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162-487: Cheongsam ( UK : / tʃ ( i ) ɒ ŋ ˈ s æ m / , US : / tʃ ɔː ŋ ˈ s ɑː m / ) or zansae , also known as the qipao ( / ˈ tʃ iː p aʊ / ) and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown , is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the qizhuang , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people . The cheongsam is most often seen as a longer, figure-fitting, one piece garment with

324-481: A changpao , which were designed for horseback riding, known as neitao , which was characterized by two pair of slits (one slit on each side, one slit on the back, and one slit on the front) which increased ease of movement when mounting and dismounting horses, a pianjin collar (a collar which curved like the alphabet《S》), and the sleeve cuffs known as matixiu ( Chinese : 马蹄袖 ; pinyin : mǎtíxiù ; lit. 'horse hoof cuff'). On

486-565: A West Germanic language that originated from the Anglo-Frisian dialects brought to Britain by Germanic settlers from various parts of what is now northwest Germany and the northern Netherlands. The resident population at this time was generally speaking Common Brittonic —the insular variety of Continental Celtic , which was influenced by the Roman occupation. This group of languages ( Welsh , Cornish , Cumbric ) cohabited alongside English into

648-532: A Beijing cheongsam is complex. The pankou fasteners can sometimes take several days to create, typically requiring twenty-six procedures of silk processing to be turning into silk strips which would be appropriate in the making of the fasteners of various patterns by artisans. The Shanghai-style Cheongsam originated in Shanghai and is a popular and dominant style. The Shanghai-style Cheongsam, especially, conveyed progressive messages of female body emancipation from

810-577: A Chinese emperor while at the same the tailoring of his robes would expressed his connection to the Manchu martial tradition of horse riding and archery. The new dress code was found in the Huangchao liqi tushi ( lit. 'Illustrations of Imperial Ritual Paraphernalia') commissioned by the Qianlong Emperor by the year 1759 as he was concerned that the customs of the Manchu people would be diluted by

972-460: A Halloween costume for young girls and women to wear, pretending to be a person of Asian descent as their costume. This created more conversation as more voices of minorities were heard, that this cultural dress is not appreciated when it is sold as a costume. However, as conversations of cultural appropriation increase and social awareness is spread through media platforms and social media, these racially insensitive costumes have since been left more in

1134-549: A century as Received Pronunciation (RP). However, due to language evolution and changing social trends, some linguists argue that RP is losing prestige or has been replaced by another accent, one that the linguist Geoff Lindsey for instance calls Standard Southern British English. Others suggest that more regionally-oriented standard accents are emerging in England. Even in Scotland and Northern Ireland, RP exerts little influence in

1296-634: A crime. The Manchu invaded the late Ming dynasty and overthrew the Ming dynasty to establish the Qing dynasty . The Manchu, Mongol bannermen and Han bannermen in Later Jin (1616–1636) territories engaged in the practice of shaving their foreheads since 1616. When the Manchu arrived in Beijing, they passed the tifayifu policy which required Han Chinese adult men (with the exceptions of specific group of people who were part of

1458-452: A dress code after 1636 stipulated that there was a direct connection between the adoption of Han Chinese's clothing, speech and sedentary lifestyle and the decline of the earlier Conquest dynasties ( Liao , Jin , and Yuan ). Manchu rulers also firmly rejected the adoption of Ming dynasty's court clothing and led to the executions of people who suggest adopting the Ming dynasty court dress. In 1637, Hong Taijji reminded his people that

1620-501: A greater movement, normally [əʊ], [əʉ] or [əɨ]. Dropping a morphological grammatical number , in collective nouns , is stronger in British English than North American English. This is to treat them as plural when once grammatically singular, a perceived natural number prevails, especially when applying to institutional nouns and groups of people. The noun 'police', for example, undergoes this treatment: Police are investigating

1782-820: A history of 4000 years. The development of qizhuang , including the precursor of the cheongsam , is closely related to the development and the changes of the Manchu Nationality (and their ancestors) throughout centuries, potentially including the Yilou people in the Warring States Period , the Sushen people in the Pre-Qin period, the Wuji people in the Wei and Jin period , the Mohe people from

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1944-406: A lesser class or social status and often discounted or considered of a low intelligence. Another contribution to the standardisation of British English was the introduction of the printing press to England in the mid-15th century. In doing so, William Caxton enabled a common language and spelling to be dispersed among the entirety of England at a much faster rate. Samuel Johnson's A Dictionary of

2106-408: A little matching fluffy pink trimmed purse, also an iconic Y2k accessory. This heightened attention of global fashions from Asia brought to Western pop culture's wardrobe, whilst being shone in starlight with social media and tabloids fawning over these 'new' styles, also caused insensitive representation of the fashions, also known as Cultural appropriation . The Cheongsam was also sold in stores as

2268-516: A long neck ribbon called longhua . The Manchu rulers also established new dress code regulations codifying attire worn by the imperial family, the Qing dynasty court and their court officials to distinguish the members of the ruling elites from the general population. The Board of Rites worked on the standardization of the Imperial clothing of the Qing dynasty. developing the sumptuary regulations throughout

2430-630: A long tradition rooted in riding horses, shooting arrows, and hunting; they saw their clothing as having been designed to be suitable for their lifestyles and practices. Their clothing was associated with martial vigour; Manchu clothing allowed greater ease of movement while the Han Chinese wide and long-sleeved robes limited movements. According to the Documents of History of Qing Dynasty by Yufu zhi : " Manchu people are good at riding and shooting. If we adopt Han people's clothes easily and gradually lose

2592-474: A matching jacket. The dresses were a fusion of Chinese tradition with modern styles. Cheongsam was commonly replaced by more comfortable clothing such as sweaters, jeans, business suits, and skirts. Due to its restrictive nature, it is now mainly worn as formal wear for important occasions. They are sometimes worn by politicians and film artists in Taiwan and Hong Kong. They are shown in some Chinese movies, such as in

2754-412: A metal hook and eye as the official uniform for their female students. The schools which use this standard include True Light Girls' College , St. Paul's Co-educational College , Heep Yunn School , St. Stephen's Girls' College , Ying Wa Girls' School , etc. These cheongsams are usually straight, with no waist shaping, and the cheongsam hem must reach mid-thigh. The cheongsam fit closely to the neck, and

2916-663: A mitigation policy advocated by Jin Zhijun, a former minister of the Ming dynasty who had surrendered in the Qing dynasty ) to shave their hair (i.e. adopting the Manchu's queue as a mark of their submission to Qing dynasty rule and dress in Manchu-style; the Han Chinese women were part of the exempted people and were therefore spared from the policy. Women in the Qing dynasty dressed accordingly to their husband's ranks. According to Chinese customs, Han Chinese men were supposed to comb their long hair and hide it under caps. The Qing imposed

3078-477: A new identity and people who referred to them as Jurchen would be executed. Hong Taiji had declared: Originally, the name for our people [gunrun] was Manju, Hada, Ula, Yehe, and Hoifa. Ignorant people call these "Jurchens". But the Jurchens are those of the same clan of Coo Mergen Sibe. What relation are they to us? Henceforth, everyone shall call [us] by our people's original name, Manju. Uttering "Jurchen" will be

3240-483: A padded outer jacket with medallion designs at the back and front jacket; soft shoes and socks, and a small hat while his wife wore a short apron, trousers, leggings, a padded silk skirt, a robe with gold motifs, silk shoes with soft soles and turned-up toes. These forms of Jurchen clothing were in the styles of the old Jurchen nobility; a style which may have been typical of the clothing of the Jin imperial elite at some point in

3402-416: A pair of high side slits above the knee-level. The length of the cheongsam can vary; it can be either long or short. It is more often seen with short sleeves; however, it can also be sleeveless. It is typically found with the mandarin collar and has asymmetric closure which runs from the central collar across the top area of the chest to the armhole curing down to the right side. In Chinese clothing culture,

