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30-691: (Redirected from Camp IV ) Camp Four , Camp 4 , or Camp IV may refer to: Camp 4 (Yosemite) , in Yosemite National Park in California Camp Four (Fort Smith, Montana) , listed on the NRHP in Montana Camp Four, California, former name of Camphora, California Camp 4, Guantanamo , the camp within the Guantanamo Bay detention camps for

60-585: A degree in mechanical engineering from Stanford University , where he was a member of the Stanford Alpine Club. Frost began making first ascents in Yosemite in 1958. In 1960, he made the second ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, a route pioneered by Warren Harding in 1958. He climbed with Royal Robbins , Chuck Pratt and Joe Fitschen. In 1961, Frost and Yvon Chouinard visited

90-559: A desire to " leave no trace ". He articulated his climbing philosophy in an address to an international congress called "The Future of Mountain Sports", held in Innsbruck , Austria in September, 2002. He opposed what he believed to be excessive use of bolts by sport climbers , especially the altering of traditional climbing routes previously completed without such aids. He criticized such practices as

120-470: A drooping pick. Although Austrian climbers had improvised rigid crampons decades before by welding a bar across the hinge of conventional crampons, such devices were not commercially available until 1967. That year, Chouinard and Frost began marketing adjustable rigid crampons made of chrome-molybdenum steel . Frost and Chouinard invented the climbing protection device called the Hexentric . They applied for

150-522: A historic rockclimber's campsite in Yosemite Valley, arguing that the buildings would disturb the camp's natural setting. With the support of other activists, Frost initiated a lawsuit against the Park Service, which was joined by the American Alpine Club . As part of their attempt to stop the construction project, Frost and his attorney Dick Duane also filed an application to have Camp 4 listed on

180-447: A site per each reservation transaction. The camping fee is $ 10 per person per night. November to mid-April Camp 4 operates on a first-come, first-served basis, usually until sometime in April. The campground may fill early in the morning every day in spring and fall if weather is nice. The camping fee is $ 10 per night. In spring and fall, a line of those wishing to camp here typically forms at

210-566: A vertical environment." Of this climb, Chris Jones wrote, "For the first time in the history of the sport, Americans lead the world." In 1968, Frost visited the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Northwest Territories of Canada. From August 10 to August 13, along with Jim McCarthy and Sandy Bill, he made the first ascent of the vertical southeast face of the 2,200-foot granite pillar named

240-705: Is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Camp 4 (Yosemite) Camp 4 is a tent-only campground in Yosemite National Park in the United States. It became notable after World War II as "a birthplace of rock climbing’s modern age." It is located at an elevation of 4000 ft (1200 m) on the north side of the Yosemite Valley , close to base of granite cliffs near Yosemite Falls . Nearby boulders have long been used for bouldering , including

270-400: Is the kindest and gentlest and most generous person I have ever met, with never an ill word to say of anyone. He is also a man of courage and leadership, as witness his recent vanguard role in the effort to save Camp 4 in Yosemite. And he continues to possess the true spirit of climbing." While working on the first ascent of Kat Pinnacle with Chouinard in 1959, the pair designed and fabricated

300-539: The Columbia Boulder , which is known for the boulder problem called the Midnight Lightning , first done by Ron Kauk in 1978. It is easily recognizable by a painting of a white thunderbolt next to it. Physically unimpressive, Camp 4 nevertheless "served as a seedbed for the exchange of ideas, training and the development of new equipment that vastly improved the speed and safety of climbing" (LA Times) during

330-595: The Lotus Flower Tower , YDS V, 5.8, A2. In 1970, he participated in the 1970 Annapurna South Face expedition , reaching 25,000 feet. In 1979, he reached the summit of Ama Dablam on a filming expedition. In 1986, he returned to Kangtega and climbed a new route with Jeff Lowe . From 1997 to 2001, he returned to Yosemite big wall climbing with his son Ryan, repeating the Nose, the North America Wall and finally,

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360-643: The National Register of Historic Places . The park officials ultimately agreed to stop the development plans and to support the NRHP application, which was granted in 2003, based on the camp's "significant association with the growth and development of rock climbing in the Yosemite Valley during the 'golden years' of pioneer mountaineering". From 1971 to 1999, Camp 4 was officially known as Sunnyside Walk-in Campground , but has been since renamed Camp 4 in recognition of its historic status. During this era, however,

390-422: The National Register of Historic Places . The park officials ultimately agreed to stop the development plans and to support the NRHP application, which was granted in 2003, based on the camp's "significant association with the growth and development of rock climbing in the Yosemite Valley during the 'golden years' of pioneer mountaineering". In 2002, Royal Robbins offered the following description of Frost: "Tom

420-594: The Tetons , and made the first ascent of the northeast face of Disappointment Peak , its difficulty rated IV, 5.9, A3, according to the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). On September 12, 1961, Frost, along with Robbins, began the first ascent of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, named for pioneer Yosemite climber John Salathé . The pair spent two days establishing the first 600 feet of the route, and then retreated to

450-489: The Park Service proposed to build a three-story dormitory complex near Camp 4. With the support of other activists, rock climber and climbing equipment manufacturer Tom Frost initiated a lawsuit against the Park Service, arguing that the buildings would disturb the camp's natural setting. The suit was joined by the American Alpine Club . As part of their attempt to stop the construction project, Frost and his attorney Dick Duane also filed an application to have Camp 4 listed on

