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96-515: A dirndl ( German: [ˈdɪʁndl̩] ) is a feminine dress which originated in German-speaking areas of the Alps . It is traditionally worn by women and girls in some Alpine regions of Austria, Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein and Switzerland. A dirndl consists of a close-fitting bodice with a low neckline, a blouse worn under the bodice, a wide high-waisted skirt and an apron. The dirndl

192-602: A goldhaube . This headgear developed in the 17th century from a veil or headscarf and was worn by middle class urban women; later the custom spread to the countryside. The goldhaube is characterized by interwoven silk and golden threads, embroidered with lamé, gold and sequins. There are many regional varieties, including the Riegelhaube in Munich, the Linzer Goldhaube in Linz and

288-626: A frock or a gown ) is a one-piece outer garment that is worn on the torso and hangs down over the legs and is primarily worn by women or girls. Dresses often consist of a bodice attached to a skirt . Dress shapes and silhouettes, textiles , and colors vary. Dresses can have sleeves of any length or can be sleeveless, and dresses can have any neckline . Similarly, dresses can have skirts of any length or hemline . These variances may be based on considerations such as fashion trends, modesty , weather, and personal taste. Dresses are generally suitable for both formal wear and casual wear in

384-454: A sumptuary tax to prevent expenditure on French luxury fashions, but was persuaded to establish a home-grown fashion industry on the French model. Although the rich usually led fashion, the middle classes and even peasants copied the trends among the wealthier classes. By 1800, dress styles were similar among many Western Europeans; local variation became first a sign of provincial culture and later

480-566: A "dirndl", even if it has a documented history of centuries as a folk costume. For example, the traditional blue polka-dotted dress of the Wachau region of Austria can be referred to either as "Wachauer Tracht" or as the "Wachauer (everyday) dirndl" In English, the name "dirndl" is used interchangeably for traditional and modern designs. The dirndl consists of a bodice , skirt , blouse , and apron . The bodice (in German: Mieder or Leiberl )

576-460: A "wrapper," and made of expensive fabric and laces. By 1910, the Edwardian look was replaced with a straighter silhouette. French designer, Paul Poiret , had a huge impact on the look of the time. Designs developed by Poiret were available in both boutiques and also in department stores . Popular dresses of the time were one-piece and included lingerie dresses which could be layered. At around

672-477: A Spanish farthingale was replaced by the wider, more conical wheel farthingale. Under Queen Elizabeth, sumptuary laws dictated people of different social rank were allowed to wear. Women's dresses in Russia during the 16th and 17th centuries identified the wearer's place in society or their family. Holland , as a center of textile production, was a particularly noted area of innovation in dress fashion during

768-512: A dirndl skirt. In recent decades, fashion designers have been creating their own interpretations of the dirndl. While appearing to be simple and plain, a properly made modern dirndl may be quite expensive as it is tailored, and sometimes cut from costly hand-printed or silk fabrics. A recent adaptation is the African dirndl ( Dirndlkleid à l'Africaine ), which is a fusion fashion: the bodice and skirt are made from African printed material. The idea

864-564: A dress of an appropriate style is mandatory for women. They are also very popular for special occasions such as proms or weddings . For such occasions they, together with blouse and skirt , remain the de facto standard attire for many girls and women. In western countries, a "formal" or white tie dress code typically means tailcoats for men and full-length evening dresses with opera-length gloves for women. A most formal dress for women are full-length ball or evening gowns with evening gloves . Some white tie functions also request that

960-506: A high neckline and long sleeves, and an "evening" bodice with a low neckline ( decollete ) and very short sleeves. In Russia, metal hoopskirts were known as "malakhovs." Skirts of the 1860s were heavily decorated. To sleep, women in the American West wore floor-length dresses of white cotton with high collars displaying decoration. Various Native American people, such as the Navajo and

1056-423: A knot in the centre of the front (none of your business) or the centre of the back (widow, waitress or child). A dirndl skirt is a full, wide skirt, gathered into folds at the waist. The terms Trachtenmode and Landhausmode (literally "country house style") describe clothing of various styles borrowing elements from folk costume, such as colour, cut or material. Examples would be single-piece dresses featuring

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1152-431: A mark of the conservative peasant. Thus the spread of French fashions increased the contrast between the fashionable clothes of the wealthier classes and folk costumes, which were increasingly perceived as rustic, not fit for polite society. This point is illustrated by the first Oktoberfest , held in 1810 to celebrate the wedding of Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria (later King Ludwig I ) to Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen ;