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3564-498: A plain color, hemmed just above the knee, with a close-fitting wool suit jacket of the same color as the cheongsam. It is also common for these uniforms to only borrow certain elements, such as the standing collar and frog clasps, without adopting the whole design. In the 1950s, women in the workforce in Hong Kong started to wear more functional cheongsam made of wool, twill, and other materials. Most were tailor fitted and often came with

3726-550: A portion of the wedding day. It is common for many brides to have both a traditional white wedding dress and a cheongsam or a guaqun (another kind of wedding attire) to be worn during the tea ceremony . Cheongsam styles have also evolved to be more modern, from mermaid silhouettes to semi-traditional styles that feature a cheongsam top with softer details like lace and a looser skirt. Some Lolita dresses are styled like cheongsam. The dresses or jumper skirts are designed after traditional Chinese dresses. This style of Lolita fashion

3888-648: A process called T-glottalisation . National media, being based in London, have seen the glottal stop spreading more widely than it once was in word endings, not being heard as "no [ʔ] " and bottle of water being heard as "bo [ʔ] le of wa [ʔ] er". It is still stigmatised when used at the beginning and central positions, such as later , while often has all but regained /t/ . Other consonants subject to this usage in Cockney English are p , as in pa [ʔ] er and k as in ba [ʔ] er. In most areas of England and Wales, outside

4050-511: A regional accent or dialect. However, about 2% of Britons speak with an accent called Received Pronunciation (also called "the King's English", "Oxford English" and " BBC English" ), that is essentially region-less. It derives from a mixture of the Midlands and Southern dialects spoken in London in the early modern period. It is frequently used as a model for teaching English to foreign learners. In

4212-534: A result, Emperor Shizong also prohibited the Jurchens from adopting Han Chinese attire. Jurchen material culture dating about 1162 were found in the coffin of the Prince of Qi, Wanyan Yan , and his wife, where Wanyan Yan and his wife were dressed in layers of clothing in the duplicate style as those worn by Lady Wenji and the warriors who accompanied her in the painting Cai Wenji returning to Han . The Prince of Qi wore earrings, drawers, padded leggings, jerkins, boots,

4374-571: A standing collar, an asymmetric, left-over-right ( youren ) opening and two side slits, and embellished with Chinese frog fasteners on the lapel and the collar. It was developed in the 1920s and evolved in shapes and design over years. It was popular in China from the 1920s to 1960s, overlapping with the Republican era, and was popularized by Chinese socialites and high society women in Shanghai . Although

4536-400: A way of saving the nation. Also, the opening of several ports and ceding territories of China to Western powers imported some Western ideas to mainland China. Among all these Western thoughts, the idea of gender equality quickly gained its followers, among whom young female students became its prime advocates. British English British English (abbreviations: BrE , en-GB , and BE )

4698-489: Is a very narrow strip of fabric which is even narrower than the gun , and dang ( 宕 ) is a specific type of xiang technique which uses a narrow strip of fabric which is stitched on the dress. It is also typical for the qian and the gun to be used together on the same dress creating a double-edged look; this technique is known as yigun yiqian ( 一滚一嵌 ; 'one gun one qian'). Other double-edged piping technique include “two- gun -one- qian ” and

4860-725: Is also due to London-centric influences. Examples of R-dropping are car and sugar , where the R is not pronounced. British dialects differ on the extent of diphthongisation of long vowels, with southern varieties extensively turning them into diphthongs, and with northern dialects normally preserving many of them. As a comparison, North American varieties could be said to be in-between. Long vowels /iː/ and /uː/ are usually preserved, and in several areas also /oː/ and /eː/, as in go and say (unlike other varieties of English, that change them to [oʊ] and [eɪ] respectively). Some areas go as far as not diphthongising medieval /iː/ and /uː/, that give rise to modern /aɪ/ and /aʊ/; that is, for example, in

5022-415: Is also used as a style Traditional Chinese wedding dress among many others. For overseas Chinese , the cheongsam has often used as a form of emblematic culture. In the 1920s, the cheongsam was originally an embodiment of Chinese women's rebellion and a heroic gesture and a marker of Chinese feminism and Chinese women's emancipation . The Republican period is the golden age of the cheongsam. In exploring

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5184-404: Is based on British English, but has more influence from American English , often grouped together due to their close proximity. British English, for example, is the closest English to Indian English, but Indian English has extra vocabulary and some English words are assigned different meanings. Qizhuang The Manchu people have a history of about 400 years; however, their ancestors have

5346-603: Is called Qi Lolita . In the 2008 Summer Olympics , the medal bearers wore cheongsam. Similar attire was worn by female members of the Swedish team and of the Spanish team in the opening ceremony, with the national colors . For the 2012 Hong Kong Sevens tournament, sportswear brand Kukri Sports teamed up with Hong Kong lifestyle retail store G.O.D. to produce merchandising, which included traditional Chinese jackets and cheongsam-inspired ladies' polo shirts. In contemporary China,

5508-451: Is common for women to have new cheongsams tailored in preparation for the New Year. Cheongsams are also popular outfits for older women on formal occasions or family reunions. Upmarket fashion labels such as Shanghai Tang specialize in modern versions of the cheongsam as occasion wear. In Western weddings , Chinese brides or brides marrying into a Chinese family will often wear cheongsam for

5670-714: Is different from the early cheongsam. High-class courtesans and celebrities in the city welcomed the tight-fitting cheongsam. It was at this time the word cheongsam became well known in English. In Shanghainese , it was first known as zansae for 'long dress', rendered in Mandarin as chángshān and in Cantonese as chèuhngsāam . Then, the spoken Cantonese renditions of 長衫 was borrowed into English as "cheongsam". Trousers had completely fallen out of use, replaced by different types of hosiery . High-heeled shoes were popularized in

5832-719: Is included in style guides issued by various publishers including The Times newspaper, the Oxford University Press and the Cambridge University Press . The Oxford University Press guidelines were originally drafted as a single broadsheet page by Horace Henry Hart, and were at the time (1893) the first guide of their type in English; they were gradually expanded and eventually published, first as Hart's Rules , and in 2002 as part of The Oxford Manual of Style . Comparable in authority and stature to The Chicago Manual of Style for published American English ,

5994-609: Is the set of varieties of the English language native to the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland . More narrowly, it can refer specifically to the English language in England , or, more broadly, to the collective dialects of English throughout the British Isles taken as a single umbrella variety, for instance additionally incorporating Scottish English , Welsh English , and Northern Irish English . Tom McArthur in

6156-413: The chenyi had no side slits. Both the chenyi and changyi differed from the changfupao lacking the matixiu cuffs. Both the chenyi and changyi were also the changfu of the Manchu women; they also both became popular during the reign of Emperor Qianlong . It is also theorized that the cheongsam was derived from the Manchu women's chenyi although the chenyi shows

6318-530: The Chambers Dictionary , and the Collins Dictionary record actual usage rather than attempting to prescribe it. In addition, vocabulary and usage change with time; words are freely borrowed from other languages and other varieties of English, and neologisms are frequent. For historical reasons dating back to the rise of London in the ninth century, the form of language spoken in London and

6480-696: The Chinese Cultural Revolution (1966–1976), China pushed for egalitarian ideology and wearing cheongsam could result in punishment. For example, in 1963, when Chinese President Liu Shaoqi visited four neighbouring countries in South Asia, the first lady Wang Guangmei wore a cheongsam. She was later declared guilty in the Cultural Revolution for wearing it, due to its historical ties and symbolism. In other Chinese communities, such as Taiwan , Malaysia , Indonesia , Singapore and Hong Kong ,

