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Hex (climbing)

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Plyometrics , also known as jump training or plyos , are exercises in which muscles exert maximum force in short intervals of time, with the goal of increasing power (speed-strength). This training focuses on learning to move from a muscle extension to a contraction in a rapid or "explosive" manner, such as in specialized repeated jumping. Plyometrics are primarily used by athletes , especially martial artists , sprinters and high jumpers , to improve performance, and are used in the fitness field to a much lesser degree.

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81-418: A hex is an item of rock-climbing equipment used to protect climbers from falls. They are intended to be wedged into a crack or other opening in the rock, and do not require a hammer to place. They were developed as an alternative to pitons , which are hammered into cracks, damaging the rock. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of webbing, cord or

162-415: A "bent gate" on the lower carabiner to make clipping-into the quickdraw even easier. Several devices are used for controlling the rope (e.g. belay devices and self-locking devices), moving up the rope (e.g. ascender devices), or moving down the rope (e.g. rappel/abseil or descender devices). These actions were historically performed by climbers with no mechanical devices (e.g. the body belay for belaying,

243-406: A cable which is part of the hex. Hexes are a type of nut , a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing , a swaged cable, or a cord. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of sizes varying from about 10–100 millimetres (0.4–4 in) wide. Climbers select a range of sizes to use on a specific climb based on the characteristics of the cracks in

324-492: A different shape. Active protection is achieved by orienting the webbing so that a pull causes a camming action against the rock similar to Tricams , allowing for placement in parallel cracks. They are often preferred by alpine mountaineers over spring-loaded camming devices because of their lack of moving parts and overall lower weight for the same size crack. The original hexes were invented by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost , and called Hexentrics . The "polycentric" hexentric

405-516: A fixed or static rope that is hanging from a fixed anchor. They perform the same basic function as the dülfersitz abseil but with more control and less effort. The classic passive descender, and still widely used, is the figure-eight , although it is offered in more complex variations with "ears" and "wings" to prevent the rope from locking up. Many passive belay devices can be used as descenders, such as tubers/tubulars. Some modern descenders come with self-locking device (SLD) features that will grip

486-568: A harness to a rope (or other anchor points, such as a metal cable). The difference is that lanyards are much stronger than quickdraws and are capable of withstanding fall factors of 2 as found on via ferrata or on multi-pitch climbing routes. They are often made from materials that can absorb dynamic energy and often come with additional optional fall energy absorption devices, and lanyards that have had heavy falls often have to be discarded. Lanyards are also constructed to be sufficiently flexible to resist being twisted. A sub-class of lanyards

567-450: A height and experience a "shock" upon landing. This in turn would bring about a forced eccentric contraction which was then immediately switched to a concentric contraction as the athlete jumped upward. The landing and takeoff were executed in an extremely short period of time, in the range of 0.1–0.2 second. Explosive plyometrics describes the approach originally created by Verkhoshansky. He experimented with many different exercises, but

648-620: A longer version of a quickdraw or a makeshift lanyard. Slings can be made into more complex pieces of equipment such as the daisy chain , which is used in aid climbing, and the Personal Anchor System , which is used in securing a climber to a fixed anchor point. While lengths of webbing can be tied via a knot, such as a water knot , to create custom-length loops instead of the pre-sewn fixed-length slings, their load-bearing capacity can be materially reduced making them less safe. Climbers instead use cord (or "accessory cord"), which

729-428: A participant be able to perform 50 repetitions of the squat exercise at 60% of his or her body weight before doing plyometrics. Core (abdomen) strength is also important. Flexibility is required both for injury prevention and to enhance the effect of the stretch shortening cycle . Some advanced training methods combine plyometrics and intensive stretching in order to both protect the joint and make it more receptive to

810-435: A short, pre-sewn loop of webbing. They are used to reduce the friction and drag between the rope and the fixed point that can occur when the rope is just clipped into a carabiner clipped into the fixed point. In competition climbing , the quickdraws are already hanging from the pre-fixed bolts, which is called pinkpointing in sport climbing . The quickdraws used in advanced sport and in competition climbing routes often have

891-416: A significant variation in the results. If such an imbalance is found, unilateral plyometrics may be used to alleviate it. As the legs are used singly, and perform the same amount of work, the body and legs may be strengthened more evenly than bilateral plyometrics, which may involve one leg doing an excessively large amount of the work. Some forms of unilateral plyometrics involve a cyclic alternation between