1248-507: A personal memoir, Moritz Wallach later stated, "We saw a possibility to keep these irreplaceable traditions and to revitalize them.” The seamstresses employed by the Wallach brothers produced elegant dirndls from colourful printed fabrics, predominantly silk; these were exhibited by models in the Alpine resorts. A major breakthrough for the Wallach brothers came in 1910, when they organized and paid for

1344-407: A resurgence from 1990. Each of these periods has left an impression on the design and perception of the dirndl. The dirndl originated as a dress worn in rural areas, a more hardy form of the costume worn today. Rural costumes originated in the countryside; they showed that the wearer belonged to a particular social class, occupation, religious persuasion or ethnic group. Differing designs developed in

1440-420: A sharp break between traditional folk costume ( tracht ) and the "dirndl", a word which they use only for modern designs. For instance, tracht scholar Thekla Weissengruber distinguishes between renewed tracht (based closely upon historical designs) and Trachtenbekleidung (tracht clothing), including dirndls and lederhosen. She says: "In this category the designs in general keep to patterns which go back to

1536-503: A short skirt (reaching to her ankles) when she lived in Russia between 1785 and 1801 and many Russian women copied her style. By the 1840s, Russian women were turning to what was in fashion in Europe. Europeans styles in dresses increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline -supported styles of the 1860s, then fullness was draped and drawn to the back. Dresses had a "day" bodice with

1632-501: A silken textile fabric having a short dense piled surface. In all probability the art of velvet-weaving originated in the Far East; and it is not till about the beginning of the 14th century that we find any mention of the textile. The peculiar properties of velvet, the splendid yet softened depth of dye-colour it exhibited, at once marked it out as a fit material for ecclesiastical vestments , royal and state robes, and sumptuous hangings; and

1728-547: A simple summer dress, it was an affordable alternative to the often expensive and elaborately worked historic women's costumes. Between 1920 and 1926, the Wallach brothers operated the Münchner Volkskunsthaus ("Munich house of folk art"). In 1926, Moritz Wallach founded the Wallach-haus (Wallach House), a specialist supplier of tracht and folk art, which became well known outside the borders of Germany. In Austria,

1824-499: A uniform of the association. He argued that, for folk costume to be a living tradition, it needed to express the individuality of the wearer; thus designs and materials needed to be adapted to contemporary culture and technology. Accordingly, he worked with commercial firms on finding material and designs that would allow the production of folk costume in large quantities. Consequently, Alpine tracht gained in general popularity and even spread to eastern Austria, where it had not been part of

1920-416: A very soft, reflective fabric). A small percentage of spandex is sometimes added to give the final material a certain amount of stretch (hence "stretch velvet"). Velvet has a thick pile and can be cut 'pile up' or 'pile down' for more shine or more saturated color. Because of its unusual softness and appearance as well as its high cost of production, velvet has often been associated with nobility. Velvet

2016-590: A young woman, a girlfriend or the dress. The dress can for clarity be called Dirndlkleid (literally 'young woman's dress') or Dirndlgewand ('young woman's clothing'). Dirndl is the form of the word in Standard German. In the Bavarian and Austrian varieties of German , the word is interchangeably Dirndl or Diandl . Speakers of German have conflicting opinions as to whether the name "dirndl" can be used for traditional as well as modern designs. Some speakers make

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2112-407: Is an absolute faux-pas to wear a dirndl without a blouse. In the past few decades, a modern tradition has developed around the placement of the knot on the apron. According to this tradition, tying the sash on the woman's left side indicates that she is single, and a knot tied on the right means that she is married, engaged or otherwise not interested in dating. In some versions, this is extended to

2208-401: Is coloured or printed. The neckline ( Ausschnitt ) of the bodice is traditionally round or rectangular (called "balconette"). In more modern designs, it may alternatively be high, V-shaped, heart-shaped or extra deep. The bodice often has embroidered decoration, especially when worn for public events. The skirt ( Rock ) is full, with folds gathered in at the waist. Before the 1930s, it

2304-464: Is difficult to clean because of its pile, but modern dry cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible. Velvet pile is created by cutting the warp yarns, while velveteen pile is created by cutting the weft yarns. Velvet can be made from several different kinds of fibers, the most expensive of which is silk . Much of the velvet sold today as "silk velvet" is a blend of silk and another fiber, often rayon or cotton . Velvet made entirely from silk