6642-637: The East Midlands became standard English within the Court, and ultimately became the basis for generally accepted use in the law, government, literature and education in Britain. The standardisation of British English is thought to be from both dialect levelling and a thought of social superiority. Speaking in the Standard dialect created class distinctions; those who did not speak the standard English would be considered of

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6804-755: The Eight Banners system , wore different clothing from ordinary civilians. Thus, they became known as the Banner People ( Chinese : 旗人 ; pinyin : qírén ; lit. 'banner person'). The type of qizhuang that both men and women typically wore consisted of long robes, which can be referred to as the Manchu changpao and also categorized under the broad category of changpao ( Chinese : 长袍 ; Chinese : 長袍 ; lit. 'long robe') or changshan ( simplified Chinese : 长衫 ; traditional Chinese : 長衫 ; lit. 'long shirt'). Manchu men wore

6966-601: The Liao dynasty . Some remnants of the Bohai people became the subjects of the Jin after it overthrew the Liao dynasty; and by the mid-Jin dynasty, the Bohai people lost their distinct identity with assimilation. Soon after having founded the Jin dynasty, the Jurchen elites abandoned their sheng ways of life having been first influenced by Bohai and later on by gaining much of northern China and

7128-631: The Oxford Guide to World English acknowledges that British English shares "all the ambiguities and tensions [with] the word 'British' and as a result can be used and interpreted in two ways, more broadly or more narrowly, within a range of blurring and ambiguity". Variations exist in formal (both written and spoken) English in the United Kingdom. For example, the adjective wee is almost exclusively used in parts of Scotland, north-east England, Northern Ireland, Ireland, and occasionally Yorkshire , whereas

7290-484: The Royal Spanish Academy with Spanish. Standard British English differs notably in certain vocabulary, grammar, and pronunciation features from standard American English and certain other standard English varieties around the world. British and American spelling also differ in minor ways. The accent, or pronunciation system, of standard British English, based in southeastern England, has been known for over

7452-486: The Scots language or Scottish Gaelic ). Each group includes a range of dialects, some markedly different from others. The various British dialects also differ in the words that they have borrowed from other languages. Around the middle of the 15th century, there were points where within the 5 major dialects there were almost 500 ways to spell the word though . Following its last major survey of English Dialects (1949–1950),

7614-529: The Shanghainese term zansae . In Cantonese and Shanghainese, the term is used to describe a Chinese dress popularized in Shanghai . However, in Mandarin Chinese and other varieties of Chinese , chángshān ( 長衫 ) refers to an exclusively male garment , and the female version is known as the qípáo . In Hong Kong , where many Shanghainese tailors fled after the communist revolution of 1949 ,

7776-657: The Sui and Tang dynasties , and the Nuzhen (known as Jurchen ) in the Liao , Song , Yuan , and Ming dynasties . The Qing dynasty was a period when the Manchu's clothing development stage reached maturity. In the Qing dynasty, the clothing culture of the Manchu people contradicted and collided with the clothing culture of the Han Chinese due to their cultural differences and aesthetic concepts. Some Qing dynasty court dress preserved features and characteristics which are distinct from

7938-560: The University of Leeds has started work on a new project. In May 2007 the Arts and Humanities Research Council awarded a grant to Leeds to study British regional dialects. The team are sifting through a large collection of examples of regional slang words and phrases turned up by the "Voices project" run by the BBC , in which they invited the public to send in examples of English still spoken throughout

8100-601: The West Country and other near-by counties of the UK, the consonant R is not pronounced if not followed by a vowel, lengthening the preceding vowel instead. This phenomenon is known as non-rhoticity . In these same areas, a tendency exists to insert an R between a word ending in a vowel and a next word beginning with a vowel. This is called the intrusive R . It could be understood as a merger, in that words that once ended in an R and words that did not are no longer treated differently. This

8262-529: The "wide robes with broad sleeves" of the Ming dynasty were completely unsuitable to the Manchu lifestyle and expressed his worries that his descendants would forget the source of their greatness (i.e. Manchu conquests were founded on their horseback riding and their archery skills) and adopt Han Chinese customs. In the same year, Manchu noblemen and women were ordered by the early Qing court to wear freshwater Manchurian pearls in their headwear, including hats and hairpieces. After 1644, new revisions were made on

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8424-740: The 17th and early 18th centuries. The Board of Rites worked on ways to create distinctions between the clothing worn by the Emperors from other members of the political circle by limiting what people could wear and not wear; they also developed the imperial clothing by drawing on both the Manchu's and Han people's traditions. It is however only in the Qianlong period , that Imperial clothing became an amalgamation of Manchu-style tailoring with adopted Chinese designs. The Qing Emperor would therefore be dressed in Chinese symbols and wear colours which reflect his rule as

8586-471: The 1920s onwards, the cheongsam was quickly popularized by celebrities, socialites , and politicians in Shanghai . Former First Lady of China Madame Wellington Koo (Oei Hui-lan) was a prominent figure among them. Voted several times by Vogue into its lists of the world's best-dressed women, Madame Wellington Koo was much admired for her adaptations of the traditional Manchu fashion, which she wore with lace trousers and jade necklaces. Cheongsam dresses at

8748-461: The 1930s to 1940s; it also came to symbolize the idea of modernity in "pursuing health, fashion, and natural beauty". As a result, to deliberately create a more figure-hugging silhouette and to focus on showing off the natural curve of the female body, many elements of Western tailoring techniques can be found in the Shanghai-style cheongsam, including curved cutting, waist darts. This act of showing

8910-493: The 1940s, cheongsam came in a wide variety of fabrics with an equal variety of accessories. Cheongsams were worn by celebrities, societies, and students of prestigious missionary schools in the early 20th century. As a result, the cheongsam-style uniform was regarded as an icon of the wealthy class and was perceived as Bourgeois by the Communist China . From the 1950s to the 1970s, with the destroying Four Olds movements and

9072-552: The 1960s film The World of Suzie Wong , where actress Nancy Kwan made the cheongsam briefly fashionable in Western culture. They are also commonly seen in beauty contests, along with swimsuits . Today, cheongsam is only commonly worn day to day as a uniform by people like restaurant hostesses and serving staff at luxury hotels. Before World War II , it was customary for girl students who attended schools run by Western missionaries societies to wear cheongsam as their school uniforms; on

9234-603: The 21st century. RP, while long established as the standard English accent around the globe due to the spread of the British Empire , is distinct from the standard English pronunciation in some parts of the world; most prominently, RP notably contrasts with standard North American accents. In the 21st century, dictionaries like the Oxford English Dictionary , the Longman Dictionary of Contemporary English ,

9396-592: The Chinese was once again reinforced in 1129; however, it does not seem to have been strictly been enforced. In the 1150, Emperor Hailing established a sinicization policy. Under his reign, the Chinese in Honan were allowed to wear Chinese clothing. In the late 1160s, Emperor Shizong , the successor of Emperor Hailing, attempted to revive old Jurchen culture and to preserve the Jurchen's cultural identity. By his time, many Jurchens appeared to have adopted Chinese customs and had forgotten their own traditions. As

9558-816: The English Language (1755) was a large step in the English-language spelling reform , where the purification of language focused on standardising both speech and spelling. By the early 20th century, British authors had produced numerous books intended as guides to English grammar and usage, a few of which achieved sufficient acclaim to have remained in print for long periods and to have been reissued in new editions after some decades. These include, most notably of all, Fowler's Modern English Usage and The Complete Plain Words by Sir Ernest Gowers . Detailed guidance on many aspects of writing British English for publication

9720-644: The Germanic schwein ) is the animal in the field bred by the occupied Anglo-Saxons and pork (like the French porc ) is the animal at the table eaten by the occupying Normans. Another example is the Anglo-Saxon cu meaning cow, and the French bœuf meaning beef. Cohabitation with the Scandinavians resulted in a significant grammatical simplification and lexical enrichment of the Anglo-Frisian core of English;

