeastern peninsula , with an area of about 1 km, is almost cut off by a 200 m wide but more than 80 m high isthmus formed by North West Bay and South East Bay. The island reaches an elevation of 295 m in

560-465: The Recherche in 1793. In the late 1700s, a party of mainland Te Aupōuri led by Taiakiaki travelled to the islands and killed the approximate 100 inhabitants, led by Toumaramara. Between 1800 and 1830 Te Aupōuri visited sporadically, however did not settle permanently. Tame Porena (also known as Tom Bowline) married Taiakiaki's granddaughter, and settled on the islands with his family of twelve children in

600-509: The Department of Conservation . Rats and mice were never introduced to the Three Kings, although goats were introduced to Great Island and caused significant damage to the vegetation and soil. Cape Reinga Cape Reinga ( / ˈ r eɪ ŋ ə / ; sometimes spelled Rēinga , Māori : Te Rerenga Wairua ), and officially Cape Reinga / Te Rerenga Wairua , is the northwestern most tip of

640-668: The Elam School of Fine Arts . This training, and his interest in conchology , set him on his life's work. From 1916 until 1929, Powell was the honorary conchologist at the Auckland War Memorial Museum . Powell started writing scientific papers on mollusca in 1921, and became one of the few experts in New Zealand shellfish. From 1926 to 1938, Powell undertook comprehensive surveys of the Waitematā and Manukau harbours. He

680-534: The Last Glacial Maximum when sea levels were over 100 metres lower than present day levels, most offshore islands of New Zealand were connected to the mainland. Manawatāwhi / Three Kings Islands, while connected to each other, were not connected to the rest of New Zealand. Sea levels began to rise 7,000 years ago, separating the individual islands in the group. Manawatāwhi was traditionally settled by Muriwhenua Māori . In Māori mythology , Ōhau (West Island)

720-484: The 1830s and 1840s, establishing large gardens, until starvation forced them to relocate to the mainland. Since then, nobody has settled on the islands permanently. Botanist Thomas Frederic Cheeseman visited the islands in 1887 and 1889, documenting the plant species present on the islands for the first time. Cheeseman noted that the Great Island had begun to reforest since Māori settlement. The islands were purchased by

760-538: The British commander of the besieged, Robert Baden-Powell , into a national hero. Throughout the British Empire, babies were named after him. No family connection has yet been established between Arthur William Baden Powell and Robert Baden-Powell. Powell was born at Wellington , New Zealand, on 4 April 1901, to driver Arthur Powell, and his wife, Minnie Sablofski. His schooling was in Auckland , and he trained in printing at

800-575: The British research ship Discovery II exploring coastal Northland and discovering large numbers of new species. Other field trips from the 1930s to 1960 took him to Stewart Island , the Chatham Islands , the Kermadec Islands and the Antarctica and Subantarctic region, resulting in many important papers. In 1936, Powell was appointed as the assistant director of Auckland War Memorial Museum,

840-479: The Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia ). These are the only two geographic features in New Zealand to retain the names given to them by Abel Tasman. Tasman noted a group of 30-35 inhabitants on the island when attempting to come ashore to replenish water supplies, and saw no trees on the island. Since Tasman's visit, several European ships sighted the island, such as French botanist Jacques Labillardière on board

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880-512: The New Zealand government in 1908 from seven Māori people, and declared an animal sanctuary in 1930. A population of goats (left on the Manawatāwhi Island in November 1889 as a food source for shipwrecked people) had run rampant, reaching numbers of 300-400 goats by 1900. This led Baden Powell of the Auckland War Memorial Museum , who visited in a group, to petition the government to deal with

920-549: The New Zealand mainland by an 8 km wide, 200 to 300 m deep submarine trough. Therefore, despite relative proximity to the mainland, the islands are listed with the New Zealand Outlying Islands . The islands are an immediate part of New Zealand, but not part of any region or district , but instead Area Outside Territorial Authority , like all the other outlying islands except the Solander Islands . During

960-570: The Ngatikuri peninsula, at the northern end of the North Island of New Zealand. Cape Reinga is more than 100 km north of the nearest small town of Kaitaia . In Māori, Te Rerenga Wairua means the leaping-off place of spirits . Reinga is the Māori word for underworld . Both refer to the Māori belief that the cape is the point where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld. Cape Reinga

1000-465: The North Island varying from 24 million years ago to 2.24 million years ago. Further, some species of these islands that are within eyeshot of northern New Zealand have stronger genetic links to species now found in Australia or New Caledonia or no genetic links to present New Zealand species. These include the flax snail, Placostylus bollonsi Suter Three Kings Island is a nature reserve administered by

1040-481: The cape and extended, at a cost of NZ$ 6.5 million (for details, see external links below). The road to the cape, one of the last stretches of State Highway 1, was sealed following three years of work and include extensive roadside revegetation with over 150,000 plants to prevent erosion. In March 2009, the works on the visitor facilities were completed. Cape Reinga has a very mild oceanic climate ( Cfb ) with high precipitation and little temperature difference between

1080-513: The fauna and flora of the Three Kings island group including the Three Kings Islands expedition 1970 . The Three Kings group falls into two subgroups with four main inhospitable islands and a number of smaller rocks on a submarine plateau called King Bank which rises out of extremely deep water. There are no beaches. The surrounding sea has very clear visibility and contains teeming fish life, attracting hundreds of divers. Another attraction

