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28-579: Captain David Cheap (1697 – 21 July 1752) was a Scottish Royal Navy officer. He is known for two incidents in his career. First, he was in command of HMS  Wager when it was wrecked in May 1741 on the shores of Wager Island in Chilean Patagonia. Second was his capture of a Spanish galleon in 1746, the prize of which made him a rich man. Spain and Great Britain were at war in 1739. Cheap, then just

56-581: A NATO ranking code of OF-5. The rank is equivalent to a colonel in the British Army and Royal Marines , and to a group captain in the Royal Air Force . There are similarly named equivalent ranks in the navies of many other countries. In the Royal Navy, the officer in command of any warship of the rank of commander and below is informally referred to as "the captain" on board, even though holding

84-532: A lieutenant , was appointed to serve under Commodore George Anson , commander of an expedition to the Pacific Ocean. The original captain of Wager died, at sea, while the expedition was still navigating the South Atlantic. Anson gave Cheap acting command of the vessel. Cheap's management of Wager , prior to the wreck, and his attempts to manage his former crew, after the wreck, continue to be discussed to

112-590: A decade after the Second World War . The title was probably used informally up until the abolition of frigate and destroyer squadrons with the Fleet FIRST reorganisation circa 2001. Ashore, the rank of captain is often verbally described as "captain RN" to distinguish it from the more junior Army and Royal Marines rank , and in naval contexts, as a "four-ring captain" (referring to the uniform lace) to avoid confusion with

140-508: A junior rank, but formally is titled "the commanding officer" (or CO). Until the nineteenth century, Royal Navy officers who were captains by rank and in command of a naval vessel were referred to as post-captains ; this practice is now defunct. Captain (D) or Captain Destroyers, afloat, was an operational appointment commanding a destroyer flotilla or squadron , and there was a corresponding administrative appointment ashore, until at least

168-452: A red tail coat with short tails, known as a coatee, was part of the infantry uniform of the British army . The collar and cuffs were in the regimental colors and the coats had white braid on the front. Elite light infantry units like the 95th Rifles were issued short green coats to provide camouflage and ease of movement. The Americans issued a similar uniform in dark blue to enlisted men during

196-475: A welted pocket on the outside of the chest to hold a pocket square, but prior to this dress coats lacked any outer pockets. The front of the skirt is squarely cut away. Since around the 1830s the coat has been constructed with a waist seam that allows greater waist suppression. From the Victorian era , the revers has taken facings in silk ( grosgrain or satin ) on the lapels . Although it is double-breasted, since

224-444: A white metal); a matching white marcella cotton or satin silk bowtie and white waistcoat ; black trousers with one or two silk galon; and black oxfords (without a toe cap) or pumps ; the shoes must be polished to a mirror shine or be made of patent leather and are worn with black, over-the-calf silk socks. Additionally, a top hat, silk dress scarf, and white dress gloves are either seen as acceptable or mandatory. A gentleman's top hat

252-506: Is a man's coat worn as the principal item in morning dress. The name derives from morning nineteenth-century horseback riding exercise for gentlemen. It was regarded as an informal form of half dress . Gradually it became acceptable as an alternative to the frock coat for formal day wear or full dress. Since the nineteenth century it is normally only seen at weddings, at formal baptisms, and in England and Australia, at races such as Royal Ascot ,

280-514: Is traditionally called a dress coat to differentiate it from other types of tailcoats. The modern dress coat is an evolution of the coat that was once both day and evening dress. It became increasingly popular from around the late 1790s and was particularly widespread during the British Regency , and in America in the 1830s to 1850s. The dress coat was supplanted in the 1840s as formal day wear by

308-425: Is traditionally referred to by tailors as a dress suit . A dress coat is waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back. Sometimes there is a pocket on the inside to hold gloves . Since around the 1840s the dress coat has lacked outside side pockets, but prior to this it took flapped side pockets. Since the early twentieth century, it has become acceptable in America to have

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336-492: The Early Modern era . From the 18th century, however, tailcoats evolved into general forms of day and evening formal wear , in parallel to how the lounge suit succeeded the frock coat (19th century) and the justacorps (18th century). Thus, in 21st-century Western dress codes for men, mainly two types of tailcoats have survived: In colloquial language without further specification, "tailcoat" typically designates

364-608: The Speedwell , under the command of the ship's former gunner, John Bulkeley . Cheap and three of his former officers were captured by Spanish authorities, and arrived back in Britain years after Bulkeley, and after Bulkeley had published an account of the voyage that showed Cheap in a poor light. Captain (Royal Navy) Captain ( Capt ) is a senior officer rank of the Royal Navy . It ranks above commander and below commodore and has

392-684: The War of 1812 . This remained in service until 1833 when it was replaced with a shell jacket . Officers continued to wear tail coats until after the Mexican War when frock coats became the standard field wear. By the time the M1858 uniform was introduced tail coats had been relegated to full dress. The Royal Navy had an elaborate hierarchy of tailcoats for the officers, allowing further buttons and gilding according to rank and seniority. These were single-breasted for junior officers and double-breasted for those with