9882-567: The Great wall (post 1644 additions to the Qing) to shave. It was a Han official from Shandong, Sun Zhixie and Li Ruolin who voluntarily shaved their foreheads and demanded Qing Prince Dorgon impose the queue hairstyle on the entire population which led to the queue order. Following their conquest of the Ming dynasty, the Manchu continued the wearing the Ming-style dragons robes but altered them by adding fur at

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10044-423: The Han Chinese had to follow the dress code of the Manchu. However, not every Han Chinese were required to wear Manchu clothing under the Tifayifu policy due to another mitigation policy adopted by the Qing court typically referred as the "ten rules that must be obeyed and ten that need not be obeyed", advocated by Jin Zhijun. Through a mitigation policy to the Tifayifu, Han Chinese women were allowed to keep

10206-439: The Han Chinese ways. The twelve ornaments were also reintroduced in 1759 and reappeared on the Qing dynasty court robes, first on the chaofu and later on the jifu. The Huangchao liqi tushi was therefore published and enforced by the year 1766; it contained a long section regulating the clothing worn by the emperors, princes, noblemen and their consorts, Manchu officials along with their wives and daughters, and also stipulated

10368-425: The Han Chinese who fastened a knotted button at the right neck opening near the shoulder line. Matixiu and slanted opening remained main features of Manchu dress until the collapse of the Qing dynasty in 1911. Their male traditional hairstyle is the queue , which is called bianzi in Chinese and soncoho in Manchu language. The Manchu elites perceived themselves and the emperor as being Manchu first with

10530-410: The Jin dynasty in 1170 following the Jin conquest of the Northern Song dynasty , he noted that the Han Chinese men had adopted Jurchen clothing while the women dressing style were still similar to the Hanfu worn in the Southern Song dynasty (although the style was outdated). After the death of Emperor Shizong, the policy of Jurchenization was abandoned and sinicization returned quickly. By 1191,

10692-442: The Jin, Liao and early Qing dynasties, the Jurchen retained their traditional customs of wearing feather caps and coats. The young Jurchen girls would wear a tube-shaped, five-colour beads which were engraved with ornamental design made of bird-neck bone. During the Five dynasties period, the Mohe people started to be referred as the Jurchen people ( Chinese : 女真 ; pinyin : Nǚzhēn ), they were referred as such by

10854-452: The Jurchens had conquered all and it would be therefore appropriate to unify the customs of the conquered people to make them conform to the Jurchen norms; therefore the Chinese men living in the conquered territories were ordered to shave their hair on the front of their head and to dress only in Jurchen-style attire under the threat of execution to display their submission to the Jurchens. This shaving hair order and adopting Jurchen clothing

11016-425: The Khitans who had founded the Liao dynasty. The Liao dynasty had subdued the Heishui Mohe who lived along the Heilongjiang river , the Songhua River , and in the Changbai Mountains . The Jurchens, therefore, emerged from the Mohe tribes who lived south and west of the Changbai mountains and north to the Bohai kingdom . In the early history of the Jurchen, the Jurchen liked to wear white clothing and shaved

11178-402: The Manchu changpao was required clothing for Chinese men of a certain class. What is now known as the Chinese changshan was developed by the Han Chinese during the Qing dynasty. Han Chinese started to wear the Qing dynasty Chinese changshan after the Manchu conquest; the Chinese changshan was a modified version of the changshan worn in the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD), the dynasty preceding

11340-457: The Manchu women. Manchu women's clothing was therefore influenced by the Han Chinese clothing culture. Manchu women also had natural feet and did not engage in foot binding as opposed to the Han Chinese women. In the Shang and Zhou dynasties , the earliest ancestors of the Manchu were the Sushen people who lived in the Songhua river basin in China. Their clothing culture was influenced by their productivity and geographical environment;

11502-402: The Ming dynasty conquest, the Manchu (and their predecessors ) had already been bestowed with dragon robes by the Ming court as diplomatic gifts and bribes. Thus, Manchu rulers ordered to that silk Ming dynasty dragon robes be trimmed with sable . During the time of Nurharci , the highest-ranking members of the Jurchen elites wore Manchurian pearls, sable, and lynx : the highest members of

11664-838: The Oxford Manual is a fairly exhaustive standard for published British English that writers can turn to in the absence of specific guidance from their publishing house. British English is the basis of, and very similar to, Commonwealth English . Commonwealth English is English as spoken and written in the Commonwealth countries , though often with some local variation. This includes English spoken in Australia , Malta , New Zealand , Nigeria , and South Africa . It also includes South Asian English used in South Asia, in English varieties in Southeast Asia , and in parts of Africa. Canadian English

11826-502: The Qing dynasty as Manchu clothing items. Manchu robes were initially collarless. The Manchu also adopted the right closure from the Han Chinese as they initially closed their robes on the left side. Under the dynastic laws of transition from Ming to Qing , all Han Chinese were forced to adopt the Manchu male queue hairstyle and adopt Manchu clothing under the Tifayifu ( 剃发易服 ; 剃髮易服 ; tìfàyìfú ) policy instead of being found wearing

11988-454: The Qing dynasty were also adopted from the Han Chinese's court clothing (especially from the Ming dynasty when the early Qing emperors adopted the Ming dynasty institutions and bureaucratic system ) but was refitted to show Manchu characteristics. Court clothing also adopted the Han Chinese adornment designs and decorations (e.g. the use of Chinese dragons , the Twelve symbols of sovereignty ), and

12150-412: The Qing dynasty, new types of clothing with elements and features which referred to the Manchu tradition also appeared, leading to changes in the cut of the formal and semi-formal attire worn by both the Manchu and the Han Chinese; for example, the Manchu robes closed to the right side of their body, 4-slits at the bottom of their garments (while the Han Chinese only wore two) which facilitated horse riding,

12312-425: The Qing dynasty. The Qing dynasty Chinese changshan was modeled after the Manchu's men's robe. It thus adopted certain Manchu elements, such as slimming their changshan, adopting the pianjin collar of the Manchu, and using buttons and loops at the neck and sides. The Chinese changshan differed from the Manchu men's neitao as it only had two slits on the sides, lacking the central front and back slits, and lacked

12474-409: The Shanghai fashion scene in the 1930s. Stockings and High-heeled shoes became an essential part of the cheongsam fashion set, which spawned new side slits designs reaching the hip line, intended to display the hosiery and heels. As Western fashions evolved, so did the cheongsam design, introducing high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a ball gown. By

12636-701: The South East, there are significantly different accents; the Cockney accent spoken by some East Londoners is strikingly different from Received Pronunciation (RP). Cockney rhyming slang can be (and was initially intended to be) difficult for outsiders to understand, although the extent of its use is often somewhat exaggerated. Londoners speak with a mixture of accents, depending on ethnicity, neighbourhood, class, age, upbringing, and sundry other factors. Estuary English has been gaining prominence in recent decades: it has some features of RP and some of Cockney. Immigrants to

12798-808: The Sushen (also known as Yilou ) lived north of the Changbai Mountain ; a Sushen man would stick feathers in a woman's hair and if the woman accepted, he would propose her to be his wife and marry her in a formal and respectful way; a custom which was passed down to the Yuan and Ming dynasties. In the 7th century Tang dynasty, the descendants of the ancient Sushen people were known as the Heishui Mohe ( Chinese : 黑水靺鞨 ; pinyin : Hēishuǐ mòhé ; Korean :  흑수말갈 ; Hanja :  黑水靺鞨 ; RR :  Heuksu Malgal ). Another descendants branch of