2400-539: Is often enhanced with a balconette bra ( dirndl-BH ), especially for large public events. In spring, the front of the bodice is sometimes decorated with a corsage of fresh flowers. Other popular accessories include waistcoats , silk aprons and vibrantly coloured, hand-printed silk scarves (the latter especially in the Austrian Ausseerland ). In colder weather, long-sleeved woollen jackets ( Janker ) are worn, as are knitted woollen shawls . The dirndl

2496-450: Is often worn with a hair ornament called the jungfernkranz : a small floral wreath traditionally worn by unmarried women. In Hinterskirchen in Bavaria, unmarried women wear a small crown ( kranl ). In more formal settings such as church festivals, a hat or bonnet is traditionally worn. In some regions of southern Germany and Austria, married women accompany the dirndl with a bonnet called

2592-642: Is rare and usually has market prices of several hundred US dollars per yard. Cotton is also used to make velvet, though this often results in a less luxurious fabric. Velvet can also be made from fibers such as linen , mohair , and wool . A cloth made by the Kuba people of the Democratic Republic of Congo from the raffia palm is often referred to as "Kuba velvet" . Modern velvet can be polyester , nylon , viscose , acetate , or blends of synthetics and natural fibers (for example, viscose mixed with silk produces

2688-512: Is regarded as a folk costume (in German Tracht ). It developed as the clothing of Alpine peasants between the 16th and 18th centuries. Today it is generally considered the traditional dress for women and girls in German-speaking parts of the Alps, with particular designs associated with different regions. The usual masculine tracht counterpart of the dirndl is lederhosen . In the late 19th century

2784-431: Is tight to the body, with a deep neckline ( décolletage ). It is typically made in a single piece, with the join in the front centre, secured by lacing, buttons, a hook-and-eye closure or a zip . A zip can also be on the back or the side. Traditionally, the bodice was made from dark heavy cotton, so that it would be hard-wearing. In more modern designs, it may be made from cotton , linen , velvet or silk . The material

2880-656: Is usually white. Short puff sleeves are typical, although narrow sleeves (short or long) are also common. The apron ( Schürze ) is attached to the skirt and is narrow, covering only the front of the skirt. Traditional apron designs vary according to local tradition and are typically only a single colour. In modern designs, the designs are more elaborate. The winter style dirndl has heavy, warm skirts, long sleeves and aprons made of thick cotton , linen , velvet or wool . The colours are usually brown, deep green or dark blue. Traditional dirndls vary in design between regions and even villages. The different details may indicate

2976-524: The Brettlhaube in Wachau . Muslim women have begun wearing the dirndl with a Hijab . Shoes worn with the dirndl are typically court shoes (pumps) or flat, ballerina-type shoes. Knee-length socks or tights are commonly worn on the legs. Because the appeal of the dirndl is its rustic look, plastic dirndls with flashy ornaments are looked down upon. Style experts recommend staying away from cheap outfits. The dirndl should be tightly fitted to look right. It

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3072-605: The British Colonies , multi-piece dresses were also popular, though less luxurious. Wealthy women living in the Spanish or Dutch colonies in the Americas copied the fashions that were popular from their homelands. The three-piece dress, which had a bodice, petticoat and gown, was popular until the last 25 years of the century, in which the mantua , or a one-piece gown, became more popular. Corsets became more important in dresses by

3168-622: The Enlightenment , individual freedom against academic dictates and national against global culture. In Germany, Austria and Switzerland, the Enlightenment was especially associated with France, which had sent its armies across Europe in the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars (1792–1815). In response to the humiliations of the repeated French invasions, the protagonists of German romanticism sought to strengthen their cultural heritage. The result

3264-701: The Mescalero Apache began to adapt the designs of their dresses to look more like the European Americans they came in contact with. Navajo women further adapted the European designs, incorporating their own sense of beauty, "creating hózhó." Paper sewing patterns for women to sew their own dresses started to be readily available in the 1860s, when the Butterick Publishing Company began to promote them. These patterns were graded by size, which

3360-581: The Salzburg Festival (1936), and later on their worldwide tours. In addition, the film Heidi , with Shirley Temple in the lead role, became a hit in 1937. By that year, the dirndl was considered a 'must' in the wardrobe of every fashionable American woman. German traditional costume, including the dirndl, was instrumentalized by the Nazis as a symbol of pan-German identity in the countries under Nazi rule ( Germany from 1933, Austria from 1938). The dirndl

3456-573: The Unspunnen festivals of 1805 and 1808. At both events, a parade of traditional costumes was held; the 1808 festival resulted in the formation of the Swiss National Costume Association. In Bavaria and Austria, the royal courts developed enthusiasm for the different costumes of the rural population, which they saw as a means of strengthening national unity; this was consistent with the philosophy of national romanticism, which considers