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972-427: A vertical pathway to make contact with the floor. The height used by most athletes is usually quite low in the early stages of training. The key is how high the athlete jumps in relation to the height of the takeoff platform. Technique and jump height are most important at this time. While the body is dropping, the athlete consciously prepares the muscles for the impact by tensing the muscles. The flooring upon which

1053-541: A very good term, but it was the best he could come up with. The spelling that would match the Greek origin is pliometrics . Several imaginary Greek words that would explain the y have been cited. Fred Wilt , a former US Olympic long-distance runner , is credited with coining the term plyometrics after watching the Russians execute jumps in their warm-ups prior to their event in track and field . He could not understand why

1134-480: A wide range of exercises to choose from. Another good reason with so many exercises being available are that you can find exercises that don't require the use of any equipment. It also increases muscular strength and endurance, also increases metabolic rate which increases weight loss and heart rate. Plyometric exercises are sometimes performed with an additional load, or weight added. In such cases, they are referred to as loaded plyometrics or weighted jumps. The weight

1215-711: Is a length of thinner approximately 4–8 mm static kernmantle rope , tied via a double fisherman's knot into closed loops of any size. Cord loops (also known as " cordelettes ") serve a wide variety of functions in rock climbing. Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5–6  mm cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using thicker approximately 7–8  mm cord. Several modern pieces of rope connecting equipment help climbers to securely attach items to

1296-421: Is also very important when executing plyometric exercises. In essence, the athlete goes into a slight squat (crouch) upon landing in which the hip, knee, and ankle joints flex. The takeoff or jump upward is executed in a sequence initiated by hip-joint extension followed by knee-joint extension which begins during the hip-joint extension. As the knee-joint extension is taking place, ankle-joint extension begins and

1377-504: Is broadly classed as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (known as the UIAA) was an important early body—and the only body pre-1995—in setting standards for climbing equipment. The UIAA Safety Commission continues to play a central worldwide role in this area. The European Committee for Standardization (CEN) is also an important major regulatory body for PPE, and which works closely with

1458-416: Is clipped into any given anchor or protection point), which have a reduced thickness of approximately 8–9  mm to limit the weight of the extra rope. Twin roping uses two thinner ropes, typically 7–8  mm in thickness, which are both clipped into each protection point. Twin roping is thus not used for reducing rope drag, but to have a backup rope on long climbs. Modern webbing (or "tape")

1539-719: Is greater than the muscles can withstand. In addition, the athlete will not be able to execute a quick return (fast transition between muscular contractions), which is the key to successful execution of explosive plyometrics. Because of the forces involved and the quickness of execution, the central nervous system is strongly involved. It is important that the athlete not overdo using the shock plyometric method. Doing so will lead to great fatigue, and, according to Verkhoshansky, sleep disturbances. Athletes have great difficulty sleeping well if they execute too many depth jumps. This indicates that athletes must be well-prepared physically before doing this type of training. Technique of jumping

1620-432: Is held or worn. The greatest intensity can be achieved whereby the height or the distance travelled is maximised. A hop test involves a comparison between the hopping height or distance achievable by the left and right legs, considered separately. It is used to assess the relative strength levels of each leg and whether there is a muscle imbalance i.e. a strength discrepancy between the left and right sides which results in

1701-403: Is held or worn. It may be in the form of a barbell , trap bar , dumbbells , or weighted vest . For instance, a vertical jump whilst holding a trap bar or jumping split squats whilst holding dumbbells. In addition, a regular weight lifting exercise is sometimes given a plyometric component, such as is found in a loaded jump squat. Jumping onto plyo boxes or over hurdles whilst holding weights

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1782-470: Is long-distance running in which the runners execute repeat actions of 20 to 30 consecutive jumps and other cyclic-type activities such as leaping for multiple repetitions. Such plyometric jumps are also used as a warm-up for doing explosive plyometric jumps and for initial preparation of the muscles prior to undertaking exercises such as depth jumps. In essence, they are effective in the early stages of learning how to do plyometric exercises and for preparing

1863-456: Is made of strong tubular nylon or the even stronger spectra/dyneema material. Climbers use webbing that has been sewn using a certified standard of reinforced stitching into various lengths of closed loops called " slings " (or "runners"). They can be used in a wide range of situations, including wrapping around sections of rock for abseiling, creating belay anchors, or as passive protection, or tied to other equipment—often via carabiners—to create