12960-572: The Sushen people lived on fishing and hunting; therefore, their clothing were made out of wild animal fur. According to Guo Pu 's commentary in Shanhaijing , the Sushen people resided north of the Liaodong Commandery lived in caves and only wore pig hides for clothing and in winter, they would smear grease on their bodies to protect themselves from the wind and cold. According to the Book of Jin ,

13122-648: The Sushen, Yilou, and Wuji people were the Sumo Mohe who established the Bohai kingdom; a kingdom which was made up of a large number of Mohe tribesmen in terms of population while the ruling class was composed mostly of Goguryeo people. Some Mohe people however managed to become part of the ruling elite of Bohai. Bohai eventually fell under the Khitans in 926 and the Goguryeo elites of Bohai became refugees in Goryeo leaving

13284-537: The UK in recent decades have brought many more languages to the country and particularly to London. Surveys started in 1979 by the Inner London Education Authority discovered over 125 languages being spoken domestically by the families of the inner city's schoolchildren. Notably Multicultural London English , a sociolect that emerged in the late 20th century spoken mainly by young, working-class people in multicultural parts of London . Since

13446-564: The United Kingdom , as well as within the countries themselves. The major divisions are normally classified as English English (or English as spoken in England (which is itself broadly grouped into Southern English , West Country , East and West Midlands English and Northern English ), Northern Irish English (in Northern Ireland), Welsh English (not to be confused with the Welsh language ), and Scottish English (not to be confused with

13608-458: The West Scottish accent. Phonological features characteristic of British English revolve around the pronunciation of the letter R, as well as the dental plosive T and some diphthongs specific to this dialect. Once regarded as a Cockney feature, in a number of forms of spoken British English, /t/ has become commonly realised as a glottal stop [ʔ] when it is in the intervocalic position, in

13770-458: The absence of slits. Throughout China's multicultural history, clothing has been shaped through an intermingling of primarily Han clothing styles , the Han Chinese being the dominant ethnicity, and the styles of various ethnic groups. Some examples include the standing collar of the cheongsam, which has been found in relics from the Ming dynasty , ruled by the Han Chinese, and was subsequently adopted in

13932-410: The adjective little is predominant elsewhere. Nevertheless, there is a meaningful degree of uniformity in written English within the United Kingdom, and this could be described by the term British English . The forms of spoken English, however, vary considerably more than in most other areas of the world where English is spoken and so a uniform concept of British English is more difficult to apply to

14094-481: The award of the grant in 2007, Leeds University stated: that they were "very pleased"—and indeed, "well chuffed"—at receiving their generous grant. He could, of course, have been "bostin" if he had come from the Black Country , or if he was a Scouser he would have been well "made up" over so many spondoolicks, because as a Geordie might say, £460,000 is a "canny load of chink". Most people in Britain speak with

14256-587: The cheongsam again. The cheongsam is gaining popularity in films, beauty pageants, and fashion shows in both China and other countries all over the world. In 1984, the cheongsam was specified as the formal attire of female diplomatic agents by the People's Republic of China . Some airlines in Mainland China and Taiwan, such as China Airlines and Hainan Airlines , have cheongsam uniforms for their women flight attendants and ground workers. These uniform cheongsams are in

14418-470: The cheongsam can decorated with a diversity of decorative motifs, which can be embroidered on the dress. The Beijing-style cheongsam originated in Beijing and is fairly traditional and conservative. It is typically handmade. It maintains the traditional straight and A-line silhouette, and often has embroidery and elaborate adornments. It is also characterized by its wide piping. The Beijing-style cheongsam expresses Chinese culture in its style. The production of

14580-468: The cheongsam is sometimes seen as traditional Chinese clothing , the cheongsam continues to evolve with times as it responds to the contemporary modern life. As English loanwords , both " cheongsam " and " qipao " describe the same type of body-hugging dress worn by Chinese women, and the words could be used interchangeably. The term cheongsam is a romanization of Cantonese word chèuhngsāam ( 長衫 ; 'long shirt/dress'), which comes from

14742-509: The cheongsam remained popular after the war. It became everyday wear in the British colony of Hong Kong in the 1950s, and leather clutch, high heels, and white gloves were common pairing accessories. However, the popularity ultimately declined in the 1970s, giving way for cheaper and mass-produced Western-style clothing. Since the 1980s, with the trend of reevaluation of Chinese traditional culture, people in mainland China started to pay attention to

14904-498: The city; their soldiers treated people who worked in the old government as captives and wanted to "wipe out everything": they banned Manchu women's hairstyles and the wearing of magua; they also prohibited temple fairs to follow the Chinese calendar . According to the Manchu tradition, the outerwear of both men and women includes a full-length robe with a jacket or a vest while short coats and trousers are worn as inner garments. During

15066-575: The clothing regulations: 1st rank princes had to wear 10 Manchurian pearls on their head; 8 pearls for the 2nd rank princes; 7 for the 3rd rank princes; the number of numbers were graded down until the lowest-ranking aristocrats who were only allow to wear one single pearl. In the early 1652, surcoats with insignia badges started to be worn to indicate the wearer's rank. They were also wearing three-quarter length surcoats, called duanzhao, entirely lined with fur on cold weather days. The duanzhao were considered luxurious, and they were eventually restricted to

15228-579: The clothing worn by the Manchu prior to their conquest of the Ming dynasty. The Qing dynasty officials also wore court dresses, which were variants of Manchu clothing at the court. Manchu clothing contrasted to the Hanfu , Han Chinese clothing, worn in the Ming dynasty ; "in contrast to the ample, flowing robes and slippers with upturned toes of the sedentary Ming, the Manchu wore the boots, trousers, and functional riding coats of nomadic horsemen". Manchu of both sexes wore trousers to protect their legs from

15390-412: The collar and cuff and sable at the skirts. In 1636, a proclamation was passed to guide the principles that the Manchu rulers had to avoid adopting the traditional clothing dress code of the Ming dynasty with the Manchu rulers reminding their people that adopting Han Chinese customs of the Ming dynasty would make their people become unfamiliar with shooting and horseback riding. Hong Taiji who developed

15552-416: The collar and the closure. There are four traditional piping techniques used in the making of the cheongsam: gun ( 滚 ; 'roll') which is a narrow strips of fabric roll around the raw edge of the garment and is the most commonly used nowadays, xiang ( 镶 ) which is broad edging typically found in Manchu clothing of the Qing dynasty and the early cheongsam and is now quite rare, qian ( 嵌 )

15714-613: The country. The BBC Voices project also collected hundreds of news articles about how the British speak English from swearing through to items on language schools. This information will also be collated and analysed by Johnson's team both for content and for where it was reported. "Perhaps the most remarkable finding in the Voices study is that the English language is as diverse as ever, despite our increased mobility and constant exposure to other accents and dialects through TV and radio". When discussing

15876-432: The designs being linked to Orientalism. In the 2011 movie One Day , Anne Hathaway wore a set of dark blue cheongsam as an evening dress. Many western stars such as Elizabeth Taylor , Grace Kelly , Nicole Kidman , Paris Hilton , Emma Watson , Deepika Padukone , and Celine Dion have also made public appearances wearing cheongsam. This dress style has also been specifically seen on more than one celebrity or figure in

16038-419: The dress code for Han Chinese men who became a mandarin and were serving the Manchu court, along with their wives and by the people who were waiting for an appointment. The stipulated clothing was divided into official and unofficial clothing and was then subdivided into formal, semiformal and informal categories: formal official clothing and semiformal clothing were worn at the court; informal official clothing

16200-455: The dynasty was first established, dress regulations were implemented as a way of expressing their identity as a people and creating social order. They used an administrative division called the Eight Banner system . Originally only the Manchu households were organized within this system, but over time naturalized Mongols and Han Chinese were incorporated. The Manchu, and anyone living under