3552-458: The silver wedding anniversary of King Ludwig I of Bavaria (reigned 1825–1848) and Queen Therese . Under his successor Maximilian II (reigned 1848–1864), traditional costumes were officially recognised as clothing suitable for wearing at the royal court. The king himself included officials wearing tracht in his court ceremonies and wrote in 1849 that he considered the wearing of folk costume of "great importance" for national sentiment. In 1859,

3648-682: The tracht designs found in the Black Forest ; they also occur in folk costumes in other parts of Europe, such as the Norwegian women's Bunad and the Upper Carniola costume of Slovenia . Distinctive features of the dirndl (including the tight bodice, lower neckline and wide skirt), developed from the women's fashions of the royal court in the 17th century; over time, the court fashions made their way into urban and rural clothing. Alpine traditional costume spread to regions in Bavaria and Austria outside

3744-442: The 13th century, although the sleeves once again became more fitted. In the 13th and 14th centuries, a similar dress known as a cote-hardie came into fashion. This garment was closed down the front of the bodice with buttons that extended to the hip; this resulted in a dress that was more fitted through the hip rather than just to the waist. These dresses also often featured decorative elements such as long strips of cloth around

3840-516: The 1550s, middle- and upper-class European women could choose between the still popular rigid farthingale style or a looser-style gown known as a ropa. The ropa style of dress was known by different names throughout Europe, including sumarra (Italy), marlotte (France), and vlieger (Holland). Fashionable sleeves were often more fitted with puffs at the shoulder. From the 1570s, dress became even more highly decorated, exaggerated, and rigid. The previously popular conical skirt shape achieved with

3936-437: The 1680s. Working women, and women in slavery in the Americas , used simple patterns to create shifts, wool or linen petticoats and gowns and cotton dresses. The bottoms of the skirts could be tucked into the waistband when a woman was near a cooking or heating fire. Large, triangular silhouettes were favored during the 18th century, skirts were wide and supported by hoop underskirts. One-piece gowns remained popular until

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4032-493: The 17th Century. In Spain and Portugal, women wore stomachers while in England and France, dresses became more "naturally" shaped. Lace and slashing were popular decorations. Skirts were full, with regular folds and the overskirt allowed the display of an underskirt of contrasting fabric. Necklines became lower as well. Embroidery that reflected scientific discoveries, such as newly discovered animals and plants were popular. In

4128-418: The 1980s as "bodikon". A party dress is a dress worn especially for a party . Different types of party such as children's party , cocktail party , garden party and costume party would tend to require different styles of dress. One classic style of party dress for women in modern society is the little black dress . Velvet Velvet is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of

4224-775: The German-language sphere include the Highland romantic revival in Scotland , the Danish folklore movement and the Bunad movement in Norway . In German-speaking countries, the movement was known as the Trachtenbewegung ( Tracht movement), and resulted in initiatives to study and promote folk costumes, including the dirndl. The folk costume movement is one aspect of national romanticism , and part of

4320-621: The Gutach valley tracht from the Black Forest ), as well as traditional folk costume in Norway ( Bunad ) and Denmark. The dirndl has passed through different periods in its history. These include (1) its origins as rural clothing, (2) development as a recognized folk costume, (3) evolution as a fashion style, (4) appropriation by the Nazis, (5) decline in popularity after the Second World War, followed by (6)

4416-673: The United States, followed shortly after by Julius. Their brother Max, who had also been involved in the business, was interned in Dachau concentration camp and was murdered at Auschwitz in 1944. Viktor von Geramb, who had promoted the dirndl in Austria, lost his position at the University of Vienna in 1938 because of his public opposition to Nazi racial theory. He was especially criticized for his strong attachment to Christian ideas of human worth. He

4512-510: The West. Historically, foundation garments and other structural garments—including items such as corsets , partlets , petticoats , panniers , bustles —were used to achieve the desired silhouette. In the 11th century, women in Europe wore loose garments that were similar in shape to the tunics worn by men. Sleeves varied in fit and length, and hemlines fell below the knees, most often reaching

4608-486: The ankle or ground. These dresses were worn over ankle-length chemise garments. As the century progressed, these dresses featured a tighter fit on the arms and upper body. The tighter fit was achieved by making slits to the waist and in the sleeves that were laced closed to fit the figure. Laces were gradually replaced by buttons. By the end of the 11th century, sleeves widened with cuffs sometimes reaching several feet in circumference. This style remained popular into