480-701: The Realized Ultimate Reality Piton or RURP, a tiny device that allowed them to finish the most difficult aid climb then completed in North America. This led to a lengthy partnership between Frost and Chouinard in climbing equipment companies such as the Great Pacific Iron Works and Chouinard, Ltd. Frost described his profession as "piton engineer". In the late 1960s, Frost and Chouinard turned their attention to ice climbing and its specialized equipment. They developed an alpine hammer with

510-690: The Salathé Wall on the 40th anniversary of his first ascent. Frost photographed many of his first ascents. Glen Denny, also a mountaineering photographer and author of the book Yosemite in the Sixties , wrote of Frost's photographic achievements: "Most of the climbing photos you see now are prearranged setups for the camera on much-traveled routes. The impressive thing about Frost is that his classic images were seen, and photographed, during major first ascents. In those awesome situations he led, cleaned, hauled, day after day and – somehow – used his camera with

540-499: The acuity of a Cartier-Bresson strolling about a piazza. Extremes of heat and cold, storm and high altitude, fear and exhaustion ... it didn't matter. He didn't seem to feel the pressure." Several of Frost's photos were published in Royal Robbins' book, Advanced Rockcraft , in 1973. Frost was also an ice climber, and contributed dozens of photographs to Yvon Chouinard's book Climbing Ice . Nine of his photographs appeared in

570-610: The book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America . Many of his photos appeared in Pat Ament's Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age . In 1979, he co-founded Chimera Photographic Lighting with Gary Regester. The company, based in Boulder, Colorado , manufactures lighting products for photography and filming. Frost was a longtime advocate of environmental ethics in climbing, using natural protection whenever possible, guided by respect for tradition and

600-467: The campground kiosk early in the morning. A total of 36 sites are available daily, each accommodating a maximum of six people (i.e., 216 spots total) at a cost of US$ 10 per person per night. Notably, the Park Service has imposed a 30-night camping limit within Yosemite National Park per calendar year; however, from 1 May to 15 September, the camping limit in Yosemite is 14 nights, with only seven of those nights allowed in Yosemite Valley or Wawona. Because of

630-579: The campsite was known colloquially to climbers as Camp 4. Throughout the period, the campground was the seasonal residence of many of Yosemite Valley's most prominent climbers. A 2012 rockfall hazard report concluded that several campsites on the northern side of Camp 4 needed to be relocated to achieve adequate safety for climbers. The 2014 documentary Valley Uprising features veterans of Camp 4 including Warren Harding (dubbed "the original bad boy of Camp 4" for his risk-taking, rebellious attitude, and alcohol consumption), and Beverly Johnson (who in 1973

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660-457: The first ascent of the North America Wall on El Capitan, YDS VI, 5.8, A5. Robbins described this climb in the 1965 American Alpine Journal : "The nine-day first ascent of the North America Wall in 1964 not only was the first one-push first ascent of an El Capitan climb, but a major breakthrough in other ways. We learned that our minds and bodies never stopped adjusting to the situation. We were able to live and work and sleep in comparative comfort in

690-657: The most compliant captives Camp IV, on Mount Everest, the final camp on the southern ascent route, on the South Col Topics referred to by the same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with the title Camp Four . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change the link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Camp_Four&oldid=608648286 " Categories : Disambiguation pages Place name disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description

720-539: The nearby parking lot. From the 1970s on, a new group of climbers led by Jim Bridwell and others based at Camp 4 (known as the "Stone Masters" from 1973 to 80) introduced a more athletic approach to climbing and popularized free climbing . In the 1990s, Camp 4 was the site of ongoing friction between climbers and the National Park Service . The conflict came to a head in 1997, when flooding in Yosemite Valley destroyed many employee housing units and

750-532: The popularity of the camp, the relatively small number of camp sites, and the lack of reservation availability, it can be difficult to be able to camp at this campground, except for the winter season, which is less busy. Tom Frost Frost grew up in Newport, California and was a sailing champion as a teenager, winning the Snipe National Championship in 1953 and 1954. In 1958, he graduated with

780-486: The result of a desire by some climbers for "instant gratification with little or no accountability". He opposed five attitudes as the culprits of modern climbing: "selfishness – entitlement – lack of self management – mis-education – and disrespect." Starting in 1997, Frost played a critical role in the fight to stop the National Park Service from constructing employee dormitories near Camp 4 ,

810-471: The time from after World War II until around 1970. Dozens of the most famous climbers in the world congregated at Camp 4 for years, learning from each other and trying out new ideas on Yosemite walls such as Half Dome and El Capitan . Yvon Chouinard (today known as founder of the outdoor clothing retailer Patagonia, Inc. ) prototyped new kinds of climbing equipment in Camp 4 using an old anvil, and sold them in

840-507: The trio reached the summit. It had taken them a total of 11 days and 36 pitches of vertical climbing to finish the route, which is rated YDS VI, 5.10, A3. In 1963, he visited the Himalaya with Edmund Hillary , making the first ascent of Kangtega , and helping with the construction of a school and a hospital for the Sherpas . From October 22–31, 1964, with Robbins, Pratt and Chouinard, Frost made

870-454: The valley floor, where they met up with Chuck Pratt, with whom they spent several more days pushing the route to 1,000 feet above the valley floor. Once again, the climbers descended and resupplied. On September 19, they resumed the climb, and after days of intense vertical aid climbing they reached the Roof, a 15-foot overhang. Using pitons, Frost led this key section of the climb, and on September 24,

900-428: Was part of the first all-female ascent of El Capitan). Camp 4 does not offer traditional reservations at any time during the year, and the process for attaining a camping site differs depending on the season. Mid-April through October From April 13 through October 27, 2024, campsites will be available only by reservation via Recreation.gov one week in advance of your arrival date. Up to 6 people can be registered for

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