Slip-ons are typically low, lace-less shoes . The style which is most commonly seen, known as a loafer , slippers , or penny loafers in American culture, has a moccasin construction. One of the first designs was introduced in London by Wildsmith Shoes , called the Wildsmith Loafer. They began as casual shoes, but have increased in popularity to the point of being worn in America with business suits . Another design was introduced as Aurlandskoen (the Aurland Shoe) in Norway (early 20th century).
25-514: A less casual, earlier type of slip-on is made with side goring (sometimes called a dress loafer ). Made in the same shape as lace-up Oxfords , but lacking the laces, these shoes have elasticated inserts on the side which allow the shoe to be easily removed but remain snug when worn. This cut has its greatest popularity in Britain. A bespoke shoe company based in London that was established in 1847 developed
50-536: A Canadian regalia, e.g. a powwow suit of clothes. The most common style is that of the Plains Indians moccasin. Moccasins protect the foot while allowing the wearer to feel the ground. The Plains Indians wore hard-sole moccasins, given that their territorial geography featured rock and cacti. The eastern Indian tribes wore soft-sole moccasins, for walking in leaf-covered forest ground. In New Zealand and Australia , sheep shearers ' moccasins are constructed of
75-596: A new design called the "Aurland moccasin", later renamed the "Aurland shoe". This design resembles the moccasins used by the Iroquois as well as the design of moccasin-like shoes traditionally worn by locals in Aurland. These traditional shoes resembled slippers and were useful outdoors in fine weather. In 1936 the local shoe handcraft in Aurland was described as a "very old industry" and shoes were sold in large numbers to foreign visitors. A 1953 catalog listed about 10 shoe factories in
100-446: A shoe of deer leather adorned with laces. A driving moccasin (driving moc) is a contemporary version of the traditional Native American moccasin with the addition of rubber tabs on the sole. The addition of rubber-pad sole adds to the versatility and longevity of the shoe while maintaining the flexibility and comfort of a traditional moccasin. They were invented for men who wanted extra grip while driving. There are two variations of
125-419: A side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter- brogue ), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue). Moccasin A moccasin
150-457: A significant part of men's casual shoe wardrobe; in Europe, the style has never reached the same degree of ubiquity. The term penny loafer has uncertain beginnings. One explanation is when American prep school students in the 1950s, wishing to make a fashion statement, took to inserting a penny into the diamond-shaped slit on their Weejuns. Another theory is that two pennies could be slipped into
175-436: A synthetic, cream-colored felt , with a back seam and gathered at the top of the rounded toe. These moccasins are laced in the front, and the lacing is covered with a flap fastened with a buckle at the shoe's outer side. The fastener arrangement prevents the shearer's handpiece comb from catching in the laces. Shearers' moccasins protect the feet, grip wooden floors well, and absorb sweat. The word moccasin can also denote
200-534: A variety of outfits from shorts, jeans, slacks, and capris to dresses and skirts. In an evolution entirely different from the loafer, Chelsea boots were invented by J. Sparkes Hall for Queen Victoria in 1836. The stretchable rubber produces a comfortable shoe combining the convenience of laceless shoes with the profile of lace-ups. Its feminine image was soon lost and was dubbed Congress gaiter and Boston boot in America. Rare even in Britain, its country of origin, it
225-442: Is a shoe , made of deerskin or other soft leather, consisting of a sole (made with leather that has not been "worked") and sides made of one piece of leather, stitched together at the top, and sometimes with a vamp (additional panel of leather). The sole is soft and flexible and the upper part often is adorned with embroidery or beading. Though sometimes worn inside, it is chiefly intended for outdoor use. Historically, it
250-402: Is characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp , a feature termed "closed lacing". This contrasts with Derbys , or bluchers , which have shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp. Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather, but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for formal, uniform, or casual wear. On the basis of function and
275-751: Is sometimes used for any more formal lace-up shoe, including the Blucher and Derby . In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt , a style common on boots . Oxford shoes are also known for their variation or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are commonly referred to styles. Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than those with open lacing (Bluchers/Derbys). A particular type of oxford shoe
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#1732883470179300-592: Is still the only style of slip-on worn with a suit in some of the highly conservative working environments in the City of London . With such a background, their use mimics that of Oxfords, so they are worn in brown with broguing as a country shoe, or in plainer, black styles with suits. Michael Jackson wore penny loafers during his performances, and it became one of his most iconic styles while performing. His moonwalk , toe stand , and other moves were mostly performed in penny loafers. Oxford shoe An Oxford shoe