4704-400: The art was taken up by Flemish weavers, and in the sixteenth century, Bruges attained a reputation for velvets that were not inferior to those of the great Italian cities. As mechanization was incorporated into the production of textiles in the 19th century, velvet became a more attainable fabric for the middle class. The development of "double velvet" in the 1830s allowed for two pieces of

4800-403: The citizens of Munich were invited to the festivities but were supplied with French clothes, since their folk costumes were not considered suitable for public occasions. As antithesis to the dominance of French fashion, in the early 19th century a movement to study and preserve the traditional costumes of the rural populations developed in many European countries. Examples of this movement outside

4896-455: The design is traditional or modern. For instance, tracht scholar Gexi Tostmann, who sees the modern dirndl as having evolved from traditional tracht designs, also uses the term "dirndl" for historical designs. A developing consensus is that a dirndl can be described as "tracht" when it has been traditionally worn by a distinct people group over a long period. This implies that a dress based on the design principles of Alpine tracht can also be called

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4992-400: The different regions. They were influenced by urban fashions, costumes in neighbouring regions, available materials, as well as fashions in the royal courts and in the military. Dresses similar to the dirndl, featuring skirts with bodices , aprons and blouses were commonplace in Europe from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Similar elements are present in other German folk costumes, for instance

5088-547: The dirndl by upper and middle classes raised the status of the traditional clothing; this in turn encouraged country people to value and continue wearing the traditional folk costumes. Key in the evolution of the dirndl to a commercial fashion were the Jewish brothers Julius (1874–1965) and Moritz Wallach (1879–1963), originally from Bielefeld in north-western Germany. After moving to Munich with their family in 1895, they became interested in and began promoting Alpine tracht. In

5184-457: The dirndl developed elaborate decoration around the collar and breast, including embroidery, floral decorations, tassels and lace collars draped over the shoulders and breast. Elaborate headwear (such as the Goldhaube) developed to indicate distinctions in social status. Nevertheless, folk costume was increasingly perceived as a marker of rural and working classes. The background to this development

5280-414: The dirndl particularly through the cut of its neckline. A deeply cut blouse combines with a deeply cut bodice to accentuate décolletage, whereas a blouse with a high neckline gives a more modest effect. In traditional designs, the blouse neckline is at the base of the throat. Other popular necklines are V-shaped, balconette or heart-shaped. Materials most often used are cambric , linen or lace . The colour

5376-504: The dirndl was adapted by the upper and middle classes as a fashion mode, and subsequently spread as a mode outside its area of origin. There are many varieties of adaptations from the original folk designs. The dirndl is also worn as an ethnic costume by German diaspora populations in other countries. German pronunciation: [Dirndl] is a diminutive of German pronunciation: [Dirn(e)] , originally meaning "young woman". In Bavaria and Austria, Dirndl can mean

5472-413: The dominant style overall. In addition to the shorter dresses, waistlines were looser and the dominant colors were black, white and gray. By 1920, the "new woman" was a trend that saw lighter fabrics and dresses that were easier to put on. Younger women were also setting the trends that older women started to follow. The dresses of the 1920s could be pulled over the head and were short and straight. It

5568-419: The elbow known as tippets. In the 15th century, houppelandes and gowns became popular. Houppelandes were full-cut, floor-length dresses with high collars and full sleeves. Gowns were also long dresses, but they had open necklines, a closer-fitted bodice, and sleeves that became more fitted as the century progressed. Both houppelandes and gowns were often belted just below the bust. European dresses in at

5664-490: The first association to promote folk costume was founded in Miesbach in Bavaria. In the following years, similar tracht associations ( Trachtenvereine ) were founded throughout Germany and Austria. The tracht associations promoted research and wearing of the traditional clothing in each region. This helped preserve the traditions against modern fashions; in contrast, the wearing of the traditional tracht declined in regions where

5760-441: The following innovations from traditional designs: (1) the collar was removed, allowing display of décolletage; (2) long sleeves were replaced by puff sleeves; (3) the waist was emphasised with tighter lacing and buttons; and (4) the skirt was reduced to mid length. The overall effect accentuated the female form and especially the breasts. Pesendorfer described the new style as "de-catholicised" ( entkatholisiert ); she said her goal

5856-436: The historical costume models; only the materials, skirt lengths and colour compositions change from season to season and correspond to the trends coming from centres of fashion." This distinction assumes that the term "dirndl" describes only clothing of more modern design. However, many other German-speakers use the terms "dirndl" and "tracht" interchangeably for a woman's dress in the general dirndl style, regardless of whether

