Misplaced Pages

#230769

55-494: The mission of the group is responsible for research and experimentation in controlling extreme physical and climatic conditions. It also participates in training of the mountain units and represent the french mountain units abroad. They collaborate with various brands to make better equipment for the army. The French Armed Forces are pioneer in the domain of exploration and adventure, especially in mountain area. The captain Clerc of

110-470: A WI-grade . Mixed climbing routes have significant elements that are pure rock, which in some cases may be completely dry (e.g. as found on some North American mixed climbing routes), but in many cases is covered in a thin layer of ice and snow (e.g. as found in Scottish mixed climbing), thus making pure rock or ice climbing techniques impossible. The mixed climber uses their ice axe and crampons to advance up

165-717: A 19th century military conflict between the Russian Empire and various peoples of the North Caucasus who resisted subjugation during the Russian conquest of the Caucasus . The first British invasion of Afghanistan ended in 1842, when 16,000 British soldiers and camp followers were killed as they retreated from Kabul through the Hindu Kush back to India. Mountain warfare came to the fore once again during World War I , when some of

220-583: A bolted sport climbing M8. The American Alpine Club (republished in 2013) listed the following description of Scottish winter grades: The following mixed climbs are particularly notable in the evolution of mixed climbing grade milestones and mixed climbing standards. Many leading female mixed climbers are competition ice climbers from the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour, however, despite their smaller grouping, on occasions, female mixed climbers have set grade milestones that closely matched

275-551: A distance, offering cover for the remaining soldiers to gradually advance. Since the Partition of India in 1947, India and Pakistan have been in conflict over the Kashmir region . They have fought two wars and numerous additional skirmishes or border conflicts in the region. Kashmir is located in the Himalayas , the highest mountain range in the world. The first hostilities between

330-577: A full mixed climbing grade (M-grade) and a full ice climbing grade ( WI-grade ). Examples of such routes are the American mixed climbing route, Octopussy (WI6, M8), Silent Memories (WI6, M9) in Italy, or French Reality (M7-, WI6+) in Canada. Other types of mixed climbing routes have no material 'ice climbing' sections per se (and thus have no substantive WI-grade). Such routes are effectively rock routes but where

385-638: A greater ratio of attacking soldiers to defending soldiers than a war conducted on level ground. Mountains present natural hazards such as lightning , strong gusts of wind, rockfalls , avalanches , snowpacks , ice , extreme cold , and glaciers with their crevasses ; in these ways, it can be similar to cold-weather warfare . The generally uneven terrain and the slow pace of troop and material movements are additional threats to combatants. Movement, reinforcements, and medical evacuation up and down steep slopes and areas in which even pack animals cannot reach involves an enormous exertion of energy. In 218 BC ,

440-616: A manifesto titled "Spurs are for Horses, and Tools Are For Your Hands", which stated "A route climbed by sitting on your tool, hooking a tool with your knees or spurs or even using spurs is an aid climb". Competition ice climbing began to regulate the use of tools, including heel spurs, tool length, and tool leashes (which can be used for resting or to help with upward momentum). In 2012, mixed-climber Ryan Nelson wrote an article in Rock & Ice titled "Is mixed climbing still legitimate?". Scottish climber Dave MacLeod told Nelson, "Modern-mixed

495-568: A small military unit of mountaineering experts capable of competing with the bests in order to realize great mountaineering missions on mountain ranges around the world. He gave this mission to the captain Jean Claude Marmier. The selection of the first men to join the unit took place in September 1976, its number of members is fixed to ten. During the period, the group traveled the Alps to perfect

550-796: A standalone sport came to prominence in 1994 when American climber Jeff Lowe climbed the roof of Octopussy (WI6, M8) in Vail, Colorado , creating the world's first M8-graded mixed climb. In 2014, Rock & Ice credited Lowe's 1994 ascent with effectively inventing the sport of mixed climbing. Lowe's ascent led to an increase in interest in mixed climbing, and from 1994 to 2003 levels of difficulty rose sharply from M8 to M13, driven by mixed-climbing pioneers such as Stevie Haston in Europe (particularly in Val di Cogne ), and Will Gadd in North America (particularly in

605-507: Is a periantarctic island , and the conflict took place during the southern winter and so Alpine conditions prevailed almost down to sea level. The operation (codenamed Operation Paraquet ) was unusual in that it combined aspects of long-range amphibious warfare , arctic warfare and mountain warfare. It involved several ships, special forces troops and helicopters . Throughout history but especially since 1979, many mountain warfare operations have taken place throughout Afghanistan . Since