16362-413: The early 2000's . This era is often described as a "global mash up", incorporating styles, silhouettes, prints, and accessories from subcultures around the world. And with this, the qipao made a frequent appearance on the runways and in the closets from the early 2000's. In the 1998, family comedy The Parent Trap , Lindsey Lohan's 11 year old character has a prominent scene wearing a pink qipao, paired with

16524-400: The early 1920s. Liangjie chuanyi -style clothing became one of the ethnic markers of the Han Chinese women's identity. On the other hand, Manchu women wore a one-piece long dress. However, they borrowed some elements from each other in the Qing dynasty, for example, wide robe sleeves which are typical features in the Han Chinese women's clothing was adopted in the informal daily outfits of

16686-436: The elites wore plaited sable jackets and robes of black sable, they wore Chinese-style racoon-dog or lynx fur robes; 2nd rank men wore robes or coats made of plain raccoon-dog lined with sable; and the men of the 3rd rank would wear dragon robes lined with sable in the Jurchen style. Lower noblemen were dressed in squirrel and weasel fur. The term "Manchu" was only adopted in 1635 by Hong Taiji in an attempt to create

16848-487: The female body was a physical expression of the changes in the identities of Chinese women and their rebellion against the idealized womanhood as indicated in the Confucian ideology. It also features high side slits and high collar. The collars can be lapel collars, water drop collars, and lotus leaf collars; the shape of the sleeves are also diverse. It also uses lighter materials and has less elaborate embroidery or adornments;

17010-460: The fineness of hemp cloth to indicate their wealth. In winter, fur coats were used by both the rich and the poor to keep themselves warm. The sheng ( Chinese : 生 ; lit. 'raw') Jurchens lived a relatively primitive and indigenous lifestyle based on hunting and herding similar to the lifestyle of their ancestors. The Jurchens founded the Jin dynasty in 1115 and eventually overthrew

17172-470: The form of a lute -shaped (or slant/curved) front, a Manchu innovation which was used, distinguished the Manchu robes from similar-looking clothing worn by the Mongol and by those worn by the Han Chinese. Manchu robes were fastened with loop and toggle buttons at the centre front of the neck area, right of the clavicle, under the right arm and along the right seam; this ways of closing their clothing differed from

17334-465: The former Song dynasty population which were large in numbers. The Jurchens who lived in the Jin dynasty quickly adopted Han Chinese culture, and by the late 12th century, Hanfu had become the standard form of clothing throughout the Jin society, in particular by the elites. After having conquered northern China, in 1126, a proclamation was issued by the Grand Marshal's office stipulating that

17496-456: The front of their head above the temples while the rest of their hair hung down to their shoulders. They could also shave their hair at the back of the head and bundled it with coloured silk; they also wore golden locks as their ornaments. The wealthy Jurchen used pearls and golds as ornaments. Jurchen women braided their hair and wound them into a hair bun without wearing a hat. The Jurchen wove hemp as they did not raise silkworms; they used

17658-416: The garment, back and front) to facilitate ease of movements when horseback riding; their sleeves were long and tight with their sleeves cuff ending in the shape of a horse's hoof, referred as matixiu ( Chinese : 马蹄袖 ; pinyin : mǎtíxiù ; lit. 'horse hoof cuff'), which was meant to protect its wearer's back of the hands from the wind. The Manchu's robes were overlapping in

17820-460: The growth of the Chinese economy, cheongsam has experienced a renewed popularity. Many Western designers have integrated elements of cheongsam into their fashion collections. French designer Pierre Cardin once said that cheongsam was his inspiration for many of his evening dress designs. In many films and movies, cheongsam is used to make a fashion statement. The varied interpretations of this ethnic dress brings in debates of cultural appropriation and

17982-413: The hides of animals they hunted. They also relied on trade to obtain the cloth required to make their horse-riding clothing; their cloth coats would then often be quilted or face with fur to increase protection against the cold. They wore surcoats, such as magua . After 1630, their magua often reflected its wearer's association to his banner through the colour of the garment or its trimmings. Prior to

18144-410: The horse's flanks and from the elements. Their boots had rigid soles to facilitate archery on horseback by allowing the riders to stand in the iron stirrups . The Manchu people also wore hoods which provided insulation and were essential to protect the wearer from the cold Northeast Asian winters. Manchu coats (and robes) were typically closed fitting and had 4-slits opening on 4 sides (2 sides of

18306-453: The idea of two different morphemes, one that causes the double negation, and one that is used for the point or the verb. Standard English in the United Kingdom, as in other English-speaking nations, is widely enforced in schools and by social norms for formal contexts but not by any singular authority; for instance, there is no institution equivalent to the Académie française with French or

18468-501: The indigenous Mohe people behind, who then became the subjects of the Liao dynasty . The Heishui Mohe had the customs of using wild boar tusks and pheasant tail feathers for their headdress. According to the Old Book of Tang , the New Book of Tang , and the Book of Sui , Mohe men wore clothing of leather and decorated their hats with pheasant feathers. The Mohe people, who lived in

18630-511: The last southern Midlands accent to use the broad "a" in words like bath or grass (i.e. barth or grarss ). Conversely crass or plastic use a slender "a". A few miles northwest in Leicestershire the slender "a" becomes more widespread generally. In the town of Corby , five miles (8 km) north, one can find Corbyite which, unlike the Kettering accent, is largely influenced by

18792-507: The late 12th century during the reign of Emperor Shizong , who emphasized the values of the old sheng Jurchen and attempted to revive Jurchen culture and values. The tribeswomen in the painting Cai Wenji returning to Han wear Jurchen attires consisting of leggings, skirts, aprons made of animal hide, jackets, scarves, hats made of fur or cloth; Wenji also wears Jurchen-style attire consisting of an ochre yellow jacket, silver yunjian (a symbol of high rank), boots, and fur hat with ear flaps;

18954-508: The later Norman occupation led to the grafting onto that Germanic core of a more elaborate layer of words from the Romance branch of the European languages. This Norman influence entered English largely through the courts and government. Thus, English developed into a "borrowing" language of great flexibility and with a huge vocabulary . Dialects and accents vary amongst the four countries of

19116-736: The left side with long flapped skirts. It is also recorded in the section Carriages and Costumes of the History of Jin Dynasty that Jurchen clothes were decorated with bears, deer, mountains and forest patterns. In 1127, the Jin dynasty occupied the Northern Song capital and the territories of the Northern Song and the Han Chinese became the majority population of the Jin dynasty; the Han Chinese were allowed to practice their own culture. The hair shaving and adopting Jurchen clothing imposition order on

19278-452: The mass internal migration to Northamptonshire in the 1940s and given its position between several major accent regions, it has become a source of various accent developments. In Northampton the older accent has been influenced by overspill Londoners. There is an accent known locally as the Kettering accent, which is a transitional accent between the East Midlands and East Anglian . It is

19440-439: The meaning of cheongsam has been revisited again. It now embodies an identity of being ethnic Chinese and thus is used for important diplomatic occasions. Since 2013, Peng Liyuan , the first lady of China , has worn cheongsam several times while on foreign visits with Chinese leader Xi Jinping . In November 2014, cheongsam was the official attire for the political leaders' wives in the 22nd APEC meeting in Beijing. With

19602-532: The members of the elites (nobles and officials of the top three ranks) and to the imperial guards; the type of fur and the lining colour was according to rank. During the Kangxi and Qianlong periods, the Manchu clothing system was continuously improved. During the Qianlong reign, some banner women transgressed the ban of wearing Hanfu and Han Chinese jewelries (specifically earrings). . The Qianlong Emperor reiterated

19764-458: The modern period, but due to their remoteness from the Germanic languages , influence on English was notably limited . However, the degree of influence remains debated, and it has recently been argued that its grammatical influence accounts for the substantial innovations noted between English and the other West Germanic languages. Initially, Old English was a diverse group of dialects, reflecting