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5952-546: The later part of the 18th century. Throughout this period, the length of fashionable dresses varied only slightly, between ankle-length and floor-sweeping. Between 1740 and 1770, the robe à la française was very popular with upper-class women. In France, the Empire style became popular after the French Revolution . This simpler style was also favored by Josephine Bonaparte , wife of Napoleon . Other popular styles during

6048-578: The look popularized by the Gibson Girl was fashionable. The upper part of women's dresses in the Edwardian era included a "pigeon breast" look that gave way to a corseted waist and an s-shaped silhouette. Women called their dresses "waists" if one-piece, or " shirtwaists ," if it consisted of a skirt and a blouse. The bodice of the dresses had a boned lining. Informally, wealthy women wore tea gowns at home. These garments were looser, though not as loose as

6144-421: The material at the same time; the two layers are connected with an extra warp yarn that is woven over rods or wires. The two pieces are then cut apart to create the fabric's pile, and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls. This complicated process meant that velvet was expensive to make before industrial power looms became available, and well-made velvet remains a fairly costly fabric. Velvet

6240-498: The middle of the century. During the 1760s in France, hoop petticoats were reduced in size. Lighter colors and lighter fabrics were also favored. In Colonial America, women most often wore a gown and petticoat, in which the skirt of the gown opened to reveal the petticoat underneath. Women also had riding habits which consisted of the petticoat, jacket and a waistcoat. French fashion regarding dresses became very fast-changing during

6336-589: The more widespread Romantic movement of the early 19th century. Art historian Gabriele Crepaldi points out the links between the ideological and political dimensions of the Romantic movement: The label romantic ... (refers to) a cultural movement which spread in Great Britain, France, Italy and other European countries between the late 18th century and the first half of the 19th century. Its protagonists were philosophers, writers, musicians and painters. In Germany it

6432-521: The most magnificent textures of medieval times were Italian velvets. These were in many ways most effectively treated for ornamentation, such as by varying the colour of the pile, by producing pile of different lengths (pile upon pile, or double pile), and by brocading with plain silk, with uncut pile or with a ground of gold tissue, &c. The earliest sources of European artistic velvets were Catanzaro , Lucca , Genoa , Florence , and Venice, which continued to send out rich velvet textures. Somewhat later

6528-624: The mountains through migration in search of work. As a result, the dirndl developed over time into female Austrian servants' work clothes . Distinctions developed between the everyday version of rural costumes and the version used for festive occasions; the festive version of each costume tradition was considered the ideal form. Festive dirndls were especially worn at events associated with the Catholic church , such as Sunday church services and public pilgrim processions. Other popular occasions included markets and Volksfeste . Over time, festive versions of

6624-511: The other side, political positions stood behind Romantic expressions: in contrast to the Enlightenment's ideology of global citizenship, the Romantics re-discovered the idea of the homeland and the value of the folk culture. Especially in Italy and Germany , a connection can be seen to the movements for national reunification. Crepaldi said that the Romantics promoted emotion against the rationalism of

6720-465: The overall style of dress was fairly consistent across the continent, there were regional differences often involving sleeve shape and decorative elements. European courts, such as Tudor court and the wives of Henry VIII , were influential in European fashion. From the 1540s, the bodices of dresses were stiffened, flattening the wearer's chest, and skirts were shaped with a Spanish farthingale . The resulting silhouette resembled two triangles. From

6816-451: The place of origin and social status of the wearer. As with other folk costumes , traditional dirndls often come in two forms: one for everyday occasions, the other for traditional festivals and formal wear. Dirndls worn in everyday use are rural domestic clothing, made from grey or coloured linen, sometimes with leather bodice and trim. Dirndls used on formal occasions are usually made with materials, designs, colours and embroidery specific to

6912-405: The region. Some traditional designs feature pieces which drape over the breast, often combined with an elaborate collar. This has the function of concealing décolletage, in line with traditional Catholic ideas of modesty. Jewellery worn with the dirndl includes necklaces, earrings, chokers and chains. Also popular are brooches made of silver, the antlers of deer or even animals' teeth. Décolletage

7008-502: The resolute innkeeper heroine, the dirndl became an international fashion phenomenon, always with an apron and usually with deep décolletage . This widespread adoption was helped along by a general 1930s trend to a silhouette which matched the folk costume: full skirts, higher hemlines, broader shoulders and tailored waists. The dirndl was also promoted through the Trapp Family Singers, who wore dirndls during their performance at