SECTION 10

#1732863194231

660-437: Is an even risker undertaking. Mixed climbing is closely related to alpine climbing , as many alpine climbing routes have large sections of iced and snow-covered rock that can neither be rock climbed (i.e. too slippery) nor climbed as a pure ice climb (i.e. not enough ice). Mixed climbing is also closely related to the sport of dry-tooling , which was developed by mixed climbers doing routes with no snow or ice, but still using

715-557: Is arduous and in many countries the exclusive preserve of elite units such as special forces or commandos , which as part of their remit should have the ability to fight in difficult terrain such as the Royal Marines . Regular units may also occasionally undertake training of this nature. Mixed climbing Mixed climbing is a climbing discipline used on routes that do not have enough ice to be pure ice climbs , but are also not dry enough to be pure rock climbs . To ascend

770-410: Is definitely approaching stagnation", and "Ditching heel spurs will no doubt give it another gasp of life, but it only puts it off a year or two. The reason is, of course, that [climbing] a full ropelength of horizontal roof on tiny hooks is relatively easy". While the evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing has tapered since 2003, leading mixed climbers such as Raphel Slawinski have highlighted

825-414: Is used as Scottish winter climbs use traditional climbing protection, placing greater strains on the climber. British mixed-climber Ian Parnell wrote in his guide to Scottish winter climbing that Scottish grades are almost two levels above M-grades, and thus a Scottish VIII, 8 is similar to an M6; but that an on-sight of a Scottish VIII, 8 using traditional climbing protection, is similar in difficulty to

880-830: The Baffin Island , the Thalay Sagar , in Alaska , on the Kamet and on the south face of the Gyachung Kang . In 1986, Jean Claude Marmier leaves the command of the Group to take the command of the High Mountain Group  [ fr ] and later of the presidency French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing . He is replaced by the captain Alain Estève who was one of the first members of

935-603: The 1809 rebellion in Tyrol , mountain warfare played a large role. Another example of mountain warfare was the Crossing of the Andes , which was carried out by the Argentinean Army of the Andes ( Spanish : Ejército de los Andes ), commanded by General José de San Martín in 1817. One of the divisions climbed mountains surpassing 5000 meters in height. The Caucasian War was

990-463: The American Alpine Club (republished in 2013) who note: "These [mixed climbing] routes require considerable dry tooling (modern ice tools used on bare rock) and are climbed in crampons; actual ice is optional but some ice is usually involved": In his 1996 book, Ice World , Jeff Lowe ranked his new M-grades to the level of physical exertion needed on a free rock climb; Lowe estimated that M8

1045-657: The Battles of Narvik , Battle of the Caucasus , Kokoda Track campaign , Battle of Attu , Operation Rentier , Operation Gauntlet , Operation Encore , and the British defence at the Battle of Hong Kong . One ambush tactic used against the Germans during the Battles of Narvik utilised hairpin bends . Defenders would position themselves above them and open fire when attackers reached a certain point below, parallel to themselves. This would force

1100-643: The Cordillera Darwin and in 29 days. Six month after returning from the Cordillera Darwin, they returned to the Kamet with 4 alpinists. The group had already opened a way there with Jean-Claude Marmier. The new way, « Spicy game », is a success and the subject of a Piolets d'Or . In 2013 The groups returns to the Shishapangma , scene of a disaster that shook the group ten years earlier. That year, bad weather and differences in motivation within

1155-779: The Mont Ross in the Kerguelen Islands , 25 yearsafter the first ascension by the French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing . In 2002, the Group made several openings in the massif of Garhwal in India (Arwa Tower, Arwa Spire, Arwa Crest) and the Minya Konka in China. In 2003, an accident causes the death of captain Choudens and lieutenant Renard on the Shishapangma . The new objective of

SECTION 20

#1732863194231

1210-723: The North Pole after 970 kilometres (600 mi) in complete autonomy and the South Pole has been reached and the Three Poles Challenge completed in 1999 after a raid of 1,350 kilometres (840 mi) without th commandant Estève who was victim of a fatal fall in Norway in 1997. In 2001, they opened a way in the Baffin island on a peak named after Alain Estève. They achieved the 2nd ascension of