325-530: Is the footwear of many indigenous people of North America ; moreover, hunters, traders, and European settlers wore them. Etymologically, the moccasin derives from the Algonquian language Powhatan word makasin (cognate to Massachusett mohkisson / mokussin , Ojibwa makizin , Mi'kmaq mksɨn ), and from the Proto-Algonquian word * maxkeseni (shoe). In the 1800s, moccasins usually were part of
350-508: Is the wholecut oxford, its upper made from a single piece of leather with only a single seam at the back or in the rare exception no seams at all. Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland , where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle . However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University . This shoe style did not appear in North America until
375-554: The 1800s. In the United States , Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to " Blucher -type". In France , Oxfords are known as Richelieu , or Molière in Belgium and Luxembourg. Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800. Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into
400-565: The Atlantic and were worn by 1970s businessmen, becoming almost a Wall Street uniform, reaching widespread use by the 1980s. At the start of the twenty-first century, a revival of penny loafers, whose popularity had peaked during the mid- to late 1960s and again during the early 1980s to early 1990s, occurred, with the shoe appearing in a more rugged version, closer to the original concept, as either moccasins , or espadrilles , both of these styles being very low or flat without heels. This resurgence
425-498: The design. N. Tveranger obtained a diploma at the Bergen exhibition in 1910 for his "Aurland shoe". The first Aurland shoes were also made with laces and a decorative upper side similar to the brogue shoe . Colors were initially natural until approximately 1960 when they were also painted black. At age 13 Tveranger went to North America where he learned the craft of shoemaking and returned to Norway at age 20. Around 1930, Tveranger introduced
450-465: The dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuine patent leather , suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned ( brogue ). The meaning of "Oxford" and "balmoral" may vary geographically. In the United States and Scotland, "Balmoral" is often synonymous with "Oxford". In the United States , "Oxford"
475-468: The early 1930s, naming them loafers , a general term for slip-on shoes which is still in use in America. In 1934, G.H. Bass (a bootmaker in Wilton, Maine ) started making loafers under the name Weejuns (sounding like Nor wegians ). The distinctive addition was a strip of leather across the saddle with a diamond cut-out. Initially only worn in the summer at home, the shoe grew in popularity in America to become
500-569: The first loafer as a country house shoe for the landed gentry and the royal family. The "Wildsmith Loafer" made by Raymond Lewis Wildsmith of Wildsmith Shoes , was designed for King George VI as a casual house shoe. The shoe has subsequently been marketed and sold by other London shoe firms and dubbed "the Harrow". Shoemaker Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger (1874–1953) in Aurland , Norway, introduced his first design around 1908. Tveranger obtained protection for
525-528: The loafer enjoys general use as a casual and informal shoe worn for work and leisure, though lace-ups are still preferred for more formal situations. The general popularity of brown over black extends to loafers, sometimes using exotic leathers such as suede and cordovan. Since the early 1980s, socks have been optional while wearing loafers. Though originally men's shoes, some styles of loafers, such as casual tassel and penny loafers, are also worn by women. Women's loafers tend to have shorter toes and are worn with
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#1732883470179550-511: The mid-1950s, further continental influences brought a more elegant image to light, lower-cut slip-ons, which moved from purely casual use to being paired with suits in the 1960s (but still only in America). In 1966, Italian designer Gucci made the further step of adding a metal strap across the front in the shape of a horse's snaffle bit . These Gucci loafers (now a general term referring to shoes of this style by any manufacturer) also spread over
575-514: The slit, enough money to make an emergency phone call in the 1930s. This, however, is an urban legend , as pay phone calls in the USA have never been less than five cents, nor have the pay phones ever accepted pennies. Either way, the name penny loafer came to be applied to this style of slip-on and has since stuck. The practice continues, especially among those who remain committed to a classic and refined but still scholarly appearance, such as lawyers. In
600-623: The small village of Aurland. When exported to the USA the Aurland shoes were called "Norwegian Moccasins". The Norwegians began exporting them to the rest of Europe, where they were taken up by visiting Americans, and championed by the American Esquire magazine. Some photographs included with the Esquire feature were of Norwegian farmers in a cattle loafing area. The Spaulding family in New Hampshire started making shoes based on this design in
625-520: Was most noticeable at college campuses across America. Another variation on the basic style is the tassel loafer, which emerged in the 1950s. Again, though casual, their gradual acceptance among the American East Coast prep school culture as equivalent to brogues (wingtips), has led to them being worn there with suits, where they gained an association with business and legal classes. In the United States and some European countries, such as Italy,
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