420-402: The 1870s, the dress coat no longer fastens in the front. As a result, although there are two rows of buttons, these are all non-functional, serving only a decorative function. As part of modern white tie , a black dress coat is worn with a stiff, white wing-collar dress shirt , with a plain starched (pique or plain-weave) bib that takes shirt studs, single cuffs fastened with cufflinks (of

448-543: The Derby and the Victoria Derby where it is worn with a contrasting waistcoat, usually light grey or sometimes "fancy", and perhaps in club colours. It is very occasionally seen at funerals but more often it is used as day wear at formal luncheons, especially civic occasions under formal gowns, when worn with a black matching waistcoat (vest). Male members of the cabinet of Japan wear it in their first public appearance following

476-503: The coat is now only worn as formalwear. When it was first introduced, the step lapel was common, since it was worn as half dress. The coat can be grey or black as part of morning dress , and is usually worn with striped, or very occasionally checked, trousers. The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat. The modern morning coat (or cutaway in American English)

504-620: The formation of the cabinet. The Marshal and Clerk of the United States Supreme Court wear morning coats when the justices are appearing in public wearing their traditional robes, for example when the court is in session, or when attending the President's State of the Union address . At one time all attorneys appearing before the court wore morning coats but they now wear standard business attire. The United States Solicitor General (when

532-403: The former, that is the evening (1) dress coat for white tie. In equestrianism , a variant called a shadbelly is still worn in certain disciplines in its eighteenth-century role as daytime formalwear. It is basically a form of dress coat which is closer in cut to the early nineteenth-century style worn by Beau Brummel than to the modern version worn with evening formal dress. The male version of

560-504: The frock coat, which was in turn replaced in the early twentieth century by the morning coat . In the Regency period, the dress coat with gilt buttons was always worn with non-matching trousers, pantaloons or breeches. Since the Victorian era, the modern dress coat for evening wear has been worn with matching trousers of the same cloth with two stripes of braiding down the side. The resulting suit

588-506: The levée dress coat. A dress coat , sometimes called a swallow-tail or claw-hammer coat, is the coat that has, since the 1850s, come to be worn only in the evening by men as part of the white tie dress code , also known as evening full dress , for formal evening occasions. It is commonly referred to as just a tailcoat in America, or tails in Great Britain, but amongst tailors (both British and American) and dress historians it

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616-421: The present day. Cheap had been an unpopular commander, and, after the ship was wrecked, most of his crew would not follow his instructions. Officer's commissions, at the time, only appointed them to command ships. Seamen's pay ended when a ship was sunk. His former crew thought his formal authority over them ended when the ship was sunk. Most of the surviving crew attempted to sail to safety in the ship's longboat ,

644-488: The rank of captain and above wear gold-laced trousers (the trousers are known as "tin trousers", and the gold lace stripes thereon are nicknamed "lightning conductors"), and may wear the undress tailcoat (without epaulettes). Tailcoat A tailcoat is a knee-length coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt (known as the tails ), with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse-riding in

672-406: The rank of lieutenant and above. This is worn with Highland dress, and has a square cut away front like a dress coat, but the tails are cut significantly shorter. This was worn as livery , a servant's uniform. It was knee length with a sloped cut-away front like a morning coat. It was single breasted with a stand-up collar and gilt buttons. There were three-pronged side pockets similar in style to

700-468: The shadbelly is often called a "weaselbelly". This is a type of dress coat traditionally worn with court dress , until the mid-twentieth century. It was made of black velvet and traditionally worn at court, levées , and evening state parties by those who did not wear uniforms. A version made of black barathea was also worn as diplomatic dress . It was single breasted with a stand-up collar, with plain gauntlet cuffs, and two three-pointed flap pockets on

728-510: The title of a seagoing commanding officer. In the Ministry of Defence , and in joint service establishments, a captain may be referred to as a "DACOS" (standing for deputy assistant chief of staff) or an "AH" (assistant head), from the usual job title of OF5-ranked individuals who work with civil servants. The rank insignia features four rings of gold braid with an executive curl in the upper ring. When in mess dress or mess undress, officers of

756-459: The waist seam. It had six metal buttons at the front, and two decorative buttons at the back. The body of the coat was lined with black silk, and skirts with white silk. It was worn with breeches, black silk hose, white bow tie, white gloves, and court shoes (pumps) with steel buckles. The front of the coat was cut away squarely like a standard dress coat. From c. 1790 until after the Crimean War ,

784-457: Was traditionally made of silk plush, although the last supplies of this material have now been exhausted, so inferior hats are made of silk or felt cloth. A morning coat is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle, and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam. The lapels are usually pointed (American English peak), not step (notch), since

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