1120-509: The first European known to have seen New Zealand. Tasman anchored at the islands when searching for water. As it was the Twelfth Night feast of the Epiphany , the day the biblical three kings known as the wise men visited Christ the child, he named the main island accordingly. Tasman also named a prominent cape Cape Maria van Diemen , after the wife of Anthony van Diemen , Governor-General of

1160-483: The goat population. In 1946 the goat population were shot and removed from the island, leading to the regeneration of forest on Manawatāwhi. However, 50 species described by Cheeseman in the 1880s have not been described again, and by the 1980s two plant species were only represented by one wild specimen. In 1956, the islands were declared a reserve for the preservation of flora and fauna. There have been several notable research expeditions that have concentrated on studying

1200-413: The huge lantern. Baden Powell (malacologist) Arthur William Baden Powell CBE (4 April 1901 – 1 July 1987) was a New Zealand malacologist , naturalist and palaeontologist , a major influence in the study and classification of New Zealand molluscs through much of the 20th century. He was known to his friends and family by his third name, "Baden". The name Baden had been a given name in

1240-437: The larger islands were inhabited, and the Great Island was cleared by Māori of vegetation to grow tuber crops such as kūmara . No defensive pā sites are found on the island, likely as the people who lived on Manawatāwhi did not feel threatened due to the islands' distance from the mainland. Dutch explorer Abel Tasman bestowed the name Drie Koningen Eyland (Three Kings Island) on 6 January 1643, three weeks after he became

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1280-517: The local population mostly converted to Christianity, and the spring was capped with a reservoir, with little protest from the mostly converted population of the area. However, the spring soon disappeared and only reappeared at the bottom of the cliff, making the reservoir useless. In 2007 protests by Māori and increased tourist numbers led the Department of Conservation to announce that the public carpark and toilet facilities, which intrude on traditionally sacred ground, would be moved further away from

1320-424: The mainland. They turn briefly at the Three Kings Islands for one last look back towards the land, then continue on their journey. A spring in the hillside, Te Waiora-a-Tāne (the 'Living waters of Tāne'), also played an important role in Māori ceremonial burials, representing a spiritual cleansing of the spirits, with water of the same name used in burial rites all over New Zealand. This significance lasted until

1360-419: The northernmost point of the newly discovered country he named 'Staten Landt'. Cape Reinga is more than 100 km north of the nearest small town of Kaitaia . State Highway 1 extends all the way to the cape, but until 2010 was unsealed gravel road for the last 19 km. Suitable vehicles can also travel much of the way via Ninety Mile Beach and Kauaeparaoa Stream (Te Paki Stream) stream bed. The cape

1400-426: The seasons. The lighthouse at Cape Reinga was built in 1941 and first lit during May of that year, replacing a lighthouse located on nearby Motuopao Island , which had been built 1879. In 1987, the lighthouse was fully automated and the lighthouse keepers were withdrawn. The previous 1000 watt light and its revolving Fresnel lens have since been replaced with a tiny 50 watt flashing beacon, lodged in their place in

1440-431: The tree and down its roots into the sea bed. They are said to surface again on Ōhau and say a last farewell to New Zealand before going on to Hawaiki. The islands have a volcanic origin. In 1945, G. T. S. Baylis made a remarkable discovery on the Three Kings Islands, when he found the last remaining specimen anywhere of a tree which is now called Pennantia baylisiana , a kaikomako. It was recognised internationally as

1480-597: The western part, while the peninsula is up to 184 m high near its western cliffs. The southern portion consists of the Tasman Valley, a series of rolling hills that drain into the Tasman Stream. Most of the Māori archaeological features on the islands are found in this area. A smaller island about 0.10 square kilometres (0.039 sq mi) in size and reaching a height of 111 metres (364 ft), approximately 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) northeast of Manawatāwhi. The island

1520-475: The westernmost of the Princes Islands. It is 177m high, surrounded by 40-130m high cliffs. The island plays an important part in the traditional Māori belief that the spirits of dead Māori return to their Pacific homeland of Hawaiki. Near Cape Reinga on the mainland, sometimes translated as the underworld, is a gnarled Pōhutukawa tree reputed to be more than 800 years old. The spirits are believed to journey to

1560-812: The world's rarest and thus most endangered tree. Extremely careful propagation in New Zealand has resulted in the species being reliably established, but it continues to be carefully monitored. The islands were made a wildlife sanctuary in 1995. Other plants endemic to the islands include Tecomanthe speciosa and Elingamita johnsonii . The Three Kings have extremely high levels of endemism , even compared to other isolated islands. About 35% of its beetle species are found nowhere else, and there are six endemic genera: Gourlayia ( Carabidae ), Heterodoxa and Pseudopisalia (both Staphylinidae ), Partystona and Zomedes (both Tenebrionidae ) and Tribasileus ( Anthribidae ). There are probably another seven undescribed endemic genera. Falla's skink ( Oligosoma fallai )

1600-794: Was appointed to the Auckland War Memorial Museum as palaeontologist and conchologist in 1929, working on some lesser-known mollusc families. He also studied New Zealand's big land snails, the Paryphanta , and the Placostylus flax snails. In 1931, Powell founded the Auckland Shell Club , also known as the Conchology Section of the Auckland Museum Institute. From 1932 Powell participated in dredging expeditions on

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