1265-554: The Old Swiss Confederacy in the Alps. The Swiss fought in smaller units and took vantage points against a huge unmaneuverable army. Similar styles of attack and defence were later employed by guerrillas , partisans and irregulars, who hid in the mountains after an attack, which made it challenging for an army of regulars to fight back. In Napoleon Bonaparte 's Italian campaign, Alexander Suvorov 's Italian and Swiss expedition and

1320-444: The US military adopted a hybrid style of mountain warfare incorporating counterinsurgency (COIN) theory in which the population is paramount as the center of gravity in the fight. In counterinsurgency, seizing and holding territory are less important than avoiding civilian casualties. The primary goals of counterinsurgency are to secure the backing of the populace and thereby to legitimize

1375-453: The coalition invasion of Afghanistan in 2001, they have been primarily in the eastern provinces of Kunar and Nuristan . Kunar and eastern Nuristan are strategic terrain since the area constitutes a major infiltration route into Afghanistan, and insurgents can enter the provinces from any number of places along the border with Pakistan to gain access to a vast network of river valleys. In that part of Afghanistan ( Regional Command East ),

1430-637: The 159th battalion of alpine infantry, in Briançon introduced the practice of skiing in the army in 1902 by creating the first french ski school. Later, in 1932, the High Mountain Military School was founded in Chamonix , it was the first national school to provide mountaineering education. In the 1970s, the general Laurens, commander of the new 27th Mountain Infantry Brigade decided to create

1485-556: The Carthaginian army commander Hannibal marched troops, cavalry and African elephants across the Alps in an effort to conquer Rome by approaching it from north of the Italian Peninsula. The Roman government was complacent because the Alps were viewed as a secure natural obstacle to would-be invaders. In December 218 BC, the Carthaginian forces defeated Roman troops, in the north, with the use of elephants. Many elephants did not survive

1540-616: The Fang Amphitheater in Vail , and in the Cineplex Cave in Alberta ). In 2003, Italian climber Mauro Bole  [ de ] finding he was too short for the crux on The Game (M13) in Cineplex Cave, lengthened his tools and completed it. This led to implications that mixed-climbing was akin to aid climbing . A similar debate had been boiling over on 'heel spurs', which Gadd had stopped using (calling it "barebacking"), and writing

1595-419: The attackers to retreat, to continue under fire, or to attempt to climb the mountain another way. The tactic could be planned in advance, or employed by a retreating force. Another tactic utilised was the 'ascending platoon attack'. Attackers would scout higher enemy positions from the ground, aided by bad weather or poor visibility. A light machine gun team would open fire towards the high enemy position from

1650-572: The basic skills of a mountaineer. Nothing was, left to chance as versatile and efficient mountaineers where needed. The group already performed an expedition in Greenland in 1978 but the period of exploration outside of the Alps really started in 1981 with the ascension of the Tibetan side of the Everest , this expedition failed although they reached 8400 m. The following years, they accomplish many successes, in

1705-410: The climber's face), and of gently balancing the front points of their crampons on thin holds. The grading of mixed routes approximates the ice climbing WI-system up to grade M6, but they then diverge as mixed routes become very overhanging and eventually turn into roofs (ice is not normally overhanging). M-grades do not take into account the "danger" of the route (i.e. how good is the protection in

High Mountain Military Group - Misplaced Pages Continue

1760-562: The cold weather and disease typical of the European climate. Hannibal's army fought Roman troops in Italy for 15 years but failed to conquer Rome. Carthage was ultimately defeated by Roman general Scipio Africanus at Zama in North Africa in 202 BC. The term mountain warfare is said to have come about in the Middle Ages after the European monarchies found it difficult to fight the armies of

1815-668: The development of specialized mixed climbing techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves ), and equipment (e.g. fruit boots , heel spurs , and advanced ergo ice axes), led to dramatic increases in mixed climbing grade milestones, particularly from 1994 to 2003, and have been credited with pushing standards in the wider field of alpine climbing. Many modern mixed routes are bolted like sport climbing routes, but some routes require traditional climbing -type protection. Mixed climbing involves using ice climbing equipment (e.g. double ice axes and crampons ) on routes that are not sufficiently covered in ice to be pure ice climbs and have