19926-445: The neckline and embroidered patterns on the edges of the cuff. The dress is also embroidered with rich pattern motifs which tend to be floral, e.g. plum , orchid , bamboo , chrysanthemum , peonies , and roses . The fabrics used tend to be high-quality soft satin and plain crepe satin, etc. The Manchu are an ethnic minority that founded the last of China's imperial dynasties, the Qing dynasty , which lasted from 1644 to 1911. When

20088-480: The new Clothing Regulations of 1929 , which specified the cheongsam should be worn with trousers and be calf-length. However, even before the Clothing Regulations of 1929 , women had already stopped wearing ku trousers in favor of silk stockings . Chinese women held no respect to the rule, as it was seen as an attempt by the Republican government to control individual rights and woman's liberty. From

20250-581: The northern regions and eastern regions of Bohai, lived through hunting and fishing and wore clothing made out of fur (including sable, bear, and tiger) to protect against the cold with fur attached to the clothing. The ancestors of the Manchu, the Jurchen people , also fully reflected the characteristics of the Manchu people as nomadic people; their clothing were zuoren (closing to the left) and their sleeves had horse-hoof cuff. The Jurchen clothing also reflected some fusion of Han and Manchu culture. Throughout

20412-506: The original Cantonese meaning and applies to the dress worn by women only. The design of the cheongsam has evolved with time; and there are now a various styles of cheongsam. However, after decades of development, the design of cheongsam itself can be roughly categorized into the Beijing style, the Shanghai style, and the Hong Kong style. The cheongsam is typically a tight-fitting dress, with

20574-466: The other hand, some imperial Manchu women wore a changfu ( 常服 ), informal dress, which looked similar to the men's neitao known as the changfupao ( 常服袍 ). There were also two styles of changpao for the imperial consorts, known as chenyi and changyi , which became popular. The chenyi and the changyi differed in terms of structure: the changyi had two high side slits which allowed for greater ease of movements while

20736-402: The other hand, there were very few indigenous Chinese schools that were using the cheongsam as a school uniform. A few primary schools and some secondary schools in Hong Kong, especially older schools established by Christian missionaries, use a plain-rimmed sky-blue cotton and/or dark blue velvet (for winter) cheongsam with the metal school badge right under the stand-up collar to be closed with

20898-430: The overlap on the right side is known as youren . However, the cheongsam is not limited to the asymmetrical youren closure; there are various styles of cheongsam necklines, including a symmetrical opening in the chest area. The fasteners uses traditional Chinese knotting craftwork with the use of the pankou fastening and Chinese button knot . The cheongsam is typically edged with piping, especially at

21060-452: The overthrow of the Qing dynasty and the founding of the Republic of China , women began to partake in the education system. They wore an early form of the cheongsam, which quickly became the regular outfit of urban women in metropolitan cities like Beijing and Shanghai. Cheongsam of the late 1910s and early 1920s had relatively loose cutting with long, wide sleeves. One of the earliest cheongsams

21222-454: The past. The cheongsam became a national dress of the Republic of China , along with the aoqun , a traditional clothing attire of the Han Chinese women. It was eventually accepted by the People's Republic of China as a form of hanfu , thus becoming transnational and representative of a generic Chinese national identity rather than an ethnic or ancestral identity. The cheongsam can be worn by people of all ages and at any season. It

21384-563: The piping is very narrow. The Jiangnan-style cheongsam, also known as Su-style cheongsam, originated in the Jiangnan Water town . This style of cheongsam expresses the cultural characteristics of the water town in Jiangnan and also creates a fusion between Chinese calligraphy and Chinese painting , incorporating the hand-painting art of the Wumen School of Painting . It is characterized by

21546-473: The presence of the matixiu cuffs; the sleeves were also longer than the ones found in the neitao. For women, Manchu and Han systems of clothing coexisted. Throughout the Qing dynasty, Han civilian women could wear traditional Han clothing from the Ming dynasty. As a result, Ming dynasty style clothing was preserved to an extent in China until the Xinhai Revolution of 1911. In the late 1910s, after

21708-605: The reasons behind its prevalence in Republic of China , many scholars relate it to the women's liberation movements. After the feudal Qing dynasty was overturned, Chinese feminists called for women's liberation from traditional roles. They led several movements against the Neo-Confucian gender segregation, including the termination of foot binding for women, cutting off long hair, which was conventionally symbolized as women's "oriental" beauty, and encouraging women to wear men's one-piece clothing, Changshan or "changpao". "Changpao"

21870-578: The rulers of the Jin dynasty perceived their dynasties as being a legitimate Chinese dynasty which had preserved the traditions of the Tang and Northern Song dynasties. By the 13th century, the Jurchens of Jin considered the sheng Jurchens as outsiders, barbarians, and sometimes even as their enemies. Manchu (and Jurchen) clothing initially looked similar to the clothing worn during the early dynasties of conquest in its core features. The Jurchens and Manchu were originally hunters who made their clothing from

22032-410: The shape of the sleeves were changed from long and wide to narrow. Some sleeves had matixiu cuffs. Some court dress of the Qing dynasty preserved features and characteristics which are distinct the clothing worn by the Manchu prior to the conquest of the Ming dynasty. The Qing dynasty officials wore court dresses, which were also variants of Manchu clothing at the court. Some court clothing worn in

22194-627: The shaved head hairstyle on men of all ethnicities under its rule even before 1644 like upon the Nanai people in the 1630s who had to shave their foreheads. The men of certain ethnicities who came under Qing rule later like Salar people and Uyghur people already shaved all their heads bald so the shaving order was redundant. However, the shaving policy was not enforced in the Tusi autonomous chiefdoms in Southwestern China where many minorities lived. There

22356-515: The sides like the cheongsam, although the slits are deeper. A white cotton undershirt is often worn underneath the cheongsam. The cheongsam's length, styling, color, and sleeve length vary between schools. Many students feel it is an ordeal, yet it is a visible manifestation of the strict discipline that is the hallmark of prestigious secondary schools in Hong Kong, and many students and their parents like that. Some rebellious students express dissatisfaction with this tradition by wearing their uniform with

22518-485: The size of the cuff also became bigger, particularly on the formal festive coats worn by Manchu court women. By 1911, the topple of the last Qing dynasty Emperor Puyi by Sun Yat-sen and the demise of the Qing court led to the extinction of the Qing dynasty sartorial regulations. When the Republic of China was established, men all over China cut their queues and wore Western-style clothing. The Northern Expedition entered Beijing in 1928 and held disdain towards

22680-410: The skill of archery and horse riding and no longer worship martial arts, isn't that a pity that we will keep these weapons but have no reasons to practice them ". The Manchu elites saw these characteristics of the Manchu culture as very important features which needed to be preserved, fully emphasized and expressed in their rule. Therefore, in the early Qing dynasty, the Manchu rulers emphasized that

22842-401: The spoken language. Globally, countries that are former British colonies or members of the Commonwealth tend to follow British English, as is the case for English used by European Union institutions. In China, both British English and American English are taught. The UK government actively teaches and promotes English around the world and operates in over 200 countries . English is

23004-570: The stand-up collar intentionally left unhooked or hemmed above their knees. The Ying Wa and True Light Schools have sent questionnaires to their students about uniform reforms but have not altered their policies. However, Madam Lau Kam Lung Secondary School of Miu Fat Buddhist Monastery ended their cheongsam uniform in 1990 after receiving suggestions from its student union. Cheongsams are a popular outfit choice for festive seasons like Chinese New Year . In countries with significant Chinese populations, such as Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, it