1944-461: Is not recommended for safety reasons. The advantage of loaded plyometric exercises is that they increase the overall force with which the exercise is performed. This can enhance the positive effect of the exercise and further increase the practitioner's ability to apply explosive power. Unilateral plyometrics are jumping exercises which involve only one foot being in contact with the ground at some stage. This can include jumping off of, and landing on,

2025-414: Is received to when they are returned. The greater the time between receiving the forces and giving them back, the less is the return and the less the height that can be achieved in the jump. Most of the lengthening and shortening occurs in the respective muscle tendons which have greater elasticity. Another way of saying this is that the faster the switching from the eccentric to the concentric contraction,

2106-406: Is still being practiced for improvement of athletic performance by what appears to be a relatively limited number of athletes. These athletes still do depth jumps, the key exercise in the shock method, according to the guidelines established by Verkhoshansky. Most athletes execute simple and complex jumps and call them plyometrics rather than jump training as it was called in the past. This includes

2187-400: Is sufficiently great, it is able to stop the downward movement very quickly. This phase is sometimes called the phase of amortization in which the athlete absorbs some of the force and stops downward movement by the strong eccentric contraction of the muscles. The strong eccentric contraction prepares the muscles to switch to the concentric contraction in an explosive manner for takeoff. When

2268-405: Is that the athlete is jumping as high as possible on every jump. If the athlete gradually improves his jump height, the same platform height is continued until increases in jump height are no longer observed. At this time, takeoff height is increased by a few inches. If the athlete continually fails to jump very high, the height of the drop-down is lowered somewhat. Most important here is how high

2349-448: Is the easiest to clip into and out of for example when leading a bolted sport climbing route but with the risk that the gate may unintentionally open. Climbing harnesses are used for connecting the rope to the climber via a "belay loop" on the harness. Harnesses are made of strong materials to specific strength guidelines that can withstand the load of a major fall. There are many types of harness designs and materials used depending on

2430-559: Is the only action that occurs as the takeoff (breaking contact with the ground) takes place. All three actions contribute force to the upward jump, but the knee-joint extension is the major contributor. The most common type of plyometrics used in the United States is simple and relatively easy jump exercises executed with little regard to execution time. These jumps are effective for athletes who execute skills in their sport that do not require explosive type muscular contractions. An example

2511-693: Is the personal anchor system (PAS), which is a section of rope or interconnected chains of slings, which are used to tie the harness to an anchor point such as a belay station. Traditionally, climbers would tie their harness to anchors using part of the climbing rope; however, the PAS has become popular as a way to avoid reducing the effective length of the climbing rope, and to use a more straightforward connection. Quickdraws are used by climbers to connect ropes to fixed points such as bolted anchors in sport climbing, or protection devices in traditional climbing. The quickdraw consists of two non-locking carabiners connected by

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2592-410: Is then given back in a return upward movement. The faster the change in the muscular contractions, the greater the power created and the resulting height attained. More specifically, the muscles and tendons undergo a stretch (eccentric contraction) while landing which is needed to absorb some of the force generated but most importantly, to withstand the force that is produced by the shock that occurs on

2673-470: The UIAA standards) for strength, durability, and reliability, and must be certified and tested against such standards with individual pieces carrying such certification marks. The rock-climbing equipment needed varies materially depending on the type of rock climbing being undertaken. Starting from the least equipment-intensive type of climbing, the general equipment needs are as follows: Rock-climbing equipment

2754-405: The dülfersitz abseil for descending, and the prusik knot for ascending), and these mechanical devices help with both control and safety in all conditions (e.g. wet or icy ropes). Ascenders (also called "jumars" or " crolls " after popular brands) are mechanical devices to enable a climber to move up a fixed rope , which is a static rope that is hanging from a fixed anchor. Ascenders perform

2835-547: The Petzl GriGri or the Wild Country Revo ). Some passive belay devices may also be used as descenders for abseiling . Indoor climbing walls can provide on-site fixed mechanical auto belay devices that enable the climber to top rope a route alone; more recent lead auto belay models allow the climber to also lead climb the route alone. Descenders (or abseil devices) enable a climber to abseil (or rappel) down