1870-627: The event of a fall), but focus on the technical and physical challenge of the route, and is more akin to the French and US sport climbing grades, although per the US system, the " R/X " suffix is used for danger. Some M-graded climbs are given an alternative D-grade prefix where there is no ice on the route, and it is effectively dry-tooling (e.g. the Swiss climb Iron Man is quoted as being M14+ but also D14+). The following M-grades and descriptions are provided by

1925-459: The government, rather than to focus on militarily defeating the insurgents. Counterinsurgency doctrine has proved difficult to implement in Kunar and Nuristan. In the sparsely-populated mountain regions of eastern Afghanistan, strategists have argued for holding the high ground, a tenet of classical mountain warfare. The argument suggests that if the counterinsurgent does not deny the enemy the high ground,

1980-692: The group is to represent the seven kind of modern alpinism all around the world. As a part of this project, they went to Mali in January 2005 to open seven ways of free climbing on the Hand of Fatima and the Mount Hombori , then in Chilean Patagonia the group opened a mixed climbing way on the Hombro-Norte. In October 2011, six members of the group became the firsts to cross the 180 kilometres (110 mi) of

2035-604: The group. With his lead, the GMHM experiments paragliding , hang gliding and free fall. In 1984, the group realized its first eight-thousander with the ascension of the Lhotse . In 1992, they broke the world speed record for the ascend of the Aconcagua . In 1993, after ascending the Everest , Alain Estève decided to continue with the exploration of the North and South poles. In 1996, they reached

2090-452: The insurgents can attack at will. In Kunar and Nuristan, US forces continued to pursue a hybrid style of counterinsurgency warfare, with its focus on winning hearts and minds , and mountain warfare, with the US forces seizing and holding the high ground. The expense of training mountain troops precludes them from being on the order of battle of most armies except those that reasonably expect to fight in such terrain. Mountain warfare training

2145-518: The mountains, where ballistic projectiles have different characteristics than at sea level. Most of the Falklands War took place on hills in semi-Arctic conditions on the Falkland Islands . However, during the opening stage of the war, there was military action on the bleak mountainous island of South Georgia , where a British expedition sought to eject occupying Argentine forces. South Georgia

2200-584: The nations that were involved in the war had mountain divisions that had not been tested. The Austro-Hungarian defence repelled Italian attacks by taking advantage of the terrain in the Julian Alps and the Dolomites , where frostbite and avalanches proved deadlier than bullets. During the summer of 1918, the Battle of San Matteo took place on the Italian front and was fought at the highest elevation of any during

2255-460: The partially bolted Octopussy (WI6, M8 R) in 1994. Mixed climbing also led to the sport of dry-tooling , which is mixed climbing on routes that are completely free of all ice or snow. The equipment used — the lengths of ice tools and the use of heel spurs and ice axe leashes — has become more regulated to avoid concerns of being more like aid climbing than free climbing . Mixed climbing routes are graded for difficulty on an M-grade system, and

High Mountain Military Group - Misplaced Pages Continue

2310-584: The peaks, ridges and passes of Saltoro with India occupying most of the ridge line whilst Pakistan army to the west along the bases. During the Kargil War (1999), Indian forces sought to flush out opponents who had captured high mountain posts. That proxy war was the only modern war that was fought exclusively in the mountains. After the Kargil War, the Indian Army implemented specialist training on artillery use in

2365-652: The positive effect of mixed climbing on overall standards in alpine climbing. Other alpine climbers such as Steve House have cautioned that the reliance on fully bolted sport climbing routes for the highest M-grades has not yet led to a discernable impact on general standards in alpine climbing. Mixed climbing started by using existing ice climbing equipment for upward momentum (e.g. double ice axes and crampons), and for protection (e.g. ice screws ), and also existing traditional rock climbing equipment (e.g. nuts , hexcentrics and cams ) or sport climbing equipment (e.g. bolts and quickdraws ) for additional protection. As

2420-508: The rock is covered in a thin layer of ice and/or snow that makes normal rock climbing techniques impossible. Examples of such routes include many Scottish winter climbs, such as Wailing Wall (Scottish mixed climbing grade XI, 9) or Banana Wall (Scottish mixed climbing grade XII, 12), or North West Passage (M11) in Montana. While alpine climbers and Scottish winter climbers have used mixed climbing techniques for decades, mixed climbing as