7104-486: The revolution included tunic dresses and the negligée à la patriot, which featured the red, white and blue colors of the flag. Women's dresses in the 19th century began to be classified by the time of day or purpose of the dress. High-waisted dresses were popular until around 1830. Early nineteenth century dresses in Russia were influenced by Classicism and were made of thin fabrics, with some semi-transparent. Elizabeth Vigée Le Brun wore these types of dresses with

7200-489: The ruler of Mali, wore a locally produced complete crimson velvet kaftan on Eid . During the reign of Mehmed II , assistant cooks wore blue dresses ( câme-i kebûd ), conical hats ( کلاه , külâh ) and baggy trousers ( چاقشیر , çakşır ) made from Bursa velvet. King Richard II of England directed in his will that his body should be clothed in velveto in 1399. The Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition described velvet and its history thus: VELVET,

7296-635: The same time, in the United States, the American Ladies Tailors' Association developed a dress called the suffragette suit , which was practical for women to work and move around in. Another innovation of the 1910s was the ready availability of factory-made clothing. Waistlines started out high and by 1915 were below the natural waist. By 1920, waistlines were at hip-level. Between 1910 and 1920 necklines were lower and dresses could be short-sleeved or sleeveless. Women who worked during World War I preferred shorter dresses, which eventually became

7392-407: The start of the 16th century resembled those of the previous century: full-cut, belted gowns with large sleeve openings worn over a kirtle or petticoat and chemise. Decorative treatments such as pinking, slashing, and blackwork embroidery became increasingly common. Necklines were initially low and broad, but wearers began to fill in the open space with high collared chemises or partlets. Although

7488-484: The state to derive its political legitimacy from the unity of those it governs. The first extensive description of traditional tracht in the different regions was given by the Bavarian official Joseph von Hazzi (1768–1845). A comprehensive description of Bavarian national costumes was published in 1830 by the archivist Felix Joseph von Lipowsky. A parade of traditional costumes took place in 1835 at Oktoberfest , to celebrate

7584-432: The successor of Ludwig II ; both often hunted wearing lederhosen. Around 1875, Elisabeth of Bavaria , the wife of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph, promoted wearing a rustic dress called a 'Sisi', based on the peasant dirndl. The wearing of folk costume by royalty encouraged its adoption by other members of the upper and wealthier middle classes. From the 1870s onwards, the dirndl developed as a typical "country" dress amongst

7680-532: The tracht associations were not active. The first umbrella organisation for the tracht associations was founded in 1890. By the later 19th century, it had become popular for members of the royal courts in Austria and Bavaria to wear folk costume, in order to promote identification between the population and the court. Among the most prominent royal patrons of folk costume were the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and Luitpold, Prince Regent of Bavaria ,

7776-517: The traditional clothing culture. The dirndl was increasingly perceived as the Austrian national dress. In 1930, the Wallach brothers supplied the stage costumes for the operetta The White Horse Inn ( Im weißen Rössl ). The romantic comedy presented an idyllic picture of the Austrian Alps and had long runs in cities including Berlin , Vienna , Munich , London , Paris and New York . Inspired by

7872-561: The traditional costume parade for the 100th anniversary celebrations of the Oktoberfest . They also designed a festive dirndl for Princess Marie-Auguste of Anhalt , which created a sensation at a ball in Paris ; virtually overnight, the Wallach name became internationally famous in fashionable circles. In the hard economic times following the First World War , the dirndl became a big-seller; as

7968-426: The wealthy patrons of the summer resort towns in Austria and Bavaria. The adoption of the dirndl as a fashion resulted in a synthesis of tradition and high fashion: the dirndls worn by upper-class women took the basic design of the traditional dirndl but also used more fashionable materials such as silk, lace and expensive thread. The garment was made more closely fitted to emphasize the female body shape. The adoption of

8064-528: The wearing of folk costume was promoted by Viktor von Geramb (1884–1958), professor of folk culture at the universities of Graz and Vienna . He saw folk costume as a means of rejuvenating Austrian identity after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy during the First World War. Von Geramb was critical of the tracht associations for insisting rigidly on the historic designs, which were treated as

8160-547: The women wear long gloves past the elbow. A basic dress is a usually dark-colored dress of simple design which can be worn with various accessories to suit different occasions. Different kinds of jewelry, belts, scarves, and jackets can be worn with the basic dress to dress up or down. A little black dress is an example of a basic dress. A bodycon dress is a tight figure-hugging dress, often made from stretchy material. The name derives from "body confidence" or, originally, "body conscious", transformed into Japanese in