2916-884: The Petzl Traxion). The most complex use is for rope solo climbing , for which devices such as Wren's Silent Partner, the Petzel GriGri, and the Wild Country Revo have been used (rope solo climbing requires the widest range of rope devices including ascenders and descenders), or the more straightforward top rope solo climbing , for which the Petzl Micro Traxion and Camp Lift have been used. As discussed in types of climbing , rock climbing protection devices are mainly used in traditional climbing and in sport climbing, both of which can be done in single and multi-pitch formats. In addition, clean aid climbing also uses many of

2997-670: The Russians were doing all of these jumps while the Americans were doing multiple static stretches, but he firmly believed it was one of the reasons why they were so successful in many events. From its beginnings in the early 1980s, the term plyometrics gained greater popularity and is now well established. When Fred Wilt learned of the work being done by Michael Yessis in the field of Russian training methods, they quickly teamed up to help disseminate information on plyometrics. In collaboration with Yessis who visited and worked with Verkhoshansky in

3078-513: The Soviet Union in the early 1980s, plyometrics was gradually disseminated in the US. Yessis brought this information on plyometrics back to the US and in the following years was able to create even more ways of using this method to train and improve explosive power. Plyometrics (the shock method) was created by Yuri Verkhoshansky in the late 1960s, early 1970s. Since then, the shock method of plyometrics

3159-771: The UIAA Safety Commission through its CEN Working Group for Mountaineering Equipment. North America has fewer specific regulations as rock-climbing equipment as it is not classed as military or professional PPE and thus does not fall under the American Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulations; in effect, the UIAA and CEN have become the most important bodies for setting standards and regulating rock-climbing equipment worldwide, and most major manufacturers, and distributors, produce equipment certified and stamped with UIAA and CE marking . After

3240-642: The United Kingdom left the European Union, it adopted the UKCA certification in place of the CEN. Modern climbing ropes are 50–80 metres (160–260 ft) in length—the longer versions are for multi-pitch climbing—and have a kernmantle construction consisting of a core kern of twisted nylon fibers and an outer sheath mantle of woven colored coarse nylon fibers. They are either dynamic ropes , which can stretch to absorb

3321-614: The application of proper technique and appropriate safety precautions can make plyometrics safe and effective for many people. Many professional and Olympic athletes use plyometrics training to improve muscular strength and jumping abilities which therefore increases their power. There are varying levels of intensity to plyometrics. Another benefit of plyometrics is that you can vary your level of intensity which means anyone looking to improve strength and jumping training can be involved regardless of fitness. With there being so many exercises this means you are less likely to get burned out and have

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3402-403: The athlete drops down on should be somewhat resilient, mainly for prevention of injury. Upon making contact with the floor, the athlete then goes into slight leg flex to absorb some of the force for safety. However, the main role played by the muscles and tendons is to withstand the force that is experienced in the landing. This force is withstood in eccentric contraction. When muscle contraction

3483-409: The athlete drops down to the floor, the body experiences an impact upon landing. The higher the height of the step-off platform, the greater the impact force upon landing. This creates a shock to the body which the body responds to by undergoing a strong involuntary muscular contraction to prevent the body from collapsing on the ground. This in turn produces great tension in the muscles and tendons which

3564-432: The athlete jumps after the drop-down. The maximum platform height used by a high level athlete is no more than 40 inches (100 cm). Rather than developing greater explosive power this height leads to more eccentric strength development. Going higher than 30 inches (76 cm) is usually counterproductive and may lead to injury. This occurs when the intensity of the forced involuntary eccentric contraction upon landing

3645-422: The case of a fall), or passive (i.e., they maintain a static position throughout). Fixed protection devices are permanent on-site anchors to which a lead climber can clip their rope – often via a quickdraw – when they are sport climbing ; they also can be used to create anchor points for belaying and abseiling. The main types are: Aid climbing uses several of the above devices but in a way that gives "aid" to

3726-422: The climber in ascending (e.g. pulling up on pitons and hooks). There are also a number of other pieces of equipment that are more exclusively associated with aid climbing. Rock climbers use several pieces of specialized clothing equipment including: Rock climbers may also use a range of other specialized equipment including: Various items of equipment are employed during climbing-specific training to strengthen