2475-410: The route (e.g. technical challenge, length, and the level of boldness, physicality, and stamina required). A second Arabic number clarifies the technical difficulty of the hardest move on the route. A climb graded VI, 6 means the technical difficulty of the hardest move is standard for the overall grade, whereas a climb graded VI, 8 denotes the hardest move is above the overall grade. This dual-grade

2530-439: The route by inserting them into small cracks and edges on the iced-up rock. They use the equipment of a traditional climbing rock climber for climbing protection , as there will be limited possibilities to use ice screws to protect the route. It has also become common to find single-pitch mixed climbs that are fully bolted in the manner of sport climbing routes. Mixed climbing can also be done as free solo climbing , which

2585-567: The route, the mixed climber uses ice climbing equipment (e.g. double ice tools and crampons ), but to protect the route, they use both rock-climbing equipment and ice climbing equipment. Mixed climbing varies from routes with sections of thick layers of ice and sections of bare rock, to routes that are mostly bare rock but which are "iced-up" in a thin layer of ice and/or snow. While alpinists have used mixed climbing techniques for decades (most north-facing alpine routes are iced or snow-covered), it came to prominence with Jeff Lowe 's ascent of

2640-573: The sport developed, specialized equipment was created including: As well as using standard techniques of ice climbing (e.g. front pointing ) and of rock climbing (e.g. crack climbing , but with ice axes), mixed climbers have developed a range of techniques that are largely unique to their sport (and the derived sport of dry-tooling). These include: In addition, mixed climbers try to keep their elbows near their sides (i.e. to avoid draining energy in torque and stein pulls), and are very careful in extracting wedged blades (i.e. which can ricochet back into

2695-547: The team force the group to retreat. The next spring they return to this mountain and ascend successfully the south face of the Kamet. In 2015, the group decided to ascend the Annapurna , but after a long and intense training, bad weather blocks them from ascending. Mountain warfare Mountain warfare or alpine warfare is warfare in mountains or similarly rough terrain. The term encompasses military operations affected by

2750-476: The terrain, hazards, and factors of combat and movement through rough terrain, as well as the strategies and tactics used by military forces in these situations and environments. Mountain ranges are of strategic importance since they often act as a natural border and may also be the origin of a water source such as the Golan Heights . Attacking a prepared enemy position in mountain terrain generally requires

2805-581: The tools and techniques of mixed climbing; mixed climbs that have no ice are sometimes given a "D" prefix instead of an "M" prefix in their grade. There has been debate as to whether mixed climbing is more akin to aid climbing , rather than the more desirable style of free climbing , due to its use of mechanical tools on natural rock. This has led to increased oversight on allowable tools (e.g. use of heel spurs, length of axes, and use of leashes for resting or to help with upward momentum, etc.); and most ice climbing competitions no longer allow leashes and regulate

SECTION 50

#1732863194231

2860-848: The two nations, during the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947 , showed that both were ill-equipped to fight in biting cold, let alone at the highest altitudes in the world. During the Sino-Indian War of 1962, hostilities broke out between India and China in the same area. The subsequent Indo-Pakistani War of 1965 between India and Pakistan was mainly fought in Kashmir's valleys, rather than the mountains themselves, but several mountain battles took place. Siachen Conflict (along Saltoro Mustgah) has been witness to battles, operations and skirmishes where many posts higher than 5000m have been captured or fought over. The fighting here has been concentrated on

2915-414: The use of heel spurs (e.g. if allowed at all, they cannot be used for resting). Mixed climbing routes can cover a broad range of types. Some mixed climbing routes are combinations of an ice climbing route (i.e. a large frozen icicle, frozen alpine couloirs, or frozen water cascade) and a dry-tooling route (i.e. need to pass a rock overhang or rock roof to get to the frozen ice part); these routes have both

2970-404: The war. In December 1914, another offensive was launched by the Ottoman supreme commander Enver Pasha with 95,000–190,000 troops against the Russians in the Caucasus . Insisting on a frontal attack against Russian positions in the mountains in the heart of winter, the result was devastating, and Enver lost 86% of his forces. Examples of mountain warfare used during World War II include

3025-403: Was equivalent to 5.12 ( American Yosemite Decimal System ). Other authors have tried to align M-grades with rock climbing grades, and now equate M8 to 5.10/5.11, however, there is some variation and no consensus that such comparisons are valid. Mixed climbing in Scotland is known as Scottish winter climbing and uses a dual-grading system with a Roman numeral to denote the overall difficulty of

#230769