8256-481: Was a flowering of research and artistic work centred around Germanic cultural traditions, expressed in painting, literature, architecture, music and promotion of German language and folklore. The promotion of folk costumes similarly strengthened national identity in a visible way, especially against French-inspired fashions. The earliest public promotion of tracht in the German-speaking world occurred in Switzerland, at

8352-468: Was a new innovation. The Victorian era's dresses were tight-fitting and decorated with pleats, rouching and frills. Women in the United States who were involved in dress reform in the 1850s found themselves the center of attention, both positive and negative. By 1881, the Rational Dress Society had formed in reaction to the restrictive dress of the era. In the early twentieth century,

8448-864: Was acceptable to wear sleeveless dresses during the day. Flapper dresses were popular until end of the decade. During World War II , dresses were slimmer and inspired by military uniforms. After WWII, the New Look, promoted by Christian Dior was very influential on fashion and the look of women's dresses for about a decade. Since the 1970s, no one dress type or length has dominated fashion for long, with short and ankle-length styles often appearing side by side in fashion magazines and catalogs. [REDACTED] = Day (before 6 p.m.) [REDACTED] = Evening (after 6 p.m.)     = Bow tie colour [REDACTED] = Ladies [REDACTED] = Gentlemen In most varieties of formal dress codes in Western cultures,

8544-520: Was innovated by two Cameroonian sisters and Chief executive officers of the Noh Nee label in Munich , Marie Darouiche and her sister Rahmée Wetterich. The African dirndl was premiered at Oktoberfest in 2019. Since similar design elements occur in other European folk costumes , these designs are sometimes mistaken for dirndls. Similar designs occur in other tracht traditions in German-speaking countries (e.g.

8640-656: Was introduced to Baghdad during the rule of Harun al-Rashid (786–809) by Kashmiri merchants and to Al-Andalus by Ziryab . In the Mamluk era, Cairo was the world's largest producer of velvet. Much of it was exported to Venice (whence it spread to most of Europe), Iberia and the Mali Empire . Mansa Musa , the ruler of the Mali Empire, visited Cairo on his pilgrimage to Mecca . Many Arab velvet makers accompanied him back to Timbuktu . Later Ibn Battuta mentions how Suleyman ,

8736-466: Was restored to his position at the university after the defeat of the Nazi régime in 1945. The National Socialist Women's League established the office of the "Reich Commissioner for German costume" under the leadership of Gertrud Pesendorfer (1895–1982). In 1938, she published dirndl designs by Gretel Karasek (1910–1992), which Pesendorfer described as "renewed costume". Pesendorfer claimed that Karasek made

8832-420: Was separate from the bodice, but since then the two have been sewn to one another. Originally the skirt was long, but in more modern designs it is typically mid-length. There are also miniskirt versions. Traditionally, the skirt has a pocket on the side or in front, hidden under the apron. The blouse ( Bluse ) is worn under the bodice, and is cropped above the midriff. The blouse changes the overall effect of

8928-415: Was the French government policy from the mid-17th century onwards of promoting and exporting luxury fashion , using expensive materials such as silk , lace , and gold and silver thread. Attempts by other European governments to fight French economic dominance of the fashion industry had the effect of spreading fashion in the French style. For instance, the Austrian empress Maria Theresa considered imposing

9024-455: Was the writers and intellectuals of the Sturm and Drang movement who reacted critically against the rationalism of the Enlightenment and the doctrines of neo-Classicism . The Romantics defended the creative and spiritual autonomy of individuals and proclaimed their freedom from aesthetic norms and pretensions. Inwardness and subjective feeling found in romantic art their authentic expression... On

9120-573: Was to free the costume of "overburdening by church, industrialization and fashionable cries" and "foreign influences" and to let the "rogue sub-culture" back again. However, Pesendorfer´s claims are questionable, since all the claimed innovations by Karasek were already present in the previous decades during which the dirndl evolved as a fashion. For instance, the painting " Lesendes Mädchen " painted by Emil Rau (see above) clearly shows puff sleeves, although Rau died in 1937, before Karasek's designs were published. Dress A dress (also known as

9216-547: Was used to promote the Nazi ideal of the German woman as hard-working and fertile. An example is a propaganda photo released by the (Nazi Party) Office of Racial Politics, showing a young blonde girl wearing a dirndl, watching over small boys playing. Jews were forbidden to use "folk culture", even though they had played such a prominent role in documenting and promoting it. In 1938, the Wallach brothers were forced to sell their business for less than its worth. Moritz Wallach emigrated to

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