3807-433: The climber's fingers, tendons, and muscles: Plyometric Plyometrics include explosive exercises to activate the quick response and elastic properties of the major muscles. It was initially adopted by Soviet Olympians in the 1950s, and then by sportspeople worldwide. Sports using plyometrics include basketball, tennis, badminton, squash and volleyball as well as the various codes of football. The term "plyometrics"

3888-701: The climbing rope, such as themselves via a modern climbing harness, or their various protection devices via modern carabiners and quickdraws. Before the invention of these pieces of rope-connecting equipment, climbers used alternative techniques such as looping the rope around the body instead of a harness (e.g. the body belay ) and looping the rope around various rocks as a form of protection. In addition to these early techniques, climbers also used various climbing knots to tie ropes and anchor points together, which are now all replaced by rope-connecting equipment such as carabiners. Carabiners are closed metal clips with spring-loaded gates that are used as connectors between

3969-456: The depth jump appeared to be the best for duplicating the forces in the landing and takeoff. The second version of plyometrics, seen to a greater extent in the United States , involves any form of jump regardless of execution time. The term plyometric is a combination of Greek words πλείων ( pleíōn ), which means "more", and μέτρον ( métron ) "measure". Fred Wilt admits that it is not

4050-408: The depth jump which is illustrative of the shock method. Since its inception in the former Soviet Union as the shock method, there have been other forms of the plyometric exercises created by Yessis that do not involve jump exercises. For details and illustrations of these exercises see "Explosive Running" and "Explosive Plyometrics". These exercises involve the stretch-shorten concept that underlies

4131-401: The depth jump which was executed in ways different from what was recommended by Verkhoshansky. This form of jump training is very popular but plyometrics is a buzzword for all types of jumps, regardless of how long it takes to execute the jump. Its use is so pervasive that it is even possible to find push-ups described as being plyometric. Due to the wide use and appeal of the term plyometrics,

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4212-448: The eccentric contraction, the muscles are involuntarily lengthened, while in the concentric contraction, the muscles are shortened after being tensed. Most of the stretching and shortening takes place in the tendons that attach to the muscles involved rather than in the muscles. To execute the depth jump, the athlete stands on a raised platform, usually not greater than 20–30 inches (51–76 cm) high, and then steps out and drops down in

4293-405: The energy of a falling climber, or are the less expensive but more hard-wearing static ropes , which are only for use in constant-load situations such as descending (e.g. abseiling) and ascending (e.g. jumaring ). Some climbers will use a single full-thickness climbing rope of approximately 9–11  mm , and some will use double ropes , or "half-ropes", to reduce rope drag (e.g. one rope

4374-400: The greater will be the force produced and the greater the return movement. The speed of the switching is extremely fast, 0.20 seconds or less. For example, high-level sprinters execute the switch from the eccentric contraction that occurs when the foot hits the ground to the concentric contraction when the foot breaks contact with the ground in less than 0.10 seconds. In world-class sprinters,

4455-770: The harness (replaced tying the rope around the waist), the carabiner (replaced many knots ), the descender/abseil device (replaced the dülfersitz ), the ascender (replaced the prusik knot ), the belay device (replaced the body belay ), and nuts / hexes (replaced chockstones ). Modern equipment includes dynamic ropes , plyometric training tools, advanced spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) for protection, and advanced rope control devices such as self-locking devices (SLDs), progress capture devices (PCDs), and assisted braking devices (ABDs). Modern equipment uses advanced materials that are increasingly more durable, stronger, and lighter (e.g. spectra/dyneema and aluminum alloys ). The equipment must meet specific standards (e.g.

4536-533: The joints extend on the upward return. The sequence and overlapping in the sequence is basically the same, beginning with the hip extension, followed by knee extension, and ending with the ankle-plantar flexing. The major differences in execution are the depth of the landing and the time of executing the switch from the eccentric to the concentric contraction. Studies have been conducted testing ten various plyometric exercises on overall performance during jumping examined by EMG, power, and ground reaction force (GRF). Of

4617-408: The landing. The greater the shock (forces experienced on landing), the stronger the eccentric contraction will be, which in turn produces even greater tension. This tension, which is potential force, is then given back in the return movement when the muscular contractions switch to the concentric or shortening regime. However, for maximum return of energy, minimum time must elapse from when the force

