The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards (awarded 1943–1984) were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty to promote and celebrate American fashion , and encourage design during the Second World War . In 1985, the Coty Awards were discontinued with the last presentation of the awards in September 1984; the CFDA Awards fulfill a similar role. It was casually referred to as "fashion's Oscars" because it once held great importance within the fashion industry and the award ceremonies were glitzy galas.
20-571: The Coty (Avery Nabavian Award) Awards were conceived and created by Coty, Inc. Executive Vice President, Jean Despres , founder of The Fragrance Foundation and FiFi Awards , and Grover Whalen (a member of the New York City Mayor's Committee, and president of the 1939 New York World's Fair ). The fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert was employed to promote and produce the awards. The awards were given solely to designers based in America, unlike
40-482: A milliner or hatter . Historically, milliners made and sold a range of accessories for clothing and hairstyles. In France, milliners are known as marchand(e)s de modes ( fashion merchants ), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialise in hats by the beginning of the Victorian period. The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during
60-512: A Chevalier of the Confrerie des Chevaliers de Tastevin, and resident of New York City, Pound Ridge, NY, Delray Beach, Florida and Meudon, France. In the 1940s he became an American Citizen. Despres married milliner and fashion designer Lilly Daché in Palm Beach, Florida on March 13, 1786. His grandson, John Gordon Gauld, is a New York and Massachusetts artist. Daughter, Suzanne Dache, continues
80-515: A shipping clerk, he went on to become a travelling salesman, covering thousands of miles on the Santa Fe Railroad across America to sell Coty perfumes and gift sets. He soon became a sales manager, and in 1942 was appointed Executive Vice President of Coty. He had held this position for more than 25 years when Pfizer purchased Coty in 1968. Coty, was a French perfume company created by wealthy François Coty , proprietor of Le Figaro ,
100-436: Is an intricately carved wood form shaped by skillful woodworkers. Hat blocks are the tools of the trade for milliners in creating a unique hat crown shape. Some of the hat blocks are ensembles with crown and brimmed, while some are only with crown or brim or designed for fascinators . Milliners always have an extensive collection of different hat blocks because there are specific hat sizes and custom shapes for every hat block. In
120-539: Is commonly used for the curve of floral pastels. Milliners often use buckram , a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horse hair) cloth with a loose weave. Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a hat block , and left to dry into a hard shape. Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats), single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as theatrical buckram or crown buckram ). This
140-552: Is still a standard process for the students who freshly graduated from the millinery schools. Many well-known milliners experienced this stage. For example, Rose Bertin was an apprentice to a successful fashion merchant Mademoiselle Pagelle before her success. There are many renowned millinery schools located in Europe, especially in London, Paris, and Italy. During COVID-19 , many millinery courses were taught virtually. A wooden hat block
160-729: The Neiman Marcus Fashion Awards . Until its discontinuation in 1985, the Coty Award was considered one of the most prestigious awards in the field of fashion. The awards were designed by Malvina Hoffman . The womenswear awards are popularly known as Winnies ; the menswear award which began in 1968 has no name. Repeat awards were the Return Award and the Hall of Fame award. Special Awards were also awarded to designers in specialist fields. The popularity of this award began to decline in
180-414: The 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of "milliner" gradually changed in meaning from "a foreign merchant" to "a dealer in small articles relating to dress". Although the term originally applied to men, from 1713 "milliner" gradually came to mean a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other accessories for women. Milliners work independently based on job order specifications or their designs, observing
200-558: The Coty Award by 1980 with the CFDA Awards. In June 1985, Donald Flannery, the senior vice-president of Pfizer, Inc. , Coty's parent company, announced that since the awards had successfully brought America into the worldwide fashion scene, it was decided to discontinue them. Jean Despres Jean Despres (1903 – August 9, 1988) was a perfume industry businessman, known for his work with Coty The French-born Jean Despres came to New York in 1921 working for Coty. Starting as
220-447: The Dache businesses. This biographical article related to fashion is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . This French business–related biographical article is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . Hatmaking Hat-making or millinery is the design , manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear. A person engaged in this trade is called
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#1733092650708240-730: The French daily newspaper headquartered on the Champs-Élysées in Paris , France and owner of numerous chateaux and villas in France and Corsica. Coty died in 1934. Jean Despres led Coty in New York with Philippe Cortney, brother-in-law of Mrs.Coty-Cotnareanu. He founded the Fragrance Foundation in New York, for the perfume industry, serving as its president. When he retired he appointed Anette Greene. He
260-767: The Metropolitan Club (where he was a member for 50 years) subsequently moved to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and eventually held at Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center . He joined the New York Athletic Club when it opened in 1924, was a director of the French Hospital in New York City, of Coty International, the French-American Chamber of Commerce, Compagnie de St. Gobain and Lilly Dache, Inc.,
280-441: The blocking process of a hat, milliners used push pins and a hammer to hold the adjustable string along the crown's collar and the brim's edge. A floral-making iron is a unique iron used by milliners to create different floral petals or leaves as the ornament for hat decoration. In the past, candles were used to heat these irons with various shapes of metal in one set. Nowadays, these irons are electric. A ball-shaped metal heading
300-644: The late 1970s due to perceived commercial interests by the parent company. In 1979, designers Calvin Klein and Halston announced they would no longer accept the Winnie award. The same year, in 1979, Coty released the Coty Awards make up kit in order to profit off of the awards ceremony, which was perceived by the fashion designers to have cheapened the event. The newly founded Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) appeared more democratic in ideology and began to compete with
320-437: The nineteenth century. In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in department stores ,
340-445: The presentation and sale of the products. The millinery industry's apprenticeship culture is commonly seen since the 18th century, while milliner was more like a stylist and created hats or bonnets to go with costumes and chose the laces, trims, and accessories to complete an ensemble piece. Millinery apprentices learned hat-making and styling, running the business, and skills to communicate with customers. Nowadays, this apprenticeship
360-400: The regulations regarding work safety, health protection, environmental protection, and ensuring quality and efficiency. They combine their uniqueness, innovation, and technical skills and use different materials and auxiliary materials. In some cases, they plan and organize their schedules in cooperation with their customers' various needs. They also collaborate with the team or the apprentice to
380-506: The term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele. Many prominent fashion designers , including Rose Bertin , Jeanne Lanvin , and Coco Chanel , began as milliners. The term "milliner" or "Milener" originally meant someone from Milan , in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In
400-750: Was a founder of the Toilet Goods Association Inc., Washington, D.C. , and served as its president in the 1960s, attending its annual meetings until 1987, a year before his death. With the expansion of department stores in the 1930s and 1940s, he created "in-store" displays and "in-store" merchandising staff, which evolved into the cosmetics counters of today. He was a founding member of the Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards , along with Grover Whalen, created to encourage and honor American talent and American fashion designers . The awards presentation ceremony initially took place at
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