23166-429: The stiff collar is hooked closed, despite the tropical humid and hot weather. Although the skirts have short slits, they are too narrow to allow students to walk in long strides. The seams above the slits often split when walking and are repeatedly sewn. Many schools also require underskirts to be worn with the cheongsam. The underskirt is a white cotton full slip, hemmed slightly shorter than the cheongsam, and has slits at

23328-496: The style and characteristics of the Ming dynasty's women clothing; allowing the coexistence of both Manchu and Han Chinese women's clothing. Manchu and Han Chinese women differed from each other in their dress style. Han Chinese women followed the long tradition of liangjie chuanyi ( Chinese : 两截穿衣 ; pinyin : liǎngjié chuānyī ), which refers to the wearing of two-part top-bottom garment style, when wearing their hanfu . This tradition persisted throughout centuries up to

23490-587: The theft of work tools worth £500 from a van at the Sprucefield park and ride car park in Lisburn. A football team can be treated likewise: Arsenal have lost just one of 20 home Premier League matches against Manchester City. This tendency can be observed in texts produced already in the 19th century. For example, Jane Austen , a British author, writes in Chapter 4 of Pride and Prejudice , published in 1813: All

23652-480: The thigh. Moreover, numerous distinct cheongsams designs emerged, with experimental changes on fastenings, pipings, collars, fur-lined cuffs, various length of sleeves, or simply sleeveless. Consumer culture rose as Western and Chinese merchants cooperated to move towards early capitalism. People eagerly sought a more modernized dress style and transformed the old cheongsam to suit new tastes. Newer forms featured slender and tight-fitting pencil cuts and deep necks, which

23814-454: The time had been decorously slit a few inches up the sides, but Madame Koo slashed hers to the knee, 'with lace pantelettes just visible to the ankle'. Unlike other Asian socialites, Madame Koo also insisted on local Chinese silks, which she thought were of superior quality. Starting from the early 1930s, there was a further transformation of the qipao as it became increasingly shorter, tighter, and body-hugging, with side slits that reached up to

23976-451: The traditional Hanfu , under the threat of death penalty. However, the order for ordinary non-Banner Han civilians to wear Manchu clothing was lifted, and only those Han who served as officials or scholars were required to wear them. Over time though, some Han civilian men voluntarily adopted the changshan . By the late Qing, not only officials and scholars, but a great many Han commoners wore Manchu-style male attire. However, until 1911,

24138-403: The traditional accent of Newcastle upon Tyne , 'out' will sound as 'oot', and in parts of Scotland and North-West England, 'my' will be pronounced as 'me'. Long vowels /iː/ and /uː/ are diphthongised to [ɪi] and [ʊu] respectively (or, more technically, [ʏʉ], with a raised tongue), so that ee and oo in feed and food are pronounced with a movement. The diphthong [oʊ] is also pronounced with

24300-403: The tribesmen wear typical sheng Jurchen clothing with the exception of a Han Chinese official. However, clothes worn by the Prince of Qi and his wife were not rough-woven wool, felt, and animal-skin that the sheng Jurchen wore; instead, they wore clothing made of fine Chinese silks, with some decorated with gold thread ; they also did not wear boots. According to Fan Chengda who visited

24462-571: The use of the Five colours symbolism (e.g. the colour blue was adopted as the Manchu's dynastic colour while red was avoided as it had been the dynastic colour of the Ming dynasty). Lifu (礼服, lit "ritual dress") were the ceremonial or formal court dress; they were characterized by matixiu cuffs and were the most conservative in preserving Manchu clothing features. Chaofu (朝服, lit. "court dress"), also known as "Audience robe", or "Robe of State", are official formal court dress (lifu). They are worn by

24624-733: The varied origins of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms of England. One of these dialects, Late West Saxon , eventually came to dominate. The original Old English was then influenced by two waves of invasion: the first was by speakers of the Scandinavian branch of the Germanic family, who settled in parts of Britain in the eighth and ninth centuries; the second was the Normans in the 11th century, who spoke Old Norman and ultimately developed an English variety of this called Anglo-Norman . These two invasions caused English to become "mixed" to some degree (though it

24786-413: The warning of abandoning Manchu clothing to his descendants noting that every northern dynasties that had adopted Chinese robes had hats had died out within one generation after they had abandoned their native dress; the Qianlong Emperor had cited Hong Taiji's earlier analogies. The Manchu women's chanyi and chenyi (informal robes) both became popular in the reign of the Qianlong Emperor and were worn with

24948-399: The word chèuhngsāam became gender-neutral, referring to both male and female garments. The word qipao ( keipo ), which literally means " Bannerman robe" and originally referred to a loose-fitting, trapezoidal-cut garment worn by both Manchu men and women, became a more formal term for the female chèuhngsāam . Usage of the term " cheongsam " in Western countries mostly followed

25110-560: The world are good and agreeable in your eyes. However, in Chapter 16, the grammatical number is used. The world is blinded by his fortune and consequence. Some dialects of British English use negative concords, also known as double negatives . Rather than changing a word or using a positive, words like nobody, not, nothing, and never would be used in the same sentence. While this does not occur in Standard English, it does occur in non-standard dialects. The double negation follows

25272-518: The “two- gun -two- qian ”. The dang can also be combined with the gun ; in this combination, the dang and the gun would be made of the same width and colour of fabric but they would run parallel to each other about two to five centimeters away from each other. Different materials can be used in the making of the cheongsam, such as wool , silk (including silk floss , damask , brocade , satin ), or silk-like materials. The cheongsam can also be unlined or interlined. The fabric of

25434-453: Was A-line with wide three-quarter sleeves and would fall just below the knee level. Under the Western influences of wearing shorter dresses in 1928, the length of the cheongsam became shorter. In 1929, the cheongsam was chosen by the Republic of China government to be one of the country's national dresses. With the designation of "national dress", the Republic of China government also promulgated

25596-515: Was however cancelled just a few months after it was stipulated as it was too difficult to enforce. In general, the Jin dynasty Jurchen clothing were similar to those worn by the Khitans in Liao, except for their preference for the colour white. Yuanlingpao with tight sleeves (closing to the left side, with pipa-shaped collar) were worn by men with leather boots and belts. Jurchen women liked to wear jackets (either dark red or dark purple) which closed to

25758-422: Was never a truly mixed language in the strictest sense of the word; mixed languages arise from the cohabitation of speakers of different languages, who develop a hybrid tongue for basic communication). The more idiomatic, concrete and descriptive English is, the more it is from Anglo-Saxon origins. The more intellectual and abstract English is, the more it contains Latin and French influences, e.g. swine (like

25920-491: Was one Han Chinese Tusi, the Chiefdom of Kokang populated by Han Kokang people . All members of the Eight Banners , regardless of their ethnic origins, were required to wear Manchu dress. Banner women were not allowed to adopt Chinese customs such as foot binding , wear single earrings, and wear Ming-style clothing with wide sleeves. Qing Manchu prince Dorgon initially canceled the order for all men in Ming territories south of

26082-486: Was traditionally taken as men's patent throughout the long history from Han dynasty (202 BC to 220) to Qing dynasty (1616–1911). During that time, Chinese Han female's clothing gradually developed into two pieces. Women were forbidden to wear robes as men did and instead had to wear tops and bottoms known as "Liang jie yi". After the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 (which overthrew the Qing dynasty), young Chinese people began to learn Western science and cultures in order to seek

26244-578: Was worn when travelling on official business, when attending court entertainment and on important domestic occasions; non-official formal clothing was worn on family occasions. Clothes were also regulated by the seasons. In the Jiaqing and Daoguang period, Manchu clothing evolved and more decorations were used to adorn women's clothing. By the mid-19th century, the matixiu ( Chinese : 马蹄袖 ; pinyin : mǎtíxiù ; lit. 'horse hoof cuff') sleeve cuffs of Manchu women's robe became wider and

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