4698-446: The large force generated during training and performance, and should only be performed by well conditioned individuals under supervision. Good levels of physical strength , flexibility , and proprioception should be achieved before beginning plyometric training. The specified minimum strength requirement varies depending on where the information is sourced and the intensity of the plyometrics being performed. Chu (1998) recommends that

4779-456: The muscles for explosive or quick jumps. These jumps are similar to those done by youngsters in the playground or in neighborhood games and as such, do not require additional preparation. Athletes, regardless of their level of expertise, can undertake such jumps in the initial stages of training. When athletes who have been doing plyometrics without regard to time of execution first attempt to execute explosive plyometrics, they often fail because

4860-612: The original passive braking devices like "sticht plates" and the later "tubers/tubulars" (e.g. the original Black Diamond ATC, or the Petzl Reverso ). The range of modern belay devices also includes auto-block devices (e.g. the GiGi ) allowing the belay device to be attached to a separate anchor point (e.g. and not to the belayer, which is useful for bringing up the second-climber on multi-pitch routes), and active assisted-braking devices (ABDs) that will self-lock with sudden rope movements (e.g.

4941-622: The plyometric benefits. Proprioception is an important component of balance, coordination and agility, which is also required for safe performance of plyometric exercises. Further safety considerations include: Plyometrics are not inherently dangerous, but the highly focused and intense movements used in repetition increase the potential level of stress on joints and musculo-tendonous units. Therefore, safety precautions are strong prerequisites to this particular method of exercise. Low-intensity variations of plyometrics are frequently utilized in various stages of injury rehabilitation, indicating that

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5022-510: The related big wall climbing , adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes . Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to give mechanical assistance to the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders ). Advances in equipment are a key part of the rock climbing history , starting with the climbing rope . Modern devices enable climbers to perform tasks previously done manually, with greater control – in all conditions – and with less effort. Examples of replacements include

5103-431: The rock encountered on that particular climb. Sides may be straight or curved although the functioning principles remain the same no matter which shape is selected; the lack of sharp corners on curved models may make them easier to remove from the rock. Hexes may be placed either as passive or active protection. When placed passively they work like chock stones in flared cracks, like other climbing nuts, just larger and with

5184-475: The rope and various devices. Modern carabiners are made from a lightweight but strong aluminum alloy that can withstand the load of a fall. Carabiners come in various shapes, with the asymmetric/offset D-shape being the most common, and gate styles (e.g. a straight gate or a bent gate). A particular variation is whether the gate is locking, which gives extra security when belaying but makes the carabiner heavier and slightly tricker to clip into, or non-locking, which

5265-487: The rope in the event of an uncontrolled fall (e.g. the Petzl I'D S  [ de ] ). Heavy-duty descenders such as abseil racks are used for greater control and friction when carrying heavy loads and/or in very wet or icy conditions (e.g. big wall climbing and caving). The modern technique is to use a descender with a Personal Anchor System . Self-locking devices (SLDs), also called progress capture devices (PCDs), are

5346-449: The rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent the ascender device from accidentally falling off the rope, a locking carabiner is also used. Belay devices are mechanical friction-brake devices used to control the climbing rope(s) when belaying a climber. Their main purpose is to allow the rope to be locked off or fully braked with minimal effort when arresting a climber's fall. There are many kinds of belay devices, such as

5427-418: The same basic function as friction or prusik knots made from cord but far less effort and concentration are needed to use them (e.g. tired climbers at high-altitude), they can handle much heavier loads (e.g. climbers with ruck-sacks), and they are more reliable in all conditions (e.g. on wet and icy ropes). The ascender uses an internal cam that allows the device to slide freely in one direction but tightly grip

5508-422: The same foot i.e. hopping , jumping from one foot and then landing on the other, jumping from one foot and landing on two, or jumping off two and landing on one. It typically makes more intense demands on the legs than bilateral plyometric training and can be used to further enhance explosive power. The intensity of the exercises can be manipulated through the adjusting of box and hurdle height, and any weight which

5589-591: The same plyometric protocol in combination with weight training , one using high loads and the other utilizing small loads, and similar decreases in power were found. This shows that the plyometric exercises themselves had a greater effect in the decrease in power output rather than the type of weight training. Plyometrics have been shown to have benefits for reducing lower extremity injuries in team sports while combined with other neuromuscular training (i.e. strength training, balance training, and stretching). Plyometric exercises involve an increased risk of injury due to

5670-462: The shock method, Verkhoshansky is credited with developing the stretch-shortening concept of muscle contractions and the development of specialized (dynamic correspondence) strength exercises. Plyometrics, or more specifically the shock method, is considered a form of specialized strength development. Before undertaking plyometric training, it is necessary to distinguish jumps that are commonly called plyometric and true plyometric jumps as exemplified in

5751-450: The shock method. In the depth jump, the athlete experiences a shock on landing in which the hip, knee, and ankle extensor muscles undergo a powerful eccentric contraction. For the muscles to respond explosively, the eccentric contraction is then quickly switched to the isometric (when the downward movement stops) and then the concentric contraction, in a minimum amount of time. This allows the athlete to jump upward as high as possible. In

5832-414: The specific type of climbing that is undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes , climbing chalk and optional crash pads . Sport climbing adds ropes , harnesses , belay devices , and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts . Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices . Multi-pitch climbing , and

5913-522: The ten exercises, the single-leg cone hops, box jumps, tuck jumps, and two-legged vertical jumps produced the highest EMG values, alluding to greater motor recruitment. Power was examined in dumbbell jumps, depth jumps, countermovement jumps, squat jumps, and tuck jumps which all produced the higher power scale readings. In terms of athletic performance and training, the plyometric movements that utilize total body vibration produced an overall increase in performance output. A recent study examined two groups using

5994-403: The terms given to the broader class of rope devices that allow the climbing rope to move more freely in one direction but will lock quickly if the rope tries to move in the opposite direction. Their basic action means that several can also be used as emergency ascenders or assisted-belaying devices (ABDs), but they come in a broad range for a variety of uses (e.g. as a hauling or rescue pulley, like

6075-417: The time is approximately 0.08 seconds. The exact platform height used by most athletes in the depth jump should be less than 30 inches (76 cm) in the early stages of training. Most athletes start at approximately 12 inches (30 cm) after doing some jump training. They then gradually work up to 20 inches (51 cm) and then to 30 inches depending upon how well the jumps are executed. The main criterion

6156-465: The time of execution is too long. This occurs quite often in the depth jump. The athlete usually sinks (drops) too low which takes too long to make the transition from the eccentric to the concentric contraction. As a result, the exercise becomes a jump-strength exercise and not a true plyometric one. Jump technique remains the same regardless of whether it is a true plyometric exercise or a jump exercise. The hips, knees, and ankles flex when landing and

6237-432: The traditional climbing protection devices. Temporary protection devices (also known as pro , gear or the rack ), provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock to which a lead climber can clip their rope (via a quickdraw) when traditional climbing ; they also can be used for anchor points for belaying and abseiling. The devices are categorized as being active (i.e. they dynamically move or adjust in

6318-547: The true meaning of plyometrics as developed by Verkhoshansky has for the most part been forgotten. Verkhoshansky was well known and respected worldwide in both the scientific and in the coaching arenas. He was relatively unknown in the United States except for some of his articles that were translated and published in the Soviet Sports Review , later called the Fitness and Sports Review International . In addition to creating

6399-524: The type of climbing undertaken. Examples include minimal "sit" harnesses for sport climbing as they require little in the way of gear-carrying loops, lightweight and detachable leg-loop harnesses for alpine climbing that fit around heaving winter clothing, padded harnesses for big wall climbing that give comfort for hanging belays and abseils, and chest/full-body harnesses for children or carrying heavy loads. Lanyards (or "teather", or "via ferrata set") are much longer versions of quickdraws that attach from

6480-421: Was coined by Fred Wilt after watching Soviet athletes prepare for their events in track and field. He began a collaboration with trainer Michael Yessis to promote plyometrics. Since its introduction in the early 1980s, two forms of plyometrics have evolved. In the original version, created by Russian scientist Yuri Verkhoshansky, it was defined as the shock method. In this, the athlete would drop down from

6561-426: Was designed by Swedish–Norwegian climber Tomas Carlstrom and given to Chouinard Equipment in 1973. They applied for a U.S. patent in 1974 and it was granted on April 6, 1976. Hexes were produced by Chouinard Equipment, Ltd until 1989, when it was sold as a design to Black Diamond Equipment . They are produced and sold in much the same design today. Rock-climbing equipment Rock-climbing equipment varies with

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